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Down A Fine Danish Beer

Copenhagen is the capital of Denmark and its largest city, with a population of almost two million inhabitants, including its metropolitan area. Not bad for a northern city with long, harsh winters. However, the high population density is actually the result of brilliant economic planning. Copenhagen has managed to become the main trade hub between continental Europe and the whole of Scandinavia. Its healthy economy has led to such sectors as the leisure market expanding inordinately in the last few years. This has in turn prompted an upsurge in the number of restaurants, discos, bars and countless beer houses. We are going to recommend the ones we consider most inviting, but we will also be focusing on Carlsberg, the mother of all beers in Denmark. The label is a veritable institution for the Danes. And, we urge you to visit the Carlsberg brewery, one of the oldest in the world.

Possibly the Best Beer in the World

Before venturing into the vaporous world of Danish beer houses, let’s take a stroll through the crown jewel of that hops culture. I am referring to the Carlsberg Brewery, located in Copenhagen’s Vesterbro district, just 2 km from the Central Station. Buses no. 8A and 26 have stops very near the entrance gate. There is also a free shuttle bus which leaves every hour (from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.) from Vesterbrogade, 6.

The Carlsberg Brewery is sited in one of Copenhagen’s most vibrant districts. On arrival, the first thing that drew our attention was the iconic Elephant Gate – Elephant is one of the label’s most popular varieties – in addition to numerous architectural monuments, including contemporary ones like the Bohr Tower. This year sees the completion of a whole new quarter adjoining the brewery and a new train station named Carlsberg has been unveiled, further facilitating travel to and from the city centre.

Housed in the factory complex is the Carlsberg Museum. It is made up of several historic buildings containing rooms replete with art objects. Some of them were originally the private showroom of Carl Jacobsen, founder of the famous brewery. However, nowadays most of the collection is housed in Glyptoteket, in downtown Copenhagen. If you dine in the restaurant, you will be escorted by 19th-century paintings by Krøyer and empresses in marble. We were awed by the mosaics on the ceiling and the marble columns.

In the summer months, admission is free on Fridays. The brewery is turned into a bar with a patio where you can enjoy a cold beer or eat a barbecued meal with a funk, jazz or groove DJ session in the background.

The Best Beer Houses in Copenhagen

Denmark’s most famous beers are Carlsberg and Tuborg, but these two pilseners are not your only options when touring the city, as its beer houses offer a seemingly endless variety. Here, then, is a list of our three favourites.

1) Mikkeller & Friends

One of the most popular beer houses in Vesterbro. They have also just opened another venue three times as large in Nørrebro, and offer up to 40 different types of barrel beer. The interior is divided into compartments which are opened as and when the premises fill up. At Mikkeller & Friends you can also buy beer to take away – they have a list of 350 types of bottled beer from all over the world.

2) WarPigs

Here you will find a large variety of beers – they have 22 fonts on the bar counter. WarPigs is actually an enormous Texan-style barbecue restaurant with two breweries on the premises. One belongs to the Danish brewer, Mikkeller, and the other to the American brewer, 3 Floyds. The two of them came together here with the aim of creating the best beer in the world. We don’t know if they achieved this, but, what we do know is that they crafted the only Danish-American beer on the planet.

3) Dia’legd

We regard this as our great discovery, hands down! Dia’legd lies in the heart of Vesterbro and is home to beer from the island of Fionia. Dia’legd focuses heavily on the Danish brewer, Refsvindinge. We heard the story from Michael Jensen, Kim Hoffmann-Madsen and Claus Jordan, the three friends who decided to specialise in this spectacular beer. “We offer the whole range of Refsvindinge beer, of which there are over 20 types, from pale ale to bock lager, pilseners, wheat beer… right down to porter,” remarked Claus Jordan, enthusiastically. If you visit Dia’legd, be sure to try the Ale no. 16, which was acclaimed the best Danish beer of 1997.

Why wait to cool down on some of the most refreshing beers in the world? Come and discover them for yourself – check out our flights here.

Text by Los viajes de ISABELYLUIS

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A tour in Hamburg

The first thing that struck us at the Port of Hamburg and, apparently it’s really trendy at the moment, are the so-called beach parties. On the terraces and in the bars close to the port they have set up hammocks, palm trees and spread the floors with sand. All of thiswith a view to replicating, as far as the cold climate of this city will permit, the cafés of Ibiza and their sunsets. Chill-out lounges, mojitos and caipiriñas in bars such asHamburg del Mar (in St.-Pauli-Landungsbrücken/Parkdeck) or the HCBC.

One of Hamburg’s best attractions is its Fischmarkt, or the Hamburg Fish Market (at Große Elbstraße 137). This is a huge, bustling open-air market that is set up beside the historic covered fish market where they also hold concerts you can go to with the whole family. It will call for an early rise if you want to pick up the best produce, as it only opens on Sunday mornings between 0500 and 0900.

