In truth, Belgrade has not been fairly treated by history, as the peoples, cultures and religions that passed through the city left more of a trail of destruction than a positive, lasting historical footprint. Surprisingly, however, Belgraders have chosen to preserve the vestiges of those civilisations that occupied and also ravaged the city.

Former Singidunum

A Celtic tribe first settled Singidun (meaning “round fort”) in the 3rd century BC, on the site of the extant Kalemegdan Fortress. Subsequently, the Roman army arrived and changed the name to Singidunum, which endured until the city became Beograd in the year 878.

Remains of the fort built by the Celtic tribes, as well as some dating from the Roman period, can still be seen in Kalemegdan Park, where the original garrison was sited. Sections of an aqueduct, cisterns and some stretches of the wall stand side by side with an unusual mixture of buildings from different periods, such as those from the Ottoman and the Austro-Hungarian periods, which we will be looking at in a moment.

No fewer than 18 Roman emperors were born in Serbia; no wonder, then, that the Roman legacy still lingers in parts of the country. Notable examples are Viminacium – present-day Kostolac – or Felix Romuliana, situated near the archaeological site of Gamzigrad, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2007.

In Belgrade, the two museums you cannot fail to visit if you want to research the country’s Roman heritage are the Belgrade City Museum and the National Museum of Serbia.

Ottoman Belgrade

Traces of the Ottoman period can be seen in the 15th-century stone paving of Skadarlija, Belgrade’s best known pedestrian precinct in the Bohemian Quarter. Here, things get into full swing at nightfall when the numerous restaurants, taverns and cafés are frequented by Serbians and foreigners alike, eager to taste the cuisine hot off the fire. Notable dishes include sarma (vine leaves stuffed with meat and vegetables), kebab (meat on the skewer) and baklava (the famous confectionery of honey-rolled nuts), liable to transport diners back to Belgrade’s Ottoman past.

Of the 273 mosques that once existed in the city, only the Bajrakli Džamija mosque, dating from 1575, is still standing. Having survived the passage of time, partial destruction and other attacks, it was rebuilt and is now open to Belgrade’s Muslim community.

Several Ottoman vestiges can also be seen in the aforementioned fort in Kalemegdan Park, including the Sahat Tower, with its striking clock, and the Tomb of Silahdar Damat Ali Pasha, housing the remains of the Grand Vizier of the Ottoman Empire and “Conqueror of Morea” (the Byzantine name for the Peloponnese), who ruled from 1713 to 1716.

Belgrade also features a very interesting museum for those wishing to find out more about the city’s Ottoman legacy. This is the Galeriji Fresaka (Gallery of Frescoes), with its exhibition of over 1,300 frescoes, which are actually copies of icons found on Serbian monuments dating from the 11th to the 15th century, some of which are Byzantine in style. Some of the icons have been destroyed in their original location, while others have fallen into disrepair.

Austro-Hungarian Belgrade

Perhaps the entire heritage of Belgrade’s Austro-Hungarian past, which lasted from 1867 to 1919, can be summed up in one word – Zemun. This is the name of an unusual district which did not become part of Serbia until the outbreak of the First World War and which breathes an atmosphere unlike that of any other district in the city.

But the whole ensemble of eclectic art dating from the period 1860 to the late 1920s, in addition to neo-Renaissance historicist architecture, abounds along the pedestrian precinct of Kneza Mihaila, Belgrade’s major thoroughfare and shopping area. Stretching for one kilometre, it features striking mansions from the late 1870s, as well as bookshops, fashion stores, cafés and souvenir stalls where you can soak up the vibrant everyday activity of Belgrade.

Another lively spot in the city, and also a meeting point for Belgraders and foreigners, is Trg Republike (Republic Square), with its emblematic “Horse”. Executed in 1882, this equestrian statue of Mihajlo Obrenović III (Prince Michael) commemorates his expulsion of the Turks. Behind it stands the aforementioned National Museum of Serbia, due to open to the public again in April 2016 as it is currently closed for renovation. 

