The Seven Deadly Sins of Turin
The sins of lust, gluttony, greed, sloth, wrath, envy, and pride were singled out as the deadliest by early Christians, and yet their popularity remains unchecked. Turin, with its sublime beauty, its elegantpalazzosand boulevards, and enchanting personality, is a great place to indulge your favourites.
Lust
Lust is commonly regarded as being produced by excessive thinking. For abundances we have the Palazzo dell’Accademia delle Science,containing the Museo Egizio Museum, which holds the most important collection of Egyptian archaeological treasures outside Cairo. But nothing is more opulent than the Piazza Castello. This square boasts several museums, theatres, and cafés of note. There we find the Museo Civico d’Arte Antica in the fabulous Palazzo Madama, a castle that is half medieval and half Baroque, and the museum contains modern and contemporary works of art. At night it’s easier to reach the state of lust. The city’s best night spots are in Murazzi del Po, amongst the archways next to the rive, between the Vittorio Emanuele I and Umberto I bridges. Much to be recommended are the clubs Hiroshima Mon Amour (Via Bossoli, 83), the United Club (Corso Vigevano, 33) which is the meeting point for the city’s rock scene, and Blah Blah (Via Po, 21), in a former cinema.
Gluttony
For unbridled consumption of food and drink to the point of satiety and beyond, try a breakfast or brunch at the morning food specialist Andrea Perino(Via Cavour, 10), a favourite of such luminaries as Alexandre Dumas, Friedrich Nietzsche, and Giacomo Puccini. Or have an excellent cup of coffee at the welcoming Caffè Mulassano (Piazza Castello, 15). This art nouveau café, decorated with gilt carvings of bronze, wood, and leather, was once frequented by the Savoy family and by performers from the adjacent Teatro Regio. Here you’ll find the city’s best stand-up espresso. To continue with luxurious excess, there’s the Caffè San Carlo (Piazza San Carlo, 156), an unbeatable option. There’s nothing like its cakes and sweets, made to recipes more than a century old. To end the day with some serious overeating, your best choice is Sfashion (Via Cesare Battisti, 13), for Turin’s best pizzas, with thick dough and traditional Neapolitan ingredients. But your gluttony needn’t end there. Keep in mind that the first chocolate in tablet form was made in Turin when you visit Al Bicerin (Piazza della Consolata, 5) to try some. In addition, in March the city hosts a famous chocolate fair, known as Cioccola-tó.
Greed/Envy
Greed is a sin of excess in the acquisition of wealth. The elegant tree-lined boulevards and porticoed promenades feature the city’s most expensive fashion boutiques. More affordable clothing is to be found on the pedestrian mall on Via Garibaldi, and in Via Po there are amazing shops selling records and vintage or alternative clothes. But we can also find just the opposite in Turin, the birthplace of Arte Povera (“poor art”), a revolutionary artistic movement in the 1960s, whose members employed humble materials to awaken memories and symbolisms through sculpture and installations. The movement had a major international impact thanks to artists like Gilberto Zorio, Giuseppe Penone, Mario Merz, and Michelangelo Pistoletto.
Sloth
Sloth is related to ordinary laziness or the lack of motivation to do anything. It’s a well-known fact that during a trip the days are often exhausting. That’s why it makes sense to schedule in some relaxation time, and the best place to chill in Turin is Parco Valentino, the park on the banks of the Po. A number of open-air bars and restaurants operate there from late spring to early autumn. And at night, there’s nothing better than to walk back to your room at the Hotel Dogana Vecchia (Via Corte d’Appello, 4), built in the early 19th C. Mozart was a guest there, and so was Napoleon. The location in the Quadrilatero Romano makes it one of the city’s best hotels.
Wrath
Wrath may be described as a disorderly, uncontrolled sentiment, such as that which can be provoked by one of the world’s greatest historical mysteries: The Holy Shroud of Turin, revered by many as the burial shroud of Jesus ever since 1898, when photographic techniques revealed the negative imprint of a man’s face and body on the cloth. The Museo della Sindone is in the crypt of the church of the Sacra Sindone (Via Santo Doménico, 28). Another building that can disquiet us is the Museo Nazionale del Risorgimento Italiano, located in the Baroque Palazzo Carignano, a former residence of princes.
