Life Inside An Artwork
This small Italian town in the Sicilian province of Trapani was first settled by the Saracens in the Middle Ages. After the Second World War, on account of the post-war hardships, the area lost a substantial part of its population as many of its inhabitants emigrated to the New World. Subsequently, the town was totally devastated by an earthquake in 1968. The decision was then taken to start over from scratch, and an inventive project was drawn up to “humanise” the area, for which purpose several famous international artists were called in, names such as Pietro Consagra, Alberto Burri, Mario Schifano, Andrea Cascella, Arnaldo Pomodoro, Mimmo Paladino, Franco Angeli and Leonardo Sciascia. The town soon turned into a huge laboratory of experimental art, prompting artists to create works that ennobled the new urban precinct.
The Top 6 Monuments in Gibellina
It should be noted that the reconstruction of Gibellina arose as part of a major cultural challenge which involved both the need to built habitable dwellings and to do so in an artistic milieu. Today, Gibellina is one huge open-air, modern-architecture museum featuring some brilliant works; and, it is now inhabited once more. Here, then, are the six most stunning areas.
Il Cretto di Burri
Gibellina is a town born of a tragedy, and an earthquake at that, the remains of which are still visible beneath the vast work known as Il Cretto, by Alberto Burri. The artist was reluctant to set his work within the confines of yet another urban complex. Instead, he created a gigantic monument dedicated to the earthquake victims which stretches over the streets and alleyways of the old town. It is a massive concrete structure which hugs the ground and is scored by deep cracks. Its artistic value lies in having physically frozen the historical memory of the land. For its sheer size, Il Cretto is one of the largest artworks in the world.
The “Meeting”
In 1976 Pietro Consagra designed a monument-sculpture known as The Meeting. This large-scale sculpture features smooth curves emerging from two parallel projections. It is a clear example of Brutalist architecture, so in vogue in the seventies. In this case he combined transparent sections with opaque ones, while eschewing any balanced compositional harmony. It now stands between the bus station and the area taken up by bars and other leisure facilities.
The Chiesa Madre
in 1970 Ludovico Quaroni was commissioned to design Gibellina’s parish church on a hilltop. The geometry of the church is novel, not only owing to the layout of the building and its relationship to its surroundings but on account of the language in its architectural forms. The various functional areas are distributed in a box with a 50-metre-square base sub-divided into modules and sub-modules, while the symbolical and geometrical centre of the monument is a great smooth cement sphere bearing reference to the sacred.
The Piazza del Municipio and the Civic Tower
The town square is surrounded by a colonnade designed by Vittorio Gregotti and Giuseppe Samonà, the walls of which were decorated with ceramics by Carla Accardi. Edging the perimeter of the square stand some marvellous white metal sculptures of characters from the work, Oedipus Rex, made by Pietro Consagra, with others by Mimmo Rotella, and the so-called Civic Tower designed by Alessandro Mendini. Four times a day, a blend of sounds with reminiscences of everyday life in the old Gibellina can be heard from this tower.
The Square System
This is actually a matrix of closed architectural squares designed by Franco Purini and Laura Thermes. Enclosed within this System are the Piazza Rivolta del 26 giugno 1937, Piazza Fasci dei Lavoratori, Piazza Monti di Gibellina, Piazza Autonomia Siciliana and Piazza Passo Portella delle Ginestre.
The Civic Museum of Contemporary Art
Gibellina’s contemporary art collection was created from contributions by Italy’s leading artists, and others of international acclaim.
The first to chip in were the Sicilians – Pietro Consagra, Carla Accardi and Emilio Isgrò. Ever since its inauguration in 1980, the Gibellina Museum has been endowed with over 1,800 artworks, notably original paintings, illustrations and sculptures. Most are housed inside the building, but some are dotted about the town streets, where they form a complement to the urban architecture. The bulk of the museum’s exhibition space is taken up by the collection, but there is a room dedicated to Mario Schifano, while another open-air area is given over to artistic and architectural mock-ups.
Join us on a trip to this unique spot in the world. Check out our flights here.
Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
Images by Tiberio Frascari, Giulio Nepi, Antonella Profeta
more infoFrom Beach To Beach Along the Camí de Cavalls
Why deny it – one of the main reasons for going to Menorca, albeit not the only one, is its magnificent beaches. They come in all sizes and shapes, suited to all tastes. Some have fine white sand and crystal-clear waters; others, reddish sand, surrounded by pine forests, while still others take the form of comparatively inaccessible, secluded coves. Some are for day-tripping with the kids; others, for the more adventurous…
An alternative way of roaming this small piece of the Mediterranean to seek out its beaches is by hiking along the footpath known as the Camí de Cavalls (Horse Trail), a route that encircles the island and enables ramblers to rim Menorca from tip to toe while taking in spectacular, ever-changing views from one stretch of the coastline to the next. Along this 185-kilometre route you will come across all types of beaches, as well as pasturelands and cultivated land, beautiful, refreshing pine forests, cliffs topped by ever-vigilant lighthouses, old watchtowers, urban precincts and, more importantly, all the magic you can imagine.
The origins of the Camí de Cavalls are hazy. What we do know, however, is that some stretches of the trail were already in use in the 14th century and that the need to defend the island from pirates and possible invasions led to the construction of defensive towers at strategic points, and to the building of a road that would encircle and connect the whole island. It fell into disuse in the 20th century and marked deterioration set in. However, following the enactment of the “Camí de Cavalls Law” in the year 2000, the footpath was repaired, restored and signposted, turning it into a veritable landmark for tourists and locals alike, as from there Menorca can be enjoyed in all its splendour and scenic variety.
The best time of year to venture along the trail is in spring or autumn, when the temperatures are milder and the route is less crowded. It is best negotiated on foot, although there are many stretches which can be comfortably covered by bicycle or on horseback, a tribute to the animal that gave the trail its name. Whatever way you undertake the trip, there are a number of basic recommendations you should follow, like wearing a hat to protect against the sun, or taking sufficient food and water with you, as not all beaches and coves you encounter along the way have a beach hut where you can refuel and, when you do find them, they are likely to be closed if you’re hiking off season.
The Camí de Cavalls is divided into 20 stages. Those in the north are more difficult to negotiate as the terrain is more arid, while the southern legs are more suitable for a family outing.
Stage 1: Mahón-Es Grau
Duration: 3 h 30 min, Distance: 10 km, Difficulty: Medium
Stage 2: Es Grau-Favàritx
Duration: 3 h 30 min, Distance: 8.6 km, Difficulty: Medium
Stage 3: Favàritx-Arenal d’en Castell
Duration: 5 h, Distance: 13.6 km, Difficulty: Medium
Stage 4: Arenal d’en Castell-Cala Tirant
Duration: 4 h, Distance: 10.8 km, Difficulty: Low
Stage 5: Cala Tirant-Binimel·là
Duration: 4 h, Distance: 9.6 km, Difficulty: Medium
Stage 6: Binimel·là-Els Alocs
Duration: 5 h, Distance: 8.9 km, Difficulty: High
Stage 7: Els Alocs-Algaiarens
Duration: 4 h 30 min, Distance: 9.7 km, Difficulty: Medium
Stage 8: Algaiarens-Cala Morell
Duration: 2 h 10 min, Distance: 5.4 km, Difficulty: Medium
Stage 9: Cala Morell-Punta Nati
Duration: 3 h, Distance: 7 km, Difficulty: Low
Stage 10: Punta Nati-Ciudadela
Duration: 4 h, Distance: 10.5 km, Difficulty: Low
Stage 11: Ciudadela-Punta de Artrutx
Duration: 5 h, Distance: 13.2 km, Difficulty: Low
Stage 12: Punta de Artrutx-Cala en Turqueta
Duration: 5 h, Distance: 13.3 km, Difficulty: Medium
Stage 13: Cala en Turqueta-Cala Galdana
Duration: 2 h 30 min, Distance: 6.4 km, Difficulty: Low
Stage 14: Cala Galdana-Sant Tomàs
Duration: 4 h 30 min, Distance: 10.8 km, Difficulty: Medium
Stage 15: Sant Tomàs-Son Bou
Duration: 2 h 30 min, Distance: 6.4 km, Difficulty: Low
Stage 16: Son Bou-Cala en Porter
Duration: 3 h 30 min, Distance: 8 km, Difficulty: Medium
Stage 17: Cala en Porter-Binisafúller
Duration: 4 h 30 min, Distance: 11.8 km, Difficulty: Low
Stage 18: Binisafúller-Punta Prima
Duration: 3 h 30 min, Distance: 8.1 km, Difficulty: Low
Stage 19: Punta Prima-Cala de Sant Esteve
Duration: 2 h 40 min, Distance: 7.3 km, Difficulty: Low
Stage 20: Cala de Sant Esteve-Mahón
Duration: 2 h 20 min, Distance: 6 km, Difficulty: Low
After learning about this valuable part of Menorca’s historical and cultural heritage, all that’s left is to book your Vueling and experience it for yourself!
