Almodóvars Madrid
What can we say about Pedro Almodóvar? Luis Buñuel notwithstanding, he is the internationally best known Spanish film director. His Oscar-award-studded, iconoclastic filmography includes both masterpieces and a large number of highly interesting movies. Like any creator worth his salt – and the Manchegan is one of these – Almodóvar has a pet city that features repeatedly in his films. We are referring to Madrid. In the late seventies he left his native Calzada de Calatrava and journeyed to the capital, Madrid, intent on making his name in cinema. It ended up becoming his favourite set. He has portrayed it in many different ways, revealing both its highlights and shadows, its well-known and its hidden facets. Almodóvar has explored virtually all the streets of his adopted city with a view to heightening the emotions and feelings of his main actors. His fiction breathes life into buildings, streets, establishments, airports, train stations and a long list of other settings.
The director of Volver turned the city into a film set, using to advantage real locations recognizable to his audience and turning some spots into must-visit centres of pilgrimage for his fans. Touring these precincts involves venturing into Almodóvar’s passionate, architectural world, by way of an alternative tourist guide to Madrid. We now retrace some of the most emblematic spots on a route which you can round off by viewing the films directed by the creator of Women on the Verge of a Nervous Breakdown and jotting down new sites in your Almodovarian logbook.
Chicote Museum and La Bobia
One of the two bars that appear in Almodóvar’s films is the Chicote Museum, a chic cocktail bar with an eventful history sited on Madrid’s iconic Gran Vía. It opened in 1930 and its premises have been graced by a considerable number of contemporary stars and Hollywood classics, too. Its interior features in one of the main scenes of Broken Embraces, starring Blanca Portillo. La Bobia is another legendary meeting point in Madrid. It is hard by El Rastro flea market and was once a hotspot of La Movida (The Madrilenian scene). It was actually during those heady times that Almodóvar decided to set the opening scene of Labyrinth of Passion in La Bobia. The movie’s cast was headed by Imanol Arias and Cecilia Roth.
Cuartel del Conde Duque
A must-visit venue to see the spot where one of the Manchegan filmmaker’s most famous scenes was shot – when Carmen Maura takes a night-time shower with a hose in one of his masterpieces, Law of Desire. The scene was filmed in the doorway of the Cuartel del Conde Duque, one of Madrid’s largest and oldest palaces (it was built in 1717), which also boasts a highly valuable cultural and historical endowment. What’s more, once you’ve taken the snapshot de rigueur to relive Almodóvar’s shot, you can go inside and visit it, as it has been turned into a cultural centre featuring various temporary exhibitions throughout the year.
The M-30 Apartment Blocks
Pedro Almodóvar did not restrict himself to capturing only Madrid’s well-known city centre – he also turned his gaze to the suburbs. He did so in one of his best movies, the iconic What Have I Done to Deserve This? in which a long-suffering Carmen Maura is going through hell. She plays a woman who lives in one of the apartment blocks lining the M-30 motorway, a working-class residential area in the district of Moratalaz.
The Segovia Viaduct
One of the natural settings Almodóvar has used most often, both at the beginning of his career and even today. It appears in both Matador and the very recent I'm So Excited. In the latter, Paz Vega stars in an amusing scene shot against this backdrop. The Segovia Viaduct is located in Calle Bailén, near the Royal Palace, and is one of Madrid’s best known bridges.
Be sure to tour these Almodovarian settings – book your Vueling to Madrid here.
Text by Xavi Sánchez for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
more infoThe Ria de Muros e Noia , the Port of Santiago de Compostela
The Ria de Muros e Noia is one of the Galicia region’s least built-up coastal areas, and also one of the most beautiful. Fishing boats landing delicious, shellfish, white sandy beaches with good surfing, all framed by green hills with a riot of vegetation –it’s definitely worth a visit. Here is a route you might consider.
Mt. Louro and the Xarfas Lagoon
Starting from the northern extreme of the estuary, between the Costa da Morte and Muros, you can stand atop Louro mountain, a 241-metre high granite block, and feast on the views of the Ria de Muros e Noia and the Lagoa de Xarfas with its fabulous Area Maior beach. The surrounding –hills, dunes, beach and the lagoon—boast a wealth of flora and fauna. There’s even an observatory for watching migratory birds.
Muros
Heading south we come to the town of Muros, founded in the 10th C. , and now featuring modest fishermen’s houses next to lordly mansions from bygone times. A stroll the town in the late afternoon can be timed to coincide with the arrival of the boats in the evening after a day’s fishing. The fish is put up for sale immediately on the dock, which is also an interesting spectacle to watch. And it means your shellfish dinner will be fresh and delicious. You won’t be disappointed by any of the restaurants under the arches near the water’s edge.
Just three kilometres away on the road to Noia is the Muíño de Mareas do Pozo do Cachón, a flour mill powered by the tides, built in the last quarter of the 19th C. There is also an interesting museum.
