The Amalfi Coast Sublime Campania
We’ve often been asked by friends and acquaintances to recommend a getatable romantic destination for some special celebration with their partner. We always give them the same answer – the Amalfi Coast, in Italy’s Campania region. Indeed, you cannot help but fall in love with this slice of coastline, bathed by the waters of the Tyrrhenian Sea, with winding roads concealing some of Italy’s sublimest, most picturesque villages.
The best spot to start out on your itinerary is Sorrento. While not strictly on the coastal route, it is still a charming destination whose luxury hotels have attracted the big names in opera, notably Enrico Caruso and Luciano Pavarotti, acclaimed for his memorable interpretations of Torna a Surriento, one of the best known Neapolitan songs in the world. The balconies so characteristic of the seafront of this Neapolitan town afford some of the best views of Mt Vesuvius, a volcano which has scored the history of this land with fire.
Positano is the first village we come to on the Amalfi Coast or Costiera Amalfitana. Before driving into it, there are some wonderful viewpoints affording vistas of the village, with its houses clinging to the hillside, providing one of the most elegant and iconic picture postcards in Italy. Picturesque and unique, Positano is a must-visit spot on the Amalfi Coast and a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1997. Its steep streets are lined with fashion boutiques and shops selling typical products, while some of its “almost affordable” hotels are veritable backwaters of peace and quiet where many a couple have uttered their “Yes, I do”. This is the case with the Hotel Poseidon, run by the Aonzo brothers, who pamper their guests as if they were true friends.
We still recall how Marco kindly let us use one of his collector cars, a crimson red Alfa Romeo Spider, which we drove like celebrities of the Italian Neorealism to visit other legendary villages on the Amalfi Coast –Amalfi and Ravello. The former, after which this stretch of coastline in the Gulf of Salerno is named, is noteworthy for its flamboyant Piazza del Duomo and the staircase leading up to the Cathedral. Amalfi is the ideal place for shopping along its crowded streets, as well as for sitting down in some secluded restaurant with sea views to lunch or dine on some of the local specialities, notably fish in acqua pazza, washed down with a fine white Fiano di Avellino wine. The final gastronomic flourish is provided by the local queen of liqueurs, limoncello, made from the large, aromatic lemons grown in this area.
Another renowned village on the Amalfi Coast is Ravello, which has a gem in its Villa Cimbrone gardens, which are open to the public, and the marvellous Villa Rufolo, a spot that has enchanted poets, artists and musicians and has helped turn this part of the Italian coastline into one of the ideal places to get married.
Book your Vueling to Naples and make a tour of the Amalfi Coast.
Text by Tus Destinos
more infoWalking Among Volcanoes
When you picture yourself on holiday in Lanzarote, it’s easy to make the mistake of conjuring up images of black, sandy beaches streaked with rows of sunshades and deck chairs, sun-reddened tourists wielding selfie sticks while perched on a camel’s hump – they are actually dromedaries – and hotels offering a free buffet three times a day. While clichés might be hard to banish, the truth is that “the island of volcanoes” is much more than just that.
The route we feature today bears this out – Vulcan Walk Lanzarote is a walking trail which stretches from Playa Blanca in the south to Órzola in the far north and takes you through the island’s most virgin and solitary areas. Lanzarote in four easy, varied stages which, if you prefer, can be extended to five. Further, to round it off, at the end of the hike you can opt to ferry across the sea to the small, idyllic island of La Graciosa, there to spend a couple of days delighting in its coloured mountains, enticing white sandy beaches and, above all, the reigning peace and tranquillity.
Stage 1. Crossing Los Ajaches
From Playa Blanca to Uga - 17 km / 900 m+ / 6 hours
The route starts in Playa Blanca, on the Atlantic seaboard – specifically the beach of Las Coloradas, from where you can see the mysterious outline of the neighbouring Fuerteventura island. As soon as you leave the built-up area behind, you enter the desolate massif of Los Ajaches. This vast, eroded landscape emerged some 20 million years ago and it is there that you start climbing up towards the summit of Hacha Grande (561 m).
