Dreams of Lava & Ice in the Icelandic Highlands
Iceland is prolific in place-names which are difficult to pronounce, recall and, of course, spell. Landmannalaugar is one of these but, once you have travelled to this oasis nestling in multi-coloured mountains, where spouting thermal springs, sulphurous vapours and fumaroles melt the ice, this musical, fifteen-letter name becomes a simple word you will never forget. On the contrary – each time you utter it, hear it or read it, you will be transported to that natural paradise which has irremediably become part of your very existence.
Landscapes From Another Planet
Here, in this remote spot, which can only be reached in a 4x4 vehicle – in summer, several 4x4 buses ply the route daily from Hella – begins one of the most popular and spectacular hiking trails in the country and, indeed, on the planet.
Officially, it is known as Laugavegur, which translates roughly to “thermal waters route”. It is usually negotiated from north to south for a distance of 56 km as far as Þórsmörk. The hike then continues another 26 km from there to Skógar along a trail known as Fimmvörðuháls. Along this route, which takes from 4 to 6 days, endless scenic surprises await the traveller, from rhyolite mountains with indescribable colours to fields of fumaroles, glaciers and waterfalls, and deserts of lava and active volcanoes.
Accessible Stages
Laugavegur is the most popular stretch of the trail and is divided into four accessible stages of from 12 to 15 km, with stopovers at Hrafntinnusker, Álftavatn, Emstrur and Þórsmörk. Experienced walkers can complete two stages in one go as there are few slopes and the daylight hours are particularly long in the northern summer. Þórsmörk has a station for 4x4 buses so you can take one back to Hella.
Continuing along the Fimmvörðuháls trail from the Þórsmörk valley, the slope becomes steeper and some areas are more exposed and windswept. This stretch can be divided into two spectacular stages with a stopover at the Fimmvörðuháls shelter. This stage is probably one of the most amazing ones in trekking. It takes you past the Mýrdallsjokull and Eyjafjallajokull glaciers, and across a lava field that emerged during the famous 2010 eruption – which grounded so many flights – culminating in a long descent on which you can admire a total of 24 spectacular waterfalls, with the legendary Skógafoss as the final flourish.
Practical Guide
Dates: Open from June to September.
Difficulty: In good weather, the route is easy as far as Þórsmörk, and moderate up to Skógar.
Weather: Weather conditions in the Icelandic Highlands can change drastically in a few hours, even in summer. You should keep checking the weather report at shelters and abide by warnings issued by rangers and the shelter managers.
Navigation: The route is signposted in early summer with yellow stakes placed every few metres. In the event of being overtaken by fog or bad weather, it is useful to have GPS with route tracking. However, bear in mind that the route can vary slightly from year to year, particularly at river crossings.
Gear: Essential to have mountain footwear and warm clothing.
Food: There are no restaurants or grocery stores anywhere along the trail, and they do not serve food in the emergency shelters. However, you can pay for camping or an overnight with a credit card. Thus, you have to be self-sufficient and stock up with all the food you are going to need during the hike (reckon on a minimum of 1 kg per person per day).
A Roof Over Your Head: You need to book in advance to sleep at the shelters along the route. For certain summer dates, this requires booking several months ahead and the trekking agencies usually hog most of the available places.
Camping: There are camping areas around the shelters and they are always pay sites. You don’t need to book ahead, however. Some have showers and rubbish collection. Others only have drinking water and toilets. It is advisable to take a light tent that can withstand strong winds.
Rivers: Avoid crossing rivers at their narrowest point, as that is where they are deepest. You should wear tightly-fitting waterproof sandals to prevent them being ripped off by the current.
Guided Treks: If you prefer to travel light – without having to carry food or camping equipment – want to ensure a reservation in the shelters along the way and enjoy the company of a guide, the specialised agency Tierras Polares covers the whole route in July and August in the course of an 8-day trip, of which six days are spent trekking. Prices from €1,595.
Day Tour All Year Around: You can also visit Landmannalaugar on a Super Jeep Tour. The super jeep is a 4x4 vehicle with oversize tyres which can take you into the Highlands any time of the year, and pick-up is at your hotel in Reykjavik. Price per person: ISK 35,000 (€250).
Venture into the wonderland of the Icelandic Highlands – book your Vueling to Reykjavik here.
Text and photos by Sergio Fernández Tolosa & Amelia Herrero Becker (Con un par de ruedas)
more info
Primavera Sound Survival Guide
The seventeenth edition of Primavera Sound will be held in Barcelona from 31 May to 4 June. The main centre of operations is the Parc del Fòrum, but concerts will also be hosted at other points in town (check out the festival website for these extra concerts and ticket availability). Barcelona will actually become the world’s music capital for five days. This year the line-up is headed by a wide variety of top-notch artists, notably Van Morrison, Grace Jones, Arcade Fire, Bon Iver, Frank Ocean, The xx, Aphex Twin, Slayer and Solange, as well as a number of highly interesting b-series artists, including The Damned, Wild Beasts, Angel Olsen, The Magnetic Fields, Marie Davidson, Julie Dorion and Mac Demarco, among others.
