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Carnac and its Mysterious Megalithic Alignments

Brittany has a wealth of activities to enjoy, be it hiking along the rugged, Atlantic-facing coastline with its stunning scenery, perusing medieval vestiges by visiting castles and abbeys or tasting the local culinary specialities such as crepes, oysters and cider.

There are numerous spots worth visiting in this land of tales and legends, and one area you should make a point of seeing is the Morbihan Coast. But, what exactly lurks in this area in the south of Brittany? Over and above the beaches, which are not to be missed, lies one of the world’s most important prehistoric sites, the Carnac Alignments. Made up of a large number of menhirs, and a few scattered dolmens and tumuli, this ensemble makes Brittany one of the leading centres of prehistoric markers in Europe and, by extension, in the world. Not for nothing the word “menhir”, meaning long stone, and “dolmen”, meaning stone table, both come from the Breton language.

The Carnac Alignments – An Unsolved Mystery

Each year, the town of Carnac, situated in Quiberon Bay, draws a large number of tourists and devotees eager to discover one of the largest extant ensembles of megaliths. The site lies north of Carnac and features larges swathes of megalithic alignments, dolmens, tumuli and menhirs. There are some 3,000 menhirs in all, placed here during the Neolithic period, some time between 4500 and 3300 BC.

The ensemble was originally made up of around 10,000 megaliths and their function remains one of the great unsolved mysteries, even today. There are various disparate theories, ranging from those claiming the site to be of a religious cult, a fertility cult, an astrological map, a necropolis and even a place associated with extraterrestrials, the latter being a common explanation for the great mysteries of mankind. The other major question, which has visitors enthralled, is how they managed to transport and place such large stones, given the limited technology at the time. Visitors approach this megalithic ensemble abuzz with many questions of this kind, and leave the site with the issues unresolved, but the experience is breathtaking in itself.

The complex consists of three major alignments – those of Ménec, Kermario and Kerlescan – although they are thought to have originally been just one. The Ménec alignment is the largest, comprising 1,099 menhirs set in 11 rows, with the east and west ends flanked by cromlechs or stone circles. East of Ménec lies the Kermario alignment, also one of the most frequently visited, featuring 982 menhirs placed in 10 rows and the largest standing stones in the site. Lastly, the Kerlescan alignment, located east of Kermario, has 540 stones distributed in 13 rows. Additionally, there is also the group known as Le Petit-Ménec. Located in a forest, it is made up of 100 standing stones and is thought to have once formed part of Kerlescan.

As if the foregoing were not enough, sightseers can also visit the burial mounds, such as Saint-Michel, dating from 5000 BC, as well as a large number of dolmens, which usually had a funerary function. Before leaving, be sure to visit the Manio Giant, the tallest menhir in the site, which rises six and a half metres.

Book your Vueling to Nantes, which is less than 2 hours from Carnac, and discover this area of Brittany and its mysterious megaliths.

Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Images by Patrick Subotkiewiez, Mike Thomas, Brian Smithson

 

 

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Formentera in Five Bites

It might seem small, but you won’t get through Formentera in a couple of days. Or even in four or five. A sideline for some, and an essential destination for many, Formentera has a really big variety of quality culinary offerings, as well as being an idyllic spot for ambling around, and where you can literally lose track of time. In short, the island can be enjoyed in bites – varied, enticing and affordable. Here, then, are some proposals to satisfy your appetite via a range of different culinary offerings.

Ensalada Payesa

This is the island’s most emblematic dish. A simple, light and tasty salad, it includes fish dried in the island’s sun and sea breeze. Ideal for wetting your appetite. Served in an earthenware bowl at Can Forn, a benchmark restaurant for the finest traditional cuisine. For the best home-fried fish at the seaside, you can’t go wrong at Vogamarí, which also serve great croquettes and calamares a la bruta (calamari in their ink).

Rice

This is probably the food featured most on menus at virtually all restaurants on the island. Among the finest there is black rice and soupy rice with lobster at Can Rafalet, a classic on the up and up at Es Caló de Sant Agustí. Its terraces is among the most coveted in town, on account of the spectacular views. For multiple-customer paellas at knockdown prices, head for the Pelayo beach bar, one of the most alternative spots on the island, on Migjorn beach.

Snacks

Nothing better than a good yango, with your feet in the sand, as you wait for the sun to set on the beach at Ses Illetes. The best option, however, is to hop on board Sa Barca de Formentera, sail around the north as far as S’Espalmador, have a nice swim and, on the return trip, stop off alongside the vessel at the Beso Beach Club, a beach bar offering market cuisine and exotic sandwiches crafted by their chef, Carles Abellán.

