Revelling in the Carnival of Milan
Milan is celebrated as having one of the highest economic development rates among Italy’s cities. It is also famed for being one of the international hubs of fashion and design. When considering a trip to this incredible city, we inevitably think of attending one of its great fashion shows, roaming through its boundless Furniture Fair or delighting in window shopping its fabulous stores and splashing out on the amazing apparel, if we can afford it.
Some head for Milan to soak up its cultural assets by visiting its most emblematic monuments, notably the Duomo or the Castello Sforzesco, relishing the artworks housed in the Pinacoteca di Brera, the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana and the Museo del Novecento, or venturing into the Church of Santa Maria delle Grazie. There, the art lover is greeted by one of the icons of art history, Leonardo da Vinci’s The Last Supper. Then again, others prefer to don their finery to attend an opera performance in the iconic Teatro alla Scala.
The Carnevale Ambrosiano
No less celebrated is one of Milan’s more spirited, entertaining facets – its Carnival. When the subject of Italy’s carnivals comes up, it is common to talk about the two most popular instances in the land. First, the Venice Carnival, with its magnificent face masks and spectacular period costumes, which unfolds against the magical backdrop of that unique city. The other is the Viareggio Carnival, where festival-goers never fail to be amazed by the mechanical ingenuity of the floats that file past during the parade.
The Carnevale Ambrosiano, as Milan’s carnival is known, offers a peculiarity which makes it stand out from the rest – its duration. Carnival usually ends on Carnival Tuesday, also known as Mardi Gras, which then gives way to Ash Wednesday, marking the start of Lent. In the case of Milan, it extends four more days, lasting until the Saturday, known locally as Sabato Grasso. And, it’s not merely because of some whim, as the reason for its duration is related to a long-standing legend. It is said that the bishop, St Ambrose, the patron saint of Milan, who happened to be on a long pilgrimage in foreign lands, requested an extension of Carnival until his return to the city, as he wished to celebrate the start of Lent with all his people.
Like any noteworthy carnival, the Milan Carnival prizes itself on its parades and street festivities, characterised by a fanfare of colour, music and festive atmosphere. On the Saturday, the crowning event is a grand parade which ends in one of the city’s most emblematic spots, the Piazza del Duomo.
One of the standout aspects of this Carnival is the traditional costume known as the Meneghino. Just as the figure of the harlequin is traditional in Bergamo, or Pantaleon in Venice, the Milan Carnival has its own popular figure, drawn from the Italian Commedia dell'arte. TheMeneghinocan be spotted by his three-cornered hat.
Among the traditional confectionery loved by the Milanese are the chiacchiere and bugie, simple fried pastries made of flour and coated in castor sugar which are ideal for topping up your strength between one street party and the next.
Don your mask and come to Milan to delight in its Carnival!
Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
Images by gnuckx
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Winter Holiday at the Foot of Mont Blanc
Chamonix, the rakish star of the French Alps, is the perfect spot for a winter getaway where you can get the most out of the snow in every possible way and with splendid views of the highest mountain in Europe, Mont Blanc. Situated just 16 kilometres from Switzerland and 11 kilometres from Italy, this destination draws snow sport devotees from everywhere, as well as those eager to go on outings in the superb natural surroundings, relax in a spa and even do a spot of shopping in the town of Chamonix.
The Best Black Pistes in France
Snow sport enthusiasts will find a veritable paradise in Chamonix as they ski against the spectacular backdrops, either of Mont Blanc or the valley where Chamonix is located. The 115 kilometres of ski runs – 12 for beginners, 26 blue, 20 red and 12 black – are a delight for any skiing or snowboarding devotee. While it is acclaimed for its large number of pistes with a high difficulty rating, suitable only for the most intrepid skiers, it also has areas where young children or learners can enjoy snow sports.
The Aiguille du Midi, at an altitude of 3,842 metres, is the objective of choice for those less fearful of heights, as well as others seeking out the most precipitous down slopes which only specialists can handle safely. It is well worth going up in the cable car and overcoming one’s fear of heights, if only for the superb panoramic views of the French, Italian and Swiss Alps to be had from here. The Brévent-Flégère pistes are more accessible and also afford magnificent views of Mont Blanc.
