Lost & Found in London
My Vueling City and Mondo Sonoro will be joining forces over the next few months to focus on the music and pop culture aspects of some of Vueling’s destinations. It couldn’t be otherwise – the alliance made its debut in London, the cradle of pop music. For this premiere we decided to spend a weekend accompanying Joan S. Luna, chief editor of this established music magazine. It was a heady few days during which we found time for everything – culinary variety, from Spanish gourmet drawn through an English filter, to fusion to fast food of dubious excellence, to comics and long strolls along Bankside, Oxford Street and Dalston, the district that is chalking up points to become the British capital’s new Soho. We often got lost in the maze-like network of public transport, and also ended up at the odd party, of course. Here, then, is what we did over the 40 hours we spent in London.
The Warm-up
We hit the megacity on a Friday afternoon. What with the time change, however, it was more night than afternoon. It was a typical London day – cold and rainy to different degrees. But, that was of no consequence to us. We had planned to meet the Mondo Sonoro crew at the magnificent Ibérica Victoria restaurant, the latest to be spawned by the family of Ibérica establishments, the talk of the town in London and Manchester. This is where we first met Joan S. Luna, the protagonist of this post. For him it was “a pleasure to savour the fantastic menu offered by Ibérica. Friendly service, great food and a decor that impacts from the outset. The interior design is really striking”. Indeed, the reception counter is crowned by a sort of cloud made up of all kinds of kitchenware. The restaurant was designed by the architect, Lázaro Rosa Violán, from Barcelona’s Estudios Contemporain. Here you can delight in the finest Spanish cuisine, but with an English flourish, considering that 95% of the guests are local. The head chef is none other than the Michelin twice-starred Nacho Manzano. Prevalent among his offerings are the meats and carefully crafted tapas. Make sure you try their croquettes – Marcos Fernández, Ibérica’s Managing Director, revealed that their secret lies in having a chef dedicated exclusively to tapas. We can also recommend their “twice cooked lamb”, marinated in cherries, tomatoes and red peppers from the Bierzo region. Once we had eaten to the full, the wisest thing was to retire to build up our strength for the Saturday, which we knew was going to run well into the early morning hours.
Just Another Hipster Day
London has been at the forefront of grass-roots European culture since the seventies. The length and breadth of the city is graced by neighbourhoods that operate as veritable incubators of trends. Here it is decided what the “in thing” for the next few weeks is to be. A short while ago it was all the rage to grow a beard, return to a traditional lifestyle and submit to vintage interiors. So, who knows what the trend is now? Maybe stamp collecting will suddenly become the hipster fashion.
We decided to begin with a bit of pop culture, so we spent the morning at the Tate Modern where we saw the exhibition, The World Goes Pop. “More than the exhibits themselves, it was quite an eye opener to discover the somewhat hidden face of the Pop Art boom, or how its shock wave yielded fruit in such countries as Spain, Poland and Japan”, remarked Joan when we emerged from the stunning building, a former power station dating from the forties. We then took a stroll through Bankside, where we came across one of the city’s numerous Christmas markets. “For me Bankside is one of the most attractive areas. You can roam its streets and end up wondering whether you are actually in a big city or a small coastal town”.
Motley Afternoon
After lunch, we set off to indulge one of Joan’s great pursuits – manga, comics and sci-fi. We got to Tottenham Court Road station and, after getting lost for the umpteenth time (along Oxford Street, on this occasion), we managed to locate that temple of cult entertainment, the nerdy store par excellence, Forbidden Planet. “This is obviously a landmark for enthusiasts of comics and fantasy literature. Once a compulsory reference point, it may have lost some of its clout to the slew of similar establishments that have popped up in other cities across the world. Despite that, it is an entertaining venue where time really flies”. And indeed it did. We then headed along Denmark Street and were taken aback by the sight of so many music shops – there were even some specialising in basses. After that we made for Dalston, the city’s new wicked precinct. Dalston is an ugly street, so don’t expect a pretty sight. It is full of Turkish restaurants touting döner kebab. However, it is well known for its night scene and for being one of the gay areas. “It was surprising to see how a suburb – or small satellite town – like Dalston has grown into a burgeoning hub of nightlife with noteworthy cultural offerings”. It boasts loads of sleazy joints consisting of narrow basements and endless lines of revellers queuing up to get in. After ambling about, we decided to whet our whistles at The Victoria. “It was a real surprise, set in the heart of Dalston. A grand programme hosted by DJs of diverse styles and some underground concerts to write home about”. We were also splendidly chaperoned by David García, the floor manager.
