Life Inside An Artwork
This small Italian town in the Sicilian province of Trapani was first settled by the Saracens in the Middle Ages. After the Second World War, on account of the post-war hardships, the area lost a substantial part of its population as many of its inhabitants emigrated to the New World. Subsequently, the town was totally devastated by an earthquake in 1968. The decision was then taken to start over from scratch, and an inventive project was drawn up to “humanise” the area, for which purpose several famous international artists were called in, names such as Pietro Consagra, Alberto Burri, Mario Schifano, Andrea Cascella, Arnaldo Pomodoro, Mimmo Paladino, Franco Angeli and Leonardo Sciascia. The town soon turned into a huge laboratory of experimental art, prompting artists to create works that ennobled the new urban precinct.
The Top 6 Monuments in Gibellina
It should be noted that the reconstruction of Gibellina arose as part of a major cultural challenge which involved both the need to built habitable dwellings and to do so in an artistic milieu. Today, Gibellina is one huge open-air, modern-architecture museum featuring some brilliant works; and, it is now inhabited once more. Here, then, are the six most stunning areas.
Il Cretto di Burri
Gibellina is a town born of a tragedy, and an earthquake at that, the remains of which are still visible beneath the vast work known as Il Cretto, by Alberto Burri. The artist was reluctant to set his work within the confines of yet another urban complex. Instead, he created a gigantic monument dedicated to the earthquake victims which stretches over the streets and alleyways of the old town. It is a massive concrete structure which hugs the ground and is scored by deep cracks. Its artistic value lies in having physically frozen the historical memory of the land. For its sheer size, Il Cretto is one of the largest artworks in the world.
The “Meeting”
In 1976 Pietro Consagra designed a monument-sculpture known as The Meeting. This large-scale sculpture features smooth curves emerging from two parallel projections. It is a clear example of Brutalist architecture, so in vogue in the seventies. In this case he combined transparent sections with opaque ones, while eschewing any balanced compositional harmony. It now stands between the bus station and the area taken up by bars and other leisure facilities.
The Chiesa Madre
in 1970 Ludovico Quaroni was commissioned to design Gibellina’s parish church on a hilltop. The geometry of the church is novel, not only owing to the layout of the building and its relationship to its surroundings but on account of the language in its architectural forms. The various functional areas are distributed in a box with a 50-metre-square base sub-divided into modules and sub-modules, while the symbolical and geometrical centre of the monument is a great smooth cement sphere bearing reference to the sacred.
The Piazza del Municipio and the Civic Tower
The town square is surrounded by a colonnade designed by Vittorio Gregotti and Giuseppe Samonà, the walls of which were decorated with ceramics by Carla Accardi. Edging the perimeter of the square stand some marvellous white metal sculptures of characters from the work, Oedipus Rex, made by Pietro Consagra, with others by Mimmo Rotella, and the so-called Civic Tower designed by Alessandro Mendini. Four times a day, a blend of sounds with reminiscences of everyday life in the old Gibellina can be heard from this tower.
The Square System
This is actually a matrix of closed architectural squares designed by Franco Purini and Laura Thermes. Enclosed within this System are the Piazza Rivolta del 26 giugno 1937, Piazza Fasci dei Lavoratori, Piazza Monti di Gibellina, Piazza Autonomia Siciliana and Piazza Passo Portella delle Ginestre.
The Civic Museum of Contemporary Art
Gibellina’s contemporary art collection was created from contributions by Italy’s leading artists, and others of international acclaim.
The first to chip in were the Sicilians – Pietro Consagra, Carla Accardi and Emilio Isgrò. Ever since its inauguration in 1980, the Gibellina Museum has been endowed with over 1,800 artworks, notably original paintings, illustrations and sculptures. Most are housed inside the building, but some are dotted about the town streets, where they form a complement to the urban architecture. The bulk of the museum’s exhibition space is taken up by the collection, but there is a room dedicated to Mario Schifano, while another open-air area is given over to artistic and architectural mock-ups.
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Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
Images by Tiberio Frascari, Giulio Nepi, Antonella Profeta
more infoA foodie's paradise
Authentic flavors and recipes using products that are grown and produced in the region, such as wheat, juicy tomatoes or olive oil, make Bari and the Puglia region a paradise for foodies.
The southern Italy is known by its Mediterranean weather and flat fertile fields which means excellent conditions to grow vegetables. The agricultural products are very tasty and have an intense flavor, which makes Puglia particularly attractive for demanding vegetarians.
Olive oil is one of its greatest tricks. It is exported to Europe in a big amount after the extraction from more than 60 million olive trees. This happens with the vineyards in the same way , resulting in excellent wines as Primitivo, Salcie Nero di Troia or Salentino.
Antipasti (typical starter of the Italian cuisine) is the best way to begin a good meal. They can range from simple olives to the best-prepared dishes (mainly vegetarian) such as aubergine, courgette and peppers fried or stuffed. Generally, a few of these starters would be enough to fill any demanding stomach , so be moderate when ordering food.
