Eight Pointers for the Engadin Ski Marathon, Sir Norman Foster’s Favourite Race
What do an architect, cross-country skiing and a search for efficiency and sustainability have in common? I told you how I discovered the Engadin Ski Marathon after seeing the documentary, “How much does your building weigh, Mr. Foster?”. This film, which premiered in 2010, describes how the designs of Britain’s renowned architect, Norman Foster, evolved into sustainable and more efficient buildings. This documentary opens with epic scenes from the Engadin Ski Marathon, then cuts to feature a surprisingly athletic Norman Foster doing cross-country skiing, after which it fades to black and shows him calm and pensive, on the balcony of one of his works, Chesa Futura, which crowns St. Moritz. In its beginnings in 1969, just over 900 people took the start in the race, while this last time, 47 years after its inception, I was one of the nearly 14,000 participants. The experience was incredible and, if you’re curious, I can give you a few tips to get a better view of the race. By the way – St. Moritz is only 203 kilometres from Zürich.
1. Distinguishing classic from skating. It is important to know that cross-country skiing comes in two varieties. In the classic style you ski along a marked trail, while the skating technique involves skiing off-trail. The equipment and technique are different, too. In the skating or freestyle technique, you glide on the whole ski using longer poles, while in the classic style traction is provided by the base of the ski (waxed or wax-less scales). In some trials you can only ski in the classic style. Engadin allows both, the skaters keeping to the left, and the classic skiers to the right.
2. Prepare your technique to adapt to the terrain. The ski run is very pleasant because much of it is along a false flat, and the rises, although tough and technical, are also short. There are only a couple of downhills in the forest which can become taxing on account of the crowding. It is an approachable course on the whole, but you need to be an intermediate to really enjoy it.
3. It is not a course but a line race, and public transport is good. You don’t need to stay over in St. Moritz; neither do you have to drive there. Public transport takes you across the whole valley and is good. You only need to secure accommodation and commute to the villages traversed by the run.
4. Use the occasion to try out all types of skiing. You are in the Alps and it is easy to try out everything here. You don’t have to limit yourself to St. Moritz either, as there are ski stations on the way to Zürich such as Lenzerheide, which we went to. These are more accessible, less crowded and ideal for skiing both on the runs and off-piste.
5. Check the weather forecast for the day of the race and allow for it. If it’s sunny, as it was this year, a single layer is enough, and on top of that a waistcoat, at the most. It is essential to keep hydrated and use sun block.
6. Head for the ski run with the minimum. On the day of the race, they will give you a bag to leave at the start, depending on your number time. Arrive with your ski boots on, your skis out of the bag, fastened with Velcro and keep your gear to a minimum.
7. Warm nourishment. There are fueling stations along the whole course, but you are advised to bring your own flask in a hip pack typically used for cross-country skiing. The race is sponsored by ISOSTAR but, beware – the drink they give you is warm, like tea.
8. The after race has been invented and it is called Après Ski. In my last post about Ironman Lanzarote you will have noticed I am a stickler for preparing ahead. But, in St. Moritz, I would say you don’t need to organise much. Either you hang around for the party they throw at Zuoz, or go straight up to St. Moritz and eat in the sun on a terrace and have a drink while listening to music afterwards. I am not talking about clubbing, but about chilling out.
After spending those days in Switzerland, I realised they love sports but, if skiing is not your thing, don’t worry, because I have these other plans which are a good excuse for coming along anyway.
- 19 April: Zürich Marathon, where you can either run the whole marathon or in a team.
- 9 May: Sola Race, where mixed teams of at least 2 women and a maximum of 8 team members run a distance of 116 km in 14 legs.
- 19 July: Ironman Zürich. Swimming in Lake Zürich. The course is beautiful, which means that entry tickets to the race run out fast.
- 19 August: Swimming Across the Lake. A 1,500 m race, from Mythenquai to Tiefenbrunnen. The date varies, depending on the weather.
- 26-27 September: Freestyle.ch. Artificial snow ramps for BMX, skiing, motor acrobatics and snowboarding freestylers.