Experiencing London’s Nightlife
We then went to dinner at The Richmond, “a restaurant where everything works to perfection, from the delightful before-dinner cocktails to the assortment of unusual and highly elaborate dishes”. In effect. Impressively, some of the cocktails were named after groups. The one we liked best was the Sage Against the Machine, based on Wolfschmidt Kümmel, Cocchi Americano, fresh lime and sage. Of the dishes we tasted we can recommend the Galloway beef sirloin matured for 35 days with brine-soaked onion rings and marrowbone. After the tuck-in, and the excellent service dispensed by Vanita Prasad, the locale’s head waiter, we rushed off to The Scala, “one of the most emblematic multi-purpose venues in London offering a balanced set of diverse events in the various areas. The concerts I saw there are still fresh in my mind”, Joan recalls. Incidentally, that is where the last Mega Spanish Party of 2015 was held, organised by Rock Sin Subtítulos Productions Ltd, a promoter dedicated to hosting Spanish artists in London. Joan S. Luna was actually billed to DJ the best hits from here and there at the party. The night went off well, with a packed venue and the satisfaction of having made the most of our short stay in London.
Recommendations
Above all, we advise you to have a map handy (preferably an analog map, to avoid having to frantically search for free wi-fi areas to follow Google Maps from your mobile). London is a colossal city with – shall we say – an unusual urban layout. If you want to use public transport, you need to first take out a diploma, as understanding its workings is for advanced users only. We recommend you take your time moving from A to B, as you are likely to get lost at some stage or spend some time getting your bearings. If you’re going for a weekend or just a few days, the best thing is to take out an Oyster Card. They can be topped up and this is undoubtedly the fastest, most comfortable and economical way of funding single rides by bus, underground, DLR, tram, Thames Clippers, Emirates Air Line and most National Rail services. Another economical and efficient way of moving about the City is by Uber London, a more flexible alternative to taking taxis. Using their mobile app, you can located the nearest vehicles and calculate the estimated waiting time, fare and journey time. And, you have it all recorded, in case you need to file a complaint.
This, then, is the first of a series of joint experiences between My Vueling City and Mondo Sonoro. Our next stop will be in 2016. Music will of course be the pretext for our forthcoming post. But, where are we headed – Paris, Manchester, Berlin, Ibiza…? Stay tuned, and you will soon find out.
Oh! I nearly forgot – it you want to enjoy all these fun spots in London, check out our flights here.
Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
Images by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación, Wikipedia Commons, Ibérica Food & Culture Ltd.
more infoLondon – a City of Football Fields
In England, football culture is a world apart. Match days become a liturgy in which fans turn soccer players, the pitch and the ball into their own holy trinity. Football fever has London as its holy city, and its numerous stadiums as endearing temples of goal worship. The city boasts five teams in the Premier League, a list of companies added to a sizeable bunch of historic clubs. Here, then, are the 10 best stadiums in London.
10. Leyton Orient FC
Stadium: Brisbane Road. District: Leyton
While lacking a prize-winning record, and although having spent several seasons drifting in the Football League Two, Leyton Orient FC is one of London’s most endearing teams, as is their stadium. Inaugurated in 1937,Brisbane Road breathes everything one would expect from a historic British field – terraces, throaty songs and a sour smell of warm beer.
9. Queens Park Rangers FC
Stadium: Loftus Road Stadium. District: Shepherd’s Bush
While the West Endstands for an upmarket London, Queens Park Rangers FC encapsulates its glamorous side in football. Once the seat ofShepherd’s Bush FC (the club closed down in 1915), since 1917Loftus Road has been the home of The Hoops. Another iconic shoebox exuding footballing legend from its four grandstands, which its owners are unfortunately thinking of retiring.
