Finger-licking Seville and Environs
With the huge, varied offerings in its restaurants, Seville is well worth a culinary visit. From the oldest in the city, Rinconcillo (Calle Gerona, 40. Seville), where the waiters write your order down on the bar counter with a piece of chalk, to the modern Eslava (Calle Eslava, 3-5. Seville), award-winner for such tapas as Un cigarro para Bécquer (a cigar for Bécquer), which emulates a cigar, made of brik pastry filled with algae, cuttlefish and squid-ink calamari.
Then there is the canned fare of La Flor de Toranzo (Calle Jimios, 1-3), the varied side-dishes of Catalina Casa de Comidas y Más (Plaza Padre Jerónimo de Córdoba, 12. Seville) and the legendary piripi (sousing) at Bodeguita Antonio Romero (Calle Antonio Díaz, 5, Antonio Díaz, 19 y Gamazo, 16. Seville), a bread roll filled with bacon, cheese, tomato and mayonnaise, with a touch of garlic and pork fillet.
If Seville is worth visiting, its environs also deserve a culinary tour, either to taste the local fare or to find out more about such emblematic products as their cured ham.
At Sanlúcar la Mayor, some 25 kilometres from Seville, is the restaurant Alhucemas (Avenida del Polideportivo, 4. Sanlúcar la Mayor), an eatery serving deep-fries which, according to many chefs, have the best fried fish in Spain. While they have not yet earned a Michelin star, the managers are regulars at gastronomic congresses, where they reveal their culinary secrets. The restaurant is also frequented by shrine pilgrims seeking their spicy skewered meat known aspinchos morunos,and their lobster salad.
A bit further afield – just one hour away by car – is the must-see ham museum unveiled five months ago at the Cinco Jotas (Calle San Juan del Puerto, s/n), in Jabugo, Huelva. The trip is rewarding as it reveals all the secrets of the production and curing of 100% Iberian bellota ham via a series of talking panels, graphics, videos, interactive screens and a 12-metre-long cyclorama which plunges you into the meadows where the hogs roam free… There are three unforgettable moments: walking through the impressive cellar, where 50,000 (maybe more) legs of ham are kept, the room where a contest is held – with screens, as if in a TV set – where visitors are quizzed about what they see and awarded virtual slices of ham, and the end of the visit, where you are treated to a tasty delicacy, washed down with red wine or sherry.
Nearby the museum you can visit the Gruta de las Maravillas (Calle Pozo de la Nieve, s/n. Aracena) in Aracena, a complex of monumental, millenary caves with interior lakes and figures so incredible they seem hallucinatory. You can have lunch at the Arrieros restaurant (Arrieros, 2. Linares de la Sierra) in Linares de la Sierra, where they serve one of the best hamburgers in Spain, made of tenderloin and field mushrooms. (According to Martín Berasategui, it’s the best hamburger he’s ever tasted, and he must be right.) Indeed, the menu is based on Iberian pork, field mushrooms, fruit and vegetables from their allotment and local aromatic herbs. In a nutshell, what their chef, Luismi López, describes as alta cocina serrana (“highland haute cuisine”), which materialises in the form of excellent dishes, notably Iberian game carpaccio, foie gras and vinaigrette del Condado, tomato soup, strawberry gazpacho, scrambled blood sausage and king prawns, toast with semi-cured cheese and herbs…
Text and images Ferran Imedio (Gastronomistas)
more infoMilan World Design and Fashion Capital
Milan is one of the world’s leading production centres of design, creativity and fashion, which are also its major draws for visitors. Suffice to stroll along the Via Monte Napoleone and the Via della Spiga, two of the landmark shopping precincts, and you will likely be left open-mouthed at the splendid stage setting of the shop windows. No wonder, then, that Milan is the headquarters of such fashion labels as Armani, Prada, Versace, Dolce & Gabbana, Etro, and Miu Miu. Following is our selection of the year’s foremost events which all fashion and design devotees should be including in their schedule and experiencing for themselves.
Milan Design Week
From 4 to 9 April,Milan hosts the Salone del Mobile Milano, one of the major showcases for the latest trends in design, innovation, decoration and creativity each year. Aside from the trade fair itself, which will test your stamina when it comes to traipsing through pavilions and visiting stands, where you will also have to put up with long queues, all the presentations which the firms stage in parallel come under the umbrella of the so-called Fuorisalone. The latter, which is held at a host of venues scattered about the city, enables you to visit (by invitation, on certain occasions) splendid private palaces duly turned into perfect stages for the occasion. These are veritable extravaganzas, at which the stage setting is key, particularly when showcasing the latest trends in design.
The city devotes itself wholeheartedly to the cause for the duration of the fair, when Milan is inundated both by the leading labels that turn up to showcase their wares, and the hordes of visitors from all over the world, who come ready to marvel at the latest in design trends. It is worth bearing in mind that the sheer volume of people flocking to the city has the effect of markedly driving up the prices of accommodation for those few days, so it is essential to prepare your trip well beforehand to avoid unpleasant last-minute surprises.
