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10 Great Places in Chiado

Lisbon has that special magic of the cities that simply reek of history, that charm of the cities where so many things have happened and that offer so many ways to enjoy them. Lisbon, an intellectual and Bohemian city like few others in Europe, can be found at the mouth of the River Tagus on the coast of the Atlantic Ocean. The historic centre is built on seven hills, meaning that many of its streets are quite steep and that the three cable cars and one lift are very much appreciated by locals and tourists alike. Yes, the cable cars in Lisbon are truly special and give you the sensation of being in a city where things take their time and where being in a rush is not something the city’s inhabitants are fond of. Prepare yourself for enjoyment, relaxation and a wealth of experiences as you stroll through the delightful districts of this city.

The route we suggest here will take you through the district of Chiado.

Chiado is located between the famous Bairro Alto and La Baixa. Almost everyone who has been to Lisbon before remembers the district of Chiado for the statue of the Portuguese poet, Fernando Pessoa, sat at a table on the terrace of the Café A Brasileira. However, Chiado has much more to offer: businesses, cafés dating back to the early 20th Century and old shops. Chiado is the part of Lisbon where writers used to meet in the late 19th and early 20th Centuries, meaning that it has a certain aura of intellectualism (similar to Saint-Germain-Des-Pres in Paris) well-earned for having witnessed many literary geniuses walk its streets.

Here are ten places for getting to know the very best Chiado has to offer.

1. Young people gather at the Mirador de Santa Catarina for a drink at the feet of Adamastor while they observe the sunset as the day gives way to the Lisbon night life.

2. Starting you night in Chiado at Bicaense is never a bad idea. One of the coolest venues in Portuguese night life, this place has style, lacks pretension and offers a relaxed atmosphere. DJs and drinks to begin the night before heading over to the liveliest part of the Barrio Alto.

3. One interesting aspect of Chiado is Caza Das Vellas Loreto. This candle shop offers little in the way of cool and is nothing special if you are looking for unique places in the Portuguese capital but that is precisely what makes it special. If you happen to be in Chiado, take a look around this candle shop – they come in all shapes and sizes.

4. Cafe A Brasileira is the place you simply must visit in Chiado if you are a fan of poetry, literature and/or Pessoa. It is a legendary café and meeting place for the literary community in Lisbon. There is one table that has a seated statue of Fernando Pessoa. You have to see it.

5. Try a saikirinha (sake mixed with kiwi) on the chill out terrace on the top floor of the Hotel Bairro Alto. This is where all the beautiful people in Lisbon meet. It was recommended to us by one of the most influential bands in Lisbon, Buraka Som Sistema. Absoutely essential if you want to know what the local people get up to in Lisbon at night.

6. Perfect for enjoying a nice steak. Bohemian atmosphere, busy, happy. Treat your stomach and eat at La Brasserie De L’Entrecôte. Your stomach will thank you for it.

7. If your budget won’t stretch to an excellent steak or if you prefer to eat something lighter, theRestaurante-Lounge Storik offers wonderful international cuisine that will give something to remember from your visit to Lisbon.

8. Another interesting place in Chiado in terms of shopping and somewhere that is 100% Portuguese is A Vida Portuguesa. Here you will find a little bit of everything Portuguese: embroidery, pencils, traditional Portuguese products, soaps, icons of saints, etc.

9. The Cafe No Chiado is the perfect spot for a chat or reading the paper. You can also enjoy a bite to eat if that’s what you’re after. An oasis of peace and tranquillity to be enjoyed alone or in good company.

10. At the Teatro Mário Viegas, they perform the best and newest pieces from the world of Portuguese theatre. If you like the theatre, you should go see a show.

These places make you feel like going yourself, right? Check out our flights for a short break in Lisbon here.

 

 

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Santiago de Compostela in 10 Takes

Do you dream of taking home the best photos of Santiago? Buying postcards and books might be the quickest solution, but, if you enjoy taking your own pictures, you shouldn’t hesitate to embark on this eminently photogenic route through Compostela. Here are 10 of its most emblematic subjects.

