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Tasty Eating in Palermo’s Markets and Other Spots

Palermo strikes a curious balance between large shopping precincts and narrow streets exuding romantic decadence, between makeshift street grill-stalls throbbing with electronic music and leisurely faddish restaurants. The city is, at times, caught up in another era, but also in the present, while aspiring to a better future.

A city of contrasts, influences and cultural convergence, Palermo has a lot to say in gastronomic terms. Both pasta and pizza are a mainstay of local cuisine, as they are in the rest of Italy, although here they have been revamped, displaying surprising traits, and combined with other local dishes that draw heavily on the sea or trip and offal. And, it is immediately evident the moment you walk into any of its markets, a must-see attraction if you happen to journey here.

Vucciria, Il Capo and Ballaró

Palermo’s three markets. They open every day except Sunday, from early in the morning until nightfall. As the stall produce becomes depleted, they clear up and bolt the small garages that act as storerooms. The markets are best visited in the morning, if you want to enjoy them in full swing. There’ll be vegetables you have likely never seen before, as well as spices, cheeses, a wealth of different olives, peppers, huge swordfish heads…

You can try street specialities such as pane con la milza or pani ca’ meusa (a sandwich of spleen fried in lard, served up with caciocavallo or ricotta cheese and lemon), arancini (fried rice balls, usually stuffed with meat) and panelle (gram flour fritters).

You could also take a breather and enjoy a marsala (vintage wine) at such bars as the legendary Taverna Azzurra, in the Vucciria, a meeting point every weekend after nightfall, when the market streets have been taken over by the youth, birras, music, table football and grills stuffed with stigghiola (tripe seasoned with salt, pepper and lemon, with or without bread).

You can stroll through the markets, sip a marsala wine and eat stigghiola. But you can also trek across the whole city and take note of some of the eateries worth visiting.

Da Diego. Pizzas and more, on the Via della Libertá. Not a tourist in sight and filled to bursting. An assortment of thick-dough pizzas stuffed with ingredients. We go for the one with mozzarella, sausage, spinach and mushrooms, accompanied by some swordfish involtini (rolls) with aubergine sauce, and sfinzione (Sicilian pizza) stuffed with ricotta and pesto. This is a type of focaccia topped with a crust of tomato, caciocavallo cheese, anchovy, onion and aromatic herbs.

Trattoria Michele & Jolanda. Just like home. We expected home cooking and, boy, did we get it! There you’ll be welcomed by Michele in the dining-room and Jolanda in the kitchen, sitting down at the table as if she were a guest. We order caponata (aubergine and other vegetables in tomato sauce), caprese (tomato, fresh mozzarella and basil) and a cold pepper salad as antipasti. Then pasta alla norma (tomato, aubergine and other vegetables), accompanied by le sarde, a typical Palermo recipe based on fresh sardines and fennel. And, not to be disloyal to the traditional repertoire, we round it off with cannoli– crisp, rolled pastry wafers filled with ricotta cheese. If you’re looking for an entertaining, lively, tasty, homemade meal at a good price, don’t fail to come here. It’s on the Via Cappuccini 12.

Osteria Mangia e Bevi. Quaint and pleasant. Beyond the family milieu we come to a trendier restaurant, but without foregoing fresh, wholesome cuisine, of course. We can recommend this restaurant for its fresh pasta, its fried pasta and its agglassati – two traditional ways of using up leftovers from yesterday’s dishes. Ideal, too, for tasting local wines and a marvellous cannolo served in a glass.

Other Pointers

When it comes to lodgings, we can recommend the Castelnuovo area, set in a shopping precinct and just a stone’s throw from the old town. We stayed at the Hotel Politeama, which is functional and provides wonderful, congenial service and a breakfast not lacking in sweet, savoury, fruit, jams with a host of flavours, different kinds of bread and even cannoli! The hotel looks onto a large piazza and the airport bus stops right outside the door, giving you a headstart if you want to move about without wasting time.

If you have the odd day left over, you are encouraged to get out of Palermo and discover a bit of Sicily. To accomplish this it is wise to get in touch with Ulisse, which organises regular, private outings from there. They really look after you – you won’t have any language difficulties and will be spared hassles when you need to use public transport and pick your way through the island’s chaotic traffic.

