Despite its location on the shores of the icy North Sea, Hamburg is an ebullient city – and Germany’s second largest – while St. Pauli is its hottest quarter. It is articulated around a main avenue, the Reeperbahn, a risque, bacchanalian precinct, site of the red light district and a trove of highly recommendable temptations. From the iconic Schmidt Tivoli theatre to the Millerntor-Stadion, home to the endearing FC St. Pauli, we lift the veil on all the allurements of Sankt Pauli.

Angie’s Nightclub
Located on the upper floor of the Schmidt Tivoli is Angie’s Nightclub, one of the most popular clubs of Sankt Pauli’s night scene. Founded by the soul singer Angie Stardust in the 90s, the resident band features a different guest vocalist every night, often a leading figure in Germany’s music scene or on the international arena. Next you may proceed to Mojo Club, a live music venue tucked away amid the underground of Sankt Pauli’s iconic Dancing Towers, or to either the Klubhaus or Golem, two multi-space locales with an invariably interesting entertainment schedule crammed with concerts, movies and theatre plays. To round off your evening, you could head for the Golden Pudel Club (currently undergoing repair work after being ravaged by fire). Set on the banks of the Elbe, not far from the Fischmarkt, on the outside it looks like some unassuming fairy-tale house but it is actually the temple of electronic music where the dancing goes on until dawn.

Davidwache
At the intersection of the Spielbudenplatz and Davidstraße, hard by the Reeperbahn, stands Davidwache, probably the best known police station in Europe, with its own fan club! And, for its location, one of the busiest in Europe, too. Dating from 1840, the building has appeared in countless films and television series, while its cells have seen both small-time crooks and celebrities of the calibre of Paul McCartney and Pete Best held in custody.

Landungsbrücken
The Landungsbrücken, also known as theSt. Pauli Piers, is Hamburg’s old harbour terminal, situated on the banks of the river Elbe. It was once northern Europe’s port of departure to the New World and some five million people are estimated to have set sail from here, bound for a new life in America. Not far from here stands the Fischmarkt or fish market. In winter, it opens at 7 a.m. and in summer at 5 a.m. and immediately fills up with locals, tourists and hawkers as the fish auction gets under way. The brunch served on Sundays at various restaurants in the Fischmarkt is simply wonderful.

Millerntor-Stadion
The modest yet great FC St. Pauli is a reflection of the neighbourhood spirit and a last refuge of grass-roots football. Their principles advocate against xenophobia, fascism and sexism and the team is a favourite among both Germans and all over the world. They come out onto the pitch brandishing the Jolly Roger as their banner, with Hells Bells by AC/DC played over the PA system, while Song 2 by Blur sounds out whenever the side scores. Watching a match at the Millerntor-Stadion is truly an experience that goes beyond that of just a sporting event.

Reeperbahn
This is the main thoroughfare running through Sankt Pauli and one of the most ribald avenues in the world. Like Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde, it has two faces. By day, crowds jostle about doing their shopping or going out for a coffee. By night, the neon signs of the discos, night clubs, cabarets and sex shops light up. Mid-way between Barcelona’s Las Ramblas of the 1980s and Las Vegas, whatever transpires in Reeperbahn stays put within the neighbourhood. Local curiosities include the Beatles Platz, a square commemorating the passage of The Beatles through the city in their early years, when they performed at such venues as Star-Club, Kaiserkeller, Top Ten and Indra. Then there is The Reeperbahn Festival, which has been held each year at the end of September since 2006. Its programme features hundreds of concerts and the festival is a beacon for the music industry on an international level.

Schmidt Tivoli
With its old-world, slight seedy charm, the Schmidt Tivoli is the variety theatre par excellence in Hamburg’s red light district. Be sure to get tickets to the midnight show, when the ambience is more risque than during the afternoon or evening sessions. If you can’t get hold of a ticket, there are many other theatres and cabarets in Sankt Pauli to choose from, including the Operettenhaus, which specialises in musicals, the more conventional St. Pauli Theater, which has been operating since 1841, and the Imperial Theater.

Superbude Hotel Hostel
With its colourful designer rooms done out in fully recycled furniture, the Superbude is Hamburg’s hipster hotel for those who like to stay the night and be able to boast about being a trendy. A more conventional option is the EAST, housed in a former factory. Its stands out for its aesthetic, combining strains of the Far East with a Western industrial look. Be sure to have a meal in their restaurant, one of the best in St. Pauli.