8. Millwall FC
Stadium: The Den. District: South Bermondsey
Their football fans are known to be among Britain’s most belligerent, to which the followers of Millwall FC reply with their chant: “No one like us, we don’t care”. Founded in 1885 by a group of stevedores, from 1910 to 1933 Millwall played at a stadium known asThe Den.It was then demolished to make way forThe New Den,the first stadium to be built after the Hillsborough tragedy. It was also the home ground for the fictitious club,Harchester United,the fortunes of which were the plot of a television series,Dream Team,broadcast by the Sky channel from 1997 to 2007.
7. Tottenham Hotspurs FC
Stadium: White Heart Lane. District: Tottenham
Founded in 1882, Tottenham Hotspurs FC set up atWhite Hart Lane in 1899. Until 1972, it was one of the few stadiums that lacked advertising signage installations, after which it also succumbed to football marketing. Eternally vying for the hegemony of North London football with their eternal rivals, Arsenal, Spurs couldn’t keep turning down the prospect of extra revenues from advertising. Despite the charm of their home ground, the development plans of the Lilywhites, as the Spurs’ fans are known, involves building a new stadium alongside the existing one
6. Fulham FC
Stadium: Craven Cottage. District: Fulham
Fulham FC have always had a soft spot for their stadium, while berating the ground of their rivals, Chelsea, with whom they have kept up one of the staunchest rivalries in London football. Built in 1866,Craven Cottage is one of the most historic and architecturally beautiful grounds in English football. In front of the main entrance to the stadium is a statue of…Michael Jackson, a personal tribute to the King of Pop from his friend, the club’s chairman,Mohamed Al-Fayed.
5. Chelsea FC
Stadium: Stamford Bridge. District: Fulham
Stamford Bridgewas originally earmarked to be Fulham FC’snew ground, after having been based since 1866 at Craven Cottage just opposite. When the latter refused to move, another occupant of the premises had to be sought. Eventually, the London Athletics Club was founded for the purpose, and in 1905 it was renamed Chelsea FC. Located at the Shed End of the pitch is theChelsea Centenary Museum,surely one of the most interesting football museums in London.
4. West Ham United FC
Stadium: Upton Park. District: Upton Park
Thames Ironworks FCemerged in 1895, later to be calledWest Ham United FC, the team of the shipyards’ ironworkers. West Ham’s social legacy has led their fans, the “hammers”, to stake their claim as representatives of the East London working-class spirit. They dispute this class pride with their archrivals, Millwall. Their cockney essence comes to the fore on match days atUpton Park,West Ham United’s home ground since 1904. The Upton Park team is nicknamedThe Academy of Football,on account of its excellent work with homegrown talent, among other things. Sadly, as of the 2016–2017 season, West Ham will move to theLondon Olympic Stadium.
3. Arsenal FC
Stadium: The Emirates Stadium. District: Holloway
Unveiled in the summer of 2006, the Emirates Stadiumis one of the most striking colosseums in the world. Even so, Arsenal FC will always be associated with its old home ground,Highbury.After the club moved from these premises, Highbury has been reconverted into luxury apartments. The original facade of the stadium has been preserved intact, while the rectangular pitch has been turned into a green square. The flats are located on the site of the former main stands.
2. The Football Association
Stadium: Wembley. District: Wembley
Wembley stadium, crowned by its emblematic twin towers, opened on 28 April 1923. That same evening it hosted the FA Cup Final between Bolton Wanderers and West Ham United. From then on it has become, as Pelé once declared, “…the cathedral of football. It is the capital of football and it is the heart of football.” Demolished in 2003, the new Wembley was erected on the same site and, while it is no longer the original ground, it is still regarded astheSTADIUM.
1. Brentford FC
Stadium: Griffin Park. District: Brentford
Founded in 1889, in its one-hundred-year history,Brentford FChasn’t played a single season in the top flight. This modest record has not prevented The Bees, as the fans of this West London club are known, from topping this chart. Why is this so? Because, not only doesGriffin Parkevoke everything one could imagine when picturing an English football ground – it also has the unique claim to being the only football stadium in Britain (and, probably, the world) that has a pub in each of its four corners. It wins the number 1 spot, hands down!
Whether you like football or not, a tour of these veritable sports cathedrals is worth the trip to London. Check out our flights here.
