While Barcelona is a modern, cosmopolitan city, traces of its medieval past are very much in evidence. Buildings in the old quarter attest to a glorious past, thronging with Crusaders, Italian merchants, the nobility and a powerful clergy. Scattered in between Baroque, Neoclassical and Modernist constructions, a host of Gothic buildings are still standing, notably the Cathedral, the Basilica of Santa Maria del Mar and the Palau de la Generalitat. But, what many Barceloners are unaware of is that old Barcelona also boasts a considerable number of exquisite Romanesque complexes which have survived to the present in excellent condition.

Romanesque in the Heart of Plaza de Catalunya

Few Barceloners suspect that one of the city’s leading Romanesque monasteries is sited hard by the central Plaza de Catalunya. I am referring to Santa Anna, a church and former monastery dating from the 12th century, featuring a cloister and a chapterhouse which still serves parishioners. The building was designed by the architect, Ramón Amadeu, but construction work continued for three centuries thereafter, making for a marked amalgam of various Romanesque and Gothic styles, although the former is more in evidence. To reach the church from Plaza de Catalunya, go along Calle Rivadeneyra (next to the Hard Rock Cafe) or Calle de Santa Anna.

12th-Century El Raval

Pressing on with our itinerary, take Calle Santa Anna towards La Rambla and walk down this colourful boulevard as far as Calle Hospital. Turning right along this street takes you into the heart of the multicultural El Raval quarter, graced with such striking buildings as the MACBA, the Palau Güell and the Biblioteca de Catalunya. This route leads into Plaça del Pedró, an important square in that standing in its centre is the Santa Eulàlia Fountain, regarded as one of Barcelona’s oldest monuments. Also in the square is the 12th-century Romanesque Church of Sant Llàtzer. The latter was once part of a leper hospital which operated from the 12th to the 15th century. Since being deconsecrated in 1913 and following a number of refurbishments, it has since been in use as a secular building.

Still in El Raval, the Calle de la Riereta leads into Calle de Sant Pau, which houses one of the finest Romanesque landmarks in Barcelona, the Monastery of Sant Pau del Camp. The building dates from the 12th century, although the precinct is thought to have been founded in the 9th century by Wilfred II, who is buried there. The monument also has a small, 13th-century cloister which is noteworthy for its storied capitals depicting hunting scenes, warriors, sirens, animals and plant motifs. Still standing in the monastery garden is the former abbot’s residence, built from the 13th to 14th century and extended in the 18th century. Before entering, be sure to look at the facade, as the doorway is flanked by two columns with Visigoth capitals, while in the tympanum we see Christ with SS Peter and Paul and an ancient inscription, which invite us to enter.

To Sant Pere de les Puel·les

After touring El Raval, we return to La Rambla along Calle Nou de la Rambla with its striking little palace, known as the Palau Güell, the work of de Antoni Gaudí. We forge ahead as far as Barcelona Cathedral, next door to which is the Chapel of Santa Llúcia, The chapel is located in the corner of the Cathedral cloister and has a doorway onto the street. It was built in late-Romanesque style in the second half of the 13th century and originally served as the Episcopal Palace of Barcelona. This is a good moment to visit the Gothic Cathedral, take a seat on one of the pews and relax.

The next stop on our itinerary is the Born quarter, one of the liveliest in the city, with a lot of cultural activities on offer. Well worth seeing is the Palau de la Música Catalana and El Born Market archaeological site. On the opposite side of Via Laietana you can take Calle de la Bòria as far as Plazoleta de Marcús, a small square where the Marcús Chapel is located. A 12th-century construction, it was sited alongside the old Roman road out of Barcelona. Many of the original elements on the facade have been preserved, as well as its Lombardic arches. Strolling further into the quarter you come across the last stop on our itinerary, the Royal Monastery of Sant Pere de les Puel·les, of which only the parish church has survived to the present. Founded in the 5th century, it has undergone major alterations over time, although part of the Greek cross structure is still intact, as are the Corinthian capitals surmounted by a 12th-century dome. The so-called “bird campanile” is also from the Romanesque period. This monument is key to an understanding of Barcelona in the Middle Ages.

