Two clichés about Santander. One is 100% true. The other is gradually becoming less so. The first (true) one – you simply have to visit Santander, as it is one of the most beautiful cities in Spain. The second (dispensable) one – you have to eatrabas(deep-fried squid rings). Well, no, you don’t need to because the Cantabrian capital’s culinary offerings have grown in quality and diversity, something we went to try out on our palate.

Umma

Modern, informal cuisine tends to be a ploy. On the pretext of being modern and informal – wham! – they pull a fast one on you. This is not so with Umma. On the contrary. The dishes are recognisable, the produce good and, above all, the sense of taste is above average. Well above average. Miguel Ángel Rodríguez has turned an erstwhile family restaurant into one of the must-visit eateries of Santander. His flair for toying with new ingredients in the same dish, balancing them and bringing out the best in each recipe is prodigious. He takes it in his stride, and it stands to reason, as he has done it all at Noma (Copenhagen), Mugaritz (Rentería) and Cenador de Amós (Villaverde de Pontones, Cantabria), all distinguished by the Michelin Guide and the magazine, Restaurant.

Star dishes; each better, tastier and more dazzling than the next, refining and updating the flavours of Cantabria. Starting with the scrumptious croquettes – round, crisp on the outside, and creamy, almost liquid, on the inside. Then the Santoña anchovy pizza, pork jowl, Gomber cheese, black olives, rocket and dried tomatoes, and ending with two symphonic dishes – beef tongue, mushroom and hazelnut carpaccio and organic eggs with jerky and mushrooms. Take note of the home-brewed beer and the wines, far removed from the wine-cellar establishment. Noteworthy, too, are the exhibits gracing the walls, and the jazz and soul concerts held on Thursday nights.

Umma is what the Japanese exclaim when they like something a lot, and umma is what you’ll say on leaving the establishment after lunching or dining there.

Average price: €35-40 (lunch menu, €18; fast-good menu from Tuesday to Friday, €14, and tasting menu, €39).

Mexsia

When you enter Mexsia and catch sight of the glasses placed any old how, teetering on the edge of the table, you think, “This must be a special place”. Well, yes, because, as you came in, you noticed the background music and the lighting that made you think you were in a pub, rather than a restaurant. Maybe, no… well, yes – this is a gastropub. It is the brainchild of Óscar Calleja, holder of a Michelin star at Annua (in San Vicente de la Barquera). Mixture, fusion, delight. Mexico and Asia – “Mexsia”. Pungent, spicy sauce, like serrano-chile green gazpacho and charcoaled scallop, shrimpaguachile with Chamoy sauce – a fine dish with citrus accompanying excellent produce; exciting like fried maki in tempura with spider crab, masera and avocado pear, or like singed salmon nigiri with crisp nori algae. Sharp, like the homemade nachos served with three, likewise homemade sauces…

Average price: €25-30 (fast-good lunch menu from Tuesday to Friday, €15, and tasting menus for €25 and €30).

El Remedio

They might as well have called it El Paraíso, because the spot where the restaurant is located is paradisiacal, dream-like, marvellous, beautiful… A 19th-century hermitage, a deep green meadow, a cliff, with the sea in the background – unsurpassable! Here, you can live out the Stendhal syndrome for yourself. But, El Remedio is also a good name because, while you are there, you forget about all your concerns; so, it is a remedy for all ailments, albeit a temporary one.

While splendid when the sun shines, in a storm it must be spectacular. A gift on the eyes and the soul, bolstered by the cuisine of Samuel Fernández, attached to the land and sea seen from his restaurant. You must order the megano (a tiny squid done on the griddle) with potato in squid ink, scallop with boletus sauce and cured bellota ham (with a long, intense flavour), dried beans with field mushrooms, a finger-licking, long-simmered stew, fried bull’s tail with beetroot mustard and barbecue sauce. And, all this eaten while gazing out over the horizon. And dreaming away…

Average price: €40.

Goodness me – what gastronomic diversity! Why wait to relish it all? Check out our flights here.

