A Journey Through the Chianti Hills
The region of Chianti stretches between Arezzo and the Colline Pisane. Regarded as the heart of Tuscany since time immemorial, it is made up of a number of grand landscapes dotted with vineyards, chestnut and holm oak forests, evocative medieval villages, romantic castles and fascinating colonial-style palaces. To crown it all, this is also the land that produces one of the finest wines in the world – Chianti.
A Route Through Chianti
Arriving from Florence, the customary approach road through this wine country takes visitors to the pretty town of Impruneta – in all, a 40-minute car ride. We were captivated by Impruneta on account of its numerous monuments, notably the crenellated belltower from the 13th century and the Basilica of Santa Maria with its Treasure Museum in the annex. Two events of international acclaim are held in these surroundings – the Fiera di San Luca (St Luke’s Fair) and the Festa dell'Uva (Grape Festival) with a traditional parade of allegorical floats. Both festivals are held in autumn.
While heading for Siena we stopped at the old medieval town of Greve in Chianti, which features a triangular public square. It is fringed by buildings and loggias which led us willy-nilly to the Church of Santa Croce. The most important wine fair in all Chianti is held precisely in this square. We then went for a stroll through the upper part of Greve, home to Montefioralle Castle which forms part of the old fortified town.
After passing briefly through the medieval village of Volpaia, we found ourselves in Radda. There we visited the 14th-century Church of San Niccolò and the majestic Palazzo Pretorio (dating from circa 1415). We then made for the parish Church of San Giusto in Salcio, located in a luxuriant hollow set between vineyards, and that of Santa Maria Novella with its characteristic Romanesque facade. As soon as we left, we went straight to the Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico (Consortium of Classic Chianti Wine) which includes the Chiantigiano Study Centre.
Our journey continued across the Chianti hills where we came across panoramas that would take Instagram by storm. We passed through Gaiole, halfway between Florence and Siena and, as we were leaving the town, we stumbled upon some spectacular scenery of vineyards and castles, like those in San Leonino and Fonterutoli.
After leaving the Sienese town we approached Castellina, a stronghold of Etruscan origin with its beautiful central square traversed by the medieval Via delle Volte. From there we went to Monteriggione, a twenty-minute car ride away, built on a hillside and endowed with a compact, walled fortification.
Lastly, we stopped off at the splendid Poggibonsi, a town which holds its grape-treading festival in October.
The Wine
There is a large variety of Chianti wines on account of the peculiarities of local soils and the different production methods in each area or winery. Varying percentages of the same grape yield the leading names – Sangiovese (75-90%), Canaiolo (5-10%) and Malvasia (5-10%), the perfect composition hit upon by Baron Ricasoli in the 19th century to which Tuscan Trebbiano was subsequently added. Here the tradition is so deeply rooted that one can pick out the croplands planted with the different grape varieties.
The method of cultivation, known as L'Arco Toscana, takes place on clayey galestro soil which is porous and permeable and prevents water from collecting around the roots. A characteristic of the post-harvest period is that the grape clusters on some vines appear to have been overlooked, although this is actually part of a centuries-old “control” method. It consists of adding fresh raisin must to fermented wine to induce refermenting, by which all the sugar is converted into alcohol, yielding a particularly dry, stable wine.
After fermenting, the wines continue to be refined until March in steel casks or cement and, once bottled, are ready to be marketed.
Chianti has a characteristic fiery, ruby-red colour. The aroma is intense, with dominant violet, iris and vanilla, while the bouquet is harmonious and dry, with reminiscences of vanilla and almond. The experts claim it ages into a smoother, more velvety wine.
Chianti is a prefect table wine – the aged varieties and reserves pair with red meat, game and spicy cheeses. It is served at room temperature. As for local cuisine, typical Tuscan dishes include ribollita, its main ingredients being cooked vegetables left over from previous meals which are reboiled, augmented with dry bread and dressed with extra virgin olive oil. Another classic in the region are the antipasti such as chicken liver crostini, tomato bruschetta and Sienese capocollo,known locally as finocchiata.
