Art In the Raw, Just Half an Hour from Copenhagen
A museum in Denmark named after an American state? This is not the only fetching fact about Louisiana. Located in the small town of Humlebæk, some 35 kilometres north of Copenhagen, Louisiana draws thousands of visitors each year to its alluring interior and exterior. Its contemporary art collection is truly extraordinary, as is – perhaps even to a greater degree – its siting, opposite the cold waters separating Denmark from Sweden, nestling in a vast area of parkland, trees and cliffs. Likewise its architectural design, seamlessly integrated into its surroundings.
The museum was founded in 1958 by the Danish businessman and philanthropist, Knud W. Jensen, who commissioned the first stage of the project to the architects Vilhelm Wohlert and JørgenBo. Oddly enough, the museum is not actually named after the American state, but on account of a coincidence – the previous owner of the land happened to marry three times, and each time his wife was named Louise! As the museum’s private collection is far larger than what can be displayed, many of the constituent works are loaned from one place to another. The building houses works by Lucien Freud, David Hockney, Asger Jorn (one of Denmark’s leading 20th-century artists), the Spaniard, Juan Muñoz, photographers such as the German, Thomas Demand, and the New Yorker, Cindy Sherman. And, what is likely the jewel in the crown – a room where a painting by Francis Bacon, and one of the most striking sculptures by Alberto Giacometti, are placed face to face, as if in the throes of an ongoing dialogue. In the garden we find several weighty sculptures, including one by Alexander Calder and another by Joan Miró – set just five metres apart and permanently chaperoned by the sea in the background – in addition to works by Louise Bourgeois and Max Ernst, among many others.
You have just until the end of January – be quick! – to see a long-distance exhibition hosted by the museum, as well as an installation which raises eyebrows. The exhibition reviews the extensive, colourist and provocative work of the multi-disciplinary Japanese artist, Yayoi Kusama (phallic sculptures, rooms painted in polka dots, rent garments and other marvels). The installation is a huge sculpture by the Canadian, David Altmejd, called The Flux and the Puddle, which takes up a whole room and is well nigh impossible to fathom – it involves a visceral, high-impact blend of methacrylate, food, taxidermy, strings and mirrors.
Louisiana is easy to reach from Copenhagen – at the Central Station in the capital, you take a Helsingor-bound train and get off at Humlebæk. That’s all. On your return, you are urged to explore the district of Vesterbro, adjoining the aforementioned Central Station. Once the haunts of prostitutes and crooks, it is now one of the most exciting and bustling city quarters, brimming with galleries, stores, cafés and restaurants. Make sure you stop off at Bang & Jensen, in Istedgade, which is open all day. Their lentil soup with curry and cilantro comes highly recommended, and you can also play some pinball and Arkanoid. Another landmark worth seeing is the so-called Meatpacking District, the former fish and meat market reconditioned as one of Copenhagen’s cool areas, where you can choose from among a host of appetising culinary offerings. For lovers of music and vinyl, the best spot in Vesterbro is undoubtedly Sort Kaffe & Vinyl, a small record shop cum bar. Or vice versa – a café with records. Its claim to fame is a small but carefully curated selection of folk, jazz, electronic, exotic and experimental music. For sleeping over and putting away a hearty breakfast the next morning, here are two recommendations in the same district: Bertrams Guldsmeden (very near Værnedamsvej, one of the prettiest streets in the city), and the Avenue Hotel, which has a beautiful patio if you happen to be there in spring or summer.
While the city itself is well worth the visit, the chance to see Louisiana and even spend some hours in Vesterbro makes this a well nigh compulsory trip. Why wait to book your flight to Copenhagen?
Text by Carles Novellas for ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
Images by Carles Novellas and Anna Higueras
more infoTravel to Japan without leaving Europe
Did you know that Little Tokyo district of Düsseldorf is certainly the closest you can get to Japan without leaving Europe?
Since the 50s the Japanese settled in Düsseldorf for supplies of materials and machinery for rebuilding their country after World War II. Today, with more than 450 Japanese companies and 11,000 people, it is the third largest Japanese community in Europe. This has made the city a must-visit destination for all lovers of Japanese culture and cuisine.
If you feel like making a quantum leap and landing in Japan without leaving Europe I suggest the following gastronomic route. As an anecdote I will tell you that in all places I can deal with Japanese without having to use English or German, and for a moment I forget that I was in Germany.
Immermannstrasse 41
Located at the heart of Little Tokyo, this superior 4 star hotel belongs to a prestigious Japanese hotel group. The Torii Bar in the hotel lobby is now a classic as a meeting point for the Japanese community in the city, because in the same building it is located the German-Japanese Centre. In the hotel itself is also found Benkay Restaurant, highly acclaimed by all as the best teppanyaki in town, and the sushi bar Fish Corner run by the cheff Hisato Mochizuki. It is to highlight a careful selection of sakes, where you can staste such delights as Dassai 23, the more refined sake that is produced, or Shimeharitsuru “Jun” of Niigata prefecture .