A destination worth discovering – Check out our flights here.

Text and photos by Silvia Artaza (Gastronomistas)

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BeerRouteBohemia

Beer is unquestionably one of the Czech Republic’s star performers. There, the valued elixir is more than sacred. Czechs love beer and are actually the world’s largest consumers per capita, putting back an average of 137 litres a year. The country boasts an endless array of brands, churned out either by large breweries or small family concerns. The latest trend is to blend different flavours in order to generate a bigger selection. Here, beer is a veritable institution, and a fad which is fast catching on is to bathe in the frothy gold liquid.

Following is a rundown of the best places to enjoy pivo (“beer”, in Czech).

Prague

Our beer route through the Czech Republic starts in the capital. Prague’s most famous beer is Staropramen, made at a brewery in the Smíchov district, which is well worth the visit. The brewery, which opened in 1869, includes sections with exhibits from that historic period.

The city’s most celebrated restaurant and beergarden is U Fleků, located in the historical centre. Once inside its huge interior, we recommend you pick up the menu and order some typical Czech dishes to go with your beer.

The best Pilsner Urquell is probably to be found in the Pivnice U Hrochů (“Hippo Beergarden”) on Thunovská Street, where the brew comes with an inch of head. Some claim that to test whether a beer has been poured properly, you should place a euro coin on top. If it floats, the beer has been served correctly. Another beer centre is the restaurant U Bansethů (Táborská Street 4). Opposite is a small brewery, the Sousedský pivovar Bašta, where you can also taste the beverage. If, however, you prefer to go for the more avant-garde flavours, make sure you head to the Nota Bene bar at Mikovcova Street 4, Prague 2.

However, beer does not exist solely for consumption, as attested by the Beer spa Bernard, located near the City Hall and the Powder Tower. Here you will enjoy a unique experience consisting of a soothing, curative beer bath. Needless to say, the spa session includes knocking back a Bernard beer.

Southern Bohemia

Our next stop takes us to southern Bohemia and the pretty town of České Budějovice. There stands another of the Czech Republic’s emblematic breweries – where Budvar beer is produced – known the world over as Budweiser Budvar. On our tour of the brewery they showed how the beverage was brewed by the traditional method, and how it is done nowadays. The visit also includes a tasting session of their famous pale lager.

Near České Budějovice lies the medieval jewel of Český Krumlov and the Village Golf Hotel Svachův Dvůr (Svachova Lhotka 1, Mirkovice). The hotel complex boasts its own small brewery, the Glokner, where they produce a Czech lager that is adapted to the different seasons – in summer, it is brewed “light”, whereas in winter it turns out somewhat “heavier” and more full-bodied. And, to round off your enjoyment of this beverage, the hotel offers its guests baths in their own beer.

Western Bohemia

North-west of Český Krumlov lies the city of Plzeň (Pilsen), the cradle of Czech beer. Discover the jealously guarded secrets of this beer city in this other post at My Vueling City. An hour’s drive away is a small town called Chodová Planá, known for its beer spa, the first of its kind in the Czech Republic. The spa offers the combined curative properties of a local mineral water known as Ilsano, Chodovar beer, hops and active beer yeast. And, if you’re a beer spa enthusiast, there is also a splendid spa town called Karlovy Vary.

Central Bohemia

We made our last stop at Žatec. This region, the country’s leading hops producer, is where the universally known Pilsner Urquell is brewed. It is clearly the best area for producing lagers. Here you can also visit the Žatecký pivovar brewery.

By now you must be quite thirsty, and not exactly for water! Get going and arrange your trip to Prague – check out our flights here.

 

Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Images by Czech Tourism

 

 

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Reykjavik – the World’s Northernmost Capital City

Nearly two thirds of Iceland’s inhabitants live in the capital, Reykjavik, regarded as one of the greenest, cleanest and safest cities on the planet. In winter, there are hardly 4 hours of sunlight a day. On the contrary, if you happen to visit it around the summer solstice, you will find yourself in a city where the sun never completely sets at all. This enables tourists to make the most of their time in Iceland’s capital city, before embarking on the customary trip around the Icelandic Ring Road which skirts the whole island.

