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The Rolling Stones London

Every time you visit London you discover something new. The city is endless and has multiple facets, and one of these is musical. Indeed, the capital of Britain has also been that of pop and rock music practically since their inception. The first big rock’n’roll clubs emerged there and it was in that ambience of leather jackets and limitless hairpieces that The Rolling Stones came into being. Even today, the band still wears their crown as the kings of planetary rock. Homing in on this comprehensive retrospective, which has taken over the nine rooms in the Saatchi Gallery, My Vueling City has authored a review of The Stones’ London. “It’s only rock and roll but I like it!”

A Penchant for The Rolling Stones

Needless to say, The Rolling Stones are eternal. For most of us, they have always been there, periodically engaged in marathon tours and always releasing records with “made in Hollywood” premieres and no lack of pyrotechnics to boot. Much has been said about the longevity of the (now) quartet – whether they have had hemodialysis or made a pact with the devil. But, it matters little. What really matters is that they are undisputedly the most important band in the history of rock. That is why any event relating to them turns out to be a not-to-be-missed show. Which also applies to this exhibition, entitled Exhibitionism, which has been three years in the making and features over 500 artefacts associated with the group. It is a veritable mega-exhibition, closely meshed with the Rolling Stones’ geartrain and running on a heady budget – the whole setup has cost a trifling 5.7 million dollars!

Exhibitionism or Fetishism?

We’re not sure whether the title quite fits the nature of the exhibition. We were more forcefully struck by it fetishistic bent. At any rate, whether you’re a Stones fan or merely curious, the exhibition is well worth seeing. It is hosted in the Saatchi Gallery, a handsome mansion usually given over to modern art located in the illustrious district of Chelsea.

The exhibition traces the group’s career. In addition to artefacts, the various galleries also feature life-size replicas of the group’s dressing rooms, and even of the first flat they shared. There is also a reproduction of a recording studio from those times. You can live through a 3D experience of their concerts, too, based on a recording of the one they gave in Hyde Park in 2013. The exhibition layout adheres to the traditional museum plan, with countless objects – like old suits – of which the standout feature is the legendary white they wore at the Hyde Park concert held in July 1969 in memory of Brian Jones. And guitars, of course, are singled out as a special feature. Included is the hand-painted Gibson Les Paul which Richards played from 1966 to 1970. There are also films curated by Martin Scorsese, and unpublished recordings.

The Satanic Majesties’ London

While in London, we recommend you visit some of the group’s legendary venues. See how the band’s influence still resonates in the city.

1. The First Flat

Located in Chelsea itself, just a short walk from the Saatchi Gallery, is the first flat of the original core of The Rolling Stones, shared by Mick Jagger, Keith Richards and Brian Jones. In 1962, three boys who dreamed of being as great as The Beatles lived there, at 102 Edith Grove.

2. Pub Bricklayers

Located in Soho, the Bricklayer Arms was a pub that hosted performances every night. It was located at 7 Broadwick Street and it was there that good old Charlie Watts joined the group. The drummer, who would never leave the band, was much older than the rest of them and was a seasoned player on the jazz circuit. The pub is now the record shop, Sounds of the Universe.

3. The Ealing Jazz Club

Inaugurated in January 1969, it soon became the headquarters of the best blues ever heard in London. It was here that the cream of British rock took their first steps, encompassing a whole generation of such standout figures as Eric Clapton, Jimmy Page, Pete Townsend and Keith Moon. And it was here that Keith Richards and Mick Jagger first saw Brian Jones performing. That was a long time ago; specifically, on 7 April 1962. You will find it at 42A Ealing Broadway.

4. Regent Sounds and Legendary Denmark Street

Located in Soho, these legendary studios witnessed The Rolling Stones’ recording sessions in 1963, including the track, Not Fade Away, which catapulted them to fame in their early period. A stroll along Denmark Street is something of an experience. Nowadays you will come across countless musical instruments shops, on a street that dates from 1867 and still features some buildings from those times.

5. New Crawdaddy Club

The New Crawdaddy Club, in Richmond, opened in 1962. A year later, in February 1963, after their first concert, The Rolling Stones became the resident band, playing twice a week. It was at that time that they entered the hit parade in style with Come On, and the public response was so great that the bar had to move to larger premises. It is currently located on Harding Elms Road, Essex and, needless to say, still hosts good concerts.