Pasta in Puglia is homemade and without using eggs, only wheat semolina and water. Pasta production includes, most notably, the famous orecchiette (ear-shaped pasta), cavatelli, Fricelli or original ncannulate sagne-a twisted wide noodles. You will find them in each restaurant and you’ll have the chance of watching how it is prepared in the streets of Bari.
To wipe clean the delicious sauces from the dish , nothing better than a tasty bread that local bakers made with great skill. Altamura bread (protected certificate of origin) is made with semolina wheat and seasoned with olive oil and tomatoes or other vegetables. Homemade dough is also used for baked calzoni stuffed with onions, anchovies, capers and olives; fried panzerotti with mozzarella, simple focaccia alla baresa with tomatoes, little savoury taralli, friselle and fried slices of polenta all make up the Bari culinary reportoire.
Although Bari is near the ocean, it isn’t exactly a fishing village. The seafood dishes come from Ogliastra, Sardinia. Some of Bari's most famous fish dishes are ciambotta-sautéed seafood with vegetables, and mussels of Taranto, which are usually grown in protected waters.
Bari’s varied and excellent cheeses worth a special mention. Mild or mature pecorino, the burrata Andria cacioricotta, ricotta or cagittu, all of them are prepared in a traditional way. The burrata is the most common, it is usually served with some bread or a little olive oil which makes a simple tasty antipasto.
Desserts like pabassinas, panisceddas, amerettus or gattou are prepared with some of these cheeses and/or nuts and honey.
La Cecchina
ristorantelacecchina.com
Piazza Mercantile, 31
Great quality at the heart of Bari’s old town, in the historic Piazza Marcantile. Here you can taste the different specialities from Puglia región.
Pizzeria Enzo e Ciro
Via Matteo Renato Imbriani, 79
One of the most famous pizza place in Bari, it is usually full. Savory pizzas (thin dough) and antipasti such as prociutto de San Daniele or wild mushrooms.
Braceria Signorile
Via Giulio Petroni 12
Perfect for the meat eaters. You can choose your preferred meat from the butcher counter next door and eat in the restaurant seasoned to your taste. Good option is also being advised by the owner about the specialty of the day.
Fiore Antonio
Strada Palazzo Di Citta, 38
In the alleys of the old town you can taste ,what probably is ,the best focaccia in town.
Osterie le Arpie
Founded in 1870, le Arpie is one of the oldest Osterias in the city, which preserves the way to make and the traditional flavors. Try the mussels or braciola di cavallo.
Vini e Cucina
Strada Vallisa 23
Genuine and informal restaurant to eat specialties from the region of Puglia, such as mussels, octopus, antipasto or an acceptable restaurant menu at great rates.
Ristorante Bacco
Corso Vittorio Emanuele II 126
www.ristorantebacco.it
Local produce and fresh seafood Premium!
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more info5 deliciosos 5 delicious moments in Asturiasen Asturias
Copious meals at Picos de Europa
It’s not a secret that Picos de Europa is a great place to eat. Only in the area of Cabrales, over 40 types of cheese are prepared, being the region in Europe with a greater variety.
It was clear that, before we feast on great food, we needed to make some kind of effort, first. The most common route to follow in the area is at Cares, uphill at the beginning but nice and relaxed the rest of the way. Is almost like a baptism to trekking, much frequented on the weekends.
We opt to follow the route from Poncebos to Bulnes, an uphill and amusing where we meet mountain goats several times. Bulnes is a small village, the only place in Asturias that is not accessible by car. There are many houses here but most of them are bars, inns and restaurants where you can eat very well. We tried delicious fabes and other specialties from the province, like a pot of octopus and potatoes, the small chorizos with cider and the scorpion fish cake.
Trying the best fabada in the world (and a great cachopo)
By chance, right next to the hotel where we were staying in Villaviciosa there is Bedriñana cider bar, which was awarded in 2014 for the ‘best fabada in the world’. That is something very remarkable in Asturias!
The fabada, obviously, was delicious and, to top it off, as a second course we ordered a cachopo to share. Cachopo (or cachopu) is a very typical dish from Asturian cuisine, only suitable to resistant stomachs. It is made of two veal filets that can be filled with cheese, ham or other ingredients. Furthermore, wine plus a side dish of potatoes, pepper and mushrooms. The two of us couldn’t even finish the half of the dish.
Then is when we realised that you have to be very careful when you order a dish. If an Asturian waiter tells you that you’re not ordering enough, be prepared. A big feeding feast is awaiting you.
For the great seafood, go to Tazones
Close to Villaviciosa, Tazones has the essence of a fishermen town, with pretty cobblestone streets and low-lying houses with colourful balconies, and is the place to go to eat great seafood and fish. The choices and quality are immense, any of the restaurants in town is provided by local fisheries.
Delicious cocktails in Gijón
We took advantage of a quick visit to Gijón to try some cocktails at one of the most frequented places in town. Its name is Varsovia and can be located by San Lorenzo avenue, exactly at Cabrales, 18, in an iconic historical building with an interior of eclectic decoration and a great variety of furniture, from Chester sofas to old wooden furniture. The large windows provide the best views over Gijón beach.