Heady Scenery
Those less inclined to do sport can rest assured that you don’t need to ski in order to enjoy the views, which can be reached by going up the comfortable cable cars. Mont Blanc, at a stunning altitude of 4,810 metres and famed for being the cradle of mountaineering, is the main focus of attention for visitors to the area. As mentioned earlier, both Aiguille du Midi and the peak of Le Brévent are perfect vantage points for viewing the scenery. Other panoramas worth considering here are provided by the glaciers. A standout example is Mer de Glace, located on the north face of Mont Blanc, which is 7 kilometres long by 200 metres deep, making it the longest glacier in France.
De Luxe Après Ski
Unlike other Alpine ski resorts, which feature only a few villages with limited aprés ski facilities, after a long, hard day of skiing or scoping the area in search of sensations, Chamonix boasts a whole town full of amenities for rounding off your day. You can go shopping, have a drink while listening to live music, or replenish your strength by trying some culinary classics of the region of Savoy, like raclette or fondue. What more could you want?
Book your Vueling to Geneva, which lies just 88 kilometres from Chamonix, and indulge in a surfeit of snow at the foot of the highest peak in Europe.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by Christian Bertram
more infoTabancos: back to their origins
In these premises they sell by the litter the well-known vinos de Jerez ( wines from Xeres) that can be also tasted in the same place along with some snack in this kind of winery or social tavern. The name of Tabancos comes from the union of estancos and estacos de Tabacos, two different places in their origin, back end XVII century. At the estancos it was common to sell products controlled by the Spanish government and at the estancos de tobacco the products that come all the way from America and they have begun to be commercialized.
In the beginning these venues were only for men. Women could only get in to buy some wine but never to taste it in the place. In some of them, they even sell their products through a little window. Fortunately, things have changed and everybody is now welcomed to the romantic Tabancos. Actually, they are now as famous as the old bodegas (wineries), Tabancos are again a meeting place, even for the younger people, who has fallen in love with them again and go there often.
Eating tapas like chacinas, chicharrones cheeses, conserves and mojama is a normal thing to do while drinking this wine of high graduation such as finos, manzanillas, amontillados, palos cortados, olorosos, moscatel or amontillados. Every tabanco has its own speciality and the best thing to do there is asking about their speciality.
Nowadays there is a route for visiting these historic premises that you'd better not miss when visiting the city. You may find all the info regarding this route at the site of Sacristia Del Caminante where is explained everything about the wines from Jerez and the route of Tabancora.
The oldest. Tabanco el Pasaje
Calle Santa María número 8
tabancoelpasaje.com
Founded in 1925, tabanco el pasaje is the eldest that still exist in Jerez. Here the land's traditions and flamenco are still alive. It was closed long ago but the lawryer Antonio Ramirez reopened it with all its personality. Its name is due to the two entrances to the place, the main one at Calle de santa Maria and the back entrance at calle Mesones.
Tabanco de La Pandilla
Calle de los Valientes 14
www.facebook.com/La-Pandilla-Tabanco/
Opened in 1936. As tabanco el pasaje it was closed for some years but it is now open again because of two businessmen who used to be there when they were young and wanted the venue to have the original atmosphere back again. For the purpose they have recouped the old paintings and have refurbished the arks and columns very typical of the wineries in Jerez.
Tabanco Escuela
Calle Porvera 40
www.facebook.com/TabancoEscuela
This tabanco is where it used to be the caballerias of an old bourgeois house from the 19th century. The name is because this was the only school in Jerez back in the end of the 16th century.
Tabanco Plateros
Calle Francos 1
www.tabancoplateros.com
Located in one of the most beautiful squares of the old distict of jerez. At Plateros they want to reestablished the old traditions but in a modern style inthe vinoteca-style. They offer wine tastings along with regional cheeses, chacinas, morcillas, chorizos or butifarras.
Tabanco Las Banderillas
Located at the neighbourhood of San Miguel, it was directed byPedro Flores, father of Lola Flores, the most important artist in Jerez.
Tabanco El Guitarrón de San Pedro
Calle Bizcocheros 16
www.facebook.com/guitarrondesanpedro/
Flamenco, wines, tapas and a good atmosphere just in the heart of Albarizuela, opposite the church of San Pedro. They offer live music, flamenco and poetry. The name comes from a guitar that the workers of theatre Villamaria gave as a gift when the works were finished.