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Text and photographs by Ana Isabel Escriche (Planeta Dunia)

Exploring the Bretagne means reviving the exciting medieval European history, delving into its cultural roots, into its traditions and legends. You will discover stunning landscapes: its beaches, cliffs or amazing medieval towns like Vitre or Fougères, and you will get the most out of the beneficial effects for the body of Atlantic waters. Bretons are fond of spas and some of the best spas to relax and get purified are located in Dinard and La Baute .

The French Brittany is a large peninsula. Its 1,200 kilometers of coastline and its landscapes and gastronomy prove its close relationship to land and sea, as well as its ancestral traditions, dating back to its Celtic past, actually closer to Ireland or Wales that France itself.

The beauty of the breton coastline is prolonged for its islands, to the North Brehart or Ouessant and the South Sein, Glenan, Groix and Belle-Ile to, paradise of wild beauty with its protected bays and their headlights, and a history and personality. Its ports were strategic points for trade as for military defense and even lands of banishment.

Rennes, capital of Brittany, although it is located at the gates of the Normandy region and is a prominent place of the architectural heritage and witness of the history of the region. Around the two Royal squares, Parliament and the City Council, and their features wood and Renaissance mansions half-timbered houses, centuries of history are drawn.

30 Kilometres from Rennes lies the lush forest of Oaks and beeches Brocelandia, domain of myths and legends Celtic. It is here where are located many episodes of the novels of the round table, as the search King Arthur ordered to find the Holy Grail and was also the place where lived the fairy Viviana, Knight Lancelot and Merlin the Mage, friend and Advisor of the young Arthur, which say caught there for love.

By the magic Broceliande forest, you will go over hidden trails that will take you by the Bridge of the Secret, the village of Paimpont and its beautiful Abbey and castles of Brocéliande and the passage of Holly.

To the north, in the estuary of the Rance river one comes to Dinan, with its charming old town, and one of the best preserved medieval cities. For its walled enclosure you will discover fascinating monuments as the basilica of Saint-Sauveur or the tower of l’Horlage.

From here the Coast Emerald spreads, with its Green shores dotted with villages, which passes from the walled city of Sain-Malo to the Coast of Pink Granite, which owes its name to its peculiar rock formations of pink shades. And between them, countless sites to explore: the rocky cliffs of Cap Fréhel or Rochefort-en-Terre with its low houses with slate roofs and the charm of the old villages.

Another attraction of the route by the Breton coast is to follow the Way of the headlights, which starts in Brest and ends in Portsall, to take a walk through the half-hundred lighthouses that dot its coastline.

Great painters such as Paul Gauguin and Maurice Denis have immortalized like nobody the Brittany. You can rediscover them in at the Museum of Fine Arts in Pont-Aven. Pont-Aven owes its reputation to the painters’ school that Gauguin led in this fishing village, arrived from Paris and willing to follow his teachings.This population keeps on preserving the nostalgic mills that were happening along the river, which so many times these artists recreated, and its fascination for the painting, but also you will be able to enjoy its famous confectioner’s.

Finishing up the Arch of the Brittany coast to the South, is Carnac, town which houses more than 3,000 prehistoric remains of between 5,000 and 2,000 BC years TIt is the oldest archeological site of Europe, divided into four major areas: Le Menec, Kermario, Kerlescan and Le Petit Menec. You can also complete your visit in the Museum of the prehistory of Carnac..

Eating in Britain

The dilated Breton coastline, bathed by the waters of the Atlantic, mark the gastronomy of the region, which has succeeded like no other, preserve its gastronomic specialities. Fish and seafood take the menus of the restaurants as anywhere else. One of the best oysters in the world, the Belon, and of course, mussels collected here.

In general, all the shellfish and seafood as the spider crab, lobsters or crabs, is collected in its cold waters. This also translates into delicious fish soups. Although if there is a fish by the that the Bretons have a special fervour, that is the cod, which was prepared in all ways imaginable.

But, apart from the fish, in Britain prepares excellent cheeses, as the curé nantais, and butter, cider and delicious pastries. Their crepes, croissants or Sabres will delight the greediest.

Imagen de Pymouss

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The place to be seen today, the new glamour zone of the East End, is found between the Spitalfields, theSunday Up Market andBrick Lane, markets housing loads of vintage shops, arts and crafts, jewellery and little stalls selling all types of food where you can wander around at will.