Milan Fashion Week
This last February the city hosted the latest Milan Fashion Week, when the great names in Italian fashion revealed the cutting-edge trends for the 2017-2018 autumn-winter season. Make a point of attending the forthcoming edition, scheduled for20 to 27 September,during which the catwalks will again be thronged with the most stylish designs, destined to impact the fads we hang in our wardrobes for the 2018 summer season.
Fashion and Design Beyond the Events
You don’t need to visit Milan during these two events to discover how eminently centre-stage fashion and design are in the capital of Lombardy. As we mentioned earlier, merely wandering down the city’s main shopping precincts is truly rewarding on the eyes and a unique opportunity to go on a shopping spree where you can pick up the latest trends.
Another area you should include in your itinerary in the city while hunting for contemporary trends is Brera, a neighbourhood which is at once bohemian and chic and which oozes design wherever you go. Its design studios, and its shop fronts and interiors, will make you feel you have stepped into a fashion magazine. So, be sure to stroll along its streets and soak up the sights. And, you will find the perfect spot for restoring your energy at God Save The Food, an eatery sited in the sunny Piazza del Carmine, flanked by the brickwork-based Neo-gothic Church of Santa Maria del Carmine.
Book your Vueling to Milan and enjoy the very best of international design and Italian fashion.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by Salone del Mobile Milano, Luca Nebuloni
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Majorca for the Family
Majorca is one of the largest islands in the Mediterranean. Its exceptionally good climate makes it one of the most popular destinations, and it has more to offer families than neighbouring Ibiza. Here are some places the youngest members of the family may enjoy.
Family Outings
Cuevas dels Hams in Porto Cristo
Majorca is brimming with magical spots and natural spaces that will pleasantly surprise you, such as the spectacular and beautifully maintained Hams caves near the town of Porto, which were first opened to the public in 1910. It’s an easy drive on good roads, and the play of coloured lights inside the caves will delight your children.
Excursion to the Cúber Reservoir
A great place to take small children, the Cúber reservoir is in a lovely setting at foot of the island’s tallest mountain, the Puig Major. To walk around the perimeter of the reservoir takes a bit more than two hours, starting at kilometre 33.8 of the Sóller-Pollença road, where there is a small parking lot. A little higher up the mountain there’s another parking lot in the Font des Noguer recreational area where the walk begins, and you can enjoy the views as well as the flora and fauna.
Beaches for Babies
The island boasts numerous coves with beaches, but not all are easily accessible or suitable for taking very small children and babies. Cala Ferrera is an exception. It’s just 1,500 metres from the centre of Cala d’Or, and very popular with holidaymakers. There’s a restaurant on the beach itself, with stairs and a boardwalk to the sand. Cala Serena is quieter and semi-developed, and shallow waters make it ideal for children. Cala Esmeralda (also known as Caló des Corrals) in the middle of the Cala d'Or residential and hotel district. Its white sands are ringed with vegetation and rocks. Cala Sa Nau is another charming beach some 13 km from Porto Colom, and boasts a charming restaurant on the smallish but very attractive beach. Cala Marçal, in Felanitx, is distinguished by its large parking lot and its Wi-Fi zone. It is very clean and has good services, including showers, as well as several places to eat.
Changing of the Guard at the Palacio de la Almudaina
At midday on the last Saturday of each month there is a colourful changing of the guard ceremony by the Palma 47th Light Infantry division in front of the Palacio de la Almudaina. The soldiers wear elaborate dress uniforms designed in 1808 for the volunteer corps. The palace was once the official residence of the viceroys of Majorca.
Where to Eat
The Ca’l Dimoni in Algaida is to be recommended for its limited but excellent offering of typical Majorcan dishes such as torradas (grilled sausages and meat), and probably the best arroz brut (“dirty rice” with meat and veg) on the island. Prices are reasonable and the quality is tops. When dessert is served, the famous Dimoni de Ca’l Dimoni or masked demon makes jokes and hands out sweets to the children. Francesco, the owner of the Café El Trotamundos (Calle Annibal, 18. Palma de Majorca), in Palma’s friendly and traditional Santa Catalina neighbourhood, is serious about the quality of the food and service at her cafeteria, and the fresh toasted panini are a favourite with her youngest customers. There’s even a play area for the children.
Where to Sleep
Pirates Village (Avenida del Rey Jaime I, 114. Santa Ponsa) A pirate-themed hotel, is it designed especially for families with children. It has a special swimming pool for smaller children, and water slides for older ones. As well as a children’s activity programme. It’s near the beaches of Santa Ponsa and Caló d’en Pellicer.
Why don’t take a trip to Majorca with the family? Have a look at our flights here!
Text by Isabel y Luis Comunicación
Photos: Fundación Turismo Palma de Mallorca 365, Turisme Petit, Cuevas dels Hams.
