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The Rugged Side of Majorca

Majorca is renowned the world over for its beaches and coves, but the Sierra de Tramuntana, which rises over a thousand metres above the island’s north coast, is a veritable paradise for hiking enthusiasts. An intricate network of centuries-old tracks and footpaths has been upgraded into a set of fully-fledged walking routes traversing a surprisingly rocky landscape carpeted with dense forest. Peeping out of the clearings are a number of quaint villages and hamlets that preserve their pristine charm. A long-distance footpath, known as the Dry Stone Route (Ruta de Piedra en Seco) or GR-221, runs from one end of the range to the other, flanked by the most rugged landscapes in Majorca. The route, imbued with the region’s rich cultural heritage, covers 120 km and can be done in full or by sections. For visitors with a tight schedule, we have selected three of the best sections along the trail.

1. Ses Basses and La Trapa – the Stunning Sa Dragonera Vantage Point

The walking route starts at the Coll de Sa Gramola, a mountain pass accessible from the Andratx main road. From here, a trail heads westwards towards the caseta de Ses Basses. After that the path narrows and leads to an area with various viewpoints overlooking the sea, affording wonderful panoramic views. The trail gradually merges into the wild landscape which compounds a rugged, breathtaking setting against the backdrop of the island of Sa Dragonera protruding into the sea. After a descent flanked by vegetation, you come to an old Trappist monastery now under restoration. The project will eventually include a shelter for hikers. For the return trip, you go back the same way you came.

Recommendations:
This is an easy route, covering 15 km for the whole round trip, ideal for a morning’s hike.
Access: Coll de Sa Gramola lies 5 km from Andratx, reached via the Ma-10 main road, where there is a parking area. If you happen to come in two cars, you can extend the excursion beyond La Trapa as far as Sant Elm, where you can park one of the cars beforehand. The walking distance from Coll de Sa Gramola to Sant Elm is 13 km in all. Remember to take water as there are no drinking sources on the way and little shade.

2. Camí de s’Arxiduc – a High-Flying Lookout Between Valldemossa and Deià

The excursion begins at the Charterhouse of Valldemossa, the former residence of King Sancho I of Majorca. Exit the village of Valldemossa following the white and red markers of the GR-221 along a stony path with a steep gradient that ends at the Es Cairats shelter, which is still closed. It should be noted that original route of the GR-221 was very different from the current one as it used to go over the summit of Talaia Vella, from where it joined up with the Camí de s’Arxiduc. On the new route, old lime kilns are visible on the ascent leading to Es Cairats, as are charcoal kilns and the small shelters once inhabited by those in charge of managing resources in the magnificent holm oak woods.

After the shelter, the footpath turns into a track and you soon come to a wild, open area. The GR-221 markers lead to the summit of Puig Gros, the Pla des Aritges plain and Es Caragolí, where the route finally links up with the panoramic Camí de s’Arxiduc. Before taking a detour to descend towards Deià, it is well worth walking a few extra yards – even though this involves going back on our tracks – along this emblematic route, as it runs along the ridge of the mountains. It was commissioned by the Archduke Louis Salvador of Habsburg-Lorraine in the late-19th century for the sole purpose of being able to enjoy the scenery.

Recommendations:
While only 13 km long, the route has a difficulty of medium-high, on account of the slopes and terrain, which is very rocky and steep in some stretches.
Access:
You can leave your car in Valldemossa and take the bus back from Deià.

3. From Sóller to the Monastery of Lluc – A Weekend in the Mountain Heartland

One of the most spectacular, varied, accessible and best appointed sections of the GR-221 is the one that connects the historical town of Sóller to the Monastery of Lluc. It covers a distance of 35 km and can readily be divided into two stages – of 19 km and 15 km each – with an overnight in the Tossals Verds shelter.

Stage 1 – On the first day, the GR-221 markers point you from the centre of Sóller to the bucolic Biniaraix gorge. This involves a pronounced accumulated slope, leading up to the Coll de l’Ofre and the Cúber dam. From here, the more seasoned hikers can proceed to the Tossals Verds shelter via the new Pas Llis bypass, with an added ascent and a brief, simple equipped pass. The alternative is the old route which goes around Coll des Coloms and does not entail any difficulty.

