Marseille is full of surprises, or at least that’s the feeling you get when venturing into the city. This gateway to the Mediterranean has much more to offer than what is apparent at first sight. For starters, it has two harbours – the Vieux Port (Old Port), enclosed and fortified, a vestige of times when the coastline was invaded by pirates and hostile nations. And, the new – and larger – harbour which opens out to the sea and is a symbol of contemporary times. The elegant buildings lining the city’s streets have an unkempt, decadent yet inspiring air, while the fishing quarters smack of new trends in the guise of art galleries and cafés, and avant-garde spaces such as the MuCEM (Museum for the Civilisations of Europe and the Mediterranean) and the Villa Méditerranée, attesting to Marseille being much more than just a port city. And, in the midst of all this stands the highlight of this article, one of the works which prompts many architects to pilgrimage to Marseille –Le Corbusier’s Cité Radieuse.

This huge building, recently designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, together with 16 other architectural works by Le Corbusier, is one of the essential icons of modern architecture and one of the artificer’s major achievements. In this massive and equally beautiful colossus in concrete, the precursor of Brutalist art and ideologue behind architecture as we know it today successfully shaped the vertical city he had dreamed of, which he named the Unité d’habitation (Housing Unity). This was the first in a succession of similar residential buildings which were subsequently erected in Nantes-Rezé (1955), Berlin-Westend (1957), Briey (1963) and Firminy (1965).

Cité Radieuse, known locally as La Maison du Fada (The Nutter's House), is a large apartment block located in the south of Marseille on the Boulevard Michelet. It was designed in 1945 and built from 1947 to 1952. It is made up of 337 duplex apartments distributed over twelve storeys. Apart from its residential function, Le Corbusier also incorporated amenities into the design, including a commercial area on the seventh and eighth floors, gardens, a paddling pool, a gym, a theatre and a nursery on the spectacular rooftop. The edifice was built in rough-cast concrete and its standout feature are the supporting pilotis or piers, as well as the polychromed decoration on the balconies which set up a rhythm across the facade.

Most of the apartments are now private property, although sightseers are allowed to visit the common areas of the building. On the seventh and eighth floors you can see how most of the commercial units have been turned into design and architects studios. An exception to this is La Ventre de l’Architecte, a luxury restaurant affording splendid views of Marseille and the coast. The crowning touch is provided by another communal area, the rooftop, an area of surprises where architectural forms have been turned into spectacular sculptures affording views over the city. A pilot apartment can be visited as part of a guided tour, but be sure to book in advance with the Marseille Tourist Office. Those who would like to broaden their experience of the Cité Radieuse can stay overnight at the Hotel Le Corbusier, housed in the building itself.

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Text and photos by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

If you travel to Trieste, don’t fail to visit its historical cafés. Part of their patina is due to their connection with literary figures – writers such as Svevo, Saba, Stendhal and Joyce frequented these establishments in search of conversation, inspiration and rest.

While these cafés enjoyed their moment of splendour in the late-19th and early-20th century, they have endured to the present, albeit with some changes, transporting their customers back to a bygone age. Visitors can admire their wooden furnishings, framed in tall architectural devices, the classic marble tables and an atmosphere redolent with the aroma of coffee.

Here are some of the standout historical cafés of Trieste:

Caffè Tommaseo (Piazza Tommaseo, 4/c)

Opened in 1830 by the Paduan, Tommaso Marcato, this is Trieste’s oldest café. It was decorated by the painter, Gatteri, who among other things commissioned the mirrors to be brought from Belgium. It was once a meeting place of merchants and writers and the first establishment in the city to serve ice-cream. It also used to host art exhibitions and concerts, a tradition still kept alive on its premises.

Caffè degli Specchi (Piazza Unità d’Italia, 7)

Founded in 1839 by the Greek, Nicolò Priovolo, it is located in one of the most privileged spots in Trieste, the Piazza Unità d’Italia, on the ground floor of the Stratti building. When you get to this café, you are hard put to decide where to sit – the interior is still tinged with the charm of its glorious past, while the terrace affords lovely views of the square and the sea. Curiously, during World War II it was used to garrison troops, and also as a warehouse and even a stable.