Takumi Takumi and 2nd
Immermannstrasse 28
Just opposite Nikko Hotel is located Takumi, a unique ramen bar where you can try 100% vegetarian ramen broth noodles. Possibly it is one of the only places in the world where you can taste ramen sitting on a terrace. A few meters away it is Takumi 2nd (Ostrasse 51), from the same owners, where you can also try tonkotsu miso ramen made with pork broth and miso or their delicious homemade gyoza dumplings.
Ostrasse 55
Another ramen bar, with a far more extensive menu where you should not miss Chashu Tokusei miso ramen or ramen “de lux” with miso and marinated pork slices. To round it up, you can ask them to add some wantan in the same bowl. Other curiosities include Chanpon, a bowl of noodles with crispy vegetables, typical of Nagasaki, or Tantan Men, spicy noodles that you must taste. On the opposite sidewalk is Naniwa Sushi & More, which, as its name suggests, you can order sushi and some other dish.
Klosterstrasse 70
A simple restaurant, where many Japanese families get together to eat all kinds of authentic dishes such as Takosu or viengar-seasoned octopus; beef tongue grilled or Gyutan, a typical dish from Sendai; tebasaki fried chicken wings, or Kushikatsu breaded kebabs, very typical dish in Japanese taverns because it is very easy to share, where the kebabs are immersed in a communal tonkatsu sauce jar. Unwritten rule is that you may only dip once into the sauce before a bite.
Nagomi
Bismarckstrasse 53
I must confess I do not have time to try this establishment but I was totally delighted by its spacious sushi bar made of wood and its design. Definitive proof was it was full of Japanese customers. Later on, the Bon owners, a Japanese bookstore located at Marienstrasse 41, confirmed it was one of the latest restaurants they just opened in the neighborhood and it was a very successful one. Another place I reserved for my next visit was Kagaya tavern (Potsdamer 60), an authentic izakaya where you can taste some of the best sakes with a ramen bowl or some other dish.
Nagaya
Klosterstrasse 42
The only Japanese restaurant with a Michelin star in Germany. The Japanese cuisine in combination with traditional European dishes and sushi are a must for all of these who consider themselves a gourmet. A few meters away is Soba-an (Klosterstrasse 68), run by Reiko Miyashita and her husband, who makes her own handmade soba noodles. An alternative to fast food that should not be missed.
If you are still hungry and you want to take a piece of Japan in your hand luggage, you can approach Shochiku supermarket (Immermannstrasse 15), where you will find all kind of tools and products such as sauces, dressings, Japanese curries and even a fish market where they prepare specific fish pieces to make sushi at home.
By Roger Ortuño
So you feel like visiting Düsseldorf, do you? Book your flights here!
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The Lavender Route
We are poised on the cusp of June when lavender, Provence’s most iconic plant, starts coming into blossom. Scattered all about the region, from June to August the fields become awash with an unmistakeable purple hue which will linger in your mind for some time after a sojourn in this land. Indeed, embarking on the lavender route is one of the best ways of touring this priceless French region, dotted with charming villages which exude that je ne sais quoi you will find absolutely captivating, beckoning you back year after year. Not for nothing were artists of the calibre of Van Gogh, Cézanne and Picasso fascinated by the light – that light ! – as well as by the charm emanating from the landscapes of Provence, which they set about immortalising in their works.
Picture Postcard Villages
The Vaucluse is the area of Provence with the highest concentration of lavender farms. There you will encounter vast fields filled with this aromatic plant, ideal for taking the snap that will earn your Instagram post a host of “likes”. You will also come across myriad charming villages which you are advised to venture into and stroll around. Gordes,which clings to a hillside, has become something of a magnet for the well-heeled of late, featuring upscale restaurants and hotels that contrast starkly with the rural calling of the surrounding area. Another village just waiting to be framed is Roussillon, where house fronts are painted in all possible shades of ochre, forming a harmonious ensemble. Bonnieux, which is one of our favourites, boasts large stone houses and a church at the top of the village commanding stunning views of the surroundings. Les Baux de Provence is another classic in the area. Its major landmark is its ruined castle, while the village is renowned as a venue for a troubadour song festival.
Must-Do Excursions
Apart from picturesque villages, a tour of Provence will reveal such gems as the 12th-century Sénanque Abbey, whose monks grow lavender – could it be otherwise? The idyllic image of the abbey features in practically all guides of the area. An interesting visit near Gordes is Village des Bories, an open-air area with around twenty restored bories, a unique type of stone hut made of limestone. If you’re a nature lover, be sure to head for the environs of Rustrel where, in a spot known as the French Colorado, erosion has carved out an unusual landscape dominated by ochre tones.
Provençal Markets – Tastes of Proximity
Find out in advance which days of the week markets are scheduled for in the various towns and villages you are likely to pass through, as they are the perfect excuse for getting to taste the flavours of each area, in addition to being the days on which the atmosphere is liveliest. Be sure to stock up on delicious craft cheeses and a fresh baguette, and seek out a pleasant spot to savour them. Wash it all down with a fine wine from the region – Châteauneuf-du-Pape is a great option – and a hearty tuck-in is guaranteed.