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by Franco Vannini
more infoTangier – A Journey of Inspiration
Some destinations attract visitors for their museums; others, for their beaches or mountains, for the energy they give off or, simply, because they are fashionable. In the case of Tangier, the journey is inevitably related to the inspiration and yearnings for the past which it harbours like some muse of the arts. Myriad artists and scholars have passed through that city, located on the northern tip of Morocco, and have become spellbound by its charms.
The Light and Colour of Tangier
The first artist to be captivated by Tangier was the French painter, Eugène Delacroix. In 1832 he journeyed there as part of a diplomatic mission and ended up being seduced by its light and colour, as masterfully portrayed in such paintings as Jewish Wedding in Morocco.
The Spanish painter, Mariano Fortuny, who was familiar with Delacroix’s production, also went to Tangier in search of that magic, which infused a host of sketches and notes for his Orientalist works.
Henri Matisse reached Tangier in 1912. There, not only did he encounter “the landscapes of Morocco just as Delacroix had depicted them in his paintings”, as he himself stated, but he also discovered a new palette of colours for his own works. He took up lodgings in room 35 of the extant Grand Hotel Villa de France, where he painted such works as Window at Tangier.
Paul Bowles, Tangier and the Beat Generation
Tangier became a veritable beacon for writers, particularly in the 1950s and part of the 1960s. And, no wonder, as from 1923 to 1956 the city was a demilitarised zone under joint administration by various countries. This measure was implemented on account of its strategic position in the Strait of Gibraltar and the ensuing international disputes over its control. Known as the Tangier International Zone, it became a place of passage for many people – diplomats, adventurers, artists, spies and others. Functioning as “everyone’s city” or, if you will, “no man’s city”, it enjoyed an unusual status as a place of freedom and tolerance which would be difficult to find elsewhere.
One of the best known regulars in the city was the writer and composer, Paul Bowles, who arrived in Tangier in 1947 and was completely swept off his feet by its charms. It was there that he wrote his first novel, The Sheltering Sky, so masterfully ported to the cinema by the director, Bernardo Bertolucci. Then ensued the arrival of other creative figures, including Truman Capote, Tennessee Williams and Francis Bacon. And, he was also instrumental in spawning the Beat Generation – William Burroughs, Allen Ginsberg and Jack Kerouac, who succumbed to the allure of a place where they could give free rein to their imagination and – there’s no denying it – their vices, too.
Tangier Today
What remains of all that past now? While a lot of water has flowed under the bridge since then, and the city is in the throes of a process of renewal, the spots which resonate of those artists are still standing.
A visit to the Grand Socco provides a suitable introduction to the city. Its pleasant ambience and colourfulness are guaranteed, as is your likelihood of (literally) getting lost in its streets. You will eventually end up willy-nilly in the Petit Socco, a square in the heart of the Medina, packed with cafés and restaurants. Another square, the Place de France, is also a must-see, as it is the site of the Grand Café de Paris, with a history of its own. This is where our protagonists spent countless hours chatting and observing the passers-by.
