Saint Ranieri is the patron of the Tuscan city of Pisa and of travellers. Spectacular celebrations in his honour and commemorating his death are held each year on 17 June and the previous day. The highlights are the Luminara di San Ranieri and the Regatta Storica, staged in some of the city’s most emblematic spots.

Luminara di San Ranieri – Pisa by Candlelight

On 16 June, as the sun begins to set, Pisa comes alight with the Luminara di San Ranieri. Thousands of lights appear in windows and on cornices, illuminating the outlines of buildings, churches and bridges and setting up a unique and very beautiful effect. Some 70,000 candles, known as lampanini or lumini, placed in cups and on candlesticks, are consumed in this spectacle of light. The display is magical and a stroll along the banks of the river Arno and across its bridges as you contemplate the reflections of the lights playing on the surface of the water is an unforgettable experience.

That night is the ideal time for visiting the city’s landmark buildings which, being lit up, provide an extraordinary sight. The 12th-century city walls on the Piazza dei Miracoli (Square of the Miracles) frame a monumental complex consisting of the Duomo and the famous Leaning Tower of Pisa, the Baptistery and the Monumental Cemetery – a whole historical complex enhanced by the candlelight. At 11 p.m. a great fireworks display starts up at the Cittadella Vecchia (Old Citadel), painting the sky of Pisa in a host of colours. That is when everybody congregates around the river Arno as it affords the best view of the spectacle.

Regatta Storica di San Ranieri 

On the following day, the feast of Saint Ranieri, the celebrations continue across the whole city, featuring music, dancing and banquets. Another noteworthy event in honour of the saint takes place that same day, the Regatta Storica di San Ranieri, a race between rowing boats representing Pisa’s four historical districts – San Francesco, San Martino, Santa Maria and Sant’ Antonio. The boats are reconstructions of the stefaniane, a typical rowing boat used by the Order of the Cavalieri di Santo Stefano.

Apart from the Leaning Tower, What Else is there to See?

Pisa is the jewel of Tuscany, a destination that attracts thousands of tourists eager to soak up its art and historical heritage. The birthplace of Galileo Galilei has a lot to offer, apart from the Leaning Tower. Corso Italiai s the city’s shopping precinct, the ideal place for picking up an Italian fashion garment or for enjoying the café terraces. Borgo Stretto, too, with its elegant bars and haute couture stores. This medieval alley eventually leads into the Piazza dei Cavalieri (Knights’ Square), the city’s historic centre. The square boasts centuries-old buildings, such as the Palazzo della Carovana, also known as the Palazzo dei Cavalieri, built as the headquarters of the Order of the Knights of St Stephen, which now houses one of Italy’s most prestigious universities, the Scuola Normale Superiore di Pisa. Opposite stands the Palazzo dell’Orologio (Clock Palace) with its two medieval towers. Legend has it that this palace was built over the remains of the Torre della Fame (Tower of Hunger) where, as cited in Dante Alighieri’s Divine Comedy, the Conte Ugolino della Gherardesca was imprisoned, together with his sons, accused of treason by the archbishop. The key to their cell was thrown into the river Arno and they all died slowly of hunger.

Incidentally, Piazza Dante is another of the city’s landmarks. It provides smooth access into the alleyways of the medieval city with its countless bars and restaurants serving Tuscan cuisine. The food is excellent in Pisa and, by avoiding the more commercial circuits around the Leaning Tower, is not necessarily expensive.

Text by Scanner FM

Images by Fabio Gismondi | elenavataga | Federico Caboni | Alex | Alessandro | Guillaume Baviere

Who would have thought that, when they made their debut on stage at the Café Bizarre in New York, the young Lou Reed and John Cale would end up being the stars of an exhibition paying tribute to their band in Paris? That was back in 1965 when, having first called themselves The Warlocks and then The Falling Spikes, they had finally settled on a name that would identify and enshrine them for posterity. Incidentally, The Velvet Underground was the title of a book on sado-masochism written by Michael Leigh which had fallen into their hands by sheer chance. Nothing unusual, however, considering that drugs, prostitution, transvestism and homosexuality were rife in their New York haunts and would become the subject of many of their song lyrics, a fact which rattled more than one music producer.

