Amid Italy’s abundance of churches and chapels, mansions and museums, and the marble and bronze sculptures accumulating over the centuries, sometimes you need a break. And when you’re in Milan, the best place to go for a breath of fresh mountain air is Lake Como, a 146 km² Y-shaped body of water overlooked by the snow-capped Rhaetian Alps. Nestling on the verdant hillsides around the lake shore are a number of appealing towns such as the exquisite Bellagio, atop a hill in the crux of the “Y”, and the town of Como itself, the largest in the region. The lake, also known as Lario, is one of the prettiest places in all of Lombardy. The glacial, pre-alpine lake, as much as 400 meters deep, is ringed by mountains up to 2,700 metres tall, where you get magnificent views of the lake below. The area is rich in history and tradition, and is a favourite spot for recreation and relaxation. Splendid 17^th C. lakeshore villas, many with lush gardens, abound, as do rural Romanesque churches.

If you have time on the way to the lake or back to Milan, a journey taking about an hour by car, you should explore the green landscapes of the Brianza zone, dotted with villages and castles on the banks of the Adda and Lambro rivers.

A Trip on the Lake

There are numerous options for moving around on the lake. We recommend crossing it by ferry or hydrofoils. The Navigazione Lago di Como company operates services all year round from the dock on the northern extreme of the Piazza Cavour. You can also choose a Venetian-style vaporetto to get around the lake, stopping at the several charming towns on the shore, such as Cernobbio, Tremezzo, Cadenabia, and Menaggio. Visit a café for capuccino and a brioche, or a restaurant for a plate of good fresh pasta for lunch –served at midday in Italy– while drinking in the natural grandeur of the lake and surrounding landscape.

A Stroll through Como

There’s plenty to see in the elegant and prosperous town of Como, with a population of some 90,000. City walls built in the 12^th C. still stand around the old quarter. For several centuries the city’s main industry has been the weaving of silk items, and you can buy silk scarves and neckties at discount prices. Blankets of flowers in the spring and summer make the lakeshore town even more picturesque. The tourist office will help you plan a walking or cycling tour of Como, which is sure to include the Duomo, with its magnificent marble front. Inside it you’ll find architectural elements and decoration in Baroque, Romanesque, and Renaissance styles. A few hundred metres south of the city walls, behind the Viale Innocenzo XI, is the beautifully preserved 11^th C. Romanesque Basilica di Sant’Abbondio, with 14^th C. frescoes depicting scenes from the life of Christ. Another must-see is the 6^th C. Basilica di San Fedele, with three naves and three apses, a lovely 16^th C. rose window, and frescoes.

A Place to Eat

Much to be recommended is the Ristorante Sociale, next to the city’s theatre. A favourite with locals as well as visitors, its exposed brick walls are adorned with allegorical frescoes you can admire while dining, along with the curious baroque fireplace. A dish you should sample is the excellentrisottowith chicory. The average cost per person is 25-30 euros.

Come to Como! Check out our fares to Milan here!

Text:  Isabel y Luis Comunicación

Photos: Italia Agenzia Nazionale del Turismo

The province of Bolzano, also known as Alto Adige and South Tyrol, culturally half-Italian and half-Austrian, is home to one of Italy’s best known mountain ranges, the Dolomites. They make up a spectacular landscape in which valleys alternate with characteristically shaped mountains that seem to rake the sky. They also change colour with the passage of the sun, to the delight of visitors – during the day, they are white, while at dawn and dusk they take on a splendid reddish tinge. Le Corbusier himself was enthralled with their magic and called the Dolomites “the most beautiful architectural work on earth”. Protected by seven parks, they were listed as a World Heritage Site in 2009.

The Dolomites provide the perfect backdrop for doing open-air sport like skiing or climbing and are also an ideal arena for enthusiasts of nature watching or those in search of inspiration. You are most likely to find inspiration in the Messner Mountain Museum, a network ofsix museums located in unique spots in the South Tyrol.They are themed around mountaineering, rock climbing and the culture of mountain dwellers.

The figure behind such a special museum concept as this – intimately linked to nature – is the unique, exceptional Italian, Reinhold Messner. Considered one of the best climbers of all time, his track record includes scaling all fourteen eight-thousands without oxygen. In 1978, Messner and his Austrian companion Peter Habeler were the first mountaineers to conquer Everest without supplemental oxygen. This heralded the start of a long career in summiting. In 1991, Messner’s intrepidness and thirst for new experiences led him to take part in the first expedition to cross Antarctica without outside support.

He currently leads a tranquil life centred around writing and the Messner Mountain Museum, an original collection of museums made up of the following spaces:

MMM Corones. Situated on the summit of Kronplatz, the story of mountaineering unfolds here. Designed by the architect Zaha Hadid, the museum was carved out of the mountainside. All that is visible from the outside is the three-pronged observation platform on the summit, with stunning views of Mt Peitlerkofel, Mt Heiligkreuzkofel, Ortler and the South Tyrol.