1. Praza do Obradoiro

We admit you’d be hard put to capture its entirety, as it covers 7,700 square metres. Surrounded by monumental buildings, snapping a whole picture of the Praza do Obradoiro is no mean feat. A wide-angle shot of the portico of the Colexio de San Xerome will yield an image of the Cathedral – cloister and towers included – as well as the Pazo de Xelmírez, the front of the Hostal dos Reis Católicos and the Paxo de Raxoi to the left.

2. Cathedral Facade

The centre of the square is a reasonable viewpoint, as are the arcades of the Pazo de Raxoi, to stand square in front of the Cathedral, if you have a fish-eye lens. But, if you’re looking to take full-length photos with a normal lens, the trick is to go down the stairs of the Rúa de Raxoi, where you get a complete view of the facade with the towers. Ideal for group photos.

3. Goal and Excitement

While its monumental beauty tends to hog everyone’s gaze, the Praza do Obradoiro and its surroundings are indeed the most intensely exciting spots in all Santiago de Compostela. The arrival of pilgrims and the display of satisfaction at having achieved their goal are commonplace scenes in this privileged setting.

4. Bird’s-Eye View

The ascent to the Cathedral Rooftops, 30 metres above the Praza do Obradoiro, affords some of the best views of the squares surrounding the Cathedral, as well as revealing its architectural features and the rooftops and chimney stacks in the old town. The tapestry gallery in the cloister, which can be visited using your museum ticket, provides another fine perspective of the Obradoiro, and of the cityscape south of the Cathedral.

5. The Photogenic Quintana

The stark bareness of the Plaza de la Quintana takes on special significance with the interplay of light on the stone. Noon yields snapshots of the granite in all its hardness. Late afternoon throws the shadows of the spires and lantern of the Cathedral on the wall of the Convento de Antealtares. Night lighting turns the surface into a quasi aquatic medium, like some silent fish tank. You can also get good shots from the Casa da Conga arcades.

6. A Tiny Playhouse

Secluded and motley, the Plaza de las Platerías and its stairs provide splendid group snapshots all day long, thanks to the south-facing portal. In a low-angle shot, the horses on the fountain will seem to graze the Torre del Reloj. To capture the whole square, you have to backpedal to the entrance to the Rúa do Vilar. If you have a wide-angle lens, use the towers to frame the shot. Night light endows the Casa del Cabildo and the stepped cloister tower with a special relief when seen from the church door.

7. Streets and Towers

The rúas (streets) in the monumental site are rich showcases of typical Galician architecture. The Torre de las Campanas or Belltower can be photographed from the middle and upper stretches of the Rúa do Franco. The Rúa do Vilar, flush with the Airas Nunes Café, provides a classic view of the arcades and main facades, with the Torre del Reloj or Clocktower in the background. The parallel street, Rúa Nova, affords a picture postcard view of the porticoed houses around the tower of the Church of Santa María Salomé.

8. The Bountiful Market

Getting back to the historic core, the Mercado de Abastos or market is abuzz with activity, particularly first thing in the morning, suggesting detailed portraits of myriad people and gastronomic delights. Between the green of peppers and turnip greens, the orange of the velvet crabs and the blue of the lobsters, your pictures will look almost aromatic.

9. A Park With a View

You get to Bonaval Park through the Porta do Camiño, between the CGAC and the Convento de Bonaval. There, Álvaro Siza and Isabel Aguirre designed a succession of platforms and terraces which are a delight for any photographer. They are highlighted by the shadows cast by trees, the ruins of old monastic dwellings, the spring, the old cemetery with its lone cypress tree… Late afternoon light is magical, revealing splendid views of the monumental precinct with back lighting. The best time is in autumn, when the landscape is carpeted with yellow, red and brown foliage and branches become denuded, revealing towers and sturdy chimneys in the distance. Extraordinary views of the city from its carballeira and the neighbouring Rúa de Bonaval, which in the afternoon reflects the sun’s rays like no other street.

10. Walkway To A Historic City

By proceeding down the Avenida de Xoán XXIII as far as the transport terminal you get a contrasting image between the contemporary layout of the long steel marquee and the back facade of the Convento de San Francisco. The pergola grows smaller as you approach the monumental area, creating the optical effect of having “entered” the historic city.

How long can you afford to put off enjoying such a beautiful setting, Come on – free up some space on your smartphone and start packing. Check out our flights here.

