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Slow Sightseeing in Mahón

An appealing and thoroughly slow day might involve strolling leisurely through Mahón, the island’s capital city, as it has one of the most beautiful promenades in the country. The clear waters and the gentle sea breeze wafting in from the gulf make a walk along this promenade an essential experience. We propose the following itinerary, having judiciously weighed up many other potential alternatives.

Venturing Out

Start out on the Camí de Ciutadella and link up with Calle s’Arraval, which leads you into Plaza Bastió. Still standing there is one of the old city gates, a vestige of the 14th century. It is worth stopping in the square to have a bite, before setting out on the walk. Head for Santa Rita, which offers tapas and well-drawn draught beer as its fortes. From there, make for the old town and stroll aimlessly about. After a while, you will inevitably draw gradually nearer to the harbour. The stretch running towards the Moll de Llevant jetty is very pleasant. The right side is lined solid with shops, from those selling craft souvenirs of the island to restaurants, ice-cream parlours and seafaring pubs whose calling card, currently in vogue, is a cocktail based on gin and tonic, downed – gulp! – to the rhythm of chill-out music.

A Stopover

But, let’s take a breather, and the best place to relax is Can Vermut, a youthful spot where you can have well-priced tapas while savouring one of their wonderful aperitifs. As an accompaniment, we recommend the huevos estrellados cabreados (fried eggs and chips with pungent red pepper), anchovies and homemade chicken croquettes.A great tuck-in there will cost you less than 15 euros. After that, the best way to promote digestion is to continue along the itinerary, at a leisurely pace, calmly taking in everything happening around you – enjoy the marvellous maritime views, with the breeze caressing your skin. Before pressing on, go over to the sea side of the street and delight in the sight of yachts and other vessels dotting the coastline. Also entertaining is watching the fish – some are really huge! –in the crystal-clear waters. One way of enjoying the moment is to chill out on the terrace of the kiosko, on the lower reaches of La Costa de Ses Voltes. There, the breeze is likely to rouse you from your lethargy and, if you order a coffee to boot – here, they are served strong – you will regain the necessary vitality for resuming your sightseeing venture.

“Wanderer, there is no path”

Refuelling would be in order now, particularly if you want to negotiate the steep slope back up to the old town. This will take you to the Museu de Menorca, which affords a stunning, panoramic view of the spectacular gulf. The museum is housed in the erstwhile convent of Sant Francesc, where the building and its contents are equally interesting. The latter include unique exhibits from all ages, illustrating the socio-cultural evolution and changes wrought in Minorca, from its pre-history to the present. After that you could have a stroll around the shopping centre, starting at the Plaça de la Constitució, where you can admire the neoclassical architecture of the Ayuntamiento or City Hall. Inside the adjoining Church of Santa María you can have a peep at the monumental organ, comprising 3,210 pipes and four keyboards, designed by the German masters Otter and Kirburz. Near there, at 11 Ses Moreres street, is the Heladería Ambrosia. Resisting the temptation to enter this ice-cream parlour when passing by would be something of a feat. So, you choose a flavour and then head for the Claustro del Carme, just a few metres away, immediately opposite the Plaza de España. From here, both sides of the Calle del Carme are lined with small shops offering wares ranging from confectionery and delicatessen to fine leather.

Tell Me a Story

After window shopping in Mahón, you’re certainly going to need a rest. You could go over to the Teatro Principal de Mahón, to see what’s on the programme. It is really well worth visiting. This was the first opera house to be unveiled in Spain and last year marked its 185th anniversary. The fact is that Minorca has a long-standing operatic tradition. The story goes that many companies that were touring the continent used to stop over at Minorca and it was here that they would stage their dress rehearsals before pressing on to London, Paris or Vienna. It was then that Minorcans came into contact with this genre of theatrical music, and the decision was made to  build a theatre devoted mainly to opera, in order to enjoy works in a comfortable setting. And, to round off the day, we recommend going for a pomada – Gin Xoriguer and lemonade – at the Bar Nou. Opened in 1986 by Joan Saura in an art nouveau building, it is now a whole institution among Minorcans, and here they really know what they’re doing.

