Three-Day Getaway to Rome
Rome has so much to see and do that the best thing is to tour it at your leisure and sightsee with a view to coming back for a second stint. Above all, take some sturdy footwear with you as it’s best to see the city on foot, strolling along its streets. At each corner you will come across a picture capable of transporting you to some bygone era, or a church beckoning you to enter and discover the treasure hidden inside. Here are some pointers to tackling a three-day getaway in this beautiful city.
First Day – a Walk Through Ancient Rome
The best way to make initial contact with the city is by visiting its ancient sites. We recommend you start by heading forIl Vittoriano,a monument to Victor Emmanuel II, affording some splendid views of the complex making up the ancient Roman city: theCircus Maximus,the Roman Forum, the Colosseum, the Arch of Constantine, the Forum of Augustus and the ever-impressive Trajan’s Column. If you’re up for something a little special, take a stroll through the Roman forum at dusk and you will experience a magical moment. And, if you’re seeking something more secluded, head for the Church of San Bonaventura al Palatino, a backwater of peace.
After so much excitement, the best thing is to make for the district of Trastevere and delight in its culinary offerings and nightlife. To whet your appetite, have a glass of wine at the Ombre Rosse Caffe (Piazza S.Egidio 12,13) before going for a genuine Italian dinner without any frills at Trattoria da Lucia (Vicolo del Mattonato 2).
Second Day – the Vatican, Piazze, Palazzi, and Umpteen Churches
Whether you are religious or not, you can’t leave Rome without having seen St Peter’s Basilica. As much as you may have seen it in pictures or on the television, until you actually set foot in St Peter’s Square, you cannot imagine the sheer scale of this monument. Once inside, everything seems overwhelming, from the dome, designed by Michelangelo, to the incredible marble decoration, Bernini’s baldachin crowning the high altar and the sculptural groups such as Michelangelo’s Pietà and Bernini’s tomb of Urban VIII. “The early bird catches the worm”, so we recommend getting there early to avoid long queues.
Hard by St Peter’s are the Vatican Museums which, among many other art history gems, feature the Sistine Chapel. You are urged to book ahead to avoid long waits. If you’re into art, make sure you extend your visit to include the Stanze di Raffaello, four rooms adorned with frescoes by Raphael which are well worth seeing.
After this double session, both mind and body are going to need a good rest. Time to head for Castel Sant'Angelo, cross the river Tiber and regain your strength in one of the eateries along the trendy Via dei Coronari. We recommend you try the Italian cheese and sausage boards at Fresco Coronari.
Once you’re restored, it’s time to descend on the Piazza Navona where you will come across the original Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi, designed by Bernini, and the Chiesa di Sant’Agnese in Agone, by Borromini. Not far from there stands the Pantheon of Agrippa, another must-see piece of Roman architecture. Built from AD 118 to 125, you can’t fail to be moved by its stunning dome. Slip inside and seek out the tomb of Raphael, housed in one of the side chapels. Culminating this itinerary is another of the city’s classics – the Fontana di Trevi.
A good way of rounding off this intense day’s sightseeing is to stroll along the Campo dei Fiori and roam the streets surrounding the Piazza Farnese. Stop off for a break at the Caffè Perù and then cap your itinerary by dining at the Cul de Sac (Piazza di Pasquino, 73).
Third Day – Picnic with the Borghese
The Villa Borghese Gardens make the perfect setting for ending off a getaway to Rome. On your way there, make sure you go along the Via del Babuino and stop off at both the Piazza di Spagna and Piazza dei Popolo. From there, walk up the hill to the Villa Borghese gardens which afford panoramic views of Rome from the highest point in the city. Culminating a tour of this magnificent park, full of statues and leisure areas, is the Galleria Borghese. This museum houses the final jewels of your journey – the frescoes adorning its interior, sculptures by Bernini and a collection of paintings.
Ready to be spellbound by the beauty of the Eternal City? Book your Vueling tickets here.
