Tell me what you eat and I will tell you where to go in Jerusalem
You want to eat local produce? Head for the Mahane Yehuda market, where you will find all the locally sourced commodities: fresh, sweet, fleshy dates, grains, seeds, spices, nuts, heaps of dried fruit, olives of all kinds, tahini (a paste made from toasted, ground sesame seeds – go to the specialists at the Halva Kingdom stall), local craft beer (in the Beer Bazaar), confectionery… You will come across over 250 quaint stalls in this market, also known as “The Shuk”. And, like any Middle Eastern market, it greets visitors with a blast of aromas, colours and an unusual, amusing chaos which we’re very fond of. Mahane Yehuda Street.
You want to eat hummus? No Israeli table can afford to be without this dish, based on mashed chickpeas, just like tahini. And, when you taste it, you will succumb to its intense flavour and eminently smooth, creamy and compelling texture. One of the most popular hummus dishes can be had at Rahmo, a traditional-cuisine, self-service eatery which, more than vintage, might be described as shabby. But, as is often the case in such traditional spots, their homemade cuisine is marvellous. Their hummus, based on a secret recipe which requires days of careful preparation, is served with a generous layer of virgin olive oil and large helpings of pita bread which you will never stop dipping. At Rahmo you could also try the kubbeh hamusta soup (ox meat and semolina cooked in a vegetable and lemon broth), and a variation with beetroot, both great local specialities. 5 Ha-Eshkol.
You want international cuisine? Menza, one of the prettiest and most modern eateries in Jerusalem, offers great contemporary cuisine with a nod to the world at large. It is located in a pleasant pedestrian precinct, adjoining the Fine Arts faculty, given over to a craft street market and buskers which liven up a sojourn on their terrace, where you can enjoy lunch or brunch. The inside features warm interior design, in line with contemporary taste. Their menu boasts the international dishes currently in vogue, including ceviche, tartare and kebab, prepared using locally sourced ingredients. 10 Bezalel.
You want an ice-cream? We can safely say that Mousseline is possibly one of the best ice-cream parlours in the world. A small establishment, the only thing it can boast about are its exquisite sorbets and ice-creams, which truly taste of the flavours they are advertised as. The options are highly varied and include both classic and unusual flavours – masala chai, saffron, cream cheese and red fruit, dark chocolate, almonds, rose water… We recommend the coffee and the vanilla ice-creams, as well as the lemon and mint sorbet. 6Ha-Eshkol Street.
You want to have pita bread or challah? According to those in the know, the best pita bread and challah – a traditional braided bread eaten on the Sabbath – is baked in Nechama’s Bakery. Opened in 1910, the bakery also churns out pastries, buns and different types of bread almost incessantly in full view of their customers. It is located in the Mea Shearim district and the aroma that wafts out of the oven is mouth-watering. Haside Pinsk-Karlin.
You want a typical breakfast? Modish Israelis have been seized by brunch fever. So, why not keep up with the times and indulge in this ritual? At Kadosh, with its ultra-cool air, which has remained open since 1967, you will find a broad variety of international dishes and confectionery. Above all, though, you will be able to taste their shakshuka. This traditional dish consists of fried eggs cooked over a slow fire in sautéed tomato and assorted vegetables. It is served with bread, varied salads and – needless to say – the ever-present hummus and tahini. Ideal for a brunch on their very cute terrace. 6 Queen Shlomziyon Street.
You want a falafel? The star of national street food, it is made of chickpeas, garlic, parsley, spices, olive oil, onion, cilantro and yeast. At Moshiko Falafel, a take-away establishment, you can savour one of the best falafels in Jerusalem – or in all Israel, according to die-hard devotees – served in pita bread and laced with yoghurt or tahini, gherkins and crudités. They are rich enough to sit in your stomach throughout a long stroll across the city and its cultural and historical sites. 5 Ben Yehuda.
Don’t miss out on Jerusalem’s delicious culinary offerings – book your Vueling to Tel Aviv here.
Text and photos by Laia Zieger of Gastronomistas.com
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Four Must Visit Gastrobars in Seville
That Seville is famous for its tapas is a well-known fact. But the city also happens to be riding on a burgeoning culinary wave and, instead of just limiting itself to culinary tradition, it has jumped onto the internationally inspired bandwagon of carefree, innovative and excellent process of reinvention, as well as implementing novel techniques and flourishes of modernity.