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Three Essential Spots on Gran Canaria
But, that is not all. There is also an endless array of places to visit and activities to engage in. Despite the myriad options, we have made a selection of the spots we feel you can’t afford to miss.
It is well known that Gran Canaria’s beaches are one of its major draws but, to leave it at that would be doing an injustice to an island that has practically unlimited potential. Following is a selection of three must-see sights – apart from the beaches, of course – for your next trip to the island. Our choice is based on several criteria, not just its touristic appeal. Here, then, is our ranking:
3) Painted Cave Museum and Archaeological Park
The Painted Cave Museum and Archaeological Park complex is one of the most stunning sites in Gran Canaria. It lies in the heart of Gáldar’s town centre (Calle Audiencia, 2), in the north of the island. The approach road is therefore the same one leading into the historic centre.
The Painted Cave was discovered in 1862 as a result of agricultural earthwork. The cave interior is huge, its walls richly decorated with all kinds of geometric symbols. The archaeological complex is currently made up of six caves carved out by the ancient dwellers of Gran Canaria, and remains of red ochre can still be seen adorning the walls and ceiling.
The various archaeological projects implemented around the Painted Cave in recent years revealed the presence of a terrace-built country home. The outworks connect the bottom of the gulley to the town’s historic centre, forming what was one of the quarters in the pre-Hispanic Agáldar settlement.
2) Teror Town Centre
The origins of Teror predate the island’s conquest by the Crown of Castile in the 15th century. Indeed, the place-name is derived from the indigenous word Aterura, Therore or Terori, the meaning of which is unknown.
The town’s history and development are closely linked to the Marian apparition of the Virgin of the Pine and the existence of a shrine dating from 1514. However, writings containing references to its station as a centre of pilgrimage do not emerge until two centuries after its foundation.
The “Villa Mariana de Teror” was designated an Art History Complex in 1979, turning it into one of the leading tourist destinations in the island’s interior. Folk traditions and beautiful, meticulously designed houses go hand-in-hand in the streets of Teror, noted for the views they afford of typical Canarian balconies.
A stroll through the historic centre of the town should start willy-nilly at the square of Nuestra Señora del Pino, alongside the church. You can get there quickly from the parking lot by crossing the square above it and heading down Calle Obispo Marquina. If you’re travelling by bus, it stops on the east side of the precinct, so you only need to continue along the Calle Real to the square at the end.
1) The Guayadeque Gorge
The Guayadeque Gorge lies between the towns of Agüimes and Ingenio, in the east of Gran Canaria. The area is of great environmental value and has a rich heritage, leading it to be designated a Natural Monument and an Asset of Cultural Interest – categorised as an “Archaeological Area” – a distinction granted it by the Canary Islands’ Law of Historical Heritage.
The road running through the gorge winds among spectacular cliffs awash with a large variety of pre-Hispanic archaeological deposits and sites, prominent among them being the settlement known as Bermeja Cave.
Housed there is the Guayadeque Gorge Information Centre, open every day except Monday, where you can find out about the archaeological sites in the area and glean a lot of other interesting information about this priceless spot. Visitors will also be able to learn more about the rich, natural fauna and flora in the gorge.
Towards the end of the road winding through the Guayadeque gorge you will come to a number of restaurants set in the rock face itself. The most popular of them is El Centro, comprising a cave complex that creates a unique setting for a restaurant. They offer an extensive menu with dishes representative of Canary Island cuisine, featuring such specialities as fried pork, mixed grill and barbecued pork.
Fancy discovering it for yourself? Check out our flights here.