Andy Warhol, a great one for moving in the New York underground and absorbing it into his parties and his works, particularly in the film pieces he shot with Paul Morrissey, was enthralled with the music of this upcoming band and added them to the prevailing fauna in The Factory. What’s more, he even took the bold step of taking over as manager of the group and in 1967 released his first production, The Velvet Underground & Nico, for which he did the cover design. Indeed, I am referring to the famous cover with the banana sticker, a veritable icon in the art world. But, the album’s value lies not only in its wrapping. Its content includes some genuine musical pearls like Sunday Morning, I’m Waiting for the Man, Venus in Furs and Heroin.One of the upshots of their collaboration with the pop artist par excellence were the videos he recorded with them, which ranged from ghoulish to arty, in which he enveloped the band in light and colour.

While the album was not a super-hit – only some 30,000 copies were sold – the band decided to  break with the core of Andy Warhol and The Factory to pursue their career as musicians. The Velvet Underground remained active until 1973, when differences between the leaders were responsible for precipitating a break-up – John Cale having had a more academic music training, while Lou Reed had followed a more rebellious line. They actually started moving in and out of the band, until they eventually decided to break up altogether.

Despite their short career and meagre success, at least as far as album sales is concerned, The Velvet Underground was one of the most influential bands of New York. Heirs to the beat generation legacy, they played a crucial role in New York’s counter-culture, far removed from the psychedelic hippie culture of the seventies that reigned in San Francisco, the other major hub of creativity in the United States. Among those who inherited their destructured sound and coarse lyrics were Ramones, The Voidoids, Dead Boys, The Heartbreakers, Siouxsie and the Banshees, Joy Division, Bauhaus, The Contortions, Bush Tetras, Teenage Jesus and The Jerks, DNA, Sonic Youth, Spacemen 3 and Nirvana.

The Philharmonie de Paris is hosting a tribute to this band in the form of an exhibition entitled, The Velvet Underground. New York Extravaganza, which runs until 12 August. Audiovisual material has been carefully curated, with six films being purpose produced for the occasion, also featuring television file pictures, photos and portraits of the band members, objects from private collections and works by contemporary and later artists who were seduced by the charms of the band. This whole ensemble is designed to recount the story of the group and its lasting legacy. But, there is more – the exhibition will be supported by a parallel set of activities, including conferences, screenings and concerts.

Go back down memory lane and relive one of the outstanding rock bands of New York’s counter-culture by taking a getaway to Paris. Check out your Vueling here.

Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Raquel Micola was taught to sew when she was a young girl by her grandmother Fina, a dressmaker who specialised in repairing bullfighters’ costumes when they had been ripped by the bulls’ horns. It was from her grandmother that Micola inherited the penchant for perfection and learned the value of craftsmanship and the importance of paying attention to detail. She is now the designer of the fashion label Mimótica Micola (Provença 174, Barcelona) and here she takes us on a journey through Paris and introduces us to some of her most beloved parts of the city.

If there’s one city in the world that I never get tired of visiting it’s Paggggisss, my Paris. I fell in love with the city a long time ago but every time I go there I discover new places and leave even more besotted than before, if that’s possible.

The first time I wandered along the streets of Paris I was fascinated by the way they make everything seem “all pretty”, which is something I just love! Wherever I looked there was always something that made it seem special in some way or another, and I’m not talking about designer boutiques or art galleries, I’m talking about bakeries, cobblers…. que’l merveille!

It was there that I discovered one of my favourite brands of clothing, APC. They are French designers with a number of shops around Paris. Personally, I like to shop at their store in the Marais district (112 Rue Vieille du Temple). Their style is understated but you feel surprisingly special in one of their designs.

Another one of my favourite places is Merci, which is a concept store that has made the infamous Colette brand appear demodé. The place is very industrial and simple, and the way in which they display their merchandise is… pure class. It’s impossible to leave without purchasing some of their desk accessories, notebooks, pencils…I’m also very fond of their cosmetics section. It’s one of the few places in Europe (!) where you can purchase the Australian cosmetics brand Aesop. Believe me girls, Aesop have the only make-up remover which actually works. It can remove even the most stubborn mascara.