Text and photos: Ferran Imedio (Gastronomistas.com)

By Belén Parra from gastronomistas

Seville’s unique character will hit you as soon as you arrive. Or when you hear that melody; the one you just know will stay with you on your journey, like a memory. Seville is replete with singular colours, aromas and flavours. It is exalting and magical, and pure art. It is all consuming and prevailing. From pre-dinner drinks then onto tapas and the marcha that lasts well into the night. From the small plates of russian salad and patatas bravas in between glasses of rebujito (sherry and soda), cold beer and red wine. And lets not forget the music and dance of flamenco and the sheer joy of the locals who, in a short time, will have you clapping your hands right along with them. Seville makes you forget yourself and gives meaning to life, because in the capital of Andalucía enjoyment is obligatory. Lose yourself in its small streets, landmark monuments, hidden corners and best tables. Whether you are here for a few days or a long stay, experience Seville with a passion.

WHERE TO EAT:

Tradevo. This gastro-tavern is a city institution – as much for locals who appreciate great cuisine as the city’s chefs who come to chew over their trade. The menu fuses tradition and modernity in reasonably priced ‘small plates’ of generous servings and beautiful presentation. Although Travedo is situated out of the tourist zone, it can be hard to get a table (or even a stool at the bar). The salmorejo (a thicker, creamier gazpacho) is to die for, as are daily specials and rice dishes.
Plaza Pintor Amalio García del Moral, 2.

La Pepona Tapas. Situated in the city centre, La Pepona Tapas excels in using local produce in dishes that hail from other parts of the country. It is one of the few places that understand the importance of a good aperitif. Its bodega boasts a fantastic wine selection (especially varieties from Jerez) that can be enjoyed by the glass or half glass – making it a good place to taste local vinos.
Javier Lasso de la Vega, 1.

La Fábrica. La Fábrica belongs to the same groups as Besana Tapas – the ‘tapas temple’ situated in Utrea, a few kilometres from Seville. Located in the buzzing neighbourhood of Alameda, epicentre of the city’s nightlife, it offers non-stop gourmet sandwiches, from breakfast to supper.
Correduría, 1.

Ena. Ena is a new ‘gastro space’ inside the imposing Hotel Alfonso XIII. Having fallen in love with Seville, Carles Abellán from Catalonia has taken on the role of executive chef. For the menu, he has reinterpreted some classic Andalucian dishes and incorporated some of his own famous tapas creations, such as spicy patatas bravas and toasted ham and cheese sandwiches infused with truffle oil. On top of offering an unbeatable setting, Ena has some of the best bartenders in the country. (A cocktail, either pre or post dinner, is imperative). Leave room for the ‘solid’ sangria or another of Abellán’s amusing desserts. Hotel Alfonso XIII. San Fernando, 2.

La Mojigata. A simple, unassuming place where food takes prime place. The tapas changes daily according to produce available in the market, yet always surprises with artful combinations and presentation. The wine list has been carefully edited by the president of the Sommeliers Association of Andalucía.
Moratín, 15.

WHERE TO HAVE A DRINK:

Eme. With views of the Cathedral and the Giralda, the terrace of this hotel is the place to see and be seen. Smart casual dress and atmosphere.
Alemanes, 27.

Inglaterra. Another hotel that stands out on the Plaza Nueva. Go to the top floor to enjoy wide views over a long drink. The chilled out Inglaterra is the perfect place toescape the heat and the city rush.
Plaza Nueva, 7.

Las Casas del Rey de Baeza. Stroll through the historic city centre to this hotel, run by the Hospes Group, on the Plaza de la Redención. Converted from a series of period mansions, it has retained a rustic air and affords a calm ambiance that invites lingering. The patio is the best place to order a glass of wine accompanied by some delicious croquettes prepared by the Azahar restaurant. Or head up to the roof with its swimming pool and cocktail bar.
Plaza Jesús de la Redención, 2.

Bar Americano. We like its cocktail list, or more precisely, its selection of Cócteles de Cine that have been inspired by films shot in Seville. Bar Americano is a distinguished spot. Sophisticated and serene, it was instilled inside the Alfonso XIII during its most recent (and ambitious) renovation. It is perfect for a relaxed drink over conversation.
Hotel Alfonso XIII. San Fernando, 2.

WHERE TO SLEEP:

BarcelóRenacimiento.
Avda. Álvaro Alonso Barba, S/N.