MMM Firmian. Near Bolzano stands Sigmundskron Castle, home to this museum themed around the relationship between man and the mountain. It is worth visiting it if only for its views of the Alps and the Dolomites.

MMM Dolomites. Also known as the “Museum in the Clouds”, it is located in an old bunker from the First World War on the 2,181-metre-high summit of Mt Rite, between Pieve di Cadore and Cortina d’Ampezzo. The museum is devoted to rock climbing, and conceptualised as a tribute to the Dolomites and everyone who has climbed them.

MMM Juval. Located in Juval Castle, it is dedicated to the “magic of the mountain”. The interior houses an exhibition of artworks featuring a Tibetan collection and masks from the five continents. The museum can only be visited as a guided tour, while in July and August it is closed, as it is the summer residence of the Messner family.

MMM Ripa. Another castle – in this instance, Bruneck Castle – houses this museum dedicated to mountain cultures. Not for nothing is the name of this space derived from the Tibetan words ri (mountain) and pa (man).

MMM Ortles. In the village of Solda, this simple stone building is half buried underground, with pasture thatch forming the rooftop of this unusual museum. The central theme is the world of ice and the subjects of skiing, ice-climbing and expeditions to the Poles.

Now that you have the keys to some of the marvels awaiting you in the South Tyrol, all that’s left is to book your Vueling to Verona – about an hour and a half’s drive from Bolzano – and discover it for yourself.

Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Images by Messner Mountain Museum and Zaha Hadid Architects (© Inexhibit)

By Panenka www.panenka.org

As they did before with Lisbon and Milan, Panenka, a soccer magazine anyone can read, invite us to discover othercountries through their passion for the sport. This time they take us to Munich where they show us their perfect eleven, both for those places related to the football game and for those touristic places.

SPORTING ELEVEN

1 Dantestadion: Opened in 1928, was the setting for Nazi parades and today hosts two football teams.
2 Olympiastadion: Venue for some historical soccer shocks, Beckenbauer was crowned here in 74 and Van Basten in 88.
3 Olympisches Dorf: The Olympic Village in 1972 Olympic games, infamous for the murder of 11 Israeli athletes.
4 Olympia Schwimmhalle: A guy called Mark Spitz won seven gold medals in this Olympic pool. Only available to Michael Phelps.
5 Olympia Eishalle: After soccer, the most popular sport in Munich is the ice hockey: entertainment ensured.
6 Sabener Strasse: Bayern has their sports facilities in the south of the city. Here will be the next office for Pep Guardiola.
7 Neues Rathaus: Also known as City Town Hall. Bayern celebrates the titles won with the fans from here
8 Grünwalder Stadion: The old stadium of Bayern Munich until 1972 and the one for Munich from 1860 to 1965, in the heart of most fashionable district.
9 Allianz Arena: An architecture jewel opened in 2006 World Championship, its front changes color depending on who is playing.
10 Unterhaching: The club of this working class town, SpVgg, met its maximum apogee in 2000 when they go up to the Bundesliga.
11 Kurt Landauer: Next to Allianz, the former president of Bayern inmate in Dachau has a street with his name.

TOURISTIC ELEVEN

A Maximilian-Platz: A visit to this square of imperial beauty will not leave indifferent any visitor.
B Karlstor: Literally, Karl’s door, the entrance to the city heading to the Marienplatz. In winter, an ice rink.
C Frauenkirche: The stunnning two towers of 99 meters height for Munich Gothic Cathedral can be seen from anywhere in the city.
D Pinakothek der Moderne: The museum of Contemporary Art that includes works by Picasso, Magritte, Klee and Warhol.
E BMW Museum: It may be most spectacular see it from the heights, with its form of three-engine pistons, than to visit.
F Viktualienmarkt: It is the square of the supplies: a marketplace where you can buy and taste the typical products of the land.
G Residenz: Former imperial residence, it is the best vestige of courtly life Bavaria met in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries.
H Chinesischer Turm: The most renowned Munich Biergarten. Tables and benches to drink, eat and chat.
I Hofbräuhaus: Pros: beer is served continuously since 1589. Con: Nazi Party was founded by Hitler here.
J Isartor: The eastern gate of the city which is named after the river that comes from the Alps, runs through Munich and pours into the Danube.
K English Garden: 373 hectare park makes it the ‘Central Park’ of Munich. Its Chinese Tower is its main icon.

By Panenka www.panenka.org

Image: Pep Boatella / @pepboatella

Why not take a trip to Munich? Have a look at our flights here!

