Tangier – A Journey of Inspiration
Some destinations attract visitors for their museums; others, for their beaches or mountains, for the energy they give off or, simply, because they are fashionable. In the case of Tangier, the journey is inevitably related to the inspiration and yearnings for the past which it harbours like some muse of the arts. Myriad artists and scholars have passed through that city, located on the northern tip of Morocco, and have become spellbound by its charms.
The Light and Colour of Tangier
The first artist to be captivated by Tangier was the French painter, Eugène Delacroix. In 1832 he journeyed there as part of a diplomatic mission and ended up being seduced by its light and colour, as masterfully portrayed in such paintings as Jewish Wedding in Morocco.
The Spanish painter, Mariano Fortuny, who was familiar with Delacroix’s production, also went to Tangier in search of that magic, which infused a host of sketches and notes for his Orientalist works.
Henri Matisse reached Tangier in 1912. There, not only did he encounter “the landscapes of Morocco just as Delacroix had depicted them in his paintings”, as he himself stated, but he also discovered a new palette of colours for his own works. He took up lodgings in room 35 of the extant Grand Hotel Villa de France, where he painted such works as Window at Tangier.
Paul Bowles, Tangier and the Beat Generation
Tangier became a veritable beacon for writers, particularly in the 1950s and part of the 1960s. And, no wonder, as from 1923 to 1956 the city was a demilitarised zone under joint administration by various countries. This measure was implemented on account of its strategic position in the Strait of Gibraltar and the ensuing international disputes over its control. Known as the Tangier International Zone, it became a place of passage for many people – diplomats, adventurers, artists, spies and others. Functioning as “everyone’s city” or, if you will, “no man’s city”, it enjoyed an unusual status as a place of freedom and tolerance which would be difficult to find elsewhere.
One of the best known regulars in the city was the writer and composer, Paul Bowles, who arrived in Tangier in 1947 and was completely swept off his feet by its charms. It was there that he wrote his first novel, The Sheltering Sky, so masterfully ported to the cinema by the director, Bernardo Bertolucci. Then ensued the arrival of other creative figures, including Truman Capote, Tennessee Williams and Francis Bacon. And, he was also instrumental in spawning the Beat Generation – William Burroughs, Allen Ginsberg and Jack Kerouac, who succumbed to the allure of a place where they could give free rein to their imagination and – there’s no denying it – their vices, too.
Tangier Today
What remains of all that past now? While a lot of water has flowed under the bridge since then, and the city is in the throes of a process of renewal, the spots which resonate of those artists are still standing.
A visit to the Grand Socco provides a suitable introduction to the city. Its pleasant ambience and colourfulness are guaranteed, as is your likelihood of (literally) getting lost in its streets. You will eventually end up willy-nilly in the Petit Socco, a square in the heart of the Medina, packed with cafés and restaurants. Another square, the Place de France, is also a must-see, as it is the site of the Grand Café de Paris, with a history of its own. This is where our protagonists spent countless hours chatting and observing the passers-by.
The Fondation Lorin, housed in a synagogue, boasts a fine collection of photographs, documents and posters that give you a good idea of what Tangier was like in the first half of the 20th century. Then there is the Tangier American Legation Museum, a visit not to be missed by enthusiasts of Paul Bowles as it features a section dedicated to the writer which displays photos, portraits and Moroccan musical scores which he recorded himself.
The Villa Muniria – now reconditioned as the Hotel El-Muniria (1, Rue Magellan) – was the favourite lodgings of the Beat Generation. Tennessee Williams and the Rolling Stones themselves were counted among the guests that stayed there. It was there, too, in room number 9, that William Burroughs wrote his seminal work, Naked Lunch.
Another landmark of literary Tangier is the Librairie des Colonnes (54, Boulevard Pasteur). It was a meeting place for writers and artists, while nowadays it continues to host cultural activities.
Like the writers and artists of yesteryear, allow yourself to succumb to the charms of this inspiring city and plan your trip with Vueling!
Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
Images by Dieter Weinelt, Andrzej Wójtowicz
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Three Walks Through the Heart of Tenerife
The trails criss-crossing Tenerife, which vary in their difficulty rating, pass through a rich variety of environments, climates and habitats. Trekking along them enables you to discover the island’s secrets, observe its stark beauty and learn the lifestyle of its inhabitants, including its original settlers, the Guanches. They were the first to open up routes through the dense laurisilva, a sub-tropical cloud forest or highland forest, characterised by huge trees, calami and lianas with leaves resembling laurel. They also prepared pastureland near Mt Teide.