Images by Patronato Turismo Gran Canaria
8 Cocktail Bars to Savour Ibiza
We decided to find out just what makes Ibiza so special and toured the island in search of the bars with the most amazing views. The unique lie of the land and natural surroundings make any cocktail taste just that much better at the edge of the Mediterranean. The fact is that the simplest things in life are often the best.
Blue Marlin Ibiza
If you’re the type that likes to have a cocktail right on the beach and extend your stay well into the night, then Blue Marlin is the place for you. After 13 years in commission, it has earned its fame as one of the cutting-edge beach clubs on the Ibizan scene. They offer a busy weekly programme of events, a gastro menu committed to local sourcing and haute cuisine, and a broad selection of in-house cocktails. Pick one of their comfortable sunloungers and pamper yourself for a day.
Nassau Beach Club
Nassau is the only beach club in Ibiza that has made it onto the coveted international list of “The World Finest Clubs”. Here, exclusiveness and entertainment are guaranteed all day long. Whether in the lounge or on the beach itself, a cocktail always comes in handy to while away a relaxing time at the water’s edge. So, lean back and treat yourself to an unforgettable experience in one of the island’s most fashionable enclaves.
Nikki Beach Ibiza
Imagine reclining on a Balinese lounger within reach of the pool and the beach, and a select assortment of cocktails to taste. Couldn’t be bad, could it? Nikki Beach Ibiza has found its niche among the island’s beach clubs thanks to their excellent service and a gourmet menu based on international dishes. The club’s leisure offerings are one of their major assets in summer, as they feature themed events throughout the week.
Guaraná Salinas Beach Club
Surrounded by the unspoiled environment of the Ses Salines Nature Reserve, Guaraná is set in an exceptional location. While lying back into your hammock, you can spot Formentera on the horizon as you switch off and relax to the ambient music. Service includes a Mediterranean-style restaurant with freshly caught fish, rices and meat which are paired to perfection with all their cocktails.
Cotton Lounge
If you prefer to stay in town, but still want to catch the sea breeze on your skin, your best bet is to head for Cotton Lounge Club, an elegant, sophisticated establishment with an open-air terrace and panoramic views of the island of Formentera and Ibiza’s south coast. What more could you possibly want? Well, from a traditional Bloody Mary to a Margarita de Guayaba, there are lots of options to choose from. The decision is yours.
Kumharas
A crucial meeting point for anyone wanting to see the best sunsets on earth, Kumharas is a bar-restaurant on the beach with peerless charm. Their hippy essence and respect for and inclusiveness of alternative cultures, as attested by their schedule of performances, make this an alluring venue. One standout feature of their decor is the pirate defence tower, a symbol of Ibiza’s history, of which there are examples across the length and breadth of the island.
Golden Buddha
The orange hues of dusk stretch across the sky above the huge terrace of Golden Buddha. This highly inviting chill-out facing the sea, with Balinese sofas and loungers, affords a privileged vantage point for some beautiful sunsets and a place to savour their vast array of exotic dishes from all over the world. Together with one of their acclaimed mojitos, of course – holders of the accolade for the best in Ibiza.
S’Escalinata
Fancy a cocktail made with fresh fruit inside the magical Dalt Vila, Ibiza’s walled precinct? S’Escalinata is worlds apart from what we have seen so far. It is more informal, casual and carefree than other bars and has something which exerts a pull on its guests. Possibly the fact that there are no chairs, as you have to sit on poufs and cushions that hug this structure, listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The staircase affords views of the city at your feet.
Text by Maricarmen Cruz of Gastronomistas.com
more infoWalpurgis Night – Revisiting the Witches’ Trails
Walpurgis Night – the night of witches or, in German, Walpurgisnacht– is held at the transit from 30 April to 1 May in much of central and northern Europe. May 1 is the feast of St Walpurga, the patron saint of countrywomen and servants, and patroness of conjurers. Legend has it that this is the last time witches can celebrate their heathen festivals after the darkness of winter, and they have the whole night to do so.