Wandering through the port you will come across the huge ‘City of Warehouses’ or Warehouse District of Hamburg, the Speicherstadt, with its cobbled streets, criss-crossed by canals and red brick buildings. It was built between 1883 and 1927 and in its early days it had one of the biggest warehouses in the world, where merchandise arriving from at the port was dealt with. Now you will find it home to restaurants and museums.

The Port of Hamburg is undergoing big changes. In one huge area still under development, a key urban planning programme has been designed to rebuild the zone, called HafenCity and where they are building homes and offices. Rising above all these buildings will be the Elbphilharmonie, the impressiveElba Philharmonic that is expected to be inaugurated in 2014. On top of one of the old port warehouses they are building what looks like a glass crown that will be home to a concert hall with room for more than 2,000 spectators.

We were told that Hamburg has two brands of beer made in the city. One of these is the Astra beer which is made in St Pauli and which is easily recognisable thanks to its logo of a red heart which is also a port symbol. The other beer made in the city is Holsten which is produced in the district of Altona-Nord.

We really liked these 3 places for eating out:

1. Bullerei with its pleasant terrace and a healthy mid-week menu.

2. Fischhandel with its high, shared tables in Colonnaden street offers one cheap, balanced plate of food which is what everyone asks for and only costs 6.50 €. You place your order inside and they let you know when it’s ready by ringing a bell. We had a huge bowl of fussini with vegetables, wild mushrooms and a good portion of fish that tasted heavenly. When you finish eating, everyone takes their plates back inside which means they save waiting at tables in order for them to keep the prices down.

3. Gröninger Privatbrauerei serves typical Bavarian dishes: huge ham knuckles, cold cuts such as leberkäse, the traditional sauerkraut (pickled cabbage salad) or bratkartoffeln (sautéed potatoes). Prepare to loosen your belt as their portions are enormous. And the place is very warm and picturesque with enormous wooden tables to rub shoulders with other diners.

Without a doubt, the most famous street in Hamburg is the Reeperbahn in Sankt Pauli with its sex shops, strip clubs and all sorts of bars. It was here that the Beatles launched their career in 1960. They played their first concert at the Indra Club but the place where they really started to make a name for themselves was at the Star Club. The place no longer exists but there is a plaque that commemorates their presence in the city. Here’s a link to the whole route that remembers the period the Liverpool boys spent in Hamburg.

Also very well-known for its football team, the FC St Pauli is much loved by all Hamburgers and has a pirate skull for its logo. You can buy t-shirts and all sorts of gadgets at the FC St Pauli shop beside the football stadium or at another, more central shop on the Reeperbahn itself at No. 63-65.

Außenalster is one of the man-made lakes that forms the River Alster in the heart of the city. It is one of the favourite places to enjoy a sunny day and the meeting place for residents of Hamburg where they go to do different sports and activities.

Why not take a trip to Hamburg? Have a look at our flights here!

 

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Vintage Barcelona

Whoever lands in Barcelona for the first time is well aware of its fame as a design hub. For decades the city has been known for its openness to new trends and its links to modernity. It is precisely that flair for the modern that has led dozens of stores specialised in vintage objects and furniture to be opened in the Catalonian capital.

From a Scandinavian teak sideboard to Formica worktops, all manner of lamps, French garden chairs and furniture by anonymous craftsmen, veritable gems are to be had in these shops, which you should not miss during your stay in Barcelona.

You’re Sure to Find it in Gràcia 

One of the highest concentrations of retro furniture stores is in the district of Gràcia. What with its array of long-standing establishments, neighbourhood cinemas, artists’ studios and designers’ workshops, the district has become one of Barcelona’s main leisure and shopping areas. Strolling through its picturesque squares and narrow streets, Gràcia oozes charm throughout and is one of the best spots to experience the city’s genuine ethos. It was here that Alzira (C/ Verdi, 42) opened over ten years ago. Mónica, its owner, personally restores all the pieces of furniture on sale and the store has become a landmark in the sector, with a selection ranging from industrial trolleys to dining-room tables with tapered legs, psychedelic lamps and French crockery. Make sure you also see her collection of brooches from the 20s through the 70s. A short distance away, hard by the celebrated Plaça del Diamant, is La Mueblerí (C/ Topazi, 17), a veritable temple of furniture, where Aurora and her son import select pieces from various countries to merge them with traditional Spanish furniture. On sale in this former workshop converted into a store is a wealth of vintage school maps, sun wall mirrors, chairs of all kinds, doctor’s glass cabinets from the fifties and mid-century furniture. They also restore furniture and have an online sales website. Coco, their Jack Russell, would love you to stop by.

And, before leaving Gràcia, make sure you drop in on Topitos Furniture (C/ Torrent de l’Olla, 30), featuring one of the best selection of lamps in town, on display in a small space. David is a lighting lover and the treasures he has on offer include Lumica designs, mushroom lamps in sixties colours, opalines from the forties and lamps from Manises. Additionally, perched atop the garden tables and other furniture  you will find a careful selection of bronze and ceramic animal figures, crockery and glasses in many colours and all kinds of decorative objects.