6. Sticky Fingers

After the tough haul along the route studded with emblematic Stones venues, the time comes for building up one’s strength at an eatery which is practically a Rolling Stones museum. This is the Sticky Fingers Restaurant, owned by the former Stone, Bill Wyman, who was The Rolling Stones bassist from 1962 to 1993. We recommend the Bacon Burger: 170 g patty, Monterey Jack cheese, tomato, lettuce, red onion, pickles, bacon and pickled mayonnaise, bathed in BBQ sauce and served with a pasta and coleslaw salad, four cheeses and croutons.

Stones rock is still alive in London. Come and discover it – check out our flights here.

Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Images by Galería SaatchiRestaurante Sticky Fingers, Visit Britain, Ealing Jazz Club

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7 Café Terraces in Tangier

Truman Capote wrote of Tangier: “Almost everything in Tangier is unusual. Before coming here you should do three things – be inoculated for typhoid, withdraw your savings from the bank, say goodbye to your friends…” Capote was there in the summer of 1949, but Tangier still holds out that invisible but very real lure which the author of Breakfast at Tiffany’s (1958) and In Cold Blood (1965) observed. “Tangier is a basin that holds you, a timeless place; the days slide by less noticed than foam in a waterfall.” That is how the celebrated American writer accounts for so many travellers – artists, writers, bohemians – landing in Tangier for a short holiday and then deciding to settle there indefinitely, simply “letting the years go by”. That is what today’s route is about – sitting back on one of the terraces and watching the city bustle unfold.

At the Top of the Kasbah

1. Breakfast at Tiffany’s, but at La Maison Blanche Riad-Hotel

We can’t think of any better way to start the day in Tangier than by breakfasting on the panoramic terrace of La Maison Blanche Riad-Hotel, located at the top of the Kasbah, alongside the main gate to the erstwhile fortress. After spending a peaceful night in one of their nine rooms – each one with its own décor, dedicated to artists who helped turn Tangier into a fascinating, cosmopolitan place (Paul Bowles, Juan Goytisolo, etc.) – you will witness first-hand the leisurely awakening of the city. Enjoy the light that so impressed Matisse, the sea and the multi-coloured rooftops. Price per room: from 100 to 150 euros, breakfast included.

The Heart of the Medina

Once you feel rested and well fed, it’s time to wander through the Medina. Whichever way you enter, within two minutes you get hopelessly lost in the chaotic maze of alleyways, those tunnels with coloured walls where no shaft of sunlight ever penetrates but which are always filled with light. Both sides of the pleasant grotto are lined with all kinds of workshops and businesses. Cobblers, basket-makers, jewellers, dairies, barber shops, spiceries… The toing and froing of people and goods is constant. Everything gets conveyed in hand-carts, as cars wouldn’t fit in these narrow streets. The agreeable chaos is augmented by hawkers of fruit, fish, mint, potatoes, broad beans, nougat, brick-a-brac, etc. But, the Medina is also peopled by leisurely Tangerines who practise the healthy pastime of sitting at a terrace or in the bright interior salon of a café, and letting time go by.

2, 3 & 4. Tingis, Central and Fuentes… in the Warmth of the Petit Socco

The small but crowded Petit Socco square is ideal for observing one of the nerve centres of Tangier’s Medina. There are various options, but the most typical and recommendable ones include the airy salon and terrace of the Café Tingis, where the time-worn sign claims “everything always fast and fresh”. Similarly, the Café Central, located just opposite, or the balconies of the Café Fuentes, on the upper floor. To get there, your best reference point is the Petit Socco square – officially known as the 9 April 1947 – which is a two minutes’ walk along the Rue Siaghine. On your way, you will catch sight of the facade of the Spanish Catholic Mission, next to the Alcalá department store – “fabrics, novelties…”. This is followed by numerous money-changing booths, shop windows plastered with vintage cameras and a host of jewellery stores.

5. Café Ibn Batouta, in the Heart of the Medina

Somewhat more hidden, but more authentic, is the Café Ibn Batouta, located in the heart of the Medina. It takes up several floors, although regulars hang out on the first floor where they often watch football matches on the television. At the top of the narrow staircase you suddenly come onto a split-level terrace where the youngsters of Tangier meet to drink tea, chat and smoke, with the sky as their only witness. From here, the sea is not visible, but you do look out over a beehive of rooftops and roof terraces bedecked with satellite dishes and laundry hanging on the lines. Neither is it one of the city’s most comfortable joints, but indeed one of the most genuine. The affordable prices – a large glass of mint tea costs just 6 dh – draw many students to the city. Next to the small bar counter where the tea is made hangs a photo of the actor, Matt Damon, of The Bourne Ultimatum fame. Regulars enjoy telling new customers how the scenes where the star jumps between buildings, from one balcony to the next, was filmed here.