The major sightseeing area in Reykjavik is the western district of Miðborg, the city’s historical centre. Hljómskálagarður park, with its Tjörnin lake, is a good starting point, as you can sit on a bench and get your bearings on a map before venturing out on a walking route which will take you to the most interesting places in the city. At one end of the lake stands Iceland University (Háskóli Íslands) while, if you cross the bridge over it, you come to the National Gallery of Iceland, housing exhibits by the country’s most famous artists and a performance centre for traditional Icelandic culture. Standing next to it is the Reykjavik Free Church, founded in 1899, an alternative to the National Lutheran Church.

Iceland’s Parliament, known as the Alþingi, is located just a few blocks away. Built of dressed stone, it dates from 1881, although the institution itself goes back to the year 930 and is one of the oldest elected assemblies in the world.

Time for a Snack

Whether in summer or winter, one’s notion of time is somewhat warped in Iceland, on account of the marked changes in daylight hours. If there is one thing sacred in life it is snacking and Reykjavik is no exception. Heading along Lækjargata street, you come across the striking Harpa concert and conference hall, but press on towards the city’s harbour. Shortly before arriving, you pass by one of the must-see sights of the city, a hotdog stand known as Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur. Alright – we know it’s just a boiled sausage served in a typical bun smothered in various sauces, and it’s eaten outdoors, but at number 1 Tryggvagata street hundreds of sausages are served every day and long queues build up at the hotdog stand. This is undoubtedly one of the most popular gastronomic customs in Reykjavik and the most famous sausage in Iceland.

After building up your strength, it is time to continue exploring the city. The harbour is divided between the districts of Miðborg and Vesturbær. The latter is home to the Vikin Maritime Museum in which cod fishing is accorded special importance. You can taste Icelandic codfish in one of the restaurants in the harbour area, as well as other typical dishes such as lobster soup, salmon and lamb. To round off the experience, you can hire a fishing rod and while away the afternoon, or set sail on a whale-sighting excursion in Faxaflói bay.

The main area with bars is Austurstræti street and environs, while the shopping area is scattered along Laugavegur and Skólavörðustígur street. Prominent among the stores selling garments, design and food is the Álafoss wool store, the best known and traditional Icelandic wool brand. Here you can also purchase a typical Icelandic jersey, known as a Lopapeysa.

Before nightfall, you should wrap up your visit by taking in the best views of the city, which are afforded by the vantage point that is Hallgrímskirkja Church. Access to the belfry costs ISK 600 (about €4), but it is well worth the price. You could end off the day in an inviting pop-up restaurant where you can taste a peculiar fusion between Basque and Icelandic cuisine. Sumendi, as it is called, organises several dinners during the year.

If you make the journey in summer, the sun will be a constant throughout your stay, so you’d best wind up the day at the famous sculpture known as Sólfar (The Sun Voyager), evocative of places to be discovered and countries to be seen, like those Vueling brings you close to through its air routes.

Haritz Rodriguez is a travel journalist and blogger with over 17 years’ experience in radio, television, press and internet. He is an editor of Tokitan.tv and director of the Barking Blogs communication studio.

Text, images and video by Haritz Rodriguez, of Barking Blogs

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Where to Eat and Drink in Reykjavik

Reykjavik is the ideal starting point for an adventurous road trip along endless snowy roads, sometimes surrounded by vegetation, lunar landscapes and fascinatingly intriguing rocky backdrops. The geography of one of the most enchanting countries in the world consists of lakes, mountains, volcanoes, fjords and glaciers, among other spectacular landscape features. Its capital, Reykjavik, is a trendy paradise dominated by middle-class inhabitants. There you may bump into Björk enjoying a cappuccino in the carefree environment of a café where top quality food is served. To assist you in the choice of great dining options in Reykjavik, we have chosen 8 restaurants you can never go wrong with.