Apart from treating visitors to myriad musical offerings, Primavera Sound also gives you the chance to see the city. Barcelona is a comparatively compact city, so you can tour it in a short space of time. Here, then, are some tips on how to do it at your convenience.
Room Wanted
Barcelona is a tourist resort and, as such, offers a host of hotel accommodations. Then again, that makes it difficult to decide on an option. Here are three quite different proposals to help you make your choice. The first is Hostel Generator, located on Calle Córcega, well placed in terms of the city centre, the Gràcia district and the Verdaguer metro stop where you can get Line 4 straight to the Fòrum. Another interesting option is Melon District Marina, a student residence which also accepts bookings for just a few days, located halfway between downtown Barcelona and the main Primavera Sound venue (it’s just a fifteen-minute ride by either Metro or Trambaix to the Parc del Fòrum). Lastly, if you’re on a shoestring budget, you could always check out the Couchsurfing Barcelona website to find free accommodation.
Affordable Snacks
Barcelona’s culinary array is also endless. Here, we focus on a few reputable restaurants serving a Mediterranean diet and, more importantly, at reasonable prices. Let’s begin at Urretxu, a Basque restaurant near the Olympic Village which serves up market cuisine – ideal for a quick meal before any of the concerts. It is close to several stops on Line 4 and just a stone’s throw from the Fòrum. More centrally located – specifically, on Calle Diputación – is Gelida, with its typically Catalan culinary offerings which will suit all pockets. They do not have a house menu, but the list of dishes based on fresh products is great. Winding up these recommendations is the Bacoa hamburger chain, with several outlets scattered about the city. You can sit down to a meal of their organic meat hamburgers in any of their establishments, or opt for a takeaway, a good choice if you’re looking to get to the festival grounds as early as possible.
Hunting For Vinyl
If you’re left with any spare time after the flurry of activity generated by Primavera Sound, why not drop in on some of the city’s most venerable record shops? It’s worth embarking on that quest for the vinyl you’ve been seeking out for some time in the Calle Tallers, right next to Barcelona’s Rambla. There you will find the two stores owned by Discos Revolver, who celebrated their thirty-fifth anniversary just a short while ago. Another place of pilgrimage for music lovers which you should make a point of visiting is Ultra-Local Records, located on Calle Pujades, just a few metres from the line 4 metro stop of Llacuna (three stops from the Fòrum). Another way of “searching for the lost record” on the Sunday hangover morning is by visiting Mercat de Sant Antoni, an emblematic second-hand street market where, apart from vinyls, you can pick up all sorts of collectibles at very reasonable prices.
Book your Vueling to Barcelona and gear up to revel in the Primavera Sound festivities.
Text by Xavi Sánchez Pons
more info
More Than Just Beer
Indeed, a lot has been going on in this lovely city in Western Bohemia throughout the year. Over 600 events of all kinds have been held as part of its splendid programme. If you haven’t the chance to go there yet, the final stretch of these cultural events are clearly a good excuse to do so.
Art is Everywhere
One of the hallmarks of this edition is that the arts are present in public spaces in the form of temporary installations, themed parties and inaugurations held in unusual venues. Some industrial buildings, which have given over their premises to the so-called “Imagination Factories”, have also been taken over by art. The renowned plastic artist and director of cartoons, Jiří Trnka, is hosting an exhibition entitled The Garden, while, for the first time ever, Europe will see the valuable collection of Maori portraits by Gottfried Lindauer, a native of Pilsen and one of the illustrious figures of New Zealand art.
At the Museum of Western Bohemia (Západočeské muzeum),design and technology enthusiasts will be treated to an exhibition on the work of Ladislav Sutnar, a pioneer of information architecture and one of the founders of world graphic design. The original home interiors of the architect, Adolf Loos, are also open to the public as part of a special itinerary drawn up for the occasion. Also featured is an exhibition of contemporary European puppetry under the direction of Matěj Forman, while an exhibition of contemporary international design will be hosted on the magnificent premises of the Pilsner Urquell Brewery.
The Western Bohemia Gallery (Západočeská galerie) will be presenting works by the leading figures of the Munich Secession, pioneers of the early European avant-garde, featuring works from the collections of Munich’s Villa Stuck Museum and the Lenbachhaus Gallery. On display will be the work of such artists as Gabriel von Max, Franz von Stuck, Vassily Kandinski, Paul Klee and other members of the group, Der Blaue Reiter, as well as Czech representatives of Art Nouveau and modern art who lived and worked in the Bavarian capital during the same period.
However, to keep track of the cultural activities programmed for this final stretch, those interested should check out the events on the Pilsen Information Website, where you will find a day by day schedule of all the events to come. We recommend you keep tabs on the days when the grass-roots craft workshops are held in the main square as they will only be set up on eight days in the year, and this is something you should not miss.
