The Best Pizzerias in Naples
The earliest available document bearing mention of the word “pizza” dates from the year 997 and was unearthed in the town of Gaeta. Originally derived from the breads made by the ancient Greeks and Egyptians, it was the Spanish settlers of Naples who added its typical tomato base in the 16th century. However, it was in 1889 that the master pizza maker, Raffaele Esposito, created the pizza Magherita in honour of the thus-named Queen of Italy and the formula stuck. There is no corner of the world where pizza is not eaten, but the Naples variety – the vera pizza, baked in a wood-fired oven– is still the best. If you visit the Partenopea city, these are the pizzerias we recommend you head for when feeling peckish.
Brandi
Legend has it that Raffaele Esposito, the chef at the Pizzeria di Pietro e Basta Cosi, created the pizza margheritain 1889. Made as a tribute to the Queen of Italy, it was topped with tomato, mozzarella and basil to produce the colours of the Italian flag and soon became the pizza par excellence of Naples. The restaurant in question is now called Brandi and it still serves one of the tastiest pizzas in town, in addition to the star dishes of Neapolitan cuisine in which fish and seafood figure prominently.
Da Attilio
Opened in 1938, this venue is where Attilio Bachetti (grandson) continues to make one of the best pizzas in Naples. In an out-of-the-way spot in one of the most traditional quarters, Da Attilio serve up some of the most innovative creations in town, notably the pizza carnevale, a scrumptious base covered with tomato, mozzarella and sausages, and the edges filled in with ricotta cheese.
Da Gennaro
In 1959, Gennaro Cristiano closed down his fried fish street stall and opened his own restaurant, thus starting one of the most celebrated pizza-making lineages in Naples. One of the must-try eats on the menu at Da Gennaro is their endless half-a-metre-long pizza, and, even more so, their farfalla, a butterfly-shaped pizza with a filled centre and a guest’s choice two-flavour addition on the wings. Via Plinio 21
Da Michele
Master pizza makers since 1870, their history and the quality of their offerings is inversely proportional to the length of their menu. Da Michele serve only two kinds of pizza – the traditional classic, margherita,and the marinara, based on tomato, garlic, oregano and oil. While the choice is extremely narrow, the quality is excellent. If theirs is not the best pizza in Naples, it certainly comes close to it.
Di Matteo
In July 1994, Naples hosted the G7 Summit, during which the US President at the time, Bill Clinton, felt like a pizza. He duly fulfilled his desire by visiting Di Matteo, and his was a good choice. It is so popular among Neapolitans that rarely is there a day without guests having to queue up. When your turn comes, be sure to order their magnificent fried pizza, or else a margherita,which really explodes on the palate.
Il Pizzaiolo Del Presidente
The Via dei Tribunali, in the heart of Naples’ historic centre, must be the street with the highest density of essential pizzerias in the world. In the consequent list of restaurants, Il Pizzaiolo Del Presidente should be set in capitals and highlighted in fluorescent marker. In the colours and aromas of their pizzas you will discover the finest essences of the traditional Neapolitan pizza.
La Notizia
Don’t be deceived by its apparent simplicity – at La Notizia the margherita is a pleasure on the taste buds. Perched on the hill overlooking Spaccanapoli, the ride to the pizzeria by funicular railway is a veritable happening. A sublimated experience once you have sat down and started biting into their exquisite creation baked in a wood-fired oven, their tomato, mozzarella and fresh basil combined in perfect harmony.
Pellone
Tradition has it that pellone is the joy experienced when your pizza has a diameter that overspills the circumference of the plate it is served on. This venue is a winning bet for both epicures and insatiable diners. Heirs to the family tradition, the De Luca brothers – Mimmo, Franco and Antimo – have drawn praise and even reverence from leading connoisseurs for their pizza margherita,the marinara and the house speciality, fried calzone with ricotta and an escarole filling.
Sorbillo
For many, the charismatic celebrity, Gino Sorbillo, grandson of the pizzaiolo, Luigi Sorbillo, the first in the line of the family pizza-makers, is the current king of Neapolitan pizzas, Baked in a wood-fire oven and massive in size, it would be a sin to pass up their marinara. It you’re still hungry after that, for dessert let yourself be tempted by their semifreddo, which is simply superb.
Starita
Cinema lovers may well be familiar with this eatery, as it served as the backdrop to The Gold of Naples, a classic by Vittorio De Sica in which the main stars are the stunning pair, Silvana Mangano and Sophia Loren. Opened in 1901 as a wine cellar by Antonio Starita, his grandson, also named Antonio Starita, has gradually consolidated it as one of the most lauded pizzerias in the city of Vesuvius.