Pizzas

If you’re surrounded by Italians and still fancy a pizza, the best are to be had at Macondo, in the town of Sant Ferran. Their variety is endless and you are advised to work up an appetite before you go, as the size of their pizzas and other dishes – like pasta – is considerable. Allow yourself to be pleasantly surprised by Macondo and go for the desserts, too, as they are home made. For afters, drop in on the adjacent Fonda Pepe, the centre of the island’s hippy movement, to order a mitjanet (chaser) of gin tonic or pomada.

Fish and Seafood

You will grow weary of seeing places offering seafood and fresh fish. The most select ones are in the area of Ses Illetes but, if you prefer something quieter and more genuine, try the day’s grilled fresh fish at Conxita i Xicu, on La Mola (Avinguda la Mola 36), a former pastry shop. Do have one of their pastries! You could also opt for lobster and fried eggs at the restaurant, Des Arenals, on the beach of the same name. You won’t be disappointed. And, speaking of eggs, neither can you go wrong with the free-range ones at Can Dani, the only Michelin star on the island.

If you can fit a good swig of wine in between so many snacks, the local fare at the Terramoll winery is highly recommended, as is a dusk cocktail at Piratabus.

Where to Sleep

The quaint Hotel Maisy, on Des Arenals beach, is known for its impeccable, family-style service and for its location next to Migjorn beach and the Caló des Mort. Its rooms with a view have been recently refurbished, as have the surroundings of their outside pool. It also has a restaurant and a bicycle hire service to move around the area.

Move it! Make haste and book your flight with Vueling to this wonderful island.

 

Text by Belén Parra of Gastronomistas

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The Monumental Cemetery of Staglieno

The magnificent sea port of Genoa, situated in the north of Italy, is the perfect spot for a two-day getaway. There you can discover the jewels yielded by the sediment of numerous stories that took place in that city over the years.

The old harbour is undoubtedly Genoa’s major attraction. To mark the 500th anniversary of the discovery of America – one of the city’s most celebrated citizens was Christopher Columbus – the harbour was renovated, a make-over that was long overdue. The result of that restoration includes the Bigo, a futuristic structure designed by Renzo Piano affording interesting views over the city, in addition to the Aquarium, the Biosphere and the Galata Sea Museum, one of the largest marine exhibitions in Europe.

But, apart from its harbour, the capital of Liguria offers many other enticements, such as strolling through the Old Town and wandering around the caruggi or dark, narrow back streets. Also worth visiting are the Palazzi dei Rolli, a system of 16th- and 17th-century Renaissance and Baroque palaces, forty-two of which are listed as World Heritage Sites by UNESCO. Not to be missed either are Genoa Cathedral, dedicated to St Lawrence, and the spectacular Piazza de Ferrari. For those eager to delve into Italy’s history, the place to head for is the Museo del Risorgimento, housed in the erstwhile residence of Giuseppe Mazzini, a key figure in the unification of the country.

The Monumental Cemetery of Staglieno

Apart from these monuments and landmarks, which you are sure to come across in the course of any tourist itinerary through the city, Genoa has another unusual attraction well worth visiting, the Monumental Cemetery of Staglieno. Located on the outskirts of Genoa, on a hillside next to the Bisagno Valley in the Staglieno district, lies one of Europe’s largest cemeteries, celebrated for its interesting sculptural and architectural ensembles on tombs and pantheons.

The construction of cemeteries on the outskirts of towns got under way after the 1804 Napoleonic Edict of Saint-Cloud, by which burials in churches or within city walls were banned. In the case of Genoa, Carlo Barabino was tasked with designing the city’s new cemetery in 1835. Construction work began in 1844 and the precinct was inaugurated in 1851, although building continued until 1880. The precinct was extended over time and areas dedicated to other religions were added, notably the Jewish, Orthodox, Protestant and English cemeteries – the latter houses the tomb of  Oscar Wilde’s wife, Constance Lloyd.

Its origins coincide with the rise of a markedly affluent bourgeoisie, intent on extolling their merits for posterity, to which end they commissioned artists to adorn their opulent mausoleums. These artists included such sculptors as Leonardo Bistolfi, Augusto Rivalta, Giulio Monteverde and Edoardo Alfieri.

