Langstrasse, Im Viadukt and other delights in Zurich
At first glance, Zurich would seem to be the city of money and private banking, nice shoes and the ultimate in education, the city of luxury and shopping, of lakes and parks. But Zurich is also a city with a very interesting cultural side to it and some daring designers.
A good reference point for finding your way around Zurich is the Hauptbahnhof or, in other words, the central railway station. This enormous station will be your starting point or destination on any trip to or from the airport and from where you can catch the urban trams and buses that travel around the city. In the Swiss capital, public transport is the best option. Forget the taxis unless you want to pay about 30 euros per trip. Speaking of money, the Switzerland still uses the Swiss Franc and paying for things in euros is expensive. We recommend you use a card whenever you can. The cost of living in Switzerland is approximately two and a half times that of Spain. For example, a breakfast of white coffee and a croissant will cost you about eight euros.
Old Zurich is close to the central station, just across the River Limmat. Pedestrian cobbled streets, many bookshops and perfect for a stroll around here.
After, I head over to Langstrasse between districts 4 and 5. A Swiss friend highly recommended it to me because it is the best place to find the most modern and exciting part of the city.
Langstrasse was once a rather vulgar street – if that word can be used to describe the this luxurious city– where you can still find the odd erotic cinema and presumably a few places devoted to decadence. However, the modern reality is completely different. Langstrasse is where we can find such original cultural offerings as Perla-Mode. I walk inside and allow myself to be seduced by the words of Stefan. Perla-Mode is, according to Stefan, a group of artists who have taken over number 84 Langstrasse to develop contemporary art, thought and culture. A series of different rooms enable artists to exhibit their works, people to attend informal talks and chats on culture, art and anthropology and also house an improvised cinema built using old seats from the football stadium and wooden palets to show films that are later discussed in a small room. Wonderful. Perla-Mode consists of the Corner College and Motto Books, where you can find numerous books and magazines on architecture, photography and design from all over the world. Stefan tells me that there are plans to demolish the building to build housing blocks and that Perla-Mode will most probably no longer exist in February 2012. If you are in the Swiss capital before then, it is worth calling by to meet this group of artists to see what they have done to the place.
Just opposite Perla-Mode, I find Soho – an enormous erotic clothing store with various fetish items, leather boots and, as Sonja explains (the girl who approaches me as I enter the shop), things to help make life a little less boring.
I make my way along Langstrasse and find many more shops, some more interesting than others. I’m heading towards Joseffstrasse, following the directions given to me by the people of Zurich. Langstrasse itself is home to all kinds of shops: shoe shops, food outlets, kiosks, fashion shops, etc.
Before stopping to eat somewhere that was recommended to me, the Bistro Föifi 30 at 48 Josefstrasse, I venture over to explore a curious-looking shop, Senior Design Factory. Seduced by the window display, I walk inside and speak to one of its creators, Deborah Biffi, who tells me the story of this social design project that she began in 2008 with her partner Benjamin Moser. The history of Senior Design Factory began with a university degree project they decided to move from paper to reality and which materialised in the space where I’m standing. The project seeks to work with older people no younger than 75. They work with them on the creation of hand-made craftwork designed by them. All the wisdom and experience of many years manifested in wonderful decoration items. Some of them are rather surprising: from kitchen items to lamps or household decorations. Wool is a main feature of the items on sale in this shop. On Saturdays, workshops are held in which the older people teach youngsters the secrets behind their creativity.
The shop itself and its social purpose fascinated me and I was chatting for a long time with Deborah. As I leave, I see that the Bistro Föifi 30 is full to bursting and I am recommended a Turkish restaurant on Gasometerstrasse, Bar Valentins. After a bite to eat, I head down Josefstrasse towards the viaduct. I am told there are some very interesting things to see over there, and they were certainly right.
Before reaching the viaduct, I find Josefwiesse – a lovely park where parents are playing with their children and where others can have a drink while the kids run around in the park. A touch of the mountain countryside in the heart of the city.
