Discover San Sebastián Brooklyn
Donostia-San Sebastián is a city in constant change. Perhaps its effervescence can partly be accounted for by the prevailing impetuous climate changes and, above all, by the ceaseless wind there. Coinciding with the forthcoming change of season, we recommend you visit this charming coastal city to delight in the chromatic variations of its bay – La Concha – or the crashing waves at Chillida’s Peine del Viento.
San Sebastián is currently abuzz with creative activity, now more heated than usual. The fact is that this city in Guipúzcoa will be Europe’s culture capital for the whole year, a title it shares with the city of Wrocław in Poland. Throughout 2016 there will be concerts, stage plays, talks, book presentations and a long list of miscellaneous cultural activities.
The Year’s Major Cultural Event
This is Donostia 2016, an event that does not set out to dazzle with great names on the international scene, or exorbitant investments in infrastructure. Instead, it is pioneering a new model based on experimentation, learning and developing close-knit audiences, with a view to the legacy all this will leave behind in the city as of 2017. That accounts for the programme being grounded in local tradition, albeit with an international projection.
The fact is that Donostia is no newcomer to organising events. Let’s not forget that for years the city has been hosting such long-standing festivals as Zinemaldi, the Musical Fortnight and Jazzaldi.
Activities of all kinds will be held throughout the year in various areas of the city. Like those billed to be staged in Cristina Enea Park. This beautiful park is the city’s largest and is located hard by the Estación del Norte. August will see the independent music festival, Glad is the Day, a tribute to Gladys, a local heroine among social movements. The Dabadaba and Le Bukowski clubs, in collaboration with San Sebastián 2016 and Tabakalera, will be hosting this project with the aim of putting the Egia district onto the map of the city’s summer cultural festivals. The daytime event is admission-free and will feature eight performances at two venues – Anari, Los Tiki Phantoms, Chiquita y Chatarra and The Saurs at the main venue; and AWWZ, Telmo Trenor, Kino Internacional and Javi P3Z at the electronic venue.
Donostia Goes Hipster
Modernity and culture go hand in hand in the Egia quarter. We embark on a tour of the area through some of its most emblematic spots.
Tabakalera
Unveiled last September after 10 years of renovation. Tabakalera, a new, spectacular centre of international contemporary culture is housed in a former tobacco factory covering an area of 37,000 square metres. It consists of two exhibition halls, a cinema, an art media library, creation labs, a hotel for resident artists, micro-theatre shows, concerts, two cafés, a restaurant and a roof terrace with superb views of the city.
The Egia Quarter
The renewal of two venues, namely the Victoria Eugenia Theatre and the Koldo Mitxelena Kulturenea, belonging to the Diputación Foral de Gipuzkoa (Guipúzcoa’s provincial administration), has helped shift the city’s hub to the other side of the Urumea. No wonder that this area is known as the Donostiarra Brooklyn, as it has become the city’s centre of modernity and culture.
Dabadaba
Currently one of San Sebastián’s most active venues. Concerts, festivals, exhibitions, DJ sets, flea markets and screenings are hosted in Dabadaba, a multi-purpose centre. Apart from musical and cultural events, on weekday mornings it also offers breakfast, shakes and natural fruit juices. This venue is up with the latest trends, such as a revival of interest in beer – a varied and growing selection of commercial and craft beers are featured on its menu.
Le Bukowski
Le Bukowski is another major night-time meeting point in the Egia quarter. It might lack the sophistication of the Victoria Eugenia Theatre, or the modernity of Rafael Moneo’s Kursaal Auditorium. But, what does that matter if what you want is to listen to good rock or dance music? This is the yardstick club in Donostia, both for live and DJ music. It has been active for three decades and not for nothing is it as fresh as the day it first opened.
Gazteszena
A space in the Egia quarter which has been operating as a multi-purpose venue since 1998. This year it will be hosting the Mojo Workin festival on 18 and 19 March, an event dedicated to rhythm and blues and soul which will be featuring international artists and DJs.
