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Tangier – A Journey of Inspiration

Some destinations attract visitors for their museums; others, for their beaches or mountains, for the energy they give off or, simply, because they are fashionable. In the case of Tangier, the journey is inevitably related to the inspiration and yearnings for the past which it harbours like some muse of the arts. Myriad artists and scholars have passed through that city, located on the northern tip of Morocco, and have become spellbound by its charms.

The Light and Colour of Tangier

The first artist to be captivated by Tangier was the French painter, Eugène Delacroix. In 1832 he journeyed there as part of a diplomatic mission and ended up being seduced by its light and colour, as masterfully portrayed in such paintings as Jewish Wedding in Morocco.

The Spanish painter, Mariano Fortuny, who was familiar with Delacroix’s production, also went to Tangier in search of that magic, which infused a host of sketches and notes for his Orientalist works.

Henri Matisse reached Tangier in 1912. There, not only did he encounter “the landscapes of Morocco just as Delacroix had depicted them in his paintings”, as he himself stated, but he also discovered a new palette of colours for his own works. He took up lodgings in room 35 of the extant Grand Hotel Villa de France, where he painted such works as Window at Tangier.

Paul Bowles, Tangier and the Beat Generation

Tangier became a veritable beacon for writers, particularly in the 1950s and part of the 1960s. And, no wonder, as from 1923 to 1956 the city was a demilitarised zone under joint administration by various countries. This measure was implemented on account of its strategic position in the Strait of Gibraltar and the ensuing international disputes over its control. Known as the Tangier International Zone, it became a place of passage for many people – diplomats, adventurers, artists, spies and others. Functioning as “everyone’s city” or, if you will, “no man’s city”, it enjoyed an unusual status as a place of freedom and tolerance which would be difficult to find elsewhere.

One of the best known regulars in the city was the writer and composer, Paul Bowles, who arrived in Tangier in 1947 and was completely swept off his feet by its charms. It was there that he wrote his first novel, The Sheltering Sky, so masterfully ported to the cinema by the director, Bernardo Bertolucci. Then ensued the arrival of other creative figures, including Truman Capote, Tennessee Williams and Francis Bacon. And, he was also instrumental in spawning the Beat Generation – William Burroughs, Allen Ginsberg and Jack Kerouac, who succumbed to the allure of a place where they could give free rein to their imagination and – there’s no denying it – their vices, too.

Tangier Today

What remains of all that past now? While a lot of water has flowed under the bridge since then, and the city is in the throes of a process of renewal, the spots which resonate of those artists are still standing.

A visit to the Grand Socco provides a suitable introduction to the city. Its pleasant ambience and colourfulness are guaranteed, as is your likelihood of (literally) getting lost in its streets. You will eventually end up willy-nilly in the Petit Socco, a square in the heart of the Medina, packed with cafés and restaurants. Another square, the Place de France, is also a must-see, as it is the site of the Grand Café de Paris, with a history of its own. This is where our protagonists spent countless hours chatting and observing the passers-by.

The Fondation Lorin, housed in a synagogue, boasts a fine collection of photographs, documents and posters that give you a good idea of what Tangier was like in the first half of the 20th century. Then there is the Tangier American Legation Museum, a visit not to be missed by enthusiasts of Paul Bowles as it features a section dedicated to the writer which displays photos, portraits and Moroccan musical scores which he recorded himself.

The Villa Muniria – now reconditioned as the Hotel El-Muniria (1, Rue Magellan) – was the favourite lodgings of the Beat Generation. Tennessee Williams and the Rolling Stones themselves were counted among the guests that stayed there. It was there, too, in room number 9, that William Burroughs wrote his seminal work, Naked Lunch.

Another landmark of literary Tangier is the Librairie des Colonnes (54, Boulevard Pasteur). It was a meeting place for writers and artists, while nowadays it continues to host cultural activities.

Like the writers and artists of yesteryear, allow yourself to succumb to the charms of this inspiring city and plan your trip with Vueling!

