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7 Sweet Stops In Naples

Naples “non è solo pizza”, although the margarita is of course the local leading light. And rightly so. But, for now, we’re going to highlight other specialities in the capital of the Campania region which are not to be scoffed at. Here, then, are the must-visit spots for lovers of confectionery, ice-cream and chocolate.

Gay-Odin Chocolates

A highly popular confectioner's among Neapolitans and, when the locals are die-hard patrons of a place, this is a safe bet. It opened in 1894 and offers a huge variety of top-quality hard and soft chocolates of all kinds which are bound to liven up your stroll through the streets of old Naples. They also have biscuits and ice-creams – you should try the dark chocolate variety, of course. However, the creation that won us over is their Vesuvio, a dark chocolate mountain shaped like Vesuvius, the ideal souvenir for taking back to your chocolate-addict family.

Chalet Ciro – The Most Popular Ice-cream Parlour

Quite a long haul from the tourist centre of Naples, but a rewarding treat after a protracted walk along the scenic coast. This popular stopover, located at the end of the Riviera di Chiaia, is the place for savouring a delicious, creamy Italian ice-cream served in a cone, a tub or a huge brioche, a local speciality. It may be a calorie bomb, but a pleasure bomb, too. The bun is dripping with the creamy ice-cream flavours. This is a popular meeting place for Neapolitans, both by day and by night, where over 30 ice-cream flavour sare waiting to be indulged in. They also serve coffee and pastries.

“Caldo Freddo” at the Bar Mastracchio

Perhaps the most surprising treat of all, as this unpretentious bar is actually famous for its coffee. But Caldo Freddo is no ordinary coffee; it’s an espresso topped with a vanilla ice-cream mix and a wisp of hot, melted chocolate. However, be sure not to stir it, but down it in one go, as the idea is to let the hot and cold mingle in the mouth, as will the liquid and creaminess and the flavours of coffee, chocolate and vanilla. You will be bowled over, capable only of craving for another fix. Why deprive yourself of this treat? It’s the only place in town where a Caldo Freddo costs only 1 euro. Mamma mia!
(Vico Tofa, 4)

Gran Bar Riviera – A Pastry Shop On a Grand Scale

The epitome of a vintage pastry shop, its display cabinets are stuffed with countless pastries and buns, capable of giving you a surge in blood sugar by just looking at them. The premises appear not to have changed one jot in the last sixty years. One of their best-known Neapolitan specialities is torta pastiera, made of puff pastry, ricotta cream and roasted wheat, aromatised with orange blossom water, among other ingredients. Sold mainly in Holy Week and packed in a pretty tin which would go well in any retro kitchen.

The “Babàs” at Scaturchio

You simply cannot pass up this sweet institution in Naples. The pastry shop has won international acclaim for its mini babàs (a kind of brioche based on egg and butter which is baked and then dipped in rum syrup). This favourite of Pope Benedict XVI can be savoured on the spot with a ristretto, or at a table in the pretty square. You should also try their riccia, a pastry stuffed with ricotta cheese. Quite a treat!

Pintauro Will Steal Your Heart With Their Capresinas

They’re not noted for their friendliness but, so what? As minute as it is old – the pastry shop has been open since 1785 – it is famed for its sfogliatelle (a pastry stuffed with ricotta, candied fruit, custard and semolina), zeppole di San Giuseppe (a custard-filled tartlet) and capresinas (heart-shaped chocolate-and-almond pastries). And, yes – they will steal your heart!
(Via Toledo, 275)

Stracciatella Ice-cream at Emilia Cremeria in Pompeii

In case you thought you’d be safe beyond Naples, think again! When visiting the capital of Campania, you’re likely to go sightseeing in the amazing ruins of Pompeii, which was buried under the lava erupting from Mt Vesuvius. After such a long and exhausting outing, you could do with a great reward. In Pompeii’s main square, be sure to try the ice-creams at the Emilia Cremeria. With that creamy name, imagine what their ice-creams must be like, particularly the stracciatella – the epitome of creaminess and yet very light. For the out-and-out sweet-toothed, order it in the traditional style, with the ice-cream nestling in a brioche bun or warm croissant. To die for!

