Travel to Japan without leaving Europe
Did you know that Little Tokyo district of Düsseldorf is certainly the closest you can get to Japan without leaving Europe?
Since the 50s the Japanese settled in Düsseldorf for supplies of materials and machinery for rebuilding their country after World War II. Today, with more than 450 Japanese companies and 11,000 people, it is the third largest Japanese community in Europe. This has made the city a must-visit destination for all lovers of Japanese culture and cuisine.
If you feel like making a quantum leap and landing in Japan without leaving Europe I suggest the following gastronomic route. As an anecdote I will tell you that in all places I can deal with Japanese without having to use English or German, and for a moment I forget that I was in Germany.
Immermannstrasse 41
Located at the heart of Little Tokyo, this superior 4 star hotel belongs to a prestigious Japanese hotel group. The Torii Bar in the hotel lobby is now a classic as a meeting point for the Japanese community in the city, because in the same building it is located the German-Japanese Centre. In the hotel itself is also found Benkay Restaurant, highly acclaimed by all as the best teppanyaki in town, and the sushi bar Fish Corner run by the cheff Hisato Mochizuki. It is to highlight a careful selection of sakes, where you can staste such delights as Dassai 23, the more refined sake that is produced, or Shimeharitsuru “Jun” of Niigata prefecture .
Takumi Takumi and 2nd
Immermannstrasse 28
Just opposite Nikko Hotel is located Takumi, a unique ramen bar where you can try 100% vegetarian ramen broth noodles. Possibly it is one of the only places in the world where you can taste ramen sitting on a terrace. A few meters away it is Takumi 2nd (Ostrasse 51), from the same owners, where you can also try tonkotsu miso ramen made with pork broth and miso or their delicious homemade gyoza dumplings.
Ostrasse 55
Another ramen bar, with a far more extensive menu where you should not miss Chashu Tokusei miso ramen or ramen “de lux” with miso and marinated pork slices. To round it up, you can ask them to add some wantan in the same bowl. Other curiosities include Chanpon, a bowl of noodles with crispy vegetables, typical of Nagasaki, or Tantan Men, spicy noodles that you must taste. On the opposite sidewalk is Naniwa Sushi & More, which, as its name suggests, you can order sushi and some other dish.
Klosterstrasse 70
A simple restaurant, where many Japanese families get together to eat all kinds of authentic dishes such as Takosu or viengar-seasoned octopus; beef tongue grilled or Gyutan, a typical dish from Sendai; tebasaki fried chicken wings, or Kushikatsu breaded kebabs, very typical dish in Japanese taverns because it is very easy to share, where the kebabs are immersed in a communal tonkatsu sauce jar. Unwritten rule is that you may only dip once into the sauce before a bite.
Nagomi
Bismarckstrasse 53
I must confess I do not have time to try this establishment but I was totally delighted by its spacious sushi bar made of wood and its design. Definitive proof was it was full of Japanese customers. Later on, the Bon owners, a Japanese bookstore located at Marienstrasse 41, confirmed it was one of the latest restaurants they just opened in the neighborhood and it was a very successful one. Another place I reserved for my next visit was Kagaya tavern (Potsdamer 60), an authentic izakaya where you can taste some of the best sakes with a ramen bowl or some other dish.
Nagaya
Klosterstrasse 42
The only Japanese restaurant with a Michelin star in Germany. The Japanese cuisine in combination with traditional European dishes and sushi are a must for all of these who consider themselves a gourmet. A few meters away is Soba-an (Klosterstrasse 68), run by Reiko Miyashita and her husband, who makes her own handmade soba noodles. An alternative to fast food that should not be missed.
If you are still hungry and you want to take a piece of Japan in your hand luggage, you can approach Shochiku supermarket (Immermannstrasse 15), where you will find all kind of tools and products such as sauces, dressings, Japanese curries and even a fish market where they prepare specific fish pieces to make sushi at home.
By Roger Ortuño
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Belgrade In Three Itineraries
In truth, Belgrade has not been fairly treated by history, as the peoples, cultures and religions that passed through the city left more of a trail of destruction than a positive, lasting historical footprint. Surprisingly, however, Belgraders have chosen to preserve the vestiges of those civilisations that occupied and also ravaged the city.
