Bordeaux – 10 Essentials in the Wine Capital
Scarcely an hour’s flight away from Barcelona, Bordeaux is the perfect spot for a short getaway. This is an “easy” city to visit – it’s small, pedestrianised centre invites you to stroll among its stone buildings which exude the same leisurely character as its inhabitants. Well-pleased with its wines, its new Herzog & de Meuron stadium, its future venue as the City of Wine Civilizations and the advent of Joël Robuchon (with his 26 Michelin stars, next after La Grande Maison), Bordeaux gives off its touristic charm nonchalantly, in its defining elegant, bourgeois fashion. Here are some gourmet guide pointers:
1. L’Intendant – A Stunning Wine Shop
Four storeys linked by an architectural spiral staircase houses some 15,000 bottles and 600 epitomes of Bordeaux wine. The ground floor contains the labels of small producers, while the most expensive ones are accommodated on the top floor. The dearest of all – Yquem, at €6,000. Here are some good wines for far less – just allow yourself to be guided by the experts.
2. Taste Initiation at Le Boutique Hotel Wine Bar
The bar à vins (wine bar) at this charming, 27-room hotel offers excellent tastings for venturing into the world of French wines, and their sommelier, Martín Santander, speaks Spanish to wit. His “Tour de France” blind wine tasting features five bottles, prompting guests to ascertain the different French types and varieties. This is the only venue in the city that specialises in natural wines.
3. Where to Have Some Wine – the CIVBBar à Vins
The headquarters of the Conseil Interprofessionnel des Vins de Bordeaux boasts a wonderful wine bar. The bar counter dates from the 19th century and the stained-glass windows from the 20th, while the design is 21st century. You can only order wine by the glass from the wine list, at very reasonable prices – most average between €2 and €3.50, with the odd €8 option from among the Grand Cru.
4. Alliance in a Fashionable Restaurant – Garopapilles
Designer wines and cuisine in one. The chef, Tanguy Laviale, and the wine connoisseur, Gaël Morand, hold out promise of a great experience in this pretty locale, where food and drink form an inseparable tandem. The wine bar is in the entrance, while the intimate, magical restaurant is concealed at the back. In a sole, surprise, deftly combined tasting menu, the chef deploys his imagination in dishes such as foie gras on a bed of cabbage and shiitake, or velvet crab consommé. Highly recommendable haute cuisine sans tablecloth. The menu, without wine, works out at €32 at lunchtime and €62 for dinner.
5. The Best Fish – Le Petit Commerce
A fish restaurant and genuine bistro, unpretentious but with the sort of French charm that captivates. What’s more, here the lunch menu costs just €14. The cuisine of the restauranteur, Fabien Touraille, has become so popular that, with his three restaurants, he’s taken over Parlament Saint Pierre street. His goal – to popularise fish; his fish is even good on Mondays.
6. Hipster Organics – Darwin
These once derelict barracks have been transformed into a top-notch complex of sustainable, creative co-working firms, a large organic restaurant, a sports centre and soon… an eco-lodge.
7. Tempting Chocolateries – Saunion, Cadiot-Badie, La Maison Darricau
It is worth visiting at least these three vintage localities for their great chocolatier tradition – at Saunion, do try Le Gallien (caramel and praliné) and the Guinettes (fresh cherries with alcohol syrup and fondant). A speciality of Cadiot-Badie is Le Diamant Noir (grape ganache), in addition to chocolate shoes and wine bottles which make the perfect souvenir. At La Maison Darricau, don’t miss out on the Pavé (praliné, wine, sugar and cinnamon).
8. The Canelé Tradition – Baillardran
A typically Bordelais confectionery made of flour, egg yolk and vanilla which is crunchy on the outside and smooth inside. The Baillardran chain, which you’ll come across everywhere, makes them on a daily basis.
9. Hotel, Drinks and Brunch – Mamma Shelter
The affordable design chain, which has the famous Philippe Starck as a partner, features a hotel in the centre of Bordeaux. An excellent choice for accommodation; otherwise, at least drop in and have a drink in this locale at night, or brunch on Sunday – it is very cool and all the rage. Rooms from €69.
