Avignon is Culture, Its Bridge Notwithstanding
No bridge seems to be as famous as the one in Avignon, the central theme of one of the best known children’s songs in France. Indeed, it has been sung in virtually all languages – local guides can even sing it in Japanese – so it comes as no surprise that anyone arriving at the battered Pont Saint-Bénézet is likely to sing the song or even dance it. This structure, twice destroyed by flooding along the Rhone, has become an icon of this Provençal city and its ambassador par excellence, earning it universal fame.
Apart from its bridge, Avignon, which is just an hour’s drive from Marseille, is a historic city, having once been the capital of Christendom and the centrepiece in one of the major schisms in the Catholic Church. Dating from that period is the formidable Papal Palace, the largest known Gothic palace. In the 14th century it witnessed a cultural and economic Renaissance that saw the arrival of bankers, artists and writers from all over Europe in a quest to be near the papal orbit – Petrarch was one of them.
But, it was not until five centuries later that Avignon again became a beacon of intellectual activity. 1947 saw the birth of the Avignon Festival, France’s longest-standing and most celebrated event devoted to theatre and the scenic arts and one of the most firmly rooted festivals in Europe. This year it runs into its 70th edition and will be held from 6 to 24 July at more than 30 venues.
A turning point in the Festival’s schedule of events came in the year 2000 when Avignon was designated the European Capital of Culture. Then ensued a cultural revival in this, the major population centre in the department of Vaucluse – set in the new region of Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur – as attested by the opening of the Lambert Collection – Museum of Contemporary Art, set up in 2000 around a historic endowment by the merchant and collector, Yvon Lambert. The endowment is admirable and comprehensive and features permanent exhibitions showcasing the work of Jean-Michel Basquiat, Sol LeWitt, Douglas Gordon and the ever-controversial photographer, Andrés Serrano, among other artists, as well as numerous temporary exhibitions.
Avignon has ten museums in all, prominent among them being the Musée du Petit Palais, with a large collection of medieval painting, the Calvet Museum, the Musée Angladon, dedicated to Impressionism, and the Musée Louis-Vouland, which specialises in the decorative arts. There is also an opera theatre, an exhibition park and some unique facilities like La FabricA, a theatre factory where various companies rehearse their performances in the run-up to the Avignon Festival.
Art is also present in Les Halles Market, endowed with a stunning vertical garden created by the artist, Patrick Blanc. This market is the ideal spot for buying fresh produce and Provençal specialities at one of their forty plus stores.
It would be amiss to end this article without recommending some of the venues for eating the tastiest food in Avignon. One is Maison de Fogasses, a splendid town palace which offers an exquisite menu of the day for around 20 euros based on locally sourced products. Another is LE 46 which specialises in French cuisine with Mediterranean flourishes.
Avignon is the perfect destination for a getaway from Marseille. Check out your flights to Marseille here.
Text by Tus Destinos
Images by Tus Destinos, Avignon-Tourisme (C.Rodde)
more infoThe Modernist Face of Valencia
Valencia is not all Calatrava and paella, just as Barcelona does not account for all of Spain’s Modernist buildings – well, someone had to say it! Clichés aside, if there is anything the first-time visitor to Valencia is likely to be amazed at it is the sheer quantity and quality of its Modernist heritage. It hits you as you wander down its streets, particularly in the historic centre and the Ensanche.
Valencia saw marked urban development in the late-19th century, the upshot of its economic boom at the time. The city grew beyond its old walled precinct, giving rise to an overspill known as the Ensanche. The expansion coincided with one of the burgeoning art movements of the moment, one that would become all the rage among Europe’s middle classes. The movement became known as Modernism, elsewhere dubbed Art Nouveau, Modern Style, Jugendstil, Liberty or Floreale, depending on the country. Not to be outdone, the Valencian middle classes became enthralled by this new style, which a marked a break with the prevailing academic tradition. Its artificers were inspired by nature and experimented with new applications of iron and glass in architecture.
Valencian Modernism is characterised by the use of glazed ceramics on facades and in interiors, which usually feature motifs associated with the region, notably oranges and orange blossom. Among the standout buildings, which you should make a point of visiting on your itinerary of Valencia’s Modernist heritage, are the following:
- Mercat Central. Built in 1914 and designed by Francesc Guàrdia i Vial and Alexandre Soler, both of whom trained at the Barcelona School of Architecture, this is one of the city’s major tourist attractions and it’s not for nothing. The interior metallic structure is painted white, making the colours of wares sold in the stalls stand out all the more. Further, visitors are met by the striking, spectacular central dome, which floods the interior with light. Both the stunning architecture and the congenial atmosphere in the market make this a must-visit for all sightseers in the city.
