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5 Gastro Essentials in San Sebastián

You would be hard put not to fall in love with San Sebastián and its people, its streets, its beaches. And, if you happen to be a foodie, there’s no way you could resist its charms. Their meticulous sourcing of local produce is tangible, they handle meat and fish like nobody else and they boast an irresistible culture of pintxos.

Being a city with good food and an amazing culinary array ingrained in its DNA, it’s always useful to have a list of favourites handy when embarking on an escape to the capital of Guipúzcoa. Here, then, is our top five:

The Best Pintxos… at Zazpi
That’s what we say, from experience, backed up by them twice having won the Guipúzcoa pintxos champions award. In the kitchen, young chef Paul Arrillaga shows his craftsmanship over the fires. Spirited and with a clear idea of what he wants, he turns out creative offerings without masking the quality product. Zazpi has the advantage of not being located in the much-trumpeted “Parte Vieja” (Old Town), while their tables and bar counter are filled each day with bites that will leave a smile on your face. Their latest award-winning pintxo is asparagus with egg yolk and asparagus heart. Other dishes that come highly recommended are the txipis (squid-ink calamari), vichyssoise with foie gras and caviar, stewed pig’s ear and glazed cheek of pork.

The Best Txuleta… at Casa Urola
A historic restaurant in San Sebastián’s Parte Vieja which never fails to please. Revamped traditional cuisine and top-notch product crafted by chef Pablo Loureiro Rodil, who pampers the seasonal fare and runs a grillroom which is unique in the city. Their awesome txuleta (pork chops) are rivalled by such great dishes as sauteed country beans, potato froth, codfish flakes and olive oil, tempered oyster in Iberian cheek of pork, cream of cauliflower, prawn soup and lemon zest oil, and hake fillet with cheek of hake and clams.

The Best Omelette… at Nestor
One at 1 p.m. and another at 8 p.m. – two omelettes a day for the lucky ones who sign on to Nestor’s “delivery list” (not reservation list), which opens an hour in advance. It is well worth the treasure hunt to be able to sink your teeth into an omelette like nothing you might have tried before. They have just enough onion, pepper and potato to allow the egg to jiggle and fall juicily onto the plate.

The Best Cheesecake… at La Viña
A classic – La Viña’s cheesecake, the “sweet pintxo” to mark the final flourish of a pintxo-hopping morning. We’ve tried it and can safely say it lives up to its reputation. Golden-brown on the outside, smooth and creamy on the inside; you really must taste it if you regard yourself as a genuine cheesecake lover. And, speaking of cheesecakes, be lenient on yourself and head some 10 kilometres out of San Sebastián to one of the leading restaurants in the area, Zuberoa, in Oiartzun – their cheesecake is simply divine!

The Best Cocktails… A Dry María Cristina
We wind up our tour of surefire San Sebastián offerings with the best drink in town. Bearing the seal of Javier de las Muelas and served up in an amazing setting, the cocktails at Dry are a true experience. Martinis, classic-style mixes and avant-garde creations await you in their legendary María Cristina. The perfect excuse to set foot in this historic hotel and swoon in the unique atmosphere.

Book your Vueling to San Sebastián and gear up to explore the gastro side of Guipúzcoa’s capital.

Text by Silvia Artaza of Gastronomistas.com

Photos by Silvia Artaza and establishments

 

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Yummy ice cream from Catania!

One of the experiences you can not miss if you visit Catania is to enjoy an authentic 'gelato' while you stroll through its streets and its monuments. Although the ice cream in Italy is an institution, the Sicilians are the most famous and it is one of the pillars of their food culture.

Its making has its own characteristics, with traditional recipes that have been passed from generation to generation, to obtain a softertextureand extraordinaryice cream flavors. Its traditional character is one of its greatest assetsand traditionalice creamandice-cream makers still use the same methods they have always used.

You'll notice thatthe ice creamis served inthe classic scoop, not with the device for forming balls to which we have become used. Try the Ernesto ones, in Via Ruggero di Lauria91-93,at the Pasticceria Quaranta, in Piazza Mancini Battaglia, or Pasticceria Gelateria Santo Musumeci on the Piazza SantaMaria, 9-10.