The most outstanding trail in Tenerife is, of course, the one that climbs up Mt. Teide, to an altitude of 3,717 metres. With its high difficulty rating, a special permit is required to attempt the summit.
Apart from the National Park, the other two exciting and spectacular settings for hiking trails are the Anaga and Teno rural parks. Following is a rundown of a low-difficulty trail in each of these Parks. They can be negotiated leisurely, while soaking up the scenery, with friends or family.
The Fortress – the Teide National Park
With its gentle gradient, this route is ideal for observing the park’s characteristic fauna and flora – the shrike and pimelia darkling beetle abound here. From the start and up until Cañada de los Guancheros, the route snakes across hills of pumice derived mainly from the eruptions of Montaña Blanca, where broom and golden chain are prevalent.
The Cañada de los Guancheros is a sedimentary plain featuring such plant varieties as broom, golden chain, rosalillo de cumbre (Pterocephalus lasiospermus), tonálica and Teide straw. On the final stretch, the trail winds around the foot of the crags of La Fortaleza with vegetation characteristic of steep slopes. Most striking are the moralito (Rhamnus integrifolia) and Canary Island cedar, the latter often interspersed with Canary Island pine at the foot of this mountain. La Fortaleza is the sole surviving vestige of the former Edificio Cañadas, located in the north of the Park. This reddish colossus was formed by highly viscous phonolithic lava which accumulated and solidified around the lava vent itself.
Anaga Rural Park – Cabezo del Tejo
The trail starts at the Anaga Forestry Park and proceeds towards Roque de Chinobre. From here, it becomes a pleasant stroll through the laurel forest, affording magnificent panoramic views of the Cordillera de Anaga range and the Roque de Chinobre. The route continues past the Roque Anambro as far as Cabezo del Tejo, with a vantage point set 800 metres above sea level. The return journey starts at this point, the forest trail winding past Hoya de los Toneleros, Ujuana and the Mirador de la Chamuscada. This hike takes about two hours. An alternative to this route is one running from the Anaga Rural Park, up to Chinobre and then descending directly to Las Chamuscadas – and its viewpoint of the same name – and back to the Forestry Park. This route takes around one hour.
Upper Teno, Lower Teno – Teno Rural Park
The Teno Rural Park was declared a protected woodland in 1994 under the Canary Islands Nature Reserve Act, aimed at preserving its ecological values and heritage and boosting the standard of living of local towns. Situated in the north west of Tenerife, it contains one of the island’s oldest geological areas, the Macizo Volcánico de Teno (Teno Volcanic Massif). With an area of 8,064 hectares, it is a treasure trove of biodiversity, with endemic species exclusive to the area and an unusual landscape, the outcome of natural processes and the endeavours of local inhabitants to harness the agricultural resources of this rugged terrain to the full.
The route we recommend starts in the Caserío de Teno Alto, at a spot known as Los Bailaderos. It runs along the present-day track leading to Las Cuevas, along the south side of El Vallado mountain. The importance of this initial stretch lies in the numerous examples of vernacular architecture along the way, in addition to the old brick kilns. Once you reach Las Cuevas, the path dips down to Las Casas along an uneven surface which occasionally lays bare the original cobblestone. The enclave of Las Casas is located at the foot of the slopes of El Barranco de Las Casas and the start of the Teno peninsula. Remains of traditional Canary Island architecture can be seen here. This leads straight to the Punta de Teno, the north-western tip of Tenerife island, set within the Teno Rural Park and affording some spectacular views of the peninsula, the coastline and the lighthouse.
This, the most pristine part of the island awaits you all year around. Discover it by getting hold of your tickets here.
Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
Images by Turismo de Tenerife
more infoA piece of paradise on earth
Just when we land, Tenerife welcomes us with an air of mystery and legend. Its volcanic landscape and its uncertain origins, which some authors place in Atlantis are just two of its many attractions.
And, legends aside, what is clear is that more than a lucky island, Tenerife is a piece of paradise on earth. It has two World Heritage Sites, a National Park, 42 protected areas and its weather makes it the island of eternal spring.
