Belgrade In Three Itineraries
In truth, Belgrade has not been fairly treated by history, as the peoples, cultures and religions that passed through the city left more of a trail of destruction than a positive, lasting historical footprint. Surprisingly, however, Belgraders have chosen to preserve the vestiges of those civilisations that occupied and also ravaged the city.
Former Singidunum
A Celtic tribe first settled Singidun (meaning “round fort”) in the 3rd century BC, on the site of the extant Kalemegdan Fortress. Subsequently, the Roman army arrived and changed the name to Singidunum, which endured until the city became Beograd in the year 878.
Remains of the fort built by the Celtic tribes, as well as some dating from the Roman period, can still be seen in Kalemegdan Park, where the original garrison was sited. Sections of an aqueduct, cisterns and some stretches of the wall stand side by side with an unusual mixture of buildings from different periods, such as those from the Ottoman and the Austro-Hungarian periods, which we will be looking at in a moment.
No fewer than 18 Roman emperors were born in Serbia; no wonder, then, that the Roman legacy still lingers in parts of the country. Notable examples are Viminacium – present-day Kostolac – or Felix Romuliana, situated near the archaeological site of Gamzigrad, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2007.
In Belgrade, the two museums you cannot fail to visit if you want to research the country’s Roman heritage are the Belgrade City Museum and the National Museum of Serbia.
Ottoman Belgrade
Traces of the Ottoman period can be seen in the 15th-century stone paving of Skadarlija, Belgrade’s best known pedestrian precinct in the Bohemian Quarter. Here, things get into full swing at nightfall when the numerous restaurants, taverns and cafés are frequented by Serbians and foreigners alike, eager to taste the cuisine hot off the fire. Notable dishes include sarma (vine leaves stuffed with meat and vegetables), kebab (meat on the skewer) and baklava (the famous confectionery of honey-rolled nuts), liable to transport diners back to Belgrade’s Ottoman past.
Of the 273 mosques that once existed in the city, only the Bajrakli Džamija mosque, dating from 1575, is still standing. Having survived the passage of time, partial destruction and other attacks, it was rebuilt and is now open to Belgrade’s Muslim community.
Several Ottoman vestiges can also be seen in the aforementioned fort in Kalemegdan Park, including the Sahat Tower, with its striking clock, and the Tomb of Silahdar Damat Ali Pasha, housing the remains of the Grand Vizier of the Ottoman Empire and “Conqueror of Morea” (the Byzantine name for the Peloponnese), who ruled from 1713 to 1716.
Belgrade also features a very interesting museum for those wishing to find out more about the city’s Ottoman legacy. This is the Galeriji Fresaka (Gallery of Frescoes), with its exhibition of over 1,300 frescoes, which are actually copies of icons found on Serbian monuments dating from the 11th to the 15th century, some of which are Byzantine in style. Some of the icons have been destroyed in their original location, while others have fallen into disrepair.
Austro-Hungarian Belgrade
Perhaps the entire heritage of Belgrade’s Austro-Hungarian past, which lasted from 1867 to 1919, can be summed up in one word – Zemun. This is the name of an unusual district which did not become part of Serbia until the outbreak of the First World War and which breathes an atmosphere unlike that of any other district in the city.
But the whole ensemble of eclectic art dating from the period 1860 to the late 1920s, in addition to neo-Renaissance historicist architecture, abounds along the pedestrian precinct of Kneza Mihaila, Belgrade’s major thoroughfare and shopping area. Stretching for one kilometre, it features striking mansions from the late 1870s, as well as bookshops, fashion stores, cafés and souvenir stalls where you can soak up the vibrant everyday activity of Belgrade.
Another lively spot in the city, and also a meeting point for Belgraders and foreigners, is Trg Republike (Republic Square), with its emblematic “Horse”. Executed in 1882, this equestrian statue of Mihajlo Obrenović III (Prince Michael) commemorates his expulsion of the Turks. Behind it stands the aforementioned National Museum of Serbia, due to open to the public again in April 2016 as it is currently closed for renovation.