Caffè Tergesteo (Piazza della Borsa, 15)

Housed in the shopping arcade of the Tergesteo Palace, the former seat of Trieste’s stock exchange, it is famed for its stained-glass windows depicting scenes from the city’s history. It was once frequented during the day by businessmen who attended the stock exchange, and by night by the cultural elite.

Caffè San Marco (Via Battisti, 18)

The early years of this café were troubled ones. Having opened in 1914, the following year it was closed down and destroyed by Austro-Hungarian troops for having been the meeting place for the irredentists. It was rebuilt in the twenties, when its regular clientele featured such literary figures as Saba, Svevo and Giotti. It is now a café, cultural centre and library and still breathes the atmosphere of another age.

Caffè Torinese (Corso Italia, 2)

The first thing that strikes one when entering this bar, opened in 1915, is its Art Nouveau decoration, the work of the Trieste cabinet-maker, Debelli. Another stunning feature is the spectacular crystal chandelier that lights its comfortable interior. The current owners have managed to endow the locale with a cool, modern air in the guise of its cocktails and its wine list, which includes local wines.

How to Order a Coffee in Trieste

While this might sound outlandish, Trieste has its own names for different types of coffee and you should bear this in mind unless you want to end up gawking at the waiter who has just served up your order. An expresso is called a nero, while a capuccino is known as caffè latte. If you want a macchiato, you have to ask for a capo (capuccino) and, if you’d like your coffee served in a glass, you should specify “in a b”, as “b” is the abbreviation for glass (bicchiere) in Italian.

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Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación

Photos by dani7c3, Caffè Tommaseo, Caffè Torinese, Caffè degli Specchi

Exploring the popular Triana district is a great opportunity to immerse yourself in the atmosphere and daily life of this part of Seville, amid the character of its people, its streets, the communal patios, the dance academies, pottery workshops and most iconic buildings.

At the same time, you will be surprised by the most famous stories and legends about the district; especially those related to the time of the Spanish Inquisition. A district full of art and charm, or as the people of Seville say: full of magic. The inhabitants of Triana, have a strong sense of identity. For them, Triana is more than just a district – it is a town with its own personality. Despite the modern buildings that continue to pop up all over the place, Triana has managed to preserve an old feel to it: low houses, geranium-laden balconies and patios. The Parroquia de Santa Ana, a Gothic brick-built temple known as the Catedral Chica is the heart of Triana, but the essence of the district is to be found in its streets, its squares and its inhabitants. Triana is still a district of ever-bustling streets, bars and taverns in which to enjoy tapas and offers dynamic and traditional shopping opportunities with old-fashioned shops. Triana is one of the birthplaces of Flamenco. Numerous Flamenco artists have been born here and there is a distinct Triana way of singing, dancing and playing. The Flamenco atmosphere lives on in the ‘peñas’ and ‘tablaos’ of the Triana district of Seville.

Image:Frobles

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The Church of the Saviour on Spilled Blood, or the Cathedral of the Resurrection of Christ, was commissioned by Tsar Alexander III between 1883 and 1907 on the exact spot where his father, Tsar Alexander II, was fatally wounded.

Located next to the Griboedov Canal and visible from Nevski Prospekt, the building was constructed according to the traditional Russian style and inspired by Saint Basil’s Cathedral in Moscow. It therefore stands as one of the most striking Baroque and Neoclassical buildings to be found in Saint Petersburg. The structure includes three semi-circular apses and is crowned by five domes. It is one of the churches housing the largest number of mosaics in Europe, which bring together both Byzantine and Art-Nouveau styles.

In the past, the church was only available for private use but was opened to the public following the revolution. The building was used for various purposes throughout the communist era and eventually fell into complete disrepair. In 1970, responsibility was passed to Saint Isaac’s Cathedral and a series of restoration projects began that were to last for 27 years.

It is currently open as a museum and entry costs 250 roubles (350 if you visit during the White Nights Festival). We recommend that you rent an audio guide (200 roubles) so as not to miss any of the interior details or alternatively join one of the guided tours offered on the website of Saint Isaac’s Cathedral.

By Isabel Romano from DiariodeaBordo

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