Lalola – A Gourmet Tavern
I should perhaps dare introduce this restaurant as one of the best in Seville. Tasting the creations served up in this self-proclaimed “gourmet tavern” is well worth the long walk, as it is located far from the bustle of the city centre in the quarter of Los Remedios. Lalola is the domain of chef Javier Abascal, a youngster you are sure to hear about in the coming years. And, it’s just as well. His menu is an ode to his four loves – quality product, cooking over a slow fire, reminiscences of Sephardic cuisine and offal, which has its own section on the menu, allowing you to taste anything from boned pig trotters with creamy potatoes to beef sweetbread with aniseed crumble and bamboo or monkfish foie gras. But, it doesn’t stop there, as the other shared dishes provide another surprise – organic chickpea hummus, La Vera red peppers and sesame, tuna tartare and algae noodles… Average ticket: €20 per head.
Mercado Lonja del Barranco – Variety For All Tastes
Go inside Mercado Lonja del Barranco and you can watch dapper gentlemen arriving in what is possibly the trendiest spot in Seville, with its Nordic, vintage aesthetic. Quite a shock after having strolled through the old Jewish quarter and come across a religious procession in the Triana neighbourhood. But, it rocks, as its taste lies in the variety. And, here, there is variety in abundance, highly recommendable for the hesitant, for foodies eager to taste a bit of everything and for parties of guests. Mercado Lonja del Barranco offers over 150 dishes, both local and international. Here, it’s no easy task deciding from among such a broad selection. I can recommend dipping into the seafood section and trying the typical shrimp omelette. Likewise the gourmet salmorejo stand, where you can taste the different varieties of this local speciality, and the cut ham stand… Tickets from €3.
Séptimo Wine Bar
Séptimo, because seven is a lucky number. And, Isabel and Floriant, the Hispano-French couple who run this locale, seem to have hit the jackpot. Some luck in it, of course, but you can’t detract from their job well done, driven as they are by a tireless passion, which you notice as soon as they start talking about a tuna fish in the kitchen with a sparkle in its eyes. Indeed, they have managed to continually fill to capacity their small, inviting premises ever since they first opened just over a year ago. Their offerings are gourmet tapas, “inspired by whatever”, accompanied by “whichever wine goes well”. That is how Isabel puts it and she adds, in the Sevillian accent we have grown to love, “we make our own style of tasty food”. Hats off to their duck pie, marinated tuna or tartare, the three dishes they rate as the star items on the menu and which are virtually always in stock, while the rest of the offerings are seasonal. Now, for instance, you can taste a marvellous sautéed artichoke with pumpkin, field mushrooms and presa ibérica (Iberian shoulder of pork), highly tender lamb nuggets in sweet potato sauce and the pièce de résistance – a milk torrija (French toast) served with a ball of ice-cream likely to make you shed more than one tear. Average ticket: €20 for two.
Perro Viejo – International Fusion
There just had to be a hipster sanctuary in Seville, and that is Perro Viejo. Located in the heart of the Andalusian capital and inaugurated just two years ago, this stunning, three-storey tapas bar features ultra-cool, ultra-modern, ultra-gorgeous interior design – everything is wood, iron and greenery, clearly inspired by an industrial aesthetic. Here, the tapas are a blend of tradition and international fusion (there are distinct Thai, Japanese and Peruvian influences in their cuisine), with the emphasis on new culinary trends, as evinced in their exquisite Japanese butterfish tataki, pulpo a feira (Galician-style octopus) with migas, organic egg and Iberian broth, glazed pork dumplings with chilli vinaigrette, charcoaled papas bravas (spicy sautéed potatoes) and ceviche (lemon-and-garlic marinade). All of this livened up with a great wine list and, above all, spectacular cocktails. Average ticket: €40 for two.
Book your Vueling to Seville and gear up to savour the best gastrobars in town.
Text by Laia Zieger of Gastronomistas.com
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Lanzarote Eat Like a King Amid Volcanoes and Palm Trees
As far as taste goes, Lanzarote tastes really good. It offers enclaves secluded from mass tourism where you can eat marvellous dishes that would wow any modern urbanite in search of authenticity, quality and good taste. Here are five eateries you simply cannot pass up.
