Reykjavik – the World’s Northernmost Capital City
Nearly two thirds of Iceland’s inhabitants live in the capital, Reykjavik, regarded as one of the greenest, cleanest and safest cities on the planet. In winter, there are hardly 4 hours of sunlight a day. On the contrary, if you happen to visit it around the summer solstice, you will find yourself in a city where the sun never completely sets at all. This enables tourists to make the most of their time in Iceland’s capital city, before embarking on the customary trip around the Icelandic Ring Road which skirts the whole island.
The major sightseeing area in Reykjavik is the western district of Miðborg, the city’s historical centre. Hljómskálagarður park, with its Tjörnin lake, is a good starting point, as you can sit on a bench and get your bearings on a map before venturing out on a walking route which will take you to the most interesting places in the city. At one end of the lake stands Iceland University (Háskóli Íslands) while, if you cross the bridge over it, you come to the National Gallery of Iceland, housing exhibits by the country’s most famous artists and a performance centre for traditional Icelandic culture. Standing next to it is the Reykjavik Free Church, founded in 1899, an alternative to the National Lutheran Church.
Iceland’s Parliament, known as the Alþingi, is located just a few blocks away. Built of dressed stone, it dates from 1881, although the institution itself goes back to the year 930 and is one of the oldest elected assemblies in the world.
Time for a Snack
Whether in summer or winter, one’s notion of time is somewhat warped in Iceland, on account of the marked changes in daylight hours. If there is one thing sacred in life it is snacking and Reykjavik is no exception. Heading along Lækjargata street, you come across the striking Harpa concert and conference hall, but press on towards the city’s harbour. Shortly before arriving, you pass by one of the must-see sights of the city, a hotdog stand known as Bæjarins Beztu Pylsur. Alright – we know it’s just a boiled sausage served in a typical bun smothered in various sauces, and it’s eaten outdoors, but at number 1 Tryggvagata street hundreds of sausages are served every day and long queues build up at the hotdog stand. This is undoubtedly one of the most popular gastronomic customs in Reykjavik and the most famous sausage in Iceland.
After building up your strength, it is time to continue exploring the city. The harbour is divided between the districts of Miðborg and Vesturbær. The latter is home to the Vikin Maritime Museum in which cod fishing is accorded special importance. You can taste Icelandic codfish in one of the restaurants in the harbour area, as well as other typical dishes such as lobster soup, salmon and lamb. To round off the experience, you can hire a fishing rod and while away the afternoon, or set sail on a whale-sighting excursion in Faxaflói bay.
The main area with bars is Austurstræti street and environs, while the shopping area is scattered along Laugavegur and Skólavörðustígur street. Prominent among the stores selling garments, design and food is the Álafoss wool store, the best known and traditional Icelandic wool brand. Here you can also purchase a typical Icelandic jersey, known as a Lopapeysa.
Before nightfall, you should wrap up your visit by taking in the best views of the city, which are afforded by the vantage point that is Hallgrímskirkja Church. Access to the belfry costs ISK 600 (about €4), but it is well worth the price. You could end off the day in an inviting pop-up restaurant where you can taste a peculiar fusion between Basque and Icelandic cuisine. Sumendi, as it is called, organises several dinners during the year.
If you make the journey in summer, the sun will be a constant throughout your stay, so you’d best wind up the day at the famous sculpture known as Sólfar (The Sun Voyager), evocative of places to be discovered and countries to be seen, like those Vueling brings you close to through its air routes.
Haritz Rodriguez is a travel journalist and blogger with over 17 years’ experience in radio, television, press and internet. He is an editor of Tokitan.tv and director of the Barking Blogs communication studio.
Text, images and video by Haritz Rodriguez, of Barking Blogs
more infoA Route Through the Seville of Don Juan Tenorio
There is one night in the year inevitably associated with witches, horror stories, pumpkins, bonfires and disguises and that it is 31 October, the eve of All Saints. One of the many traditions alive in Spain is the stage performance of Don Juan Tenorio, by the poet, José Zorrilla. The ritual has been performed continuously ever since it made its debut around 1844. While at first glance a romantic drama might seem out of place on a night more suited to The Munsters, there is a reason for it – much of the second act in the play takes place in a cemetery, and many of the protagonists are dead souls who come alive and interact with the lead figure. Chilling, isn’t it?
Don Juan Tenorio’s Seville
Having solved the first mystery, a second issue arises. What connection is there between one of the most popular Juanes in literature and the city of Seville? First, it was here in Seville that José Zorrilla wrote his stage play and where the story is set. Granted, Zorrilla was actually inspired by Tirso de Molina’s The Trickster of Seville and the Stone Guest, written in 1630, which is where the myth of Don Juan stems from. The work ended up seducing such artists as Molière, Mozart, Lord Byron and Espronceda, among others.