Artisanal granita

The ice cream is integrated in one of the most typical products of Catania, the 'broscia' or brioche. It is filled with countlessice cream flavors like pistachio, chocolate, caramel, lemon, strawberries, walnuts, hazelnuts, blackberry, tangerine or almonds.

Although granita is a typical Sicilian ice cream, it has little to do with the traditional Italian ice creams; it is similar toa slush but more creamy and refreshing, and is made with natural fruit. Idea lto start the day, especially in summer, being the typical Catanese breakfast.

The different flavors come from the rich products elaborated from the volcanic soil of Etna, mineral products that produce excellent lemons and oranges, tangerines, almonds, strawberries, cherries, hazelnuts and chestnuts. From these ingredients the maximum quality is respected without add in gscentsor preservatives.

But how do you recognizethe perfect granita? One ofthe featuresto look outis that their colorsare soft, which indicates that carries no dyes.For example, almond should be all white, and pistachio, will be more an off greenish, not garish green.

You also have to keep in mind that good granita should be consumed within a few hoursafter its preparation. Whenyou try it, make sure that the icehas not crystallizedor form spuddles.

You'll find the best ones in many places around Etnea street, but the ones from the Pasticceria Savia clearly stand out, one of the most prestigious pastry of Catania, located in Via Etnea 300. Or in the new Prestipino restaurant, located in Via Etnea 30-32, in the beautiful setting between Piazza Duomo and Piazza University.

Also in Etoile D'or from Via Beato Cardinale Giuseppe Benedetto Dusmet, 7, the Chocolate Cafe in Viale Ruggero di Lauria, 129, where you can taste their successful versions made of almonds and pistachios in the seafront. As in Café de Paris, in Viale Ruggero di Lauria, 25, one of the favorite places of the inhabitants of Catania.

One of the most centric and busy is the historical Cafe Europa in Italia, 302. A meeting place to try the essentials of Catanese cuisine. Here, in particular the most requested is their strawberry version.

So you feel like visiting Catania, do you? Book your flights here!

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Gràcia A District With a Special Flavour

No district of Barcelona has the flavour and personality of Gràcia. The area brings together artists, long-standing neighbours, design and fashion stores and some of the city’s liveliest restaurants and bars. A perennial mix of traditional values and the latest trends, Gràcia is always up with the pulse of the times, yet retains the essence that makes it the favourite haunts of many Barceloners.

As we love strolling leisurely through the area and taking in the atmosphere, we hit the streets to unearth the seven must-visit venues – shops, bars and restaurants – for tapping into the true heartbeat of Gràcia.

Magnesia

Leticia, the owner of Magnesia, draws on the work of local and international artists, showcased in what is one of the best graphic stores in town. The prints rub shoulders with ceramics from the United States, cushions by Shara Porter and jewellery by craftsmen and women from Barcelona. You will be enamoured of this venue and are bound to emerge with something under your arm.

Can Tresó

Located on one of Gràcia’s major thoroughfares, the Can Tresó restaurant can go by unnoticed from the outside. But, once you’ve dined there, you will never forget its presence. The tapas are great – the patatas bravas outstanding – and the signature menu of the day on weekdays is really delicious.

La Mueblerí

This vintage-look store is run by a mother and son. With their finely tuned selection of furniture and other objects, it’s easy to fall for a Scandinavian sideboard, a Vitra table from the 70s or a Manises lamp. What’s more, you can find both designer pieces and other reasonably priced wares to suit all budgets. The premises are spacious and well decorated. Here you breathe closeness, delicateness and good taste, which makes it quite special.

Viblioteca

This is a classic among lovers of cheese, sausage, tartare and good food. Done out in white lines, this restaurant is undoubtedly one of the finest in Barcelona when it comes to discovering new wines and pairing them with a first-class culinary selection. We recommend you talk to Yolanda, the owner, and let her suggest what to order.

Alzira

Mónica is one of the veterans of vintage in the Gràcia district. Her exquisite sense of taste manifests in a combination of industrial and rustic furniture with some designer pieces, all imbued with a Bochic aesthetic, making this a must-visit store for antique hunters in Barcelona. The bright, airy premises include a patio where one could relax for hours, if one had the time. The furniture and decoration section is rounded off by a frankly irresistible area featuring retro brooches.

