A Different Milan
By Tensi Sánchez from actitudesmgz.com
Milan has been the economic, industrial and financial capital of Italy since the 1970s. Nonetheless, all the attention on this city is garnered by its expensive fashion boutiques and the majestic cathedral, one of the most perfect and famous religious to be found anywhere in the world.
Walking around the edge of the old historic centre evokes feelings of the industrial city that Milan still is today, but the more central streets of the inner city exude history through their old buildings and it is easy to understand why this used to be a major capital of the Roman Empire.
I have discovered many interesting shops, restaurants and galleries in the historic centre that offer a great alternative to the typical tourist trails through the city and a great way to fill a morning. Travelling on the metro or the tram is the best option and, what’s more, the tram network still uses a few carriages that date back to the 1920s. Taking a ride around the city on one of those old trams is an irresistible treat.
It has become hugely fashionable of late to partake of the so-called brunch, that undefined area somewhere between breakfast and lunch. At Zerodue, they offer brunch every Sunday but you should get there before midday because the place fills up so quickly. They have a varied buffet and the decoration is to die for. Radetzky Café can be found in Garibaldi street and is also very famous for its brunches, as well as for the “cotolettas alla milanese” (Milanese cutlets).
The best hamburger in the city is served at Mamaburger, where the décor is totally minimal and rather unusual to say the least. Still on the subject of hamburgers, 202 Hamburger & Delicious and Tizzy’s are also highly recommendable.
Milan is also a bustling hive of activity insofar as art is concerned. The city is simply bursting with contemporary art galleries.
The Galería de Carla Sotaní has ties to the famous and very pricey fashion boutique 10corsocomo. Before venturing into the gallery, visitors have the chance to explore the Box and Design Shop that can be found on the same floor.
Finally, we have the Galería Anfiteatro Arte and Spazio Rosanna Orlanni. A visit to the latter would not be complete without looking in on its designer furniture and accessories store.
If you are a lover of design, this is the perfect city for you. The five-storey Hightech building will keep you entertained for hours, and also has a restaurant and cafeteria for recharging your batteries. Here you will find all sorts of never-before-seen curiosities presented in a pleasant and welcoming atmosphere. The place describes itself as “a sea port in the city”.
At 89 Porta di Ticinese you will come acrossOltolini; a shop dedicated to all things designer kitchen at more than reasonable prices.
Finally, I was thrilled to discover Aspesi 1910; a shop selling 100% ‘Made in Italy’ glasses that has been operating in the city for more than 100 years. You will find a host of unimaginable designs and colours well within reach.
Fashion in Milan simply cannot be ignored. The Porta di Ticinese district and neighbouring streets are full of small boutiques waiting to be discovered. Here are a few that surprised me because they try to step away from the conventional:
Maison I Yamakabe – Italian jewellery with personality and originality; Panca’s Designer – different footwear;
Dictionary Milano – men’s and women’s fashion with such brands as Scotch & Soda, Camo; Frip – a very cool shop where you can find such brands as Acne and their Little brand Frippino for the small, budding musketeers in the house; unique records and accessories at Serendeepity; and finally, two shops dedicated to the world of vintage clothes and complements, Groupies and Lo Especchio di Alice.
One of my favourite hotels in Milan is the Crowne Plaza, with its impeccable interior design and magnificent outdoor terrace. However, its best feature for me is that the entrance to the metro is inside the hotel itself, thus making it a rather unique hotel.
Before going to a party in Milan, one usually enjoys an aperitif at about 7 in the evening. It is an inexpensive and entertaining way to start the night. A typical aperitif consists of a good “Negroni” accompanied by some modest snacks. Nowadays, the aperitif scene has become a veritable institution of the city’s night life and is the reason why most bars offer a variety of tasty dishes to eat in the evening, including pasta, risotto, salads and some more exotic food dotted around. The aperitif has thus become a valid alternative to dinner at just the price of a cocktail (between 5 and 10 euros) in a great atmosphere with good music.
Do you feel like going to Milan? Well, wait no longer and book your flight with Vueling!