After this first ascent, the best thing is to refuel on a delicious meal of ropavieja (meat, chickpeas, potatoes, red peppers, onion and garlic, bay leaf, thyme and cloves). This tasty dish is served up at the small Restaurante Femés, located at the village roundabout. Be warned that Femés is the only inhabited spot on today’s route.
The stage continues towards Atalaya de Femés (609 m), the second highest point on Lanzarote, after which you embark on the long, panoramic descent to Uga. The vast lava field you’ll be crossing tomorrow can be distinguished from the heights.
Stage 2. From the Heart of La Geria to the Malpaís of Timanfaya
From Uga to Tinajo - 21 km / 350 m+ / 7 hours
After spending the night in a cosy country house in Uga and breakfasting in their leafy garden – the ideal time to taste their traditional, energy-packed gofio– the second stage leads us to the heart of La Geria, a unique winemaking area in that the vines grow on picón,the volcanic gravel produced by eruptions from the early 18th century which changed the landscape of much of the island.
At the 5-kilometre mark you cross the main road and walk past two wine cellars. Bear in mind that this is your last food station before you get to Tinajo at the 18-kilometre mark.
The route continues through the malpaís of Timanfaya, a dream-like inferno of rocks, calderas and lava fields which is reached via a winding trail reserved for hikers. You wander along this route for hours through the chaos of Lanzarote’s youngest magma.
Stage 3. Coasting the Ocean
From Tinajo to Caleta de Famara - 21 km / 150 m+ / 6 hours
On the third day, the route leads from Tinajo to Caleta de Famara along the rugged seaboard, where the ocean roars between wave-eroded cliffs and volcanoes. After crowning Mt Bermeja, you come to the surfing capital of the island via an unforgettable coastal strip of white sand punctuated by large black rocks encrusted with olivine. At the end of the day, the formidable Risco de Famara cliff-face becomes tinged with the warm colours of the sunset.
For food, at the 8-kilometre mark you go through the small fishing village of La Santa (not to be confused with the nearby sports vacation centre). At the bar called El Quemao, in the street of the same name, which is frequented by local fishermen, you can eat well and cheaply. The seafood soup comes highly recommended, particularly when the fresh north wind is blowing.
Stage 4. The Abyss of the Heights
From Caleta de Famara to Órzola - 27 km / 1.500 m+ / 9 hours
The fourth stage, from Famara to Órzola, is the longest and toughest on the whole route. It runs entirely along the stunning cliffs of Risco de Famara. Access is via an amazing oasis which grows in the Barranco de la Paja, a valley flanked by sharp slopes rising over 600 metres above the Atlantic.
To have a rest and find something to eat, it is advisable to take the detour which goes through Haría (11-kilometre mark), as it has all kinds of bars and restaurants.
After your noon stopover, the route starts climbing towards the Gayo peaks, which feature some spectacular vantage points. From here it is only a few kilometres to the popular Mirador del Río. The panoramic view from this lookout is on a grand scale – the island of La Graciosa looks like a 3D map, with its colourful volcanoes, shining beach sand and white houses.
The final descent along the trail leads to the port of Órzola. Your baggage and tickets will be waiting for you at the lockers in El Graciosero. Half an hour later you land at the neighbouring island of La Graciosa, where time seems to stand still.
Relax on La Graciosa
The small island of La Graciosa, with an area of just 29 km2 and still free of tarred roads, is the ideal hideout for relaxing for a couple of days at the end of the hike. Or, if you are still rearing to go, for exploring its fantastic landscape.
Book your Vueling to Lanzarote and gear up for a heady shot of trekking across the island.
Text by Sergio Fernández Tolosa & Amelia Herrero Becker of Con un Par de Ruedas
Photos by Con un Par de Ruedas and Clara Bon Photography
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A Different Milan
By Tensi Sánchez from actitudesmgz.com
Milan has been the economic, industrial and financial capital of Italy since the 1970s. Nonetheless, all the attention on this city is garnered by its expensive fashion boutiques and the majestic cathedral, one of the most perfect and famous religious to be found anywhere in the world.
Walking around the edge of the old historic centre evokes feelings of the industrial city that Milan still is today, but the more central streets of the inner city exude history through their old buildings and it is easy to understand why this used to be a major capital of the Roman Empire.