- Mercado de Colón. Inaugurated in 1916 and designed by Francisco Mora Berenguer, it was commissioned to provide services for the Ensanche district. Prominent is the ornamented brick facade, decorated with a host of ceramic figures – it couldn’t be otherwise! Restored in 2003, the interior now houses various shops, cafés and bars.
- Estación del Norte. Passengers arriving in Valencia by train are rewarded with the sight of this marvellous station. Opened in 1917, it boasts some beautiful areas, notably the vestibule, decorated in wood, glazed ceramics and marble.
- Casa Ordeig. Located next to the Mercat Central, it was designed by Francisco de Mora i Berenguer. He drew inspiration from the Lonja de la Seda (Silk Exchange), which accounts for the Neo-Gothic motifs on the facade.
- Edificio Suay. This grand edifice with its white facade is located on the corner of Calle Correos and the Plaza del Ayuntamiento. It was designed by the same architect as the Casa Ordeig.
- Edificio de los Dragones. Located on the corner of Calle Sorni and Calle Jorge Juan, it was designed by José María Manuel Cortina Pérez and built in 1901. Its Neo-Gothic-inspired decoration is striking and features a profusion of mythical animals, particularly dragons – hence its name.
Apart from the aforementioned landmarks, we recommend you take a stroll along Calle de la Paz, where you will come across numerous Modernist buildings, including the Edificio Camaña Laymon, Edificio Sancho, Casa Gray, and Casa Sagnier I and II.
Ready to discover one of Valencia’s most alluring and evocative architectural facets? Book your flight here.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by Jocelyn Kinghorn, Marja van Bochove, Carquinyol, Pleuntje, Paul Thompson
more info
Discover Tarragona and Its Hinterland
Situated just under an hour and a half from Barcelona lies the city of Tarragona, its Roman and medieval past providing visitors with an amazing wealth of history and art. However, this cultural journey goes beyond the city limits – inland we find the three gems of the Cistercian route, as well as the landscapes that inspired such artists as Antoni Gaudí and Joan Miró. What more could you ask for?
Itinerary 1: the Roman Legacy
Tarraco – Roman Tarragona
What was once the capital of the province of Hispania Tarraconensis still preserves numerous vestiges of that splendid past. Designated a World Heritage Site in 2000, travellers to the city will be dazzled by the Roman wall, the provincial forum, the circus, amphitheatre and a host of remains awaiting them on their walks through ancient Tarraco. You can join a guided tour at Auriga Serveis Culturals so as not to miss any details of that legacy.
Roman Villa of Centcelles
Just six kilometres from Tarragona, in Constantí, lies the Roman villa of Centcelles, a landmark monument of palaeo-Christian art. One of the highlights of that site is the dome ornamented with a Christian-themed mosaic, one of the oldest surviving examples from the Roman world.
Roman Villa of Els Munts
Located in Altafulla, 12 kilometres from Tarragona, is the villa of Els Munts. It was apparently used for agricultural purposes and still displays constructions featuring richly decorated elements.
Itinerary 2: a Splendid Medieval Past
Jewels of the Cistercian Route
The three jewels that make up this magnificent route through Cistercian monasteries are the Monastery of Santes Creus, with its stunning chapterhouse and Gothic cloister, the Monastery of Vallbona, a 12th-century nunnery boasting a monumental church and cloister and – the most popular of all – the Monastery of Poblet, a UNESCO World Heritage Site with its magnificent cloister and royal pantheon where King James I the Conqueror is buried, among others.
Montblanc – Medieval Spirit
Montblanc is one of the paramount medieval complexes in Catalonia, thanks to its excellent state of preservation. Make a point of exploring it and wandering through its streets, where you are sure to be transported to medieval times. Or, if you prefer, you can sign up for one of the routes organised by the Town Council, featuring options to suit all tastes.
Siurana – the Stuff of Legend
This village in the Priorat, which seems to have leaped out of some novel, was one of the last Moorish enclaves in Catalonia which managed to hold out and check the Christian advance. Turismo de Siurana offers dramatised guided tours highlighting stories, tales and legends about the area.