Vintage Stores in El Raval and El Born

And, from one tasteful quarter to another. El Born is one of the liveliest districts in Barcelona. Wending your way among restaurants, ebullient terrace cafés, historic buildings and droves of tourists you will come to Gidlööf (Passatge Mercantil, 1), a must-see for enthusiasts of things Scandinavian. Here, the Swedish textile designer, Sofia Gidlööf, and the Barcelona architect, Gium Costa, have crafted a space where 20th-century furniture and other items from northern Europe are on display alongside their own designs.

Still in the city centre is a charming lane near La Rambla which reveals a hidden gem in the form of El Changuito (Passatge de la Pau, 13), a shop specialising in retro garden furniture, vintage mirrors and lighting. The premises are spacious and the displays well curated; indeed, you can easily get lost inside it for a while. From El Changuito you can head into El Raval, one of Barcelona’s most multifarious districts. After a short walk you will come to Fusta’m (C/ Joaquim Costa, 62), a priceless store owned by Lidia and Oriol where original furniture and objects rub shoulders with vintage remakes. Oriol, a carpenter by trade, also makes super, customised furniture.

Now, all that’s left is to find the piece you were looking for. Why wait to seek it out in Barcelona? Check out our flights here.

 

Text and images by Aleix Palau for ISABELYLUIS Comunicación

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The Jet Set’s Best Kept Secret

Granted, the seaboard of the Emerald Coast is a haven for anyone seeking idyllic beaches and crystal-clear turquoise waters. And one might be forgiven for forgetting to visit the town of Olbia. However, we are determined to sing the praises of this charming locality in the north of Sardinia, and of the Emerald Coast and environs. Touring here during the summer months is obviously a surefire bet, but we intend to persuade you to make an off-season visit, to discover the area’s true DNA, over and above any touristic conditioning.

Olbia

On the opposite side to its industrial precinct lies an attractive town with a historical centre dotted with shops, wine bars and café-packed squares. But, above all, the authenticity of Olbia stands in stark contrast to the more touristy areas on the north and south sides of the island.

Located on the Emerald Coast, Olbia is clearly evocative of a classical Sardinian picture postcard – white sandy beaches, wind-sculpted rocks projecting into the blue sea and luxury tourism galore, with yachts moored off the many coves along the coastline. However, inland Gallura seems to be in the antipodes, with its vineyards, pretty villages, mountains and mysterious nuragas – the most prolific megalithic construction on the island dating back prior to 1,000 BC. The northern Gallura coastline is rugged, its waters an exclusive sanctuary for dolphins, divers and windsurfers delighting in the marine reserve of La Maddalena. The Maddalena National Park includes an archipelago made up of seven islands, known as “the Seven Sisters”: La Maddalena – the largest of them – Caprera, Santo Stefano, Spargi, Budelli, Santa Maria and Razzoli. All the islands are granitic, set close to one another and surrounded by shallow water. This, added to the chromatic fluctuations of the sea and the marvel of nature here make for an incomparable setting well worth discovering. The town still has the appearance of a former fishing village and its sights include the town hall, the parish church of Santa Maria Maddalena, as well as restaurants and shops offering all kinds of products.

Emerald Coast

The Emerald Coast, which stretches for 55 km from Porto Rotondo to the Gulf of Arzachena, is the island’s most sought after tourist destination, a flashy preserve of luxury hotels, hidden beaches and pleasure harbours accessible to a chosen few. Ever since the Aga Khan acquired the coast for a sou in the 1960s, it has attracted the jet set from all over the world and, of course, a swarm of paparazzi, too. But, despite such trifles, the fact remains it is a well nigh perfect setting, with granite mountains bathed in emerald-green waters and a string of coves, each of them different yet perfect in its own right.

Its capital is Porto Cervo, an unusual seaside resort in that it resembles a mock-up, with Moorish-style buildings and squeaky-clean streets. Jaunty, rakish and worldly, this sophisticated spot is a veritable paradise. From June to September it is the hub of high-class partying, with tanned beauties posing in the Piazzetta and oil millionaires ambling about the big name stores. But, the coast is very quiet for the rest of the year and it is unlikely you will bump into anybody, apart from the odd bunch of locals.

A westbound excursion would be in order. You will come to Baia Sardinia, an expanse of exquisite sand, while in the south, near the Hotel Cala di Volpe, lie the spectacular beaches of Capriccioli and Spiaggia di Liscia Ruia. Hard by the Hotel Romazzino, the beach of Spiaggia del Principe fans out in the shape of a crescent moon, its white sand bathed by the deep blue sea. But, let’s press on with our dream. And, not all the region’s treasures are sited along the coast.

Not to be missed in the interior is the village of San Pantaleo. Further inland, the town of Arzachena reveals a number of interesting archaeological sites, notably Nuraghe di Albucciu, alongside the main road to Olbia, and Coddu Ecchju, one of the island’s most important tombe dei giganti – funerary monuments made up of communal burials dating from the Nuragic period (second millennium BC).

Eager to discover the marvels of Olbia and the Emerald Coast during the quieter months? Check out our flights here.

 

Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación

Images by Gabriel Garcia Marengo

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