Whenever Transylvania is mentioned, the name Dracula springs to mind. Whether for better or for worse, that’s the way it is. Bram Stoker couldn’t have suspected what he was about to unleash when he wrote Dracula, a novel that would go down in history, inspired by the figure of Vlad Tepes. Neither would he have imagined he was going to turn Transylvania – where part of the story unfolds – into a tourist destination for vampire enthusiasts, particularly since his writing was based on literary sources, as he never actually visited the region.

However, when considering a trip to Transylvania, we need to lift the Gothic veil from our eyes and look further afield. Granted, reminders of Vlad Tepes are present, but there are also magnificent landscapes awaiting us, as well as medieval towns with priceless coloured houses, friendly people and the odd medieval castle, which would only conjure up horror stories with a concerted flight of the imagination.

Brasov

Transylvania is famed for having the best preserved medieval towns in Europe, so make sure you visit the historic town of Brasov, packed with charming spots. A major landmark is the Old Town Square (Piata Sfatului), where you can visit the History Museum, housed in the old Town Hall. Another must-see is the Biserica Neagră or Black Church, so called on account of the blackened walls caused by a fire there in 1689. This huge Gothic church, one of the largest in south-eastern Europe, houses an important collection of Turkish rugs hanging from its galleries.

The Fortified Church of Prejmer

This original monument, listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, lies some 18 km from Brasov in Prejmer, a place marked by protracted wars during the Middle Ages, owing to its proximity to the border. The fortified church, dating from the 13th century, attests to the turmoil of those times. It has 4-metre-thick walls rising 12 metres, rendering it impregnable to the 50 times it was besieged. The precinct provided shelter for the townsfolk during military assaults, with rooms to lodge in and defensive towers which also acted as storage areas for provisions.

Bran Castle

In the mountains of Bucegi and Piatra Craiului, some 30 km from Brasov, stands one of the most visited landmarks in Transylvania. This castle is usually associated with the figure of Vlad Tepes, and it was mistakenly said to be his place of residence. We owe this confusion to Bram Stoker, who turned it into Dracula’s residence in his novel. That is why it is popularly thought to be Dracula’s castle. Aside from the world of vampires, this castle, built by the Saxons in 1382, is well worth the visit, with much of its splendour remaining intact.

Poenari Castle

Those who wish to see the true place of residence of Vlad the Impaler should visit this castle. It was built in the early-13th century and abandoned in the mid-17th. Unlike the previous castle, this one lies partly in ruins and access is rather more difficult, as you have walk up no less than 1,500 stairs! However, once at the top, the spectacular view of the Carpathian Mountains more than makes up for the effort.

Sighisoara

Situated in the centre of Romania, in the Transylvanian Carpathians, this is a popular tourist resort, and not only for being the birthplace of Vlad Tepes. Sighisoara has a well preserved, fortified medieval citadel, which has deservedly earned its designation as a World Heritage site. Fourteen of the original fortified towers are still standing. You should also visit the Clocktower, and go up to the top to see the view over the town. And, needless to say, those in search of the gruesome past can visit what is believed to be the house where Vlad the Impaler was born.

Sibiu

Founded by Saxon settlers in the 12th century, it is one of Transylvania’s major economic and cultural hubs. Sited on the banks of the river Cibin, it has an Old Town redolent with cobbled streets, medieval houses, large squares, cafés and remains of the original fortified wall. Sibiu is divided into the Upper Town and Lower Town, the latter featuring the most interesting landmarks. Make sure you visit the Piaţa Mare or Great Square, housing one of Romania’s paramount Baroque monuments, the Brukenthal Palace. Other sights include the Piaţa Mică or Small Square, and the Huet Square, surrounded by mainly Gothic buildings, most notably the Lutheran Evangelical Cathedral.

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Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación

Images by Dennis Jarvis, Camil Ghircoias, Alexandru Panoiu, Daniel Tellman

Recently landed in Budapest, the Pearl of the Danube, we enter one of the most romantic cities of Eastern Europe with countless opportunities to enjoy our stay. If you’re asking yourself where to start, we have 7 essential sights to see during your visit:

1.- Admire the most emblematic monuments

The worlds third largest Parliament, a symbolic landmark of Budapest rises imposingly on Kossuth Sqaure, boasting a neo-Gothic style. The latter, together with the Buda Castle, an old residence of the kings of Hungary and Budapest’s oldest Chain Bridge define the personality of this city, which was indeed a major power during the Austro Hungarian Empire.

2.- Discover the Art Noveau

 Budapest is known for its numerous examples of art noveau architecture, a slightly peculiar style that intertwines elements of nature, asymmetrical shapes and sinuous curves, which decorate the facades of the buildings in the streets. The architectural merit of such exaltation is largely attributable to Ödön Lechner, also known as the “Hungarian Gaudí”, whose most famous work corresponds to the Royal Postal Savings Bank, which is full of floral patterns, colourful mosaics and some components of popular culture. Villa Balázs Sipeky and the Institute of Geology are other notable samples of the work of this brilliant architect. Our favourite example of art noveau is Walkó House, because of its facade, decorated with eight different varieties of animals.

