The Imprint of Miró in Palma de Mallorca
One of the things that struck us most about Palma is the marked presence of art, and not only in art galleries. We saw sculptures scattered about everywhere so, take note – when you’re strolling around streets and parks, you’re likely to bump into works by such renowned artists as Chillida (at the end of the Rambla), Calder (S’Hort del Rei) or Oppenheim (his “Upside Down Church”, located in the Porta de Santa Catalina, is amazing).
But, king of them all, as far as art is concerned, is undoubtedly Joan Miró. The Catalan artist had strong ties to Palma. He spent the last 27 years of his life on the island of Majorca, where he produced one third of his entire oeuvre. Indeed, you can still feel his presence in Palma, 34 years after his death. And, in many instances, we came across creations of his incorporated into modern architectural ensembles, as in Es Baluard, The Pilar i Joan Miró Foundation and the Parc de la Mar. We spent a weekend in Palma, hot on the heels of Miró and, truth be told, we were fascinated by his vast production, still very much in evidence in the Balearic capital.
Miró – Over 50K Followers A Year
When it comes to this great artist, the paramount landmark here is clearly the Pilar i Joan Miró Foundation, which receives more than fifty thousand visitors each year. The venue is unique in that you feel enveloped by Joan Miró’s creative atmosphere, set up by the exhibits, workshops and a natural environment full of inspiration. Miró will also go down in history for his collaborative endeavours with such eminent architects as Josep Lluís Sert, a member of the second generation of architects in the so-called Modern Catalan Movement. Miró coincided with the exiled Sert in Paris after the Spanish Civil War. In 1956, he settled in Majorca, specifically at Son Abrines, where he was fortunate enough to have a magnificent studio designed by his good friend, Sert. The current Foundation building was designed by Rafael Moneo.
The other venue where visitors can enjoy the work of this artistic genius is Es Baluard, Palma’s Museum of Modern and Contemporary Art. On display there are works by the leading artists and movements that converged – and continue to do so – in the Balearic Islands, from the beginning of the 20th century until the present. Their offerings are exhibited in relation to other domestic and international art contexts.
The building, designed by Lluís García-Ruiz, Jaume García-Ruiz, Vicente Tomás and Angel Sánchez Cantalejo, is set on three floors which interact with one another, as well as with the exterior and the city walls, by means of ramps, skylights and large interior balconies, articulated by way of an indoor street complex. But, what most caught our eye was the way the exterior spaces are conceptualised as exhibition areas and walkways via a spectacular path leading along the walled perimeter. The large cistern has also been retained as both an exhibition space and an area for staging activities.
Miró Takes the Laurels in Palma
However, Miró’s presence goes further still. On a stroll through Palma you may come across three creations by the master of the avant-gardes – two sculptures (one on the Avenida Jaume III, near Passeig Mallorca, and the other at the foot of the Royal Palace of the Almudaina) and a mosaic (Parc del Mar). You can also admire two of his works in the Juan March Museum Foundation, namely “Peinture (Femme, Tige, Coeur)” and “Le Perroquet”, both from the interwar period. The Museum is a must-visit if you’re eager to take the pulse of contemporary Spanish art, and is located in an amazing 17th-century palace at number 11 Calle Sant Miquel. Lastly, just 200 metres away stands the Hotel Joan Miró, the only hotel themed around the celebrated contemporary artist, with its rooms and other areas inspired by his work. It also boasts 28 original works by Joan Miró displayed at different spots around the hotel.
Creativity Spreading To Other Disciplines
The omnipresence of art in the city means creativity tends to be everywhere. Even in holy sites, as in the Cathedral, adorned as it is by the creations of modern and contemporary artists, notably Gaudí (Modernist baldachin and pulpit) and Barceló (Chapel of the Most Holy). Design wins out handsomely from this creative urge – a host of studios have sprung up throughout the historic centre, and hotels, too, have jumped on the bandwagon. We can recommend the Nakar Hotel, a member of the select international network of Design Hotels, located on Avenida Jaume III, the city’s major shopping hub, and very near Passeig Mallorca, a strategic area on account of its proximity to the Santa Catalina quarter. Its interior concept and design is the work of Majorcan designer Marta Rotger, who opted for a sober, rationalistic style in its lines and forms. The hotel’s other claim to fame is its CUIT Restaurant, located on the 8th floor, affording spectacular views over all of Palma de Mallorca. And the food is divine, too! Their chef, Miguel Calent, is running on a high and his creations are based on the Majorcan culinary tradition with Mediterranean influences, filtered – we might add – by renewal.