A walk through this graveyard effectively becomes a tour of the different art styles that emerged in the 19th and 20th century, as visitors are regaled with works of Neoclassicism, Symbolism, Liberty and Art Deco. This is augmented by the presence of nature, in the guise of plant growth interspersed among the various architectural features, making for an unsettling yet inspiring experience.

Many a visitor has succumbed to the charms of this monumental cemetery. Friedrich Nietzsche and Paul Rée used to discuss philosophy as they strolled through it, while Hemingway described it as “One of the wonders of the world”. Peter Saville, for his part, used photos by Bernard Pierre Wolff of some of the sculptures in the cemetery when he designed the Joy Division album covers for Love Will Tear Us Apart and Closer.

Book your Vueling to this fantastic Mediterranean city – discover its old harbour, stroll through itscaruggi,soak up the beauty of its palaces and drop in on this very special cemetery.

Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Images by jeff kerwin, Enrico Sirola, Superchilum

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Bayonne A City That Tastes of Chocolate and Ham

Bayonne, capital of the French Basque Country, is one of the most surprising cities in the new French region of Aquitaine-Lemosín-Poitou-Charentes. Basque from head to toe, this city located at the confluence of the rivers Nive and Adour is well worth strolling through, as you will discover buildings that stand out for their colourful facades and traditional half-timbering. This reveals the Basque influence and indeed Bayonne is part of the historical territory of Labourd – Lapurdi, in Basque. One of the most widely visited spots in the city is the Basque Museum, which features one of the most important ethnographic collections in southern France. Their culture is present in some local businesses, such as the shops selling typical Basque fabric, in such sports as pelota – very popular among the Bayonnais – and in the language, as French and Basque coexist in Bayonne.

Bayonne, in the department of Pyrénées-Atlantiques, has long been unjustly upstaged by the thermal baths and glitter of neighbouring Biarritz, located less than 10 kilometres away. The historic centre of this locality in Aquitaine is made up of three quarters – Grand Bayonne, Petit Bayonne and Saint-Esprit. Prominent in the first of these is the Cathedral of Sainte-Marie de Bayonne, with its wonderful 13th-century cloister, the Château-Vieux (Old Castle), built in the 12th century by the Viscounts of Lapurdi, and the Spanish Gate, which the old main road leading to the border once passed through. In the Grand Bayonne you can also make out the three walls that encircled the city in former times – one, of Roman origin, a second from the period of King Francis I (early 16th century) and the last one designed by Sébastien Le Prestre de Vauban in the second half of the 17th century.

Petit Bayonne, for its part, is a secluded quarter presided over by the Château-Neuf (New Castle), built by Charles IV in the 15th century. Sited in this area is the aforementioned Basque Museum, on the Nive riverbank, housed in a 16th-century palace known as the Maison Dagourette. Inaugurated in 1922, it is a veritable ethnographic gem, boasting displays ranging from traditional burial sites to houses, furniture and craftwork. Lastly, on the far side of the river lies Saint-Esprit, with the citadel and train station as its major landmarks. That is where Spanish and Portuguese immigrant Jews lived after fleeing from the Inquisition.

Gastronomy in Bayonne

Bayonne market is an ideal place for trying the city’s typical dishes, like the tasty Gâteau Basque,in addition to cured ham, accompanied by peppers from the neighbouring town of Espelette, and chocolate, brought here by the Jews from the Iberian Peninsula who settled in Bayonne. Apart from the market, one of the streets treasured by lovers of the cocoa derivative is Rue Port Neuf,home to a number of craft workshops such as L’Atelier du Chocolat, where a delightful spicy chocolate is made, and Chocolats Cazenave, an establishment which has been running for one and a half centuries and counts among its specialities water-based chocolate and mousse.

Bayonne Mini-Guide

Sleep at…

The Hôtel & Restaurant Les Basses Pyrénées, a central hotel located just a few minutes from the Cathedral and Spanish Gate.

For a meal, be sure to visit…

La Karafe (25, Quai Jaureguiberry), with typicalpinchosand sausage.

Brasserie du Trinquet (4, Rue du Jeu de Paume), sited next to a court where Basque pelota is played on Thursdays.

You can shop at…

Tissage de Luz (3, rue Port de Castets) who sell tablecloths, bags and bedclothes bearing the typical Basque hallmark, as well as other more modern types in bright colours.


The airport of San Sebastián lies 40 kilometres from Bayonne. Book your Vueling here and discover it for yourself!

Text by Tus Destinos

Images by B. BLOCH - CRTA y tuvemafoto-OT Bayonne 

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