I’m sure you’re eager to explore Mahón – check out our flights here.

Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación

Images by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación, Can Vermut

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A Walk Through the Clouds

The island of Gran Canaria offers all the rural leisure amenities you can imagine and more, including adventure sports and trekking.

From Sea to Sky

One breathtaking route stretches from the Gran Canaria coast to the top of the island’s highest peak, a secluded spot which is the closest you’ll ever get to a lunar landscape. In the municipality of Tejeda, some 44 km from Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, you can easily find yourself trapped by a sea of clouds. Tejeda can be reached mainly by the Centro GC 15 main road, a somewhat winding route flanked by stunningly beautiful scenery which takes you through the towns of Santa Brígida and Vega de San Mateo. The most exciting part of the journey starts here, as you begin to climb so steeply that the clouds recede below you. The 44-km drive takes about an hour. It can also be reached by public transport from the Guaguas station in Las Palmas de Gran Canaria.

El Roque Bentayga and the Archaeology Park

Tejeda is a must-see if you come to Gran Canaria and more so if you’re interested in archaeology. Here you can find vestiges of burial caves, rock carvings, paintings and dwellings. The Roque Bentayga provides an excellent sampling of all this. This unique, natural rock precinct was sacred to the original inhabitants, as it was here that they prayed to their gods. The Parque Arqueológico del Bentayga is an ecomuseum built next to the Roque. It also serves as a venue for performances, both for the archaeological rock complex (Bentayga, Andén de Tabacalete, Cuevas del Rey and the Roquete) and its surroundings. It also affords wonderful views of the southern and western reaches of the island.

Culture and Mysticism

The symbol of Gran Canaria is also to be found at Tejeda. This is the Roque Nublo, a huge basalt rock in the form of a monolith stretching 70 metres into the air. On its north-eastern side stands another monolithic rock known as El Fraile (the Friar), as it physically resembles a monk. While you’re here, take the chance to roam through the Inagua and Ojeda pine forests and, further north, that of los Pechos, for here you are bound to fall in love with the views.

Art and culture also make their presence felt in Tejeda. Here you can visit the Abraham Cárdenes Sculpture Museum, dedicated to this Canary Island sculptor, who hailed from here, and also the Ethnographic Museum, where you go on a journey of the town’s and the island’s history. Here, too, the Degollada de Becerra is another spot well worth visiting. It is situated on the main road between La Cruz de Tejeda and los Llanos de la Pez, and features a viewpoint affording spectacular scenery and, more importantly, a centre where you can learn about local ethnography. Lastly, the town boasts a Centro de Plantas Medicinales, where you are invited to discover the varieties of plants, herbs and flowers indigenous to Tejeda and the island and their varied use in medicine, religion and cosmetics.

Gastronomy

Establishments in Tejeda centre offer all types of craftwork and you can also find the typical sweets made here. You are also advised to stop at one of the bar terraces and restaurants located on the side of the Parador Nacional, a magnificent vantage point providing spectacular views of the whole island. 

Almonds play a major role in the cuisine of Tejeda, a town which has become one of the landmarks of Canary Island confectionery, noteworthy among which are the bienmesabes and marzipans. Both sweets are made using ground almond, the former also being one of the traditional accompaniments of local iced desserts. In Tejeda you can also sample any of the Canary Islands’ traditional dishes, the mainstay of which are beef and goat’s meat. Make sure to try such dishes as the caldos de papas (potato soup) and the potajes de berros y jaramagos (watercress and hedge mustard stews). If you’d like to sample good local cooking, a restaurant you should not miss is the Cueva de la Tea, where you can order a potaje de berros and their speciality, ropa vieja– chick peas, potato, hog’s head, chicken, tomatoes, peppers and onion. The average price per head is 12 euros and the helpings are generous. It also has the advantage of affording spectacular views.