10. Street Food – Chartrons Market
This open-air market is held every Sunday on the banks of the Garonne. You have a large choice of food stalls where you can have a casual meal. Our favourite were the oyster stalls, where the price was €6.50 for half a dozen oysters.
The Bordeaux Tourist Office organises excursions to some of the quaint viticultural châteaux, as well as other activities.
Come and discover Bordeaux for yourself! Check out our flights here.
Text by Isabel Loscertales / Gastronomistas
Photos by Isabel Loscertales / Gastronomistas
more infoThe Historic Centre of Malaga
The streets of Malaga are home to a special kind of charm and warmth. To stroll through the centre of the city is a chance to see streets full of history and to discover numerous points of interest within close proximity of one another. One of these places is the pretty cream-coloured façade and plant pot-adorned balconies of the hidden-away Pasaje Chinitas, which evokes the past and is home to the legendary Café Cantante de Chinitas. This place was once frequented by bullfighters, writers and poets such as Federico García Lorca.
The Café de Chinitas was a scandalous and the most famous “singer’s café” in Malaga, known for the artistic and traditional performances that took place between 1857 and 1937. Due to its enormous popularity, the alleyway in which it was located still bears its name and the verse of Federico García Lorcapay tribute to it thus:
At Café de Chinitas, Paquiro said to his brother: “I am braver than you, more bullfighter and more Gypsy”. He took out his watch saying: “This bull must die before half past four.”
The name was recovered by the famous Restaurante Chinitas, which bases its culinary offer on shellfish, meat, ham and typical dishes from Malaga, such as the fritura malagueña (fried fish platter) or the arroz caldoso con bogavante (lobster with creamy rice).
Nearby, you can also find the Bodega Quitapenas, which first opened in 1880 and specialises in fish and shellfish, such as fried octopus, squid, baby squid, cuttlefish, cod, fish roe, prawns and razor clams, or the excellent tortilla de camarones (shrimp omelette) that they wash down with local wines.
The Taberna Trillo is one of the oldest restaurants in the old part of Malaga, with its delicious specialities of codballs in courgette sauce, goat’s liver and onion, battered sea nettle and Iberian meat stuffed with chorizo and pepper ali-oli sauce. A truly luxurious way to discover the local gastronomy.
Only a few metres away, Malaga Cathedral soars into the sky. This is one of the most valuable Renaissance gems to be found in Andalusia. The Basílica de la Encarnación is popularly referred to by the name of la Manquita because it was never finished. Its artistic treasures include a piece of the Divino Morales, a sculpture of the Virgen de los Dolores de Pedro de Mena, others of Andrea del Sarto and Van Dyck and various paintings by Niño de Guevara.
Continuing north, you will come to Calle Calderería where the Taberna Mitjada can be found. This central and busy place has enormous barrels in the square that give it a rustic feel. They serve rolls, toasted bread, fried fish and other dishes with sweet Pedro Ximénez wine, the very essence of this bar. Dating from the early 19th century elaborate wrought iron work decorating the windows is worthy of note.
Very close by, at the Gibralfaro, they serve generous portions of fried fish, aubergines in honey and battered fish at very good prices. Of course, that’s if you don’t mind smelling of fried fish for the rest of the day.
In the pretty Plaza de la Merced, you will find the Picasso House-Museum. Located in the Palacio de Buenavista, a 16th Century building that has been declared a National Monument, this museum houses more than 280 works by the artist (including paintings, sculptures, drawings and engravings). The twelve galleries of the Picasso Museum include works by the artist from when he was only 13 years old to his most famous creations, from cubism to his so-called “blue period”.
At the base of the hill on which can be found the Alcazaba castle, Calle Alcazabilla is home to the oldRoman Theatre of Malaga. It remained buried for centuries until it was uncovered in 1951. It can be visited for free throughout the year.
The Alcazaba and the Castillo de Gibralfaro together form a walled fortress and one of the most beautiful places in the city. From the Gibralfaro tower, it is possible to enjoy some magnificent views of the city of Malaga.
Finally, Calle Cervantes is home to the Restaurante el Refectorium. Its delicious dishes are based on shellfish, meat, vegetables and salads. The place has become rightly famous and the restaurant offers some lovely views of the entire Malaga bay.