While man does not live by sport alone, and I am not one given to visiting monuments, I would recommend you stroll around the town centre and try one of two “dinner + drink plan” options. Or else, the world’s oldest vegetarian eatery, HILTL, dating from 1898, or the Widder Bar, which doubles as a hotel. They’re open as a restaurant and club. They are good, less touristy options than visiting the train station – while it is stunning, you won’t see any Swiss people walking about there.
Looking ahead, the next Engadin Ski Marathon is on 13 March 2016. Come along to discover Swiss-style sports. Book your flight here.
Text by Raúl Casañas
Images by Pello Osoro, Andy Mettler, Nigel Young / Foster + Partners
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Electronic Music Hits Zürich’s Quiet Streets
For more than 20 years, thousands upon thousands of people have flocked to the shores of Lake Zürich to celebrate the Street Parade, one of the largest urban festivals on the planet geared to a grand display of love, peace, tolerance and freedom. For just one day, the quiet streets of this Swiss city will pulsate with electronic rhythms and be literally inundated by techno fans and DJs, making for an electrifying atmosphere.
The parade normally takes place on the second Saturday of August, but this year the date has been changed. The streets of Zürich are currently undergoing repair work and, so as not to disturb the flow of the technoparade, the date has been postponed three weeks to 29 August. The dates of the city’s other landmark summer festival, the Zürcher Theater Spektakel, have also been moved. This festival of the scenic arts has been brought forward and will be held from 6 to 23 August, to avoid it coinciding with the Street Parade.
A Little History
At its debut in 1992, Zürich’s Street Parade was attended by a mere one thousand people. But, as of 2001, it has become the largest open-air festival of electro and the city’s biggest annual event. Attendance has approached one million people in the last five years, although this has not posed any safety issues. It is worth recalling that, on 24 July 2010, a stampede at Duisburg’s Love Parade led to a crowd disaster which caused the deaths of 21 people and left about 500 injured. This sad spectacle has conditioned the organisation of such parades forever, with the emphasis now being on infrastructure and safety measures. For this reason, and on account of its calling as a peace festival, everyone abides by the rules and Zürich’s Street Parade is regarded as one of the safest mass crowd events.
Street Parade – Magic Moments
The leitmotif of this year’s parade is Magic Moments and the official anthem was written by the Swiss music producer, Alex Price. A large number of DJs will be participating in the event. They include some great international stars and will be contributing their work free of charge, as a result of the respect elicited by the festival on an international level, as well as its good organisation and the not-for-profit spirit of its organisers.
The Picturesque Parade Route
The parade begins at 1 p.m. at the Utoquai jetty in the district of Seefeld. From here, it will head to the area around Zürichsee – Lake Zürich – one of the most spectacular spots in the city. It then continues along Bellevue Street and Quaibrücke, and will end at Hafendamm Enge around midnight. The march-past runs for 3 kilometres, taking in some of the city’s most picturesque and interesting areas. It will be escorted by 30 trucks loaded with sound equipment, loudspeakers, dancers and DJs, each one representing a prominent Swiss or foreign club. There will also be six fixed stage settings at points along the riverbank route, each with its own programme.
A Long Dancing Weekend
Make the most of your stay in Zürich and also visit the other, albeit smaller-scale, events and celebrations of all kinds – of which there are about a hundred – hosted in Zürich’s various quarters. One of the most emblematic parallel festivals is the legendary Lethargy, in Rote Fabrik. Another interesting option is to visit Hiltl, inscribed in the Guinness Book of Records as the world’s oldest vegetarian restaurant – which opened in 1898 – while simultaneously enjoying one of the best clubs in town.
Some Pointers
- While the event is admission-free, buying a drink can be expensive and complicated. Be cautious and take at least one bottle of water with you to avoid dehydration.
- Don’t be shy and dress up to impress. It’s the right time to let yourself be carried away by your whim, so try on the most outlandish garb. But, make sure it is cool and comfortable because the day will be long and hectic.
Summer marches on and the party continues. They are well aware of that in Zürich. Don’t let this chance to enjoy the best parade pass you by. Check out our flights here.