Brick Lane

Its name comes from the street that used to be the home of the brick and tile factory. The southern half is home to part of the Bangladeshi community, with a large number of touristy curry houses, food and material shops which is why the street is commonly known as Banglatown, while the northern half is bursting with unique and original shops.

Don’t miss the famous bagels from Beigel Bake at Number 159Brick Lane, open 23 hours a day.

The Carpenters Arms

The pub, The Carpenter’s Arms, situated in Cheshire Street, has a romantic story associated with it. The Kray twins, Reggie and Ronnie, the most famous gangsters of London’s East End, bought it in 1967 and gave it to their mother as a present.

The tale came to an end with their life imprisonment sentence. On 11 October 2000 Reggie Kray’s funeral took place all along Cheshire Street.
They say that such was his black sense of humour that they built the bar out of coffin lids.
Today, The Carpenter’s Arms is a welcoming pub with more than fifty brands of beer to choose from and a wonderful clientele that keep the story of the Kray brothers alive.
The current owners, Eric and Nigel, managed to rescue the pub at the beginning of the century from being turned into housing. They found the place completely ruined – apart from the famous bar made of coffin lids.

The Carpenters Bar
www.carpentersarmsfreehouse.com
73 Cheshire Street

Beyond Retro

Cheshire Street is dotted with a wide variety of vintageshops and young designers, but at Number 110 you will find one of the biggest, a huge second-hand clothing warehouse where you can lose yourself picking through an enormous hoard of boots, t-shirts, dresses as well as all types of gadgets.

Beyond Retro
110-112 Cheshire St.
www.beyondretro.com/

Vibe Bar

The Vibe Bar shares its entrance with theOld Truman Brewery, that in past times used to be home to London’s largest brewery. From its pleasant terrace you climb the steps to 4 large areas in which they hold exhibitions, reggae and experimental music concerts and DJ sessions. The inside of the bar is decorated with graffiti art, big sofas and a few antique gaming machines. In September is hosts the Brick Lane Music Festival.

Vibe Bar
91-95 Brick Lane
www.vibe-bar.co.uk

Dray Walk

In this alleyway calledDray Walk we find the Cafe 1001 with its rustic wooden terrace alongside one of the three Rough Trade shops in London where you can find the best selection of vinyl and CDs as well as café and sofas where you can relax and connect to internet.

Al Volo

Opposite one of the entrances toSunday Up Market, is the Al Volo , where you can enjoy excellent Italian food.

Al Volo
Hanbury Street
www.alvolo.co.uk

Sunday Up Market

Sunday Up Market is the coolest market of the moment.

During the week it’s just a car park, but on Sundays it’s full of people, with more than 200 stalls over two floors selling clothes, jewellery, food and music.

Sunday Up Market
www.sundayupmarket.co.uk

The Golden Heart

Strategically placed on the intersection of Commercial Street and Hanbury Street and just oppositeSpitalfieldsMarket, The Golden Heart is the perfect place from which to watch everything going on in the area and to have a rest.

However it’s fair to say that the regular locals have gradually gone to be replaced with groups of young people visiting the neighbourhood.

The Golden Heart
84 Commercial Street

Spitalfield Market

Located in a beautiful Victorian building, Spitalfields Market started trading in 1682 and is open every day from 11:00 to 15:00 and on Sundays from 09:30 to 17:30.

It used to be the preferred location for lovers of vintage clothing, a place where urban fashion can be picked up for a good price, but lately it has become a tourist attraction with shops and restaurants. The young designers’ stalls have moved to the Old Truman Brewery in the Sunday Up Market.

In any case, even if you don’t plan on buying anything, it’s still worth the visit.

Ten Bells

The Ten Bells is the living history of the famous Jack the Ripper. The pub is on the corner of Commercial Street and Fournier Street in Spitalfields. Although the façade has changed, the interior has remained much the same as it did when it used to be frequented by Jack the Ripper. On one of the walls of the pub a beautiful mosaic has been conserved: “Spitalfields in the Olden Time” that is definitely worth a visit. We’d also like to point out that the pub has a wall displaying a list of the victims, as well as press cuttings, of the notorious Ripper. ..

