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Splendour Nobility & Beauty on the Loire

About an hour’s journey from Paris lies the Loire Valley, an area of vital importance in France’s history and one of the country’s fortes when it comes to tourism. The valley played a vital strategic role in the past – while it was there that, in the Middle Ages, defence works were first erected to contain the Vikings, centuries later it was the setting for the bloody battle between the English and French during the Hundred Years’ War. The reign of Charles VII marked a turning point for this beautiful valley as it was then that it reached its moment of maximum splendour and became the favourite haunts of the French nobility. They embarked on a spectacular spree of castle building on rural lands, the castles becoming veritable recreational grounds for giving free rein to their hedonistic urges. Subsequently, the French Revolution wrought havoc among most of them, leading to the loss of a considerable portion of the area’s heritage. The castles were later restored with a view to recovering their bygone splendour and they have now become one of France’s leading tourist attractions.

According to the association, “Châteaux de la Loire, Vallée des Rois” (Castles of the Loire, Valley of the Kings), which is tasked with managing the Loire Valley’s heritage, the region boasts some 70 listed sites which, in addition to castles, also include abbeys, churches and museums. Clearly, it would be madness to attempt seeing it all in one go. Visitors usually make a selection of sites to see before their tour. Here, then, are some of the standout castles:

Château de Chambord This former hunting lodge of King Francis I is one of the kingpins of the French Renaissance in which the medieval tradition blends seamlessly with classical Italian structures. It is one of the largest and most popular castles on the route. The forest of chimneys towering over the rooftop and the double spiral staircase in the interior are absolutely stunning.

Château de Cheverny Belonging to the Hurault family, is also dates from the Renaissance and is noteworthy for its interior decoration. Curiously enough, the building was the source of inspiration for Hergé, the creator of Tintin, when he drewChâteau de Moulinsart(Marlinspike Hall).

Château de Chenonceau Also known as “The Ladies’ Chateau”, it is a veritable icon on the Loire châteaux route and one of the most widely visited. Built in the 16th century, one of its most striking features is its location, spanning the river Cher.

Château de BloisThe official residence of the French Kings during the Renaissance. Of the many tales that arose around it is one that claims Joan of Arc was blessed in its chapel before leading her army out to relieve the besieged city of Orleans. It now operates as a museum.

Château d'AmboiseOriginally a medieval fortress, it was turned into a royal residence during the reigns of Charles VIII and Francis I. Its claim to fame is that Leonardo da Vinci was buried here after spending the last three years of his life in the castle.

Château de Langeais – Regarded as the oldest fortress in France, much of its medieval charm remains intact, including the drawbridge, which strikes a marked contrast with the Renaissance style of the west facade.

Château de Chaumont One of its numerous owners was Catherine de Medici who counted Nostradamus among the many guests she entertained there. The garden, designed by Henri Duchêne, is where an annual International Garden Festival is currently hosted from late April to mid-October.

Five days is considered to be the minimum amount of time you need to spend on a Loire Valley itinerary. You can plan a linear route, starting from a point nearest Paris and ending on the far side (or the other way around), or stay in one of the major cities along the route, like Orleans, Blois and Tours, and make sorties from there to various landmark sites you have chosen. The most comfortable way to get around is by car, although there are other alternatives, including availing yourself of the many bus tours to be had, and combining them to suit your agenda. The fittest among you can opt to tour these lands by bicycle, taking advantage of the comparatively flat terrain.

Be sure to take a flight to Paris and head for one of these valleys with their pedigree collection of castles.

Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Images by Frédérique Voisin-Demery, Thomas Steiner, Benh LIEU SONG, MFSG, Jean-Christophe BENOIST

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The Paris Environs A World Waiting to be Discovered

Paris has so much to offer and there is so much that meets the eye that you usually overlook the potential of its environs. And, understandably so. There is so much to be enthralled by in the “City of Light” that you can easily run out of time and energy to venture beyond the limits of that vast, beautiful city. But, if you do get the chance to spend more than a long weekend in Paris, or you’re lucky enough to travel there fairly often, make a point of taking public transport or hiring a car to head for some of the spots we recommend in the following.

Versailles – Europe’s Largest Palace

The Palace of Versailles is an old favourite that should be on any wish list of places in the vicinity of Paris. The radiance of Louis XIV’s crown jewel is due not only to the palace’s architecture and opulent interiors, but also to the magnificent gardens surrounding it, including such gems as the Trianon Palaces and the Estate of Marie Antoinette.

What during Louis XIII’s reign was no more than a modest hunting lodge was transformed, in the times of his successor, into the lavish construction that would become the official residence of the King of France.

Situated less an hour away from Paris, it can be reached in comfort on the Versailles Express bus, or by train on the RER C line.

Fontainebleau – More Than a Forest and Castle

Just over an hour’s drive south of Paris lies this veritable green lung, the Forêt de Fontainebleau, a forest covering no less than 20,000 hectares. It is criss-crossed by paths you can walk or cycle down, or negotiate on horseback, and it even features rock-climbing facilities in certain spots.