 

Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación

Images by Dieter WeineltAndrzej Wójtowicz

 

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Essential tips for travelling with kids

Mammaproof gives us some great advice on how to plan journeys and holidays with the whole family. They know what they're talking about because since they were founded in 2011 they've been working hard to guide parents on how to create quality family time, suggesting all kinds of activities and, at the same time, transforming cities into friendlier, more inclusive spaces for families. Follow their wise advice!

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What if I need to change or cancel my flight with Vueling?

If something unexpected happens and you have to change your plans, you have several options to change or cancel your flight.

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Smoked beer in Bamberg

By Oriol Salvador from scannerFM

Almost as important to anyone who visits the city of Bamberg, about one hour from Nuremburg, as discovering its historic and architectural heritage (the thousand-year-old cathedral, for example) is discovering the history of its beer: smoked beer (or Rauchbier in German).

It is a traditionally-made beer that is typical of Bamberg. The dark colour and smoky flavour is caused by leaving the malt to dry by fire during the production process. There are nine traditional breweries still in full operation in Bamberg, which produce a total of fifteen different types of smoked beer.

As part of the many attractions of paying a visit to the city of Bamberg, here we propose a quick tour to discover the traditional breweries that are dotted throughout the city and to try out the Rauchbier offered at each one.

Do we need to remind you to drink responsibly?

Klosterbräu

This brewery was established in 1533. It is a good place to start because it is not far from the city centre. Besides the good service and the friendly staff, you can try out the smoked beer they make on the premises and combine it with something from their extensive offer of traditional German cuisine. If the weather is favourable, you can even enjoy your beer at one of the tables on the streetside terrace.

One of the varieties they offer (and our recommendation) is the Klosterbräu Bockbier: a strong beer, with a subtle hint of hops, a great body and a certain sweetness to it. It has a 7% alcohol content and forms an excellent head over the golden liquid.

Open every day from 11:00 to 14:00 (Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays until 14:30) and from 17:00 and 22:00 (Sundays until 21:00). Further information: www.klosterbraeu.de (in German)

Ambräusianum

A young couple took the risk of opening Ambräusianum back in 2004, a new traditional brewery. Their gamble has paid off. In only a short few years, their brewery has become one of the most popular among both locals and visitors alike. The central location on Dominikanerstraße, very close to the cathedral, helps bring in trade.

Ambräusianum Hell is one of the most recommendable varieties of smoked beer among the many beers they offer: a strong beer (albeit with a moderate 5% alcohol content) with an amber-gold colour that is produced using natural yeast, giving it a fresh aroma and a certain fruity taste.

Open every day (except Monday) from 11:00. You can find more information and its menu of traditional German cuisine at: www.ambraeusianum.de (in German)

Fässla Brewery

The history behind the Fässla Brewery dates back to 1649, the first year of peace after the Thirty Years War. Today, a new generation that is well-trained in the art of brewing beer maintains the family tradition alive. What’s more, when looking for somewhere to stay in Bamberg, it is worth knowing that they also run a hotel.

The wide variety of beers they offer includes Echtes Bamberger Zwergla: a dark, almost mahogany-coloured beer with a moderate 6% alcohol content and a smooth, rounded finish. This and all the other varieties can be enjoyed at the brewery or bought to take away with you.

The brewery itself opens every day from 08:30 to 23:00 (Sundays until 13:00). They also offer traditional German cuisine from 11:00 until 14:00 and from 18:00 until 21:00 every day except Sunday. Further information can be found on the website at: www.faessla.de (in German and English)

Greifenklau Brewery

Discounting a pause during the first half of the 20th Century, the history behind Greifenklau dates back to 1731 and beyond. A little further from the city centre, they offer lunch and dinner in their restaurant with special prices and set meals for groups of tourists. If the sun is out, you can enjoy your beer in their large beer garden.

From among the variety of smoked beers they offer, we recommend the Greifenklau Lager: golden colour and a 4.8% alcohol content, an extremely white and creamy head, a slightly malty aroma and a smooth finish. A great example of the typical beer from the Franconia region of Germany.