Text by Oriol Rodríguez
more infoClassy London Cafés & Drinks
London is well known for its large number of watering holes with the odd modish touch. Here is a selection of five bars where you are sure to come across more than one surprise.
1- Evans & Peel Detective Agency
Get onto the space and time machine and travel back to the 1920s, to one of the speakeasies that operated illegally during the Prohibition era in the United States. London has several “clandestine” bars, although there are virtually none in West London, so the Evans & Peel Detective Agency is a must-visit for the adventurous all-nighters in the area. Admission is strictly by appointment with the detective agency, specialising in blackmail and missing persons. You will be met by one of the detectives in his office and, if you cough up about everything you are supposed to know, he will motion you into a dimly-lit room where you will be served bottles of liquor wrapped in brown paper – to put the authorities off your scent – notably some amazing cocktails brewed American-style.
2- Viktor Wynd Museum Of Curiosities
A weird spot? There you go… the Viktor Wynd Museum of Curiosities, Fine Art and Natural History will meet your expectations if you’re seeking a unique (and ornate) experience. Here, fantasy knows no bounds and anything goes. Share a table with a big cat by candlelight? Go ahead! Sip on a cocktail alongside a skeleton sleeping in a coffin? This is your spot. Interested in anything related to taxidermy? You simply must come. Here, bizarre things have an added value and enhance the experience. The best idea is to pay an amusing visit to the “museum of curiosities” set up by Mr Wynd, an artist enthralled with subversive worlds and a limitless imagination, and end off in the Museum Café/Bar, where they serve cocktails. To round off the experience with a bite, in line with the locale, make sure you order a hamburger. Which one would you like – a zebra or crocodile hamburger?
3- Sew Over It
Get this – we have to admit that the Sewing Café is not entirely a café, but we simply couldn’t resist mentioning it. More than anything else, it is a workshop and sewing school run by ever-charming Grace, its owner, who always has some advanced-level dressmaking project up her sleeve. Her two sewing shops are transformed into a Sewing Café on certain days of the week, becoming co-working spaces where you can have as many cups of tea as you like and use the thread, patterns, fabric, sewing machines and overlockers. Sew It Over brings together groups of people – mainly women – to work on sewing projects and to share ideas and resolve concerns. Why not dedicate a while during your holidays to do a bit of sewing and get to know passionate DIY Londoners? There are two Sewing Cafés – one in Clapham and another in Islington.
4- Ladies and Gentleman
Several public toilets in London have been turned into trendy bars. If your first reaction is aversion to having a drink in a former loo, explore everything Ladies and Gentleman in Kentish Town has to offer and you will understand why hipsters jostle over tables in this inviting cocktail bar. The white square floor tiles and the sign over a bidet saying that “it is forbidden to wash anything other than face and hands” reminds us that we are in an erstwhile public toilet. The heart-stopping cocktails are guaranteed to make us forget anything else. Don’t arrive late – it’s always full.
5- Bounce
The Home of Ping Pong – this is how Bounce describes itself. It has two venues in London – Farringdon and Shoreditch – and will shortly be opening a third branch in Chicago. Its two London venues boast a total of 28 ping pong tables available for customers. They can be hired by the hour or half-hour from £10. The folks at Bounce take things seriously – the bats and balls are included in the price, and they even offer tips on their website for improving your skills. The interiors in both venues are conscientiously designed and feature spacious rooms suited to groups. Their menu and pizzas with antipasti are highly recommendable and they offer a large variety of gins and craft beers.
Ready to discover London’s more unusual watering holes? Book your Vueling here.
Text by Rita Peré for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
more infoLondon in 10 Fish & Chips
A sign up in the entrance to Rock And Sole Plaice proclaims there is nothing more British than a good helping of fish and chips doused in salt and sprinkled with vinegar. Indeed, along with afternoon tea, the Union Jack, Beckham and Victoria and the Gallagher brothers’ diatribes, this dish is one of the grand institutions of British society. Having staged a comeback in the islands after decades of decline, this simple but exquisite and foolproof combination of batter-fried codfish and a good helping of chips is drawing ever more adepts. Here, then, are London’s 10 best chippies, which will turn you into a die-hard supporter of the cause.