Atlantic Views

6. Café Hafa, Paul Bowles’ Favourite

The staggered terrace of the Café Hafa is unique. Overlooking the ocean, on the top of a cliff, it is absolutely always jam-packed with youngsters drinking tea, smoking and playing table games. Opened in 1921, it was the favourite of Paul Bowles, and the Rolling Stones also came here, among other celebrities. The tea is tasty and cheap – less than 1 euro – and, although the plastic furniture detracts from the café’s charm, it is ideal for having a restful break, reading, chatting and gazing out over the blue horizon.

Getting there is a cinch – you leave the Kasbah by the main gate next to La Maison Blanche and take the street that goes up to the Phoenician necropolis, a popular spot among Tangerines, who often spend the afternoon there. Just beyond it, a bright alleyway where young men mill around buying and selling loose cigarettes leads to the Café Hafa, where you can also grab a bite of one of the local snacks.

In the Coolth of the Kasbah

7. Morocco Café – Peace in the Shade of a Centenary Rubber Plant

Located just 20 metres from the main gate into the Kasbah, the quiet terrace of the Morocco Café is ideal for having some tea or any drink and even ordering the dish of the day, a salad, a quiche, etc. All the food is home made. The café is somewhat more upscale than average and prices are more like those on the opposite side of the Gibraltar Strait. For instance tea – served in a small teapot – costs 18 dh. It opens at 9 in the morning, except on Mondays, which is their day off. The building also houses the Morocco Club, a piano bar where by night you can enjoy good music and excellent cocktails in a pleasant atmosphere.

Text and images by Sergio Fernández Tolosa (Con un par de ruedas) for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

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Harry Potter and Edimburgh

Speaking of Harry Potter and Edinburgh recalls inevitably the image of a young JK Rowling huddled in the corner of a coffee, drawing on the paper his imagined universe as time flies and steaming coffee cup empties slowly. Although it is difficult to know to what extent, it is undeniable that Rowling was inspired by the scenery of the Scottish capital in order to populate his world of characters and fantastic places, as itwas in Edinburgh where the first wizard’s adventures took form in the early 90 where Rowling ended the last book in the series in 2007. Many fans of Harry move to the city to follow the first steps of a child who one day received a letter that would change his life.

Beginnings

In 1994, Rowling and her young daughter, still a baby, moved to Edinburgh from Portugal, where she worked as an English teacher. When she arrived in Scotland, the idea of Harry Potter spent years in the making. Rowling had already written the first chapters of the first book in the series, “Harry Potter and the Philosophical Stone.”

Cafes

During the winter of 1994, Rowling started to frequent several cafes in town, where she spent hours writing in a notebook while her daughter was dozing peacefully beside her after walking her around the streets of Edinburgh.

In the beginning, Rowling went to a cafe today disappeared, Nicholson’s Café, in Nicholson Street. Counts the history that, for the price of a coffee, she was allowed to spend the whole evening writing on site. Today another cafe, Spoon,takes its place.

The Elephant House , on George IV Bridge is the cafe that more closely relate to Rowling.Although in an inscription and a drawing on the glass The Elephant House claims to be “the birthplace of Harry Potter ‘, the fact is that did not open until 1995, and by then the first book in the series progressed fluently. But it is true that the author wrote many evenings at a back table in the cafe, by the window, whose splendid views over the castle and Greyfriars Cemetery inspired her to build the story. Throughout the years, fans of the series have filled the walls of the toilettes at The Elephant House of entries:

Rowling went on visiting the cafes of the city long after her books became a bestseller, but while writing the fourth volume, “Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire”, her growing fame forced her to give up this practice.

Greyfriars Graveyard

It is said that Greyfriars cemetery, one of the best known in Edinburgh because of the alleged apparitions by odd dwellers from beyond and the legend of Bobby the Dog, inspired the mythic and dreary graveyard scene from “Harry Potter and the Goblet of Fire”, in which Voldemort returns to its physical shape and fights a duel with Harry.