Gear up and steep yourself in the brilliant universe of Joan Miró in Palma de Mallorca. Check out our flights here.
Text and images by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
more infoAlmodóvars Madrid
What can we say about Pedro Almodóvar? Luis Buñuel notwithstanding, he is the internationally best known Spanish film director. His Oscar-award-studded, iconoclastic filmography includes both masterpieces and a large number of highly interesting movies. Like any creator worth his salt – and the Manchegan is one of these – Almodóvar has a pet city that features repeatedly in his films. We are referring to Madrid. In the late seventies he left his native Calzada de Calatrava and journeyed to the capital, Madrid, intent on making his name in cinema. It ended up becoming his favourite set. He has portrayed it in many different ways, revealing both its highlights and shadows, its well-known and its hidden facets. Almodóvar has explored virtually all the streets of his adopted city with a view to heightening the emotions and feelings of his main actors. His fiction breathes life into buildings, streets, establishments, airports, train stations and a long list of other settings.
The director of Volver turned the city into a film set, using to advantage real locations recognizable to his audience and turning some spots into must-visit centres of pilgrimage for his fans. Touring these precincts involves venturing into Almodóvar’s passionate, architectural world, by way of an alternative tourist guide to Madrid. We now retrace some of the most emblematic spots on a route which you can round off by viewing the films directed by the creator of Women on the Verge of a Nervous Breakdown and jotting down new sites in your Almodovarian logbook.
Chicote Museum and La Bobia
One of the two bars that appear in Almodóvar’s films is the Chicote Museum, a chic cocktail bar with an eventful history sited on Madrid’s iconic Gran Vía. It opened in 1930 and its premises have been graced by a considerable number of contemporary stars and Hollywood classics, too. Its interior features in one of the main scenes of Broken Embraces, starring Blanca Portillo. La Bobia is another legendary meeting point in Madrid. It is hard by El Rastro flea market and was once a hotspot of La Movida (The Madrilenian scene). It was actually during those heady times that Almodóvar decided to set the opening scene of Labyrinth of Passion in La Bobia. The movie’s cast was headed by Imanol Arias and Cecilia Roth.
Cuartel del Conde Duque
A must-visit venue to see the spot where one of the Manchegan filmmaker’s most famous scenes was shot – when Carmen Maura takes a night-time shower with a hose in one of his masterpieces, Law of Desire. The scene was filmed in the doorway of the Cuartel del Conde Duque, one of Madrid’s largest and oldest palaces (it was built in 1717), which also boasts a highly valuable cultural and historical endowment. What’s more, once you’ve taken the snapshot de rigueur to relive Almodóvar’s shot, you can go inside and visit it, as it has been turned into a cultural centre featuring various temporary exhibitions throughout the year.
The M-30 Apartment Blocks
Pedro Almodóvar did not restrict himself to capturing only Madrid’s well-known city centre – he also turned his gaze to the suburbs. He did so in one of his best movies, the iconic What Have I Done to Deserve This? in which a long-suffering Carmen Maura is going through hell. She plays a woman who lives in one of the apartment blocks lining the M-30 motorway, a working-class residential area in the district of Moratalaz.
The Segovia Viaduct
One of the natural settings Almodóvar has used most often, both at the beginning of his career and even today. It appears in both Matador and the very recent I'm So Excited. In the latter, Paz Vega stars in an amusing scene shot against this backdrop. The Segovia Viaduct is located in Calle Bailén, near the Royal Palace, and is one of Madrid’s best known bridges.
Be sure to tour these Almodovarian settings – book your Vueling to Madrid here.