I have discovered many interesting shops, restaurants and galleries in the historic centre that offer a great alternative to the typical tourist trails through the city and a great way to fill a morning. Travelling on the metro or the tram is the best option and, what’s more, the tram network still uses a few carriages that date back to the 1920s. Taking a ride around the city on one of those old trams is an irresistible treat.
It has become hugely fashionable of late to partake of the so-called brunch, that undefined area somewhere between breakfast and lunch. At Zerodue, they offer brunch every Sunday but you should get there before midday because the place fills up so quickly. They have a varied buffet and the decoration is to die for. Radetzky Café can be found in Garibaldi street and is also very famous for its brunches, as well as for the “cotolettas alla milanese” (Milanese cutlets).
The best hamburger in the city is served at Mamaburger, where the décor is totally minimal and rather unusual to say the least. Still on the subject of hamburgers, 202 Hamburger & Delicious and Tizzy’s are also highly recommendable.
Milan is also a bustling hive of activity insofar as art is concerned. The city is simply bursting with contemporary art galleries.
The Galería de Carla Sotaní has ties to the famous and very pricey fashion boutique 10corsocomo. Before venturing into the gallery, visitors have the chance to explore the Box and Design Shop that can be found on the same floor.
Finally, we have the Galería Anfiteatro Arte and Spazio Rosanna Orlanni. A visit to the latter would not be complete without looking in on its designer furniture and accessories store.
If you are a lover of design, this is the perfect city for you. The five-storey Hightech building will keep you entertained for hours, and also has a restaurant and cafeteria for recharging your batteries. Here you will find all sorts of never-before-seen curiosities presented in a pleasant and welcoming atmosphere. The place describes itself as “a sea port in the city”.
At 89 Porta di Ticinese you will come acrossOltolini; a shop dedicated to all things designer kitchen at more than reasonable prices.
Finally, I was thrilled to discover Aspesi 1910; a shop selling 100% ‘Made in Italy’ glasses that has been operating in the city for more than 100 years. You will find a host of unimaginable designs and colours well within reach.
Fashion in Milan simply cannot be ignored. The Porta di Ticinese district and neighbouring streets are full of small boutiques waiting to be discovered. Here are a few that surprised me because they try to step away from the conventional:
Maison I Yamakabe – Italian jewellery with personality and originality; Panca’s Designer – different footwear;
Dictionary Milano – men’s and women’s fashion with such brands as Scotch & Soda, Camo; Frip – a very cool shop where you can find such brands as Acne and their Little brand Frippino for the small, budding musketeers in the house; unique records and accessories at Serendeepity; and finally, two shops dedicated to the world of vintage clothes and complements, Groupies and Lo Especchio di Alice.
One of my favourite hotels in Milan is the Crowne Plaza, with its impeccable interior design and magnificent outdoor terrace. However, its best feature for me is that the entrance to the metro is inside the hotel itself, thus making it a rather unique hotel.
Before going to a party in Milan, one usually enjoys an aperitif at about 7 in the evening. It is an inexpensive and entertaining way to start the night. A typical aperitif consists of a good “Negroni” accompanied by some modest snacks. Nowadays, the aperitif scene has become a veritable institution of the city’s night life and is the reason why most bars offer a variety of tasty dishes to eat in the evening, including pasta, risotto, salads and some more exotic food dotted around. The aperitif has thus become a valid alternative to dinner at just the price of a cocktail (between 5 and 10 euros) in a great atmosphere with good music.
Do you feel like going to Milan? Well, wait no longer and book your flight with Vueling!
PS: The recipe for a Negroni
INGREDIENTS: 1/3 gin; 1/3 Campari (bitter); 1/3 red Vermouth
Pour all the ingredients straight into a single glass with only a couple of ice cubes (max.). Never use crushed ice because the Negroni should never be watered down. Mix well and serve in a cold cocktail glass. Some people add a few drops of lemon to enhance the flavour, especially the gin. However, the original formula would be served with a slice of orange on the rim of the glass.
A “Negroni” is a great aperitif for stimulating your appetite. It was invented in the early 1900s and its name comes from Camillo Negroni, who always used to order the same cocktail in Florence. Cheers!