The Fondation Lorin, housed in a synagogue, boasts a fine collection of photographs, documents and posters that give you a good idea of what Tangier was like in the first half of the 20th century. Then there is the Tangier American Legation Museum, a visit not to be missed by enthusiasts of Paul Bowles as it features a section dedicated to the writer which displays photos, portraits and Moroccan musical scores which he recorded himself.
The Villa Muniria – now reconditioned as the Hotel El-Muniria (1, Rue Magellan) – was the favourite lodgings of the Beat Generation. Tennessee Williams and the Rolling Stones themselves were counted among the guests that stayed there. It was there, too, in room number 9, that William Burroughs wrote his seminal work, Naked Lunch.
Another landmark of literary Tangier is the Librairie des Colonnes (54, Boulevard Pasteur). It was a meeting place for writers and artists, while nowadays it continues to host cultural activities.
Like the writers and artists of yesteryear, allow yourself to succumb to the charms of this inspiring city and plan your trip with Vueling!
Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
Images by Dieter Weinelt, Andrzej Wójtowicz
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Calle Feria Market route
Seville is home to a special colour, wonderful people, genuine bars and well kept secrets like the Market in calle Feria. Seville is brimming with magic, charm, spirit and Andalusian pride like very few other Mediterranean cities. Everyone who lives there feels very proud to be Sevillian and would never swap their city for any other. It doesn’t matter if you are a native of Seville or have just arrived from another part of the world, the important thing is to be Sevillian, to feel like a Sevillian and to die a Sevillian.
Let’s discover a part of Seville recommended to us by the festival organisers Territorios Sevilla, the Seville of the Encarnación district, the Market in calle Feria.
We start in the Plaza de la Encarnación, known locally as “plaza de la seta” (mushroom square).
On the day we visited and just like in many other squares in other Spanish cities, a silent and peaceful protest was taking place by the so-called 15-M movement. The Sevillians are proud of this square to which they have given the nickname ‘la plaza de la seta’ and it is the gateway to the Encarnación district. We head to the market in calle Feria because Maider from Territorios Sevilla has recommended it as the perfect spot to savour the local tapas. The area is very well known amongst Seville’s local population and it is off the usual beaten tourist tracks.
2. Reinas
As we head in the direction of the market, we stumble across a place that forces us to make a stop. The place in question is called Reinas and has a very stylish type of wine cellar. We chat with Antonio who tells us a little bit about the philosophy of Reinas. The general concept is to suggest good wines and offer cold dishes that complement the wine being recommended. At Reinas, it is the wine that defines the food – not the other way around. Antonio is a lover of wine and food and it could be said he belongs to the good living club.
Continuing along the same street a bit further on we come across a book shop specialising in art: Un Gato en Bicicleta.
It seems like we have embarked on a journey down the perfect street, two special places within metres of each other. This is confirmed when just a little way further down the street we find Botellas y Latas and between the owner Carlos and his local Sevillian customers, we learn about the marvels of the place: Botellas y Latas is another of Seville’s hidden treasures definitely worth a visit.
Between the warmth of the Sevillian people and the heat of the sun, a stop for a cool beer en route to the calle Feria Market is an absolute must. Casa Vizcaíno is the ideal spot to try an Andalusian beer. The place is spectacular with its carpet of peanut shells on the floor, thus making it as one of those highly recommendable, traditional bars to be found in the Andalusian capital.
Finally we arrive at the Calle Feria Market and it seems like we have found the perfect location to eat in Seville. Good food, warm people, welcoming surroundings, informal and grilled sardines to die for. Worth mentioning is the stall we had something to eat at, the Bar La Cantina with its exquisite food, friendly service, wonderful terrace and the lovely warm ambience among its clientele.
The sun beats down and following the directions given to us by the locals, we return to the plaza de la Encarnación by a different route where we discover more authentic shops in the Andalusian capital, a good old fashioned chocolate shop called El Comercio and a charming square called la plaza del Pan where you can sit in the shade and enjoy a good cup of coffee.
Image: Liu Yu Cheng
Why not take a trip to Sevilla? Have a look at our flights here!
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