Text and images by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
more infoFloating Gastronomy – in Venice
Venice envelops you in its melancholy, mist and light. It is also soothing. If you let yourself drift along that winding canal that dominates the city, your visit will flow, too. Notice how there are no cars and that, despite the flood of tourists that enter the city each day, this is a silent destination. Whether you find yourself on a bridge, at an intersection, in the heart of the Campo or in a narrow alleyway, wherever you feel famished, your deliverance is at hand. Not only because you can get anywhere fast on a gondola, but because the capital of Veneto is full of places to enjoy the cuisine. Either at street level or up high, with those views that swayed and swathed writers and intellectuals of all eras. Following are some of those spots with a sparkle of their own and a unique offering.
Fish
Given Venice’s seafaring nature, what could be better than to order and savour the city’s fresh fish? A prime spot for eating fish virtually from the market to your plate is the Antiche Carampane for its proximity to the Rialto Market. This simple, family restaurant is frequented by Venetians who know where to find the best of the best, as well as by well-informed celebrities. Here you will witness respect for food and for Venice’s most characteristic culinary tradition, both on and off the menu.
Street Food
In Venice you will wander about willy-nilly to come to grips with its soul. If time is short for having a relaxed meal, an advisable option is the street food. A tramezzino (wedge-shaped sandwich) at some café, or a pizza al taglio (sliced pizza) at Antico Forno, are both generous snacks. But, if you’re after something more authentic without having to sit down to it, better settle for Acqua & Mais, a dainty eatery which makes the most out of the Venetian culinary repertoire when it comes to a practical packaged takeaway. Your eyes will pop out at the fried fish, croquettes, polenta and the classic creamed codfish.
The Confectionery
Here there are two historic and thus essential locations. Two pastry shops, quite a long way from each other, have coexisted as successful local landmarks. However, each one has evolved differently over the years. At Rosa Salva they still serve classic single-helping pastries, buns and ice-creams in an atmosphere more akin to a bar. Colussi, for its part, is celebrated for its focaccia veneziana, which resembles panettone or sweet bread in shape and tastes like a really good ensaimada. It is ideal when eaten with hot chocolate from the same establishment, where they make dough and bake on the premises every day.
Wine and Glasses
Estro - Vino e Cucina is a modern gastrobar and wine bar with a lot of character where you can eat typical Italian dishes and raw fish – a hallmark of the Italo-Japanese chef, Mashiro Homma – marinated in the wine of your choice from among a wide selection within view of the tables. The wine has a “double label” and can also be purchased.
The historical Osteria ai Pugni focuses on aperitifs, sausage boards with regional fare, a variety of different flavoured croquettes and the typical tramezzini with unusual fillings. A striking feature is their wine, served by the glass, which can be savoured in a relaxed atmosphere alongside the Ponte dei Pugni, in the heart of the Dorsoduro district.
Paradiso Perduto
You can either sit at the bar or at one of the many tables in this huge, bustling restaurant which provides live music on Monday nights to fire the after-dinner ambience. Their forte is large helpings of homemade dishes. Their fresh fish comes highly recommended – complete with matching side dishes or contorni (vegetables, field mushrooms or roast potatoes)–as do the lasagna, fagioli (beans) and tiramisu, a dessert that originated in Venice. Keith Richards once played the piano here…
The Vegetarian Streak
The fact that you have to book in advance for La Zucca is the best compliment you can pay it. The artificers of the restaurant have managed to remain faithful to the origins of the business, where pumpkin is the major attraction and the basis of many of the homemade dishes on the reasonably priced menu.
Accommodation
If you can afford it, the Hotel Danieli is one of those places that leave their mark on you. Commensurate with the beauty of Venice, this luxury hotel is part of the city’s living history. It is just two-minutes’ walk from St. Mark’s Square and its two highly distinct buildings – the rooms in each hardly resemble one another – recreate the splendour of times past with an evocative atmosphere that fits in well with their 21st-century service. Their majestic Carnival ball, held near the lounge, is celebrated, while you can have a unique, enogastronomic experience in their new Wine Suite. You can also have one in the Danieli restaurant and terrace, a spot which entices you with its views over the Grand Canal and the Adriatic, as does the creative fare provided by their executive chef, Dario Parascandolo, featuring perennial classics and in-house recipes based on local products.