Eager to discover Barcelona’s Romanesque past? Book your Vueling here.

Text and images by Aleix Palau for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

In spring, Barcelona becomes a hysterical city. Any idea of making the most of a weekend or sightseeing in the city turns into a pulsating, 1,000-rpm power tour. Downtown fills with end-of-year student trippers skipping through the streets in search of the perfect souvenir, anachronistic sightseers clutching at maps trying to ascertain points of interest, Asians taking selfies, their outstretched arm included, tour guides holding umbrellas and loudspeakers and, willy-nilly, the odd local tramp who peeps out and then, unnerved, retreats with a bewildered expression. The collective hysteria is centred on the Gothic Quarter, but its shock waves reach the Barceloneta, the Born and the Eixample. Here, finding a quiet corner to recover one’s strength before sallying forth into the streets again seems to be an impossible feat. But, it is not – here are some of our favourite spots for going into pause mode:

If you’re the kind that goes for design, at Vinçon (Pg de Gràcia, 96) you’ll find an endless array of exquisite decorative items – all top drawer! You’d be hard put to enter Vinçon without getting lost in the corridors crammed with unusual designer items, but it’s certainly rewarding not to. If you manage to locate the staircase leading up to the first floor, you’ll be surprised to come across the lounge of an old Modernist house. Preserved in this extension to the store are the ceilings, walls, flooring and chimney of a house that once belonged to the renowned early-20th-century Catalan painter, Ramón Casas. On the far side of the floor you come to a terrace which is a must-see. The inner court of the building affords some unusual views of the back of La Pedrera, one of Antoni Gaudí’s architectural masterpieces. You will also be able to survey a typical inner court of a whole street block characteristic of the Eixample district, complete with washing hanging out to dry, colourful blinds and inviting terraces. Noteworthy are the centuries-old trees piercing the terrace paving and a fairytale house at the end of the store patio. And, while the pleasure of going into a store without a consumerist purpose is growing on us, we might as well make a foray into Servei Estació, at Calle Aragó 270, on the corner of another of Gaudí’s famous buildings, the Casa Batlló. This store is quite an eye-opener, what with its compendium of DIY items, party decorations, stationery… in short, yet another maze of tasteful objects where the first floor is well worth seeing. If you go up to the terrace, you will be treated to further views of an Eixample patio and, once again, a different angle on Gaudí’s outlandish building. Here, a selfie is de rigueur.

In the heart of the Gothic Quarter lies one of the city’s most touristy streets, the Calle Boquería. The ground floor premises of these beautiful buildings, along what was once one of Barcelona’s most stately streets, are now given over to souvenir shops, paella-and-sangría eateries and cheap hotels. In the old days almost all buildings had a patio at the back. Nowadays, this area has either been excised or is inaccessible. However, via the Hotel Petit Palace Boqueria you can gain access to one such patio which is now part of a network of public parks in the city, a veritable backwater of tranquility and a pleasant surprise for tourists and locals alike. Another palatial mansion that belonged to the 18th-century Barcelona nobility now houses the Antic Teatre, a creative, experimental centre of the scenic arts which stages innovative performances outside conventional theatre circles. While you’ll certainly find their shows surprising, the interior garden concealed on the first floor is even more so. It is part of the theatre bar, which is open all day and has neighbourhood prices, so having a beer while you’re sunning yourself without paying through the nose is really possible in this magical enclave in the Born quarter. It is located just a few metres from the Modernist and very modern Palau de la Música Catalana. Discovering this building is guaranteed to boost your endomorphins to the limit.

These spots, where the city stands still, are havens of peace and quiet that should be confided to once closest friends only, in order to preserve their tranquility in the long run. If the crowds eventually descend upon them, we will have to seek out other oases, although this will be an increasingly more difficult task to accomplish. But the endless city that is Barcelona is unlikely to disappoint.

If you enjoyed this route and are eager to see more, head over to Insòlitbarcelona, a website dedicated to unusual itineraries in Barcelona. What are you waiting for to discover these spots. Check out our flights here.