Book your Vueling to Naples, where all these flavours await you!

Text and photos by Laia Zieger of Gastronomistas.com

 

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Five Wonders Less Than an Hour From Rome

When visiting Rome, the last thing that comes to mind is thinking there may be something else beyond that spectacular city. Indeed, you probably won’t even have time to entertain such thoughts. What with its intricate Roman past, its Renaissance glories and its stunning Baroque heritage, one is hard put to imagine anything beyond its boundaries. Nothing could be further from the truth, however, as there is actually life beyond the city limits – and how! Summer villas, time-locked towns and papal refuges await you less than an hour from Rome. Come along and discover them!

Hadrian’s Villa

Our first gem is situated in the environs of Tivoli, some 45 minutes from Rome – an extraordinary villa which served as Hadrian’s retreat. Like Rome’s ruling class, the emperor sought a place in Rome’s environs where he could escape the bustle of the big city. He did not, however, settle for a simple summer house – going a step further, he had the idea of commissioning a model town featuring replicas of some of the buildings he had visited on his travels. This is the case of Canopus, a copy of a shrine in Alexandria, and of Pecile, an imitation of a building in Athens. The Maritime Theatre is one of the most emblematic constructions in the complex. It features a small villa set on an island in the middle of an artificial lake.

Villa d’Este

Another jewel in the area, located in the centre of Tivoli, is this Renaissance villa, originally a Benedictine convent, which in the 16th century was converted into a palace by Ippolito II d'Este, the son of Lucrezia Borgia. In addition to the building and its rooms, decorated with frescoes in fine taste, its standout feature are the stunning gardens, housing no fewer than 500 fountains! The most striking ensemble is a row of one hundred fountains known as the Fountain of Neptune – which also has a spectacular waterfall – and a fountain with a hydraulic organ that emits sounds.

Villa Gregoriana

Hard by the Villa d’Este is this wonderful park commissioned by Pope Gregory XVI in 1835. Built on the bed of the river Aniene, its most striking feature is a large waterfall, created by diverting the river to protect the area from flooding. Among the lush vegetation in the Villa, which affords some lovely views, stand the archaeological remains of the Temple of Vesta, built in the 1st century BC.

Ostia Antica

Situated 30 kilometres from Rome, near the mouth of the river Tiber, stands the archaeological site of Ostia Antica, once an important port. Founded in the 4th century BC, it was a major trade and defence enclave in ancient Rome. With the fall of the Roman Empire, the city went into decline, while continual invasions and a malaria epidemic led it to be abandoned. The city was buried under river sediments for centuries and has survived to the present in fairly good condition, although less so than Pompeii or Herculaneum. Wandering through what is left of its streets, temples, thermal baths, houses and shops, it is not difficult to imagine what its splendorous past must have been like.

Frascati and Castelgandolfo

Lastly, we have singled out these two beautiful locations in the Alban Hills which form part of the municipal comune known as the Castelli Romani (Castles of Rome). The picturesque town of Frascati is celebrated for its white wine and its villas, commissioned by Popes, cardinals and nobles of Rome as of the 16th century. One such construction is the spectacular Villa Aldobrandini, also known as Belvedere, designed by Giacomo della Porta and completed by Carlo Maderno.

Located on the shores of Lake Albano stands Castelgandolfo, celebrated above all for being the Pope’s summer residence. Although not open to visitors, it is worth strolling around the town centre and soaking up the views.

Book your Vueling to Rome and venture beyond the city’s limits to see some of these sites.

Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Images by Aquilifer, Adrian Pingstone, M.Maselli, Alexander Mooi, CucombreLibre, Alessandro Malatesta, Polybert49, Sudika, MatthiasKabel

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Fine Design In Palma

Majorca is one of the pearls of the Mediterranean. Over the years, the island has drawn from its traditional resources to reinvent itself in line with current trends. No wonder, then, that it is one of Spain’s design meccas. This is where the Camper footwear brand was born, and the painter, Miquel Barceló, too. It was also the destination of such artists as Joan Miró and the pianist, Frédéric Chopin. This thirst for creation and good taste has led its capital, Palma, to build up a bountiful network of shops, restaurants, bars and hotels which can wreak havoc on the unsuspecting design lover. From the old town to the grass-roots quarter of Santa Catalina, from the classical to the most genuine vintage, one things emerges clearly – Palma is design.

1. In Progress
In the heart of Santa Catalina lies the store run by Sonia and Jesús, two enfants terribles of vintage who specialise in artefacts from the fifties to the eighties. Here you will find anything from chairs and lamps to Pontesa crockery, Arcoroc glasses and old Palma shop counters. With special emphasis on “Made in Spain”, on many a Saturday they organise aperitif concerts and exhibitions by local artists.

2. Rialto Living
As soon as you set foot in Rialto Living you will feel as though you’re in the chic venues of Capri or the Hamptons. This “living store” is housed in an old palace in the city’s historic centre and its offerings range from furniture and art to books, fashion and a restaurant. Old and modern mingle in the ambience, with that Mediterranean flourish we are so fond of.

3. Frida Watson
Seen from the shop window, items in the Frida Watson collection confirm love at first sight. This store in Santa Catalina features pure Scandinavian design from the fifties to the seventies in harmony with Vitra clocks, Murano glass and retro lamps that resemble flying saucers.

4. Hotel Cort
The work of interior designer, Lázaro Rosa-Violán, Hotel Cort is one of the most elegant in town. Perfect lighting, hydraulic flooring and island colours compound a blend of elements that can make your head swim. Further, the sophisticated hotel restaurant is the ideal spot for a quiet dinner with your partner.

5. La Pecera
Few places can reconcile mid-20th-century European furniture with vintage and contemporary Majorcan items so deftly. La Pecera is a small but alluring store where you can find lamps, designer furniture, decorative items and craftwork. C/ Victoria, 4

6. Ariela Schönberg Vintage Collective
German furniture is one of Ariela Schönberg’s fortes. This, one of the latest shops to open in Santa Catalina, features designer artefacts and anonymous furniture from the whole continent.

7. Posada Terra Santa
Despite its rather solemn name, the Posada Terra Santa (Holy Land Inn) is one of the loveliest hotels in Palma. Housed in a 16th-century palace, its 26 rooms display a blend of history and modernity with comfort. Additionally, their swimming pool, with views of the Cathedral, is the perfect spot for chilling out and letting yourself get drawn in by the city’s charm.

8. Sa Costa
Sa Costa is a classic in Palma. Their antiques show wonderfully next to vintage formica, plastic and iron. As soon as you enter the shop, you realise you could spend hours admiring the dozens of furniture pieces and other items that people this store in the city centre. Costa de Sa Pols, 7A

9. Patrón Lunares
The classic essence of the Mediterranean arrives in Palma, skippered by the Patrón Lunares tavern and their chef, Javier Bonet. A pretty venue decorated with hydraulic floor tiles, iron columns and retro furniture where you can eat good seafood and enjoy the island’s flavours.

10. Galería Veintinueve
Now in their recently opened new premises, Galería Veintinueve continues to be a hit, with their dual facet of contemporary art exhibition centre and venue for large 20th-century pieces by such designers as Jacobsen, Scarpa and Colombo. The store and patio are spectacular and the collection of art and furniture will leave you impressed.

11.  Viveca
Antiquities, ceramics, textiles and lots of vintage – this is the essence of Viveca Palma, where Íñigo Güell and Ingrid Iturralde have unveiled a store featuring 18th-century Swedish furniture and iconic 20th-century furniture. A real pleasure.

