A city underground. This idea was developed by Emir Kusturica – filmmaker born in Bosnia, raised on Islam, later converted to Christianity and self-proclaimed Serbian – in the movie Underground (1995), which showed the eventful recent history of the former Yugoslavia in a tragicomic point of view, with the protagonists create their own world underground to protect their interests, forgetting about the events above the ground. This is some kind of Plato’s cave where they live isolated while about the Nazis invade the territory, later Tito regime during the Cold War and finally the Yugoslavian war.

Located strategically between western and eastern territories, at the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers and by the Adriatic, Aegean and Black seas, probably is the European city that has been devastated and rebuilt again the most. Serbian capital has been occupied about 38 times in the past 300 years. Austrians, Serbians and Germans have created all kind of structures in the territory that Belgrade occupies.

The insides - a tangle of tunnels, shafts, caves and bunkers - have always been there, preserved during all these wars and also created because of them. Most of the historical center is on archaeological sites and hundreds of meters of tunnels were built for many reasons, during thousands of years.

Since 2012, some of these secrets can be revealed in Belgrade - even most of them still remain closed to the public – in a trip through subterranean routes. Total, there are about 140 structures certified officially nowadays, which are allowed to be visited.

But for now is almost impossible to know how many elements can be found underground. One person that knows this well is Zoran Nikolic, cowriter of Beograd ispod Beograda (‘Belgrade under Belgrade’) where he reveals the secrets that he now also shows as specialized guide around this area.

Under the library in Belgrade

By the start of Knez Mihailova street the City Library can be found, located in a building that used to be the most famous hotel in Belgrade. In the underground floors there is the Roman room, with well-conserved rests of an old fortress and a collection of Roman sculptures and graves. The room is used for lectures, music concerts and other cultural events.

Under the Belgrade fortress

Kalemegdan, the great Fortress of Belgrade, is one of the seven fortifications that stand by the Danube, along Serbia and at the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers. Here is where, according to the legend, Attila was buried. The fortress along to the Kalemegdan Park, become the most relevant historic-cultural complex in Belgrade.

Under the ground there is Barutana cave, a former Austrian military warehouse now used as archaeological museum, including pieces from Singidunum, the antique Roman city that used to be where Belgrade is now, including sarcophagi, tombstones and altars.

Bellow the park there is also a fascinating bunker, from the last days of the Soviet Union. Josip Broz Tito, Yugoslavian head of state, wanted to built a bunker after World War II to protect Belgrade of a possible Russian invasion.

Near the fortress, artificial caves where used as food warehouses. Nowadays, restaurants and cellars are located here, where there is never a need for air-conditioned.

Under Tašmajdan park

One of the most significant parts of the route is under the centric park of Tasmajdan, right bellow the Serbian Parliament. Bellow asphalt and concrete layers there are caves built by the Romans that were used centuries after for many purposes: during the Great War they were a warehouse for bombs and during World War II they were used as hidden headquarters by the Germans.

Picture from wikimapia.org

A place well worth discovering! Check out our flights here.

It might seem small, but you won’t get through Formentera in a couple of days. Or even in four or five. A sideline for some, and an essential destination for many, Formentera has a really big variety of quality culinary offerings, as well as being an idyllic spot for ambling around, and where you can literally lose track of time. In short, the island can be enjoyed in bites – varied, enticing and affordable. Here, then, are some proposals to satisfy your appetite via a range of different culinary offerings.

Ensalada Payesa

This is the island’s most emblematic dish. A simple, light and tasty salad, it includes fish dried in the island’s sun and sea breeze. Ideal for wetting your appetite. Served in an earthenware bowl at Can Forn, a benchmark restaurant for the finest traditional cuisine. For the best home-fried fish at the seaside, you can’t go wrong at Vogamarí, which also serve great croquettes and calamares a la bruta (calamari in their ink).

Rice

This is probably the food featured most on menus at virtually all restaurants on the island. Among the finest there is black rice and soupy rice with lobster at Can Rafalet, a classic on the up and up at Es Caló de Sant Agustí. Its terraces is among the most coveted in town, on account of the spectacular views. For multiple-customer paellas at knockdown prices, head for the Pelayo beach bar, one of the most alternative spots on the island, on Migjorn beach.