Stage 2 – After regaining your strength in the shelter, you proceed along the GR-221 towards the panoramic areas of Coll des Prat and Coll des Telègraf. From here, a long descent leads you to the monastery along a winding path which snakes through a holm-oak wood featuring old but recently restored ice pits.

Recommendations:
The trek lasts two days and the difficulty level is medium to high, as it includes steep slopes – with a daily accumulated slope of over 1,100 metres – and prolonged descents along tracks. The terrain is rocky and requires mountain footwear, in addition to trekking poles. While the path is signposted with posts, waymarkers and paint marks, it is advisable to take your own hiking map, such as the one published by the Editorial Alpina. You should also book overnights at the Tossals Verds shelter in advance, as capacity is limited (website).
Access:
You can get a bus to Sóller from Palma, or you can travel on the old Sóller railway, which has been plying the route daily since 1912. You can take the L330 line bus to make the return journey from Lluc to Palma.

Don’t wait to discover the rugged enclaves of Majorca – check out our flights here.

 

Text by Sergio Fernández Tolosa & Amelia Herrero Becker of Con Un Par de Ruedas

Photos by Con Un Par de Ruedas

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72 hours to get a taste of Lanzarote

By Isabel Loscertales from gastronomistas

Feeling a bit blue because summer is almost over? In just three hours you can get to Lanzarote from Barcelona: it's close, it's accessible, and you'll be able to enjoy the good weather again over a long weekend. But the good weather should not be the main reason to visit the island, as you'll find that the unique beauty of its volcanic landscape, the art byCésar Manrique and the island's cuisine are even more fascinating than its climate. As it's quite a small island (about 60 km long and 20 km wide), all you need is a few days to go on a short break and get a good taste of what it has to offer. We would like to suggest an ideal plan for three days:

DAY 1: CENTRE OF LANZAROTE

There are many places to stay on the island, like the popular area of Costa Teguise, which is full of hotels. Barceló Lanzarote Resort (Avenida del Mar, 5. Tel. 928 591 329. www.barcelo.com) is an affordable hotel and perfect for family holidays. It's being refurbished and has large and comfortable rooms, three pools for adults and two for children, many activities for children, sports facilities (climbing wall, miniature golf, tennis courts, etc.), a wellness centre, buffet breakfast, and "Mediterráneo", a restaurant that offers, amongst other delights, homemade pasta and a carefully selected range of wines.

Once you've settling in and are feeling relaxed, it's a good idea to explore the area of La Geria, where you can find the curious landscape covered with typical Lanzarote vineyards. Because of the volcanic soil and strong winds, the vines are planted in pits sheltered by circular stone walls. This dry cultivation method is called "enarenado". The view of these vast vineyards surrounded by perfectly built walls, with the bare mountains in the background, is unique in the world, and is well worth seeing. And even better if you enjoy it with a glass of wine in your hand. White wine is the island's speciality – specifically Volcanic Malvasía, the island's top variety. Once you try it you won't want to drink anything else. If you would like to find out more, you can visit a winery, like El Grifo (Teguise-Uga, LZ-30, km. 11. San Bartolomé. Tel. 928 524 036. www.elgrifo.com). Then, you can visit the "Campesino" monument and the César Manrique Foundation, which are close by.

The capital of the island, Arrecife, covers the centre of the island and the south coast. The most charming area, which is quite fashionable at the moment and has a great atmosphere, is Charco de San Ginés. After going for a walk you can have dinner at a restaurant that opened recently: Naia. It's very trendy and has a beautiful view of the lake. The half-Basque half-Canarian chef, Mikel Otaegui, offers modern Mediterranean cuisine with a twist, like foie gras micuit as crème brûlée, or creamy rice with small cuttlefish. Avenida César Manrique, 33. Tel. 928 805 797. www.restaurantenaialanzarote.com).