There are two places not to miss in this cemetery. First one is the grave of William McGonagall, a writer who’s been awarded the title of worst poet in British history. It is rumoured that the name of Professor Minerva McGonagall comes from here as Rowling noted it was a curious contrast between this minor poet and a brilliant woman as the teacher. The second intesresting place is a tombstone in which lie a father and a son called Thomas Riddell. In English books, Voldemort’s real name is Tom Marvolo Riddle and although written differently, father and grandfather “who must not be named “ also shared the name of Tom/Thomas, and Harry visit their graves in novels

George Heriot’s School

Quite close to Greyfriars cemetery stands the stunning Gothic building of George Heriot’s School, whose founder, George Heriot, planned as a schoolwhere orphans received free education. Today is a prestigious private school, and Rowling said she was inspired by it to create the unforgettable Hogwarts. In fact, students at George Heriot’s School are divided into four houses, as the wizards of Hogwarts: Lauriston (marked by the green color), Greyfriars (white), Raeburn (red) and Castle (blue) . Slytherin, Hufflepuff, Gryffindor and Ravenclaw? During the course, each student aspires to earn points for their respective house, which are achieved thanks to a good academic performance, among others things. Usually the school can not be accessed, but sometimes opens its doors in days like the Open Doors Day.

Balmoral Hotel

While the first books of Harry Potter were born in humble cafes, Rowling wrote the last lines of the novel that closes the series in a luxury room in Balmoral Hotel, one of the most prestigious and expensive in the city. She was staying in Suite 552 while finishing the book and, when completed, let the following words written on a marble bust, “On January 11th, 2007, JK Rowling finished writing Harry Potter and the Deathly Hallows’ in this room. ”

Other places

There are many other parts of the city somehow related to the author of Harry Potter’s saga. For example, just before the publication of “Harry Potter and the Half-Blood Prince”, a draw was called and 70 children, who were winners, enjoyed a weekend in the castle of Edinburgh, dressed in Hogwarts for the occasion. Rowling met children who came to the castle in carriages, and answered their questions, gave them signed copies of the new book and invited them to various events and banquets.

Furthermore, it is believed that Rowling created the lively Diagon Alley, where magicians come to stock up on all the material needed, inspired by a popular and colorful street in Edinburgh, Victoria Street, which is also packed with shops, such as a popular joke shop in the style of the Weasleys’ Wizard Wheezes

It is also said that J.K. Rowling based the Sorting Hat, a hat of thousands years old that young wizards get on arrival at Hogwarts to have a house assigned, in a tradition that takes place in the graduation ceremony of the University of Edinburg , in which the students rise up the stage one by one as the Provost give them a knock with that historic hat in the head.

In one corner of the Edinburgh City Chambers on the Royal Mile, hands belonging to outstanding personalities of the city are immortalized, and JK Rowling was the second to receive this honor, after writer Ian Rankin. Today, Rowling still resides in Edinburgh most of the time, so if you’re in the series, keep your eyes open, because she might be seen around town.

If you walk a Saturday through the park of the Meadows, you will find football games, rugby … and Quidditch trainings! Although it began as a fictional sport , soon it became real and for years many American and British universities have their own team. One of the features is that is played on a broom, but, unlike the books, not flying.

Tours

Most tours of Edinburgh mentioned the Harry Potter tour at some point, and there is also a specialized tour Magician Potter, which, despite being a nice route that will provide information and take you to the sites listed above, does not give access to any private building or having a high added value with respect to a ride that you yourself designed for you by the center (see map for details).

Picture by Eiscir 

By Angie from Más Edimburgo 

Why not take a trip to Edinburgh? Have a look at our flights here!

 

 

 

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Downtown Brussels

Brussels is the heart of Europe, the birthplace of Art Nouveau, the comic capital of the world and the headquarters for numerous EU institutions. A stroll around Brussels will enable us to discover its marvellous architecture, enchanting nooks and crannies and the typical gastronomical delights from the city, such as the chocolate, the beer or the mussels.

The centre of Brussels is home to two charming taverns that can be found on side streets off the busy Rue du Marché aux Herbes. The first is À l’image de Notre Dame, a place with traditional décor and a cosy ‘popular beer bar’ atmosphere that will transport you back in time.

Another of the taverns to be found near the Marché aux Herbes is the Toone Marionette Theater, a place full of history and owned by a popular puppet master dynasty. It comprises a typical tavern, a puppet museum and a small theatre with shows that are as popular with the locals as with the tourists.

The Saint Hubert Galleries link the area around the Monnaie Theatre with the Grand Place. They are a passageway between two worlds, linking a more modern Brussels to the most historical Brussels. The place is home to luxurious boutiques, traditional sweet shops, magnificent bookshops, avant-garde galleries and cafés.