Book your Vueling to Hamburg and revel in a district with possibly the liveliest night life in Europe.

Text by Oriol Rodríguez

Images by Heiko S, Wojtek Szkutnik, Itti, Reading Tom, David Coggins, abbilder 

Walpurgis Night – the night of witches or, in German, Walpurgisnacht– is held at the transit from 30 April to 1 May in much of central and northern Europe. May 1 is the feast of St Walpurga, the patron saint of countrywomen and servants, and patroness of conjurers. Legend has it that this is the last time witches can celebrate their heathen festivals after the darkness of winter, and they have the whole night to do so.

One of the most popular sites for this ritual is Brocken, the highest summit in the Harz Mountains (some 50 km from Leipzig, Germany). This peak is often shrouded in dense fog, endowing it with an air of mystery. It even gives rise to an unusual effect known as the Brocken Spectre – an optical illusion that can appear in any fog-clad mountains, by which an enlarged shadow of the observer, surrounded by an iridescent halo, is reflected onto the clouds. The effect is actually created by the diffraction of cloud droplets. This also helped to magnify the legend of the witches in the place mentioned by the German writer, Goethe, at the beginning of his best-known work, Faust, when he describes the scene of the witches’ night celebration on the slopes of the Harz mountains. On Walpurgisnacht, participants assemble at Brocken around a large bonfire and spend the night singing and dancing. The festive ritual is purported to drive off evil spirits. Witches’ night is celebrated at all villages in the Harz Mountains, where the inhabitants dress up as witches and demons, while street markets, fireworks, parades and concerts are organised. Check out the programme listing all the Walpurgis Night activities in Harz.

The Harz Mountains – Following in the Witches’ Footsteps

Accounts from the Harz are not limited to witches. This mountain range in Lower Saxony is an impressive nature reserve featuring some of the really beautiful spots. The mountain trails wind their way between steep cliffs and valleys, ash forests, and networks of villages, palaces and castles dating from the time of the Saxon Dynasty. It is northern Germany’s resort of choice for cross-country skiing and hiking, traversing the natural habitats of the red brocket, deer, lynx and wild boar, as well as the white-throated dipper, black stork and peregrine falcon.

The Harz is criss-crossed by a network of over 8,000 kilometres of well-signposted nature trails, making it a paradise for hikers. While the Harz National Park itself is practically uninhabited, you will come across a few hamlets and restaurants offering genuine, typical German cuisine – the stellar dish of the region is roast potatoes with spices. One of the trekking routes, known as Harzer Hexenstieg (Witches’ Route), is a trail running some 100 kilometres from Osterode, through Brocken, as far as Thale. Halfway along the trail, at a place called Torfhaus, the witches’ trail forks along a stretch known as “Goethe”. Indeed, the poet and playwright walked this same route some 200 years ago.

Fairytale Villages in the Harz Region

The Harz Mountains are also dotted with some charming 16th-century villages, rich in history and legend. Of these, we have highlighted the following:

Goslar. At the foot of the Harz range lies this picturesque medieval town, known as the “Rome of the North”. It was the residence of German kings and emperors until 1253. The historic town and the old Rammelsberg mines, situated on the edge of the town, are listed as World Heritage sites. Also listed by UNESCO is the nearby Upper Harz Water Regale (Oberharzer Wasserregal), one of the world’s largest and most important pre-Industrial Revolution energy-management systems. Its 107 dams and reservoirs and over 300 kilometres of water channels provide a stunning backdrop for the Harz mountain hiking trails.

Wernigerode. This, the nearest town to Brocken is noteworthy for its striking hilltop castle and its medieval houses elaborately adorned with wood carvings.

Thale. Situated in the picturesque Bode Gorge, overlooked by the Hexentanzplatz, a lofty hilltop which can be reached by cable car. Hexentanzplatz, meaning “witches’ dance-floor”, was once a place of worship in Saxon times, sacred to the forest and mountain goddesses. Here you will find various landmarks associated with witches’ legends, in addition to the Walpurgishalle Museum.

Quedlinburg. Just 10 kilometres from Thale lies Quedlinburg, the first capital of Germany and an important town during the Middle Ages. It currently holds the largest concentration of half-timbered buildings in the country. An interesting fact is that this town was ruled by women for 800 years.

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Text by Scanner FM

Images by Olli Henze | Σ64 | Mundus Gregorius | GerturdK | Mathias Liebing |  JuTe CLZ | Marco Hamersma

By Tensi Sánchez from actitudesmgz.com

Milan has been the economic, industrial and financial capital of Italy since the 1970s. Nonetheless, all the attention on this city is garnered by its expensive fashion boutiques and the majestic cathedral, one of the most perfect and famous religious to be found anywhere in the world.

