5 Tips for Enjoying Las Fallas to the Full
From the last Sunday in February to 19 March – the feast of St Joseph – Valencia is gripped by its most acclaimed and unique fiesta, Las Fallas (Falles,in Valencian). This year’s edition is one of the first festivities to be celebrated in the city after Las Fallas was designated a World Heritage event by UNESCO on 30 November last year. Here, then, are some pointers to getting the most out of the fiesta.
1. The Origins
Las Fallas pay tribute to St Joseph, the patron saint of carpenters. Popular belief has it that the Fallas originated in the carpenters’ guild where, each year on the eve of St Joseph, they would clean out their workshops and burn the leftover junk in bonfires in an act of purification to mark the arrival of spring. Over the years, those scraps of furniture were remodelled into the now famous dummies known as ninots.
2. It’s Really About “Ninots”
These human effigies echo current affairs by parodying the most controversial public figures of the moment, mostly lampooning them in a spirit of pungent irony. They are the true protagonists of Las Fallas. All the ninots compete to be saved from the flames. The weeks in the run-up to the fiesta, they are collectively put on public display, before being devoured by the flames. Well, all of them except one which, for its originality or painstaking manufacture, will be spared from the fire. Which one will be spared the ordeal this time around?
3. The Crowning Events
The falleras (festival queens) and the firework displays are further ingredients in this celebration, endowing it with a character of its own. The crida or “call” marks the start of the festivity which, as mentioned earlier, takes place on the last Sunday in February. The thunderous mascletàs, the despertà, a firecracker “awakening” marking the start of the day, and the ongoing pyrotechnic displays provide the sound, light and colour which become a constant feature throughout the celebrations, culminating in the cremà, the mass bonfire where theninotsare burned.
4. Culinary Traditions
A must-taste culinary speciality of this fiesta are the buñuelos or fritters – packed with energy, they will help you withstand the riotous goings-on. Whether plain or puff fritters, chocolate ones or those with pumpkin or sweet potato, you should make a point of savouring this delicacy. You can plan your bites at the numerous street stalls around the city, or opt to head for the classical venues where this speciality is served, like the Horchatería Santa Catalina, located in the heart of the old town, the Horchatería El Collado or L’Orxateria del Mercat Central.
Seeing you’re in Valencia, the land of master paella makers, you won’t be surprised to learn that this culinary marvel abounds among the fiesta dishes. Don’t hesitate to join the crowds around the various open-air, mass paellas simmering away.
5. Beyond the Fiesta
Take advantage of your stay in Valencia to tour its historic centre and soak up such gems as Valencia Cathedral, La Lonja de la Seda (Silk Exchange), in elegant, civil-Gothic style, the Central Market, a fine example of pre-Modernist architecture, the city’s magnificent palaces and its medieval gates.
You should also make a point of visiting the Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias (City of Art and Science), where you are bound to be amazed by the futuristic buildings, designed by architect Santiago Calatrava.
Be sure to book your Vueling to Valencia to experience first-hand one of the city’s most important and exciting celebrations.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by keith ellwood
more infoFive Culinary Enticements in Majorca
While “The Times” recently described Palma de Mallorca as “the best place to live in the world”, it should be noted that Majorca is not just Palma and that you are likely to come across your “ideal spot” at any location on the island. I imagine that the Germans would agree, too… On this, the largest of the Balearic islands, there are so many hedonistic enticements that they can scarcely be encompassed in a single getaway. That is why many finally decide to “occupy it”. With the island’s gastronomy as a pretext, here are some key venues in Palma and the rest of the island for tasting it, according to one’s appetite and urges. Some might seek a simple snack; others, a full-blown banquet.
Ensaimada. You will get tired of seeing them everywhere, but at Ca’n Joan de S’Aigo they make the best ensaimadas, which are also for takeaways. Plain or filled with custard, cream or apricot. Don’t be put off by the queues or the time-worn appearance of this pastry shop, arguably resembling your grandparents’ living room. If you’d rather try something different, go for the gató or the cuarto, two traditional, homemade Majorcan sponges.
Sobrasada. Still in Palma, you will come across lots of grocery stores that sell sobrasada. The legendary one is Santo Domingo, where you can see it on display in all its shapes and varieties. The sobrasada sold at the Xesc Reina delicatessen, or La Luna, in Sóller, is delicious spread on toast and honey.
