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Five Point Guide to Enjoyment at Seville’s April Fair

The countdown has started to the days when Seville gets decked out in all its colour and finery, dressed up once more in polka-dot and flounced skirts, parading about on horseback and in carriages, a time when Sevillians again dream full blast and the monumental gate at the fairground lights up to announce the start of theFeria de Abril.Each year hordes of visitors – what with locals, regulars, celebrities, tourists and passers-by – descend on Seviile’s fairground to experience what is possibly one of the leading Andalusian festivities, El Rocío notwithstanding, of course. Now, what should newcomers to the Fair do, and what should they know, in order to avoid sticking out like a sore thumb? Here are some pointers to attending the April Fair without dying in the attempt.

1. Origins of the Feria de Abril

What was to become one of the most popular fiestas in Andalusia made its debut some time around 1846. It was created by Narciso Bonaplata and José María de Ybarra, two businessmen resident in Seville. It started out as a purely commercial, agricultural fair but then grew over the years – the first casetas (stalls) began to appear, as did the first decorative elements and it was eventually transferred to its current fairground and transformed into an entertainment event.

2. Where and When

The April Fair is held in grounds located in the district of Los Remedios. The best way to get there is by metro (get off at the Parque de los Príncipes or Plaza de Cuba stops), or the special bus service laid on by the Seville City Council for fair attendees. And no – do not go there by car, because trying to park can turn out to be a nightmare.

As for dates, the Seville Fair is usually held one or two weeks after Holy Week and lasts for six days, although this year, by popular vote, it will be extended by another day.

3. Once in the Fairground…

The fairground is divided into two areas – the Real de la Feria, where the casetas are located, and another known as the Calle del Infierno (Street of Hell), home to the various attractions, which the Sevillians have rechristened as cacharritos (“rattletraps” or “clunkers”). As the saying goes, “a friend in need is a friend indeed” and here, at the Seville Fair, you will need a well-connected friend to facilitate access to the casetas, the only place where you can experience the festivity in all its splendour. Not all the casetas are private, but there are far fewer public ones and they tend to be crowded.

4. Dress Code is Important

Part of the charm of this fiesta resides in the splendid colourfulness of the costumes worn by women, and the elegance of the suits worn by men. Sevillians take the garments they show off at the Feria de Abril very seriously and there are even flamenco fashion labels and catwalks that set the latest trends for the season. So, if you want to avoid being conspicuous, you could hire a costume (you’ll have to fork out about 150 euros a day for a Sevillian dress) or settle for adding some flamenco highlights to your apparel, namely such accessories as the typical flower, earrings, necklace and shawl. As for men, chino or peg trousers and a shirt, with a suit or sports jacket. Bear in mind that the ”Lunes del Alumbrado“ (Monday of Lights), also known as the Noche del Pescaíto (Night of the Little Fish), is the only time when flamenco attire is not worn.

5. “Rebujito” and “Pescaíto” – the Culinary Leading Lights

Rebujito is the April Fair drink par excellence. This combination of a dry sherry – manzanilla or fino – with Sprite, 7 Up or mint has its origins in an English cocktail from the Victorian era known as Sherry Cobbler, and is served up in all the casetas. Beware, though, as the hangover it produces is one of the most feared, so try not to get swept away by all the excitement and drink in moderation. The other leading light of Seville’s Fair is the fried fish or pescaíto frito typically consumed on the “Night of the Alumbrado”, with other notable favourites being chickpeas and codfish, bull’s tail and the churros and buñuelos (fritters) that mark the end of the fiesta.

Fire up and come to Seville’s April Fair, to be held from 30 April to 7 May – book your Vueling here.

Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Photos by Sandra Vallaure

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On the Trail of Van Gogh

Located in the south of France, an hour’s drive from Marseilles and alongside the Rhone, Arles is a town you really must see if you’re heading to Provence. And, if you’re also a fan of Van Gogh, you have even more reasons to rediscover the landscapes and architectures that inspired the grand master in his Post-Impressionist painting.

Arles’ Roman Past

You cannot possibly visit this town without becoming steeped in its Roman heritage. In AD 46, as a reward for having supported Julius Caesar is his struggle against Pompey, Arles was turned into the major harbour in the area, a privilege which was withdrawn from Massilia (the former Marseilles), for having mistakenly supported the opposite side. As a result, the town then lived out its age of splendour, of which several monuments have survived the test of time, some still in excellent condition. One example is the Arles Arenas, an amphitheatre built around the 1st century AD for staging gladiator combats, the most spectacular show at the time. It is still used today, as it hosts theatre plays, concerts, bullfights and courses camarguaises (a typically local type of bullfighting). The 1st-century AD Roman Theatre is another standout monument in the city. Like all Roman cities, Arles also had its forum, the centre of the community’s social, political and religious life. In addition to the nomenclature, Place du Forum, it features an underground Cryptoporticus, a network of galleries where foundations were laid and which is open to visitors, accessed via the Hôtel de la Ville.