As I leave Josefwiesse, I come across the famous viaduct. It is right next to the park and called Im Viadukt on Viaduktstrasse. Each archway of the viaduct is home to a fashion shop, a bar or another of many varied businesses. I take a look around and decide to enter Famous Ape. An original Swiss shop with two establishments: this one in Zurich and another in Geneva. Anina tells me a little about the shop and lets me look around. Goyagoya is another of the shops I decide to take a closer look at. Women’s clothing from German designers and some hard-to-find brands because they produce their work using traditional methods. 52 different shops and a market, the MarktHalle. Accessories and bicycles in Velos, workshops like Daniel Blunschi, flowers in Marsano, hairdressing and clothing in Fashionslave or fashionable bars like Ambrossi Coffee Bar.
I leave the area to head over to the Cabaret Voltaire, temple to Dadaism and a must-see in Zurich. Before I get there, I stop off to visit the city’s great lake. I sit on a bench, like many other locals, and stare at the ducks, the Alps in the background and the edge of Zurich as it surrounds the lake.
The Cabaret Voltaire smells of history. In fact, it has a room containing exhibitions and where they offer performances that maintain the spirit that gave rise to the Dada movement. I like what I see and have a beer in the bar at the Cabaret Voltaire. Before leaving the culture centre, I visit the shop to buy a piece of history in the form of a souvenir.
In the evening, I go for a few beers at Sihlcity – a leisure centre that has risen out of the ruins of an old factory. In the middle of the square, they have kept the characteristic chimney that provides the industrial feel that the surroundings cry out for. There are hotels, shops, restaurants and a disco and concert hall, the Papiersaal, where you can have a few drinks of an evening.
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London at your Feet
Por Tensi Sánchez de actitudesmgz.com
When you feel trapped by routine and you fancy something different, London is the perfect city for you. London is the ideal place for a weekend change of scenery where you can fully recharge your batteries for a return to the office on Monday morning.
One good idea is to grab a flight there on a Friday morning with a return on the Sunday afternoon. This will give you plenty of time to explore the city and have some fun. Here is one possible plan to cover a Friday and Saturday that avoids public transport and gets you everywhere on foot.
FRIDAY
We land at about ten thirty and arrive at our hotel in less than forty-five minutes. The Doubletree Courthouse Hilton Hotel is a good choice because its location is excellent, in fact just a stone’s throw from Carnaby Street. In summer, you can also use the hotel terrace to enjoy a few drinks. Meanwhile, the indoor swimming pool with massage centre is available all year round. The hotel has a great deal of history as it used to be a magistrate’s court and some of the cells, the judge’s bench and witness stand can still be seen today.
Lunchtime approaches and we head off to our next destination. A ten minute walk from the hotel along the legendary Carnaby Street and Regent Street takes us to Piccadilly Circus, where San Carlo Cicchettiopened recently. This new concept in tapas combines quality traditional Italian food with good prices complemented by the very latest décor.
Not far from here is the Seven Dials area. The name comes from a monument with sundials to be found at the convergence of its seven streets. The seven streets are home to a multitude of shops, galleries and bars in which to lose yourself for a few hours. Here are our favourites:
Magma Books – you will find this bookshop to be a real treasure trove if the world of designer magazines and books excites you. Further down the same street is its partner establishment, Magma Design – here you can buy all sorts of objects and other curios related to design. Also on the same street is The Vintage Showroom – an unusual shop with a very English flavour that sells second-hand clothes for men.
If you like cheese, you simply must pay a visit to Neal’s Yard Dairy – you’ll be amazed by the varieties on display.
Hidden away in Seven Dials is a small square called Neal’s Yard – a magical place for enjoying a drink or snack on any of the terraces to be found there. The colourful building facades and flowers hanging in the windows are a source of inspiration for many fashion writers. You’ll love it.
We cross Neal’s Yard and on the other side of the street is the Miller Harris perfumerie. This brand was established in 2000 by perfumer Lyn Harrisen. A world of sensory excitement awaits behind its doors. Here you can buy fragrances, candles, soaps, creams, etc. Also worth noting is the wallpaper bearing the exclusive designs from the packaging used for the fragrances themselves.
The same street is also home to Coco de Mer, one of the most famous and unusual erotic shops in London. Succumb to the fetishes of your inner soul and buy yourself a little pleasure.
To end the afternoon, there’s nothing like dinner at Bill’s Restaurant in St Martin’s Courtyard – the perfect place to try the famous Bill’s Burger or the delightful Fish Pie, as well as some of their own brand products, such as Bill’s Beer.