Ten Bells
84 Commercial Street

Christ Church Spitalfields

A pretty Anglican church is situated close to the famous Spitalfields Market. It was designed by Nicholas Hawksmoor, a pupil of the Royal architectChristopher Wren, who reconstructed the English capital after the Great Fire of London.

Christ Church Spitalfields
84 Commercial St
www.christchurchspitalfields.org

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From sea to mountains, Almeria´s cuisine keeps the essence of every little town in the Apujarras, Sierra de los Filabres, Tabernas or Velez. Antique recipes still remains in these little towns. These popular recipes are cooked with the best ingredients collected from their lands and their rich coasts.
Its cuisine is very rich and comprises from amigas, fried potatoes, garlic soup, all kinds of seafood, operettas and paellas, grilled vegetables or the countless tapas route in the capital.

Gurullos and Nijar fish

Gurullos is a tough handmade dough from Muslim heritage made with durum wheat flour, water and salt.In the seaside towns of Almeria, the Gurullos are usually cooked with octopus and cuttlefish.
Let´s taste the best typical dishes from Almeria, made with high quality ingredients in Restaurante La Ola, located in the Isleta del Moro (Little Muslim Island), inside the Cabo de Gata National Park.

There you will enjoy magnificent views of the Mediterranean Sea while waiter serves you fresh fish, sailor casserols, red prawns and paella. Every single ingredient is really fresh, no doubt about it! Because in Restaurante La Ola they have their own fishing boat and the go fishing every day.

Zarzuela in Roquetas de Mar

Roquetas is a very picturesque place that retains the truly essence of the sailor towns and its tradictional fish auction. The supply of fruits and vegetables and also seafood guarantees the quality of its cuisine. To make a good Zarzuela we need to mix fish and seafood like crayfishes, prawns, mussels, clams, lobsters, squids and rockfishes.
Come to any of the port side restaurants, like Restaurante Nido or El Chiringuito de Paco and taste the best fish and zarzuelas.

Sailor stews and red prawns from Garrucha

Garrucha is a sailor village where you can find a hugh variety of good quality fresh fish and seafood. Here, recipes are quite simple but anything else is needed when primary ingredients can bring you to heaven. Red prawn from Garrucha is bigger and has a dipper red color than usual prawn and it is one of the best Mediterranean seafood.
You can find these simple dishes in El Almejero, located in Explanada del Puerto of Garrucha. Ideal to eat the best red mullet and grilled prawns with amazing sea views.

Garden products and fish from El Ejido

Greenhouses vegetables from el Ejido are exported every year to almost the wide world. There is nothing better than taste the Mediterranean healthy recipes in El Ejido, made with the best garden vegetables and excellent seafood.
The best place to enjoy it is La Costa (Avenida Bulevar de El Ejido, 48), an excellent restaurant with one Michelin star where its chef Jose Álvarez provides it with a sofisticated atmosphere.

Almond cake or oil cake from Velez

In Velez, 35 kilometers away from the capital, some varieties of dry fruits like grapes, olives and almonds are grown. This is the reason why its cuisine uses these products in particular.The most typical dessert from Velez is the oil cake, a recipe known for 50 years!

In Almeria

Patatas a lo pobre (poor style potatoes) at El Quinto Toro

Although at first view it seems a simple dish, it is not so easy to get a good dish of poor style potatoes. The recipe is simple with sliced potatoes, onion, oil, white wine and salt and you can eat a very good one at El Quinto Toro, Juan Leal 6 of Almeria.

Migas and some other tapas at Casa Puga

Find a place in La Puga (Jovellanos 7 )and choose from a wide variety of tapas: fried fish, meats, cheese, smoked fish, scrambled garlic, prawns and snails. Maybe La Puga is a little bit more expensive than other establishments in the same area but it is one of the most recognized good tapas place in the city. And don´t forget to ask for somemigas(crumbs)!

The Ajoblanco at La Encina

The garlic soup is a very common snack in Almeria. A thick cream with almonds, garlic, olive oil and vinegar, served with toast spread or as an accompanient to some dishes. Almeria is a land of excellent almonds, so it is used in many recipes.
If you are walking around the city center, taste it at La Encina (Marin, 6), and taste also theis cold raf tomatoe soup, hake pie or marinated sardines.

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