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Reykjavik A Great Small City I

This, the first part of the post focuses on the rich music scene in the Icelandic capital. As we shall see, it is an enchanting, visitor-friendly city, full of contrasts.

To some extent, if you’ve only seen Reykjavik, you haven’t really seen Iceland. What you have seen, though, is its openness to the world, its warmer, more friendly side, making you feel comfortable despite being thousands of kilometres from home. For, once you leave the welcoming streets in Reykjavik’s city centre, the distances between built-up areas grow exponentially, with population centres distributed like in the United States. Reykjavik itself is the largest city on the island, with a population of 130,000 inhabitants – 215,000 if you include its surrounding areas. Once you leave the limits of Reykjavik, nature rules, but that is another story we will deal with some other time.

While the freezing winter temperatures preclude the sort of sightseeing we Mediterraneans are fond of, a visit to Reykjavik in spring, summer and early autumn can be a fantastic experience. In early October, temperatures in the city are still bearable for Spanish tourists, ranging from a minimum of two degrees to a maximum of ten. Well, that’s cold, but not untowardly so. With that in mind, and given the scarce sunlight hours, you will feel like walking up and down the street and peeking into the shop windows ranged one after the other in the city centre. Craft stores, fashion stores and boutiques with a huge variety of apparel. Those selling jerseys with colourful, handmade patterns come highly recommended. Then there are the restaurants, musical bars, art galleries and even record shops, making downtown Reykjavik a large business emporium, although worlds apart from the crowding of the large European city centres. Here, everything is carefully thought out, but endearingly so – shops all have their own personality and service is warm and friendly. You won’t be overwhelmed by ghetto-blasting piped music, endless queues or intrusive, frenzied marketing campaigns.

When you’re ready to grab a bite, your options range from strong-tasting local fare to Italian-style pizzas, like those served up at Primo Ristorante, while appetising Nordic- and Slavic-style soups are also much in vogue – be sure to visit Svarta Kaffi, at Laugavegur 54, where the soup is served in bread. Also worth trying are the hot dogs at Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur (Tryggvagata 1), a street stall where, according to George Clinton, they make the best hot dogs in the world. And, don’t worry about the service. Apart from the fact that you can come across people of various nationalities – among them, quite a few Spaniards – Icelanders are friendly yet discreet people. And, don’t be surprised if the waiters or waitresses seem very young by Spanish standards. While work may be considered ennobling, in Iceland they appear to have learned this earlier than in other European countries.

For those who don’t fancy walking about, Reykjavik has several bus lines covering the city centre and surrounding areas.

A trip to Iceland could start in the streets of Reykjavik and then strike out necessarily across the island, one of the most beautiful in the world for those seeking tranquility, a magical atmosphere and nature in the raw. In the city, buildings are painted in various colours, so you can come across one with blue walls adjoining another in stately white, tainted by the passage of time. In the wild, the white of snow and ice, the bright green of the vegetation, volcanic greys and browns and the one thousand and one hues of freely flowing waters combine to create a colour palette which underscores the majesty of this land’s natural surroundings, which Icelanders have long protected, a sentiment deep-seated in their hearts.

While your first port of call may be the city, you should also consider taking the chance to venture out into Iceland’s wild, free interior. To go no further, Reykjavik harbour provides numerous options of three- to five-hour boat rides to go whale-spotting. The idea is to observe various types of whales swimming freely in the cold Arctic waters; whales of different sizes, as well as an amazing variety of dolphins. But, don’t get your hopes up too fast – the animals aren’t just out there waiting for you to come along. It’s up to the gods of the sea whether you will be lucky enough to spot them, or whether your trip will be successful. Indeed, you are more likely to get the desired results by going on an outing to the areas where those “little Atlantic friars” the puffins live and nest. Some eight to ten million puffins are believed to inhabit the territory.

But, there is a lot more to do in a city like Reykjavik. From there you can watch the fantastic northern lights and, if you are lucky, you will coincide with one of the few occasions when the city lights are switched off to enhance everyone’s viewing experience of this natural wonder. You could also visit Hallgrímskirkja Church – with grey tones on the outside, and striking forms and interior spaces – or have a dip in the warm waters of any number of thermal baths, both in the city and outside it.

Our next post will focus on one of the most prolific and interesting music scenes on the planet. Fire up and discover the world’s northernmost capital – check out our flights here.

Text by Joan S. Luna (Mondo Sonoro)

Images by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

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Eating Out Within Dubrovnik's City Walls – Part I

Dubrovnik's cuisine may go unnoticed, with all the unbeatable charms of this walled city and its surroundings to compete against. These include the relaxing and beautiful island of Lokrum, or the idyllic, forested wine area of Konavle, some 40 minutes south of the city. But many restaurants here go far beyond standard fast food or burgers and offer high-quality Mediterranean food, and often generous portions at tourist-friendly prices. The following are the eateries we have tried out for you.

Tinel

Tiny bar in Antuninska Street. Its terrace has a few tables, but is mainly spread out on a street staircase – a common phenomenon in Dubrovnik cafés. People have their coffee while passers-by walk up or down the steps beside them. This bar is frequented by locals and artists attending the Summer Festival.