Whether you are visiting the island with friends, with family or with children, Tenerife is one of those destinations where you want to come back.
National Park Cañadas del Teide and Puerto de la Cruz
One of the must visit of Tenerife is the Teide National Park. Its breathtaking volcanic landscapes achieved that, in 2007 Tenerife were included as Well Natural in the World Heritage List of UNESCO. It is possible to visit the park with different excursions including the popular camel rise.
The caldera and volcano Teide - Pico Viejo are some of the world's most spectacular geological monuments. It also has a variety of volcanic cones and domes, lava flows, tors and caves that form a range of colors and shapes.
From there you can descend through spectacular Orotava Valley to the north coast, where is located the village of Puerto de la Cruz. This small town has many tourist attractions such as Loro Park, the Botanical Gardens, Lake Martiánez pool complex, beach Garden and Plaza del Charco.
San Cristobal de la Laguna
The historic center of La Laguna form was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO and it is a joy to walk through its streets.
Worth a stop on the way the Cathedral of San Cristóbal de La Laguna, Neo-Gothic and houses an interesting and rich artistic heritage. A short walk in its streets, we find among other facades of stately homes in Plaza de la Concepción, in front of the church of the same name. Turning left from the Place de la Concepcion reaches Herradores street, completely pedestrian, other interesting examples of Canarian architecture. But if the rotation is clockwise, the tour ends in San Agustin Street, in the houses of the Jesuits, Montañéz and Salazar. Lercaro Palace, the Museum of History of Tenerife, is another milestone in the street of St. Augustine and the church and hospital of Our Lady of Sorrows, St. Augustine's Church and the Institute of the Canary Islands.
A little further away is the beautiful Royal Shrine of the Holy Christ, next to the Plaza de San Francisco, better known as the Christ.
Hiking and nature trails
Masca
Masca is a picturesque village situated on the northwest tip of the island in the Teno Massif within the rural park of the same name. In Masca can find stunning scenery with deep ravines and cliffs ending in the Atlantic Ocean, surrounded by greenery and roads with impossible curves. Reputed to have been a haven for pirates.
Cruz del Carmen
If what you like is walking, one of the oldest trails on the island is what leads us to the Cross of Carmen.This promenade runs for environment typical vegetation, wax myrtle, heather and some species typical of the laurel, and reaches the Llano de Los Loros, from where you can enjoy panoramic views of the north coast wide.
Whales and dolphins watching
The southwest coast of Tenerife is a privileged place for whale watching in the wild, since there are whales and dolphin colonies living here all year. His presence is so near the coast, which has turned Tenerife in the first place in Europe in importance by the number of people doing whale watching in freedom.
We can find up to 21 different species in these waters, from the blue whale to the fearsome giant orca. There are two resident populations, finned pilot whale and bottlenose dolphin, which can be seen almost 80% of the days of the year, with a rate close to 100% sighting.
And of course, the beaches!
On an island as privileged as Tenerife, we must visit its incredible beaches, whether you like volcanic sand as soft golden sand.
For lovers of tranquility we propose Bollullo beach, in the town of La Orotava. It is a beautiful and secluded beach of volcanic sand which had the extraordinary clean waters and relaxed atmosphere. It's a little crowded beach, ideal for those who want to escape the crowded tourist venues and enjoy some quiet time. Access to this beach is on foot by a stepped path surrounded by banana trees. Pay attention to swim in this beach, because it lacks containment boom wave.
And for those who prefer to enjoy all the tourist amenities, our recommendation goes to the beach nightgown and Duque Beach.
The nightdress is part of a continuous succession of beaches which are occasionally separated by a line of stones on sand. The swimming conditions are always optimal as a breakwater protects the currents and waves.
El Duque is a beach of fine golden sand beach located in the southern part of the island, surrounded by a lovely seafront promenade that connects more than 8 beaches. In calm waters, and an extension of nearly 700 meters, the Playa del Duque delights its visitors, for they have all the services of an environment where quality is more distinctive.
You can also enjoy other spectacular beaches like El Medano, El Socorro, The Arena, La Pinta, La Tejita, Teresitas or Las Vistas.