By Tensi Sánchez from actitudesmgz.com
Photography: Rubén Seco
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Nooks of Napoli
Musical journalist Bruno Sokolowicz decided to leave behind his hectic work life for a few years to embark upon a long journey leisurely exploring the most out of the way corners of the world. His plan: to slow down, turn off the auto-pilot and learn to look at the world around him again – to live every experience as if it was the first time again. First stop: Naples.
Napoli is a fascinating city. Unique. With great character. It is THE city of southern Italy. A historical marvel, architectural wonder, artistic beauty, gastronomic delight and geological impressive. Its inhabitants are as hot-blooded as the lava from Mount Vesuvius, the volcano that looms over the city, always in the background. There is an endless list of historical buildings, castles, palaces and churches to visit in Naples: Castel dell’Ovo, Palazzo Reale, the iglesia del Gesù Nuovo and the Capella Sansevero where one of the most special statues from the history of sculpture can be found – the Veiled Christ by Giuseppe di San Martino
On this tour, we will explore the streets of this Mediterranean city and its surrounding area in search of some unique sites.
Pizza Da Michele
The world’s first pizza parlour, opened in 1870. Even today, with thousands of pizza parlours all around the planet, it continues to be one of the best and, of course, the most authentic. They only offer the two classic varieties from the city: Margarita (normal or double cheese) and Marinara. Less is more!
It was here that the pizza legend began and the most popular version comes from Naples: the Margarita. Three colours like the Italian flag: white for the mozzarela di buffala, red for the home-made tomato sauce and green for the fresh basil.
For those interested in more “pizzeril” gastronomy tourism, there are a couple of appealing alternatives to a Da Michele (always full of both locals and tourists long before Julia Roberts scoffed her pizza in “Eat, Pray, Love”): Gino Sorbillo, the inventor of the calzone, wide variety of pizzas. Quality.
Di Matteo, spectacular Marinara (no mozzarela, but with a decent portion of garlic).
A shopping precinct with some serious architectural touches from the end of the 19th Century. Built at the same time as the Eiffel Tower in Paris, the architect Emanuele Rocco was inspired by the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II in Milan. Tall, imposing, something interesting wherever you look. From the mosaics on the floor to the glass and metal domed ceiling. For talking a walk indoors around the Naples of 120 years ago.
Mergellina Fishing Port
Strolling along the shores of Naples, leaving Mount Vesuvius behind us, we reach the old fishing village of Mergellina. Today, it is a district of the city with its own character where locals relax in the sun, especially at weekends. One sunny Sunday morning, no matter if it’s in the middle of winter, the fishing port of Mergellina fills with walkers, roller-skaters, cyclists and people gathering for chat. People seeking to enjoy the more Mediterranean side of the city. An excellent place to buy live fish directly from the fishermen on the boats or on the beach. Or even to eat that fish in one of the many beach bars that dot the promenade.
Posillipo
Fancy wandering around the most beautiful houses in Naples? Take a photo of the bay from where you can see the whole city, the sea and Mount Vesuvius in the background? Go to a park and take in the Mediterranean breeze? Take a break from the fast pace of the city and recharge your batteries? If you answered ‘yes’ to any of these questions, then you can’t leave Naples without visiting the residential Posillipo district, where the smart, rich people live. But don’t worry, you won’t spend much money there because there are hardly any bars or shops to be found. Just lovely tree-lined streets, views of the sea, gorgeous houses, parks and lookout points. Basically, a wealth of peace and beauty to be enjoyed free of charge. Check it out!
Solfatara de Pozzuoli
Two thousand years ago, Mount Vesuvius was one single volcano. With the violent eruption of 24 August of 79 AD, which buried the cities of Pompeii and Herculaneum (also recommended visits), a crater was formed that created a volcano with two peaks: Vesuvius and Solfatara. Solfatara is like a snub-nosed volcano with vents that stink of rotten eggs. That is the smell of sulphur, which was once associated with hell and the devil, and that some believe today increases libido, strengthens sex lives and enhances reproduction when inhaling the fumes. Just in case it’s true or even if you only get the placebo effect from visiting Solfatara de Pozzuoli, it has to be included as another place of interest in the Gulf of Naples.
By Bruno Sokolowicz from scannerFM
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