DAY 2: SOUTH OF LANZAROTE

The beautiful Timanfaya National Park is a place not to be missed. At the entrance you find an activity specially for tourists: a camel ride, which you might fancy... or not. The best thing to is to take the bus inside the park and enjoy the amazing lunar landscape: a desert area full of volcanoes, traces of lava, and a display of red, ochre and orange hues against the blue sea. You can almost get an idea of what life on another planet would be like. After the bus trip you can stop at the curious El Diablo restaurant, designed by César Manrique (the ever-present artist whose work is to be found all over the island), which overlooks the park. You have to see the enormous grill where they cook the meat – they use geothermal heat straight from the ground, at 600ºC!

Near the park you can find the coastal village of El Golfo, where you can taste typical cuisine of the sea. One of the places you can try is Bogavante restaurant (Avenida Marítima, 39. El Golfo. Tel. 928 173 505), which has a terrace that is not far from the sea. Here you must taste typical Lanzarote fish and seafood. With an intense flavour granted by the Atlantic Ocean, sea bream, comber, red mullet, limpets, squid, grouper, etc. are cooked in simple ways, grilled, with mandatory wrinkled potatoes and mojo picón sauce (either the more citrus green mojo, or the slightly hot red mojo). Other typical products in Lanzarote are cheese, also served fried with fig jam, and scalded "gofio" (which is toasted cornmeal mixed with water and salt; sometimes it replaces bread, and other times it's used to make desserts). And speaking of dessert, you must try "bienmesabe", a very sweet cake that is typical of the area, made with almonds, honey, egg yolk and sugar.

In the afternoon you can visit a lagoon, Laguna Verde or de los Clicos and the Hervideros, where you can see where the sea has eroded the volcanic rocks. Lower down you can find thePapagayo beaches, situated in a nature reserve (there is an fee of around €3 to park the car), and stunning coves where you can sunbathe and relax.

And to round off the day, you can book a table at La Tegala restaurant, in the town of Mácher, near Puerto del Carmen. It's a very special and romantic place, recommended by the Michelin Guide, where the food and the architecture are a wonderful combination of tradition and modernity. Built on a small vantage point, it is the result of joining an old traditional country house and an avant-garde annex with large windows. Chef Germán Blanco's signature cuisine includes many locally-sourced ingredients (organic where possible), to make it fun and contemporary, and bursting with flavour. The best way to discover it is with the Estela menu experience, which changes a few times during the year and is quite affordable at €42.

DAY 3: NORTH OF LANZAROTE

As you head north, it's worth stopping at the picturesque town of Teguise. If you go on a Sunday, there is a very popular market with a small area selling food, where you can purchase cheese, homemade mojo picón sauce, wine, etc. Nearby you can findFamara beach, with its amazing cliff. It's very popular with surfers, as it's really windy! Then you'll come across the town of Haría and its "valle de las mil palmeras" (Valley of a Thousand Palm Trees).

Another popular place in Lanzarote is the Mirador del Río viewpoint, one of César Manrique's projects, resting atop Risco de Famara, and perfectly integrated into the landscape. If affords amazing views of the volcanic mountainsides and of Chinijo archipelago, where Graciosa is the main island. You can have a drink at the beautiful café-restaurant, which boasts large windows that enable you to enjoy the panoramic view. Then it's time to visit Los Verdes cave, situated in a lava tube that continues under the sea. And then we find another of Cesar Manrique's great works: the beautiful Jameos del Agua site. It's an open lava tube with a natural lake. Look carefully at the small albino crabs that live here. They are an endemic species called "jameítos" There is also a café-restaurant here.

You can have lunch at the coastal town of Arrieta, to continue tasting the island's delicacies from the sea. If you're looking for an affordable place, La Casa de la Playa, a restaurant on La Garita beach serves fish and seafood for €15-20 on average (Tel. 928 173 339). And if you've still got time, you shouldn't miss a trip to Graciosa island, to visit some of its secluded beaches. Boats normally leave from the municipality of Órzola. This small island only has a couple of municipalities and no roads have been built, so it's perfect for those who love cycling in the unspoilt and wild countryside.

 We’ll be there. If you want to come too, check out our flights here.