I bet you hadn’t thought of a city like this! Why wait to discover it for yourself? Check out our flights here.
Text and photographs by Ana Isabel Escriche (Planeta Dunia)
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Tangier – A Journey of Inspiration
Some destinations attract visitors for their museums; others, for their beaches or mountains, for the energy they give off or, simply, because they are fashionable. In the case of Tangier, the journey is inevitably related to the inspiration and yearnings for the past which it harbours like some muse of the arts. Myriad artists and scholars have passed through that city, located on the northern tip of Morocco, and have become spellbound by its charms.
The Light and Colour of Tangier
The first artist to be captivated by Tangier was the French painter, Eugène Delacroix. In 1832 he journeyed there as part of a diplomatic mission and ended up being seduced by its light and colour, as masterfully portrayed in such paintings as Jewish Wedding in Morocco.
The Spanish painter, Mariano Fortuny, who was familiar with Delacroix’s production, also went to Tangier in search of that magic, which infused a host of sketches and notes for his Orientalist works.
Henri Matisse reached Tangier in 1912. There, not only did he encounter “the landscapes of Morocco just as Delacroix had depicted them in his paintings”, as he himself stated, but he also discovered a new palette of colours for his own works. He took up lodgings in room 35 of the extant Grand Hotel Villa de France, where he painted such works as Window at Tangier.
Paul Bowles, Tangier and the Beat Generation
Tangier became a veritable beacon for writers, particularly in the 1950s and part of the 1960s. And, no wonder, as from 1923 to 1956 the city was a demilitarised zone under joint administration by various countries. This measure was implemented on account of its strategic position in the Strait of Gibraltar and the ensuing international disputes over its control. Known as the Tangier International Zone, it became a place of passage for many people – diplomats, adventurers, artists, spies and others. Functioning as “everyone’s city” or, if you will, “no man’s city”, it enjoyed an unusual status as a place of freedom and tolerance which would be difficult to find elsewhere.
One of the best known regulars in the city was the writer and composer, Paul Bowles, who arrived in Tangier in 1947 and was completely swept off his feet by its charms. It was there that he wrote his first novel, The Sheltering Sky, so masterfully ported to the cinema by the director, Bernardo Bertolucci. Then ensued the arrival of other creative figures, including Truman Capote, Tennessee Williams and Francis Bacon. And, he was also instrumental in spawning the Beat Generation – William Burroughs, Allen Ginsberg and Jack Kerouac, who succumbed to the allure of a place where they could give free rein to their imagination and – there’s no denying it – their vices, too.
Tangier Today
What remains of all that past now? While a lot of water has flowed under the bridge since then, and the city is in the throes of a process of renewal, the spots which resonate of those artists are still standing.
A visit to the Grand Socco provides a suitable introduction to the city. Its pleasant ambience and colourfulness are guaranteed, as is your likelihood of (literally) getting lost in its streets. You will eventually end up willy-nilly in the Petit Socco, a square in the heart of the Medina, packed with cafés and restaurants. Another square, the Place de France, is also a must-see, as it is the site of the Grand Café de Paris, with a history of its own. This is where our protagonists spent countless hours chatting and observing the passers-by.
The Fondation Lorin, housed in a synagogue, boasts a fine collection of photographs, documents and posters that give you a good idea of what Tangier was like in the first half of the 20th century. Then there is the Tangier American Legation Museum, a visit not to be missed by enthusiasts of Paul Bowles as it features a section dedicated to the writer which displays photos, portraits and Moroccan musical scores which he recorded himself.
The Villa Muniria – now reconditioned as the Hotel El-Muniria (1, Rue Magellan) – was the favourite lodgings of the Beat Generation. Tennessee Williams and the Rolling Stones themselves were counted among the guests that stayed there. It was there, too, in room number 9, that William Burroughs wrote his seminal work, Naked Lunch.
Another landmark of literary Tangier is the Librairie des Colonnes (54, Boulevard Pasteur). It was a meeting place for writers and artists, while nowadays it continues to host cultural activities.
Like the writers and artists of yesteryear, allow yourself to succumb to the charms of this inspiring city and plan your trip with Vueling!
Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
Images by Dieter Weinelt, Andrzej Wójtowicz
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Fine Design In Palma
Majorca is one of the pearls of the Mediterranean. Over the years, the island has drawn from its traditional resources to reinvent itself in line with current trends. No wonder, then, that it is one of Spain’s design meccas. This is where the Camper footwear brand was born, and the painter, Miquel Barceló, too. It was also the destination of such artists as Joan Miró and the pianist, Frédéric Chopin. This thirst for creation and good taste has led its capital, Palma, to build up a bountiful network of shops, restaurants, bars and hotels which can wreak havoc on the unsuspecting design lover. From the old town to the grass-roots quarter of Santa Catalina, from the classical to the most genuine vintage, one things emerges clearly – Palma is design.
1. In Progress
In the heart of Santa Catalina lies the store run by Sonia and Jesús, two enfants terribles of vintage who specialise in artefacts from the fifties to the eighties. Here you will find anything from chairs and lamps to Pontesa crockery, Arcoroc glasses and old Palma shop counters. With special emphasis on “Made in Spain”, on many a Saturday they organise aperitif concerts and exhibitions by local artists.
2. Rialto Living
As soon as you set foot in Rialto Living you will feel as though you’re in the chic venues of Capri or the Hamptons. This “living store” is housed in an old palace in the city’s historic centre and its offerings range from furniture and art to books, fashion and a restaurant. Old and modern mingle in the ambience, with that Mediterranean flourish we are so fond of.
3. Frida Watson
Seen from the shop window, items in the Frida Watson collection confirm love at first sight. This store in Santa Catalina features pure Scandinavian design from the fifties to the seventies in harmony with Vitra clocks, Murano glass and retro lamps that resemble flying saucers.
4. Hotel Cort
The work of interior designer, Lázaro Rosa-Violán, Hotel Cort is one of the most elegant in town. Perfect lighting, hydraulic flooring and island colours compound a blend of elements that can make your head swim. Further, the sophisticated hotel restaurant is the ideal spot for a quiet dinner with your partner.
5. La Pecera
Few places can reconcile mid-20th-century European furniture with vintage and contemporary Majorcan items so deftly. La Pecera is a small but alluring store where you can find lamps, designer furniture, decorative items and craftwork. C/ Victoria, 4
6. Ariela Schönberg Vintage Collective
German furniture is one of Ariela Schönberg’s fortes. This, one of the latest shops to open in Santa Catalina, features designer artefacts and anonymous furniture from the whole continent.
7. Posada Terra Santa
Despite its rather solemn name, the Posada Terra Santa (Holy Land Inn) is one of the loveliest hotels in Palma. Housed in a 16th-century palace, its 26 rooms display a blend of history and modernity with comfort. Additionally, their swimming pool, with views of the Cathedral, is the perfect spot for chilling out and letting yourself get drawn in by the city’s charm.
8. Sa Costa
Sa Costa is a classic in Palma. Their antiques show wonderfully next to vintage formica, plastic and iron. As soon as you enter the shop, you realise you could spend hours admiring the dozens of furniture pieces and other items that people this store in the city centre. Costa de Sa Pols, 7A
9. Patrón Lunares
The classic essence of the Mediterranean arrives in Palma, skippered by the Patrón Lunares tavern and their chef, Javier Bonet. A pretty venue decorated with hydraulic floor tiles, iron columns and retro furniture where you can eat good seafood and enjoy the island’s flavours.
10. Galería Veintinueve
Now in their recently opened new premises, Galería Veintinueve continues to be a hit, with their dual facet of contemporary art exhibition centre and venue for large 20th-century pieces by such designers as Jacobsen, Scarpa and Colombo. The store and patio are spectacular and the collection of art and furniture will leave you impressed.
11. Viveca
Antiquities, ceramics, textiles and lots of vintage – this is the essence of Viveca Palma, where Íñigo Güell and Ingrid Iturralde have unveiled a store featuring 18th-century Swedish furniture and iconic 20th-century furniture. A real pleasure.
