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Père Lachaise. Celebrity cemetery.

Today´s route takes us into one of the most bucolic places of the French capital: Père Lachaise cemetery , the largest one in Paris and one of the best known and most visited in the world.

We left a little of the bustle of the Parisian streets and headed to the twentieth district, east of the city, particularly at number sixteen Rue du Repos (resting Street), where we find the main entrance to the cemetery.

Upon entering, we feel that the place has a special energy, and walk quietly through their streets is a wonderful thing. Curiously, we will say that Parisians use it as a park, so it is not surprising to find locals strolling, reading, drawing ... Or even watching tourists with their maps in search of the most famous tombs.

And like good tourists that we are, we did what we were supposed to do and bought a map of the camp, which helped us not to be lost and to locate the graves of many celebrities who are buried there.

I have to confess that, even before arriving we had already chosen some tombs that we wanted to visit, we were surprised by the large number of known characters that lie among its more than 70,000 graves.

Among the personalities who inhabit this posthumous Walk of Fame, are Oscar Wilde, Edith Piaf, Marcel Proust, Molière, Maria Callas, Chopin and Isadora Duncan.

One of the most visited places, is the legendary leader of The Doors, Jim Morrison, and it is a pilgrimage place. There you can read the inscription "Kata ton Daimona eaytoy" (according to his own mind). A few years ago, you could see a bust of the singer, but it was stolen and never recovered. Now, instead, find a security guard to prevent further vandalism.

One of the most famous landmarks is the Mur des Federes in tribute to the dead of the Commune of Paris from 21 to 28 May 1871 or memorial tribute to the French volunteers in the International Brigades in Spain between 1936 and 1939.

Père Lachaise Cemetery is very well preserved, although there are areas where the trees seem to gain ground to tombs.

One of the most beautiful mausoleums is home to the love story of Abelard and Heloise.

However, we also find creepy sculptures that horrorized us: winged children in memory of those gone too soon, or some with their faces covered by the anonymity of those who rest there.

It is getting dark at Père Lachaise and silence would absolutely if not for the incessant cawing of crows flying over our heads. To make matters worse, in this Halloween postcard, we realized that tens of smug cats have started appearing all over the place ...

Call us superstitious, but I think it's time to leave.

By Nadia Polo

Pictures by Ricce and Rama

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Bacalhau, broth and guts

Porto welcomes its visitors with the best of its rich cuisine. It is placed in an exceptional location, on the banks of the Duero and bathed by the Atlantic Ocean. That favours that in Porto you can eat good seafood, taste the best wines and delight your assorted pastries.

You can find restaurants to suit all tastes and all pockets. You can eat very well for only 5 € in its houses of meals, or in Michelin-starred restaurants, like The Yeatman.

One thing to consider when you sit in a restaurant is that the appetizer being served first, and without asking, is not a present. It has to be paid. This leads sometimes to misunderstandings.

Also, it's common to start a meal at any restaurant with a soup, preparing rich and in many different ways.

One of the areas with more choice of restaurants is Ribeira. It is a very lively place, from which you have the best views over the city. Here you can come to eat the grilled octopus or cod Chez Lapin and "Guts Oporto" da Filha da Mãe Preta.

In the Rua de Aviz there were many of the bookstores in the city. Today it is a hive of trends. Among the new art galleries we found the Book restaurant, where once was sited Livraria Aviz. You will see that all around this place reminds its past as a library.

Wine tourism is one of the best options for the city and its delicacies. To do this it is advisable to cross to the other side of the river, where we can find wineries like Vila Nova de Gai. On this side of the river you can also taste many recipes for cod, which are so famous throughout Portugal, El Bacalhoeiro (Avenida Diogo Leite, 74).

The Café Santiago has a good reputation in serving the best francesinhas, one classic of Oporto´s cuisine. You know that it is true when you see the big queues at their gates in order to get one in Rua Passos Manuel 226. Francesinha is a slice of bread filled with different types of sausage and meat, and covered with melted cheese and bathed in hot sauce. You can imagine that with these kind of ingredients it is a very heavy dish that will fill you with lots of energy; even more if you accompany it, as usual, with a few chips and a cold beer.

In order to know what products are popular in Porto, approach the Bolhao market. It was built in 1914, and it is one of the emblematic buildings to live day by day of tripeiros (gutties). Curious adjective, right? Citizens of Oporto are know tripeiros because, during preparations for the conquest of Ceuta in 1415, they had to turn to the issue all the meat and keep only the gut. Now, as tripas à moda do Porto is in the dish in town!

Francesinha by jfcfar| Tripas a moda do Porto by MariaCartas

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Wiener Schnitzel. The emperor’s dish.

