A Walk Through the Clouds
The island of Gran Canaria offers all the rural leisure amenities you can imagine and more, including adventure sports and trekking.
From Sea to Sky
One breathtaking route stretches from the Gran Canaria coast to the top of the island’s highest peak, a secluded spot which is the closest you’ll ever get to a lunar landscape. In the municipality of Tejeda, some 44 km from Las Palmas de Gran Canaria, you can easily find yourself trapped by a sea of clouds. Tejeda can be reached mainly by the Centro GC 15 main road, a somewhat winding route flanked by stunningly beautiful scenery which takes you through the towns of Santa Brígida and Vega de San Mateo. The most exciting part of the journey starts here, as you begin to climb so steeply that the clouds recede below you. The 44-km drive takes about an hour. It can also be reached by public transport from the Guaguas station in Las Palmas de Gran Canaria.
El Roque Bentayga and the Archaeology Park
Tejeda is a must-see if you come to Gran Canaria and more so if you’re interested in archaeology. Here you can find vestiges of burial caves, rock carvings, paintings and dwellings. The Roque Bentayga provides an excellent sampling of all this. This unique, natural rock precinct was sacred to the original inhabitants, as it was here that they prayed to their gods. The Parque Arqueológico del Bentayga is an ecomuseum built next to the Roque. It also serves as a venue for performances, both for the archaeological rock complex (Bentayga, Andén de Tabacalete, Cuevas del Rey and the Roquete) and its surroundings. It also affords wonderful views of the southern and western reaches of the island.
Culture and Mysticism
The symbol of Gran Canaria is also to be found at Tejeda. This is the Roque Nublo, a huge basalt rock in the form of a monolith stretching 70 metres into the air. On its north-eastern side stands another monolithic rock known as El Fraile (the Friar), as it physically resembles a monk. While you’re here, take the chance to roam through the Inagua and Ojeda pine forests and, further north, that of los Pechos, for here you are bound to fall in love with the views.
Art and culture also make their presence felt in Tejeda. Here you can visit the Abraham Cárdenes Sculpture Museum, dedicated to this Canary Island sculptor, who hailed from here, and also the Ethnographic Museum, where you go on a journey of the town’s and the island’s history. Here, too, the Degollada de Becerra is another spot well worth visiting. It is situated on the main road between La Cruz de Tejeda and los Llanos de la Pez, and features a viewpoint affording spectacular scenery and, more importantly, a centre where you can learn about local ethnography. Lastly, the town boasts a Centro de Plantas Medicinales, where you are invited to discover the varieties of plants, herbs and flowers indigenous to Tejeda and the island and their varied use in medicine, religion and cosmetics.
Gastronomy
Establishments in Tejeda centre offer all types of craftwork and you can also find the typical sweets made here. You are also advised to stop at one of the bar terraces and restaurants located on the side of the Parador Nacional, a magnificent vantage point providing spectacular views of the whole island.
Almonds play a major role in the cuisine of Tejeda, a town which has become one of the landmarks of Canary Island confectionery, noteworthy among which are the bienmesabes and marzipans. Both sweets are made using ground almond, the former also being one of the traditional accompaniments of local iced desserts. In Tejeda you can also sample any of the Canary Islands’ traditional dishes, the mainstay of which are beef and goat’s meat. Make sure to try such dishes as the caldos de papas (potato soup) and the potajes de berros y jaramagos (watercress and hedge mustard stews). If you’d like to sample good local cooking, a restaurant you should not miss is the Cueva de la Tea, where you can order a potaje de berros and their speciality, ropa vieja– chick peas, potato, hog’s head, chicken, tomatoes, peppers and onion. The average price per head is 12 euros and the helpings are generous. It also has the advantage of affording spectacular views.
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Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
Images byPatronato de Turismo de Gran Canaria
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Good Morning Ibiza and Good Night!