Souvenir
If you appreciate little gifts and good craftsmanship, treat yourself to a book marker, a notebook, a print, a postcard or one of the hand-painted recipe books by the artist, Nicola Tenderini. You cannot leave Venice without a keepsake that takes you back to the city, as far away as you might be.
I bet you can’t wait to delight in fine Venetian cuisine. Check out our flights here.
Text and photos by Carme Gasull and Belén Parra from Gastronomistas
more infoFine Design In Palma
Majorca is one of the pearls of the Mediterranean. Over the years, the island has drawn from its traditional resources to reinvent itself in line with current trends. No wonder, then, that it is one of Spain’s design meccas. This is where the Camper footwear brand was born, and the painter, Miquel Barceló, too. It was also the destination of such artists as Joan Miró and the pianist, Frédéric Chopin. This thirst for creation and good taste has led its capital, Palma, to build up a bountiful network of shops, restaurants, bars and hotels which can wreak havoc on the unsuspecting design lover. From the old town to the grass-roots quarter of Santa Catalina, from the classical to the most genuine vintage, one things emerges clearly – Palma is design.
1. In Progress
In the heart of Santa Catalina lies the store run by Sonia and Jesús, two enfants terribles of vintage who specialise in artefacts from the fifties to the eighties. Here you will find anything from chairs and lamps to Pontesa crockery, Arcoroc glasses and old Palma shop counters. With special emphasis on “Made in Spain”, on many a Saturday they organise aperitif concerts and exhibitions by local artists.
2. Rialto Living
As soon as you set foot in Rialto Living you will feel as though you’re in the chic venues of Capri or the Hamptons. This “living store” is housed in an old palace in the city’s historic centre and its offerings range from furniture and art to books, fashion and a restaurant. Old and modern mingle in the ambience, with that Mediterranean flourish we are so fond of.
3. Frida Watson
Seen from the shop window, items in the Frida Watson collection confirm love at first sight. This store in Santa Catalina features pure Scandinavian design from the fifties to the seventies in harmony with Vitra clocks, Murano glass and retro lamps that resemble flying saucers.
4. Hotel Cort
The work of interior designer, Lázaro Rosa-Violán, Hotel Cort is one of the most elegant in town. Perfect lighting, hydraulic flooring and island colours compound a blend of elements that can make your head swim. Further, the sophisticated hotel restaurant is the ideal spot for a quiet dinner with your partner.
5. La Pecera
Few places can reconcile mid-20th-century European furniture with vintage and contemporary Majorcan items so deftly. La Pecera is a small but alluring store where you can find lamps, designer furniture, decorative items and craftwork. C/ Victoria, 4
6. Ariela Schönberg Vintage Collective
German furniture is one of Ariela Schönberg’s fortes. This, one of the latest shops to open in Santa Catalina, features designer artefacts and anonymous furniture from the whole continent.
7. Posada Terra Santa
Despite its rather solemn name, the Posada Terra Santa (Holy Land Inn) is one of the loveliest hotels in Palma. Housed in a 16th-century palace, its 26 rooms display a blend of history and modernity with comfort. Additionally, their swimming pool, with views of the Cathedral, is the perfect spot for chilling out and letting yourself get drawn in by the city’s charm.
8. Sa Costa
Sa Costa is a classic in Palma. Their antiques show wonderfully next to vintage formica, plastic and iron. As soon as you enter the shop, you realise you could spend hours admiring the dozens of furniture pieces and other items that people this store in the city centre. Costa de Sa Pols, 7A
9. Patrón Lunares
The classic essence of the Mediterranean arrives in Palma, skippered by the Patrón Lunares tavern and their chef, Javier Bonet. A pretty venue decorated with hydraulic floor tiles, iron columns and retro furniture where you can eat good seafood and enjoy the island’s flavours.
10. Galería Veintinueve
Now in their recently opened new premises, Galería Veintinueve continues to be a hit, with their dual facet of contemporary art exhibition centre and venue for large 20th-century pieces by such designers as Jacobsen, Scarpa and Colombo. The store and patio are spectacular and the collection of art and furniture will leave you impressed.
