Walpurgis Night – the night of witches or, in German, Walpurgisnacht– is held at the transit from 30 April to 1 May in much of central and northern Europe. May 1 is the feast of St Walpurga, the patron saint of countrywomen and servants, and patroness of conjurers. Legend has it that this is the last time witches can celebrate their heathen festivals after the darkness of winter, and they have the whole night to do so.

One of the most popular sites for this ritual is Brocken, the highest summit in the Harz Mountains (some 50 km from Leipzig, Germany). This peak is often shrouded in dense fog, endowing it with an air of mystery. It even gives rise to an unusual effect known as the Brocken Spectre – an optical illusion that can appear in any fog-clad mountains, by which an enlarged shadow of the observer, surrounded by an iridescent halo, is reflected onto the clouds. The effect is actually created by the diffraction of cloud droplets. This also helped to magnify the legend of the witches in the place mentioned by the German writer, Goethe, at the beginning of his best-known work, Faust, when he describes the scene of the witches’ night celebration on the slopes of the Harz mountains. On Walpurgisnacht, participants assemble at Brocken around a large bonfire and spend the night singing and dancing. The festive ritual is purported to drive off evil spirits. Witches’ night is celebrated at all villages in the Harz Mountains, where the inhabitants dress up as witches and demons, while street markets, fireworks, parades and concerts are organised. Check out the programme listing all the Walpurgis Night activities in Harz.

The Harz Mountains – Following in the Witches’ Footsteps

Accounts from the Harz are not limited to witches. This mountain range in Lower Saxony is an impressive nature reserve featuring some of the really beautiful spots. The mountain trails wind their way between steep cliffs and valleys, ash forests, and networks of villages, palaces and castles dating from the time of the Saxon Dynasty. It is northern Germany’s resort of choice for cross-country skiing and hiking, traversing the natural habitats of the red brocket, deer, lynx and wild boar, as well as the white-throated dipper, black stork and peregrine falcon.

The Harz is criss-crossed by a network of over 8,000 kilometres of well-signposted nature trails, making it a paradise for hikers. While the Harz National Park itself is practically uninhabited, you will come across a few hamlets and restaurants offering genuine, typical German cuisine – the stellar dish of the region is roast potatoes with spices. One of the trekking routes, known as Harzer Hexenstieg (Witches’ Route), is a trail running some 100 kilometres from Osterode, through Brocken, as far as Thale. Halfway along the trail, at a place called Torfhaus, the witches’ trail forks along a stretch known as “Goethe”. Indeed, the poet and playwright walked this same route some 200 years ago.

Fairytale Villages in the Harz Region

The Harz Mountains are also dotted with some charming 16th-century villages, rich in history and legend. Of these, we have highlighted the following:

Goslar. At the foot of the Harz range lies this picturesque medieval town, known as the “Rome of the North”. It was the residence of German kings and emperors until 1253. The historic town and the old Rammelsberg mines, situated on the edge of the town, are listed as World Heritage sites. Also listed by UNESCO is the nearby Upper Harz Water Regale (Oberharzer Wasserregal), one of the world’s largest and most important pre-Industrial Revolution energy-management systems. Its 107 dams and reservoirs and over 300 kilometres of water channels provide a stunning backdrop for the Harz mountain hiking trails.

Wernigerode. This, the nearest town to Brocken is noteworthy for its striking hilltop castle and its medieval houses elaborately adorned with wood carvings.

Thale. Situated in the picturesque Bode Gorge, overlooked by the Hexentanzplatz, a lofty hilltop which can be reached by cable car. Hexentanzplatz, meaning “witches’ dance-floor”, was once a place of worship in Saxon times, sacred to the forest and mountain goddesses. Here you will find various landmarks associated with witches’ legends, in addition to the Walpurgishalle Museum.

Quedlinburg. Just 10 kilometres from Thale lies Quedlinburg, the first capital of Germany and an important town during the Middle Ages. It currently holds the largest concentration of half-timbered buildings in the country. An interesting fact is that this town was ruled by women for 800 years.

You aren’t scared, are you? Come and see it for yourself. Check out our flights here.