3.- Relax your body in the Széchenyi Baths

Budapest has numerous thermal spas and baths for whenever you want to take a day of rest and revitalization after a long walk around the city. Széchenyi is the most majestic and largest spa in Europe, with fifteen indoor pools, ten saunas and steam rooms and three large outdoor swimming pools. It is common to see locals enjoying the spas, as they are a nice meeting point to chat.

4.- Go for a drink to the Bars of the ruins

If you want to immerse yourself in the most modern and happening Hungarian underground scene, you cannot escape from Budapest without going to one of these bars, which are located in old buildings, with a slightly worn out and decadent look but decorated in such a way that the vintage kitch look makes them very special. The best atmosphere in the city is definitely found in these bars, which are decorated with all kinds of Antique furniture, extravagant paintings and curious objects. We recommend the legendary Szimpla Kert Kazincy Street; the Instant bar, decorated like the wild west movies or the chaotic Púder, where there are also theatre performances and dj sets at night. 

5.- Visit the Muvesz Mozi Cinema

Budapest is known for its rich film culture, so it is definitely worth stopping by to visit one of their alternative cinemas. Intellectuals and big screen lovers residing in the capital visit Muvesz Mozi, where they show a large variety of movies- from old films that where made five years ago to recent independent films made by new and upcoming directors. In addition, this special cinema has a very cool café, decorated with different atmospheres to fit the different spaces, making you feel like a traveller through time and space.

6.- Visit the Sziklakorhaz museum, a hospital and secret bunker

This spectacular museum housed in what was once a hospital adjacent to a nuclear bunker in Budapest during World War II shows, in an extremely real and almost scary way, what was once experienced within these underground walls. The various facilities and rooms for the wounded, wax mannequins, medical devices and even the possibility to activate the emergency alarm at the end of the tunnel give you an idea of what happened, even if it mean getting goose bumps!

7.- Try the cuisine

The Central Market is one of the greatest culinary references in the city, where you can taste the typical traditional goulash or buy fresh groceries to cook at home. Kosher sweets are also a Hungarian specialty, we recommend the ones at Cukrászda Fröhlich. Last but not least, you must try the bread and butter with paprika and onion, which is served at any bar or restaurant. If you like spicy food, Budapest is the perfect place for your palate.

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Picture by teofilo

Seville is home to a special colour, wonderful people, genuine bars and well kept secrets like the Market in calle Feria. Seville is brimming with magic, charm, spirit and Andalusian pride like very few other Mediterranean cities. Everyone who lives there feels very proud to be Sevillian and would never swap their city for any other. It doesn’t matter if you are a native of Seville or have just arrived from another part of the world, the important thing is to be Sevillian, to feel like a Sevillian and to die a Sevillian.

Let’s discover a part of Seville recommended to us by the festival organisers Territorios Sevilla, the Seville of the Encarnación district, the Market in calle Feria.

1. Plaza de la Encarnación

We start in the Plaza de la Encarnación, known locally as “plaza de la seta” (mushroom square).
On the day we visited and just like in many other squares in other Spanish cities, a silent and peaceful protest was taking place by the so-called 15-M movement. The Sevillians are proud of this square to which they have given the nickname ‘la plaza de la seta’ and it is the gateway to the Encarnación district. We head to the market in calle Feria because Maider from Territorios Sevilla has recommended it as the perfect spot to savour the local tapas. The area is very well known amongst Seville’s local population and it is off the usual beaten tourist tracks.

2. Reinas

As we head in the direction of the market, we stumble across a place that forces us to make a stop. The place in question is called Reinas and has a very stylish type of wine cellar. We chat with Antonio who tells us a little bit about the philosophy of Reinas. The general concept is to suggest good wines and offer cold dishes that complement the wine being recommended. At Reinas, it is the wine that defines the food – not the other way around. Antonio is a lover of wine and food and it could be said he belongs to the good living club.

3.Un Gato en Bicicleta

Continuing along the same street a bit further on we come across a book shop specialising in art: Un Gato en Bicicleta.

4. Botellas y Latas

It seems like we have embarked on a journey down the perfect street, two special places within metres of each other. This is confirmed when just a little way further down the street we find Botellas y Latas and between the owner Carlos and his local Sevillian customers, we learn about the marvels of the place: Botellas y Latas is another of Seville’s hidden treasures definitely worth a visit.

5. Casa Vizcaíno

Between the warmth of the Sevillian people and the heat of the sun, a stop for a cool beer en route to the calle Feria Market is an absolute must. Casa Vizcaíno is the ideal spot to try an Andalusian beer. The place is spectacular with its carpet of peanut shells on the floor, thus making it as one of those highly recommendable, traditional bars to be found in the Andalusian capital.