A City Under A City
One of the must-see sights of the city is one that takes you into the maze of corridors, cellars and wells under the paving stones of Pilsen. The complete underground complex was built in the 14th century, and this underground city had an important function – to preserve food, but also as the site of craft workshops, wineries and malt breweries. You will also see technical installations such as drainage galleries, sewers and wells. It takes you back in time, providing insight into life in a medieval city.
World Beer Capital
You are advised to pick up your special beer coin which can be exchanged for tasting the Master Semi-dark beer in some restaurants. If you don’t see the badge on the door, ask the waiter. And, as you’re in the “beer city”, don’t fail to drop in on the Brewery Museum. This is the best way to see how this barley elixir is brewed and the museum reveals the history of beer from ancient times up to the present. It is located in an original brewery in the city’s historic centre.
The exhibition, both amusing and edifying, reveals the brewing process, the secrets of production and ways of serving and drinking the hops-laden beverage over the centuries. You can also stroll through medieval breweries and into a 19th-century village brew-house. A whole section of the museum is set aside for the display of implements and curiosities associated with the world of beer. One of the most impressive areas features the steam-driven brew kettles, capable of producing thirty litres of beer each in one go.
Art and beer are the winning combination in Pilsen. What are you waiting for? Check out our flights here.
Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
Images by Centro de Información de Pilsen
more infoEating Out Within Dubrovnik's City Walls – Part I
Dubrovnik's cuisine may go unnoticed, with all the unbeatable charms of this walled city and its surroundings to compete against. These include the relaxing and beautiful island of Lokrum, or the idyllic, forested wine area of Konavle, some 40 minutes south of the city. But many restaurants here go far beyond standard fast food or burgers and offer high-quality Mediterranean food, and often generous portions at tourist-friendly prices. The following are the eateries we have tried out for you.
Tinel
Tiny bar in Antuninska Street. Its terrace has a few tables, but is mainly spread out on a street staircase – a common phenomenon in Dubrovnik cafés. People have their coffee while passers-by walk up or down the steps beside them. This bar is frequented by locals and artists attending the Summer Festival.
Skola
Another small and popular establishment, also located in Antuninska Street. Their Dalmatian ham sandwich, Prsut Sir, is the local's favourite – with salty, smoked ham, cheese and lettuce – and has been served here for the last 50 years. Their delicious homemade white bread is served warm, freshly-baked. Salads, sardines and combined dishes are also on the menu.
Proto
First opened in 1886, Protois an institution in the city, with Dubrovnik’s best cooks having learnt their skills here. This calm, majestic terrace located one storey above the street’s bustle has seen the likes of Tom Cruise, Roger Moore, the Game of Thrones stars, Prince Edward and Wallis Simpson. The chef, Bosko Lonac, is in favour of top quality food without too much fuss. His star dishes are fish with salt and egg yolk, drizzled with oil and lemon juice – that melts in your mouth – or cod risotto, where the ingredients aren’t mixed together, but presented separately on the dish; a shrimp and truffle “salad” of extremely high quality and a very interesting octopus ragù, with polenta soaked in cuttlefish ink. For dessert, we recommend rozata, a pudding with a subtle rose liqueur note.
Kopun
A restaurant with history. Its terrace is surrounded by emblematic buildings, such as the only Baroque church in the city – St Ignatius – a seminary, and a Greek and Latin school. History is also present in their cuisine, featuring traditional Croatian dishes, including capon, eaten since the 16th century (Kopun means capon in Croatian). This versatile delicacy can be found in soups, salads, mixed in a mushroom sauce, oven-baked (for six to eight people), and Dubrovnik style – with figs, carrots and gnocchi – a recipe that is featured in the cookbook of Game of Thrones.
Other dishes worth trying are fuzi (macaroni) with prawns and truffles – an Istrian specialty – topped with a langoustine, Slavonian cold meat, lightly smoked and quite spicy, and brodet, a type of fish and seafood stew with polenta and pungent tomato sauce.
Only Croatian wines are served here. We recommend the fresh Malvasija Tezoro white and the powerful Pometred, both from the Konavle wine area. And last, but not least, they are kind enough to provide blankets for the diners.
It opens every day from March to October from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Their daily menu costs 10 euros including a fish, meat or vegetarian main course and dessert, drinks excluded. If you opt to dine à la carte, the average price is 25 to 30 euros, without drinks.
Lero Hotel
When travelling to Dubrovnik, we recommend spending the night here. It’s not too pricey and is a 20-minute walk from the historical centre. Modern and very comfy, albeit lacking any frills, this hotel has several rooms with a sea view and amenities such as a swimming pool, a wellness area and a Wi-Fi connection.
After giving you some tips on Dubrovnik’s best spots to dine in, coming soon is an issue of My Vueling City devoted to the cuisine outside the city walls. Come and experience this marvellous city with us! Check out our flights here.
Text and images by Grastronomistas
more info