Sol
This restaurant, with a terrace sitting right on the beach sand, is located in the priceless Caleta de Famara, a surfing spot with an island ambience, the architecture and spirit of which will immediately take you back to the white villages of Cádiz. Here you will enjoy home cooking in the finest sense, a breath of fresh air for anyone who is tired of the modishness prevailing in practically all corners of the big capitals. Sol is the place to book a table overlooking the sea and savour grilled fresh fish, accompanied by some traditional Lanzarote dish. If you’re looking for creative Canary Island cuisine and somewhat more sophistication, a few yards away is El Risco – an upcoming Michelin star?
Lost Paradise
If you hankering after the magical, alternative touch, be sure to contact Bruno, the life and soul of Lost Paradise, a small company based in Lanzarote which organises customised activities. He will take you sailing off the beautiful beaches of El Papagayo and invite you to join him fishing. Later, he will light his barbecue, prepare some amazing salad, open a bottle of wine or some beers and cook whatever he has caught earlier on. An unforgettable experience, in which you will savour produce that melts in the mouth and then take a nap on the high seas.
El Fondeadero
The first sign that gets you thinking El Fondeadero de Teguise must be the place to be is that it is frequented by locals – mainly workmen from the area. And, when you see their spectacular charcoaled fish, prawn in earthenware dishes and numerous tapas crafted with food from the sea, you will be in no doubt that you’ve hit the jackpot. You settle down at a table in this aesthetically plain yet pretty, happy and sunlit restaurant and go through the menu, which will surprise you for its really affordable prices. Avenida Los Corales 22 (Teguise)
El Caletón
Pressing on with freshly caught fish and a restaurant – like the previous one – frequented by locals, El Caletón is hidden in a corner of El Golfo island and affords beautiful views of the sea. Its secret lies in providing top quality raw material, extremely fresh fish and seafood accompanied by traditional starters, salads and other offerings, good local wines and a service brimming with hospitality and proximity. Their large sea-facing patio means that guests with children can while away the afternoon glass in hand, with the lapping waves in the background, while the kids bask in the splendid temperatures that Lanzarote is blessed with all year around, among other things. Avenida Marítima 66 (El Golfo)
Jameos del Agua
While this is the mainstream offering in our list, it is by no means less alluring. Jameos del Agua is the island’s number one tourist attraction, with the permission of the magnificent Timanfaya National Park. This is a spatial construction worked over a series of natural grottoes by the Lanzarote artist, César Manrique, located inside a volcanic tunnel produced by the eruption of La Corona Volcano. It features a priceless café set in a beautiful yet disturbing lunar landscape, the ideal spot for taking a breather to enjoy the silence and the views.
Staying the Night
Spice
The more broad-minded can book a room in the only hotel in Europe dedicated to swingers. What are the requirements? Those making a booking must be a mixed, male-female, couple who can afford the €300 per night fee for the room and who are not fazed by anything. Because, if you ask the staff what people actually get up to once they cross the threshold of Spice, they answer categorically – Anything goes! What do you mean by anything? “Anything, anywhere, as long as it is consensual”.
Now that we’ve left you open-mouthed with these magnificent offerings, all that’s left it to book your Vueling and experience them.
Text and photos by Laura Conde of Gastronomistas.com
more infoFrom Beach To Beach Along the Camí de Cavalls
Why deny it – one of the main reasons for going to Menorca, albeit not the only one, is its magnificent beaches. They come in all sizes and shapes, suited to all tastes. Some have fine white sand and crystal-clear waters; others, reddish sand, surrounded by pine forests, while still others take the form of comparatively inaccessible, secluded coves. Some are for day-tripping with the kids; others, for the more adventurous…
An alternative way of roaming this small piece of the Mediterranean to seek out its beaches is by hiking along the footpath known as the Camí de Cavalls (Horse Trail), a route that encircles the island and enables ramblers to rim Menorca from tip to toe while taking in spectacular, ever-changing views from one stretch of the coastline to the next. Along this 185-kilometre route you will come across all types of beaches, as well as pasturelands and cultivated land, beautiful, refreshing pine forests, cliffs topped by ever-vigilant lighthouses, old watchtowers, urban precincts and, more importantly, all the magic you can imagine.