6. Mercado de la Calle Feria

Finally we arrive at the Calle Feria Market and it seems like we have found the perfect location to eat in Seville. Good food, warm people, welcoming surroundings, informal and grilled sardines to die for. Worth mentioning is the stall we had something to eat at, the Bar La Cantina with its exquisite food, friendly service, wonderful terrace and the lovely warm ambience among its clientele.

The sun beats down and following the directions given to us by the locals, we return to the plaza de la Encarnación by a different route where we discover more authentic shops in the Andalusian capital, a good old fashioned chocolate shop called El Comercio and a charming square called la plaza del Pan where you can sit in the shade and enjoy a good cup of coffee.

Image: Liu Yu Cheng

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Iceland is prolific in place-names which are difficult to pronounce, recall and, of course, spell. Landmannalaugar is one of these but, once you have travelled to this oasis nestling in multi-coloured mountains, where spouting thermal springs, sulphurous vapours and fumaroles melt the ice, this musical, fifteen-letter name becomes a simple word you will never forget. On the contrary – each time you utter it, hear it or read it, you will be transported to that natural paradise which has irremediably become part of your very existence.

Landscapes From Another Planet

Here, in this remote spot, which can only be reached in a 4x4 vehicle – in summer, several 4x4 buses ply the route daily from Hella – begins one of the most popular and spectacular hiking trails in the country and, indeed, on the planet.

Officially, it is known as Laugavegur, which translates roughly to “thermal waters route”. It is usually negotiated from north to south for a distance of 56 km as far as Þórsmörk. The hike then continues another 26 km from there to Skógar along a trail known as Fimmvörðuháls. Along this route, which takes from 4 to 6 days, endless scenic surprises await the traveller, from rhyolite mountains with indescribable colours to fields of fumaroles, glaciers and waterfalls, and deserts of lava and active volcanoes.

Accessible Stages

Laugavegur is the most popular stretch of the trail and is divided into four accessible stages of from 12 to 15 km, with stopovers at Hrafntinnusker, Álftavatn, Emstrur and Þórsmörk. Experienced walkers can complete two stages in one go as there are few slopes and the daylight hours are particularly long in the northern summer. Þórsmörk has a station for 4x4 buses so you can take one back to Hella.

Continuing along the Fimmvörðuháls trail from the Þórsmörk valley, the slope becomes steeper and some areas are more exposed and windswept. This stretch can be divided into two spectacular stages with a stopover at the Fimmvörðuháls shelter. This stage is probably one of the most amazing ones in trekking. It takes you past the Mýrdallsjokull and Eyjafjallajokull glaciers, and across a lava field that emerged during the famous 2010 eruption – which grounded so many flights – culminating in a long descent on which you can admire a total of 24 spectacular waterfalls, with the legendary Skógafoss as the final flourish.

Practical Guide

Dates: Open from June to September.

Difficulty: In good weather, the route is easy as far as Þórsmörk, and moderate up to Skógar.

Weather: Weather conditions in the Icelandic Highlands can change drastically in a few hours, even in summer. You should keep checking the weather report at shelters and abide by warnings issued by rangers and the shelter managers.

Navigation: The route is signposted in early summer with yellow stakes placed every few metres. In the event of being overtaken by fog or bad weather, it is useful to have GPS with route tracking. However, bear in mind that the route can vary slightly from year to year, particularly at river crossings.

Gear: Essential to have mountain footwear and warm clothing.

Food: There are no restaurants or grocery stores anywhere along the trail, and they do not serve food in the emergency shelters. However, you can pay for camping or an overnight with a credit card. Thus, you have to be self-sufficient and stock up with all the food you are going to need during the hike (reckon on a minimum of 1 kg per person per day).

A Roof Over Your Head: You need to book in advance to sleep at the shelters along the route. For certain summer dates, this requires booking several months ahead and the trekking agencies usually hog most of the available places.

Camping: There are camping areas around the shelters and they are always pay sites. You don’t need to book ahead, however. Some have showers and rubbish collection. Others only have drinking water and toilets. It is advisable to take a light tent that can withstand strong winds.

Rivers: Avoid crossing rivers at their narrowest point, as that is where they are deepest. You should wear tightly-fitting waterproof sandals to prevent them being ripped off by the current.

Guided Treks: If you prefer to travel light – without having to carry food or camping equipment – want to ensure a reservation in the shelters along the way and enjoy the company of a guide, the specialised agency Tierras Polares covers the whole route in July and August in the course of an 8-day trip, of which six days are spent trekking. Prices from €1,595.

Day Tour All Year Around: You can also visit Landmannalaugar on a Super Jeep Tour. The super jeep is a 4x4 vehicle with oversize tyres which can take you into the Highlands any time of the year, and pick-up is at your hotel in Reykjavik. Price per person: ISK 35,000 (€250).

Venture into the wonderland of the Icelandic Highlands – book your Vueling to Reykjavik here.

Text and photos by Sergio Fernández Tolosa & Amelia Herrero Becker (Con un par de ruedas)