Text by Xavi Sánchez for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
more info10 Top Art Museums in Berlin
That Berlin has a daunting variety of cultural resources is a well-known fact. Indeed, it is one of the main reasons for visiting the city. Added to the alternative venues that appear to spring up in the most unlikely spots in town – and not always easy to locate, at that – there are the more official offerings, which include a vast range of museums. Hence, those given to “collecting museums” on their journeys to various cities in the world will face a dilemma when it comes to Berlin – that of having to choose from the huge gamut of museums, housing an overwhelming quality and quantity of works.
The Museum Island
Museum Island (Museumsinsel), as it was re-christened in 1870, takes up the northern half of the island formed by the river Spree on its passage through the city. This is a must-visit destination for any museum buff in Berlin. It contains no fewer than five splendid museums, featuring collections that enable you to travel through art from ancient times to the 19th century. The value of the vast collections here led it to be listed as a World Heritage Site in 1999.
One of the most striking spaces in the complex is the Pergamon Museum, which draws about one million visitors a year. It features a collection of classical antiquities, a museum dedicated to Middle Eastern art, and another devoted to Islamic art. The building was designed to house large-scale artworks, notably its two standout exhibits – the Pergamon Altar and the Ishtar Gate.
The highlight of the Altes Museum (Old Museum) is the building itself. Dating from 1830, it is the work of the architect Karl Friedrich Schinkel, and one of the finest examples of German Neoclassicism. Housed in its interior is a splendid collection of exhibits from classical antiquity.
Sited behind the previous museum is the Neues Museum (New Museum), home to the magnificent collection of the Egyptian Museum of Berlin and the Museum für Vor- und Frühgeschichte (Museum of Prehistory and Early History). Its paramount exhibit is the superlative Nefertiti bust, which attracts a large number of visitors each year.
No less important is the Alte Nationalgalerie (Old National Gallery), a magnet for enthusiasts of 19th-century art, and the Bode Museum, with an endowment that includes sculpture ranging from Byzantine to Italian Gothic to Prussian Baroque, as well as one of the largest numismatic collections in the world.
Gemäldegalerie
The Gemäldegalerie lies west of Potsdamer Platz, within the complex of museums and concert halls making up the Kulturforum (Culture Forum). The gallery houses an excellent collection of paintings by European artists active from the 13th to the 18th century, with works by Dürer, Lucas Cranach the Elder, Hans Holbein, Jan van Eyck, Raphael, Titian, Caravaggio, Rubens, Rembrandt and Johannes Vermeer.
Neue Nationalgalerie
Another of the museums making up the Kulturforum is the Neue Nationalgalerie. Located in the Tiergarten, it is housed in an original building with glassed walls and a spectacular metal roof, the work of the architect Mies van der Rohe. Opened in 1968, this museum specialises in international art from the early 20th century to 1960. Standout features of this collection are the work of the German Expressionists and the Bauhaus.
Martin Gropius Building
Located on the Niederkirchnerstraße, between Checkpoint Charlie and Potsdamer Platz, in a building designed by the great uncle of the architect who founded the Bauhaus, Walter Gropius, this interesting exhibition space is celebrated for its excellent temporary exhibitions.
Berlinische Galerie
Inaugurated in 1975, the Berlinische Galerie is the best option for whoever wishes to take the pulse of art production in Berlin, as its collection features artworks produced in the German capital from 1870 until the present time. It is situated in Kreuzberg, one of the trendiest districts in the city where, if you’re good at getting your bearings, you can unearth the best of the alternative scene.
Berggruen Museum
Lastly, we have also chosen the Berggruen Museum, located opposite Charlottenburg Palace, as it houses exhibits donated by the art collector and dealer Heinz Berggruen. It is a collection of modern art classics with works by Picasso, Matisse, Klee and Giacometti as its major offerings.
Book your Vueling to Berlin and get ready to discover its magnificent museums.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by Lestat, Manfred Brückels, Christoph Rehbach. Rae Allen, Pedelecs, Jean-Pierre Dalbéra
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Ronda – The Dream City
The name Ronda inevitably conjures up pictures of its lofty Puente Nuevo (New Bridge) and spectacular bullring. Situated in the north-west of Málaga province, in the beautiful natural setting of the Serranía de Ronda range, it is the ideal spot for a weekend getaway.