Other Sights in the Town

The Church of St. Trophime, located in the town hall square, is a classic example of Provençal Romanesque and Gothic. Built between the 12th and 15th century, its cloister is also well worth visiting. Another interesting sight is the Alyscamps, A Roman necropolis which was taken over by the Christians and used until the end of the Middle Ages. For those interested in discovering the town’s archaeological history, we can recommend a visit to the Musée Départemental Arles Antique, which features some striking mosaics, among other things.

Arles – the Setting for Van Gogh’s Paintings

Apart from drawing tourists to its monumental heritage, Arles attracts visitors for having being one of the major settings for Van Gogh’s works. The artist’s sojourn in the town was comparatively short – from February 1888 to May 1889 – but there he was hugely prolific, producing over 200 paintings. Captivated by its light and colour, he painted it in all its guises. Curiously enough, not one of these paintings is housed in Arles, but you can still visit all the places that inspired them. We recommend getting a street map – which can be picked up in the tourist office – and letting yourself get carried away. Some of the landmarks on the Van Gogh tour are:

- The Maison Jaune (Yellow House), on the Place Lamartine;

- The “Café la Nuit” (Night Café), on the Place du Forum;

- Arles Arenas and the Alyscamps;

- Trinquetaille Bridge;

- “Starry Night Over the Rhone”;

- “The Old Mill”, on rue Mireille;

- The garden on the Boulevard des Lices;

- The garden of the hospital, known as the Espace Van Gogh (where he was admitted during his illness and where he had his ear stitched back on after cutting it off);

- The Langlois Bridge, also known as the Van Gogh Bridge.

However, Arles did not only serve as Van Gogh’s haunts. Gauguin also visited the town and painted some of its spots. It was precisely on account of an argument between the two painters that Van Gogh ended up cutting off his ear. Another genius, Picasso, also frequented Arles over a number of years. He would often go there to watch bullfighting and to visit his friends. Proof of his close ties to the town is the donation he made of fifty-seven drawings, which can be seen in the Arles Fine Arts Museum, the Musée Réattu.

Ready to take a Vueling and be dazzled by Arles?

 

Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación

Photos by Joan Sorolla, Tristan Taussac, Anne Jacko, Shadowgate, Phillip Capper, Claude Valette

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Alentejo, a stone's throw from Lisbon

Only an hour’s drive from Lisbon, we discovered an area little known in Portugal, but one that is certainly worth visiting. It’s a place to get lost in whilst taking in the incredible landscape. Alentejo has become a refuge for celebrities such as Valentino, Christian Louboutin and Sarah Ferguson. Even Spain’s Queen Letizia has been spotted around these parts.

In Portuguese, Alentejo means ‘Beyond Tajo’. It was the furthest point reached beyond the Tajo River during the reconquista. It’s a beautiful region blessed with endless planes, heavenly beaches and lots of sunshine. It is the perfect place to escape from the hustle and bustle and enjoy its local food and unique character.

With well-maintained historic streets and dozens of incredible shops where you can purchases artisan products, Évora is the most visited city in Alentejo. If travelling to Alentejo from Spain via Badajoz, the first city you encounter is Elvas, which is also well worth visiting. Builton high ground, its old military fortifications remain, reminding us of Spanish-Portuguese skirmishes over the centuries. Between Elvas and Évora lies Évora Monte, a tiny yet utterly charming village. Other destinations for the visitor include Portalegre, Monsaraz and Marvão, as well as the fascinating Estremoz and Vila Viçosa. It’s here that we make a stop to seek out the highly recommended Joao Portugal Ramos winery.Famous all over Europe, this bodega houses a number of wines of exquisite quality, and here you can see how they are made.South ofÉvora, in lower Alentejo, take a detour to Beja, Serpa, Moura, and above all the incredible town of Mertola.

One of the major reasons to visit this gorgeous part of the world is the beaches. In reality, they are an extension of Algarve, but a lot less crowded.Alentejo has remote beaches, where you can sunbathe, surf or simply get lost. Vila Nova de Milfontes isknown as ‘The Princess of Alentejo’ for its crystalline waters and sand dunes. It is a place you won’t want to leave. Instead, lose yourself in this slice of paradise.

WHERE TO SLEEP

If you do come to Alentejo, take the opportunity to sleep in one of the famous Pousadas Portugusesas and especially the Pousada Flor da Rousa in Nisa. This beautiful town is famous for its ceramic work, cheeses and local stew. But it also has a curious connection with France (in fact it is named after the French city of Nice). In 1199, after the conquest of the Sancho I and the Templars, a fort was built where Nisa now stands. Its first inhabitants came from Nice, and still today French culture seeps throughout this beguiling town.