What’s holding you back? Check out our flights here.

Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación

Images byPatronato de Turismo de Gran Canaria

 

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The Ria de Muros e Noia , the Port of Santiago de Compostela

The Ria de Muros e Noia is one of the Galicia region’s least built-up coastal areas, and also one of the most beautiful. Fishing boats landing delicious, shellfish, white sandy beaches with good surfing, all framed by green hills with a riot of vegetation –it’s definitely worth a visit. Here is a route you might consider.

Mt. Louro and the Xarfas Lagoon
Starting from the northern extreme of the estuary, between the Costa da Morte and Muros, you can stand atop Louro mountain, a 241-metre high granite block, and feast on the views of the Ria de Muros e Noia and the Lagoa de Xarfas with its fabulous Area Maior beach. The surrounding –hills, dunes, beach and the lagoon—boast a wealth of flora and fauna. There’s even an observatory for watching migratory birds.

Muros
Heading south we come to the town of Muros, founded in the 10th C. , and now featuring modest fishermen’s houses next to lordly mansions from bygone times. A stroll the town in the late afternoon can be timed to coincide with the arrival of the boats in the evening after a day’s fishing. The fish is put up for sale immediately on the dock, which is also an interesting spectacle to watch. And it means your shellfish dinner will be fresh and delicious. You won’t be disappointed by any of the restaurants under the arches near the water’s edge.

Just three kilometres away on the road to Noia is the Muíño de Mareas do Pozo do Cachón, a flour mill powered by the tides, built in the last quarter of the 19th C. There is also an interesting museum.

Noia
Noia is the biggest town in the estuary, and is only 36 km distant from Santiago. According to tradition, it was named for Noah, who is believed to have settled there after the Biblical flood. The city’s coat of arms shows an ark and a dove bearing an olive branch.

The old quarter features two churches built in the local version of the Gothic style: San Martiño (15th-16th C.) and Santa María a Nova (14th C.), the latter with a fascinating collection of about 500 tombstones. The 16th C. convent of San Francisco may also be visited, and the town is replete with stately mansions, such as the Casa da Xouba, the Pazo Dacosta (or Casa de Rivas), and the Pazo Forno do Rato. In the Obre district the pazos (mansions) of Pena de Ouro and Bergondo are worth a visit.

Some five kilometres from de Noia, across the Tambre, we come to the Ponte Nafonso, a bridge built during the 12th C. reign of King Alfonso IX of Leon and Galicia. It consists of a score of pointed arches lying on granite ashlars. The setting against the sea and mountains makes the sight of the bridge all the more spectacular

Castro de Baroña
On the south side of the estuary, next to the fishing village of Porto do Son, is the Castro de Baroña, an Iron Age Celtic settlement, with a score of round or oval stone cottages, once thatched, on a small peninsula. The archaeological remains and the wonderful landscape make it a worthwhile visit.

Corrubedo Dunes Nature Park
Between the Ria de Muros and Noia and that of Arousa, to the south, lies this lovely park with beaches, dunes, fresh- and salt-water lagoons, wetlands, and even megalithic remains. One of the main attractions is the “moving dune”, a restless pile of sand about a kilometre long , 200-300 meters wide, and 20 metres tall.

Some Further Recommendations
Though the quickest way to explore the Muros and Noia estuary is by the AC-550 coast road, we recommend side trips into the surrounding hills to get the best views.

For lodging there are numerous country inns and guest houses on both sides of the water, most of them in old and typical buildings. A particularly unusual place to stay is the hotel Pesquería del Tambre, in the Tambre river valley on the site of and old hydroelectric dam transformed into a nature hotel by the architect Antonio Palacios.

Check out our flights to Santiago de Compostela and head west to the sea!