Snacks

Nothing better than a good yango, with your feet in the sand, as you wait for the sun to set on the beach at Ses Illetes. The best option, however, is to hop on board Sa Barca de Formentera, sail around the north as far as S’Espalmador, have a nice swim and, on the return trip, stop off alongside the vessel at the Beso Beach Club, a beach bar offering market cuisine and exotic sandwiches crafted by their chef, Carles Abellán.

Pizzas

If you’re surrounded by Italians and still fancy a pizza, the best are to be had at Macondo, in the town of Sant Ferran. Their variety is endless and you are advised to work up an appetite before you go, as the size of their pizzas and other dishes – like pasta – is considerable. Allow yourself to be pleasantly surprised by Macondo and go for the desserts, too, as they are home made. For afters, drop in on the adjacent Fonda Pepe, the centre of the island’s hippy movement, to order a mitjanet (chaser) of gin tonic or pomada.

Fish and Seafood

You will grow weary of seeing places offering seafood and fresh fish. The most select ones are in the area of Ses Illetes but, if you prefer something quieter and more genuine, try the day’s grilled fresh fish at Conxita i Xicu, on La Mola (Avinguda la Mola 36), a former pastry shop. Do have one of their pastries! You could also opt for lobster and fried eggs at the restaurant, Des Arenals, on the beach of the same name. You won’t be disappointed. And, speaking of eggs, neither can you go wrong with the free-range ones at Can Dani, the only Michelin star on the island.

If you can fit a good swig of wine in between so many snacks, the local fare at the Terramoll winery is highly recommended, as is a dusk cocktail at Piratabus.

Where to Sleep

The quaint Hotel Maisy, on Des Arenals beach, is known for its impeccable, family-style service and for its location next to Migjorn beach and the Caló des Mort. Its rooms with a view have been recently refurbished, as have the surroundings of their outside pool. It also has a restaurant and a bicycle hire service to move around the area.

Move it! Make haste and book your flight with Vueling to this wonderful island.

Text by Belén Parra of Gastronomistas

No district of Barcelona has the flavour and personality of Gràcia. The area brings together artists, long-standing neighbours, design and fashion stores and some of the city’s liveliest restaurants and bars. A perennial mix of traditional values and the latest trends, Gràcia is always up with the pulse of the times, yet retains the essence that makes it the favourite haunts of many Barceloners.

As we love strolling leisurely through the area and taking in the atmosphere, we hit the streets to unearth the seven must-visit venues – shops, bars and restaurants – for tapping into the true heartbeat of Gràcia.

Magnesia

Leticia, the owner of Magnesia, draws on the work of local and international artists, showcased in what is one of the best graphic stores in town. The prints rub shoulders with ceramics from the United States, cushions by Shara Porter and jewellery by craftsmen and women from Barcelona. You will be enamoured of this venue and are bound to emerge with something under your arm.

Can Tresó

Located on one of Gràcia’s major thoroughfares, the Can Tresó restaurant can go by unnoticed from the outside. But, once you’ve dined there, you will never forget its presence. The tapas are great – the patatas bravas outstanding – and the signature menu of the day on weekdays is really delicious.

La Mueblerí

This vintage-look store is run by a mother and son. With their finely tuned selection of furniture and other objects, it’s easy to fall for a Scandinavian sideboard, a Vitra table from the 70s or a Manises lamp. What’s more, you can find both designer pieces and other reasonably priced wares to suit all budgets. The premises are spacious and well decorated. Here you breathe closeness, delicateness and good taste, which makes it quite special.

Viblioteca

This is a classic among lovers of cheese, sausage, tartare and good food. Done out in white lines, this restaurant is undoubtedly one of the finest in Barcelona when it comes to discovering new wines and pairing them with a first-class culinary selection. We recommend you talk to Yolanda, the owner, and let her suggest what to order.

Alzira

Mónica is one of the veterans of vintage in the Gràcia district. Her exquisite sense of taste manifests in a combination of industrial and rustic furniture with some designer pieces, all imbued with a Bochic aesthetic, making this a must-visit store for antique hunters in Barcelona. The bright, airy premises include a patio where one could relax for hours, if one had the time. The furniture and decoration section is rounded off by a frankly irresistible area featuring retro brooches.