Well-Starred Cuisine
Enogastronomy is on a high, riding on the back of names, paradigms and also Michelin stars. The island is now a foodie destination of the first order, thanks to the cuisine and “gastro-activism” of such chefs as Andreu Genestra and Fernando Pérez Arellano. Both use ingredients sourced locally which they show off in style in reasonably priced/quality tasting menus.
Andreu, in the Son Jaumell hotel, and Fernando in the spectacular Castell Son Claret, grow and pamper much of the raw material for their dishes in situ. Andreu also explores new techniques in his recipes, such as smoked spices, while Fernando dishes up signature breakfasts coveted by other hotels on the island.
Casual Cuisine
Stop off at Claxon, preferably with a prior booking, to discover the “composite cuisine” typifying this establishment, with its garden, lunch menu and portions menu. Amid the bustle of Santa Catalina, head for Patrón Lunares, featuring well-known dishes reworked with aplomb and served up in ingenious guises. You can also have a drink at both places.
Eclectic Cuisine
Rialto Living is the place to head for in downtown Palma if you’re looking for a classy, arty, cultured multi-disciplinary space with fine cuisine. A new restaurant will shortly be opened on the first floor, but you can meanwhile take a seat at one of the café tables and order a snack, or try their fusion cuisine.
And, Two Stayover Options in Palma
Sant Francesc. The hallmark of this hotel, housed in a listed building in Palma’s historic centre, is the well-being of their guests. With spacious rooms and common areas, a rooftop swimming pool, a cocktail bar and a substantial collection of contemporary art and photography, no wonder this spanking new hotel is already one of the “Small Luxury Hotels of the World.”
Can Alomar. On the most exclusive stretch of the Born de Palma promenade, this classical-style luxury hotel affords panoramic views of the Cathedral and harbour from its rooftop solarium, as well as from its restaurant terrace, where sipping a drink on high is an elating experience.
Delicious, isn’t it? Why wait to discover these five gastronomic idylls in Majorca? Check out our flights here.
Text by Belén Parra (Gastronomistas)
Photos by Belén Parra y Vera Lair
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Warsaw: Beyond the Royal Route
The city of Warsaw extends into two unequal parts on both sides of the Vistula river. Even though most of the tourist attractions are located on the left bank, in the so called Royal Route- the prestigious historic walk in Warsaw Trakt Królewski – and the trendy shops of Nowy Swiat. But beyond the Royal Castle, the Wilanów Palace and the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier we find a modern city, wanting to reinvent itself.
Prague: the bohemian district of Warsaw
On the right bank of the Vistula, right after crossing the historic zoo, it is located the neighborhood of Prague, a place that has successfully reinvented itself like no other in Warsaw and where now come to live young artists that have boosted the area with art galleries and craft shops. Its walls, once gray, are now full of murals and paintings that give a different color to the district.
Prague is now one of the most active cultural centers in town and with the mostt exciting nightlife scene beyond fashions and conventional trends. A place where creativity arises from the most unexpected corner.
Come up to the number 14 in Otwocka street, where is located the artistic, gastronomic and leisure center Centrum Artystyczne Fabryka Trzciny; certainly one of the most vibrant parts of the city.
The pianist in Warsaw
The Polish director Roman Polanski perfectly recreated the city occupied by the Germans in his film The Pianist, which recreates the memories of the pianist Szpilman, played by actor Adrian Brody. It was precisely the Prague neighborhood the chosen one for the filming of some scenes due to the abundance of original buildings of the time, who set the perfect city’s set for that time. Other scenes were shot in and around the city, and in the Military Academy in Warsaw, where the Umschlagplatz’s scene happens , when the family of Szpilman along with other Jews are tucked to death in a freight train that will take them to the concentration camp.
Close to Centrum metro station, we can find the area where the Ghetto was located during the German occupation and some few remains of the wall that formed the Warsaw Ghetto’s boundary, in the streets and Zlota Sienna.
On the trail of Chopin
Warsaw is the city of composer Frédéric Chopin, so following ”the avenue of musical banks” that indicate the main points related to the great musician is a fun way to discover it ; 15 black interactive banks that were installed in 2010, coinciding with the 200th anniversary of Chopin’s birth.