Picture by paolotrabattoni.it
Why not take a trip to Málaga? Have a look at our flights here!
more info
Bilbao is in fashion
By Tensi Sánchez from actitudesmgz.com
t gives me great pleasure to debut as a writer for My Vueling City and, naturally, my first post is about Bilbao. Without boasting or bragging too much, it must be said that no other European city has anything of which “My City” could be envious of. See for yourself as you read on.
Bilbao has been able to reinvent itself to an extent that few other European cities have achieved. In less than fifteen years, Bilbao has gone from being an industrial city to a city where the focus is on services, and the constant change continues to this day.
There is no surprise then that the majority of large international companies have set up shop in Bilbao; the regional capital of Biscay. Bilbao can also claim to have put itself on the map as an architectural benchmark.
Residents and visitors alike can enjoy a highly varied lifestyle that includes a great combination of the modern, the traditional, good food and shopping.
Just one weekend is time enough to immerse yourself Bilbao’s lifestyle. Here are a few suggestions about my favourite places in the city.
Everybody knows that good food abounds in these lands and this is precisely one of the strengths in Bilbao. Restaurants can be found dotted all over the city and cater to a wide range of culinary tastes. Exploring the many options is a delight for all the senses as you are seduced by the cuisine and often spectacular visual treats.
Here are some great examples: Un Señor de Bilbao, La Cuchara de Valentina, Nerua, La chuleta sin espina and Shibui, the latter being the only place in the city to offer haute cuisine, Japanese-style.
Bilbao is also the perfect city for trend setters and trend followers. A clear example of mixing the modern and the traditional can be found at Enkarterri Concept Store; clothes, furniture and food, all franked by the Basque label.
When talking about fashion and design, I must mention Persuade, the quintessential temple to avant-garde fashion and, dare I say it, the most amazing shop I have ever seen in my whole life ( although not suitable for all budgets), and Shopa, which specialises in design, clothes, books, wine and much more, is located inside the iconic La Alhóndiga leisure building and was designed from start to finish by French industrial designer, Philippe Starck.
And finally Lu:la, Narata, Serie B, Charada, Cultto and Ah Moda are shops that exude fresh and different fashion.
After a hectic morning of shopping, treat yourself to brunch in Plaza Nueva in the old town. You cannot come to Bilbao and leave without trying the famous Basque pintxos! Just take a short walk and you’ll see for yourself that there are countless bars just waiting to be discovered.
Visiting one of the many contemporary art galleries is another option but Epelde y Mardaras is undoubtedly the most peculiar. Located in an enormous flat dating back to 1840 with the chance to order lunch or dinner, it really is an incredible experience.
For vintage style at its purest, go to Almoneda Campos – an intriguing shop full of all kinds of items from times gone by. However, if you’re looking for something more exclusive and modern in terms of decoration and design, I have two excellent suggestions: Urbana 15 and Mosel.
Enjoying a carefully-prepared evening drink is a must in this city. My favourites are to be had at Corto Maltes, La Gallina Ciega, El txoko de Gabi and, of course, on the terrace at Hotel Domine with those marvellous and unbeatable views of the Guggenheim Museum – the perfect place to round off an evening in Bilbao.
And if that’s not enough for you, there is always an online agenda of cultural and leisure activities happening in Bilbao, ilovebilbao.com. I recommend you sign up for free before planning a trip to Bilbao because it will help you find information about everything that is going on, up to a week in advance.
Vueling offers a large selection of connections to the city so there is no excuse for not planning your “perfect weekend”. Bilbao is in Fashion… ¿What are you waiting for? Book your flight now!
By Tensi Sánchez from actitudesmgz.com
more infoThe Best Pizzerias in Naples
The earliest available document bearing mention of the word “pizza” dates from the year 997 and was unearthed in the town of Gaeta. Originally derived from the breads made by the ancient Greeks and Egyptians, it was the Spanish settlers of Naples who added its typical tomato base in the 16th century. However, it was in 1889 that the master pizza maker, Raffaele Esposito, created the pizza Magherita in honour of the thus-named Queen of Italy and the formula stuck. There is no corner of the world where pizza is not eaten, but the Naples variety – the vera pizza, baked in a wood-fired oven– is still the best. If you visit the Partenopea city, these are the pizzerias we recommend you head for when feeling peckish.