Tabanco San Pablo de Jerez
Calle San Pablo 12
www.tabancosanpablo.es
It opens at 12:00 and soo. It is full of people eager to eat their tapas such as chicharrones, spanish omelette, montaditos or snails with a glass of wine.
Makes you want to go, right? Do it! Check out our prices here!
The trendiest restaurants in the city I
By Ferran Imedio from Gastronomistas
Nancy Albrecht, who was born and bred in Berlin and, as the marketing manager at a luxury hotel, knows everything that’s going on in the German capital, tells us that what is happening here in gastronomy is “crazy”. With a new places opening every weekend, she does’nt know where to start, because what is on offer is ever more overwhelming, as vast as the city itself.
“What has happened here food-wise over the last three or four years is incredible. Incredible“, confirms Matthias Diether, one of the city’s most renowned and youngest chefs.
We had heard that in these parts that something was going on in the German capital. We wanted to see for ourselves, so a few days ago we travelled to Berlin to get to know a city that is ‘on fire’ gastronomically. We went in search of places that were trendy, good and nice to look at (and several of them cheap), like the Bread & Butter trade show to be held from 14 to 16 January. Our base of operations was the Wyndham Grand Berlin Hotel, a modern establishment, well located (about 500 metres from Postdamer Platz), clean and with impeccable service.
TIM RAUE
One restaurant definitely not to be missed is the Tim Raue. A worthy example of a Michelin two star restaurant in one of the most centrall districts (in the Kreuzberg neighbourhood, a few metres from the historic Checkpoint Charlie). The suggestion may surprise you because you’ll think that an establishment so recommended by the bible of gastronomy will be very expensive and luxurious, but when I tell you there’s a three course set lunch for €38, things change, right? And with no etiquette or ceremony. The winelist offers 500 wines, many of them quite affordable, with prices starting from €28.
Tim Raue is a modern, pleasant place frequented by famous Berliners. So many come here that taking photos has been banned to protect the intimacy of celebrities.
And why do they go there? For its fusion Asian cuisine, always light, a marvel playing with aromas, hot spices, sweet flavours… Exoticism passed through the filter of a German who knows to how connect with the Western palate. Squaring the circle. Its cuisine is well rounded, always with some hot spice (not too much, just enough to be enjoyable), some sweetness (fruit) and some sharpness. And never any bread, potatoes, rice or pasta, so as not to detract from the symphony of flavours in each of its dishes. This makes it unique in Germany.
If you go there and your budget doesn’t stretch to the taster menus (from €118 to €168) but can stand the lunch menu (three dishes for €38; four for €48, five for €58 and six for €68), don’t miss the Cantonese style shrimp with mango, carrot and wasabi mayonnaise. Or duck reinterpreted on one of its variations: foie gras, broth, breast on waffle, or leek and apple. Unbeatable. Closed on Sunday and Monday. The rest of the week the kitchen is open from 12:00 noon to 2 pm and from 7 pm to 9 pm.
Rudi-Dutschke-Strasse, 26.
LA SOUPE POPULAIRE
How to convert a brewery into a restaurant. The ubiquitous Tim Raue knows how. You’ll find it done here with a radical industrial design: iron beams, cement, bare bricks in the walls…
The menu is based on softened, modernised versions of German recipes. The Königsberger Klopse is a meatball originally accompanied with mashed potato, capers and a butter and flour sauce. Here it is the same, but much lighter, not overpowering as you would expect from such ingredients. The cod with vegetables and citrus touches, and the beef and vegetable broth, are well worth the visit.
Open Thursday to Saturday, from 12 noon to 11 pm. Average price between €30 and €40.
Prenzlauer Allee, 24
KATZ ORANGE
You’ll have to look for it because it’s hard to find. It is in the inner courtyard of a block of flats. This is a charming old brewery, built in the late 19th century, that stopped producing beer and is now a most welcoming, modern restaurant.
The light, international dishes, with a touch of sophistication, are made with organic produce. We really liked the salad with goose pâté, the beetroot broth and the salmon with mashed potato and marinated quince.