Walking around the edge of the old historic centre evokes feelings of the industrial city that Milan still is today, but the more central streets of the inner city exude history through their old buildings and it is easy to understand why this used to be a major capital of the Roman Empire.

I have discovered many interesting shops, restaurants and galleries in the historic centre that offer a great alternative to the typical tourist trails through the city and a great way to fill a morning. Travelling on the metro or the tram is the best option and, what’s more, the tram network still uses a few carriages that date back to the 1920s. Taking a ride around the city on one of those old trams is an irresistible treat.

It has become hugely fashionable of late to partake of the so-called brunch, that undefined area somewhere between breakfast and lunch. At Zerodue, they offer brunch every Sunday but you should get there before midday because the place fills up so quickly. They have a varied buffet and the decoration is to die for. Radetzky Café can be found in Garibaldi street and is also very famous for its brunches, as well as for the “cotolettas alla milanese” (Milanese cutlets).

The best hamburger in the city is served at Mamaburger, where the décor is totally minimal and rather unusual to say the least. Still on the subject of hamburgers, 202 Hamburger & Delicious and Tizzy’s are also highly recommendable.

Milan is also a bustling hive of activity insofar as art is concerned. The city is simply bursting with contemporary art galleries.
The Galería de Carla Sotaní has ties to the famous and very pricey fashion boutique 10corsocomo. Before venturing into the gallery, visitors have the chance to explore the Box and Design Shop that can be found on the same floor.

Finally, we have the Galería Anfiteatro Arte and Spazio Rosanna Orlanni. A visit to the latter would not be complete without looking in on its designer furniture and accessories store.

If you are a lover of design, this is the perfect city for you. The five-storey Hightech building will keep you entertained for hours, and also has a restaurant and cafeteria for recharging your batteries. Here you will find all sorts of never-before-seen curiosities presented in a pleasant and welcoming atmosphere. The place describes itself as “a sea port in the city”.

At 89 Porta di Ticinese you will come acrossOltolini; a shop dedicated to all things designer kitchen at more than reasonable prices.

Finally, I was thrilled to discover Aspesi 1910; a shop selling 100% ‘Made in Italy’ glasses that has been operating in the city for more than 100 years. You will find a host of unimaginable designs and colours well within reach.

Fashion in Milan simply cannot be ignored. The Porta di Ticinese district and neighbouring streets are full of small boutiques waiting to be discovered. Here are a few that surprised me because they try to step away from the conventional:

Maison I Yamakabe – Italian jewellery with personality and originality; Panca’s Designer – different footwear;

Dictionary Milano – men’s and women’s fashion with such brands as Scotch & Soda, Camo; Frip – a very cool shop where you can find such brands as Acne and their Little brand Frippino for the small, budding musketeers in the house; unique records and accessories at Serendeepity; and finally, two shops dedicated to the world of vintage clothes and complements, Groupies and Lo Especchio di Alice.

One of my favourite hotels in Milan is the Crowne Plaza, with its impeccable interior design and magnificent outdoor terrace. However, its best feature for me is that the entrance to the metro is inside the hotel itself, thus making it a rather unique hotel.

Before going to a party in Milan, one usually enjoys an aperitif at about 7 in the evening. It is an inexpensive and entertaining way to start the night. A typical aperitif consists of a good “Negroni” accompanied by some modest snacks. Nowadays, the aperitif scene has become a veritable institution of the city’s night life and is the reason why most bars offer a variety of tasty dishes to eat in the evening, including pasta, risotto, salads and some more exotic food dotted around. The aperitif has thus become a valid alternative to dinner at just the price of a cocktail (between 5 and 10 euros) in a great atmosphere with good music.

Do you feel like going to Milan? Well, wait no longer and book your flight with Vueling!

PS: The recipe for a Negroni
INGREDIENTS: 1/3 gin; 1/3 Campari (bitter); 1/3 red Vermouth
Pour all the ingredients straight into a single glass with only a couple of ice cubes (max.). Never use crushed ice because the Negroni should never be watered down. Mix well and serve in a cold cocktail glass. Some people add a few drops of lemon to enhance the flavour, especially the gin. However, the original formula would be served with a slice of orange on the rim of the glass.
A “Negroni” is a great aperitif for stimulating your appetite. It was invented in the early 1900s and its name comes from Camillo Negroni, who always used to order the same cocktail in Florence. Cheers!