Donostia is always on duty for the traveller. Come and visit its trendiest quarter in a particularly exciting year. Check out our flights here.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by Donostia 2016, Dabadaba
more infoBordeaux in Seven Steps
Bordeaux can boast of having emerged from a sweet slumber, deservedly earning it the name of “the Sleeping Beauty”, later becoming the “Pearl of Aquitaine”. Here are the keys to enjoying a city that has become an irresistible tourist destination.
1. Taste Its Wines
Why deny it? Wine is the region’s economic driving force and the main reason for Bordeaux being famous all over the world. A trip to this city is clearly the perfect excuse for venturing into its extensive wine realm. The local tourist office has a roster of 60 different circuits for touring the viticultural region’s wineries that have edged their way onto the international scene. Needless to say, you don’t actually have to leave Bordeaux to discover its wines. All you need to do is head for one of the bars or bistros to find them. Here are our recommendations:
- The Bar à Vin du CIVB is a city classic and has an extensive Bordeaux wine list.
- For those who prefer to accompany their wine with some good cheese, Bistrot du Fromager is their best option.
- Those on a tasting tour who also want to take away the odd bottle as a keepsake should drop in on La Conserverie-Converserie.
- And, you can even sign up for a course in wine tasting at L’École du Vin.
2. Be Dazzled by the Largest Water Mirror in the World
The Place de la Bourse (Bourse Square). also known as the Place Royale, is undoubtedly one of the major landmarks in Bordeaux. It was designed by Jacques Ange Gabriel, royal architect to Louis XV, and built from 1730 to 1755.This square heralded the moment when the city broke out of its medieval walls, marking the start of its age of splendour. Rectangular in shape, one side opens onto the river Garonne, while the centre is taken up by the Fountain of The Three Graces. The main attraction, however, is Le Miroir d’Eau (Water Mirror), one of the largest in the world, with a surface area of 3.450 m2. The interplay of reflections is fascinating and highly photogenic – if you’re travelling with children, it is sure to delight them.
3. Enjoy Its Heritage
After Paris, Bordeaux is the city with the largest number of protected monuments in France. One example of this is its harbour, known as the Port of the Moon, which was listed as UNESCO World Heritage in 2007. Set on a meander of the river Garonne, its nickname is derived from its crescent-moon or croissant shape. Most of the buildings in the harbour and environs reflect the ideals of the Enlightenment. Be sure to stroll through its streets and admire their unique beauty.
4. Take a Boat Ride Along the River Garonne
The river Garonne has long been a lynchpin of the city’s development. Indeed, in the 18th century, it was one of the most important ports in Europe. A novel way of viewing the city of Bordeaux is by taking in the different angles of it afforded by the river. All you need to do is turn up at the Port of the Moon and go on one of the available cruises. Of the myriad options to choose from, we recommend one that includes wine tasting and snacks while soaking up the views.
5. Be Inspired by Museum Offerings
Art lovers have a must-visit in the shape of the Museum of Fine Arts, noteworthy for its fine collection of Dutch paintings. If you’re an enthusiast of the latest in art trends, the place to be is the CAPC Musée d’Art Contemporain, located in a former warehouse for colonial goods. The Museum of Decorative Arts, housed in the Hôtel Lalande, is a showcase of bourgeois life in the 18th and 19th century, as seen through their decorative objects – furniture, sculpture, engravings, ceramics, cutlery and glassware.
6. Enjoy Nature in One of the Parks
Bordeaux has many parks where you can get a breather. The best known is the Jardin Public (Public Garden), set in the heart of the city. It was opened in 1755 and styled along the lines of Versailles, but subsequently re-styled as an English garden. It features an old carousel which children will love.
7. Eat Oysters in the Market
If you happen to spend a weekend in Bordeaux, make sure you head for the Marche des Capucines. This magnificent market offers top-notch produce and has a wonderful atmosphere. There, you will find stalls where you can taste oysters, seafood and fresh fish.
Book your Vueling here and see all the hidden charm of Bordeaux for yourself.
Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
Images by SuperCar-RoadTrip.fr, Yann Chauvel, Bistro du Fromager
more infoGran Canaria A Paradise of Contrast on Two Wheels
Gran Canaria has become the favourite destination among cyclists in the last few years owing to the good climate on the island and the challenging routes it offers. The island has hosted professionals of the calibre of Alberto Contador, entire pro cycling teams such as Tinkoff, world champion triathletes like Daniela Ryf and Stöckli’s Swiss mountain bike racer, Jolanda Neff. But, the fact that it’s teeming with pros does not mean they have exclusive rights to the land – amateurs can also delight in touring it on two wheels. Here is what is special about this island, and my recommendations.
Advantages of Gran Canaria as a Cycling Destination
- The mean annual temperature is 21°.
- Direct flights from most European airports.
- Good, tarred roads with little traffic, as well as cautious drivers accustomed to cyclists.
- The land elevation is almost 2,000 metres (1,949 m) in the Pico de las Nieves, considered to be one of Europe’s toughest mountain passes, together with Mortirolo, Angliru and Stelvio. However, here the advantage is that the temperature is much warmer than in Asturias or the Alps.
- Marked scenic contrasts, ranging from white sand dunes in Maspalomas to tropical parkland in the north of the island, to the oasis in the Fataga Gorge.
Practical Tips
Accommodation. If you’re seeking tranquility and vegetation, the best option is to stay in the north. A good spot is the Bandama Golf Resort, which forms part of the oldest golf course in Spain, located in the Bandama Caldera with its noticeable volcanic presence. Nearby you will come across the vineyards of the Bodegón Vandama, offering delicious dishes well worth trying. And, if you require other services, as well as sun and long afternoons, the Barceló Margaritas in Maspalomas is a good choice, with the broadest culinary variety to be had in the hotel itself. Remember that, if you want to pedal, you’re going to have to rest and eat properly.
Essential routes and sights. The number of places you visit will depend partly on the length of your stay. Detailed descriptions and route times can be sourced at the Strava cycling community. Following are the key points, and a rundown of what to expect in terms of your level, to help you plan your itinerary.
Pico de las Nieves. This is the highest point on the island, situated in its centre. On a clear day you can pick out Mt Teide on Tenerife and Roque Nublo from there. Different access routes are available. The toughest route – which I would not recommend, unless you’re a seasoned climber – is the Ingenio por Cazadores, which reaches gradients of 23%. Next comes the ascent from Ayacata, which you get to from Maspalomas, while the easiest route is on the north side, via Cueva Grande. You need to take the climb leisurely. Once at the top, apart from some fine views, there is a food station where you can refuel.
Tejeda. A mountain village with excellent gastronomic offerings. If you’re planning a route on a non-competitive day, this is an ideal spot for stopping to enjoy some traditional island cuisine.
Three Big Dams (Soria, Las Niñas, Chira). It is surprising to come across so much water on the south of the island. All the dams are connected by district roads with virtually no traffic. If you’re after peace and quiet, this is a great route.
Maspalomas Dunes. For those who have never seen sand dunes, this is a must-visit destination, featuring dunes worthy of the Sahara. My advice is to go there at dusk, when the light is at its best.
Fataga Gorge. It starts just past the Degollada de las Yeguas, and the scenery ranges from a desert landscape to a “valley of a thousand palm trees”. Those who have been to Morocco will feel like they’re still in the Draa Valley.
Artenara. Located in the Tamadaba Nature Reserve, the vegetation here is different from the rest of the island, the prevailing species being the indigenous Canary Island pine.
Puerto de Mogán and Güi-Güi Beach. Puerto de Mogán is near the great dams route, while Güi-Güi beach can be reached on foot and is well worth visiting.
If the weather is still bleak and cold where you live, don’t think twice – get away to Gran Canaria and discover the island on two wheels. Book your ticket at Vueling.