De Luxe Cuisine
Gastronomy is one of the fortes of this route. We can assure you that, wherever you go in Provence, you will find good food, although prices are a little on the dear side. We can also guarantee you will always be able to eat your fill, as helpings tend to be generous. Suffice to behold the size of their delicious, expertly dressed salads to realise that you’ll end up feeling anything but peckish. Bear in mind that the region does attract lots of tourists in the high season, so it’s worth booking a table in advance, particularly for dinner. Black truffle devotees should drop in on Chez Serge, located in Carpentras, where you can go to town on their dishes based on that aromatic fungus. And, among the unusual delicacies you can get to savour in Provence is homemade lavender ice-cream, occasionally served up for dinner at Château de la Gabelle.
A Lavender Souvenir
One thing that catches one’s attention when visiting Provence is the sheer number of products incorporating this pretty flower with its unmistakeable scent. No wonder, then, that Provence accounts for 80% of the world’s lavender production. You are sure to end up buying some lavender souvenir, from the classic ornamental bouquet to sachets for keeping in wardrobes, honey, sweets, soaps and all kinds of toiletries.
Book your Vueling to Marseille and strike out on a tour of Provence at its moment of maximum splendour.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
more infoSantiago A Passion For Sweets
Holy Week is a festivity accompanied by a long culinary tradition, among other things. Some of its hallmarks include confectionery and desserts, which adopt a host of guises across the geography of Spain. Not to be outdone, Santiago de Compostela, a city of fine food, has its own versions, as evinced in the gems created by different local religious orders, those inherited from the city’s long chocolatiering tradition and imports from the Americas, which have spread all over Europe via the Road to Santiago.
In an effort to keep this tradition alive and provide enjoyment for locals and visitors alike, the second edition of a gastronomic event catering to the sweet-toothed known as Santiago Paixón Doce will be held from 7 to 17 April. For the duration of this festivity, some 29 venues, notably bars, cafés and restaurants, will be offering a special menu laced with traditional Holy Week fare, among which confectionery features prominently. Highlights include torrijas (a kind of French bread), leche frita (literally, “fried milk”), buñuelos (fritters), rosquillas (a ring-shaped pastry), melindres (buns), roscas (a kind of doughnut), “passion chocolates”, cakes and other confectionery typical at this time of year. Check out the list of venues taking part in this tasty experience here.
Eight Delicacies in the Compostelan Holy Week
For those not familiar with Santiago de Compostela’s Holy Week culinary tradition, we have drawn up a selection of the confectionery you simply must taste on your visit to the city. Take note!
1. Concha de Santiago (St James Shell)
This is a veritable tribute to the city of Santiago de Compostela, as it features its paramount symbol, the pilgrim’s scallop shell or viera worked into a delicious chocolate figure. One of the many establishments where you can taste the concha de Santiago is the Chocolat Factory, located in the Praza do Toural.
2. Tarta de Santiago (St James Cake)
With its origins going back to the 16th century, the tarta de Santiago is unquestionably the most popular cake in Santiago de Compostela. Needless to say, you can find it in all the city’s pastry shops and bakeries, from Las Colonias – with its long-standing tradition – to Á Casa Mora, said to be the artificers of the Cross of St James having been incorporated into the cake.
3. Chocolate a la taza
As mentioned earlier, Santiago is a city with a long-standing tradition of chocolatiers. One of the local favourites is “chocolate a la taza”, which is thick hot chocolate for dunking churros (fritters) in. A classic spot for savouring this wonderful delicacy is the Chocolatería Metate (Rúa do Preguntoiro, 12).
4. Monastic Delights
In bygone times, it fell to the religious orders to introduce foreign traditions to Compostela, including the recipes using almonds and egg yolk, which had a marked influence on local confectionery and ended up spawning both the tarta de Santiago and almendrados (macaroons). There are currently two convents in Santiago which still make their own confectionery. One is the Antealtares Monastery, where the Benedictines make almendrados, tarta de Santiago and cookies, all of which are available on a daily basis, and brazo de gitano, a kind of Swiss roll which is made only to order. The other is Belvís Convent, where the Dominicans make bespoke batches of almendrados, mantecados (a kind of shortbread made with lard)and tarta de Santiago, as well as selling freshly baked cookies.
5. Cheese and Chocolate Cakes
We recommend you drop in on the Airas Nunes Café, which specialises in homemade cakes and tortiñas (milk tarts).
6. Assorted “Pecados” (Sins)
The Cantón del Toural is home to the so-called Pecados de Compostela (Sins of Compostela), a unique type of candy wrapped in seven forms to match the seven deadly sins, one for each day of the week. Be a daredevil and try them!
7. Xacobea
Despite having very similar ingredients to the Easter cake known as the rosca de Pascua,the Xacobea is moister as it contains syrup. Available in numerous pastry shops dotted about the city, notably La Estrella (Suevia).
8. Rosquilla
The rosquilla, also known as a melindre, typically eaten at traditional shrine festivals in Galicia, is also a classic of Holy Week and Easter in Galicia. Sold at a host of venues in Santiago de Compostela.
Text and photos by Turismo de Santiago
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