By Michael Schurmann from easyhiker.co       

There is no shortage of attractive hiking destinations for day trips near Munich where you are during the Oktoberfest. Both the Goldsteig and the Altmühl-Panoramaweg “top trails” are just a train ride away, and of course, there are always the Alps.
But Lake Starnberg tops the list of day trip destinations because it is by far the easiest to reach and is the scene of a titillating piece of German royalty history. (More of that if you promise to read through.)

You can go there by City Rail (the S-Bahn) in 30 minutes from Munich Central Station, and the round trip is covered by the Munich day pass which gives you unlimited access to all the city’s public transport facilities (a steal at €20 for up to five persons).

Another reason why Lake Starnberg tops that list: it won’t take you long to reach it from Starnberg station.

On a clear day, you can even see the Alps at the far end.

This far end, it must be said, is quite a long way away. Lake Starnberg is about 20 km long, and although it is quite narrow (never more than 5 km wide), the whole tour around the big pond may easily come to about 50 km.

“Road leading to Possenhofen hiking trail in Starnberger See near Munich”

For a day trip, this is clearly off the scale. But thankfully, there are plenty of alternatives.

On the right side of the lake, for example, there are two more S-Bahn stations further down the track (Possenhofen and Tutzing), so in theory, you could take the train there and walk back to Starnberg (7 km and 14 km respectively).

This was, in fact, our original plan: a walk to Possenhofen, the childhood home and favourite retreat of the star-crossed empress Sissi.

But the road to Possenhofen was so busy (even used by trucks) and so far away from the actual lake – it was practically lined with residential homes, gardens and boat houses – that we broke off our trip after app. 1 mile and returned to Starnberg.

Fortunately for us, we then discovered that the “left” (or western) side of the lake provides a much more pleasant ambiente.

A recognized hiking trail, the “König Ludwig Weg”, runs down the entire length of the lake’s west bank. That should, at the very least, ensure that you are safe from truck traffic.

No S-Bahn trains circulate down this side of the lake, but ferries take you to several of the small towns that are scattered around, including Seehausen at the lake’s southern tip.
If you have a full day, this is what you could do: Hike all the way to Seehausen and return by boat.

We only had the time for one section of this trail, however, and decided to walk the 6 km from Starnberg to the town of Berg.

Out of the station and standing in front of the lake, turn left.

The first half mile takes you past a mix of residential and recreational buildings: homes, gardens, boat houses and a public swimming pool.

After the first of two wooden bridges, however, the scenery becomes far more idyllic: swans in the lake, groups of sturdily built Bavarian women training their Nordic walking skills, young families and students skipping a boring lecture.

When you return to the asphalted road, in the outskirts of Berg, you will see some of the most expensive real estate in Germany.

Lake Starnberg, so pretty and so near to Munich, Germany’s richest city, is very much the Alpine version of the Cote d’Azur (or Beverly Hills).

After walking about 15 minutes, you will find the boat pier on your right.

“Sign leading to Koenig Ludwig Weg hiking trail in Starnberger See in Munich”Check the arrival and departure times, because the traffic back to Starnberg is infrequent and somewhat irregular, and if you miss one boat, you may have to wait a couple of hours for the next one.

If you can, make time for an excursion to the Votivkapelle (just follow the signs) another 30 minutes away.

This chapel was erected to commemorate one of the great unsolved mysteries of German history.
It stands very near the place where the mad King Louis II of Bavaria, (builder of Neuschwanstein Castle and generous supporter of Richard Wagner’s operatic works), explored Lake Starnberg in a vertical direction. (A wooden cross in the water marks the spot.)

Was it an accident? Did he commit suicide? Or was some sort of jiggery pokery involved? (For a full round-up of events, go HERE.)

On the way to the chapel, you will come across a plaque on a boat house where it says that Ludwig often set out from there to meet with his “soul mate” Sissi on the other side of the lake.

I found it strange and almost touching to see that after all these years, the Bavarians still can’t quite seem to cope with the fact that their beloved “Kini” did not fancy girls all that much.

For a less shamefaced account of the king’s life, watch Ludwig II, directed by Luchino Visconti and featuring the male model Helmut Berger as the eponymous royal, one of the campiest movies ever made: the thinking man’s Wizard of Oz.

If you do not have the time to experience Mr. Visconti’s Magnum Opus in its full Wagnerian languor of 247 minutes, do yourself a favour: sample the director’s operatic ambition here.

The latter section also features here a must-watch Bavarian-style gay orgy with folk dancing, zither music and much mutual groping.

No wonder the locals hated the film so much that they tried to have it banned when it was first released in 1972.)

Now, return to the pier where – if there is still time – you can have a coffee or a beer on the terrace of the Hotel Berg before taking the boat back to Starnberg.
If you have started your day before 12, you can still be back at your favourite Oktoberfest beer tent before the evening rush begins – and won’t miss any of the action.

Why not take a trip to Munich? Have a look at our flights here!

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