When it comes to lifestyle, Ibiza is unquestionably one of the world’s hotspots. All celebrities worth their salt make a point of visiting it in summer, but, what can you expect to find there other than between May and October? Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS dropped in on the Balearic pearl to see what brews out of season. We were amazed to discover that it is an ideal getaway for switching off. Ibiza offers the very best of slow tourism – idyllic scenery, trekking routes, fairy-tale villages and the constant friendliness of its inhabitants.
Good Morning, Ibiza!
If you have a penchant for welcoming the dawning day in the finest setting, we recommend you rise early – or stay up – and head for Cala s’Argamassa, very near Santa Eulària. This is definitely the key spot for for experiencing the Ibizan “awakening”.
Now that you’re on track, we suggest you go to the north-east, the most protected and sparsely inhabited part of the island. It is also the wildest, most rugged area and is a must for photography, if you’re looking to capture the essence of the genuine Ibiza. You will come across forests of pine and inaccessible coves. A stroll through the minute – and very quaint – villages would be in order, notably Santa Agnès. On the edge of the village you take the Camí Plade Corona which leads to a fascinating field of almond trees – preferably, in February, when the almond blossom is spectacular.
If you happen to be on the island on a Sunday, a good option for day-tripping is to visit the Sant Joan de Labritja street market with its craft wares. The hippy atmosphere so redolent a few decades ago stills lingers here. The stalls are stocked with goods for all tastes, from Moroccan leather to designer fabrics. We recommend taking a seat in the Restaurante San Juan, as it affords views over all the goings-on in this picturesque street market, which opens from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. The view also takes in the charming Church of San Juan, built in 1770.
From here, you can drive to Portinatx, the island’s northernmost point. On arrival, make sure you have a walk around Punta Galera, Punta des Moscarter, Punta d’en Gat and Cala d’en Serra. Then, the best thing is to return in an eastward direction, which takes you through such charming villages as Sant Miquel de Balansat and Sant Mateu d’Albarca. Their churches are the epitome of Ibizan religious architecture, which harmonises with the traditional stone and lime constructions. The churches are inviting, yet characteristically sober.
Good Night, Ibiza!
One of the most magical moments is dusk. There are sites for all tastes, but the best spot on the island – or, at least, the favourite among the islanders – is Cala d’Hort, a mere 11 km from Sant Josep de sa Talaia. From that point on the coast you can make out the beautiful and enigmatic islets of Es Vedrà, Es Vedranell and Sa Galera, which are said to give off a special energy – UFO sightings have been reported here. This V-shaped inlet is flanked by an open, uneven, rugged coastline with tall surrounding cliffs carpeted with pine and scrub. The beach has medium-grain white sand and mild breezes. The slope is gentle and the waters are crystal-clear, with a sandy seabed. There are three excellent seafood restaurants in the area. Cala d’HortRestaurant and Restaurante El Carmen are on the beach itself, while Es Boldado is accessed via the road running from Sant Josep. Don’t forget to bring along your camera or smartphone to capture the sunset. Here you will find that elusive desktop wallpaper that looks so good on your computer screen.
The other splendid sunset is to be had in Cala Comte. It provides a moving spectacle. People start massing silently along the coast at the prescribed time, generating a sort of ceremonial trance-like atmosphere in which everyone concurs in contemplation and introspection. The picture will undoubtedly leave an indelible mark in your memory.
Once the sun has gone down, it’s time to return to the built-up area for dinner. And, to round off the day, one of the best places to spend the night is the Hotel Simbad, which was completely refurbished in 2007. It’s a 10 minutes’ drive from Ibiza’s historic centre. One of its boons is the panoramic views of the sea and the castle to be had from its rooms. In high season you can also use the swimming pool adjoining the beach, but all year around they have a solarium and wellness centre which includes a heated indoor pool with a waterfall, a jacuzzi, gym, sauna and massage showers.