PS: The recipe for a Negroni
INGREDIENTS: 1/3 gin; 1/3 Campari (bitter); 1/3 red Vermouth
Pour all the ingredients straight into a single glass with only a couple of ice cubes (max.). Never use crushed ice because the Negroni should never be watered down. Mix well and serve in a cold cocktail glass. Some people add a few drops of lemon to enhance the flavour, especially the gin. However, the original formula would be served with a slice of orange on the rim of the glass.
A “Negroni” is a great aperitif for stimulating your appetite. It was invented in the early 1900s and its name comes from Camillo Negroni, who always used to order the same cocktail in Florence. Cheers!
By Tensi Sánchez from actitudesmgz.com
Photography: Rubén Seco
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The Champions League Returns to the Capital of Football
Along with Madrid, Milan is the city with the most European cups and Champions League trophies. While Madrid’s ten trophies are held by the competition’s overall master, Real Madrid, in Milan the spoils are divided between the two continental greats – AC Milan (with seven trophies) and Inter Milan (with three). The balance will of course tip in favour of the Madrilenians on 28 May, but the hottest question right now is whether Atlético Madrid is capable of finally ending its run of bad luck and conquering the greatest of finals to be crowned emperor of football on the continent. We’ll know the answer in a few days’ time.
At My Vueling City, we know only too well that the king of sports moves masses, and that hordes of people will be descending on Milan to witness one of the greatest spectacles in the world. We are aware that fans will be going on a lightning visit which, in many cases, will be less than 24 hours. No problem, as Milan has a lot to offer. Following are some tips for making the most out of this getaway. The idea is you get to see something more than the area surrounding San Siro, the stadium hosting the final.
Lightning Visit
San Siro stadium is quite far from the city centre, but it is well connected. You can get there easily by taking buses 95, 49 or 72. Tram no. 24 also has a stop there. But, the metro is clearly the fastest way of reaching the stadium – the recently unveiled Line 5 goes there direct. Curiously, the two great local soccer clubs share the stadium and, when it is Inter Milan’s turn to do so, it changes its name to Giuseppe Meazza. During the soccer season, both teams play there on alternate Sundays. On the day of the final, there are unlikely to be any guided tours but, if you visit the stadium any other time, we can recommend two. Both include a tour of the stadium, built in 1920, and visits to the players’ changerooms and to the AC Milan and Inter Milan Museum.
For those of you who will only be around for a few hours, we can recommend a walk through the inner city to give you a taste of the capital of Lombardy. Start with a stroll down the Corso Buenos Aires. This broad avenue is the backbone of the shopping district. Be sure to stop off at the Torrefazione Caffè Ernani, at Corso Buenos Aires 20. A visit to the café is essential if you want to perk up fully after the trip. They serve their own coffee, ground and roasted on the premises. Their espresso is highly aromatic and the best thing of all is the price – just one euro. Continuing down the avenue towards the centre, you will go through the Porta Venezia gateway, a sign you are entering the city’s historic centre. On the right (to the north) you will see a stunning park, the Indro Montanelli Gardens, a green lung which is ideal for having a picnic or for going for a run. Inside the park stands the impressive Villa Comunale, which currently houses the Natural History Museum. Further along what has now turned into the Corso Venezia, the avenue is lined with the storefronts of such exclusive brands as Dolce & Gabbana (which features a barber’s shop) and Vivienne Westwood. After crossing the Piazza San Babila, we recommend heading straight along the Corso Vittorio Emanuele II where big brand stores have taken over the street level. Here, the tall buildings house a number of shopping malls or galleries. The street eventually leads into the Piazza del Duomo, presided over by Milan Cathedral or Duomo di Milano with its characteristic spires. This formidable construction built of pink Candoglia marble rivets the attention of most tourists who flock to the square. Another building well worth visiting is the Museo del Novecento as it affords the best views of the Cathedral. We realise that time is at a premium and that trippers will have their mind on nothing but a ball and 22 players. However, with a view to going back to Milan at a later date, we recommend you visit the museum as it features works by some of the leading artists of the early European avant-garde, notably De Chirico, Fontana and Marinetti. Lastly, take a stroll in the Quadrilatero d’Oro, undisputed as the most acclaimed shopping precinct in the world. The “Golden Quadrilateral” with its cobbled streets roofed with translucent barrel-vaulting leaves sightseers open-mouthed.