The origins of the Camí de Cavalls are hazy. What we do know, however, is that some stretches of the trail were already in use in the 14th century and that the need to defend the island from pirates and possible invasions led to the construction of defensive towers at strategic points, and to the building of a road that would encircle and connect the whole island. It fell into disuse in the 20th century and marked deterioration set in. However, following the enactment of the “Camí de Cavalls Law” in the year 2000, the footpath was repaired, restored and signposted, turning it into a veritable landmark for tourists and locals alike, as from there Menorca can be enjoyed in all its splendour and scenic variety.
The best time of year to venture along the trail is in spring or autumn, when the temperatures are milder and the route is less crowded. It is best negotiated on foot, although there are many stretches which can be comfortably covered by bicycle or on horseback, a tribute to the animal that gave the trail its name. Whatever way you undertake the trip, there are a number of basic recommendations you should follow, like wearing a hat to protect against the sun, or taking sufficient food and water with you, as not all beaches and coves you encounter along the way have a beach hut where you can refuel and, when you do find them, they are likely to be closed if you’re hiking off season.
The Camí de Cavalls is divided into 20 stages. Those in the north are more difficult to negotiate as the terrain is more arid, while the southern legs are more suitable for a family outing.
Stage 1: Mahón-Es Grau
Duration: 3 h 30 min, Distance: 10 km, Difficulty: Medium
Stage 2: Es Grau-Favàritx
Duration: 3 h 30 min, Distance: 8.6 km, Difficulty: Medium
Stage 3: Favàritx-Arenal d’en Castell
Duration: 5 h, Distance: 13.6 km, Difficulty: Medium
Stage 4: Arenal d’en Castell-Cala Tirant
Duration: 4 h, Distance: 10.8 km, Difficulty: Low
Stage 5: Cala Tirant-Binimel·là
Duration: 4 h, Distance: 9.6 km, Difficulty: Medium
Stage 6: Binimel·là-Els Alocs
Duration: 5 h, Distance: 8.9 km, Difficulty: High
Stage 7: Els Alocs-Algaiarens
Duration: 4 h 30 min, Distance: 9.7 km, Difficulty: Medium
Stage 8: Algaiarens-Cala Morell
Duration: 2 h 10 min, Distance: 5.4 km, Difficulty: Medium
Stage 9: Cala Morell-Punta Nati
Duration: 3 h, Distance: 7 km, Difficulty: Low
Stage 10: Punta Nati-Ciudadela
Duration: 4 h, Distance: 10.5 km, Difficulty: Low
Stage 11: Ciudadela-Punta de Artrutx
Duration: 5 h, Distance: 13.2 km, Difficulty: Low
Stage 12: Punta de Artrutx-Cala en Turqueta
Duration: 5 h, Distance: 13.3 km, Difficulty: Medium
Stage 13: Cala en Turqueta-Cala Galdana
Duration: 2 h 30 min, Distance: 6.4 km, Difficulty: Low
Stage 14: Cala Galdana-Sant Tomàs
Duration: 4 h 30 min, Distance: 10.8 km, Difficulty: Medium
Stage 15: Sant Tomàs-Son Bou
Duration: 2 h 30 min, Distance: 6.4 km, Difficulty: Low
Stage 16: Son Bou-Cala en Porter
Duration: 3 h 30 min, Distance: 8 km, Difficulty: Medium
Stage 17: Cala en Porter-Binisafúller
Duration: 4 h 30 min, Distance: 11.8 km, Difficulty: Low
Stage 18: Binisafúller-Punta Prima
Duration: 3 h 30 min, Distance: 8.1 km, Difficulty: Low
Stage 19: Punta Prima-Cala de Sant Esteve
Duration: 2 h 40 min, Distance: 7.3 km, Difficulty: Low
Stage 20: Cala de Sant Esteve-Mahón
Duration: 2 h 20 min, Distance: 6 km, Difficulty: Low
After learning about this valuable part of Menorca’s historical and cultural heritage, all that’s left is to book your Vueling and experience it for yourself!
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by Franco Vannini
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