Text: Isabel y Luis Comunicación

Pictures: Turismo de Galicia

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Eating Well in London, Indoors or Out

The thing about London is that you can not only eat very well, but that you can eat almost anyplace, including the street, where food trucks and outdoor stalls abound. Take a stroll around the busy Brick Lanemarket in East London, especially on a Sunday, to glimpse and sniff the startling diversity of tempting dishes you can try in a city where you can snack 24/7 without repeating yourself. You might start with a good curry in Banglatown, an excellent Egyptian koshariin Boroughmarket, a mealy African ugali in Brixton Market, or a tasty Sri Lankan kothi-roti in the new Kerb Clubhouse in Hackney Wick, one of London’s best districts for “alternative” dining and shopping, where you can fill up on exotic food and drink for very little money in a very cosmopolitan atmosphere.

Why settle for a hot dog when you can have a wood-stove baked pizza at Fundi, traditional fish and chips at Proper Fish&Chips, or even an authentic Spanish paella at La Churrería, a Spanish restaurant on wheels you can usually find between Devonshire Square and Chapel Market on Angel street.

A must on Lexington street is the Asian restaurant Bao, specialising in a variety of steamed, stuffed pastries. There is often a queue outside, which says a lot.

The fashion for Latin cuisine is very much in evidence via the stands in street food markets where you can sample Mexican tacos and burritos, or tasty South American ceviche –marinated raw fish “cooked” in lime juice. For a more African experience and a huge variety of fresh foods you should visit the Ridley Street market in Dalton, especially on Saturdays, for unforgettable shopping and culinary experiences.

If you fancy sitting down indoors to enjoy good Spanish food in London, you should consider the Hispania, Ametsa, Ibérica,o r the new StreetXo.

You’ll have to book in advance to a chance to try London’s best gourmet hamburgers in Bar Boulud, a French-style basement bistro in the commercial district of Knightsbridge. The menu constantly changes to include the best foods in season, and it is famed for its sauces and puddings.

Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, 66 Knightsbridge.

 

New restaurants open every day in London and it’s hard to keep track, but a here are a few of the most promising:

The Attendant. The old public lavatories dating from the Victorian are now a hugely popular underground café, serving hot and cold dishes, both savoury and sweet. The atmosphere and the décor make it a unique spot to enjoy a drink, snack, or meal.

27A Foley St.


Cereal Killer Cafe. A unusual self-service café specialising in cereals served with different types of milk and toppings.

139 Brick Lane


Hixter. Great service, succulent steaks, artistic and imaginative décor, and a winning personality define this new restaurant near Shakespeare’s Globe Theatre south of the Thames. It’s ideal for long conversations with friends over fine food and excellent coffee, and features its own bar.

16 Great Guildford Street

 

Jenius Social.Cooking and socialisation are a formidable combination at this unusual venue founded by Jennifer Yong, and “starring” chef Andrew Clements –a student of the legendary Jamie Oliver. It operates as a international cooking school, tapas bar, and delicatessen.

Studio 8, 6 Hornsey Street, Islington

 

Breakfast (with or without bed)

The Caesar. You can breakfast like a king (or queen) in Queens Gardens after a good night’s sleep in the eponymous hotel located near the Bayswater, Queensway, and Paddington tube stations. Functional, sober, elegant, and very attentive to guests, this is a wonderful venue for savouring a traditional British breakfast, though you can also choose a Spanish potato omelette (tortilla) or even more exotic items from the breakfast buffet.

26-33, Queens Gardens, Hyde Park

 

Your Afternoon Tea

Grand Café Villandry. This is where London’s cognoscenti do their people watching over tea behind the huge windows overlooking the busy street. For £18 per person on weekends you can have tea and a selection of sandwiches, biscuits and cakes, and pralines. And a glass of champagne!

12 Waterloo Place, St. James's

 

Jaw dropping

At The Shard you’ll have London literally at your feet, since you’ll be 309.6 meters above ground, Western Europe’s highest urban lookout point, with views in all directions. It’s especially impressive at night.

32 London Bridge Street

Check out our prices here!

 

Report by Belén Parra. Gastronomistas.com

 

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