Text by Insòlitbarcelona

Images by Insòlitbarcelona

Belgium is a comparatively small land which has nevertheless made an inestimable contribution to the world of gastronomy – chips, waffles, chocolate and, very especially, beer. Here, over 450 varieties are made, whether by trusted traditional methods or using new technologies, yielding flavours that range from the classical to the most exotic. While the barley brew is a religion in Belgium, for beer enthusiasts Brussels is the hideout of some of the best taverns – and veritable places of pilgrimage – on the old continent.

A La Mort Subite
(Rue Montagne-aux-Herbes Potagères, 7)

Opened in 1910, A La Mort Subite is one of those spots oblivious to the passage of time. It boasts an exquisite beer selection, but I can recommend the one named after the establishment, Mort Subite, with its raspberry aroma. Its appearance and elegance on the palate have earned it the sobriquet of “the beer world’s pink champagne”.

Delirium Café
(Impasse de la Fidélité, 4)

This is Brussels’ beer cellar par excellence, a must-visit place of pilgrimage for any beer toper worth his or her salt. It started off as a tiny cellar on the Impasse de la Fidélité, but today it has taken over most of the street. Here you will find the whole range, from typical Belgium abbey beers to exotic beverages from the outer reaches of the planet. They need loads of storage space to house the more than five thousand types of beer on offer.

Le Cirio
(Rue de la Bourse, 18-20)

In the very heart of the Belgian capital, Le Cirio is located in the side street of the Bourse. Although not on account of its siting, the café is packed with guided tour parties. Le Cirio is a veritable institution in Brussels’ tavern guild. Rather than a venue for downing a pint, this spot, which still has its original centenary decor intact, is the ideal place for trying local cuisine, washed down – naturally – with a good indigenous beer.

Le Poechenellekelder
(Rue du Chêne, 5)

Hanging from its flea-market-like ceiling you will find anything from puppets to lavatory seats. Le Poechenellekelder is undoubtedly one of the bars with the most character in Brussels. This small venue, ideally located next door to the famous Manneken Pis, has a sizeable variety of mainly Trappist beers, crafted for the most part by monks.

Le Roy d’Espagne
(Grand Place, 1)

A seat on the terrace in the Grand Place is a privileged vantage point for viewing the bustle of the city. If, in addition, you are savouring steamed mussels, a helping of chips and, for instance, a 9° proof Chimay Bleue grand reserve, the experience is complete. The proposal might conjure up images of a rubberneck in flip-flops and socks, but there are certain pleasures one cannot – or should not – pass up, as clichéd or hackneyed as they may be.

Moeder Lambic
(Place Fontainas, 8)

Pils, Trappists, triples, doubles, wittes, IPAs, pale ales, stouts… you will find them all in the Moeder Lambic, a stunning place with its 40 taps arrayed behind an endless bar counter. While you’re there, make sure to try the beer they make themselves in a brewery just two blocks away. Fermented in the open air, the fruity taste of their Moeder Lambic Original is highly seductive.

Nuëtnigenough
(Rue du Lombard, 25)

A small brasserie always packed with locals, an unmistakeable sign of success. They offer excellent cuisine at more than reasonable prices and an array of beers that will meet the expectations of even the most seasoned beer connoisseurs. This is one of the hidden gems all cities seem to have, but guard the secret jealously!

Toone
(Rue du Marché aux Herbes, 66)

Our route ends with what is likely the quaintest bar in Brussels. The Toone, concealed between the buildings separating the Impasse de Sainte Pétronille from the Marché aux Herbes, is a brasserie which doubles as a puppet theatre. Between performances, customers drink amid puppets and a number of other fabled creatures.

Beer Weekend

The Belgian Beer Weekend is held the first weekend in September each year in Brussels’ Grand Place, where a host of brasseries sell their wares and regale visitors with activities relating to countless methods of brewing and different beer flavours.

Belgian Brewers Museum

The Maison des Brasseurs, a majestic stone building located in the Grand Place, is home to the Belgian Brewers Museum. It opens every day from 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. and admission costs 5 euros.