Noia
Noia is the biggest town in the estuary, and is only 36 km distant from Santiago. According to tradition, it was named for Noah, who is believed to have settled there after the Biblical flood. The city’s coat of arms shows an ark and a dove bearing an olive branch.
The old quarter features two churches built in the local version of the Gothic style: San Martiño (15th-16th C.) and Santa María a Nova (14th C.), the latter with a fascinating collection of about 500 tombstones. The 16th C. convent of San Francisco may also be visited, and the town is replete with stately mansions, such as the Casa da Xouba, the Pazo Dacosta (or Casa de Rivas), and the Pazo Forno do Rato. In the Obre district the pazos (mansions) of Pena de Ouro and Bergondo are worth a visit.
Some five kilometres from de Noia, across the Tambre, we come to the Ponte Nafonso, a bridge built during the 12th C. reign of King Alfonso IX of Leon and Galicia. It consists of a score of pointed arches lying on granite ashlars. The setting against the sea and mountains makes the sight of the bridge all the more spectacular
Castro de Baroña
On the south side of the estuary, next to the fishing village of Porto do Son, is the Castro de Baroña, an Iron Age Celtic settlement, with a score of round or oval stone cottages, once thatched, on a small peninsula. The archaeological remains and the wonderful landscape make it a worthwhile visit.
Corrubedo Dunes Nature Park
Between the Ria de Muros and Noia and that of Arousa, to the south, lies this lovely park with beaches, dunes, fresh- and salt-water lagoons, wetlands, and even megalithic remains. One of the main attractions is the “moving dune”, a restless pile of sand about a kilometre long , 200-300 meters wide, and 20 metres tall.
Some Further Recommendations
Though the quickest way to explore the Muros and Noia estuary is by the AC-550 coast road, we recommend side trips into the surrounding hills to get the best views.
For lodging there are numerous country inns and guest houses on both sides of the water, most of them in old and typical buildings. A particularly unusual place to stay is the hotel Pesquería del Tambre, in the Tambre river valley on the site of and old hydroelectric dam transformed into a nature hotel by the architect Antonio Palacios.
Check out our flights to Santiago de Compostela and head west to the sea!
Text: Isabel y Luis Comunicación
Pictures: Turismo de Galicia
more infoParis Weekend Getaway
Paris is the city of artists and art lovers, a source of inspiration for writers, the capital of fashion, a classic venue for romantic escapades, the epitome of a chic metropolis and a beacon for gourmets, as well as a long list of etceteras. It is one of those places that never let you down when you get to visit them and which has something for everyone, be that the shop windows of luxury stores in the Place Vendôme, enjoying a glass of wine in Le Marais or soaking up the ever-lively atmosphere in the square where the Pompidou Centre is located. Although – we have to admit – the city is a little on the dear side, it is, however, suitable for all audiences and all tastes, and well worth a getaway, however brief that may be.
Paris In Two Days?
We regret having to disappoint you but you cannot see Paris in all its splendour in one go – you simply have to return. However, you can squeeze quite a lot into a well-planned, 48-hour stint in the “City of Light”. The most important thing is to limit the number of areas and monuments you aim to visit, organise your time properly and avoid panicking if you can’t get it all done, which is likely to happen.
Worth Noting
Don’t be shy about being a guiri in Paris. We recommend you take the tourist bus as your first way of coming into contact with the city. As you won’t be able see all the sights on foot, the bus at least gives you an idea of what there is, and the places you see along the route will help you choose where you would like to go back for a visit.
For sightseers, one of the essential activities is touring the banks of the river Seine and its magnificent bridges. Not for nothing were they listed as World Heritage by UNESCO. So, strike out on a boat ride along the river – towards evening is the best time to see it.
To avoid long hikes across the city, be sure to book strategically placed and – above all – well connected accommodation.
Essentials
Following is a list of the places you should seriously consider visiting when planning your short stay in Paris:
- An infallible classic is a walk along the Champs Élysées, from the Tuileries Garden to the Arc de Triomphe. From there, you stroll down towards the Trocadero gardens and cross the Seine to behold the city’s best known landmark, the Eiffel Tower.
- Go to the Île de la Cité where you can see two other beacons of the French capital –Notre Dameand the Sainte-Chapelle, a Gothic jewel with a stunning interior, thanks to its spectacular stained glass windows. While you are in this area, head for the Pont Neuf, which affords splendid views of the city and the Seine.
- Stroll along the narrow streets of Montmartre, also known as the “artists’ quarter”, and go up to the church of Sacré Cœur. Nightlife addicts can take a night-time stroll through the Place Pigalle, famed for its cabarets, especially the popular Moulin Rouge.