A source of inspiration for 19th-century artists, who came here freely in order to capture its light, the forest had already seduced France’s monarchs centuries earlier, when they made it one of their favourite recreation areas for retreats or hunting. This led to the construction of the Palace of Fontainebleau, originally built in the 12th century. Numerous refurbishments commissioned by a number of monarchs over the centuries yielded the grand architectural work we see today – one of the largest palaces in France. Even Napoleon was seduced by its charm and it was precisely on the fantastic Horseshoe Staircase – also known as the Staircase of Farewells – that he bade farewell to his Old Guard before departing into exile on the island of Elba.

Chantilly – Apart From its Delicious Cream

Famous worldwide for its delicious cream with a vanilla aroma and situated 50 kilometres north of Paris, the town of Chantilly breathes elegance and is well worth visiting. Among its main attractions is the Château de Chantilly, comprising two buildings – the Grand Château, destroyed during the French Revolution and rebuilt in 1870, and the Petit Château, built around 1560. Be sure to spend some time in the amazing gardens with their geometrical patterns surrounding the palace, the work of La Nôtre, who also designed the gardens at Versailles and the Château de Vaux-le-Vicomte. Make sure you also visit the Condé Museum, housed in the Grand Château, as it boasts a fine collection of books, manuscripts, drawings and paintings.

Château de Vaux-le-Vicomte – the Blue-Eyed Boy

Louis XIV was so jealous of the beauty of the Château de Vaux-le-Vicomte that he ordered its owner, Nicolas Fouquet, to be imprisoned. It also acted as the source of inspiration for the construction of Versailles. With such sterling credentials, your getaway to the Paris environs simply must include what is one of the most beautiful castles in France, although, oddly enough, it is not very well known by the public at large.

This sparkling jewel is located in the small town of Maincy, 60 kilometres from Paris. Participants in its construction included the architect Louis Le Vau, the painter Charles Le Brun and the gardener, André Le Notrê. One of its highlights is the spectacular Oval Salon, 19 metres long by 18 metres wide, which is unique in the history of French architecture.

Make haste to explore the gems awaiting you on the outskirts of Paris – book your Vueling here.

Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Images by Ninara , Jean-Pierre Dalbéra, Daniel Villafruela , Pierre-Alain Bandinelli, Olga Kontsevich

 

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Three-Day Getaway to Rome

Rome has so much to see and do that the best thing is to tour it at your leisure and sightsee with a view to coming back for a second stint. Above all, take some sturdy footwear with you as it’s best to see the city on foot, strolling along its streets. At each corner you will come across a picture capable of transporting you to some bygone era, or a church beckoning you to enter and discover the treasure hidden inside. Here are some pointers to tackling a three-day getaway in this beautiful city.

First Day – a Walk Through Ancient Rome

The best way to make initial contact with the city is by visiting its ancient sites. We recommend you start by heading forIl Vittoriano,a monument to Victor Emmanuel II, affording some splendid views of the complex making up the ancient Roman city: theCircus Maximus,the Roman Forum, the Colosseum, the Arch of Constantine, the Forum of Augustus and the ever-impressive Trajan’s Column. If you’re up for something a little special, take a stroll through the Roman forum at dusk and you will experience a magical moment. And, if you’re seeking something more secluded, head for the Church of San Bonaventura al Palatino, a backwater of peace.

After so much excitement, the best thing is to make for the district of Trastevere and delight in its culinary offerings and nightlife. To whet your appetite, have a glass of wine at the Ombre Rosse Caffe (Piazza S.Egidio 12,13) before going for a genuine Italian dinner without any frills at Trattoria da Lucia (Vicolo del Mattonato 2).

Second Day – the Vatican, Piazze, Palazzi, and Umpteen Churches

Whether you are religious or not, you can’t leave Rome without having seen St Peter’s Basilica. As much as you may have seen it in pictures or on the television, until you actually set foot in St Peter’s Square, you cannot imagine the sheer scale of this monument. Once inside, everything seems overwhelming, from the dome, designed by Michelangelo, to the incredible marble decoration, Bernini’s baldachin crowning the high altar and the sculptural groups such as Michelangelo’s Pietà and Bernini’s tomb of Urban VIII. “The early bird catches the worm”, so we recommend getting there early to avoid long queues.

Hard by St Peter’s are the Vatican Museums which, among many other art history gems, feature the Sistine Chapel. You are urged to book ahead to avoid long waits. If you’re into art, make sure you extend your visit to include the Stanze di Raffaello, four rooms adorned with frescoes by Raphael which are well worth seeing.

After this double session, both mind and body are going to need a good rest. Time to head for Castel Sant'Angelo, cross the river Tiber and regain your strength in one of the eateries along the trendy Via dei Coronari. We recommend you try the Italian cheese and sausage boards at Fresco Coronari.

Once you’re restored, it’s time to descend on the Piazza Navona where you will come across the original Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi, designed by Bernini, and the Chiesa di Sant’Agnese in Agone, by Borromini. Not far from there stands the Pantheon of Agrippa, another must-see piece of Roman architecture. Built from AD 118 to 125, you can’t fail to be moved by its stunning dome. Slip inside and seek out the tomb of Raphael, housed in one of the side chapels. Culminating this itinerary is another of the city’s classics – the Fontana di Trevi.