This route will surely have whet your appetite to see more of the city, but football is football and you probably don’t have much more leeway if you’ve come specifically to see the final. Further posts about Milan will follow soon, so keep your eye on the blog. If you fancy seeing the city for yourself, check out our flights here.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS, John Seb Barber, Jose Luis Hidalgo
more infoBergamo The Pearl of Lombardy
With a millennial tradition, Bergamo rises majestically atop a hill in Lombardy. Its medieval old town is one of the best preserved in the region, with vestiges of the passage of Venetians, Austrians, Napoleon and, lastly, the unifiers under Garibaldi. But, apart from its monumental heritage, Bergamo is also famous for its cuisine and for being the birthplace of one of the leading opera composers of all time – Gaetano Donizetti.
Between the Città Alta and the Città Bassa
The Bergamasque universe is split in two. The historic centre is surrounded by an old wall at the top of a steep hill in what is known as the Città Alta or Upper City. At the foot of these hills lies the Città Bassa or Lower City which spreads across the plains and is now the hub of the city’s development.
Until the 19th century, the only connection between the two parts of Bergamo was via the sloping fortified wall gates. Over a hundred years ago, however, they were joined by a funicular railway which now links the Upper and Lower City in less than five minutes. The ride affords some stunning views.
The Essential Bergamo
The two main thoroughfares in old Bergamo are Via Gombito and Via Bartolomeo Colleoni. The network of streets that fan out from there is well worth strolling through as they are structured around the Piazza Vecchia, of which the architect Le Corbusier said it was the most beautiful square in Italy. It is also the site of some of the city’s most significant buildings. Presiding over the area is the formidable Torre Civica, also known as the Campanone, a stunning campanile from where the bells once pealed out to mark curfews and which connects the Palazzo della Ragione to the Palazzo del Podestà.
At the other end of the square stands the white Palazzo Nuovo, designed by the architect Vincenzo Scamozzi. It now houses a library, while a second-hand book and antique market sets up shop under its arcade on Sunday mornings.
The arches attached to the municipal building on the far side of the square lead to the Piazza Duomo. Sited here and well worth visiting is the Cathedral, although absolute pride of place goes to the adjoining Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore, one of the most beautiful churches in the north of Italy. Begun in the 12th century, its Romanesque exterior belies its opulent interior, studded with frescoes, coloured stucco and marquetry work of the finest quality. A prominent highlight is the Colleoni Chapel. Here, too, lie the mortal remains of the most illustrious Bergamasque, Gaetano Donizetti, as well as those of his master, the no less distinguished Simon Mayr.
A Universal Bergamasque
No account of Bergamo would be complete without mention of the composer, Gaetano Donizetti, who was born and died here. Indeed, every step one takes through the city is a constant reminder of the romantic musician. Whether you are a music lover or not, we wholeheartedly recommend visiting the Museo Donizettiano, located near the Basilica de Santa Maria, with its collection of the composer’s personal belongings and several of his handwritten musical scores. The city’s leading theatre, the Donizetti Theatre, is yet another reminder of Bergamo’s favourite son. Adjacent to the theatre, a large monument pays tribute to his figure, while in autumn the city hosts the Festival Donizetti, which includes performances of his operas and includes guest opera stars from abroad. The festival is also a good time to discover the Teatro Sociale which, after its latest refurbishment in 2009, is unlikely to leave you indifferent.
Essential Cuisine
By now nobody would be surprised to hear about the excellence of Italian cuisine, and Bergamasque cooking is no exception. The star dish in the city is their casonsei or casoncelli alla bergamasca, a meat-filled pasta with a superb sage butter sauce. Their cured meat is another forte of the region, as are the wines. There are two venues you should make a point of visiting if you want to taste their finest cuisine. First, Da Mimmo, on the Via Colleoni in the Città Alta. Here you can taste some of the local specialities and one of the city’s most famous pizzas. The other essential eatery is the Baretto de San Vigilio. You can only get there by taking a second funicular from the Città Alta. The restaurant serves delicious traditional cuisine with signature flourishes and affords what are some of the best views of Bergamo. You simply must try their homemade tiramisu, one of the tastiest in the north of Italy.
Fire up and visit this fantastic Lombard city – book your Vueling to Milan here.