Nosotros nos apuntamos, si quieres venirte consulta nuestros vuelos aquí.

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In route with Joe Strummer to Granda and Almeria

It is more than 10 years since Joe Strummer left us. This artist, famous for his punk period with the well-known The Clash, was in love with spanish poet Lorca, Granada and Almeria coast, where he spent lost of time during his lasts years.
This is something which can be surprising for lots of people, but not for the ones who really knows him drinking rhum and coke at the famous Silbar – at calle Pedro Antonio de Alarcón in Granada- or for those ones that digg into his discography.

It was in the squat where he lived in London – despite being a world-renowned artist- living together with two girls from Málaga and a guy from Navarra, where Strummer once said that he wanted to set up a hardware store in Andalusia. Hence the documentary’s name by Antonio Jesús García and Javier Navarrete where he explains how the singer took refuge in Granada and Almería in search of anonymity and Carlos Prats directed under the title “I Want a hardware store in Andalusia “. All kind of anecdotes are explained in the documentary by his widow Lucinda Garland, vocalist of the band 091 José Antonio García a.k.a. ‘Pitos’, his first band drummer Richard Dudanski and Jem Finer, The Pogues’s component.

Another documentary about his stay in Spain is “I Need a Dodge ! ” by British director Nick Hall, that inquires about the location of the car he loved and he left forgotten in a garage in Madrid . By buying this Dodge, he wanted to go to Víznar, a population at 8 kilometers from Granada where Federico García Lorca was shot to death , with the crazy idea to buy a shovel at a hardware store, locate his grave and dig it up .

The fact is that Joe had great interest in the Spanish Civil War and Federico García Lorca. Thereby he wrote “Spanish Bombs” in his honor, one of the most emblematic The Clash’s songs . In 1984 he settled in Granada and spent long periods of time searching for himself and looking for disconnection in southern Spain’s land. Ten years after his death, the city he loved gave its name to a small square in the heart of Realejo, the old Jewish city’s quarter.

Joe Strummer Square

 

Due to the popular demand from fans on Facebook asking for Joe to be a part of the city, the City Council of Granada has ended up dedicating him a small space close to the Alhambra. In addition to his first wife, Gaby Slater, and his widow, Lucina Garland,an emotional concert in acoustic remembered the influential figure of the leader of The Clash. The features some Jose Antinio Garcia and Antonio Arias of 091 to which Joe godfather for “Más de 100 Lobos”, Paul Cook of The Mescaleros, Jem Finer of The Pogues or Richard Dudanski of the 101 ‘ers have done a review on some of the artist’s repertoire, without forgetting classics such as “Spanish Bombs” or “London Calling.

Las Gabias – Granada

 

In this village a few kilometers from the city of Granada, Joe Strummer was hosted at Gaby Contreras’s home, a radiologist nicknamed ‘the mad doctor’ by Joe and who was also close friend to Sid Vicious.

San José – Almería

 

During his long stay in southern Spain, Joe Strummer settled for a time in the small picturesque village of San José, in the Natural Park Cabo de Gata-Nijar. Bought a house to spend the summer and enjoy Mónsul and Genoese beaches. He spent the nights at Jo’s bar, the Red Fish that is now the Pez Azul – and . Fan of cantaor el Niño de Olivares, Strummer went regularly to Fernan Perez’s flamenco club to attend his performances.

In summer and coinciding with Joe’s birthday on August 21 they continue to schedule concerts in his memory at Jo’s bar in San José by Richard Dudanski’s band Doghouse -former The 101′ers’s drummer and whom Joe Strummer made his first foray into the world of music.

Desierto de Tabernas – “Straight to Hell”’s filming

 

Tabernas Desert is located about 30 kilometers from Almeria, in a desert area with a low rate of rainfall that becomes one of the driest in Europe. Although it has a tourist charm for having been the scene of the shooting of many spaghetti westerns like Death was priced or The Good, the Bad and the Ugly and many others

Here the film Straight to Hell Alex Cox was filmed in 1987, starring Joe Strummer and the cameos by Dennis Hopper, Courtney Love, Grace Jones, Elvis Costello, Jim Jarmusch and members of bands Amazulu, The Circle Jerks and The Pogues. The Irish Pogues’s travel to Almeria inspired them in one of their most famous “Fiesta”. Straight to Hell is a parody of spaghetti westerns that was written in two or three days and was shot in four weeks.