12. Louis 21
Upcoming artists jostle to exhibit their creations in Louis 21, one of the leading springboards for promoting the careers of emerging artists. With another gallery in Madrid, their philosophy is to elicit interaction with the public and the collaborative urge.

Come in search of fine design in the Balearic capital – check out your Vueling here.

Text by Aleix Palau for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Images by Aleix Palau

 

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On the Trail of Van Gogh

Located in the south of France, an hour’s drive from Marseilles and alongside the Rhone, Arles is a town you really must see if you’re heading to Provence. And, if you’re also a fan of Van Gogh, you have even more reasons to rediscover the landscapes and architectures that inspired the grand master in his Post-Impressionist painting.

Arles’ Roman Past

You cannot possibly visit this town without becoming steeped in its Roman heritage. In AD 46, as a reward for having supported Julius Caesar is his struggle against Pompey, Arles was turned into the major harbour in the area, a privilege which was withdrawn from Massilia (the former Marseilles), for having mistakenly supported the opposite side. As a result, the town then lived out its age of splendour, of which several monuments have survived the test of time, some still in excellent condition. One example is the Arles Arenas, an amphitheatre built around the 1st century AD for staging gladiator combats, the most spectacular show at the time. It is still used today, as it hosts theatre plays, concerts, bullfights and courses camarguaises (a typically local type of bullfighting). The 1st-century AD Roman Theatre is another standout monument in the city. Like all Roman cities, Arles also had its forum, the centre of the community’s social, political and religious life. In addition to the nomenclature, Place du Forum, it features an underground Cryptoporticus, a network of galleries where foundations were laid and which is open to visitors, accessed via the Hôtel de la Ville.

Other Sights in the Town

The Church of St. Trophime, located in the town hall square, is a classic example of Provençal Romanesque and Gothic. Built between the 12th and 15th century, its cloister is also well worth visiting. Another interesting sight is the Alyscamps, A Roman necropolis which was taken over by the Christians and used until the end of the Middle Ages. For those interested in discovering the town’s archaeological history, we can recommend a visit to the Musée Départemental Arles Antique, which features some striking mosaics, among other things.

Arles – the Setting for Van Gogh’s Paintings

Apart from drawing tourists to its monumental heritage, Arles attracts visitors for having being one of the major settings for Van Gogh’s works. The artist’s sojourn in the town was comparatively short – from February 1888 to May 1889 – but there he was hugely prolific, producing over 200 paintings. Captivated by its light and colour, he painted it in all its guises. Curiously enough, not one of these paintings is housed in Arles, but you can still visit all the places that inspired them. We recommend getting a street map – which can be picked up in the tourist office – and letting yourself get carried away. Some of the landmarks on the Van Gogh tour are:

- The Maison Jaune (Yellow House), on the Place Lamartine;

- The “Café la Nuit” (Night Café), on the Place du Forum;

- Arles Arenas and the Alyscamps;

- Trinquetaille Bridge;

- “Starry Night Over the Rhone”;

- “The Old Mill”, on rue Mireille;

- The garden on the Boulevard des Lices;

- The garden of the hospital, known as the Espace Van Gogh (where he was admitted during his illness and where he had his ear stitched back on after cutting it off);

- The Langlois Bridge, also known as the Van Gogh Bridge.

However, Arles did not only serve as Van Gogh’s haunts. Gauguin also visited the town and painted some of its spots. It was precisely on account of an argument between the two painters that Van Gogh ended up cutting off his ear. Another genius, Picasso, also frequented Arles over a number of years. He would often go there to watch bullfighting and to visit his friends. Proof of his close ties to the town is the donation he made of fifty-seven drawings, which can be seen in the Arles Fine Arts Museum, the Musée Réattu.

Ready to take a Vueling and be dazzled by Arles?

 

Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación

Photos by Joan Sorolla, Tristan Taussac, Anne Jacko, Shadowgate, Phillip Capper, Claude Valette

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