By Nadia Polo
Picture Las Teresitas by Sergio Martín González | Picture San Cristóbal de la Laguna by Jens Steckert | Picture Acantilado de los Gigantes by Daniel Gaínza
A place well worth discovering! Check out our flights here.
more infoDestination: Gambia. The Gateway to Africa
By Clara Arnedo
I’ve just got back from Gambia and some of the sights still linger in my mind: the rainbow that appears onTanji beach every day at sunset, when fishing boats laden with fish come back to the port, and the whole town takes part in collecting and selling the fresh fish. These are just a few of the memories that this small but perfect country leaves with you, to help you get an idea of what Africa is really like. Now Vueling makes it easier for us to travel to the Gambia, with a new route connecting Barcelona and Banjul, the capital of the country.
The journey starts in the capital, Banjul, a city that is small and pleasant. And so is the country, with a population of 1.6 million. Banjul is a relatively safe and peaceful city, where it is worth exploring the crowded colourful markets selling all kinds of wares. The most outstanding is Albert Market, a large typically African market mainly selling fruit, vegetables and fish. When sellers and customers see us they are reluctant at first and quickly avoid our cameras. But after a while they gradually become more open and available. All they need is a little time.
Another attraction in the city is Arch 22, in honour of the president, the bodyguard of the former president, who took his position on 22 June 1994. Since then he has been the great protagonist of the Gambia: we see Yahya Jammeh everywhere – on posters stuck on walls and lampposts in every village and every town.
But the Gambia is especially a country with a coast that opens out to the Atlantic Ocean; a wedge-shaped country that cuts into Senegal and is divided in two by the river that gives the country its name – the Gambia.
First we go to the coast to discover the long, fine sand beaches of Banjul. There are hotels on the seafront, affording a spectacular view of the ocean. But the most memorable fishing scene has got to be Tanji, where you can find a flurry of colours and life every evening on the shore when the fish is brought in. It seems like chaos but there is actually an internal organisation and hierarchy, and laws that enable the same spectacle to happen every day at sunset. The men are strong and muscular and are in charge of carrying tons of fish from the boats to the beach, balancing the baskets on their heads. Once they are on the shore, the women collect the treasure to wash it and prepare it to be sold… young men run further to look for spots to set up and sell the fish. The children often follow, running fast at their heels, hoping to catch a bit of fish that might fall on the way. This makeshift fish market on the sand is the tip of the iceberg of this small country that is bursting with life. In the morning, in that same spot, a colourful fruit and vegetable market materialises, dominated by women buying and selling food. One of these women is Ida Cham Njai, a beautiful and energetic chef who offers the unique experience of accompanying her to shop in the market, and then spending a pleasant day cooking local produce with her at her home. The gastronomy and local produce are the best ways to learn a bit more about this pleasant destination.
A British redoubt in colonial times, it is now one of the smallest countries in West Africa. It also has one of the highest birth rates. The Gambia is full of children, and mothers who wrap them to their hips: it is a beautiful and typical scene of the country. The rest of the country is made up of the jungle, nature and many animals: monkeys, birds and even hippos. The further upstream you go, the wilder nature is, and the more rural the population is… it is a wild adventure to go up the river towards the town of Georgetown, because there are not many places for accommodation. Tourism is not widely developed in the Gambia, and that is part of its charm. In any case, you don’t have to travel very far from Banjul to discover the wild. NearSerrekunda, the largest and busiest city in the country, we find Bijilo National Park, or Monkey Park, which includes easy paths to walk around. In this area you can also visit a crocodile pond, and you can even touch one of the crocodiles! This is the other side of the Gambia, with its river and mangrove swamps; the more authentic Gambia, one of the least developed countries on earth, with a life expectancy of 54 years and a literacy rate of 40%.
But this is not the end of the journey, and the Gambia, despite being a small country, still has a few surprises in store for us. Can you imagine remote African villages invaded by Street Art and graffiti? Well, this is what you can find in the Gambia. Specifically in Bafuloto and Makumbaya – two names that are hard to remember, two villages with small and simple houses, streets made of sand and dirt, where children play under the sun. And on the walls of these huts is where the Wide Open Walls movement found one of its favourite canvases. Pictures that depict nature, with animals from the area and other motifs that fill these places with colour.
A great way of discovering the Gambia from different perspective. Another way of penetrating Africa through this small gateway.
By Clara Arnedo
Makes you want to go, right? Do it! Check out our prices here!
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