Text and images: Santiago de Compostela Turismo

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Where the City Goes into Pause Mode

In spring, Barcelona becomes a hysterical city. Any idea of making the most of a weekend or sightseeing in the city turns into a pulsating, 1,000-rpm power tour. Downtown fills with end-of-year student trippers skipping through the streets in search of the perfect souvenir, anachronistic sightseers clutching at maps trying to ascertain points of interest, Asians taking selfies, their outstretched arm included, tour guides holding umbrellas and loudspeakers and, willy-nilly, the odd local tramp who peeps out and then, unnerved, retreats with a bewildered expression. The collective hysteria is centred on the Gothic Quarter, but its shock waves reach the Barceloneta, the Born and the Eixample. Here, finding a quiet corner to recover one’s strength before sallying forth into the streets again seems to be an impossible feat. But, it is not – here are some of our favourite spots for going into pause mode:

If you’re the kind that goes for design, at Vinçon (Pg de Gràcia, 96) you’ll find an endless array of exquisite decorative items – all top drawer! You’d be hard put to enter Vinçon without getting lost in the corridors crammed with unusual designer items, but it’s certainly rewarding not to. If you manage to locate the staircase leading up to the first floor, you’ll be surprised to come across the lounge of an old Modernist house. Preserved in this extension to the store are the ceilings, walls, flooring and chimney of a house that once belonged to the renowned early-20th-century Catalan painter, Ramón Casas. On the far side of the floor you come to a terrace which is a must-see. The inner court of the building affords some unusual views of the back of La Pedrera, one of Antoni Gaudí’s architectural masterpieces. You will also be able to survey a typical inner court of a whole street block characteristic of the Eixample district, complete with washing hanging out to dry, colourful blinds and inviting terraces. Noteworthy are the centuries-old trees piercing the terrace paving and a fairytale house at the end of the store patio. And, while the pleasure of going into a store without a consumerist purpose is growing on us, we might as well make a foray into Servei Estació, at Calle Aragó 270, on the corner of another of Gaudí’s famous buildings, the Casa Batlló. This store is quite an eye-opener, what with its compendium of DIY items, party decorations, stationery… in short, yet another maze of tasteful objects where the first floor is well worth seeing. If you go up to the terrace, you will be treated to further views of an Eixample patio and, once again, a different angle on Gaudí’s outlandish building. Here, a selfie is de rigueur.

In the heart of the Gothic Quarter lies one of the city’s most touristy streets, the Calle Boquería. The ground floor premises of these beautiful buildings, along what was once one of Barcelona’s most stately streets, are now given over to souvenir shops, paella-and-sangría eateries and cheap hotels. In the old days almost all buildings had a patio at the back. Nowadays, this area has either been excised or is inaccessible. However, via the Hotel Petit Palace Boqueria you can gain access to one such patio which is now part of a network of public parks in the city, a veritable backwater of tranquility and a pleasant surprise for tourists and locals alike. Another palatial mansion that belonged to the 18th-century Barcelona nobility now houses the Antic Teatre, a creative, experimental centre of the scenic arts which stages innovative performances outside conventional theatre circles. While you’ll certainly find their shows surprising, the interior garden concealed on the first floor is even more so. It is part of the theatre bar, which is open all day and has neighbourhood prices, so having a beer while you’re sunning yourself without paying through the nose is really possible in this magical enclave in the Born quarter. It is located just a few metres from the Modernist and very modern Palau de la Música Catalana. Discovering this building is guaranteed to boost your endomorphins to the limit.

These spots, where the city stands still, are havens of peace and quiet that should be confided to once closest friends only, in order to preserve their tranquility in the long run. If the crowds eventually descend upon them, we will have to seek out other oases, although this will be an increasingly more difficult task to accomplish. But the endless city that is Barcelona is unlikely to disappoint.

If you enjoyed this route and are eager to see more, head over to Insòlitbarcelona, a website dedicated to unusual itineraries in Barcelona. What are you waiting for to discover these spots. Check out our flights here.

Text by Insòlitbarcelona

Images by Insòlitbarcelona

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In the Footsteps of Jack the Ripper

We have all heard about Jack The Ripper, surely the first media serial killer in history. His dark legacy has been an inexhaustible source of narrative material for over a century. Those mournful events have spawned both literary marvels and graphic novels such as From Hell, by Alan Moore and Eddie Campbell, in addition to movies and TV series and even the odd opera. There may be a dose of morbidity involved in the interest aroused by anything relating to the subject. However, what stokes the flames is undoubtedly the fact that the perpetrator of those crimes has never been found, sparking a host of theories on the matter.