Text by Scanner FM
Images by Street Parade
more infoBack To The Past
Dornbirn is a town in the administrative district of the same name, located in the federal state of Vorarlberg in Austria. it lies south of Bregenz, near the borders of Switzerland, Germany and Liechtenstein. The Dornbirner Ach river flows through the town before draining into Lake Constance. Dornbirn is the largest town in Vorarlberg and an important hub of trade. It is the regional site of ORF (the Austrian Radio and Television Service), the Fachhochschule (Vorarlberg University of Applied Sciences) and other institutions. The town was a major centre of the textile industry until its decline in the 1980s.
The Martinimarkt (St Martin’s Market) of Dornbirn is one of the leading markets in Austria. Participants include exhibitors, schools, clubs and restaurants from all over the district. The hallmark of this market is its pronounced nostalgic character, as everyone dresses up in costumes from the early 19th century. This year’s theme is “sharing” as legend has it that St Martin shared his cloak with a beggar. This has prompted merchants to offer visitors their regional or homemade wares. Schools and clubs make special offers on that day, too, and workshops are held to show how hand-made or recycled products are crafted. As in previous years, the Martinimarkt is held in the town centre, which turns into a huge stage hosting a mass tableau vivant.
Market Day
The day starts early. At 8.45 a.m. everyone converges around the clock tower, adjoining the market square, where free coffee is served. This is the gesture by which the merchants welcome their visitors. At 10 o’clock, the mayor, attired in period costume, presides over the official opening ceremony by delivering a speech from the Red House staircase.
Afterwards, to get into the swing of things, you either wander around the street stalls or stand and watch people filing past. It is like going back in time to a period in which the word “motor” meant as little as “iPhone 7”. Here, you can find anything – and try everything, too! When it comes to cuisine, pride of place is given to traditional local cooking: coffee, käsfladen (flat bread and cheese typical of the region), noodle soup, apple fritters, potato balls, etc. The entertainment part includes a dance floor for participating in the local folk dances, with live music provided by a band, making for a setting seemingly having leaped out of a romantic novel, while children can have a whale of a time in the antique fairground. One of the most popular games here is the wheel of fortune, the proceeds of which are earmarked for charity.
Dinner and Overnight
After a day packed with emotions, your legs start feeling heavy as evening approaches. At this stage, the best thing is to get your strength back and have a hearty dinner. Here are some recommendations in the fascinating town of Dornbirn.
1. Rotes Haus
If you want to discover local cuisine in all its splendour, head for Rotes Haus. This restaurant is a classic. What’s more, it is located next to the market square, so you can’t get any closer than that. When we went there, we ordered a consommé with panqueque (a South American variation on the pancake) with grated local herbs, and a breaded beef escalope with parsley potatoes and cranberries – we loved this typical local dish!
2. Zum Verwalter
This is actually a boutique hotel gourmet-restaurant. The establishment is a lovely timber house which will wow enthusiasts of interior design, as all the rooms are done out in different décor. Each space is a story on its own. The gourmet restaurant is on the ground floor. It is certainly unique as far as local catering is concerned. The restaurant enjoys long-standing acclaim, thanks to its marked admix of traditional cuisine, striking a marked contrast with the young catering staff. They offer locally sourced market produce. Their meat is outstanding, while the roast beef is spectacular!
3. Pasta Fresca da Giovanni
This is clearly the best value-for-money option. Located on the Stadtstrasse, this restaurant is conveniently situated next to the main road going through the town. The interior is very relaxing as the decoration is sparse. We recommend you order the pasta of the house, as they make it themselves. The ravioli stuffed with plum and the cheese-fondue potatoes are unbeatable.
All aboard for your trip back in time… check out our flights.
Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
Images by Jerey Keith, Pasta Fresca da Giovanni, Zum Verwalter
more infoBring your skis or snowboard on board
Want to explore the best ski resorts in the Alps but prefer to take your own skis or snowboard? We totally understand – you'll enjoy it even more with your own gear! Luckily nowadays most airlines let you check your gear in as special luggage, and it's affordable, too!
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