Brussels Beer Tours

Being highly specialised in beer, Brussels is understandably criss-crossed by an endless list of thematic tours of the city, notably Beertrips, Belgian Beer Me, Global Beer, Podge Beer and Bier Mania.

Text by Oriol Rodríguez for ISABELYLUIS Comunicación

images by Bill Smith, ^CiViLoN^,Daniel Lobo, GD Preston, lhongchou's photography, Kmeron, Bernt Rostad, Foam, Ana Gasston

The first thing that struck us at the Port of Hamburg and, apparently it’s really trendy at the moment, are the so-called beach parties. On the terraces and in the bars close to the port they have set up hammocks, palm trees and spread the floors with sand. All of thiswith a view to replicating, as far as the cold climate of this city will permit, the cafés of Ibiza and their sunsets. Chill-out lounges, mojitos and caipiriñas in bars such asHamburg del Mar (in St.-Pauli-Landungsbrücken/Parkdeck) or the HCBC.

One of Hamburg’s best attractions is its Fischmarkt, or the Hamburg Fish Market (at Große Elbstraße 137). This is a huge, bustling open-air market that is set up beside the historic covered fish market where they also hold concerts you can go to with the whole family. It will call for an early rise if you want to pick up the best produce, as it only opens on Sunday mornings between 0500 and 0900.

Wandering through the port you will come across the huge ‘City of Warehouses’ or Warehouse District of Hamburg, the Speicherstadt, with its cobbled streets, criss-crossed by canals and red brick buildings. It was built between 1883 and 1927 and in its early days it had one of the biggest warehouses in the world, where merchandise arriving from at the port was dealt with. Now you will find it home to restaurants and museums.

The Port of Hamburg is undergoing big changes. In one huge area still under development, a key urban planning programme has been designed to rebuild the zone, called HafenCity and where they are building homes and offices. Rising above all these buildings will be the Elbphilharmonie, the impressiveElba Philharmonic that is expected to be inaugurated in 2014. On top of one of the old port warehouses they are building what looks like a glass crown that will be home to a concert hall with room for more than 2,000 spectators.

We were told that Hamburg has two brands of beer made in the city. One of these is the Astra beer which is made in St Pauli and which is easily recognisable thanks to its logo of a red heart which is also a port symbol. The other beer made in the city is Holsten which is produced in the district of Altona-Nord.

We really liked these 3 places for eating out:

1. Bullerei with its pleasant terrace and a healthy mid-week menu.

2. Fischhandel with its high, shared tables in Colonnaden street offers one cheap, balanced plate of food which is what everyone asks for and only costs 6.50 €. You place your order inside and they let you know when it’s ready by ringing a bell. We had a huge bowl of fussini with vegetables, wild mushrooms and a good portion of fish that tasted heavenly. When you finish eating, everyone takes their plates back inside which means they save waiting at tables in order for them to keep the prices down.

3. Gröninger Privatbrauerei serves typical Bavarian dishes: huge ham knuckles, cold cuts such as leberkäse, the traditional sauerkraut (pickled cabbage salad) or bratkartoffeln (sautéed potatoes). Prepare to loosen your belt as their portions are enormous. And the place is very warm and picturesque with enormous wooden tables to rub shoulders with other diners.

Without a doubt, the most famous street in Hamburg is the Reeperbahn in Sankt Pauli with its sex shops, strip clubs and all sorts of bars. It was here that the Beatles launched their career in 1960. They played their first concert at the Indra Club but the place where they really started to make a name for themselves was at the Star Club. The place no longer exists but there is a plaque that commemorates their presence in the city. Here’s a link to the whole route that remembers the period the Liverpool boys spent in Hamburg.

Also very well-known for its football team, the FC St Pauli is much loved by all Hamburgers and has a pirate skull for its logo. You can buy t-shirts and all sorts of gadgets at the FC St Pauli shop beside the football stadium or at another, more central shop on the Reeperbahn itself at No. 63-65.

Außenalster is one of the man-made lakes that forms the River Alster in the heart of the city. It is one of the favourite places to enjoy a sunny day and the meeting place for residents of Hamburg where they go to do different sports and activities.

Why not take a trip to Hamburg? Have a look at our flights here!