One of the most representative meals in Viennese gastronomy is wiener schnitzel (or Viennese escalope). In fact, is the national food, even is originally from Austria, actually.

Is a common recipe in many countries: in Spain is known as San Jacobo or cachopo, also seen as the Japanese tonkatsu, the Argentinian escalope or the Italian cotoletta, among other examples.

The origin has become an intense debate among culinary historians. Most of the agree to point the origin in Spain, where it was introduced by Arab traders, who already covered meat on bread during the Middle Age.

Then we have the legend, which says it was imported from the Italian "costoletta milanesa" by marshal Joseph Radetzky, who sent the recipe to Franz Joseph I of Austria. They said he liked it so much that he incoroporate it to the Austrian gastronomy under the name of winer schnitzel.

Therefore, many countries claim the origin. This happens often for any new invention even sometimes, what happens is that it appears in different countries simultaneously, a each country looks for old gastronomy books to claim the origin.

However, there’s no doubt that is a delicious and crunchy dish, wanted by any tourists that arrives in the city.

To prepare it, a thin slice of veal is softened with a mallet, then is dipped in flour, egg and breadcrumbs, and finally fried in butter. It’s served with potatoes, salad and lemon slices and seasoned with vinaigrette.

Generally, these dishes are easy to cook and delicious, but not so glamorous. That’s not the case with schnitzel, presented as an haute cuisine specialty. It might be because of the elegant way Viennese people cooks it.

Even the veal is the main ingredient for the classic version of this dish, pigmeat is often used and is more popular. There is also a version made of chicken or a veggie made of tofu, seitan or soy.

In Vienna you can try this meal anywhere in the city centre. This is a list with some of our favorites so you don’t leave the city without trying the Viennese schnitzel.

Figlmüller
Wollzeile 5, | Bäckerstraße 6, Vienna

Schnitzelwirt
Neubaugasse 52, Vienna

Gasthaus Poschl
Weihburggasse 17, 1010, Vienna

Strandcafé Wien
Florian-Berndl-Gasse 2,1220, Vienna

Café Einstein
Rathausplatz 4, 1010 Vienna

There is not only wiener schnitzel in Austria gastronomy. Even it’s a little country, it has a long culinary tradition, mixing many European specialties. You shouldn’t miss a chance to try more typical dishes like tafelspitz (boiled beef), milling trout (Forelle nach Müllerin Art), Kaiserschmarrn (sweet), Palatschinken (Crêpes), Apfelstrudel (apple cake) or Sacher cake. Yummy!

Picture by Kobako

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Gazi. The trendiest neighbourhood in Athens.

Full of life, Gazi neighbourhood (Γκάζι) is one of the most cheerful in Athens. This is the place to taste the nightlife of the Greek city, a labyrinth of narrow streets full of multitudes to enjoy a great offer of leisure.

This was the first neighbourhood hosting gay-friendly clubs and, after time, became the trendiest place in Athens, with an energy that cannot be seen anywhere else in the city and its own rhythm.

In Gazi there are the modern cocktail bars, night pubs, new cafés and restaurants, also museums, galleries and theatres. The main spot in the neighbourhood is an old gas factory that was reopened in 1999 as an elegant arts centre named Tecnópolis.

Gazi means exactly that, gas factory, and is at this factory where there are exhibitions, concerts and festivals regularly. The building is from 1862 and includes cultural spaces, a big patio, the María Callas Museum, the city radio and a cosy café.

This might be one of the few gas factories that remain after World War II. The reason is that is near the Acropolis and the old archaeological setting of Keramikos and the nazis, who were into classic culture, were afraid to bomb this area.

At night, the relaxed cafés of Gazi Square and the streets around, like Iakou, Persephonis, Dekeleon and Voutadon, become modern bars and restaurants.

Go to Mamaca's in Persephonis street. It’s a classic around here, the place to eat great Greek food. At the same street, The Butcher Shop, an excellent psistaria, typical Greek tavern specialized in roast and grilled meats. Both restaurants have tables in the streets.

In Vitonos there is Thalata, a great restaurant specialized in seafood. Even it’s a little bit expensive for the Greek standard, the quality is great and you won’t feel like you’re in a fake place made for tourists. Walls are painted with the beautiful colours of the Cyclades and you can get the advice from the owner to get the freshest products.

In Athiri you have a great weekly menu, made of gourmet courses, for about 25€. The restaurant was awarded several times so is a safe option, with fresh products, organic olive oil and homemade desserts. Even the bread is homemade!

To go for a drink, Gazarte is the most famous place to go. Getting a cocktail at the roof, with great views over the Acropolis, is so refreshing. There is also a cinema, a restaurant, a bookstore and a room where there’s live music scheduled daily.

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