1. Lava Restaurant

Aside from being situated in a fairy-tale location, the Blue Lagoon restaurant is representative of Iceland's creative cuisine. Its chef, Viktor Orn Andresson, who was named best Nordic chef of 2014, offers creative, organic cuisine, with an emphasis on fresh fish and vegetables. Here you can see the geothermal waters and lava formations of the Blue Lagoon open-air spa by just looking out the dining room's glass walls. Alternatively, an outdoor bathe in these warm medicinal waters can be enjoyed regardless of the freezing ambient temperature, while indulging in Icelandic avant-garde cuisine. Their dishes range from mutton tartar with spicy radish to garlic and crayfish soup, to delicious cod with citrus fruits.

2. Kopar

Charming restaurant with spectacular views, located by the harbour. This delightful eatery is always busy thanks to their delectable seasonal cuisine, fresh produce – lovingly prepared – and a no-nonsense approach. They boast a great international wine list, with slightly higher prices than the rest of the menu, in addition to a wonderful choice of lavish dishes, some among the best we have ever tried – the harbour-style tuna (lightly roasted, with garlic chips), cod tongue with garlic and cherry, and creamy lobster risotto. Undoubtedly a must.

3. Kolabrautin

A visit to Reykjavik is incomplete without gazing up at the stunning Harpa building. Located by the sea, it houses a macro concert and conference hall that won a Mies Van Der Rohe prize and is the headquarters of the Icelandic Symphonic Orchestra and Opera. After a photo shoot of this glazed building and a sneak-peak at their design store, we can take the lift up to the 4th floor to Kolabrautin, its snazzy restaurant. While soaking up what is likely the best view of the city, you can enjoy a well-blended fusion of Icelandic and Italian cuisine, accompanied by a blissful cocktail or a glass of wine. If you would rather venture into one of the numerous eateries of the main street – Laugavegur, a paradise of art, design and fashion shops, cute cafés and restaurants – you can always move on to Kolabrautin after supper for some drinks.

4. Café Babalú

From the cosmopolitan sophistication of the last three options to the informality of this enchanting café. Café Babalú welcomes anyone at any time of the day, with an original and picturesque ambience and a menu that ranges from homemade cakes to soups, sandwiches and vegetarian pies. When approaching it from the street you'll see a pretty yellow house and, on entering, you'll be greeted by an interior of various types of vintage furniture. This renders Babalú the ideal location to enjoy the marvellous view from its glass front while clutching a massive cappuccino with both hands. Their cheesecake is the city's most popular.

5. Te & Kaffi

This bookshop café is a required stop. From its terrace you can sit back and watch Reykjavik's placid everyday life.If the weather is not on your side, you can take a seat at an indoor table and enjoy a large coffee and an equally remarkably-sized slice of cake. Meanwhile, you can flip through one of their art and design books in a pleasant and cosy atmosphere. This chain of cafés can also be found in some shopping centres.

6. Mokka

One of the first things that will strike you when you set foot in Reykjavik is that Icelanders love huge cafés and homemade pastries. Indeed, the city is teeming with establishments packed with surprisingly slim hipsters, considering the amount of cakes they put away. One of the busiest cafés in town is Mokka, frequented by local artists, where their wonderful waffles are a must-try. No Wi-Fi connection here but, so what?

7. The Laundromat Cafe

As most things in Reykjavik, this place is super cute but, take note, their hamburgers are among the best you will find here. A totally kid-friendly spot with a playroom, this delightful café with wood-panelled walls is just as trendy as it is cosy. Bright, spacious and charismatic, The Laundromat Café is always lively and – yes – you can do your laundry here.

8. Slipp Bar

Like other buildings across the road from Reykjavik harbour, the bar of the Icelandair Hotel Reykjavik Marina is a tribute to Scandinavian good taste (to the point it may give you Stendhal syndrome). An overnight stay at this soberly charming three-star is well worthwhile, and you'll almost fall asleep to the lullaby of the waves. Both Slipp Bar and the hotel are exquisitely decorated and are ideal spots to spend an afternoon in Reykjavik. Here you can enjoy a mid-morning coffee, a snack in the afternoon or a cocktail in the late evening, always with views over the sea and a designer lamp above you.

Feeling hungry? Check out our flights and discover Reykjavik's fabulous cuisine now!

Text and images by Laura Conde (Gastronomistas)

 

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