Bobby Gin

Going out for a drink in Gràcia at night would never be the same without Bobby Gin. This sophisticated bar serves some of the best gin tonics in Barcelona. Care has been lavished on their decor, down to the last detail, with restored antique doors, and vintage and industrial furniture. But, what makes this venue unique is the large selection of premium gins and tonics. If you are hard put to make a choice, the staff – who really know their stuff – will help you decide. And, if you’d like something to nibble on, themini-coques de Llavaneras pastries are a delicacy you should make a point of tasting.

Casa Atlántica

Hand-painted ceramic crockery, wooden miniatures and retro lamps are some of the items you can find in Casa Atlántica. A store-workshop full of charm opened by the fashion designer, Belén Martínez, and the Portuguese interior designer, Lester Barreto. The interior is unmistakeably Atlantic in appearance and is redolent with priceless details and furniture designed by the owners themselves, transporting you from the Mediterranean to the other side of the Peninsula.

Book your Vueling to Barcelona and venture into Gràcia, to be seduced by its charm.

Text by Aleix Palau for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

By Josep Sucarrats from Gastronomistas

The fact that in Lyon you can eat like nowhere else in the world has been known since time immemorial. But it was Curnonsky, a renowned food critic from the early 20th century, who first said it in black and white. In 1925, following the construction of the N-25 road linking Paris to the Mediterranean coast, he set about creating a travel guide for lovers of fine cuisine. In Lyon, Curnonsky discovered foies, cheeses, wines and sweets. He was seduced by the ‘bouchon’ (local version of the famous French bistros) and succumbed to the flavours cooked up by the mères. The mères were women chefs with unrivalled culinary skills. People in Lyon regard them as the heart and soul of local cuisine.

The city’s culinary legend was born and there was no going back. The fusion of great produce and even greater chefs gave substance to Lyon’s status as an international capital of good food. This fact was ultimately driven home by a top chef famous the world over: Paul Bocuse.

Today, the mark left by of Paul Bocuse, his imposing countenance, tall white chef’s hat and authoritative look can still be found all around Lyon. In his four restaurants, in the photos of market stalls in Les Halles where he gets supplies – did we say Les Halles? Let’s get it right: a couple of months ago, it was renamed Les Halles Paul Bocuse— or in the dreams of anyone from Lyon who has yet to visit his legendary L’Auberge de Pont de Collognes.

Very soon, from 6 to 9 December, the capital of the Rhone-Alpes region will be celebrating its famous festival of lights, when all the city’s monuments are lit up to create spectacular artistic performances. A great excuse to visit Lyon and indulge yourself in this culinary paradise.

1-An authentic ‘bouchon’: Café des Fédérations

We haven’t eaten at every ‘bouchon’ in Lyon, far from it, but we have eaten here and it has to be one of the best and most authentic in the city. We recommend going there when you’re very hungry: traditional Lyon cuisine is very rich and hearty. As an aperitif, pork crackling. For first course, poached egg au vin with crackling or endive frise with crackling (so much crackling!). Lentils: “it’s not caviar, but still”, they warned us (they came in a mustard sauce and were simply delicious). That’s settled then: lentils are good and caviar is overrated. Chicken with vinegar or pike soufflé. Cheeses. Sweets. Such a banquet encompasses the very best of authentic Lyon cuisine, superbly prepared and with two further enticements. The first is Yves, the owner, the restauranteur who awaits you in his house, who serves you, who wines and dines you and is so friendly you’d ask him to share your table. And the second: the prices (€15 for the set lunch menu and €25 for the set evening menu).

Café des Fédérations. 8, 9, 10 rue Major Martin. Tel. 00 33 4 78 28 26 00.