If travelling from Lisbon, the Pousada da Nossa Senhora da Assunção in the village of Arraiolos, the Pousada Convento dos Loios in beautiful Évora or the Pousada Raínha Santa Isabel in Estremoz are good options. All are reasonably priced and all possess a certain type of magic.

GASTRONOMY

Alentejo's local food is not complicated. On the contrary, it’s simple, somewhat humble, yet delicious and abundant. It tends to be flavoured with herbs and other earthy produce. A good example of this is the typical açorda alentejana – a dish made with breadcrumbs, eggs, garlic, coriander and olive oil. It’s an explosion of flavours that everyone loves!

In Alentejo you will find exceptional bread, very good olive oil and mouth-watering pork. There is also a certain Arabic influence in the local cuisine, a sign of the long Moorish occupancy in the region. This can be appreciated in dishes such as migas à alentejana (paprika-spiced pork with breadcrumbs,) lamb stew and in the soups and local bread. Fish is also on the menu, best enjoyed at the fishermen’s bars situated close to the beaches.

Standout desserts include Pan de Rala from Évora or Sericaia con la Ciruela, a local speciality in Elvas. Or really any one of sweet treats from ovens of the local convents – abundant in this region! If you like good food, Alentejo is the place for you.

So there you have it, a fantastic plan for a short break. What are you waiting for? Book your seat now with Vueling.

Text : Tensi Sánchez www.actitudesmgz.com
Photography : Fernando Sanz

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Eating Out Within Dubrovnik's City Walls – Part I

Dubrovnik's cuisine may go unnoticed, with all the unbeatable charms of this walled city and its surroundings to compete against. These include the relaxing and beautiful island of Lokrum, or the idyllic, forested wine area of Konavle, some 40 minutes south of the city. But many restaurants here go far beyond standard fast food or burgers and offer high-quality Mediterranean food, and often generous portions at tourist-friendly prices. The following are the eateries we have tried out for you.

Tinel

Tiny bar in Antuninska Street. Its terrace has a few tables, but is mainly spread out on a street staircase – a common phenomenon in Dubrovnik cafés. People have their coffee while passers-by walk up or down the steps beside them. This bar is frequented by locals and artists attending the Summer Festival.

Skola

Another small and popular establishment, also located in Antuninska Street. Their Dalmatian ham sandwich, Prsut Sir, is the local's favourite – with salty, smoked ham, cheese and lettuce – and has been served here for the last 50 years. Their delicious homemade white bread is served warm, freshly-baked. Salads, sardines and combined dishes are also on the menu.

Proto

First opened in 1886, Protois an institution in the city, with Dubrovnik’s best cooks having learnt their skills here. This calm, majestic terrace located one storey above the street’s bustle has seen the likes of Tom Cruise, Roger Moore, the Game of Thrones stars, Prince Edward and Wallis Simpson. The chef, Bosko Lonac, is in favour of top quality food without too much fuss. His star dishes are fish with salt and egg yolk, drizzled with oil and lemon juice – that melts in your mouth – or cod risotto, where the ingredients aren’t mixed together, but presented separately on the dish; a shrimp and truffle “salad” of extremely high quality and a very interesting octopus ragù, with polenta soaked in cuttlefish ink. For dessert, we recommend rozata, a pudding with a subtle rose liqueur note.

Kopun

A restaurant with history. Its terrace is surrounded by emblematic buildings, such as the only Baroque church in the city – St Ignatius – a seminary, and a Greek and Latin school. History is also present in their cuisine, featuring traditional Croatian dishes, including capon, eaten since the 16th century (Kopun means capon in Croatian). This versatile delicacy can be found in soups, salads, mixed in a mushroom sauce, oven-baked (for six to eight people), and Dubrovnik style – with figs, carrots and gnocchi – a recipe that is featured in the cookbook of Game of Thrones.

Other dishes worth trying are fuzi (macaroni) with prawns and truffles ­– an Istrian specialty – topped with a langoustine, Slavonian cold meat, lightly smoked and quite spicy, and brodet, a type of fish and seafood stew with polenta and pungent tomato sauce.

Only Croatian wines are served here. We recommend the fresh Malvasija Tezoro white and the powerful Pometred, both from the Konavle wine area. And last, but not least, they are kind enough to provide blankets for the diners.

It opens every day from March to October from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m. Their daily menu costs 10 euros including a fish, meat or vegetarian main course and dessert, drinks excluded. If you opt to dine à la carte, the average price is 25 to 30 euros, without drinks.

Lero Hotel

When travelling to Dubrovnik, we recommend spending the night here. It’s not too pricey and is a 20-minute walk from the historical centre. Modern and very comfy, albeit lacking any frills, this hotel has several rooms with a sea view and amenities such as a swimming pool, a wellness area and a Wi-Fi connection.

After giving you some tips on Dubrovnik’s best spots to dine in, coming soon is an issue of My Vueling City devoted to the cuisine outside the city walls. Come and experience this marvellous city with us! Check out our flights here.

Text and images by Grastronomistas

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