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The Rugged Side of Majorca
Majorca is renowned the world over for its beaches and coves, but the Sierra de Tramuntana, which rises over a thousand metres above the island’s north coast, is a veritable paradise for hiking enthusiasts. An intricate network of centuries-old tracks and footpaths has been upgraded into a set of fully-fledged walking routes traversing a surprisingly rocky landscape carpeted with dense forest. Peeping out of the clearings are a number of quaint villages and hamlets that preserve their pristine charm. A long-distance footpath, known as the Dry Stone Route (Ruta de Piedra en Seco) or GR-221, runs from one end of the range to the other, flanked by the most rugged landscapes in Majorca. The route, imbued with the region’s rich cultural heritage, covers 120 km and can be done in full or by sections. For visitors with a tight schedule, we have selected three of the best sections along the trail.
1. Ses Basses and La Trapa – the Stunning Sa Dragonera Vantage Point
The walking route starts at the Coll de Sa Gramola, a mountain pass accessible from the Andratx main road. From here, a trail heads westwards towards the caseta de Ses Basses. After that the path narrows and leads to an area with various viewpoints overlooking the sea, affording wonderful panoramic views. The trail gradually merges into the wild landscape which compounds a rugged, breathtaking setting against the backdrop of the island of Sa Dragonera protruding into the sea. After a descent flanked by vegetation, you come to an old Trappist monastery now under restoration. The project will eventually include a shelter for hikers. For the return trip, you go back the same way you came.
Recommendations:
This is an easy route, covering 15 km for the whole round trip, ideal for a morning’s hike.
Access: Coll de Sa Gramola lies 5 km from Andratx, reached via the Ma-10 main road, where there is a parking area. If you happen to come in two cars, you can extend the excursion beyond La Trapa as far as Sant Elm, where you can park one of the cars beforehand. The walking distance from Coll de Sa Gramola to Sant Elm is 13 km in all. Remember to take water as there are no drinking sources on the way and little shade.
2. Camí de s’Arxiduc – a High-Flying Lookout Between Valldemossa and Deià
The excursion begins at the Charterhouse of Valldemossa, the former residence of King Sancho I of Majorca. Exit the village of Valldemossa following the white and red markers of the GR-221 along a stony path with a steep gradient that ends at the Es Cairats shelter, which is still closed. It should be noted that original route of the GR-221 was very different from the current one as it used to go over the summit of Talaia Vella, from where it joined up with the Camí de s’Arxiduc. On the new route, old lime kilns are visible on the ascent leading to Es Cairats, as are charcoal kilns and the small shelters once inhabited by those in charge of managing resources in the magnificent holm oak woods.
After the shelter, the footpath turns into a track and you soon come to a wild, open area. The GR-221 markers lead to the summit of Puig Gros, the Pla des Aritges plain and Es Caragolí, where the route finally links up with the panoramic Camí de s’Arxiduc. Before taking a detour to descend towards Deià, it is well worth walking a few extra yards – even though this involves going back on our tracks – along this emblematic route, as it runs along the ridge of the mountains. It was commissioned by the Archduke Louis Salvador of Habsburg-Lorraine in the late-19th century for the sole purpose of being able to enjoy the scenery.
Recommendations:
While only 13 km long, the route has a difficulty of medium-high, on account of the slopes and terrain, which is very rocky and steep in some stretches.
Access: You can leave your car in Valldemossa and take the bus back from Deià.
3. From Sóller to the Monastery of Lluc – A Weekend in the Mountain Heartland
One of the most spectacular, varied, accessible and best appointed sections of the GR-221 is the one that connects the historical town of Sóller to the Monastery of Lluc. It covers a distance of 35 km and can readily be divided into two stages – of 19 km and 15 km each – with an overnight in the Tossals Verds shelter.
Stage 1 – On the first day, the GR-221 markers point you from the centre of Sóller to the bucolic Biniaraix gorge. This involves a pronounced accumulated slope, leading up to the Coll de l’Ofre and the Cúber dam. From here, the more seasoned hikers can proceed to the Tossals Verds shelter via the new Pas Llis bypass, with an added ascent and a brief, simple equipped pass. The alternative is the old route which goes around Coll des Coloms and does not entail any difficulty.
Stage 2 – After regaining your strength in the shelter, you proceed along the GR-221 towards the panoramic areas of Coll des Prat and Coll des Telègraf. From here, a long descent leads you to the monastery along a winding path which snakes through a holm-oak wood featuring old but recently restored ice pits.
Recommendations:
The trek lasts two days and the difficulty level is medium to high, as it includes steep slopes – with a daily accumulated slope of over 1,100 metres – and prolonged descents along tracks. The terrain is rocky and requires mountain footwear, in addition to trekking poles. While the path is signposted with posts, waymarkers and paint marks, it is advisable to take your own hiking map, such as the one published by the Editorial Alpina. You should also book overnights at the Tossals Verds shelter in advance, as capacity is limited (website).
Access: You can get a bus to Sóller from Palma, or you can travel on the old Sóller railway, which has been plying the route daily since 1912. You can take the L330 line bus to make the return journey from Lluc to Palma.
Don’t wait to discover the rugged enclaves of Majorca – check out our flights here.
Text by Sergio Fernández Tolosa & Amelia Herrero Becker of Con Un Par de Ruedas
Photos by Con Un Par de Ruedas
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