Text by Oriol Rodríguez for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by yashima, Bex Walton
more infoZürich – A Box Filled With Chocolates
“It turns out that in 1917, Einstein, Lenin and Joyce coincided in Zürich.There, Einstein lectured at the ETH, Lenin busied himself preparing the Russian revolution, while Joyce wrote Ulysses. The city is growing on me every day.”
These lines were posted in the Facebook profile of a Spanish friend living in Switzerland’s largest city. She also writes, and is somewhat revolutionary. She doesn’t lecture, that we know of, but it’s early days still. What is such a Mediterranean girl doing in a place like that? The moment we arrived there we had our answer. You can enjoy the vibrant cultural scene, its restaurants, its lake, the river Limmat, its parks, the silence and its modest size as cities go, meaning you can cross it by tram, or be tempted to cycle or walk around it.
Did you know that what the Swiss miss most when they travel is bread? That the owner of the legendary Café Odeon was able to build it thanks to the money he won on the Spanish lottery? That muesli was invented by the physician, Maximilian Bircher-Benner, from Zürich University, and that the historic Opfelchammer restaurant, a favourite of the local novelist, Gottfried Keller, allow you to carve your name on the beams if you drink enough wine? You imagine there is a luxurious city awaiting you, having forgotten that the Protestant Reformation started precisely here 500 years ago and that all ostentation was banned. Like filled chocolates, Zürich holds out surprises. You never know what you’re likely to come across.
Zürichis not an economical destination, but there are ways of reining in your expenditure. Before setting out to discover the city, buy a ZürichCARD. It permits you to catch the train from the airport to the city, where you can take all the tram lines and gain free (or discounted) entry to over 90 establishments.
If you fancy dining at a traditional – yet modern – spot, make sure you head for Haus Hiltl, Europe’s longest surviving vegetarian restaurant, dating from 1898. It offers a buffet with a choice of over 100 specialities – you pay according to how much you fill your plate – in addition to a bookshop, store, culinary studio and bar lounge.
If you’re into the eclectic, you should drop in on Les Halles, an erstwhile warehouse which doubles as a restaurant and market and is famous for its moules frites (mussels with fries). There, you can also buy and eat sausage, cheeses, wines and other delicacies from the old Europe.
If you prefer to dine in a formal atmosphere, make your way to La Salle. They serve a fine steak tartare, various fresh pasta dishes and a classic, homemade meat pie with red wine and mashed potato sauce which you really must try.
You can while your way into the night at numerous bars and clubs, such as the Nietturm Bar, located on the top floor above La Salle. This stylish locale serves the Hugo cocktail (prosecco, elderflower syrup, sparkling water, mint, lime and ice), or you could order a glass of local Zürich wine while taking in the breathtaking views over the city.
If the weather turns nasty or you’re numbed by the cold, go on a cruise around Lake Zurich. And, while you’re at it, enjoy a Swiss brunch – with cheese, bread, salmon, jam, fruit and pastries – while vineyards and fairytale houses parade before your eyes as you drift soothingly along. The brunch-cruise only operates on Sundays and you must book beforehand through Zürichsee Schifffahrt.
If, on the contrary, what you fancy is hoofing it as much as you can, go for their street food. You can wolf down the sausages at Sternen Grill, a hot soup at La Zoupa and marroni (roast chestnuts) at the street stalls. If your stay takes in more than just the weekend, make sure you try their looped pretzels and the other bäckerei (bakery) specialities in season at Vohdin (Oberdorfstrasse, 12), a shop front that has been open since 1626.
If you can afford it, take up lodgings on the 10th floor of the Sheraton Zürich Hotel, located in Zürich–West, the in district. The rooms are spacious, bright and comfortable; wifi is free-of-charge and there are two culinary options – the Route Twenty-Six restaurant (from the 26 Swiss cantons), featuring sumptuous breakfast buffets, and the Café & Bar Nuovo,ideal for afternoon coffee or a nighttime Qüollfrisch naturtrüb beer.
If you fancy bringing back a genuine souvenir in your suitcase, head for a local supermarket and get yourself a mini fondue of Gerber cheese and a bag of Frey chocolates, two historic brands that will sit sweet on the palate. Although – be warned – it will never be the same as having a fondue at Adler’s Swiss Chuchi or hot chocolate at Péclard.
Make haste and savour the Swiss delights of Zürich! Check out our flights here.