Skola

Another small and popular establishment, also located in Antuninska Street. Their Dalmatian ham sandwich, Prsut Sir, is the local's favourite – with salty, smoked ham, cheese and lettuce – and has been served here for the last 50 years. Their delicious homemade white bread is served warm, freshly-baked. Salads, sardines and combined dishes are also on the menu.

Proto

First opened in 1886, Protois an institution in the city, with Dubrovnik’s best cooks having learnt their skills here. This calm, majestic terrace located one storey above the street’s bustle has seen the likes of Tom Cruise, Roger Moore, the Game of Thrones stars, Prince Edward and Wallis Simpson. The chef, Bosko Lonac, is in favour of top quality food without too much fuss. His star dishes are fish with salt and egg yolk, drizzled with oil and lemon juice – that melts in your mouth – or cod risotto, where the ingredients aren’t mixed together, but presented separately on the dish; a shrimp and truffle “salad” of extremely high quality and a very interesting octopus ragù, with polenta soaked in cuttlefish ink. For dessert, we recommend rozata, a pudding with a subtle rose liqueur note.

Kopun

A restaurant with history. Its terrace is surrounded by emblematic buildings, such as the only Baroque church in the city – St Ignatius – a seminary, and a Greek and Latin school. History is also present in their cuisine, featuring traditional Croatian dishes, including capon, eaten since the 16th century (Kopun means capon in Croatian). This versatile delicacy can be found in soups, salads, mixed in a mushroom sauce, oven-baked (for six to eight people), and Dubrovnik style – with figs, carrots and gnocchi – a recipe that is featured in the cookbook of Game of Thrones.

Other dishes worth trying are fuzi (macaroni) with prawns and truffles ­– an Istrian specialty – topped with a langoustine, Slavonian cold meat, lightly smoked and quite spicy, and brodet, a type of fish and seafood stew with polenta and pungent tomato sauce.

Only Croatian wines are served here. We recommend the fresh Malvasija Tezoro white and the powerful Pometred, both from the Konavle wine area. And last, but not least, they are kind enough to provide blankets for the diners.

It opens every day from March to October from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Their daily menu costs 10 euros including a fish, meat or vegetarian main course and dessert, drinks excluded. If you opt to dine à la carte, the average price is 25 to 30 euros, without drinks.

Lero Hotel

When travelling to Dubrovnik, we recommend spending the night here. It’s not too pricey and is a 20-minute walk from the historical centre. Modern and very comfy, albeit lacking any frills, this hotel has several rooms with a sea view and amenities such as a swimming pool, a wellness area and a Wi-Fi connection.

After giving you some tips on Dubrovnik’s best spots to dine in, coming soon is an issue of My Vueling City devoted to the cuisine outside the city walls. Come and experience this marvellous city with us! Check out our flights here.

Text and images by Grastronomistas

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The Jet Set’s Best Kept Secret

Granted, the seaboard of the Emerald Coast is a haven for anyone seeking idyllic beaches and crystal-clear turquoise waters. And one might be forgiven for forgetting to visit the town of Olbia. However, we are determined to sing the praises of this charming locality in the north of Sardinia, and of the Emerald Coast and environs. Touring here during the summer months is obviously a surefire bet, but we intend to persuade you to make an off-season visit, to discover the area’s true DNA, over and above any touristic conditioning.

Olbia

On the opposite side to its industrial precinct lies an attractive town with a historical centre dotted with shops, wine bars and café-packed squares. But, above all, the authenticity of Olbia stands in stark contrast to the more touristy areas on the north and south sides of the island.

Located on the Emerald Coast, Olbia is clearly evocative of a classical Sardinian picture postcard – white sandy beaches, wind-sculpted rocks projecting into the blue sea and luxury tourism galore, with yachts moored off the many coves along the coastline. However, inland Gallura seems to be in the antipodes, with its vineyards, pretty villages, mountains and mysterious nuragas – the most prolific megalithic construction on the island dating back prior to 1,000 BC. The northern Gallura coastline is rugged, its waters an exclusive sanctuary for dolphins, divers and windsurfers delighting in the marine reserve of La Maddalena. The Maddalena National Park includes an archipelago made up of seven islands, known as “the Seven Sisters”: La Maddalena – the largest of them – Caprera, Santo Stefano, Spargi, Budelli, Santa Maria and Razzoli. All the islands are granitic, set close to one another and surrounded by shallow water. This, added to the chromatic fluctuations of the sea and the marvel of nature here make for an incomparable setting well worth discovering. The town still has the appearance of a former fishing village and its sights include the town hall, the parish church of Santa Maria Maddalena, as well as restaurants and shops offering all kinds of products.

Emerald Coast

The Emerald Coast, which stretches for 55 km from Porto Rotondo to the Gulf of Arzachena, is the island’s most sought after tourist destination, a flashy preserve of luxury hotels, hidden beaches and pleasure harbours accessible to a chosen few. Ever since the Aga Khan acquired the coast for a sou in the 1960s, it has attracted the jet set from all over the world and, of course, a swarm of paparazzi, too. But, despite such trifles, the fact remains it is a well nigh perfect setting, with granite mountains bathed in emerald-green waters and a string of coves, each of them different yet perfect in its own right.