Text by Aleix Palau for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by Aleix Palau, Rick Ligthelm, David Spender
more infoVersailles House of The Sun King
When you first set eyes on Versailles, you realise why it was the jewel in Louis XIV’s crown. Starting with what had been his father’s hunting lodge, the Sun King had Europe’s largest palace built. The opulent interiors and splendid gardens could accommodate up to 20,000 people. The king had the leading artists and architects at his disposal – Louis Le Vau and Hardouin-Mansart designed the building; Charles Le Brun, the interiors, while André Le Nôtre remodelled the gardens. Everything was ready to receive the court.
Europe’s Largest Palace
The main rooms in the residence were on the first floor. There we find the Chambers of the King and Queen, arranged around the Marble Court, the latter set behind the last railing in the access to the palace from the street. If you have seen films like Marie Antoinette, by Sofia Coppola, or the television series, Versailles (we can wholeheartedly recommend both), you will know that their chambers were anything but private. The queens of France used to give birth before the court, while the kings went through the daily waking routine known as le lever du Roi (the king’s rising), attended by courtiers and family members, who came to see the monarch getting up.
The king had areas where he worked, including the Council Chamber, where he received his ministers and family, or the room known as the Louis XVI Library, characterised by the sovereign’s globe of the world and its priceless Neoclassical panelling. The chambers of the king and queen are connected by the Antechamber or Oeil-de-boeuf(Bull’s-eye)Roomon account of the large round window. The story goes that, on the night of 6 October 1789, when a group of revolutionaries stormed the palace in search of Queen Marie Antionette, she fled through this room to her husband’s chamber and safety. The following day they abandoned the palace forever.
Also on the first floor, on the side of the palace giving onto the gardens, are the State Apartments. The most famous of these is the 73-metre-long Hall of Mirrors, with its views over the gardens, where major official ceremonies were held. It was there that in 1919 the Treaty of Versailles was signed, marking an end to World War I. Other rooms well worth seeing include the War Drawing Room, located next to the Hall of Mirrors and featuring a large relief of Louis XIV on horseback trampling his enemies under foot, the Apollo Drawing Room and the Hercules Drawing Room, which houses the monumental painting, Feast in the House of Simon, by Veronese, a gift from the Republic of Venice to Louis XIV.
Household Chapel and Opéra Royal
Also on the first floor is access to the Royal Chapel, used by the king and his family, and to the Battles Gallery, the outcome of a renovation by Louis-Philippe on former apartments used by nobles. It was turned into a gallery of historical paintings housing works by the likes of Delacriox and Gérard.
A must-visit site on the ground floor are the priceless Apartments of the Mesdames Adélaïde and Victoire, the daughters of Louis XV, who never married and lived here until the time of the Revolution.
Another grand edifice in the Palace of Versailles is the Opéra Royal. This theatre, built in 1770 to mark the engagement of Louis XVI and Marie Antoinette, is not open to the public. It does, however, host an interesting opera season which is the perfect excuse to spend an evening there and feel like a regular courtier.
Gardens, Fountains and Lost Palaces
After a visit to the palace, the best thing is to wander around the huge gardens and enjoy the fountains. Various shows are staged on different days, so it is worth checking out the programme before planning your visit.
The gardens are laid out in formal fashion, with geometrically-shaped pathways lined with tree groves, hedges, flowers, fountains and ponds. Fountains such as Neptune, Latona, the Colonnade and the Dragon Fountain provide some of the most impressive sights. It is rewarding to stroll among them and end off by heading for the Trianon, one of the jewels of Versailles. Here you will find two buildings – the Grand Trianon, a palace commissioned by Louis XIV as a retreat from court life and to host his mistresses, and the Petit Trianon, built for Louis XV but which became Marie Antoinette’s favourite retreat. She also had a quaint little theatre built in it. Be sure to also visit the Queen's Hamlet, where Louis XVI’s wife had an estate of twelve buildings modelled according to the aesthetic of a rural village, peasants and farm animals included. She would seek refuge here to get away from the demands of court life.
Book your Vueling to Paris and head for Versailles, which is just a half-hour’s train ride away. You won’t regret seeing such a splendid palace and feeling like a king for a few hours.
Text by Aleix Palau for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
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