Brandi
Legend has it that Raffaele Esposito, the chef at the Pizzeria di Pietro e Basta Cosi, created the pizza margheritain 1889. Made as a tribute to the Queen of Italy, it was topped with tomato, mozzarella and basil to produce the colours of the Italian flag and soon became the pizza par excellence of Naples. The restaurant in question is now called Brandi and it still serves one of the tastiest pizzas in town, in addition to the star dishes of Neapolitan cuisine in which fish and seafood figure prominently.
Da Attilio
Opened in 1938, this venue is where Attilio Bachetti (grandson) continues to make one of the best pizzas in Naples. In an out-of-the-way spot in one of the most traditional quarters, Da Attilio serve up some of the most innovative creations in town, notably the pizza carnevale, a scrumptious base covered with tomato, mozzarella and sausages, and the edges filled in with ricotta cheese.
Da Gennaro
In 1959, Gennaro Cristiano closed down his fried fish street stall and opened his own restaurant, thus starting one of the most celebrated pizza-making lineages in Naples. One of the must-try eats on the menu at Da Gennaro is their endless half-a-metre-long pizza, and, even more so, their farfalla, a butterfly-shaped pizza with a filled centre and a guest’s choice two-flavour addition on the wings. Via Plinio 21
Da Michele
Master pizza makers since 1870, their history and the quality of their offerings is inversely proportional to the length of their menu. Da Michele serve only two kinds of pizza – the traditional classic, margherita,and the marinara, based on tomato, garlic, oregano and oil. While the choice is extremely narrow, the quality is excellent. If theirs is not the best pizza in Naples, it certainly comes close to it.
Di Matteo
In July 1994, Naples hosted the G7 Summit, during which the US President at the time, Bill Clinton, felt like a pizza. He duly fulfilled his desire by visiting Di Matteo, and his was a good choice. It is so popular among Neapolitans that rarely is there a day without guests having to queue up. When your turn comes, be sure to order their magnificent fried pizza, or else a margherita,which really explodes on the palate.
Il Pizzaiolo Del Presidente
The Via dei Tribunali, in the heart of Naples’ historic centre, must be the street with the highest density of essential pizzerias in the world. In the consequent list of restaurants, Il Pizzaiolo Del Presidente should be set in capitals and highlighted in fluorescent marker. In the colours and aromas of their pizzas you will discover the finest essences of the traditional Neapolitan pizza.
La Notizia
Don’t be deceived by its apparent simplicity – at La Notizia the margherita is a pleasure on the taste buds. Perched on the hill overlooking Spaccanapoli, the ride to the pizzeria by funicular railway is a veritable happening. A sublimated experience once you have sat down and started biting into their exquisite creation baked in a wood-fired oven, their tomato, mozzarella and fresh basil combined in perfect harmony.
Pellone
Tradition has it that pellone is the joy experienced when your pizza has a diameter that overspills the circumference of the plate it is served on. This venue is a winning bet for both epicures and insatiable diners. Heirs to the family tradition, the De Luca brothers – Mimmo, Franco and Antimo – have drawn praise and even reverence from leading connoisseurs for their pizza margherita,the marinara and the house speciality, fried calzone with ricotta and an escarole filling.
Sorbillo
For many, the charismatic celebrity, Gino Sorbillo, grandson of the pizzaiolo, Luigi Sorbillo, the first in the line of the family pizza-makers, is the current king of Neapolitan pizzas, Baked in a wood-fire oven and massive in size, it would be a sin to pass up their marinara. It you’re still hungry after that, for dessert let yourself be tempted by their semifreddo, which is simply superb.
Starita
Cinema lovers may well be familiar with this eatery, as it served as the backdrop to The Gold of Naples, a classic by Vittorio De Sica in which the main stars are the stunning pair, Silvana Mangano and Sophia Loren. Opened in 1901 as a wine cellar by Antonio Starita, his grandson, also named Antonio Starita, has gradually consolidated it as one of the most lauded pizzerias in the city of Vesuvius.
Text by Oriol Rodríguez for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by yashima, Bex Walton
more info