While the identity of the culprit remains unclear, what is known is the names of his victims and the spots where their bodies were found. Theme tours are based in Whitechapel, the scene of those atrocities. In the late-19th century, the district was a veritable hotbed of crooks and a limitless breeding ground for venereal diseases. Fortunately, it is now a salutary area and one of the major arty districts in London, with the Whitechapel Art Gallery at the forefront. In fact, it has become a must for day trippers, thanks to its second-hand market, which runs up to the Whitechapel Market, where you can pick up bargains from Monday to Saturday in over 80 street stalls, selling anything from fruit to electronics, rugs and jewellery. It is open from 8 a.m. to 6 p.m.

The Dark Route

Regarding the question, Who was Jack the Ripper?, you probably won’t find out after a tour of the area, but you will get an idea of what it was like there in the year 1888, when the deeds took place. Various tours can be joined in Whitechapel. Following are details of some of the areas you will visit if you dare to relive the horrific story.

Osborn Street

This is where the first body of the two under investigation was found, although it wasn’t among the “canonical five” – of all the cases related to the Ripper, five are considered to be canonical, as they have several traits in common. The victim in question was Emma Elizabeth Smith, a prostitute who was attacked and raped in the street on 3 April 1888. She was found dead, with her ears cut off. Currently sited on this street is one of the most fashionable basement spaces in London, Apples and Pears, a designer bar with Japanese decor which is a cocktail bar by day, and a club by night. It has been graced by the likes of Kate Moss and David Beckham.

The Old Truman Brewery

This is where the second victim, Annie Chapman, was found. Over the last fifteen years, the 10 acres of derelict buildings from the former Truman Brewery have been refurbished as offices, retail outlets and venues for leisure and events, as well as art hatcheries. It is now a thriving complex of creative businesses, independent stores, malls, markets, bars and restaurants. At weekends it becomes the nerve centre of flea markets and tapas bars. Business and leisure combine to perfection here.

Durward Street (formerly Buck’s Row)

This is where the body of the 43-year-old Mary Ann Nichols – the first of the canonical five – turned up. The bodies of these women had their throats slit and presented mutilations on the abdomen and genital area, with facial disfigurement or a missing organ. Such was the modus operandi of the macabre butcher.

Mitre Square

On 30 September 1888, the body of Catherine Eddowes, aged 46, was found. She had a slashed throat and a large, deep wound on the abdomen. Her left kidney was missing. The police found part of her bloodied apron at the entrance to a house on Goulston Street. Also murdered on the same day at Dutfield’s Yard – now Henriques Street – was the 44-year-old Elizabeth Strice. Death was caused by an incision on the left side of the throat, which severed her carotid artery. A postcard was received by the Central News Agency by the alleged culprit, who claimed responsibility for the crime.

The Ten Bells Pub

Jack the Ripper and some of his victims are thought to have frequented various pubs in the area, notably The Ten Bells (84 Commercial Street), which has remained open on the same premises since 1752. It lies just a few yards from the Liverpool Street Underground station.

And Also…

Other landmarks you will see include Tower Hill Underground Station, the place chosen by Scotland Yard and the City of London Police to start their beat in search of the culprit, and St Botolph’s Church, a favoured haunt where the prostitutes of the time touted for customers. More information about the tour.

Whitechapel now stands for an alternative setting in the heart of the city. It is both classical and avant-garde, an area with a large number of mosques and such historic buildings as the Royal London Hospital. We urge you to come and discover it, even if you’re not particularly interested in Jack the Ripper. It’s a good opportunity to explore the streets of London’s famous East End, a charismatic district full of history and stories, like the one about the celebrated “elephant man”, as well as the Spitalfields and Petticoat Lane street markets andthe world famous Brick Lane, a street with a marked Asian presence, full of Indian and Pakistani restaurants, at really affordable prices. (There are menus for six pounds which include two or three dishes to choose from, plus rice and a drink.)

Why wait to discover it all? Check out our flights here.

 

Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación

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