The taster menu costs €50 for four dishes (€25 more with wine) and €60 for five dishes (€30 more with wine). A la carte is around €40.
Open Monday to Saturday, from 6 pm to 11 pm. It has two floors with a cocktail bar on the ground floor.
Bergstrasse, 22
SAGE
While the DJ spins tunes (club and disco – no classical music because this is a superdiscofashion venue) you go on dining. Sage is considered one of the coolest venues in Europe. When the good weather arrives, it opens a ‘beach’ by the river, with sand and sun loungers where you can enjoy views of the river to the opposite side: on the other bank you can see the East Side Gallery, a long stretch of the Wall painted by graffiti artists from all over the world.
Here, in what was an old loom, they serve uncomplicated, contemporary international cuisine: pizza, soup, meat… Average price between €35 and €40. There are special menus with three dishes (€35), four dishes (€42) and seven dishes (€69). Ah, and of you’re a smoker, there’s a space reserved for you… And it’s covered.
Köpenicker Strasse, 18-20
CAFE AM NEUEN SEE
A must for anyone who likes spots that are quiet, bucolic, romantic even (if you go at night, there are those candles, those little lights by a lake in the Tiergarten, one of Berlin’s big parks). It gets full at weekends because the setting is so nice. Open every day from 9 am (they have a huge range of breakfasts) until midnight and beyond. The menu has simple, international dishes like pasta, pizza, soups, etc. But there is also German food. All products are local. If you’d like to have a drink at night, there are no cocktails but they do serve beer, soft drinks, spirits and liquors.
Lichtensteinallee, 2
COOKIES CREAM
The city’s fashionable vegetarian restaurant. “It’s Berlin”, sums up Diether, our spontaneous guide on this getaway. “It’s in a hidden away spot, where you’d never expect to find a restaurant. And when you walk in you see all kinds, from punks to people wearing suits and ties”.
Hidden away means next to the trade door of the neighbouring five star hotel. It’s an ugly door, with just a chandelier, suggesting there’s something different here, as a clue that you’re on the right track. The premises are a building that includes a restaurant (Cookies Cream, on the first floor), a disco (Cookies, on the ground floor) and a cocktail bar (Draytone, next door). So you’ve just finished your dinner (a three course menu with a starter, main and dessert, drinks not included, costs €36) and now you can enter the disco free of charge.
Open Tuesday to Saturday, evenings only.
Behrenstrasse, 55
CURRY 36
Its name makes it quite clear what to expect here. Curry is king. But, only applied to sausages of all kinds and chicken. Nothing else. They put it on the sausages, on the chips that go with them, in the ketchup… It’s a simple take away (you can also eat at high tables in the street, sheltered by an awning) but it’s always full of Berliners hooked on its way of preparing the hot dog and its variants, and on its prices that start from €1.20. Open every day from 9 am to 5 pm. If you don’t fancy this idea, right next to it there are similar places offering pizza and Chinese food.
Mehringdamm, 36
MUSTAFA
Berliners love this little Turkish place. They travel kilometres to get to this street kiosk next to the entrance to Mehringdamm underground station and to try its shawarma. It’s famous for its queues. We went at 11:30 am an it took us 30 minutes, but friends in the city tell us that at busy times you can wait for up to two hours.
The portions are huuuuuge, tasty and spicy hot (just enough). They have golden brown chicken with vegetables, sauces and spices Prices are between €2.80 and €4.30.
Open week days from 10 am to 2 am, and weekends from 11 am to 5 pm.
Mehringdamm, 34
THE CASUAL BY PACO PÉREZ
Inside the Das Stue luxury hotel there are two restaurants by Paco Pérez,:the outstanding Cinco, with a Michelin star, and the The Casual, based on Spanish tapas. They are separated by a curtain. The famous restaurant’s taster menu is priced at €140 (€230 with drinks) and the price at The Casual is between €35 and €50.
There are unforgettable tapas like the Galician octopus on mashed potato with caramelized onions (the delicious sauce is paprika-based), the Iberian ham croquettes and spicy garlic shrimp with a perfect poached egg. There are also non-Spanish dishes, like steak tartar with truffled egg yolk and Chinese brioche (filled with Iberian rib pork).