Bonnie Gull
Fish and chips is just one of the offerings on the menu at Bonnie Gull, but their version of it is so ineffably delicious they could easily dedicate themselves solely to this dish. Their fish is battered North Sea haddock with a varnish of beer and tempura, giving it a doubly crunchy texture. Their chips, a greasy indulgence, are cooked slowly in beef dripping. To not dip them in their homemade ketchup would be unforgiveable.
Fish Central
A veritable London culinary institution specialising in fish. Opened in 1968, very few things have changed since then at the Fish Central. In their case, this is great news. As its name suggests, their menu offers the best and freshest fish and seafood, from humble sardines to pompous oysters. Their fish and chips, among the best in town, provide an exquisite contrast between the excitingly crunchy chips, and tender codfish which melts in your mouth.
Fish Club
Strict rules about how fish and chips should be made limit the varieties of fish to cod – or, failing that, haddock. Luckily for our palates and stomachs, The FishClub flouts the regulations. This small chippy, with two branches in The City, also makes fish and chips from sardines, gilt-head bream, mackerel, sole and – the great speciality of the house – pollock, among others. Guests can choose between classical-style batter (a mixture of flour, egg and beer), breadcrumbs, grilled, baked or fried. The only item which is set are their chips, which are large, potent and crunchy.
The Golden Hind
A classic among classics, in 2014 the folks at The Golden Hind celebrated their hundredth anniversary as purveyors of fish and chips in London. Peerless masters of the trade, they conceal their scrumptious haddock under a feathery-light batter. This is accompanied, needless to day, by generous helpings of chunky potatoes. Those of you who are not too keen on tubers can swap the chips for colourful, appetising sautéed peas. Golden Hind, 73 Marylebone Lane.
Golden Union Fish Bar
In the heart of Soho, Golden Union has been frying up their wares for over a hundred and fifty years. Such centennial experience translates into generous portions of codfish, perfectly seasoned and coated in a crunchy batter which – thanks to some secret recipe – has a texture similar to puff pastry. Special mention goes to their silky, spongy French fries.
Kerbisher & Malt
A top-drawer chippy, with four restaurants dotted around London – we recommend the one on Shepherd’s Bush Road. Here, the popular British culinary classic comes in many venues and options, notably battered in beer, in accordance with tradition, fried in breadcrumbs or grilled, for those who are seeking a healthier variety. Their superior quality chips are accompanied with mouth-watering mushy peas, pickled onion rings, coleslaw or homemade tartare sauce.
Poppie’s
Behind a somewhat kitsch decor, a re-creation of London’s East End in the 40s and 50s, lies one of the best spots for wolfing down fish and chips. The classic aesthetics also spills over into their cuisine. The folks at Poppie’s don’t try to innovate, but to raise tradition to the nth degree – a hearty slice of codfish delivered fresh from Billingsgate market, and chips of the kind that are crunchy on the outside and spongy on the inside.
Rock And Sole Plaice
This is Idris Elba’s favourite chippy. We support his verdict, not so much for the quality of their fare as for the experience as a whole. Off the beaten track in an alley next to Covent Garden, the Rock and Soile Plaice is scarcely a few square metres of white tiles coated in a fine, greasy layer. Their cute terrace is the best place to eat. A typical venue where you feel like just another Briton stuffing yourself with fried fish.
Sutton And Sons
Danny Sutton, the owner of this fish-and-chips shop, listed in all guides as one of the best in town, also runs a fishmonger’s in the same street. No wonder then that anything they serve up at Sutton and Sons is so fresh it is liable to leap off the plate. Their top-of-the-line fish and chips is much more wholesome when paired with one of their numerous craft beers. For dessert, we recommend Mrs Sutton’s caramel pudding.
Toff’s
Ever since they opened in 1968, experts, connoisseurs and epicures of fish and chips have chosen it on more than one, two or three occasions as the best chippy in both London and the United Kingdom. Juicy, scaly codfish coated with fatless, crunchy batter. While the generous island of fish surrounded by crispy chips does not appear to be based on any special recipe, you will be itching to come back to this chippy on Muswell Hill even before you leave it.
Come and try this classic of British cuisine – book your Vueling to London here.
Text by Oriol Rodríguez for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by Mark Hillary , Marshall Segal, RosieTulips, Ewan Munro, Duncan C
more info