Text by Carme Gasull (Gastronomistas)
Photos by Mireia Aranda and Zurich Tourism
Travel and Food With Kids in Marrakech
Marrakech is mayhem and no one who has set foot in that Moroccan city will ever claim otherwise. It’s a happy form of bedlam for those who like excitement, but a stressful and terribly unpredictable place for those who like to exercise strict control. We advise the latter to take a Vueling to Zurich with their family and enjoy the placid feeling of a place where everything works and a scrumptious fondue is easy to come by. As for the rest of you – we recommend you follow us on this fantastic adventure.
Marrakech is the sort of place where someone accosts you every three steps you take, touting to sell you something or lead you to someone’s shop, offer you a guided tour of the city, drape a snake around your neck, tattoo you, make you an orange juice, walk with you and his monkey – which he wants you to hold by the hand – or fill your bag with perfumes, spices, soaps and beautiful decorative objects that appear to have leaped out of A Thousand and One Nights. All this happens as you dodge to avoid horse-drawn carts rolling to the cry of “Cheap carriage ride, María”, donkeys and other fauna that throng the streets, as you have your photo taken with a chameleon, visit palaces that until then were just a figment of your imagination and chatter about the latest exploits of Barça with men of all ages who cross your path.
This Moroccan city is pure magic, a delightful, fascinating chaos with whiffs of spice and mint tea – sometimes of horse dung, too, but, what the heck! – where any adventure lover is bound to have a whale of a time. And, who better than children to imbibe such a place, different from anything they’ve ever seen before, and abandon themselves to the stream of outlandish characters and situations that will punctuate their stay in Marrakech and make it unforgettable.
The first place the young ones are going to be infatuated with is Jemaa el Fna Square, the nerve centre of the Medina, where one of the most enchanting gastronomic festivals in the world strikes up as night falls. The smell of delicious spicy meat starts to waft out from the street stalls, and of hummus, couscous, tajine, salads and other specialities, sold for a sou. Some are reluctant to sit down to a table in that street market for fear of food poisoning, contaminated water and possible adverse effects on their digestive system. But, just by making sure the cutlery is clean and dry, and avoiding raw food, you can take part in an extravaganza that even Sublimotion can’t touch.
The same square has numerous restaurants with a view, providing angles to gawk at the ongoing revelry in Jemaa el Fna. One of our favourites is Aqua (68 Jemaa el Fna); their top-floor terrace affords privileged views of the square and the homemade Moroccan food is quite good. They also have pasta, pizza, sandwiches and other international dishes, which is great if you want to get away from local cuisine for a day.
We press on with the family gastro route through Marrakech and sit down to a table at a venue which is marvellously unclassifiable – Clock Cafe, one of the few hipster eateries in town, a spot which could be in London or Berlin but has nevertheless retained its Arab essence. Prices here border on those in Europe, their piped music is indie pop, their chairs are yellow, the walls are scrawled with graffiti and they serve a brilliant chicken and caramelised onion couscous, although the kids are more likely to go for the camel hamburgers, one of the star performers of the house. If the weather is cold – which it might be during the Marrakech winter – their fireplace will be your best friend.
Another spot well worth stopping off at is Nid’Cigogne (60 Place des Tombeaux Saadiens), a spacious, three-storey restaurant next door to the Saadian Tombs where the children can have fun with the cats roaming the terrace, enjoy the simple dishes, ranging from sandwiches to Moroccan stews, and take a break for a few hours from the incessant bustle of Marrakech. The service is friendly and, as is the case throughout this fairy-tale city, children are always welcome and are treated kindly, respectfully and effusively.
Lastly, while your options are endless, do make a point of having tea in the pretty Marrakech Henna Art Cafe, where you can get a henna tattoo and taste their little pastries while you wait. You can also dive into a delicious snack of hummus and vegetable couscous at a reasonable price, and pick up some of the souvenirs on sale inside.
Armed with a basketful of craftwork, spices, soaps, multi-coloured babouches and thousands of unforgettable memories, you will have enjoyed a family experience filled with hours of laughter and a stream of wonderful stories to tell. Well, where else in the world are you likely to come across a serious-looking character dressed in a djellaba who stops your little boy in the street and calls out, “Hello, little Nicholas!”. Book your Vueling to Marrakech and get ready to live out the experience for yourself.
Text and photos by Laura Conde of Gastronomistas.com
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Local Food Minorca – a Walk Through the Island’s Flavours
I could spend hours singing the praises of this wonderful Balearic island, but these lines are dedicated to its gastronomic facet, its rich larder and its restaurants. Among the preparatory tasks all travellers should undertake is to research the flavours they are likely to encounter at their destination. Experiencing tourism on one’s palette is a way of coming to grips with local culture.