Open Tuesday to Saturday from 10:30 and Sundays from 09:30 to 14:00. Closed on Mondays. Further information can be found at: www.greifenklau.de (in German and English)

Kaiserdom Brewery

While soaking up the atmosphere of the cosy dining hall at Kaiserdom, visitors can enjoy the typical cuisine of the Franconia region and its traditional beers. They have one modern dining hall and another more rustic one. They are both very welcoming but there is also a third option provided the weather is kind: the outdoor terrace. There is also a hotel on the same premises so staying the night (or longer!) is another option to be considered.

From among their selection of beers, we recommend the Weizenland Weißbier: a golden beer with a somewhat cloudy appearance due to the sediment from the yeast during fermentation in the bottle. It has a fresh, slightly fruity taste and is dry on the palate. A very refreshing beer.

As is the case at some other breweries, they are closed on Mondays. Open Tuesday to Saturday from 07:00 to 13:30 and 17:00 to 23:00. Open Sundays and public holidays from 11:30. Check www.hotel-kaiserdom.de (in German)

Keesmann Brewery

The Keesmann Brewery was established in 1867 and has maintained its family tradition ever since. Located opposite the Mariahilf Church, their offer includes wheat beer and light beer.

However, the Keesman Herren Pils is undoubtedly their star beer. A pale beer from which a certain malty aroma can be noted in an exquisitely dry body with a refreshing and highly-enjoyable finish.

Unlike other breweries in Bamberg, this one closes on Sundays. Open Monday to Saturday from 09:00 until 23:00 on weekdays and until 15:00 on Saturdays.

Mahr’s Bräu Brewery

Visiting the Mahr’s Bräu brewery means discovering one of the oldest breweries in the city of Bamberg. There are records to show it was established in 1670 and it has been offering a wide variety of beers ever since.

The most popular of them all must be the Mahr’s Ungespundetes, also known by its nickname: “U”. It is an amber-coloured beer with a certain cloudiness to it. It has a strong malt and yeast smell that gives it a rather unique aroma.

Open every day from 09:00 to 23:00.

Schlenkerla Brewery

This is one of the most popular traditional breweries in the city and also one of the most central. Trying its offer of smoked beers or its menu of traditional regional cuisine is just as recommendable as taking the time to savour the rustic décor to be found throughout the building. Historical documents record that this brewery was established in 1405 and the sixth generation of the Trum family is currently maintaining the tradition.

The beer we recommend from among its offer is perhaps the most characteristic of all smoked beers. Aecht Schlenkerla Rauchbier is a dark beer with a malty aroma and a certain smoky tasty that characterises and distinguishes it from others.

This brewery opens every day from 09:30 to 23:30. For further information, visit its website at: www.schlenkerla.de (in several languages, including English and Spanish)

Spezial Brewery

Only five minutes from the train station can be found the Spezial Brewery. This traditional brewery offers a rustic atmosphere and unmissable gastronomy. It also has a hotel.

The most recommendable smoked beer from among the varieties on offer at this brewery is the Spezial Rauchbier Lager: an amber beer with a creamy head. Somewhat cloudy in appearance, it is smooth on the palate and highly flavoursome.

Open every day of the week from 09:00 to 23:00, except on Saturdays, when it closes at 14:00. Further information at: www.brauerei-spezial.de (in German)

Franconian Brewery Museum

Having visited the nine traditional breweries that still operate in Bamberg, a good idea to conclude the tour is to visit this museum dedicated to the brewery tradition in the Franconia region. Open from 13:00 to 17:00 (April to October). Tickets cost € 3.00 (adults), € 2.50 (reduced rate) and € 6.50 (family rate).

Useful information

When looking for accommodation, and besides the options already mentioned previously at some of the breweries that also offer guest rooms, we recommend the Hotel Nepomuk very close to the centre (next to Klosterbräu where we began the tour). Its modern decoration, good service or the fact that each guest room comes with an iMac will certainly impress any visitor. Further information here.

When deciding how to get around the city, we recommend buying a BAMBERGcard, which, at a price of € 12, will give you access to the entire public transport network in the city and some of its museums. These cards can be purchased at the Bamberg Tourist Office (5 Geyerswörthstraße) or via the city’s website.

By Oriol Salvador from scannerFM

A perfect idea for travelling with friends! Check out our flights and off you go!

 

 

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