Text by Scanner FM

Images by Olli Henze | Σ64 | Mundus Gregorius | GerturdK | Mathias Liebing |  JuTe CLZ | Marco Hamersma

Among the many charms of Spain’s capital, the quarter known as the Madrid of the Austrias is one of the most exciting areas in the city. The irregular layout in this section of Madrid’s historic district dates from the 16th and 17th century. It was the setting for duels and intrigues, and a privileged witness to the passage of the Habsburg dynasty through the city. Indeed, it was the Habsburgs or Austrias who chose Madrid to be the capital of their empire and they had it embellished to reflect that status.

Plaza Mayor and Environs

The Plaza Mayor is the main precinct to be built by the Austrias in Madrid and, as such, the perfect spot to start our itinerary. Full of atmosphere and thronging with people, it is one of Europe’s most beautiful squares. The project designer was Juan de Herrera, commissioned by Philip II, although it was during the reign of Philip III that it acquired something like its current appearance. I say “something like” because it was gutted by fire in 1790 and had to be restored to a design by Juan de Villanueva. Sited on one side of the square is the Casa de la Panadería, dating from 1590, the first building to go up in the precinct. In the centre of the square stands the equestrian statue of Philip III, by Giambologna and Pietro Tacca.

Emerging from the square along Calle Gerona, opposite us stands the opulent Santa Cruz Palace, in the Plaza de las Provincias, which originally served as a royal prison. Built in Herrerian style as of 1629, in 1791 it also sustained fire damage and was likewise restored under the direction of Villanueva. However, some of its original features were retained, notably the main entrance portal, the twin towers flanking the facade and the large, central coast-of-arms. Since 1938 it has been the seat of the Ministry of Foreign Affairs.

In the same square stands a replica of the 17th-century Fuente de Orfeo (Orpheus Fountain) – the original is housed in the National Archaeological Museum. Continuing along Calle de la Fresa as far as Calle Postas, we come to the Posada del Peine, one of the oldest hostel facilities in Spain, founded in 1610.

Calle Arenal and Plaza de Oriente

From here we walk into Calle del Arenal, site of the popular, 17th-century Church of San Ginés which houses a large number of artworks. Nearby stands the legendary San Ginés Chocolate Factory, dating from 1894, a favourite among Madrilenians for having chocolate con churros.

The area between Calle Arenal and Gran Vía contains a network of streets which are the site of a  number of well-preserved monasteries, including the Monastery of the Descalzas Reales and the Convent of the Encarnación.

Further along Calle Arenal we come to the Plaza de Isabel II, formerly known as the Caños del Peral, with its spectacular Teatro Real facade. The square was important at the time of the Austrias as standing in its centre was one of the city’s major fountains. The remains of this fountain can still be seen by going down into the Ópera metro station.

Going around the Teatro Real we come to the Plaza de Oriente, home to the Royal Palace, which stands on the former site of the Habsburg citadel, known as the Alcázar. South of the Plaza de Oriente lies the Plaza de Ramales, once the site of the Church of St John the Baptist, where Diego Velázquez was buried. Oddly enough, various searches were conducted to find his bones. They were never found, but are still believed to be somewhere in the square.

Heading down Calle San Nicolás, we emerge into one of the oldest parts of the quarter, featuring the church of St Nicholas of Bari, the oldest church in Madrid. Turning back towards Calle Mayor, we come across the Palace of the Dukes of Uceda, a majestic 17th-century residence. Next door stands the Church of El Sacramento, which was financed by the Duke of Uceda in 1616.

Back in the Plaza Mayor, a must-visit landmark is the Arco de Cuchilleros, a traditional arcade lined with mesones and home to the famous restaurant, Casa Botín which, founded in 1725, has the honour of being the oldest restaurant in the world. The Arco de Cuchilleros was built by Juan Gómez de Mora in 1619 to offset the split level between the square and the Cava de San Miguel. This building, which is three storeys higher than the rest of the ensemble, was for centuries the tallest construction in Madrid. Behind the Cava de San Miguel lies the San Miguel Market, a favourite among Madrilenians when they go out to eat top-quality tapas. Near the market stands the Plaza de la Villa, one of the most emblematic Habsburg squares in the city on account of three unique buildings – the Casa de la Villa – the former City Hall – the House and Tower of Los Lujanes and the Casa de Cisneros.