12. Louis 21
Upcoming artists jostle to exhibit their creations in Louis 21, one of the leading springboards for promoting the careers of emerging artists. With another gallery in Madrid, their philosophy is to elicit interaction with the public and the collaborative urge.
Come in search of fine design in the Balearic capital – check out your Vueling here.
Text by Aleix Palau for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by Aleix Palau
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Historia y vino en Saint Émilion
Named after a monk –Émilion, a sort of Robin Hood – this locality lies some 38 kilometres from Bordeaux, from which it can be reached by either car or train in about half an hour. By strolling through its steep, cobbled streets, the visitor becomes immersed in history… and wine. The aroma of Bacchus wafts through the whole town, located among vineyards planted with the Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon grape varieties.
You can soak up most of its charms in a single day, but I assure you that you will want to stay there forever. Much of Saint-Émilion’s history lies buried in the earth, conjuring up a past full of Masonic societies and secret grottos swathed in an air of mystery, adding to the appeal of this World Heritage Site town.
Subterranean Worlds
A must-visit sight is the Monolithic Church, the largest of its kind in Europe. Carved out of a cliff, you cannot possibly imagine its sheer size from the outside. This architectural jewel also houses catacombs where the ancient nobles were buried. Guided tours are available in various languages and tickets can be purchased at the tourist office. They are well worth getting. The guided tour in Spanish always starts at 12 a.m.
If you are an enthusiast of underground worlds, you can also visit a number of wine cellars, notably the Chateau Cardinal Villemaurine, Clos des Menuts and Maison Galhaud, to name but a few. In all, there are over 100 châteaux where you can taste all kinds of wines with the DO Saint Émilion. A word of warning – during the tastings, remember to spit out the wine from time to time, to avoid it going to your head and having to regret something you did the day before.
Strolling Through the Town
The area surrounding the town offers picture postcard scenery and romantic walks. Strolling up and down the steep streets holding hands with your partner makes for what feels like an obstacle race over uneven cobblestones, as if it were a metaphor of love.
Your stroll will lead you to the Gate de La Cadène, an archway separating the upper part of the town, home to the wealthy classes, from the lower part, inhabited by the peasants.
In the Middle Ages, Saint-Émilion was defended by a fortified enclosure, the wall stretching some 1,500 metres. Access to the town was via six gates – the Porte Bourgeoise in the north, Porte Brunet in the east, Chanoines and Saint-Martin in the west, and Porte Bouqueyre or Bouquière and Sainte-Marie in the south. The Porte Brunet, which leads into the vineyards, is the only one which has been preserved virtually intact. It is well worth coming to this side of the town where all you can hear is the sound of bird song.
Another monument visible from most of the town is the King’s Tower. You can visit the top for €1.5 and soak up the views, which leave you speechless.
Macaroons For Afternoon Tea
Before Ladurée reinvented the formula, making them double and in various colours and flavours, macarons had long existed as a spongy almond biscuit with a great tradition in towns such as Saint-Émilion. In the 17th century, the Ursuline nuns in this locality were tasked with harvesting the almonds and using them in their pastries, which is how macaroons were created. They are still famous throughout the region. You can purchase them in two shops with a long-standing tradition in the town – Matthieu Mouliérac and Fabrique des Véritables Macarons. If you are really sweet-toothed and still require a further injection of sugar, try their canelés, small pastries typical of Bordeaux. The recipe was also developed by a monastic order, this time in the 16th century. Absolutely delicieux!
Brasseries, Foie Gras and Cheese For Dinner
There are numerous restaurants offering traditional cuisine, as well as brasseries, the ideal venues for having canard (duck) and entrecôte. If you fancy eating typical French cheeses, some foie gras and even some oysters while tasting a selection of wines, the restaurant L’Envers du Décor is the ideal spot. They have a small patio for warm summer evenings and their wine list is as long as a Cervantes novel. Let the waiter recommend what to order and abandon yourself to the aromas of Dionysius.
Discover the joie de vivre, book your Vueling to Bordeaux and have a good time!
Text by Miriam Arcera for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Photos by Antonio Caballero
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