Bobby Gin

Going out for a drink in Gràcia at night would never be the same without Bobby Gin. This sophisticated bar serves some of the best gin tonics in Barcelona. Care has been lavished on their decor, down to the last detail, with restored antique doors, and vintage and industrial furniture. But, what makes this venue unique is the large selection of premium gins and tonics. If you are hard put to make a choice, the staff – who really know their stuff – will help you decide. And, if you’d like something to nibble on, themini-coques de Llavaneras pastries are a delicacy you should make a point of tasting.

Casa Atlántica

Hand-painted ceramic crockery, wooden miniatures and retro lamps are some of the items you can find in Casa Atlántica. A store-workshop full of charm opened by the fashion designer, Belén Martínez, and the Portuguese interior designer, Lester Barreto. The interior is unmistakeably Atlantic in appearance and is redolent with priceless details and furniture designed by the owners themselves, transporting you from the Mediterranean to the other side of the Peninsula.

Book your Vueling to Barcelona and venture into Gràcia, to be seduced by its charm.

Text by Aleix Palau for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

 

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A Day On Lobos Island

This secluded spot in the middle of the Atlantic, which owes its name to a colony of monk seals (“sea wolves”) that once dwelt here, is synonymous with the triumph of nature. Lobos Island is a small volcanic islet located 2 kilometres off northern Fuerteventura, opposite the coast of Africa. It is part of the protected Corralejo Dunes Nature Reserve, covering just 5 square kilometres and with a 14-kilometre-long coastline, uninhabited by man and teeming with plant life which is unique to this spot – some 130 species of indigenous flora have been recorded. It is also a refuge for free-roaming migratory birds and a destination for explorers who trek along its arid footpaths, dive in the crystal-clear waters or simply plonk themselves down on the white sands of the island’s beaches.

Lobos Island can be reached by ferries which sail from the port of Corralejo. You have several options – mini-cruises, express ferries, etc. – so the best thing is to roll up and check out all the available facilities. El Majorero plies the official route, sailing at 10 a.m. and returning at 6 p.m. Be warned that their timetable changes in the winter months. To spend a pleasant day on Lobos Island, you are advised to take along sun cream, a cap, comfortable footwear, binoculars, food and water and, above all, to observe the signposts. As it is a Protected Nature Reserve, it is important to follow the indications.

I’m of the opinion that the best way to discover a place is by hiking around it, so I recommend taking the circular route, which stretches for eight kilometres. Your goal is the Martiño Lighthouse, dating from 1865. There is only one restaurant on Lobos Island so that, if you want to eat there, you have to book as soon as you reach the island. I assure you that, after a four-hour hike under the sun, the taste of fried fish or paella – the only two dishes they serve – is out of this world.

The route starts at the jetty and you take the footpath in the direction of El Puertito, an erstwhile fisherman’s cottage with a few masonry shelters. Here you will find the beach hut known as the Chiringuito Antoñito el Farero, named after the last inhabitant of the island. You then proceed along the coastal fork towards Las Lagunitas, a protected area of considerable natural value with its agaves and migratory birds, until you come to the Faro Martiño lighthouse, which affords stunning, 360° panoramic views. You will come across a memorial plaque of the writer, Josefina Pla, who was born on the island. After reaching the end of the trail, you make the return journey along the inland route. If you still have the energy to walk a bit further, there is a path forking off on the right that goes up to the old, 127-metre-high La Caldera volcano. Bear in mind that the approach route is short and steep, but the climb is highly rewarding as the summit provides spectacular views of Fuerteventura and Lanzarote.

On your return, stop at the wonderful La Concha beach, with its fine white sand and crystal-clear, calm waters, on account of the reefs that check the fury of the sea. Ideal for having a dip and sunbathing. But, beware – the sun can be torrid and there is no shade on the beach. If you decide to spend the day at the seaside, best take a sunshade along. The same footpath leads to the jetty – where you got off the boat a few hours ago and which is also the site of the Centro de Interpretación. From there, it takes you to the beach bar with its dining room literally on the beach – a picture postcard setting to mark the end of your day in paradise!

Book your Vueling to Fuerteventura and be sure to head for Lobos Island.

Text and images by Teresa Vallbona

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