SATURDAY
Carnaby Street is opposite the hotel and is one of the most charismatic streets in London where you can always find a wide range of different shops. Take note of these: Cowshed – with its exquisite décor, they offer beauty and café services combined. This is the perfect place to meet for a chat and treat yourself.
For the lovers of British Style, Peckman Rye is a small family shop that has been selling silk ties, handkerchiefs and bow ties for more than two centuries.
Bottletop is an unusual shop that sells handbags and accessories made from bottletops. Some of the designs are amazing and, most importantly, the brand supports a foundation that provides work to young people in dire straits. Lamuète Boutique sells French and Italian designs for women with urban-chic style. Finally, on the corner with Newburgh Street you will find Fourth & Main for functional yet elegant men’s fashion.
A different and entertaining way to have lunch in London might be to sign up for Sutra classes with chefJay Morjaria. For less than €15 and for one hour, you will learn how to make succulent vegetarian dishes and then enjoy eating them
The perfect place for any man can be found on Brewer Street, where various new shops have all opened recently: Wolsey, Jack Spade, Woolrich, Stone Island and our favourite, Rapha – an ode to the world of cycling with a very well decorated café-bar inside. If you like hats, then Laird London on Sherwood Streetis the place for you. They have an impressive collection of borsalino and panama hats.
The website for Regent Street has all the information you need, is well organised for shoppers and has recently added a range of new services, such as Gift Cards and the delivery of your purchases to your home or hotel without charge.
To end your Saturday evening, you simply must visit Sketch. This is the most fashionable place in the city and where you can choose from a wide range of exclusive cocktails; we went for their classic Old Fashion. This place really gives you an incredible visual and sensory experience that is hard to put down in words.
SUNDAY
A day dedicated to the markets of London. We will highlight two of the lesser known places to go:Spitalfields and Brick Lane. The latter of the two has become a symbol of multiculturalism that is constantly evolving.
Hundreds of stalls selling new and second-hand clothes, works of art by emerging artists and designer objects at good prices. We also recommend visiting the shops on the nearby streets and do not ignore thegraffiti you will see everywhere. If you like urban art, you can even sign up for a special tour. Finally, there’s nothing like taking a break at any of the international food stalls for a quick bite.
We return home after having had London at our feet for three days and, most importantly, with our batteries fully recharged.
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By Tensi Sánchez from actitudesmgz.com
Pictures By Rubén Seco
Bologna Eating in the Cradle of Italian Cuisine
Tucked away between Venice and Florence, while not Italy’s most popular destination, it is certainly one of the cities that best distil the essence of the country. Bologna is nicknamed “the Learned One”, as its university is one of the oldest in Italy. It is also known as “the Red One” on account of the reddish hue of the city’s rooftops. But the most endearing epithet of the capital of Emilia-Romagna is “the Fat One”. In Bologna, gastronomy is a religion and it would be a sacrilege not to observe the ceremony involved in sitting down to table, while the traditional recipe for tortellini is jealously guarded in the city’s Chamber of Commerce vault. We ventured into the cradle of Italian cuisine and wandered through the streets of Il Quadrilatero, its historic centre (the second largest and best preserved in Italy), in search of the best restaurants, trattorie and osterie.
Mercato di Mezzo
In the heart of Il Quadrilatero, Bologna’s historic centre, stands the Mercato di Mezzo, one of the hotspots of any gastro route through the city. Its history goes back to the Middle Ages, a period when the shops and street stalls were divided up according to guilds. This state of affairs endured until the early 20th century, when the system was gradually disbanded. After being restored over the last few years, the Mercato di Mezzo, with its stalls selling fresh pasta, local wines, meats, fish, vegetables and cheeses has become the must-visit spot for all demanding foodies who happen to be in Bologna.
Osteria del Sole
You won’t see any sign or poster pointing you to what is one of the most emblematic establishments in town, so it is not easy to find. Located at Vicolo Ranocchi 1/d, between the Via degli Orefici and Via Pescherie Vecchie, you will come across something resembling a small rectangular opening in the wall. Don’t hesitate to go in, as this is the Osteria del Sole. It opened in 1465 and is Bologna’s oldest canteen. According to many in the know, in the whole of Italy as well. It breathes authenticity throughout. However, if you’re feeling peckish, this is not the place to still your hunger, as they only serve wine – and what wines, too! – beer and aperitifs like grappa or the local liqueur par excellence, Amaro Montenegro. They do let you take your own food, though, whether in a lunch box or from some nearby trattoria. Quite an experience!