A good way of rounding off this intense day’s sightseeing is to stroll along the Campo dei Fiori and roam the streets surrounding the Piazza Farnese. Stop off for a break at the Caffè Perù and then cap your itinerary by dining at the Cul de Sac (Piazza di Pasquino, 73).

Third Day – Picnic with the Borghese

The Villa Borghese Gardens make the perfect setting for ending off a getaway to Rome. On your way there, make sure you go along the Via del Babuino and stop off at both the Piazza di Spagna and Piazza dei Popolo. From there, walk up the hill to the Villa Borghese gardens which afford panoramic views of Rome from the highest point in the city. Culminating a tour of this magnificent park, full of statues and leisure areas, is the Galleria Borghese. This museum houses the final jewels of your journey – the frescoes adorning its interior, sculptures by Bernini and a collection of paintings.

Ready to be spellbound by the beauty of the Eternal City? Book your Vueling tickets here.

 

Text and images by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación

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Tangier – A Journey of Inspiration

Some destinations attract visitors for their museums; others, for their beaches or mountains, for the energy they give off or, simply, because they are fashionable. In the case of Tangier, the journey is inevitably related to the inspiration and yearnings for the past which it harbours like some muse of the arts. Myriad artists and scholars have passed through that city, located on the northern tip of Morocco, and have become spellbound by its charms.

The Light and Colour of Tangier

The first artist to be captivated by Tangier was the French painter, Eugène Delacroix. In 1832 he journeyed there as part of a diplomatic mission and ended up being seduced by its light and colour, as masterfully portrayed in such paintings as Jewish Wedding in Morocco.

The Spanish painter, Mariano Fortuny, who was familiar with Delacroix’s production, also went to Tangier in search of that magic, which infused a host of sketches and notes for his Orientalist works.

Henri Matisse reached Tangier in 1912. There, not only did he encounter “the landscapes of Morocco just as Delacroix had depicted them in his paintings”, as he himself stated, but he also discovered a new palette of colours for his own works. He took up lodgings in room 35 of the extant Grand Hotel Villa de France, where he painted such works as Window at Tangier.

Paul Bowles, Tangier and the Beat Generation

Tangier became a veritable beacon for writers, particularly in the 1950s and part of the 1960s. And, no wonder, as from 1923 to 1956 the city was a demilitarised zone under joint administration by various countries. This measure was implemented on account of its strategic position in the Strait of Gibraltar and the ensuing international disputes over its control. Known as the Tangier International Zone, it became a place of passage for many people – diplomats, adventurers, artists, spies and others. Functioning as “everyone’s city” or, if you will, “no man’s city”, it enjoyed an unusual status as a place of freedom and tolerance which would be difficult to find elsewhere.

One of the best known regulars in the city was the writer and composer, Paul Bowles, who arrived in Tangier in 1947 and was completely swept off his feet by its charms. It was there that he wrote his first novel, The Sheltering Sky, so masterfully ported to the cinema by the director, Bernardo Bertolucci. Then ensued the arrival of other creative figures, including Truman Capote, Tennessee Williams and Francis Bacon. And, he was also instrumental in spawning the Beat Generation – William Burroughs, Allen Ginsberg and Jack Kerouac, who succumbed to the allure of a place where they could give free rein to their imagination and – there’s no denying it – their vices, too.

Tangier Today

What remains of all that past now? While a lot of water has flowed under the bridge since then, and the city is in the throes of a process of renewal, the spots which resonate of those artists are still standing.

A visit to the Grand Socco provides a suitable introduction to the city. Its pleasant ambience and colourfulness are guaranteed, as is your likelihood of (literally) getting lost in its streets. You will eventually end up willy-nilly in the Petit Socco, a square in the heart of the Medina, packed with cafés and restaurants. Another square, the Place de France, is also a must-see, as it is the site of the Grand Café de Paris, with a history of its own. This is where our protagonists spent countless hours chatting and observing the passers-by.

The Fondation Lorin, housed in a synagogue, boasts a fine collection of photographs, documents and posters that give you a good idea of what Tangier was like in the first half of the 20th century. Then there is the Tangier American Legation Museum, a visit not to be missed by enthusiasts of Paul Bowles as it features a section dedicated to the writer which displays photos, portraits and Moroccan musical scores which he recorded himself.

The Villa Muniria – now reconditioned as the Hotel El-Muniria (1, Rue Magellan) – was the favourite lodgings of the Beat Generation. Tennessee Williams and the Rolling Stones themselves were counted among the guests that stayed there. It was there, too, in room number 9, that William Burroughs wrote his seminal work, Naked Lunch.

Another landmark of literary Tangier is the Librairie des Colonnes (54, Boulevard Pasteur). It was a meeting place for writers and artists, while nowadays it continues to host cultural activities.

Like the writers and artists of yesteryear, allow yourself to succumb to the charms of this inspiring city and plan your trip with Vueling!

 

Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación

Images by Dieter WeineltAndrzej Wójtowicz

 

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