These banks will guide you through the most emblematic places of his life like his home in Warsaw in the Czapski Palace and the Church of the Holy Cross where you will find his heart in a box . To facilitate the route there is a QR code that will take you directly to a web audio guide in several languages. In addition, the banks have a button that, when pressed, releases fragments of some of his compositions.
The Cluster Waste
Gnojna Góra (the cluster waste) is the peculiar name of the main viewpoint of the city. Here was indeed, from the Middle Ages until the late eighteenth century, the municipal rubbish dump but as the city began to expand this area was too central to such use. From here, you have the best views over the river, district of Prague or the Cathedral of St. Michael.
Discover its cuisine
Of course! One of the best and most enjoyable ways to know a city is starting from its cuisine. Try the bigosz – Poland’s national dish which is prepared with boiled cabbage and sausages-, the pierogy -the cooked dumplings so common in Polish gastronomy-, the varszcz – a soup made of beet very usual in almost all Eastern European cuisine – and the various recipes using mushrooms.
Why not take a trip to Warsaw? Have a look at our flights here!
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The city of vermouth
In general the rule is that the further north you go in Italy, the more entrenched is the habit to enjoy the appetizer. Not surprisingly, the Piedmont area is known for the production of vermouth with brands such as Martini, Cinzano and Carpano.
The vermouth was invented in the cellar of Antonio Carpano’s in Turin in 1786 and from there the Piedmontese nobility made it fashionable. There are other versions that trace their origin to Hippocrates, the famous Greek physician who mixed white wine with plants like the wormwood to create a beverage for medicinal purposes. But it was not until 1838 that the brothers Giuseppe and Luigi Cora began to develop it industrially and distributed it worldwide.
Now the word vermouth has a more generic meaning. It refers both to the drink and to eat a tapa before lunch. In Italy the starter is not at noon as in Spain, but after work. It usually starts from 18:00 and end at 21:00 AM and is an economical way to take a break from work while sipping a drink and snacks, which can be alcoholic or not.
A very common option is the spritz, -with aperol, champagne, an orange slice and ice- the Negroni -with gin, campari, vermouth and an orange slice- the mascerotti -with wine, soda and champagne- or the Amaretti di Voltaggio, which goes along with their famous focaccia, savory pastries and other delicacies.
In Genoa, a port where botanical species from around the world arrived, the habit is strictly fulfilled and the tastiest appetizers are prepared. Here vermouth is a deeply ingrained habit, a social act that almost no one renounces. A moment to enjoy after work, listening to the tinkling of ice crashing.
You can have it in the historical premises or in the modern establishments that agglutinate especially in the Piazza delle Erbe, San Donato, Via San Bernardo or Porto Antico area.
Here’s the theory, now let's put it into practice!
Pasticceria Liquoreria Marescottis Cavo
Via di Fossatello, 35R and 37R
In the old town of Genoa, -the largest medieval quarter in Europe- you can find this historic café, bakery and liquor store. A local that dates back from the eighteenth century, which retains its old Charles X style furniture and a floor designed by Rubens himself. Tourists come to the establishment to observe the "prettiest pastry Genoa", to try their high quality confectionery and the Marescotti appetizer, a herbal vermouth.
You must keep an open mind to find the restaurant on the first floor because they have no sign.
Le Corbusier
Via di San Donato, 36R
Another historic local is Le Corbusier, specialists in cocktails-some self-created- and that has gained prestigious national and international awards. Martini itself can be found in twelve different variants.
Caffè il Barbarossa
Piano di Sant Andrea 23
www.cafeilbarbarossa.com
With an enviable location -very close to the house where Christopher Columbus lived-, and one of the most fun places to enjoy the most original appetizer in Genoa with its pleasant outdoor area, especially during summer.
The Caffè Barbarossa offers a wide range of whiskeys, cocktails and international wines and sparkling Genoese, in their restaurant, you will find vegetarian and vegan dishes. Look closely at their walls where the original rates of the brothels of the historical town hang.
Libreria delle Erbe
Piazza delle Erbe, 25R
An old bookstore downtown now transformed into a modern place. It still retains the spirit of the literary coffee -to consult and buy books-but, while enjoying cultural interventions you can also have a good coffee, snacks, cocktails, wines and beers.
They have a full weekly program of activities for lovers of art and culture.
Picture by Termolan
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