Thus, Minorca cannot be fully grasped without accounting for its cheeses (DO – Queso de Mahón-Menorca). They are hand crafted using cloth, and painted with oil and red pepper. Drop in on cheese factories like S’Arangi (Es Mercadal) or Son Mercer de Baix (Ferreries). Likewise, their sausage: carn i xulla (raw and cured lean pork and bacon), sobrasada, botifarró (blood sausage) and camot/cuixot/camaiot (similar to botifarró, but stuffed in skin). And, needless to say, their Gin Xoringuer, a traditional distillation that goes into the making of pomada and gin amb llimonada. Also de rigueur are their wines which, after a merely cursory presence at the beginning, are experiencing a sweet resurgence under the label “Vi de la terra Illa de Menorca”. The stores of El Paladar offer some fine examples of all kinds of local produce.
And, don’t forget to try some of the wines at Hort de Sant Patrici, Sa Forana, Binifadet… whenever you sit down to any of their tables. They are highly distinct from one another, from creative cuisine to jam-packed menus, but they all have one thing in common – a desire to offer local produce and dishes of yesteryear that are still current today.
Binifadet – Among Vineyards
Sign up for a guided tour, purchase some wine and enjoy a hearty breakfast on your morning jaunt in Sant Lluís, hard by Mahón. Local cheeses, toast with sobrasada and wine marmalade, carré (spare ribs of lamb) and fresh white hake.
Biniarroca – Among Gardens
A charming rural hotel in Sant Lluís with a restaurant among the most highly recommended on the island. During the day, their porch and gardens are areas where time stands still to the warmth of a cup of coffee. By night, the setting is cuisine based on Minorcan produce with fine service. The accommodation is a wise choice – you will feel very much at home.
Terra Bistró – In the Harbour
This establishment has been open for just one year. It is based on well presented, locally sourced produce and dishes, set in cosy premises and at reasonable prices. Try the botifarró with onion confit and tomato jam, or black calamari and mussel rice. Go for a table on their terrace, and make sure you order one of their homemade desserts.
Rías Baixas and Loar – a Break on the Journey
We stopped off at Ferreries, on the road to Ciutadella. We had heard of a restaurant which combines the best Galician seafood with Minorcan cuisine – Rías Baixas. An ad hoc feast based on fried fish (sea and vegetables), mussels and aubergines stuffed with prawns. Stewed lobster and delicious sweets. Also scrumptious is the menu of the day at the Cala Galdana del Hotel Loar restaurant, where locals pack the tables for lunch each day to savour the island’s traditional fare. À la carte is also available. Comfortable accommodation if you fancy spending the night inland.
Mon – Felip Llufriú and Guillem Pons’ Personal Enterprise
We reached Ciutadella and were blown away first by the cuisine, and then by the locale. The project was once housed in Can Faustino. A quiet establishment with views of the kitchen where you can savour such dishes as marinated rock fish on melba toast and escalibada (smoky grilled aubergine), crawfish in three portions – pincers tartare, ceviche (lemon-and-garlic marinade) of the tail, and soup with the heads – or local cochinillo (suckling pig) with bitter orange and pungents obrasada. Creativity and produce. Indispensable. (Passeig de San Nicolau, 4 - Tel. 971381718.)
Ses Voltes – Casual Roof Terrace in the Heart of Ciutadella
For those seeking a fine cuisine alternative at good prices and for all tastes. Here they feature a huge menu of salads, pasta, rice, meat and fish and an interesting pizza section. They also offer local dishes such as scrambled eggs with sobrasada and milhojas de cuixot.
Torralbenc – Haute Cuisine with the Paco Morales Signature
A privileged spot, a rewarding peace, splendid cuisine. At Torralbenc you can fly on the wings of a royale of cured Mahón cheese – a mysterious and tasty perfect-imperfect – steak tartare and a dessert called “orange” which makes you cry. Great wines and great service.
Further Suggestions for Sleeping… and Continuing to Eat
The Artiem hotels (Audax, Carlos III and Capri), part of a sustainability project called Aportam! were founded with the concerted aim of providing local produce among their culinary offerings. Having ensaimadas and local sponge cake for breakfast, and homemade sausage for dinner, is a real luxury.
For something more rural, Sant Ignasi lies just a stone’s throw away from Ciutadella. They also feature an interesting restaurant concept and a stunning terrace where you can have a relaxing breakfast with a big variety of homemade jams.
We wind up the journey and the day having a drink to a DJ rhythm on the spectacular roof terrace at the Barceló Hamilton in Es Castell, a hotel for those seeking an “adults only” option with views of the Mediterranean.
I bet we have dispelled any doubts you may have had. Check out our flights here.
Text by Silvia Artaza of Gastronomistas.com
Images bySilvia Artazaand establishments
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