Trattoria Tamburini
Trattoria Tamburini is one of those places where you would eat everything, including the tablecloth. Opened in 1932 on the premises of what was once one of the most popular butcheries in the city, Tamburini is the ideal choice for an aperitif. If your taste buds are up to having an orgasm, take up a seat on the terrace and taste their exquisite cheese and sausage boards, washed down with a fine lambrusco. They serve what are unquestionably the best mortadella and parmesan cheese in Bologna. If you feel like something heartier and more consistent, you can always go inside and wolf down some tortellini. You can’t go wrong with the ones they serve up at Tamburini.
Paolo Atti & Figli
Tortellini, zuppas, torta di riso, pane bolognese... the folks at Paolo Atti & Figli have been pasta artists since 1880. Their centuries-old workshop is located at Via Caprarie 7, while their other shop is at Via Drapperie 6. Go up close and watch how Elda, one of the most respected sfoglina (pasta makers) in Bologna, delicately and purposefully kneads the pasta based on eggs from hens who feed solely on corn and semolina brought especially from Altamura, in Puglia. They do not add any salt at Paolo Atti & Figli as they claim it kills the flavour.
Trattoria Gianni
Here is one of those secrets you’re reluctant to share with anyone, so that the next time you visit the city the restaurant is still frequented by mainly locals, with just a few stray tourists. Modest and inviting (these are definitely the ones to go for) and just a few steps away from the central Piazza Maggiore, Trattoria Gianni is the place to go all out on tagliatelle al ragú alla bolognese, tortellini in brodo (very similar to the Catalan “sopa de galets”), cotoletta (breaded veal cutlets) with baked potatoes… The premises are small, so you are advised to book in advance. Otherwise, you will have to wait a while, although the waiters will help you kill time by plying you with glasses of prosecco on the house.
Al Voltone
Their claim to fame is having been the first restaurant in Bologna to make their culinary creations using products sourced exclusively from the province of Emilia-Romagna. Popularly known as La Torinese 1988, Al Voltone focuses on simple cuisine with a steadfastly traditional essence. Or, twice good, to put it another way. Apart from the omnipresent, irresistible tagliatelle and tortellini, the menu at Al Voltone also features such culinary temptations as green lasagna a la bolognese. And, for dessert, you can’t possibly refuse to sink your spoon into their piccolo pecato with custard and chocolate.
The Grand Ambassador of Bologna
It is regarded as a lesser pleasure, but the genuine variety is exquisite and sublime. Mortadella – there are various theories about the origin of its name – is the grand ambassador of traditional Bolognese cuisine around the world. The story goes back to the Renaissance, when it is believed that Cristoforo da Messisbugo, carver to Cardinal Ippolito d’Este, devised the original recipe. Bologna mortadella is made exclusively of meticulously selected pork which is ground into a fine paste, to which are added nuggets of fat (never less than 15% or more than 28% of the total meat surface), endowing it with a characteristic flavour. It is then stuffed into a casing of natural or artificial gut. Eaten with a few slices of freshly baked bread and a piece of cheese is bliss on the palate.
Book your Vueling to Bologna and get ready to savour their excellent cuisine.
Text by Oriol Rodríguez
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The beauty and Magic of Lisbon
Por Tensi Sánchez de Actitudes Magazine
Lisbon is without doubt one of the most beautiful and magical cities in Europe. As soon as you arrive, you feel immersed in a world of new sensations that only Lisbon can offer. Historic Lisbon stands in perfect harmony alongside the more modern features of this vanguard city, where its wide range of leisure activities and cultural options have made it a highly fashionable destination. Each area of the city offers a vast array of attractions to make sure you’ll always have plenty to do and the streets are teeming with ambience both day and night.
Lisbon’s winding and sometimes steep streets can make it difficult to get around the city, but the public transport services and even taxis are not expensive.
Here are some useful travel tips that don’t appear in many guidebooks.