I am Francisco Vasquez Garcia
I am welcome to Almeria
We have sin gas and con leche
We have fiesta and feria

Why not take a trip to Almería? Have a look at our flights here!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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5 Must Do Things in Bergen

Bergen’s history goes back 900 years. In all that time it has been characterised by the hospitality of its people towards visitors. Nowadays it is known for being the true cultural hub of Norway. In fact, it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Ever since the intrepid King Olav Kyrre entered the harbour and founded the city in 1070, Bergen has attracted people from all over the world. Some came and then left, while others chose to make Bergen their home. Bergensers have traditionally travelled overseas a lot; indeed, their flair for trading has always earned them long-standing ties with other lands, while drawing a number of different cultures to the city over the centuries. Hence, it was once Norway’s most important city, its first capital and seat of the royal family. The old city, Bryggen, lies just twelve kilometres from the airport – well, a short walk away!

Cruising among Fjords and Mountains

Enjoy an all-encompassing experience by going on a cruise among the fjords, mountains and waterfalls. It lasts three hours and takes you to Osterfjord and the picturesque Mostraumen, a spot so narrow the ships can hardly get through the sound. The cruise starts at Zachariasbryggen, next to the Fish Market. The first stretch of the trip affords nice views of the city of Bergen. You then sail under the Nordhordalandsbrua and on the Osterfjord. As you approach Mostraumen, the fjord begins to narrow and it is thrilling to find yourself hemmed in beneath steep mountains. The route also takes you past several waterfalls and you can even collect some water from them to drink. Have your smartphone cam ready, as it is easy to spot seals, goats and eagles during the crossing. More information here.

Strolling Along the Quayside

The old quayside saw its period of splendour in the 13th century when the erstwhile confederation of merchant cities in the north of Germany, set up to promote trade between the country’s major cities, opened one of its four European kontors here. Its architectural design is unique and is perhaps one of the images of Norway that most springs to mind. Bergen grew up around its colourful harbour which was the hub of trade, navigation and the craft industry.

The Fish Market

Bergen’s picturesque Fish Market is one of Norway’s most widely visited open-air markets. Fruit, vegetables and souvenirs are also sold here, but its mainstay is clearly the sale of fish. It is magnificently sited in the heart of the city, among the fjords and Bergen’s seven mountains. In the summer season (from 1 May to 30 September), the market opens from 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. every day of the week. In winter, however, it only opens on Saturdays, from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. Children relish a visit to this market as live shellfish is displayed in large fish tanks.

Award-Winning Panoramas

The best views of Bergen are to be had by taking the Fløibanen funicular railway which takes just 8 minutes to run up Mt Fløyen. Located on the summit is a stunning park with numerous attractions for children. Another option is to go for a walk on the top of the mountain. The funicular is one of Norway’s most famous draws. The ride begins in the city centre, just 150 metres from the Fish Market and the Bryggen. Mt Fløyen is about 320 metres above sea level and atop it you can soak up the fine views and take in the urban landscape in detail, as well as panoramic vistas of the sea and fjords of Bergen.

Edvard Grieg Museum

The current Edvard Grieg Museum was the famous composer’s home for 22 years, and it was in this quaint cabin set in a garden that he composed many of his most emblematic works. The museum is housed in Bergen’s Troldhaugen which, in addition to operating as a museum, also hosts exhibitions related to the creator of the famous Piano Concerto in A minor. It also features a café and a small concert hall which includes a cabin dating from 1885.

Bergen has a lot to offer, whether in the city proper or its surrounding area. We can recommend a visit to Stegastein, a viewpoint set 30 metres above the fjord and 650 metres above sea level, which affords some incredible views! Hurry and discover all this now – check out our flights here.

Images by Bergen Tourist, Sverre Hjornevik, Bergen Reiselivstag, Teje Rakke and Dag Fosse

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