I occasionally stop for a bite to eat too. One of my favourite places is the Crèperie de Josselin (not to be confused with the crèperie Josselin, don´t forget the “de”) although it isn’t very well-known. It’s in the Montparnasse district (67, rue du Montparnasse) and I would strongly recommend leaving room for dessert as well as trying the savoury crepe with butter. I think I could eat one every day (come to think of it, maybe it’s a good thing that I don’t live in Paris after all…)

There is so much to see in Paris that I could fill pages and pages. I recommend the Marché au puces de Vanves flea market (on Avenue Marc Sangnier, weekend mornings only), the Le Loir dans la Théière tea rooms which can be found at 3 Rue de Rosiers and for those of you with children, the Bonton shop, beside Merci, is such an institution in Paris that those of you who don’t have children will want to have them just so that you have a reason to shop there.

Who knows, maybe Mimótica Micola will open a shop there. “We’ll always have Paris” after all.

Why not take a trip to París? Have a look at our flights here!

We travelled to Tel Aviv, Israel’s most European city, an island of hedonism in the heart of the Middle East where you can delight in the seaside, numerous art galleries, designer stores, discos… and restaurants.

Benedict

Israelis breakfast with gusto. That’s why at nine in the morning you will catch sight of bars and restaurants packed with customers breakfasting as if they were having lunch. The queue outside this venue, while not very long, speaks volumes of this restaurant’s popularity. It is the perfect place for breakfasting on good eggs Benedict in all its variations, accompanied by salad, bread and a beverage. It opens 24 hours, seven days a week.

Minzar Bar

Open every day and at all times, which is why it is a perennial meeting point for sharing a beer and a chat. Located next to the Carmel Market (Shuk Ha'Carmel), it is a prime meeting place for Tel Aviv intellectuals.

Espresso Bar

The elegant Rothschild Boulevard is brimming with lively, colourful establishments. One of these, on the corner of Herzl Street, is the place for an eggs Benedict and salmon breakfast on their peaceful terrace. Open every day from 6 a.m. to midnight.

La Gaterie

A small café serving marvellous croissants filled with cheese, ham, salami and egg… Ask for a local wine – you’ll be surprised. Open every day from 9 a.m. to 1 in the morning. Located on King George Street, which links the Dizengoff Centre to Kikar Rabin, the City Hall square, replete with bars and a ground zero for street protests.

Dalton

In the morning they serve up hearty breakfasts, as Israelis like them, while Italian cuisine is available for lunch and dinner. This restaurant with its retro decor lies in the heart of the Neve Tzedek quarter, a quiet and somewhat bohemian neighbourhood in Tel Aviv. Open every day from 7 a.m. to 11 p.m. Pines Street 27.

Dallal

Tel Aviv’s beautiful people (celebrities included) frequent this house with two patios to taste their Mediterranean dishes or have a cocktail. It is five minutes from the beach and opens every day from 9 a.m. to 11.30 p.m.

Night Kitchen

One of the fashionable restaurants in Tel Aviv is Night Kitchen. Modern and informal, it offers seasonal, proximity products, particularly vegetables. Open every day from 7 p.m. onwards.

Suzanna

Newcomers to this restaurant serving Mediterranean cuisine are usually wowed by their terrace, embellished by a giant tree affording good shade… and by their soups! Located in the Neve Tzedek district, next door to the Bat Sheva Dance Company.

The Old Man And The Sea

Several restaurants are sited in Jaffa Port. This one, which recalls Hemingway’s novel, The Old Man and The Sea and specialises in seafood cuisine, presents diners free-of-charge with a jug of lemonade and 22 side dishes, along with your order. The prawns and calamari are very fresh, and the mussels are served with garlic butter. Tea and coffee are also on the house. Open every day from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.

The Prince

You hesitate when about to step into this particularly dark, rickety entrance. If you’re a daredevil and cross the threshold, on the first floor you come to this venue, with one of the quaintest terraces in Tel Aviv. There you can enjoy a cocktail or beer, apart from ordering something simple to eat. Open every day from 5 p.m. to 11.30 p.m.

Aria

A two-storey house with two distinct proposals – upstairs is a gastronomic restaurant featuring delicate, modern, elegant and balanced international dishes based on locally sourced produce. Downstairs is a lounge bar. A tad more expensive than the rest, but a good option for giving yourself a treat. Opens at 7 p.m.

Book your Vueling to Tel Aviv and indulge in their culinary offerings.

Text and photos by Ferran Imedio of Gastronomistas.com