- Art lovers will be hard put to make choices on such a short getaway. You can easily spend a whole morning wandering among the vast array of masterpieces in the Louvre, so we would be more inclined to head for the Rodin Museum,as your expectations will be amply met by both the exhibition areas and the museum gardens. The Musée d'Orsay, with its 19th-century artworks, the Musée de l'Orangerie, with its Impressionist paintings, and the Pompidou Centre, featuring an excellent repertory of modern and contemporary art, are also good options, as long as you restrict the areas you intend to visit.
- Have a walk around the Place Vendôme, its centre presided over by a column modelled after Trajan’s Column in Rome, where you will find the leading luxury stores in Paris.
- Trend-seekers would do well to include Le Marais in their itinerary, as this is the city’s trendy district par excellence. Here you will find the most fashionable designer stores, art galleries, bars and restaurants.
Succumb to the delights of one of Europe’s most beautiful cities – book your Vueling here.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by Sean X. Liu
more infoMenorca Aside From Its Beaches
Tufts of cloud fill the sky over Maó. As if acting on a customised script, the weather is adhering to the purpose of this article – to show that Menorca is a lot more than crowded beaches with crystal-clear water, beach bars for nourishing one’s tan and idyllic bike rides with one’s shirt open or wearing a vaporous skirt. When quite the opposite condition sets in, it is every bit as pleasurable – cuisine, culture and scenery. It’s starting to rain in Maó.
The raindrops, the size of five-cent coins, batter against the formidable vessels moored in the port of Maó. The island thrives precisely because of that huge reservoir of water connected to the Mediterranean. It is one of the largest natural harbours in the world – no less than five kilometres long! – surpassed only by Pearl Harbour and New York. It is not the best of days to admire the harbour views so, how about having breakfast until the storm abates? Centrally located, ensconced in one of the Menorcan capital’s legendary cream-coloured streets, lies Es Llonguet, the perfect café for reading away the time and, needless to say, savouring the establishment’s sweets and savouries – the rubiol de carn (meat turnover) or the llonguet de camot (sausage roll) will restore your strength to continue on your way.
A stone’s throw from Es Llonguet, in an area known as the “Fossar dels Anglesos”, lies the Ca n’Oliver art centre. Located in this erstwhile private home dating from the late-18th century, an old house now open to the public, is the Centre d’Art i d’Història Hernàndez Sanz, a reminder of the island’s British legacy. There, you can go up to the rooftop with its views over the city – just as well it’s only drizzling now. Once back in the street, we realise that the rain has stopped; the cobbles gleam as if freshly varnished by the puddles of water. Time to visit the recently remodelled Mercat des Peix Antic, the ideal spot for enjoying an aperitif or having lunch. And, come to think of it, before heading for Ciutadella, drop in at the magnificent patio in the Hotel Jardí de ses Bruixes. Then off to another point on the island.
A 45-minute drive from Maó, Ciutadella, Menorca’s “cultural capital”, is famous for its Fiestas de Sant Joan and its magnificent urban beaches. It is not easy to find accommodation in winter, but Sa Vinyeta is always a good option. After dropping off your bags, take a stroll along the promenade of ses voltes (stone arches on either side of the street) as far as the Cathedral of Santa Maria de Ciutadella, a 13th-century Balearic Gothic construction. From there, go and warm yourself up at the legendary Bar Imperi, on the corner of the Plaça dels Pins. And, before hitting the sack – tomorrow you’re off on an excursion – call in at the Jazzbah, located next to the tiny old fishing harbour, celebrated for its rissaga (tidal range of up to two metres). Open all year around, this wine bar is one of the city’s cultural hubs, boasting a regular concert schedule and karaoke sessions once a month.
Dawn brings a warm day, despite yesterday’s rains. Winter in Menorca holds some surprises, in this instance a good one. Before setting out for Cala Pilar, an area of pebble coves on the north of the island, get some provisions for the bereneta (mid-morning snack). The Pastisseria Moll, one of the oldest pastry shops on the island, is your best bet. Once in Cala Pilar, after rounding part of El Camí de Cavalls, a 100-kilometre GR footpath ringing the entire Menorcan coastline, it’s up to each individual whether or not to take the plunge in the Menorcan sea in mid-March.
After completing this leg of the route and before getting back to the grind, the best thing is to refuel at the Hogar del Pollo, in the centre of Ciutadella. This tavern run by Matías, an Argentinian resident in Menorca, breathes aromas from the world over – with genuine Argentine beef, the best Galician delicacies, scallop and shoulder of pork as the major temptations, and at affordable prices. If after this winter tour of Menorca you are still thirsting for typical local produce, swap the Hogar del Pollo for a visit to Cas Merino, located just behind the old fish market in the Plaça la Llibertat. Be sure to buy some ensaimadas to take home with you – whether in summer or winter, you can’t leave Menorca without one.
Text by Yeray S. Iborra for Los viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by Commons Wikipedia
more info