The charm of fishing villages
Even the towns at the interior of Mallorca, like Valldemossa, Fonalutx or Biniaraix, are under the shelter of Tramuntana mountain range, are those which kept better the interesting traditions and costumes, by the shore there are little places that survived the urban growth.
Therefore, idyllic images of Mediterranean fishing villages have gradually disappeared as tourists arrived massively. However, there are still charming spots in Mallorca bays, keeping the essence. Visiting them is necessary in order to understand the cultural heritage of the island.
Es Jonquet
Next to Santa Catalina quarter, in Palma, and enclosed by Sant Matgí street, the border between both areas, there is Es Jonguet, one of the oldest neighborhoods in the city, which has conserved all the charm of a fishing quarter. This is a humble neighbourhood, with low-lying houses and irregular streets, rising proud under the mills (old flour mills) that welcome travellers arriving from the sea.
S'Estaca
Do not confuse this old fishing village, near Valldemossa, with the huge mansion that actor Michael Douglas owns in this area and is named the same. The village has about twenty old fishermen shelters where it seems that time has stopped. A magic place between Sa Foradada and Port de Valldemossa.
Porto Petro
Porto Petro is at the town of Santanyí, southeast of Mallorca. Even it’s not a fishermen port as it used to be, it has respected, surprisingly, all its original essence. There are not huge residential areas; only little stores and familiar houses. This is a place for people who want to relax in the nature, with many coves nearby. Closely, however, there are the real tourist areas, like the cove of Mondragó or Cala d'Or, which have a lively activity on summer nights.
Port des Canonge
Passing by Banyalbufar, southwest of Tramutana, the mountain range gets to the sea at Port des Canonge. To get here you have to follow a windy road to discover, at the end, the old houses that fishermen used as shelter and now are a little residential area, with the beauty intact. The quay and a nice beach made of gravel and boulders, make this spot a very quiet place.
Closely, you will find little coves or walk through pine forests following "Volta des General", a nice route that goes from Banyalbufar to Port de Canonge.
Porto Petro by Magnus Manske | Es Joquen by Chixoy | Port des Canonge by mallorcaesasitambien
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more infoCustoms and traditions
Palermo is an open air museum; the different architectural styles intermingle through its streets as if it were a history book . This great artistic legacy is the visible testimony to the influences of the various cultures that have lived in it.
Quattro Canti, the epicenter of Palermo’s historic center, is an octagonal square formed by the intersection of two major roads: Vittorio Emanuele and Via Maqueda, which are surrounded by four identical facades adorned with baroque sculptures. The seventeenth century square is also called Il Teatro del sole, since the sun gradually illuminates each part of the square thoughout the day. The four fountains in the square point to the four historic districts: Kalsa to the southeast, Amalfitania to the northeast and Sincaldi Albergheria to the northwest and southwest.
The beauty of this city lies within the chaotic streets, particularly in the Capo district. It is one of the oldest areas of Palermo, and houses a maze of rocks and semi-destroyed churches.The Capo District is an abandoned, quiet location in the center, away from the chaotic and noisy traffic.
Some aspects to consider in Palermo
In the Antica Focacceria .S Francesco, established in 1834, you can taste the rich palermitana gastronomy. Specialties include the "panino meusa", a sandwich made of boiled spleen, lung and liver of bezerro, and the "arancini", an emblem of Sicilian gastronomy. It´s said to be the first local town who refused to pay the "pizzo", a tax that businesses have to give the mafia. Another great place to try the local cuisine is the Vuccira market .Here you can buy fresh produce, eat typical fried food, such as croquettes, fried vegetables, or fried fish, and visit stalls offering the usual panini.
The Opera of Pupi, marionettes consisting of three Sicilian threads representing chivalrous fights, is one of the Sicilian traditions. To learn about the Sicilian puppet theater workshop, which has been a way of life for generations for this family, visit the Cuticchio on Via Bara all'Olivera to admire the collection dating back to the early nineteenth century. To this day, the workshop displays musical instruments, puppets and essence machinery. The Cuticchio is magical! Or visit the Museum of Antonio Pasqualino 4000, which houses a collection of puppets from around the world.
Another great custom is Sicilians coffee, which is always accompanied by a glass of water and ordered at the bar. Keep in mind that ordering table service may increase the cost by 50%.
Finally, a curiosity we discovered in the award-winning documentary "Metal: A Headbanger's Journey" is a typical hand gesture in the shape of horns, called "malocchio". The documentary explains the origin of this superstitious gesture which is typical amongst older Sicilian women in the street in order to avoid the evil eye. Heavy metal fans started making this gesture in concerts after it was introduced by Ronnie James DIO.
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more infoRecorriendo la Cidade Vella
By the narrow and winding cobbled streets in the old district of A Coruña you can revive its history. Here you can find most of the main landmarks and picturesque nooks of the city.
Cidade Vella is an urban grid that goes from María Pita square to the arts center curated by the Luís Seoane Foundation, and through other remarkable places like Xeneral Azcárrega square, Bárbaras convent or Santiago’s church. This is also the shopping district, with some great antique and handicrafts shops, where you can always buy something special. Of course you can also try the most remarkable specialties from the Galician cuisine at some of the bars or restaurants around this area.