Be sure to visit the Austrias’ Madrid – book your Vueling here.

Text by Aleix Palau for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

No, we’re not thinking of homing in on all the Britons who travel to the island – and there are quite a few of them – or visiting the places they frequent, which could well be the subject of another post. Instead, let’s take a closer look at a period of Minorca’s past which still lingers there. Apart from boasting many beautiful beaches, the fact is this Balearic island occupies a strategic location in the Mediterranean. In previous centuries this led it to become a prize coveted by all in their jostle to control the trade routes across the Mare Nostrum. This small stretch of sea was fought over by Phoenicians, Greeks, Carthaginians, Romans, Vandals, Normans, Arabs, Spaniards, English and French.

This time we are focusing on the British crown, which occupied Minorca for nearly a century – from 1708 to 1802 – which ended with the signing of the Treaty of Amiens. A period when the British left their mark on the island’s people, architecture, language and cuisine and in many other ways.

The first example that comes to mind is the presence of Anglicisms in Minorcan,with such words as fáitim (fight him), joques (jokes) or fingles (fingers), or expressions like quatre mens i un boi (i.e. “four men and a boy”, meaning very few people) or fer un trinqui (“have atrinqui” from “drink”).

Gastronomy is another facet of Minorcan culture where the British have left their imprint. In the old recipes, lard is used instead of the native olive oil, while one of the island’s traditional desserts –greixera dolça– is a reworking of an English steam pudding. The pomada,one of the most popular cocktails in Minorca and a mainstay in all its festivals, contains gin – Minorcan gin – which, as you may have surmised, was introduced by the British.

Also well preserved are numerousarchitectural remainsdating back to the period of the British occupation which are well worth visiting when you happen to be on the island. Here are some of the most noteworthy examples:

The area around Mahón harbour. During their time on the island, the British made concerted efforts to build defence works around the harbour in the form of numerous forts and towers designed to withstand enemy assault. Once such example is Fort Marlborough, located in the Esteve Cove south of the port. It was built from 1720 to 1726 and named after Sir John Churchill, Duke of Marlborough. It is now a museum dedicated to the history of both Minorca and Europe in the 18th century. Be sure to stroll around its moat and to take in views of the historic areas of Mahón harbour.

Also located on the south shore of the harbour mouth is St Philip’s Castle, originally built by the Spanish in the 16th century as a defence against the Turks. With the British occupation its exterior was reinforced. A striking feature of this castle is the network of underground galleries, a veritable labyrinth of passageways which was used as a shelter by both the British and Spanish during times of enemy attack.

Hard by St Philip’s Castle is the municipality of Es Castell, which was founded by the British in 1771 and originally named Georgetown. It was built to an orthogonal ground plan and its standout feature is the Esplanade, which now houses the town hall. When the island was returned to the Spanish, it was renamed Villacarlos, in honour of Charles III.

Lastly,  situated in Mahón harbour is Isla del Rey, also known as Bloody Island, as it was there that King Alfonso III landed in 1287 on his way to reconquer Minorca from the Moors. Apart from vestiges of an early-Christian church, there are remains of a military hospital built by the British.

El Camí d’en Kane (Kane’s Walk). Sir Richard Kane was lieutenant-governor of Minorca during the first two periods of British occupation. One of the many infrastructure works he committed was a road linking Mahón to Ciutadella, of which the only surviving stretch runs from Mahón to Es Mercadal. It is well worth travelling, preferably by bicycle, as it is ideal for enjoying the island’s scenic interior. At some stage along the route you will come across an obelisk commemorating the endeavours of Sir Richard Kane.

Watchtowers. Still standing are numerous watchtowers built by the British as lookouts to alert to enemy incursions. The largest of them is the Fornells Tower, but you will find many more around the island’s perimeter – Torre des Castellar (Ciutadella), Torre de Sa Mesquida and Torre Cala Molí (Mercadal), among others.

Our last recommendation when retracing the British presence on the island consists of two colonial houses which now offer accommodation – Hotel Son Granot, built in 1712, with magnificent views of Mahón harbour, and Hostal El Almirante, dating from 1809, located in Es Castell.

While roaming from cove to cove across the island, be sure to also seek out Minorca’s past – book your Vueling here!

Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Images by jorapa , Fundació Destí Menorca

The beautiful region of Campania in southern Italy features two gems that enable us to spotlight daily life during the Roman period – Pompeii and Herculaneum. The fact that these archaeological sites are so well preserved – possibly more so than any other in Europe – on account of a natural disaster has a horrific, spine-chilling side to it. This somehow magnanimous tragedy was caused by the eruption of Mt Vesuvius on 24 August in AD 79, which buried in lava and ashes these two localities, which became frozen in time forever, or at least for many centuries. Nowadays both sites are places of pilgrimage for tourists, bystanders and scholars eager to find out more about Rome’s past.

Pompeii

Prior to forming part of the Roman Empire, Pompeii (Pompei, in Italian) was a Greek and Samnite settlement. In AD 62 it was struck by a terrible earthquake, which left part of the city in ruins. Interestingly enough, some remains from that time reveal Pompeii in the throes of reconstruction, as evinced in the Temple of Jupiter, or the plaques on some buildings featuring the names of benefactors who had helped fund the repair work. Unfortunately, their efforts were in vain, as the eruption of Vesuvius led it all to be smothered in lapilli, causing the death of the entire population and rendering Pompeii uninhabitable.

The city fell into oblivion until it was rediscovered and excavated in 1748 under Charles III of Spain, also known as Charles VII of Naples. Initially, the excavations were only intended to salvage valuable objects, which were then incorporated into the royal collection. Over time, however, the endeavours took on a more professional guise and archaeological work on the site continues even today. Stories from the past are still being unearthed, while work to preserve the ruins is ongoing.

A tour of Pompeii should be taken calmly. The itinerary usually takes about 3 to 4 hours and our first recommendation is to wear sturdy footwear and, should you visit the site in summer, to avoid the peak sunlight hours and wear sun protection. And, of course, to get the most out of your visit, it is advisable to secure a guide, who will orientate you and point out the various areas, or at least an audio guide. But, it is well worth the effort, as the itinerary is full of stories, anecdotes and a number of surprises. One such titbit is The House of the Tragic Poet, where in the vestibule you can see a mosaic with the inscription, Cave Canem (Beware of the Dog)! Or the risque frescoes in the changing rooms of the Underground Thermae, with sexually explicit scenes. Other thermae, known as the Stabian Baths, reveal a sophisticated system of heating using hot air, which circulated between the walls under the floor.

Be sure to visit the Villa dei Misteri, one of the most important buildings in the whole complex. A noteworthy feature of the interior is the stunning Dionysiac frieze, a series of frescoes depicting the rituals of initiation into the “bridal mysteries”. Another house, the House of the Vettii, one of the most luxurious in the city, boasts some excellent frescoes, some of which depict trompe l'oeil views of architecture.

Herculaneum

While Pompeii is more popular among visitors and covers a larger area, the best preserved ruins are to be found in Herculaneum (Ercolano, in Italian). This is true of the houses which in some cases are two-storeys buildings. In this instance the houses were both buried by and preserved for posterity by the pyroclastic flow of the eruption. Excavations got under way in 1738 and the finds unearthed here exerted a marked influence on Neoclassicism. Among the many that came to light in 1980 in the rooms or fornici were over 200 skeletons of people of all ages and social status huddled under archways who were burned by the heat given out by the volcano. Interestingly, they had taken refuge from the disaster with their most valuable belongings in harbour warehouses.

Herculaneum was smaller in size than Pompeii and excavations have revealed mainly houses, most of them with magnificent mosaics, as in the House of the Mosaic Atrium, the House of Neptune and Amphitrite and the House of the Skeleton. Other landmarks include the male and female bath houses which have yielded considerable details about life during those times.

National Archaeological Museum

We recommend rounding off your tour of those sites by a visit to the National Archaeological Museum in Naples, which houses a large part of the objects, frescoes and mosaics excavated at both Pompeii and Herculaneum.

Treat yourself to a getaway to Naples and travel back in time to Pompeii and Herculaneum.

Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Images by Pablo Cabezos, Andy Hay, Carlo Mirante, momo, Citi-zen, Aleksandr Zykov, Rachel Bickley, Amphipolis