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Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by Ibiza Travel and Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
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Belgrade In Three Itineraries
In truth, Belgrade has not been fairly treated by history, as the peoples, cultures and religions that passed through the city left more of a trail of destruction than a positive, lasting historical footprint. Surprisingly, however, Belgraders have chosen to preserve the vestiges of those civilisations that occupied and also ravaged the city.
Former Singidunum
A Celtic tribe first settled Singidun (meaning “round fort”) in the 3rd century BC, on the site of the extant Kalemegdan Fortress. Subsequently, the Roman army arrived and changed the name to Singidunum, which endured until the city became Beograd in the year 878.
Remains of the fort built by the Celtic tribes, as well as some dating from the Roman period, can still be seen in Kalemegdan Park, where the original garrison was sited. Sections of an aqueduct, cisterns and some stretches of the wall stand side by side with an unusual mixture of buildings from different periods, such as those from the Ottoman and the Austro-Hungarian periods, which we will be looking at in a moment.
No fewer than 18 Roman emperors were born in Serbia; no wonder, then, that the Roman legacy still lingers in parts of the country. Notable examples are Viminacium – present-day Kostolac – or Felix Romuliana, situated near the archaeological site of Gamzigrad, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2007.
In Belgrade, the two museums you cannot fail to visit if you want to research the country’s Roman heritage are the Belgrade City Museum and the National Museum of Serbia.
Ottoman Belgrade
Traces of the Ottoman period can be seen in the 15th-century stone paving of Skadarlija, Belgrade’s best known pedestrian precinct in the Bohemian Quarter. Here, things get into full swing at nightfall when the numerous restaurants, taverns and cafés are frequented by Serbians and foreigners alike, eager to taste the cuisine hot off the fire. Notable dishes include sarma (vine leaves stuffed with meat and vegetables), kebab (meat on the skewer) and baklava (the famous confectionery of honey-rolled nuts), liable to transport diners back to Belgrade’s Ottoman past.
Of the 273 mosques that once existed in the city, only the Bajrakli Džamija mosque, dating from 1575, is still standing. Having survived the passage of time, partial destruction and other attacks, it was rebuilt and is now open to Belgrade’s Muslim community.
Several Ottoman vestiges can also be seen in the aforementioned fort in Kalemegdan Park, including the Sahat Tower, with its striking clock, and the Tomb of Silahdar Damat Ali Pasha, housing the remains of the Grand Vizier of the Ottoman Empire and “Conqueror of Morea” (the Byzantine name for the Peloponnese), who ruled from 1713 to 1716.
Belgrade also features a very interesting museum for those wishing to find out more about the city’s Ottoman legacy. This is the Galeriji Fresaka (Gallery of Frescoes), with its exhibition of over 1,300 frescoes, which are actually copies of icons found on Serbian monuments dating from the 11th to the 15th century, some of which are Byzantine in style. Some of the icons have been destroyed in their original location, while others have fallen into disrepair.
Austro-Hungarian Belgrade
Perhaps the entire heritage of Belgrade’s Austro-Hungarian past, which lasted from 1867 to 1919, can be summed up in one word – Zemun. This is the name of an unusual district which did not become part of Serbia until the outbreak of the First World War and which breathes an atmosphere unlike that of any other district in the city.
But the whole ensemble of eclectic art dating from the period 1860 to the late 1920s, in addition to neo-Renaissance historicist architecture, abounds along the pedestrian precinct of Kneza Mihaila, Belgrade’s major thoroughfare and shopping area. Stretching for one kilometre, it features striking mansions from the late 1870s, as well as bookshops, fashion stores, cafés and souvenir stalls where you can soak up the vibrant everyday activity of Belgrade.
Another lively spot in the city, and also a meeting point for Belgraders and foreigners, is Trg Republike (Republic Square), with its emblematic “Horse”. Executed in 1882, this equestrian statue of Mihajlo Obrenović III (Prince Michael) commemorates his expulsion of the Turks. Behind it stands the aforementioned National Museum of Serbia, due to open to the public again in April 2016 as it is currently closed for renovation.