Its capital is Porto Cervo, an unusual seaside resort in that it resembles a mock-up, with Moorish-style buildings and squeaky-clean streets. Jaunty, rakish and worldly, this sophisticated spot is a veritable paradise. From June to September it is the hub of high-class partying, with tanned beauties posing in the Piazzetta and oil millionaires ambling about the big name stores. But, the coast is very quiet for the rest of the year and it is unlikely you will bump into anybody, apart from the odd bunch of locals.

A westbound excursion would be in order. You will come to Baia Sardinia, an expanse of exquisite sand, while in the south, near the Hotel Cala di Volpe, lie the spectacular beaches of Capriccioli and Spiaggia di Liscia Ruia. Hard by the Hotel Romazzino, the beach of Spiaggia del Principe fans out in the shape of a crescent moon, its white sand bathed by the deep blue sea. But, let’s press on with our dream. And, not all the region’s treasures are sited along the coast.

Not to be missed in the interior is the village of San Pantaleo. Further inland, the town of Arzachena reveals a number of interesting archaeological sites, notably Nuraghe di Albucciu, alongside the main road to Olbia, and Coddu Ecchju, one of the island’s most important tombe dei giganti – funerary monuments made up of communal burials dating from the Nuragic period (second millennium BC).

Eager to discover the marvels of Olbia and the Emerald Coast during the quieter months? Check out our flights here.

 

Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación

Images by Gabriel Garcia Marengo

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Three Essential Spots on Gran Canaria

But, that is not all. There is also an endless array of places to visit and activities to engage in. Despite the myriad options, we have made a selection of the spots we feel you can’t afford to miss.

It is well known that Gran Canaria’s beaches are one of its major draws but, to leave it at that would be doing an injustice to an island that has practically unlimited potential. Following is a selection of three must-see sights – apart from the beaches, of course – for your next trip to the island. Our choice is based on several criteria, not just its touristic appeal. Here, then, is our ranking:

 3) Painted Cave Museum and Archaeological Park

The Painted Cave Museum and Archaeological Park complex is one of the most stunning sites in Gran Canaria. It lies in the heart of Gáldar’s town centre (Calle Audiencia, 2), in the north of the island. The approach road is therefore the same one leading into the historic centre.

The Painted Cave was discovered in 1862 as a result of agricultural earthwork. The cave interior is huge, its walls richly decorated with all kinds of geometric symbols. The archaeological complex is currently made up of six caves carved out by the ancient dwellers of Gran Canaria, and remains of red ochre can still be seen adorning the walls and ceiling.

The various archaeological projects implemented around the Painted Cave in recent years revealed the presence of a terrace-built country home. The outworks connect the bottom of the gulley to the town’s historic centre, forming what was one of the quarters in the pre-Hispanic Agáldar settlement.

2) Teror Town Centre

The origins of Teror predate the island’s conquest by the Crown of Castile in the 15th century. Indeed, the place-name is derived from the indigenous word Aterura, Therore or Terori, the meaning of which is unknown.

The town’s history and development are closely linked to the Marian apparition of the Virgin of the Pine and the existence of a shrine dating from 1514. However, writings containing references to its station as a centre of pilgrimage do not emerge until two centuries after its foundation.

The “Villa Mariana de Teror” was designated an Art History Complex in 1979, turning it into one of the leading tourist destinations in the island’s interior. Folk traditions and beautiful, meticulously designed houses go hand-in-hand in the streets of Teror, noted for the views they afford of typical Canarian balconies.

A stroll through the historic centre of the town should start willy-nilly at the square of Nuestra Señora del Pino, alongside the church. You can get there quickly from the parking lot by crossing the square above it and heading down Calle Obispo Marquina. If you’re travelling by bus, it stops on the east side of the precinct, so you only need to continue along the Calle Real to the square at the end.

1) The Guayadeque Gorge

The Guayadeque Gorge lies between the towns of Agüimes and Ingenio, in the east of Gran Canaria. The area is of great environmental value and has a rich heritage, leading it to be designated a Natural Monument and an Asset of Cultural Interest – categorised as an “Archaeological Area” – a distinction granted it by the Canary Islands’ Law of Historical Heritage.

The road running through the gorge winds among spectacular cliffs awash with a large variety of pre-Hispanic archaeological deposits and sites, prominent among them being the settlement known as Bermeja Cave.

Housed there is the Guayadeque Gorge Information Centre, open every day except Monday, where you can find out about the archaeological sites in the area and glean a lot of other interesting information about this priceless spot. Visitors will also be able to learn more about the rich, natural fauna and flora in the gorge.

Towards the end of the road winding through the Guayadeque gorge you will come to a number of restaurants set  in the rock face itself. The most popular of them is El Centro, comprising a cave complex that creates a unique setting for a restaurant. They offer an extensive menu with dishes representative of Canary Island cuisine, featuring such specialities as fried pork, mixed grill and barbecued pork.

Fancy discovering it for yourself? Check out our flights here.


Images by Patronato Turismo Gran Canaria

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