2-A gastronomic monument: poulet en démi-deuil

The prices may not be its greatest attraction (after all, this restaurant does have two Michelin stars), but, if you can afford it, you really should treat yourself. They don’t serve just any old dish! Poulet en démi-deuiles is a veritable orgy for the taste buds. Imagine free-range poultry raised on the finest farms near Bresse, well fed, meaty and tender, imbued with the taste and aroma of real truffles. The recipe consists of stuffing the space between the skin and the meat with sliced truffles. You have to be a glutton….for pleasure! Poulet en démi-deuiles (which means something like ‘chicken in half mourning’) is what made the first female chef to be awarded three Michelin stars famous. That was back in the 1930s and the chef in question was Eugénie Brazier. Eugénie, a motherless, illiterate country girl, had a very strong character indeed. The walls of Lyon still shudder whenever a chicken comes out of the oven overcooked. Paul Bocuse learnt his trade at her legendary restaurant, La Mère Brazier. Today, it is owned by master chef Mathieu Viannay who, along with his innovative creations, has kept many dishes of his illustrious predecessor on the menu. He’d never dream of forsaking the poulet en démi-deuiles that has enticed so many celebrities to Lyon.

La Mère Brazier. 12 rue Royale. Tel. 00 33 4 78 23 17 20

3-Choose from a 3-take menu with one eye on Japan: Do-Mo

Lyon’s gastronomic heritage, popular or bourgeois, is so mega famous, so legendary the world over and, at the same time, so full of itself, it’s hard to ignore. Yet a short stroll along the city centre streets, even with blinkers on, shows us that Japanese cuisine is fast gaining a foothold. It must appeal to the locals because Japanese restaurants are opening all over the city. Here’s our recommendation for a rather unique experience. At Do-Mo, the produce on offer is given three takes: French, Franco-Japanese or Japanese. So you can, for instance, order your beef French style, with a hint of wasabi for that touch of fusion, or in a 100% Japanese tataki. And the same applies to their three takes on spring rolls, sea bream or chocolate, to give a few examples. Do-Mo provides an ultra-modern setting in the new neighbourhood that has sprung up along the banks of the Saône. During the day, it offers picture-postcard views. At night, it’s teeming with beautiful people. On a nice day, it would be a crime not to enjoy its delightful terrace. And any evening visit simply must end in its fashion lounge next door. As well as the a la carte menu, it also has two set menus: €49.50 and €39.50. It even has a kids’ menu, which they don’t actually call “kids’ menu” and doesn’t consist of sausage, chips and beans. It’s called the Jeune Gastronome and includes a dish from the 3-take menu plus a dessert for €12.

Do-Mo. 45, quai Rambaud. Tel. 00 33 4 37 23 09 23

4-Cheesemakers: Let’s try some Saint-marcellin!

Many shops in Presq’île — i.e. the Peninsula, which is the popular name for the area of Lyon between the rivers Saône and Rhône — as well as numerous market stalls in Les Halles, showcase the fact that people from Lyon are also mad about cheese. The most typical local cheese is Saint-marcellin, a soft cheese with a fermented crust and made from cow’s milk. You can find this cheese and many more besides at La Mère Richard, a famous cheese stall at Les Halles, whose owner is an expert at recommending cheeses for her customers, uses only the finest suppliers and has a colourful character to rival even Madamme Brazier herself. The women from Lyon would seem to be as intriguing as the cheese: we love it. Both the intrigue and, especially, the cheese.

Mère Richard. Les Halles Paul Bocuse. Tel. 00 33 4 78 62 30 78

5-Cool lodgings: bed and breakfast at Mama Shelter

We all need to rest. Lyon is a city of commerce full of comfortable hotels, it’s easy to find somewhere to stay. But if you chance upon somewhere unusual, all the better. If you like to feel cool, look no further. Mama Shelter is the hotel for you. The staff are young and friendly. Each room has a Mac screen displaying a personal welcome message. The clientele are all easy-going and take full advantage of the hotel’s nighttime DJ sessions as well as the wholesome breakfasts. Despite its loud colour scheme and hip decor (which we don’t dislike), the dining room at Mama Shelter transmits a decidedly zen-like ambience which helps set the mood and opens your appetite for the days’ gastronomic tour. While it may not be located in the most central area, it is well connected by underground, bus, tram and trolleybus. Lyon pulls out all the stops when it comes to public transport.