Former Singidunum
A Celtic tribe first settled Singidun (meaning “round fort”) in the 3rd century BC, on the site of the extant Kalemegdan Fortress. Subsequently, the Roman army arrived and changed the name to Singidunum, which endured until the city became Beograd in the year 878.
Remains of the fort built by the Celtic tribes, as well as some dating from the Roman period, can still be seen in Kalemegdan Park, where the original garrison was sited. Sections of an aqueduct, cisterns and some stretches of the wall stand side by side with an unusual mixture of buildings from different periods, such as those from the Ottoman and the Austro-Hungarian periods, which we will be looking at in a moment.
No fewer than 18 Roman emperors were born in Serbia; no wonder, then, that the Roman legacy still lingers in parts of the country. Notable examples are Viminacium – present-day Kostolac – or Felix Romuliana, situated near the archaeological site of Gamzigrad, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2007.
In Belgrade, the two museums you cannot fail to visit if you want to research the country’s Roman heritage are the Belgrade City Museum and the National Museum of Serbia.
Ottoman Belgrade
Traces of the Ottoman period can be seen in the 15th-century stone paving of Skadarlija, Belgrade’s best known pedestrian precinct in the Bohemian Quarter. Here, things get into full swing at nightfall when the numerous restaurants, taverns and cafés are frequented by Serbians and foreigners alike, eager to taste the cuisine hot off the fire. Notable dishes include sarma (vine leaves stuffed with meat and vegetables), kebab (meat on the skewer) and baklava (the famous confectionery of honey-rolled nuts), liable to transport diners back to Belgrade’s Ottoman past.
Of the 273 mosques that once existed in the city, only the Bajrakli Džamija mosque, dating from 1575, is still standing. Having survived the passage of time, partial destruction and other attacks, it was rebuilt and is now open to Belgrade’s Muslim community.
Several Ottoman vestiges can also be seen in the aforementioned fort in Kalemegdan Park, including the Sahat Tower, with its striking clock, and the Tomb of Silahdar Damat Ali Pasha, housing the remains of the Grand Vizier of the Ottoman Empire and “Conqueror of Morea” (the Byzantine name for the Peloponnese), who ruled from 1713 to 1716.
Belgrade also features a very interesting museum for those wishing to find out more about the city’s Ottoman legacy. This is the Galeriji Fresaka (Gallery of Frescoes), with its exhibition of over 1,300 frescoes, which are actually copies of icons found on Serbian monuments dating from the 11th to the 15th century, some of which are Byzantine in style. Some of the icons have been destroyed in their original location, while others have fallen into disrepair.
Austro-Hungarian Belgrade
Perhaps the entire heritage of Belgrade’s Austro-Hungarian past, which lasted from 1867 to 1919, can be summed up in one word – Zemun. This is the name of an unusual district which did not become part of Serbia until the outbreak of the First World War and which breathes an atmosphere unlike that of any other district in the city.
But the whole ensemble of eclectic art dating from the period 1860 to the late 1920s, in addition to neo-Renaissance historicist architecture, abounds along the pedestrian precinct of Kneza Mihaila, Belgrade’s major thoroughfare and shopping area. Stretching for one kilometre, it features striking mansions from the late 1870s, as well as bookshops, fashion stores, cafés and souvenir stalls where you can soak up the vibrant everyday activity of Belgrade.
Another lively spot in the city, and also a meeting point for Belgraders and foreigners, is Trg Republike (Republic Square), with its emblematic “Horse”. Executed in 1882, this equestrian statue of Mihajlo Obrenović III (Prince Michael) commemorates his expulsion of the Turks. Behind it stands the aforementioned National Museum of Serbia, due to open to the public again in April 2016 as it is currently closed for renovation.