The menu includes a great variety of cocktails, provided in an unbeatable atmosphere and with a great music selection to enjoy.
The cider: customs & practices
A different matter is cider, the Asturian drink by excellence, and how it must be served. Cider in Asturias usually costs no more than 3€ each bottle, with a dark green colour and usually purchased to be shared. It has low alcohol content so you can order many and still remain not too much drunk.
The technique to pour cider usually leads to funny moments, especially among beginners who waste more cider than what is served. It is necessary to pour the cider right in the border of the glass, to enhance the flavour and smell when it mixes with the oxygen from the glass. When the cider is served you should ask ¿quién bebe? (“who drinks?”) and the glass must be empty in one sip or two, not more. It can be considered impolite to keep the cider for too long in the glass, because it loses the properties.
If you are not good at pouring cider, you better ask the waiter to serve you a “culín” or “culete”. If you dare to pour it yourself, you should know that the stream should be as high as possible and break right at the border of the glass. You don’t want to shower the rest of the diners.
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more infoTransylvania – More Than Just Dracula
Whenever Transylvania is mentioned, the name Dracula springs to mind. Whether for better or for worse, that’s the way it is. Bram Stoker couldn’t have suspected what he was about to unleash when he wrote Dracula, a novel that would go down in history, inspired by the figure of Vlad Tepes. Neither would he have imagined he was going to turn Transylvania – where part of the story unfolds – into a tourist destination for vampire enthusiasts, particularly since his writing was based on literary sources, as he never actually visited the region.
However, when considering a trip to Transylvania, we need to lift the Gothic veil from our eyes and look further afield. Granted, reminders of Vlad Tepes are present, but there are also magnificent landscapes awaiting us, as well as medieval towns with priceless coloured houses, friendly people and the odd medieval castle, which would only conjure up horror stories with a concerted flight of the imagination.
Brasov
Transylvania is famed for having the best preserved medieval towns in Europe, so make sure you visit the historic town of Brasov, packed with charming spots. A major landmark is the Old Town Square (Piata Sfatului), where you can visit the History Museum, housed in the old Town Hall. Another must-see is the Biserica Neagră or Black Church, so called on account of the blackened walls caused by a fire there in 1689. This huge Gothic church, one of the largest in south-eastern Europe, houses an important collection of Turkish rugs hanging from its galleries.
The Fortified Church of Prejmer
This original monument, listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, lies some 18 km from Brasov in Prejmer, a place marked by protracted wars during the Middle Ages, owing to its proximity to the border. The fortified church, dating from the 13th century, attests to the turmoil of those times. It has 4-metre-thick walls rising 12 metres, rendering it impregnable to the 50 times it was besieged. The precinct provided shelter for the townsfolk during military assaults, with rooms to lodge in and defensive towers which also acted as storage areas for provisions.
Bran Castle
In the mountains of Bucegi and Piatra Craiului, some 30 km from Brasov, stands one of the most visited landmarks in Transylvania. This castle is usually associated with the figure of Vlad Tepes, and it was mistakenly said to be his place of residence. We owe this confusion to Bram Stoker, who turned it into Dracula’s residence in his novel. That is why it is popularly thought to be Dracula’s castle. Aside from the world of vampires, this castle, built by the Saxons in 1382, is well worth the visit, with much of its splendour remaining intact.
Poenari Castle
Those who wish to see the true place of residence of Vlad the Impaler should visit this castle. It was built in the early-13th century and abandoned in the mid-17th. Unlike the previous castle, this one lies partly in ruins and access is rather more difficult, as you have walk up no less than 1,500 stairs! However, once at the top, the spectacular view of the Carpathian Mountains more than makes up for the effort.
Sighisoara
Situated in the centre of Romania, in the Transylvanian Carpathians, this is a popular tourist resort, and not only for being the birthplace of Vlad Tepes. Sighisoara has a well preserved, fortified medieval citadel, which has deservedly earned its designation as a World Heritage site. Fourteen of the original fortified towers are still standing. You should also visit the Clocktower, and go up to the top to see the view over the town. And, needless to say, those in search of the gruesome past can visit what is believed to be the house where Vlad the Impaler was born.
Sibiu
Founded by Saxon settlers in the 12th century, it is one of Transylvania’s major economic and cultural hubs. Sited on the banks of the river Cibin, it has an Old Town redolent with cobbled streets, medieval houses, large squares, cafés and remains of the original fortified wall. Sibiu is divided into the Upper Town and Lower Town, the latter featuring the most interesting landmarks. Make sure you visit the Piaţa Mare or Great Square, housing one of Romania’s paramount Baroque monuments, the Brukenthal Palace. Other sights include the Piaţa Mică or Small Square, and the Huet Square, surrounded by mainly Gothic buildings, most notably the Lutheran Evangelical Cathedral.
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Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
Images by Dennis Jarvis, Camil Ghircoias, Alexandru Panoiu, Daniel Tellman
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