The greatest care is taken over the quality of the ingredients to the point where the fish is brought to Berlin from Catalonia .
The Casual never closes (the kitchen is open from 12 noon to 3 pm and from 6 pm to 11 pm). On Friday and Saturday nights there is live music or a DJ.
Drakestrasse, 1
BAR RAVAL
In Kreuzberg, one of the city’s most exciting areas, it is owned by Daniel Brühl. It serves tapas, including its unbeatable chicken and ham croquettes (look out Joselito) and cod fritters. There ate hot, cold and speciality tapas, and dishes of the week. And on the first Monday of each month there is paella for 40 people. A real party.
If you stay the night you can try from their list of gin tonics (not a usual drink in Berlin), added recently with 30 types of gin and 3 types of tonic.
Daniel Brühl is not always there because of his acting commitments, but this place is not just another investment for him, he really loves it. An example: he bought the syphon bottles that decorate the room from Barcelona’s Encants market and he also bought the traditional floor tiles in Barcelona.
Open from 5 pm to 11 pm (weekends to midnight and later). Weekends in April to October from midday. Average price between €20 and €25. If you’re going for a weekend it’s better to book through their website a week in advance because it’s always full.
Ah, and if you go to the Bread & Butter trade fair, look out for them because they will have their own space. This year they will serve tapas and Spanish tortillas.
Lübbener Strasse, 1
FIRST FLOOR
If you want to give yourself an even bigger treat and you don’t mind digging deep in your pocket, check out First Floor, naturally enough on the first floor of the Palace Hotel. While the décor is elegant and classic, the kitchen is run by a chef who has fun with his staff and with his food, Matthias Diether. I’d call him Matthias Donald Duck Diether because his duck dishes are incredible. You’ll have to cough up at least €109 (a four-course menu, with six starters and two desserts included, but there are also menus at €129 and €159), but it’s worth it because eating there is great fun. Modern dishes based on French haute cuisine.
The colourful presentation plays with textures, each ingredient being served in different versions on the same plate, always with a visual artistic touch. And the taste. The dish called Duck Through and Through is a must: pâté, ham, broth, breast, chutney… Breathtaking! But the crab from Australia and the halibut are also very good
Ah, and one other thing. The wine selection is unbelievable, infinite. There are 1,500 wines. They are in a winelist that the waiters call the ‘Bible’. Some are so good you’ll feel you’ve been in the divine presence.
Budapester Strasse, 45
STREET STALL
And if your budget runs low you can always grab a hot dog for €1.50 at a street stall like the one in the photo. You can see why it’s so cheap, when to sell a sandwich all you need is an umbrella and a hotplate, some sausages, mustard and ketchup. The one you see in the photo was in front of the cathedral, but they sell them for €1.35 in Alexanderplatz. You can’t beat that!
CAFÉ GIPFELTREFFEN
A trendy, cozy spot in the heart of the Kreuzberg district. You go in and feel like you’re in your living room. Simple warm decoration, windows onto the street, quiet background music… Ideal on cold rainy/snowy days.
Here you can order light meals like sandwiches and salads, and enjoy drinks, cold (juices, beer, wine, cocktails, spirits, water) or hot (tea, coffee), while you relax listening to music, chatting quietly with friends (even better with your partner) or reading a book.
After 6 pm it changes from a modern welcoming café into a restaurant with international cuisine cooked with local ingredients. Open every day from 9 am to midnight, and weekends from 10 am to midnight and later.
Görlitzerstrasse, 68
WYNDHAM GRAND BERLIN
And why not eat at a hotel? Where I stayed, the Wyndham Grand Berlin, is a safe bet, and not just because it’s a great BBB (Bedroom with Bathroom and Breakfast) at a good price. The breakfast has a variety and quality that many top class hotels would be proud of, while the elegant restaurant, called The Post, offers really good Mediterranean cuisine (including gazpacho and Catalan-style grilled vegetable salad) at an average price of €25. Salads, pasta, pizzas, meats, fish… For lunch from 12 noon to 3 pm and in the evening from 6 pm to 10:30 pm.
Hallesche Strasse, 10
Makes you want to go, right? Do it! Check out our prices here!
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