Right next to the exit from the Galeries Royales, we will find the À La Mort Subite restaurant – a place with hundreds of years of history where one can enjoy the namesake beer as well as many others. The name comes from a 19th Century game of dice that the employees used to play during their break. This is one of the most traditional places in the city with long wooden benches, high ceilings and a collection of old mirrors. The thing to do here is try the Cherry or Kirk beers with a bit of cheese or one of their toasted snacks.

Steering clear of the bars around the edge of the Grand Place (which are mainly focused on tourist hunting and where the waiters try to catch you on the fly so you sit down to enjoy their typical and expensive mussels with chips), you will soon arrive at the Impasse de la Fidélité – the side street where you’ll findDelirium Tremens, one of the most famous places in Brussels and a paradise for all beer lovers. It is an enormous underground basement that is decorated in a very rustic fashion with barrels and flags on the ceilings. They serve hundreds and hundreds of different brands, which come in all different colours, aromas and flavours, each one served in a different glass that is especially designed to enhance the beer in question.

When leaving, don’t forget to visit the Jeanneke Pis fountain (Peeing Girl) at the end of the street. This is the female equivalent of the Manneken Pis, the most representative symbol of the city.

The time has come to visit the Grand Place, the main square in Brussels and considered one of the most beautiful in the world. It has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1998 and houses a large number of historic buildings, such as the Town Hall (Gothic in style and situated in the middle), the Cathedral of Saint Michael and Saint Gudula and the Royal Castle of Laeken (with its large greenhouses). Around the square, it is possible to see traces of the old city and an architectural style known locally as the ‘Spanish style’ due to the fact that the main historic buildings in the Flemish style date back to a time when what is now Belgium (then Flanders) was one of the provinces controlled by the empire ruled by Carlos V.

Moving on, we come to Le Roi des Belges, a modern café at 34 Rue Jules Van Praet where having a quick breakfast or lunch becomes a delightful experience. Pleasant music at the right volume, meticulous service and a selection of delicious and healthy dishes, such as salads, quiches and lasagne, make it the perfect place to stop for a bite to eat.

However, one of the most popular and central places in Brussels for enjoying small fish dishes is Mer du Nord. A few tall tables where you can stand up to eat in the square, just behind the Saint Catherine Church, mean you can stop and try the typical baby prawn croquettes, the delicious fish soup or the typical mussels. Did you know that the best mussels are eaten during those months that contain the letter ‘R’, such as December, January, February and March?

Surrounded by the exclusive shellfish restaurants of the Santa Catherine district a delicious gourmet hamburger restaurant called Ellis Gourmet Burger can be found.

These shellfish restaurants fill up with both locals and tourists at dinner time for a meal of exquisite quality. But if your budget won’t stretch to a table on one of their terraces, one of these enormous hamburgers will fill you up for between € 8 and € 10. You also have the option to order a trio of mini-hamburgers for € 13 in order to try the various specialities all in one sitting.

If you keep walking through the Place Sainte Catherine, you’ll find the Micro Market Marché culture centre and a bar-restaurant inside called Via Via Café where they serve international food and organic drinks. This centre organises parties, DJ sessions, concerts, screenings and seasonal exhibitions. It is a meeting place for young creators and lovers of more alternative art.

And if you prefer somewhere with more of a rock music atmosphere and American-style meat dishes, Le Corbeau is the place for you. Located on Rue Saint-Michel, it can be found in what was once one of the oldest breweries in Brussels.

One of the greatest attractions in Brussels are the journeys to be had along the side streets full of comic wall art. Brussels is the comic capital of the world and is the birthplace of such legendary characters as Tintin, Lucky Luke, Spirou and the Smurfs. One of the more fun activities to be enjoyed in Belgium is to discover the large-scale reproductions of elements and pages from comics that you can find on any street corner. The idea began in 1991 as a way to renovate old buildings but has now become an identifying symbol of the city.

We took it as a bit of fun and took photographs of the ones we encountered on our visit but there is an entire route to be followed that should not be missed by any lover of Art Nouveau.

Finally, we recommend you take the train to Gantes for a day trip. Gantes is the Flemish city with the largest number of historic buildings, a strong cultural vibe and a privileged location between Bruges and Brussels – 50 km from each. The city has five abbeys, three convents and eighteen museums, as well as numerous other attractions that are all concentrated in the central district.

 

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