Text by Raúl Casañas
more infoDown A Fine Danish Beer
Copenhagen is the capital of Denmark and its largest city, with a population of almost two million inhabitants, including its metropolitan area. Not bad for a northern city with long, harsh winters. However, the high population density is actually the result of brilliant economic planning. Copenhagen has managed to become the main trade hub between continental Europe and the whole of Scandinavia. Its healthy economy has led to such sectors as the leisure market expanding inordinately in the last few years. This has in turn prompted an upsurge in the number of restaurants, discos, bars and countless beer houses. We are going to recommend the ones we consider most inviting, but we will also be focusing on Carlsberg, the mother of all beers in Denmark. The label is a veritable institution for the Danes. And, we urge you to visit the Carlsberg brewery, one of the oldest in the world.
Possibly the Best Beer in the World
Before venturing into the vaporous world of Danish beer houses, let’s take a stroll through the crown jewel of that hops culture. I am referring to the Carlsberg Brewery, located in Copenhagen’s Vesterbro district, just 2 km from the Central Station. Buses no. 8A and 26 have stops very near the entrance gate. There is also a free shuttle bus which leaves every hour (from 11 a.m. to 5 p.m.) from Vesterbrogade, 6.
The Carlsberg Brewery is sited in one of Copenhagen’s most vibrant districts. On arrival, the first thing that drew our attention was the iconic Elephant Gate – Elephant is one of the label’s most popular varieties – in addition to numerous architectural monuments, including contemporary ones like the Bohr Tower. This year sees the completion of a whole new quarter adjoining the brewery and a new train station named Carlsberg has been unveiled, further facilitating travel to and from the city centre.
Housed in the factory complex is the Carlsberg Museum. It is made up of several historic buildings containing rooms replete with art objects. Some of them were originally the private showroom of Carl Jacobsen, founder of the famous brewery. However, nowadays most of the collection is housed in Glyptoteket, in downtown Copenhagen. If you dine in the restaurant, you will be escorted by 19th-century paintings by Krøyer and empresses in marble. We were awed by the mosaics on the ceiling and the marble columns.
In the summer months, admission is free on Fridays. The brewery is turned into a bar with a patio where you can enjoy a cold beer or eat a barbecued meal with a funk, jazz or groove DJ session in the background.
The Best Beer Houses in Copenhagen
Denmark’s most famous beers are Carlsberg and Tuborg, but these two pilseners are not your only options when touring the city, as its beer houses offer a seemingly endless variety. Here, then, is a list of our three favourites.
1) Mikkeller & Friends
One of the most popular beer houses in Vesterbro. They have also just opened another venue three times as large in Nørrebro, and offer up to 40 different types of barrel beer. The interior is divided into compartments which are opened as and when the premises fill up. At Mikkeller & Friends you can also buy beer to take away – they have a list of 350 types of bottled beer from all over the world.
2) WarPigs
Here you will find a large variety of beers – they have 22 fonts on the bar counter. WarPigs is actually an enormous Texan-style barbecue restaurant with two breweries on the premises. One belongs to the Danish brewer, Mikkeller, and the other to the American brewer, 3 Floyds. The two of them came together here with the aim of creating the best beer in the world. We don’t know if they achieved this, but, what we do know is that they crafted the only Danish-American beer on the planet.
3) Dia’legd
We regard this as our great discovery, hands down! Dia’legd lies in the heart of Vesterbro and is home to beer from the island of Fionia. Dia’legd focuses heavily on the Danish brewer, Refsvindinge. We heard the story from Michael Jensen, Kim Hoffmann-Madsen and Claus Jordan, the three friends who decided to specialise in this spectacular beer. “We offer the whole range of Refsvindinge beer, of which there are over 20 types, from pale ale to bock lager, pilseners, wheat beer… right down to porter,” remarked Claus Jordan, enthusiastically. If you visit Dia’legd, be sure to try the Ale no. 16, which was acclaimed the best Danish beer of 1997.
Why wait to cool down on some of the most refreshing beers in the world? Come and discover them for yourself – check out our flights here.
Text by Los viajes de ISABELYLUIS
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