Modern, functional and with all the services you could ever need; the Barceló Renacimientois a five star worth its salt for those who want everything at their fingertips. Situated a few steps from the Isla Mágica fun park, the Guadalquivir River and y La Alameda, its impressive installations include an open air swimming pool. Made to order breakfasts, free wifi, spacious rooms, various leisure and business areas, gardens and singular architecture present an enticing package.

WHERE TO HAVE A FOODIE TREAT:

A crema sevillana ice cream from the artisan ice-cream makers La Fiorentina.
Zaragoza, 16.

A brioche, butter or anchovy bread from Pan y Più, a traditional bakery with French and Italian influences

Cabeza del Rey Don Pedro.

Rosquillas, pain au chocolat, or cream cake (pastel de nata) at La Dulcería de Manu Jara.
Pureza, 5.

Why not take a trip to Sevilla? Have a look at our flights here!

The Ribera del Duero is renowned for being one of Spain’s leading winemaking regions. Sited along the banks of the river Duero, it covers an area of 115 km long by 35 km wide, distributed between the provinces of Soria, Burgos, Segovia and Valladolid. The landscape is characterised by vast swathes of vineyards stretching along the Duero riverbanks, dotted with wine cellars at certain intervals. For wine connoisseurs, moving about this region means revisiting the source of familiar tastes and aromas which they will have encountered at wine-tastings, romantic evenings or festivities. For the novice, it is a unique opportunity to make a triumphal entry into the complex world of nuances. Here are some details on the essential things to do in this region:

1. An Appetiser – Aranda de Duero and its Underground Cellars

Located in the heart of the region, Aranda de Duero is one of the main towns in the Ribera del Duero. Hidden in the basements of the old town is what is known as the bodega de Las Ánimas, no less than 7 kilometres of tunnels and galleries that were excavated between the 13th and 18th century to harness the constant humidity and temperature values (11–13°C) for wine-making. A tour of this cellar can be rounded off by a visit to the Centro de Interpretación de la Arquitectura del Vino (CIAVIN), which highlights how Aranda de Duero and the Ribera del Duero are closely related to wine.

2. Between Glasses of Wine

Let’s cut to the quick –the time has come to meet the makers of “the elixir of Bacchus”. Amid the vast, never-ending array of wine cellars, the best thing is to make a selection of what we’re most interested in, from mere curiosity, through entertainment, to seeking out a particular flavour. In recent times, some wine merchants have elected to revamp their corporate image, as evinced in the design of their buildings. It is therefore rewarding to view the results of applying the latest trends in architecture to their wineries. A case in point is the Bodegas Portia, the work of Norman Foster, Protos, designed by Richard Rogers, along with Alonso Balaguer and Arquitectos Asociados, and the Cepa 21, Pagos del Rey and Legaris wineries.

For those hankering after new sensations, the Matarromera Group, among a wealth of other enotouristic experiences, offer visitors the chance to take on the role of a viniculturist and make their own wine. Exciting, don’t you think?

If you happen to be here during the wine harvest (October–November), some wineries allow you to take part in them, as with the Condado de Haza winery, which hosts a Jornada de Vendimia. But, remember, in all instances you have to book ahead – don’t forget it!

3. Eating Lechazo

The star dish in the Ribera del Duero is lechazo (suckling lamb), roasted over a wood fire after being marinated in a good local wine. We can recommend the Molino de Palacios which, as its name indicates, is located in a windmill in Peñafiel. In autumn they hold a “Game and Field Mushroom Day”. Another pleasant grill-house is the Lagar de Isilla, in Aranda de Duero.

4. A Tour of Peñafiel Castle

Halfway between Valladolid and Aranda de Duero lies the magnificent town of Peñafiel with its striking, walled castle, set atop a hill, dating back to the 10th century. Declared a national monument in 1917, it now houses the Provincial Wine Museum, which promotes the province of Valladolid through the world of wine. Don’t miss out on the stunning views of the valley!

5. Let’s Join the Fiesta!

One of the many summer fiestas which take place in mid-August is Sonorama Ribera, a festival which proves that domestic and international pop and rock marry well with the region’s wine culture. In addition to a wealth of music, the festival programme includes wine tastings, wine cellar breakfasts and more.

6. Wine Therapy?

After all this hustle and bustle, take a well-earned rest and try the treatment offered by the Lavida spa hotel in which the benefits of wine are applied to skin care.

Don’t miss the chance to discover this land of wines – book your fare now!

Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación

Photos by Ruta del Vino Ribera del Duero

Karlín is Prague’s emerging quarter. However, it had a rather lacklustre past, as it was one of the city’s industrial districts in the 19th century. A network of grid-pattern streets were built during that period, as well as a central square and a picturesque church. Countless factories of all types were erected alongside late-classical-style buildings with typical bay windows. One of the standout landmarks from those times is the Negrelli Viaduct, a bridge linking two important railway stations on either side of a river. The 1960s saw the construction of one of the first areas of reinforced concrete-slab buildings, as well as a hotel of dubious taste – the Olympik – just when Prague was a hot candidate to host the Olympic Games. The city’s first metro line, built in 1974, had its terminus in Karlín, in the station called Florenc.

The Karlín district features some stunning contemporary buildings. A clear example of this is the Corso complex, made up of Corso I, Corso II and Corso III, a renovation and reconstruction project designed by Ricardo Bofill. Another noteworthy project in the district is River City Prague, made up of the buildings Danube House, Nile House, Amazon Court and River Diamond. We were impressed by the Keystone office building for its references to Cubism, a style that made its mark in the Czech Republic a century ago. However, the dominant landmark in Karlín’s skyline is the Main Point Karlín office building which in 2012 was designated the most sustainable office building in the world. This unusual construction also boasts a terrace-garden open all year around which affords striking views of Prague’s historic city.

Cafés, Bistros & Restaurants in Karlín

Karlín sustained serious damage on account of flooding in 2002. Reclamation work took a year to complete before the area returned to normal. The flood repairs were used as a pretext to restore some of the district’s standout buildings and to embark on an intensive housing building scheme, which in turn spawned a host of new bars and restaurants that are now must-visit venues on a sightseeing tour of Prague. Be sure to visit Lyckovo Namesti Square and its surrounding area.

The area has been largely taken over by new businesses related to the hospitality sector in recent years. To guide you through the intricate web of venues, we have short-listed the following:

Muj Salek Kavy

The forte of this establishment is undoubtedly its coffee, which is very well made. The interior is cosy. You can take a breather and catch up on your networking here. If you’re feeling peckish, we can recommend the yoghurt with fruit and muesli.

Kafé Karlin

Said to be the most authentic café in Prague. They also offer coffee tasting sessions. Watch out, though, as the small premises fill up quick. The expresso and cappuccino are awesome.

Theatro Café & Restaurant

It features striking interior design and is well worth visiting to have a coffee, tea or breakfast. But, if you want lunch or dinner, you’d be better off looking at other options. Bookings admitted. The premises are spacious and thus suitable for groups. The café has a terrace, too.

Veltlin

Simply the best wine bar in the Czech Republic. They offer biodynamic wines sourced locally, as well as from Slovakia, Austria and many other countries (particularly Central European). The spot has become a trendy after-work bar in Prague. Lunch and dinner are also served.

Krystal Mozaika Bistro

A good place to discover meat-based Czech cuisine. The beef hamburger and roast chicken are really delicious. But, there are other tasty dishes, too, notably the French onion soup and potatoes au gratin.

The Pub

The interesting thing about this pub is the beer tap at each table. It is part of a chain of establishments in the city, but the typical Czech food is also very good here.

Hamburk Pub

As in the rest of the country, great care is lavished on beer here. You can also enjoy freshly prepared homemade cuisine. They offer traditional Czech dishes based on locally sourced fresh ingredients.

Bistro Proti Proudu

This bistro is noted for its excellent service. Their menu is exquisite and varied. We tried the hummus and carrot cake, which were delicious. This venue is ideal for a fast snack or sandwich. Comfortable interior.

Gate Restaurant

The perfect spot for coming to grips with local cuisine. The chicken soup and goulash are excellent, as is the traditional interior design. Bear in mind that smoking is still allowed on the ground floor, which struck us as being rather odd. Reasonably priced.

Charleston

Provides live music every night. This is the ideal spot for having a drink after dinner or to press on with the quest of tasting the various beers in the region.

In short, Karlín is an exceptional quarter of Prague. Its reconstruction achieved a balanced mix of office buildings and residential ones. Many people of diverse tastes and with a variety of professions live and move around this quarter. Don’t wait to discover it. Check out our flights here.

Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Images by Czech Tourism, Commons Wikipedia