Port – Santa Apolonia area
This is a fairly new part of the city that has attracted many new restaurants and shops to set up in old port warehouses, creating some unique and spectacular spaces. Be sure to visit the excellent delicatessens or have breakfast at Gourmet Deli Deluxe, try the international dishes at Bica do Sapato restaurant and the vintage furniture shop known as Loja da Talaia.
This area also boasts some fabulous nightspots, including the famous LUX discotheque, but if you’re not on the “guest list” or you know someone who can get you in, the queues outside are horrendous, though it’s well worth the hassle.
Bairro Alto – Principe Real area
Barrio Alto is home to the Principe Real area, an old residential district next to the Botanical Gardens and where you’ll find many of the city’s most modern shops and restaurants, including trend-setting concept stores Espacio B, 21 pr Concept Store, Real and Fabrico Infinito.
If you love fashion, be sure to visit such shops as Nuno Gama, Alexandra Moura, Kolovrat, Ricardo Preto and Nuno Baltazar. These top designers all attend Moda Lisboa, Portugal’s most important biannual fashion show that is becoming increasingly famous the world over.
Next on our route is Poison d’amour, a cake shop that is sure to make your mouth water, boasting a wonderful terrace where you can enjoy a moment of pure magic. The terrace of the Lost In café-bar, which has an Indian-style decor, offers breathtaking views over the city. For some authentic Portuguese home-cooking, we highly recommend Tasca Do Urso at 32 Rua Do Monte Olivete. And last but not least, theFacto Royale hair salon with its exquisite decor and reputation as one of the finest in the city.
Baixa and Chiado area.
A great way to spend the afternoon is to stroll through the streets of Baixa and Chiado, taking in the most authentic side of Lisbon, its houses, cafés, streets… this is home to a shop called Pelcor, famous throughout Portugal for its cork fashion accessories and incredible handbags. Along Rua Nova do Carvalho you’ll find a bar called Sol y Pesca where you can enjoy a glass of fine wine, then go for a cocktail in the pub known as Pensao Amor, a former brothel that has managed to preserve much of its original decor and boasting a replica of the Sistine Chapel ceiling. Don’t miss even the smallest detail!
Close by is the restaurant La Velha Senhora offering superb local cuisine at affordable prices.
Alcántara area
Another of Lisbon’s lesser known gems, this area is home to some of the city’s coolest shops, cafés and restaurants, alongside the trendiest advertising agencies and photographic studios.
It’s like a small city in itself, a dream factory where everything is ad hoc and created for LX Factory.
Sunday is the perfect time to visit this area and check out the LX Market where you can find fabulous porcelain, books, clothes, live music, etc.…All the shops and businesses have managed to preserve the essence and decor of the industrial spaces they once were. There are over one hundred unique premises, such as the stunning Achimpa bookshop, La Cantina restaurant and even a press kiosk inside a container called Mag. All this and so much more is available in LX Factory.
Olivais area
Another fascinating area to see is the so-called new Lisbon which arose from the EXPO 1998 World Exhibition. If you like architecture, you’ll love the Portuguese Pavilion by Álvaro Siza, winner of the Pritzker prize, along with many others. The area is fully inhabited and all the pavilions have been reused. A fine example of urban renewal that other European cities would do well to copy.
The Expo area gives shape to the Olivais district, which is linked to the city via underground, Vasco da Gama Bridge (the longest in Europe), and the intermodal station designed by Santiago Calatrava.
Must-do
*Try the best sweet in the city (and it’s not the famous Bethlehem Cake) at the cake shop called Pastelería do restelo “Careca” on Rua Duarte Pacheco Pereira. The delicious Palmees do Careca!
*Admire the work of a possible future Pritzer prize winner, Charles Correa, the Champalimaud Foundation building and have lunch in the incredible Darwin restaurant on Avenida de Brasilia.
*Choose a good hotel such as Eurostars Das Letras offering first-class service to make your stay even more enjoyable.
*Visit the MUDE museum of fashion and design, a building dating to the 1950s and former headquarters of Banco Nacional Ultramarino. Its original use can still be appreciated thanks to the decadent industrial ambience that makes it all the more fascinating.
By Tensi Sánchez from Actitudes Magazine
Photos by Rubén Seco
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