In the course of its history, Ronda has been conquered by Celts, Iberians, Phoenicians, Greeks, Carthaginians, Romans, Arabs and Berbers, as evinced in the city’s rich heritage. It was also occupied by the French in 1810, prompting the emergence of a bandit resistance movement known as bandolerismo.
Ronda, A Monumental City
The obvious starting point is the Puente Nuevo, one of the city’s icons.Built in the 18th century, it connects the historic town to the city’s modern districts, spanning a 100-metre-deep ravine through which the river Guagalevín flows. It is well worth crossing the bridge to see the stunning views. Another vantage point is provided by the balconies in the Jardines de Cuenca, revealing a view of the bridge in all its splendour. But, there’s more. Pre-dating the Puente Nuevo is the Puente Romano (Roman Bridge), also known as the Puente de las Curtidurías, in addition to the Puente Viejo, finished in 1616.
Another sightseeing area is the inner city with its narrow streets, particularly the Calle Manuel Montero with its characteristic white houses adorned with flowering geraniums. The area also boasts a large number of mansions and palaces, notably the Mondragón Palace. Moorish in origin, the building features harmoniously blended Mudéjar and Renaissance styles. It currently houses the Ronda Museum. Other outstanding buildings are the Palace of the Marqués de Salvatierra, the Casa del Gigante (House of the Giant), a jewel of Nasrid architecture, the Renaissance-style House of St John Bosco and the Palacio del Rey Moro (Palace of the Moorish King). The latter houses a fountainhead opened up by the Moors which provides access down to the river.
When it comes to religious architecture, a must-see monument is the Church of Santa María la Mayor, built over the High Mosque of Medina. A prominent feature of its interior is the choir, carved in fine walnut and oak woods.
There are numerous vestiges of the old Moorish settlement, as we saw for ourselves. You can still visit the Muslim Medina, of which part of the wall has been preserved, although the most striking feature is the Almocábar Gate, dating from the 13th century. However, the most important vestige of that period is the Arab Baths –the best preserved on the Iberian Peninsula –built in the 13th and 14th century alongside the Arroyo de las Culebras.
Also worth exploring is Ronda’s Roman past, the major landmark being the Acipino Archaeological Site. Located some 20 kilometres outside the city, the standout feature in this complex is the Roman theatre.
Ronda – A City of Bulls
As intimated at the beginning of this post, the Bullring is another icon for which Ronda is famous. The Real Maestranza de Caballería de Ronda, unveiled in 1785, is one of the oldest and most monumental bullrings in Spain. Interestingly enough, its design is attributed to Martín de Aldehuela, artificer of the Puente Nuevo. For those who wish to explore the world of bullfighting, the bullring includes the Museo de la Tauromaquia (Museum of Tauromachy) which is open to the public.
However, Ronda is not only well-known in bullfighting circles for its bullring. It was here that modern tauromachy emerged, as did the Corridas Goyescas, and the city is the cradle of powerful matador dynasties like the Romeros and the Ordóñez. This is precisely why Ronda was frequented by its two best-known international aficionados, Ernest Hemingway and Orson Welles, and the ashes of Orson Welles were deposited in the Ordóñez family estate in Ronda.
Ronda – the Home of Good Food and Drink!
The best way to round off a tour of Ronda is to try its culinary specialities, notably their sopa de castañas (chestnut soup),migas con chorizo (cured pork sausage crumble), rabo de toro (bull’s tail stew), conejo a la rondeña (Ronda-style rabbit) and perdiz al tajo (Tajo-style partridge).The ideal accompaniment to these dishes is any of wines produced in the nearby Serranía de Ronda, designated either DO Málaga or DO Sierras de Málaga.
Ready to explore all the cities concealed in Ronda? Secure your Vueling here.
Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
Photos by SuperCar-RoadTrip.fr, Elliott Brown, Julia Kostecka, Antonio
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