A different, entertaining way of touring Seville is to stroll along its streets in search of possible sites featured in that drama, and the spots where tributes to the work are located. Here are some of them:
The Hostería del Laurel (Plaza Venerables 5) is located in the heart of Santa Cruz, one of the most popular districts in Seville. This former boarding house is where José Zorrilla lodged when he wrote Don Juan Tenorio. This, the birthplace of the literary classic, also acted as a source of inspiration for some scenes. Despite the passage of time, it is still worth venturing inside, where some of its historical essence has survived intact.
A few yards from the Hostería del Laurel lies the Plaza de la Alianza, site of the home of Doña Ana de Pantoja, the future wife of Don Luis Mejía, who rivalled Don Juan Tenorio when it came to causing mischief. There is actually a scene in this square where Don Juan tries to wrest his beloved from the grasp of Don Luis.
It is more difficult to find the convent where Doña Inés – one of the main characters in this romantic drama – was confined. The convent belonged to the Order of Calatrava, which is why the habits she wears bear the emblematic red cross of Calatrava. Indeed, a convent once stood in the Calle de Calatrava, which was re-christened thus in honour of the literary work. Following the disentailment it was subsequently demolished, the sole surviving vestige being a chapel which was eventually turned into a warehouse. Easier to locate is the Plaza de Santa Marta, which everyone agrees was the spot where Doña Inés was abducted by our hero.
Still in the beautiful Santa Cruz quarter, we find the Plaza de Doña Elvira, site of the home of Don Gonzalo de Ulloa, the father of Doña Inés, who was staunchly against her alliance with Don Juan.
Concerning the location of Don Juan Tenorio’s house, literary sources cite it as being on the banks of the river Guadalquivir, where he ended up fleeing, although the exact spot is unknown. There is also the real site because, if you’ve done some reading on the subject, the Tenorio family actually existed and tradition places them in the Convent of San Leandro, situated in the square of the same name.
The scene of the final duel, in which Captain Centella kills Don Juan Tenorio, takes place in the present-day Calle Génova, now re-christened the Avenida de la Constitución.
To wind up this tour commemorating the literary classic, you can visit the Plaza de los Refinadores where a statue to Don Juan Tenorio, sculpted by Nicomedes Díaz Piquero, was erected in 1975.
By the way – if you’re in Seville any weekend from 31 October to 15 November, we recommend visiting the San Fernando Cemeterywhere Engranajes Culturales is staging a dramatised visit and performance of the third act of Don Juan Tenorio.
Ready to be a Don Juan in Seville? Secure your Vueling ticket here.
Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
Images by Víctor Fernández Salinas, Consuelo Ternero, Sandra Vallaure
more infoA Walk Through Sofia with Fuel Fandango
Fuel Fandango is a duo made up of the producer, Alejandro Acosta (also on the Mojo Project) and the Cordovan singer, Cristina Manjón, better known as Nita. The project has been ongoing since 2010 and the duo have built up one of the largest fan bases in Spain, with a large following beyond its borders, too. They made their recording debut in 2011 with a disc and publication of the same name. It was an instant hit with its bold style blend of funk, electronic, flamenco and copla. “Trece Lunas”, an even greater success, emerged two years later. Here at My Vueling City we love Fuel Fandango, a fact that prompted us to ask them for a rundown on the spots they liked best in Sofia during their concert tour there.
“This is the third time we’ve played in Sofia. We love the city and each time we discover new parts of it with a charm all their own. The people are very hospitable and warm. We always feel welcome whenever we come here”, Fuel Fandango told us on their return from the Bulgarian capital. Theirs was a working trip: “We played in the Sofia Live Club, one of the most delightful spots we’ve visited. It’s like a New York jazz club, but on a larger scale, with spectacular sound and a pleasing stage. Most of the international stars that tour Sofia have played at that venue.” However, they also found time to enjoy themselves.
Eating Away
Yoghurt,lukanka (a kind of sausage) and salad are some of the most typical foods in Bulgarian cuisine. Fruit and vegetables are also plentiful, thanks to the good climate. Very popular, too, are barbecues of pork, chicken and lamb. “We went to several typical Bulgarian restaurants – gastronomic tourism is our thing! The first night we went to Bulgary, an inviting, traditional-style eatery founded in 1922. Bulgarian food and wine are wonderful!” But things did not stop there: “We also visited another Bulgarian restaurant; this time, a more modern one. We can wholeheartedly recommend it – it’s called MoMa and the decor is really cool. It combines traditional design elements with contemporary ones.” Also characteristic of Bulgaria’s gastronomy is the variety of local wines and other alcoholic drinks like rakia, mastika and mint. Bulgarian has some fine wines, prominent among them being Dimiat and Mavrud.