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Text and photographs by Ana Isabel Escriche (Planeta Dunia)
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Dreams of Lava & Ice in the Icelandic Highlands
Iceland is prolific in place-names which are difficult to pronounce, recall and, of course, spell. Landmannalaugar is one of these but, once you have travelled to this oasis nestling in multi-coloured mountains, where spouting thermal springs, sulphurous vapours and fumaroles melt the ice, this musical, fifteen-letter name becomes a simple word you will never forget. On the contrary – each time you utter it, hear it or read it, you will be transported to that natural paradise which has irremediably become part of your very existence.
Landscapes From Another Planet
Here, in this remote spot, which can only be reached in a 4x4 vehicle – in summer, several 4x4 buses ply the route daily from Hella – begins one of the most popular and spectacular hiking trails in the country and, indeed, on the planet.
Officially, it is known as Laugavegur, which translates roughly to “thermal waters route”. It is usually negotiated from north to south for a distance of 56 km as far as Þórsmörk. The hike then continues another 26 km from there to Skógar along a trail known as Fimmvörðuháls. Along this route, which takes from 4 to 6 days, endless scenic surprises await the traveller, from rhyolite mountains with indescribable colours to fields of fumaroles, glaciers and waterfalls, and deserts of lava and active volcanoes.
Accessible Stages
Laugavegur is the most popular stretch of the trail and is divided into four accessible stages of from 12 to 15 km, with stopovers at Hrafntinnusker, Álftavatn, Emstrur and Þórsmörk. Experienced walkers can complete two stages in one go as there are few slopes and the daylight hours are particularly long in the northern summer. Þórsmörk has a station for 4x4 buses so you can take one back to Hella.
Continuing along the Fimmvörðuháls trail from the Þórsmörk valley, the slope becomes steeper and some areas are more exposed and windswept. This stretch can be divided into two spectacular stages with a stopover at the Fimmvörðuháls shelter. This stage is probably one of the most amazing ones in trekking. It takes you past the Mýrdallsjokull and Eyjafjallajokull glaciers, and across a lava field that emerged during the famous 2010 eruption – which grounded so many flights – culminating in a long descent on which you can admire a total of 24 spectacular waterfalls, with the legendary Skógafoss as the final flourish.
Practical Guide
Dates: Open from June to September.
Difficulty: In good weather, the route is easy as far as Þórsmörk, and moderate up to Skógar.
Weather: Weather conditions in the Icelandic Highlands can change drastically in a few hours, even in summer. You should keep checking the weather report at shelters and abide by warnings issued by rangers and the shelter managers.
Navigation: The route is signposted in early summer with yellow stakes placed every few metres. In the event of being overtaken by fog or bad weather, it is useful to have GPS with route tracking. However, bear in mind that the route can vary slightly from year to year, particularly at river crossings.
Gear: Essential to have mountain footwear and warm clothing.
Food: There are no restaurants or grocery stores anywhere along the trail, and they do not serve food in the emergency shelters. However, you can pay for camping or an overnight with a credit card. Thus, you have to be self-sufficient and stock up with all the food you are going to need during the hike (reckon on a minimum of 1 kg per person per day).
A Roof Over Your Head: You need to book in advance to sleep at the shelters along the route. For certain summer dates, this requires booking several months ahead and the trekking agencies usually hog most of the available places.
Camping: There are camping areas around the shelters and they are always pay sites. You don’t need to book ahead, however. Some have showers and rubbish collection. Others only have drinking water and toilets. It is advisable to take a light tent that can withstand strong winds.
Rivers: Avoid crossing rivers at their narrowest point, as that is where they are deepest. You should wear tightly-fitting waterproof sandals to prevent them being ripped off by the current.
Guided Treks: If you prefer to travel light – without having to carry food or camping equipment – want to ensure a reservation in the shelters along the way and enjoy the company of a guide, the specialised agency Tierras Polares covers the whole route in July and August in the course of an 8-day trip, of which six days are spent trekking. Prices from €1,595.
Day Tour All Year Around: You can also visit Landmannalaugar on a Super Jeep Tour. The super jeep is a 4x4 vehicle with oversize tyres which can take you into the Highlands any time of the year, and pick-up is at your hotel in Reykjavik. Price per person: ISK 35,000 (€250).