One of the most popular sites for this ritual is Brocken, the highest summit in the Harz Mountains (some 50 km from Leipzig, Germany). This peak is often shrouded in dense fog, endowing it with an air of mystery. It even gives rise to an unusual effect known as the Brocken Spectre – an optical illusion that can appear in any fog-clad mountains, by which an enlarged shadow of the observer, surrounded by an iridescent halo, is reflected onto the clouds. The effect is actually created by the diffraction of cloud droplets. This also helped to magnify the legend of the witches in the place mentioned by the German writer, Goethe, at the beginning of his best-known work, Faust, when he describes the scene of the witches’ night celebration on the slopes of the Harz mountains. On Walpurgisnacht, participants assemble at Brocken around a large bonfire and spend the night singing and dancing. The festive ritual is purported to drive off evil spirits. Witches’ night is celebrated at all villages in the Harz Mountains, where the inhabitants dress up as witches and demons, while street markets, fireworks, parades and concerts are organised. Check out the programme listing all the Walpurgis Night activities in Harz.
The Harz Mountains – Following in the Witches’ Footsteps
Accounts from the Harz are not limited to witches. This mountain range in Lower Saxony is an impressive nature reserve featuring some of the really beautiful spots. The mountain trails wind their way between steep cliffs and valleys, ash forests, and networks of villages, palaces and castles dating from the time of the Saxon Dynasty. It is northern Germany’s resort of choice for cross-country skiing and hiking, traversing the natural habitats of the red brocket, deer, lynx and wild boar, as well as the white-throated dipper, black stork and peregrine falcon.
The Harz is criss-crossed by a network of over 8,000 kilometres of well-signposted nature trails, making it a paradise for hikers. While the Harz National Park itself is practically uninhabited, you will come across a few hamlets and restaurants offering genuine, typical German cuisine – the stellar dish of the region is roast potatoes with spices. One of the trekking routes, known as Harzer Hexenstieg (Witches’ Route), is a trail running some 100 kilometres from Osterode, through Brocken, as far as Thale. Halfway along the trail, at a place called Torfhaus, the witches’ trail forks along a stretch known as “Goethe”. Indeed, the poet and playwright walked this same route some 200 years ago.
Fairytale Villages in the Harz Region
The Harz Mountains are also dotted with some charming 16th-century villages, rich in history and legend. Of these, we have highlighted the following:
Goslar. At the foot of the Harz range lies this picturesque medieval town, known as the “Rome of the North”. It was the residence of German kings and emperors until 1253. The historic town and the old Rammelsberg mines, situated on the edge of the town, are listed as World Heritage sites. Also listed by UNESCO is the nearby Upper Harz Water Regale (Oberharzer Wasserregal), one of the world’s largest and most important pre-Industrial Revolution energy-management systems. Its 107 dams and reservoirs and over 300 kilometres of water channels provide a stunning backdrop for the Harz mountain hiking trails.
Wernigerode. This, the nearest town to Brocken is noteworthy for its striking hilltop castle and its medieval houses elaborately adorned with wood carvings.
Thale. Situated in the picturesque Bode Gorge, overlooked by the Hexentanzplatz, a lofty hilltop which can be reached by cable car. Hexentanzplatz, meaning “witches’ dance-floor”, was once a place of worship in Saxon times, sacred to the forest and mountain goddesses. Here you will find various landmarks associated with witches’ legends, in addition to the Walpurgishalle Museum.
Quedlinburg. Just 10 kilometres from Thale lies Quedlinburg, the first capital of Germany and an important town during the Middle Ages. It currently holds the largest concentration of half-timbered buildings in the country. An interesting fact is that this town was ruled by women for 800 years.
You aren’t scared, are you? Come and see it for yourself. Check out our flights here.
Text by Scanner FM
Images by Olli Henze | Σ64 | Mundus Gregorius | GerturdK | Mathias Liebing | JuTe CLZ | Marco Hamersma
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