Hidden Treasures and the Crown Jewel
They also found time to sightsee and uncover some small gems: “We also stopped off at record shops, as we always do when we tour abroad, to seek out new music and hidden treasures. They took us to this basement store, in a really out-of-the-way place. In the second-hand section, Ale went to town, coming away with some authentic jewels, including some vinyls of traditional Bulgarian music.” The store is called Dukyan Meloman, said Nita, adding: “The city centre is rather small, but it’s really nice to wander through its streets, with small shops of all kinds. It’s very lively.” Although Alejandro would have liked to stay on longer in that bargain basement, they still had time to see other charming spots in the city. “In the square with the Alejandro Nevski Cathedral (one of the largest orthodox churches in the world, and really priceless), there are antique stalls with loads of intriguing objects from the old Soviet Union.”
It was clearly an emotionally charged trip: “We’ve played in Sofia three years on the trot and each time it gets better. We’re still blown away when we see fans in the front rows singing our songs. One girl sang one of our tunes and her mother said she had signed up for Spanish classes at the Instituto Cervantes because she wanted to learn our songs. These are the stories we find the most touching.” The Instituto Cervantes is a Spanish state institution with the mission to promote and teach the Spanish language, and to spread Spanish and Latin American culture. It played a major part in organising and publicising this concert. They also helped us get in touch with the group.
Come and discover Sofia now! Check out our flights here.
Text by Fuel Fandango e ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
Images by Fuel Fandango, n-Off Entertainment, Dennis Jarvis, Bulgary, MoMa, Instituto Cervantes
more infoJaffa the Oldest Port in the World
Jaffa or Yafo, as it is known in Hebrew, is one of the oldest ports in the world. According to the Bible, it was founded by Japheth, one of the sons of Noah, after the Great Flood and it was from here, too, that Jonah set sail on his voyage, before being swallowed by a whale. Myths, legends and stories attenuated by the passage of time – the fact is that Jaffa is one of the most charming spots on Israel’s seaboard. Its narrow streets, craft stalls and views of Tel Aviv make this a magical place to wander through leisurely.
History, Artists and Street Markets
Various excavations in the area have unearthed remains dating back to 2,000 BC, making Jaffa one of the oldest active ports in the world.
After a period of splendour and its flourishing under the Ottomans, Jaffa went into a period of decline on account of the growth experienced by neighbouring Tel Aviv, which absorbed it in 1948. Today, however, it has become one of the city’s most vibrant districts.
The entrance to Jaffa is dominated by the Clock-tower, built in 1921 to mark the 25th anniversary of the Turkish sultan at the time. Radiating out from the tower are a number of streets that make up the street market. In Jaffa you can find souvenirs, craftwork and even second-hand objects. Be sure to visit the flea market, held every Sunday morning between Yefet street and the Jerusalem Boulevard. Their wares range from brick-a-brac to mid-century designer jewellery, furniture and crockery. If you won’t be visiting the quarter on a Sunday, however, rest assured all the streets make up one big bazaar where you can always pick up the odd gem any day of the week.
What’s more, the streets surrounding the market feature quaint, vintage-style restaurants with terraces where you can dip into a hummus or salad for just a few shekels.
Hub of Artists
While prices are no longer the way they once were, Jaffa is a still favourite haunt of local artists. Situated in the north of the district is the so-called Artists’ Quarter, a compact area of old Arab houses and narrow alleyways which have been turned into artists’ studios and craft workshops. One of the best known venues is the Ilana Goor Museum, an 18th-century building owned by this Jewish artist. It boasts a vast collection of ethnic art, as well as works by such established figures as Henry Moore, Diego Giacometti and Joseph Albers. And, if you’re lucky, you might bump into Ilana herself as she walks her dog through the museum.
The other major venue in Jaffa is the Old Jaffa Museum of Antiquities. Housed in a lovely 18th-century building, it features exhibits unearthed during excavations in the area itself.
A Mix of Religions
A stone’s throw from the Ilana Goor Museum stands the so-called House of Simon the Tanner where, according to the New Testament “Acts of the Apostles”, St Peter stayed. Israel is a land where various religions coexist, so don’t be surprised to find mosques, synagogues and churches in the same street. Indeed, the Catholic St. Peter's Monastery stands in Kedumim Square, underneath which we find a visitors centre, housed on the site of excavations from the Roman period. Immediately behind it and overlooking the sea is the Monastery of St Nicholas, dating from 1667, the seat of the area’s Armenian community. The quarter also has synagogues and two important mosques, notably the Sea Mosque, where fishermen traditionally go to pray, and the Mahmoudiya, dating from 1812, which serves the local Muslim community.
Make a Wish
There are two things you should not fail to do before leaving Jaffa. First, stroll through the Gan Ha-Pisga, a park sited atop Old Jaffa hill, with spectacular views over the Tel Aviv coastline.
And, lastly, you should cross the Wishing Bridge and make a wish of your own. However, make sure you do so while touching your sign of the Zodiac on the bronze statue while gazing out over the sea. It’s certain to come true.
Take a Vueling to Tel Aviv and discover the oldest port in the world.
Text by Aleix Palau for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by Aleix Palau, amira_a
more info