Envy/Jealousy
Envy is characterised by the coveting of someone else’s possessions. And that’s the predominant feeling among visitors to the Museo dell'Automobile as they eye the four-wheeled gems on display, the most marvellous cars on the planet. But to turn our envy a deeper shade of green we should visit Turin’s cathedral, the Duomo di San Giovanni (Piazza San Giovanni), built in 1491-1498 on the site of three old churches. In one of the chapel the actual Holy Shroud of Turin is kept.
Pride
On nearly all lists of sins, pride is regarded as the original one and the most serious of all. It is identified as the desire to be more important or attractive than others. In the past, the local football teams led the league at a distance from the rest. In the 1940s Torino FC was the undisputed leader, winning five consecutive titles, but the entire teams died in a plane crash in 1949. Four decades later it was the turn of Turin’s other first-division team, Juventus, starring the three-time Golden Boot winner Michel Platini. But there are other sources of pride, such as one of the city’s most famous symbols, the 167-meter tower Mole Antonelliana (Via Montebello, 20), with an aluminium spire, reaching closer to heaven than any other building in this magical city.
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Report by Isabel y Luis Comunicación
Pictures by Turismo Torino e Provincia
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The White Truffle – Queen of the Piedmont
If any product is sought after in the culinary world it is the truffle. Some humble fried eggs can be transformed into a veritable delicacy by simply adding thin sections of this aromatic fungus. One of the most coveted varieties is the white truffle found around the Piedmontese town of Alba. Also known under its scientific name, tuber magnatum pico, it is regarded as the “Mozart of fungi” or “white diamond” ofhaute cuisine.In addition to its exquisite taste, truffles are also noted for being one of the most expensive products on the market. When it comes to prices, they can even unseat another gastronomic gem – saffron. In many instances, the price of truffles can be in the €3,000 to €6,000 price range. The record was set by a Hong Kong buyer who in 2010 paid a whopping €90,000 for a truffle!
The main reason for white truffle fetching such high prices is that it is in short supply and difficult to extract. It is found some ten to fifteen centimetres under the ground, where the humidity and freshness conditions are ideal for its growth. Care has to be taken to avoid damaging or breaking the truffle when extracting it, a task requiring some skill and delicateness. Formerly, pigs were used for this purpose, a function now performed by dogs, which also happen to be less likely to consume their find. The truffle-hunting season is limited to autumn and the procedure usually takes place at night, when the sniffer dogs rely heavily on their sense of smell.
Apart from the leading chefs, the host of white truffle enthusiasts includes such celebrities as Alfred Hitchcock, Francis Ford Coppola, Gérard Depardieu, Alain Delon, Penélope Cruz and Oprah Winfrey. One of its outstanding properties is that it does not require cooking, while its scent is highly volatile.
The Great White Truffle Fair
The International Alba White Truffle Fair is held each year in October and November, a grand event which unfolds around this prized natural delicacy but also features tributes to other culinary marvels in the area. The Alba White Truffle Auction is the crowning moment of the fair. Held in the Hall of Masks at Grinzane Castle, is attracts a worldwide following. Incidentally, the auction also involves a good cause, as part of the proceedings are donated to charity.
The fair programme also includes the so-called White Truffle Market where visitors can enjoy themselves by examining, touching and smelling these gastronomic delicacies, all endowed with the relevant quality certifications and displayed amid strict security. Of the many activities hosted is the Alba Truffle Show, which includes debates between prestigious chefs and live cooking sessions at which secrets are revealed regarding ways of getting the most out of the truffle.
However, the limelight is not exclusive to the tuber magnatum pico at this fair, as areas are also dedicated to the region’s gastronomy. The Truffle Market stalls display local produce, notably cheese, sausage, meat, homemade pastries and egg-based pasta. Wines, too, are very much in evidence, including Barolo, Barbaresco, Roero, Nebbiolo, Dolcetto, Barbera, Favorita, Arneis and Moscato.
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Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
Photos by Blue moon in her eyes
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