By Tensi Sánchez from actitudesmgz.com

Photography: Rubén Seco

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Palermo strikes a curious balance between large shopping precincts and narrow streets exuding romantic decadence, between makeshift street grill-stalls throbbing with electronic music and leisurely faddish restaurants. The city is, at times, caught up in another era, but also in the present, while aspiring to a better future.

A city of contrasts, influences and cultural convergence, Palermo has a lot to say in gastronomic terms. Both pasta and pizza are a mainstay of local cuisine, as they are in the rest of Italy, although here they have been revamped, displaying surprising traits, and combined with other local dishes that draw heavily on the sea or trip and offal. And, it is immediately evident the moment you walk into any of its markets, a must-see attraction if you happen to journey here.

Vucciria, Il Capo and Ballaró

Palermo’s three markets. They open every day except Sunday, from early in the morning until nightfall. As the stall produce becomes depleted, they clear up and bolt the small garages that act as storerooms. The markets are best visited in the morning, if you want to enjoy them in full swing. There’ll be vegetables you have likely never seen before, as well as spices, cheeses, a wealth of different olives, peppers, huge swordfish heads…

You can try street specialities such as pane con la milza or pani ca’ meusa (a sandwich of spleen fried in lard, served up with caciocavallo or ricotta cheese and lemon), arancini (fried rice balls, usually stuffed with meat) and panelle (gram flour fritters).

You could also take a breather and enjoy a marsala (vintage wine) at such bars as the legendary Taverna Azzurra, in the Vucciria, a meeting point every weekend after nightfall, when the market streets have been taken over by the youth, birras, music, table football and grills stuffed with stigghiola (tripe seasoned with salt, pepper and lemon, with or without bread).

You can stroll through the markets, sip a marsala wine and eat stigghiola. But you can also trek across the whole city and take note of some of the eateries worth visiting.

Da Diego. Pizzas and more, on the Via della Libertá. Not a tourist in sight and filled to bursting. An assortment of thick-dough pizzas stuffed with ingredients. We go for the one with mozzarella, sausage, spinach and mushrooms, accompanied by some swordfish involtini (rolls) with aubergine sauce, and sfinzione (Sicilian pizza) stuffed with ricotta and pesto. This is a type of focaccia topped with a crust of tomato, caciocavallo cheese, anchovy, onion and aromatic herbs.

Trattoria Michele & Jolanda. Just like home. We expected home cooking and, boy, did we get it! There you’ll be welcomed by Michele in the dining-room and Jolanda in the kitchen, sitting down at the table as if she were a guest. We order caponata (aubergine and other vegetables in tomato sauce), caprese (tomato, fresh mozzarella and basil) and a cold pepper salad as antipasti. Then pasta alla norma (tomato, aubergine and other vegetables), accompanied by le sarde, a typical Palermo recipe based on fresh sardines and fennel. And, not to be disloyal to the traditional repertoire, we round it off with cannoli– crisp, rolled pastry wafers filled with ricotta cheese. If you’re looking for an entertaining, lively, tasty, homemade meal at a good price, don’t fail to come here. It’s on the Via Cappuccini 12.

Osteria Mangia e Bevi. Quaint and pleasant. Beyond the family milieu we come to a trendier restaurant, but without foregoing fresh, wholesome cuisine, of course. We can recommend this restaurant for its fresh pasta, its fried pasta and its agglassati – two traditional ways of using up leftovers from yesterday’s dishes. Ideal, too, for tasting local wines and a marvellous cannolo served in a glass.

Other Pointers

When it comes to lodgings, we can recommend the Castelnuovo area, set in a shopping precinct and just a stone’s throw from the old town. We stayed at the Hotel Politeama, which is functional and provides wonderful, congenial service and a breakfast not lacking in sweet, savoury, fruit, jams with a host of flavours, different kinds of bread and even cannoli! The hotel looks onto a large piazza and the airport bus stops right outside the door, giving you a headstart if you want to move about without wasting time.

If you have the odd day left over, you are encouraged to get out of Palermo and discover a bit of Sicily. To accomplish this it is wise to get in touch with Ulisse, which organises regular, private outings from there. They really look after you – you won’t have any language difficulties and will be spared hassles when you need to use public transport and pick your way through the island’s chaotic traffic.

A destination worth discovering – Check out our flights here.

Text and photos by Silvia Artaza (Gastronomistas)