Mama Shelter. 13, rue Domer. Tel. 00 33 4 78 02 58 00

6-Stop off at a cake shop and buy a cream puff

Lyon is also the perfect destination for those with a sweet tooth. Among the many treats on offer, one stands out above the rest. They are light as air with a creamy filling. Need more clues? Ok, just one more. They are made from choux pastry and usually come with a cream or truffle filling. You got it, cream puffs and profiteroles. Yet Lyon’s choux pastries are the same as you’d find in any French city, such as Toulouse, or Courbevoie, to use the birthplace of Louis de Funes as an example. Lyon does, however, have its own local sweet treats, such as coussins (literally, pillows) or cocons (literally, cocoons). One option is to sample these traditional specialities. Another, which we highly recommend, is to drool over the tasty treats on display at Clostan Traiteur. And, once you’ve finished drooling, you can buy and enjoy exquisite cakes, mousse, tiramisu and a thousand variations on traditional desserts, which led to this master confectioner’s being named the best in the world in 2012.

Clostan Traiteur. Magasin Halle Paul Bocuse. Tel. 00 33 4 78 62 93 03

7-Quenelles never seen (or eaten)

Lyon may be far from the sea, but its inhabitants have always enjoyed eating fish. Back in the middle ages, some local monks created artificial pools in order to farm pike. Today, the area has been turned into a nature reserve. But let’s get to the point: this ensured a plentiful supply of fish, and with one kind in particular — pike, or brochet in French — they created the quenelles that are so typical of Lyon. They are usually made with choux pastry mixed with wheat pasta, butter, eggs, milk and, of course, brochet. The chef uses two spoons to shape the mixture into semicircles, which explains why everyone associates this shape with quenelles. They can be so big that one alone is a meal in itself. Other times they’re smaller, so you can try lots of different kinds. At Giraudet, they give them their own creative touch – adding squid ink and other innovative ingredients – leading to long queues of people anxious to buy them.

Giraudet. Les Halles Paul Bocuse. Tel. 00 33 4 78 62 34 05
Giraudet. 2, rue du Cl Chambonnet. Tel. 00 33 4 72 77 98 58

8-Jesus! We’re not being blasphemous, it’s a kind of salami

Cold sausage deserves a chapter all to itself in any good food guide to Lyon. While the city’s sausage makers use recipes that share a common base, they all add their own special touch, so you won’t find two establishments selling the same thing. This special touch is a closely guarded secret that gives each sausage a unique personality. Basically, it’s all about aromatic herbs and spices. Some of the more popular varieties include cerveuil (which must be cooked, contains pistachos and, in its more luxurious form, truffles), saucisson a cuire (literally, sausage to cook), rosette (a long, slender cured sausage) and, above all, Jesus. The cured sausage known as Jesus is made from the widest part of the intestine and gets its name from the fact that, during the production process, it is wrapped in twine which, according to legend, gave it a quality reminiscent of baby Jesus. Who would have thought? What we do know is that it’s Lyon’s greatest cold sausage and that any Jesus like this makes even the most hardened atheist pray for more.

9-Browse around the market and have lunch there

There’s Bresse chicken. There’s foie. There’s truffle. There’s cheese. There’s wine. Lovers of good food be warned, if you enter Lyon market, you’re doomed. You’ll no doubt come away with a little more cholesterol and a little less money. But that’s the cross we foodies have to bear! To avoid breaking the bank or punishing your taste buds, we suggest that you stay at Les Halles for lunch, where there’s something to suit every pocket. We’re huge fans of Passionnement Truffes, a small bistro inside the market where truffles rule supreme. At lunchtime, they offer an affordable set menu for €19 (dish of the day — a big serving —, dessert and a glass of wine). We had the tenderest chicken ever covered in mushroom sauce. And it filled us with bonheur.

Passionnement Truffes. Les Halles Paul Bocuse. Tel. 00 33 4 78 60 15 98

10-Le beaujolais est arrivé!

The area around Lyon is famous for its wines, boasting no less than four denominations of origin. Beaujolais is one, and it’s been made popular thanks to the beaujolais noveaux, the first wine of the year, the youngest wine. It’s uncorked barely two or three months after harvest (between November and December) and fussier wine lovers will tell you that it’s not worth the effort, since it’s better to let wine age. But the anticipation of wine growers to try the first fruits of their labours infects all of us as well. Let’s hope we’re never deprived of the chance to raise a toast, cry out Le beaujolais est arrivé! and celebrate the fact that we, and our taste buds, have fallen in love with Lyon. And such love lasts forever.

Makes you want to go, right? Do it! Check out our prices here!