11. Viveca
Antiquities, ceramics, textiles and lots of vintage – this is the essence of Viveca Palma, where Íñigo Güell and Ingrid Iturralde have unveiled a store featuring 18th-century Swedish furniture and iconic 20th-century furniture. A real pleasure.
12. Louis 21
Upcoming artists jostle to exhibit their creations in Louis 21, one of the leading springboards for promoting the careers of emerging artists. With another gallery in Madrid, their philosophy is to elicit interaction with the public and the collaborative urge.
Come in search of fine design in the Balearic capital – check out your Vueling here.
Text by Aleix Palau for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by Aleix Palau
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On the Trail of Van Gogh
Located in the south of France, an hour’s drive from Marseilles and alongside the Rhone, Arles is a town you really must see if you’re heading to Provence. And, if you’re also a fan of Van Gogh, you have even more reasons to rediscover the landscapes and architectures that inspired the grand master in his Post-Impressionist painting.
Arles’ Roman Past
You cannot possibly visit this town without becoming steeped in its Roman heritage. In AD 46, as a reward for having supported Julius Caesar is his struggle against Pompey, Arles was turned into the major harbour in the area, a privilege which was withdrawn from Massilia (the former Marseilles), for having mistakenly supported the opposite side. As a result, the town then lived out its age of splendour, of which several monuments have survived the test of time, some still in excellent condition. One example is the Arles Arenas, an amphitheatre built around the 1st century AD for staging gladiator combats, the most spectacular show at the time. It is still used today, as it hosts theatre plays, concerts, bullfights and courses camarguaises (a typically local type of bullfighting). The 1st-century AD Roman Theatre is another standout monument in the city. Like all Roman cities, Arles also had its forum, the centre of the community’s social, political and religious life. In addition to the nomenclature, Place du Forum, it features an underground Cryptoporticus, a network of galleries where foundations were laid and which is open to visitors, accessed via the Hôtel de la Ville.
Other Sights in the Town
The Church of St. Trophime, located in the town hall square, is a classic example of Provençal Romanesque and Gothic. Built between the 12th and 15th century, its cloister is also well worth visiting. Another interesting sight is the Alyscamps, A Roman necropolis which was taken over by the Christians and used until the end of the Middle Ages. For those interested in discovering the town’s archaeological history, we can recommend a visit to the Musée Départemental Arles Antique, which features some striking mosaics, among other things.
Arles – the Setting for Van Gogh’s Paintings
Apart from drawing tourists to its monumental heritage, Arles attracts visitors for having being one of the major settings for Van Gogh’s works. The artist’s sojourn in the town was comparatively short – from February 1888 to May 1889 – but there he was hugely prolific, producing over 200 paintings. Captivated by its light and colour, he painted it in all its guises. Curiously enough, not one of these paintings is housed in Arles, but you can still visit all the places that inspired them. We recommend getting a street map – which can be picked up in the tourist office – and letting yourself get carried away. Some of the landmarks on the Van Gogh tour are:
- The Maison Jaune (Yellow House), on the Place Lamartine;
- The “Café la Nuit” (Night Café), on the Place du Forum;
- Arles Arenas and the Alyscamps;
- Trinquetaille Bridge;
- “Starry Night Over the Rhone”;
- “The Old Mill”, on rue Mireille;
- The garden on the Boulevard des Lices;
- The garden of the hospital, known as the Espace Van Gogh (where he was admitted during his illness and where he had his ear stitched back on after cutting it off);
- The Langlois Bridge, also known as the Van Gogh Bridge.
However, Arles did not only serve as Van Gogh’s haunts. Gauguin also visited the town and painted some of its spots. It was precisely on account of an argument between the two painters that Van Gogh ended up cutting off his ear. Another genius, Picasso, also frequented Arles over a number of years. He would often go there to watch bullfighting and to visit his friends. Proof of his close ties to the town is the donation he made of fifty-seven drawings, which can be seen in the Arles Fine Arts Museum, the Musée Réattu.
Ready to take a Vueling and be dazzled by Arles?
Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
Photos by Joan Sorolla, Tristan Taussac, Anne Jacko, Shadowgate, Phillip Capper, Claude Valette
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