I bet you hadn’t thought of a city like this! Why wait to discover it for yourself? Check out our flights here.
Text and photographs by Ana Isabel Escriche (Planeta Dunia)
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Stockholm in 6 Culinary Styles
Without even having to leave the city, you can get a good idea of the culinary gems that attest to the potential of Nordic cuisine. In Stockholm, excellent avant-garde cuisine weds “bistronomies” and gastrobars with oodles of character. Depending on the style you’re after and how much you want to spend, here are six culinary lines in Stockholm which bear out the city’s gastronomic vigour.
Gastrologik Avant-garde
The moment you take a seat, you will find a menu waiting for you on the table. But, instead of a list of dishes, this is a statement of intent and attention, in a restaurant that takes care of the finest details. Avant-garde cuisine in a succession of bites strictly in season, asserting the wealth of local produce, pampered from source by the chef duo of Jacob Holmstrom and Anton Bjuhr. Algae, indigenous fish and alluring natural rarities are the highlights of a unique gastronomic experience.
Ekstedt Authenticity
Warmed by hot coals, the restaurant run by the popular Niklas Ekstedt has made its mark by creating a highly personal culinary line which the chef rounds off a few metres away in the guise of another, more “casual” business. Brilliant cuisine over the fire, in dishes which take shape before the diner’s eyes. I can highly recommend going for the room’s imperial table, even if you have to share it. Watch your bread being baked and brought warm to the table; be spellbound by the flames in surprising, ongoing flambé surges, as with the oyster flambé; savour the singularities of Swedish produce, rigorously executed and served up with gusto… All this is Ekstedt – a genuine yet unusual restaurant.
The Plenitude of Lilla Ego
The queues at the entrance to Lilla Ego before each sitting are a constant feature. Here, the emphasis is on the informal offerings based on sturdy market fare. Dessert helpings are a tad oversize and dishes are presented rather haphazardly, while the extensive wine list and pairings are bold. You can watch them cooking from the bar counter, as well as observe the various steps involved in preparing dishes, something outside the scope of the table diners. A feature of this venue is the upbeat atmosphere, both at lunch and dinner.
The Warmth of Babette
You don’t need to be invited to see the kitchen for, as soon as you step inside, it is the first thing you see and almost stumble over, as well as hands-on chefs who frantically ply their wares. Pizzas, salads and sautés based on fresh produce are the standout traits of the dishes in this venue, where you will feel at home among the books and various seating arrangements. As in all restaurants, it is best to book in advance to secure your place on the terrace. It opens every day of the week, which is unusual in this city’s hospitality sector.
The Freshness of Kaffeverket
There are so many cafés in Stockholm that you would be hard put to choose just one – or even two or three. But Kaffeverket has that enveloping atmosphere which ends up cajoling you into whiling away the hours there. Even locals recommend it. Offerings in the spacious interior, which looks onto an inner patio, with high tables and stools – and low ones, too – include one-course meals, sandwiches and top-notch homemade pastries, with options for vegans and celiacs, too. The friendliness of their staff is another point in their favour.
Where to Sleep, Breakfast and Vice Versa – Miss Clara
This boutique hotel is ideal for staying at a place with endless sky views, but also for having breakfast in the purest Swedish style, just a stone’s throw away from the shopping hub. If you have time on your hands and you fancy it, you can opt for a brunch, with cocktails and DJ music or jazz, or else sip a drink on their large pavement terrace in the heart of the city.
Still intact in this erstwhile convent are the Art Deco foundations, which blend in with an elegant and equally cosy interior design.
HTL Upplandsgatan
It is ultramodern and highly functional. With its designer hostel appearance and B&B down-to-earthness, you will appreciate the splendid location of this hotel in the city’s major shopping district, as well as its price and more than adequate breakfast buffet.
Book your Vueling to Stockholm and discover their gastronomic variety.
By Belén Parra of Gastronomistas.com
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