Discover the First Charterhouse on the Iberian Peninsula
Built in the 12th century in the Priorat county, the Carthusian Monastery of Escaladei is regarded as the earliest Carthusian monastery to emerge on the Iberian Peninsula. Those parts of the charterhouse currently open to the public include the three cloisters, church, refectory and a monk’s cell which has been reconstructed down to the last detail.
Itinerary 3: In the Footsteps of Miró and Gaudí
Mont-roig – Source of Inspiration for Joan Miró
Joan Miró first visited Mont-roig del Camp in 1911, when he was 18 years old. The landscape made such an impact on him that it became his habitual place of pilgrimage, a town he would return to time and again in search of peace and inspiration. Well worth visiting is the Centre Miró where you can acquire greater insight into the relationship between the artistic genius and the town and its surroundings.
Searching For the Origins of Gaudí
Just 18 kilometres from Tarragona lies the small town of Riudoms, site of the house where Antoni Gaudí was born. Open to the public, it reveals the origins of this unique artist and the environment which was to influence his work. Interesting, isn’t it?
Text by Agencia Catalana de Turismo
more info
The Monumental Cemetery of Staglieno
The magnificent sea port of Genoa, situated in the north of Italy, is the perfect spot for a two-day getaway. There you can discover the jewels yielded by the sediment of numerous stories that took place in that city over the years.
The old harbour is undoubtedly Genoa’s major attraction. To mark the 500th anniversary of the discovery of America – one of the city’s most celebrated citizens was Christopher Columbus – the harbour was renovated, a make-over that was long overdue. The result of that restoration includes the Bigo, a futuristic structure designed by Renzo Piano affording interesting views over the city, in addition to the Aquarium, the Biosphere and the Galata Sea Museum, one of the largest marine exhibitions in Europe.
But, apart from its harbour, the capital of Liguria offers many other enticements, such as strolling through the Old Town and wandering around the caruggi or dark, narrow back streets. Also worth visiting are the Palazzi dei Rolli, a system of 16th- and 17th-century Renaissance and Baroque palaces, forty-two of which are listed as World Heritage Sites by UNESCO. Not to be missed either are Genoa Cathedral, dedicated to St Lawrence, and the spectacular Piazza de Ferrari. For those eager to delve into Italy’s history, the place to head for is the Museo del Risorgimento, housed in the erstwhile residence of Giuseppe Mazzini, a key figure in the unification of the country.
The Monumental Cemetery of Staglieno
Apart from these monuments and landmarks, which you are sure to come across in the course of any tourist itinerary through the city, Genoa has another unusual attraction well worth visiting, the Monumental Cemetery of Staglieno. Located on the outskirts of Genoa, on a hillside next to the Bisagno Valley in the Staglieno district, lies one of Europe’s largest cemeteries, celebrated for its interesting sculptural and architectural ensembles on tombs and pantheons.
The construction of cemeteries on the outskirts of towns got under way after the 1804 Napoleonic Edict of Saint-Cloud, by which burials in churches or within city walls were banned. In the case of Genoa, Carlo Barabino was tasked with designing the city’s new cemetery in 1835. Construction work began in 1844 and the precinct was inaugurated in 1851, although building continued until 1880. The precinct was extended over time and areas dedicated to other religions were added, notably the Jewish, Orthodox, Protestant and English cemeteries – the latter houses the tomb of Oscar Wilde’s wife, Constance Lloyd.
Its origins coincide with the rise of a markedly affluent bourgeoisie, intent on extolling their merits for posterity, to which end they commissioned artists to adorn their opulent mausoleums. These artists included such sculptors as Leonardo Bistolfi, Augusto Rivalta, Giulio Monteverde and Edoardo Alfieri.
A walk through this graveyard effectively becomes a tour of the different art styles that emerged in the 19th and 20th century, as visitors are regaled with works of Neoclassicism, Symbolism, Liberty and Art Deco. This is augmented by the presence of nature, in the guise of plant growth interspersed among the various architectural features, making for an unsettling yet inspiring experience.
Many a visitor has succumbed to the charms of this monumental cemetery. Friedrich Nietzsche and Paul Rée used to discuss philosophy as they strolled through it, while Hemingway described it as “One of the wonders of the world”. Peter Saville, for his part, used photos by Bernard Pierre Wolff of some of the sculptures in the cemetery when he designed the Joy Division album covers for Love Will Tear Us Apart and Closer.
Book your Vueling to this fantastic Mediterranean city – discover its old harbour, stroll through itscaruggi,soak up the beauty of its palaces and drop in on this very special cemetery.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by jeff kerwin, Enrico Sirola, Superchilum
more info