Starting at María Pita square, this is the hearth of the city; named after a heroine that fought the British army, lead by the corsair Francis Drake, on 1589. At the center of the square, a monument by the artist Xosé Castiñeiras, stands in honor of this brave woman.
After the square, Santiago’s church is probably one of the oldest in the city. Romanesque, it was built during the 12-13th century, and at the west façade, the apostle Santiago is represented horseback.
Later, you will pass by evocative Azcárraga square that, in the past, was the most important square of Cidade Vella, taking to the House of the Municipality or the Artillery Depot. The most relevant events and celebrations took place here and also a great market with all sorts of products.
Near here there is the house where Galician poetess Rosalía de Castro lived, from 1870 to 1879, with her husband Manuel Murguía. She is one of the most relevant literary figures from the 19th century, a precursor to the modern poetry who helped restoring Galician own language and culture.
Walking to Bárbaras square, there is a convent founded in the 14th century, which later was taken by the Franciscan order. The name is given from a hermitage dedicated to Santa Bárbara, which was originally in this place.
Following, we find Santo Domingo church and convent, originally outside the walls of the old district but rebuilt, inside the Cidade Vella, in the first half of 17th century. The convent was expanded on 1726 but the church was demolished and nowadays there are only two chapels, Remedios and Rosario.
We’re getting closer to the viewpoint at San Carlos garden, which follows a romantic style and includes a statue dedicated to Roman Magnus Portus Artabrorum. There is also the coffin from general John Moore, which spawns interest among the British and who helped liberating the city from French troops who attacked in 1809. Initially, it was built as a defensive castle, outside the walls, in 16th century, but, little by little, its importance as a bulwark was lost and was eventually abandoned. In the 18th century it was regained as a garden designed by Carlos F. de Croix.
Getting close to the end of this route, the arts center curated by Louis Seoane Foundation, located at an old barracks that have been rebuilt, was opened in 2003. The foundation aims to disclosure the artwork and intellectual legacy from the artist, painter and writer Luis Seoane, and also to develop other exhibitions regarding contemporary culture and reflections.
Ayuntamiento by Carlos Fernández San Millán | Tumba de Sir John Moore by Marcus | Plaza Azcárraga by FirkinCat
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more infoThe Best Monas de Pascua in Alicante
Traditional festivities often go hand-in-hand with culinary delights, as is the case with the mona de Pascua, associated with Easter Monday, when the custom is for men to gift one of these cakes to their godchildren. Eating the mona de Pascua ushers in the end of Lent and fasting.
Themonais eaten in various regions of Spain, including Catalonia, the Balearic Islands, Aragon, Murcia and Valencia, each with their own recipe and peculiarity. In Catalonia, the chocolate mona prevails, while in Valencia they resemble a sweet bun, most of them made of flour, sugar, eggs and salt.
The Tradition in Alicante
Several types ofmonaare made in the Community of Valencia, although the panquemado or toña are available all year around in bakeries and pastry shops. But the variety that appear at Easter are more elaborate and decorative. They are usually either elongated or round and dusted withanisetes(aniseed candies). Those made for children come in amusing, attractive shapes, such as monkeys, snakes or lizards, with a hard-boiled egg embedded in their mouths.
In Alicante and, in general, throughout the Levante (south-eastern seaboard), the custom is to go on an outing in the countryside or hills on the Day of the Mona. Families and friends meet to eat the traditional confectionery in nearby nature areas, including the Sierra de Callosa, the Pinada de Guardamar and the Sierra del Maigmó.
One amusing custom is to break the hard-boiled egg that comes with the mona on a friend’s or family member’s head. They say that some bakers garnish their monas with raw eggs to make the situation even more entertaining. The ritual dictates that the aggressor recite the verse: “Ací em pica, ací em cou i ací t’esclafe l’ou” (Here I’m itching, here I’m smarting and here I break the egg over you).
The Best Pastry Shops in Alicante to Buy Monas and other Confectionery
In Alicante, the pastry shops vie with one another to produce the best monas and display them in their shop windows. One of the most acclaimed ones in the city is Prefiero Sussu, owned by José Manuel Samper, at number 3, calle Pintor Baez. It is a landmark of the best pastries and has won several awards for its delicious toñas. At Sussu they also make one of the finest croissants in Spain. Fresh out of the oven, the taste of butter is unmistakeable, as margarine is not allowed into the Prefiero Sussu bakery under any circumstance.
Horno Rafelet, at 57 calle Maestro Alonso, is a family concern in operation since 1932 where some exquisite homemade products are made. It stands out from the rest because of the traditional recipes they follow and their fine baking.
In the town of Orihuela, in Alicante province, we find what are reputed to be the best toñas in the province. They come from the bakery of El Horno del Obispo, which has been operating since 1850, located in the historic centre of Orihuela. It shares the accolade for the best toñas in Alicante with El Angel, also located in that town. If you visit Orihuela, you should also taste their typical confectionery, known as chato de Orihuela.
How about the Gluten-free Variety?
If you’re looking for gluten- and lactose-free monas de Pascua, there are some delicious ones in the Pastelería José María García, at 46 avenida de Novelda. Their bakery follows homemade recipes based on natural products.
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Text by Scanner FM
Images by Horno Rafelet, La Murciana and Pastelería Torreblanca
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