Venture into the wonderland of the Icelandic Highlands – book your Vueling to Reykjavik here.
Text and photos by Sergio Fernández Tolosa & Amelia Herrero Becker (Con un par de ruedas)
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From sea and mountains
From sea to mountains, Almeria´s cuisine keeps the essence of every little town in the Apujarras, Sierra de los Filabres, Tabernas or Velez. Antique recipes still remains in these little towns. These popular recipes are cooked with the best ingredients collected from their lands and their rich coasts.
Its cuisine is very rich and comprises from amigas, fried potatoes, garlic soup, all kinds of seafood, operettas and paellas, grilled vegetables or the countless tapas route in the capital.
Gurullos and Nijar fish
Gurullos is a tough handmade dough from Muslim heritage made with durum wheat flour, water and salt.In the seaside towns of Almeria, the Gurullos are usually cooked with octopus and cuttlefish.
Let´s taste the best typical dishes from Almeria, made with high quality ingredients in Restaurante La Ola, located in the Isleta del Moro (Little Muslim Island), inside the Cabo de Gata National Park.
There you will enjoy magnificent views of the Mediterranean Sea while waiter serves you fresh fish, sailor casserols, red prawns and paella. Every single ingredient is really fresh, no doubt about it! Because in Restaurante La Ola they have their own fishing boat and the go fishing every day.
Zarzuela in Roquetas de Mar
Roquetas is a very picturesque place that retains the truly essence of the sailor towns and its tradictional fish auction. The supply of fruits and vegetables and also seafood guarantees the quality of its cuisine. To make a good Zarzuela we need to mix fish and seafood like crayfishes, prawns, mussels, clams, lobsters, squids and rockfishes.
Come to any of the port side restaurants, like Restaurante Nido or El Chiringuito de Paco and taste the best fish and zarzuelas.
Sailor stews and red prawns from Garrucha
Garrucha is a sailor village where you can find a hugh variety of good quality fresh fish and seafood. Here, recipes are quite simple but anything else is needed when primary ingredients can bring you to heaven. Red prawn from Garrucha is bigger and has a dipper red color than usual prawn and it is one of the best Mediterranean seafood.
You can find these simple dishes in El Almejero, located in Explanada del Puerto of Garrucha. Ideal to eat the best red mullet and grilled prawns with amazing sea views.
Garden products and fish from El Ejido
Greenhouses vegetables from el Ejido are exported every year to almost the wide world. There is nothing better than taste the Mediterranean healthy recipes in El Ejido, made with the best garden vegetables and excellent seafood.
The best place to enjoy it is La Costa (Avenida Bulevar de El Ejido, 48), an excellent restaurant with one Michelin star where its chef Jose Álvarez provides it with a sofisticated atmosphere.
Almond cake or oil cake from Velez
In Velez, 35 kilometers away from the capital, some varieties of dry fruits like grapes, olives and almonds are grown. This is the reason why its cuisine uses these products in particular.The most typical dessert from Velez is the oil cake, a recipe known for 50 years!
In Almeria
Patatas a lo pobre (poor style potatoes) at El Quinto Toro
Although at first view it seems a simple dish, it is not so easy to get a good dish of poor style potatoes. The recipe is simple with sliced potatoes, onion, oil, white wine and salt and you can eat a very good one at El Quinto Toro, Juan Leal 6 of Almeria.
Migas and some other tapas at Casa Puga
Find a place in La Puga (Jovellanos 7 )and choose from a wide variety of tapas: fried fish, meats, cheese, smoked fish, scrambled garlic, prawns and snails. Maybe La Puga is a little bit more expensive than other establishments in the same area but it is one of the most recognized good tapas place in the city. And don´t forget to ask for somemigas(crumbs)!
The Ajoblanco at La Encina
The garlic soup is a very common snack in Almeria. A thick cream with almonds, garlic, olive oil and vinegar, served with toast spread or as an accompanient to some dishes. Almeria is a land of excellent almonds, so it is used in many recipes.
If you are walking around the city center, taste it at La Encina (Marin, 6), and taste also theis cold raf tomatoe soup, hake pie or marinated sardines.
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