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Quest For the Best Bubbles in the Penedès

Half an hour south of Barcelona lies the Penedès DO wine region, primarily noted for being a leading producing centre of cava, one of Spain’s most celebrated sparkling wines. A mainstay of all major celebrations in the country, the origins of this “Catalan champagne” go back to the mid-19th century. French champagne arrived in the area around 1820 and a certain Luis Justo Villanueva of the Instituto Agrícola Catalán de San Isidro was one of the first vintners to try out and advocate the traditional champenoise method required to produce this innovative product. However, it was the Reus-based firm Soberano & Cía, run by Domènec Soberano i Mestres and Francesc Gil i Borràs, that first marketed the product, presenting it at the Paris World Fair of 1868.

Initially, the same grape variety was used as in champagne, but, owing to the phylloxera epidemic of 1887 which ravaged the local vines, the use of indigenous grape varieties was introduced, endowing the cava we know today with its distinctive personality. The main varieties are macabeo, parellada and xarel·lo.

It was originally known as champagne but, as a result of French champagne being awarded “protected geographical status” in 1972, the Catalan variety began to be called cava, named after the cellars (cavas) where the wine reposes during its production.

Well, what’s in it for anyone wishing to set out in search of those delicious bubbles? For starters, there is the product itself, a worthy equal to its French counterpart in terms of quality. And, those who are not particularly fond of sparkling beverages can always embark on tasting sessions of the region’s other wines, which deserve a section of their own. Then there is the scenery, characterised by vineyards stretching across the land and the proximity of the Mediterranean, in addition to the villages where the wine cellars are located. And, if you’re eager for still more, you can explore the region’s culinary offerings and the enotourism activities hosted there, noteworthy being the Wine and Cava Routes, a set of ten trails taking you through the different vineyards. What more could you ask for?

The town of Sant Sandurní d’Anoia is regarded as the “cava capital” of the DO Penedès wine region as 75% of the area’s production is concentrated here. It is thus a fitting point of departure for embarking on any route associated with this fine sparkling wine. You could make an initial stop at the Cava Interpretation Centre, a 1,200-square-metre space where you can learn about cava production, as well as its history, origins and other details.

Before or after visiting some of the wine cellars, we recommend taking a stroll in the town centre as a number of interesting Modernist buildings are located there. Noteworthy examples of such Art Nouveau edifices include the Lluís Mestres House, Cal Rigol, the Escoles Noves building and the headquarters of the Ateneu Agrícola.

Then comes the time for venturing into some of the myriad wineries in the town. Among the most popular is Cava Codorniu, which dates back to 1872. Apart from its cava, one of its standout features is the building itself, designed by the Modernist architect, Puig i Cadafalch. A curiosity you will discover on a visit to this winery are its 26 kilometres of underground cellars. The other great winery, of international fame, is Cava Freixenet, which first opened in 1861. The building, in Noucentista style with Modernist touches, is one of the leading works of the architect, Josep Ros Ros.

The following list features all the wineries and cavas making up the DO Penedès, showing their location and contact details, to help you plan a trip through the region and visit your favourites.

Make a point of striking a trail through the DO Penedès in search of its main cavas and wineries – book your Vueling to Barcelona here.

Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Images by Angela Llop, MARIA ROSA FERRE

 

 

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Eight Bookshops To Enjoy During the Sant Jordi Book Fair

If we had to choose the ideal day for visiting Barcelona and seeing it in all its finery, that date would undoubtedly be 23 April. The celebration of the Catalan “Diada de Sant Jordi” (Feast of St George) sees Barcelona festooned with books and roses, and thousands of people crowding the streets in search of new book releases or their favourite author to autograph a copy of their purchase. Roses are also in evidence everywhere, particularly red ones, which all young men are duty bound to gift to their beloved. The ritual is re-enacted year after year and draws numerous booksellers to the city. Following is a list of the main bookshops in Barcelona which you are encouraged to visit on the Feast of St George or, to avoid the crush, any time you happen to be book hunting in Barcelona.

1. Laie
A true beacon of Barcelona’s literary scene and a must-visit destination for any reading enthusiast is Libreria Laie, specialising in art, literature and the humanities. This well managed bookstore also features a café-restaurant on the upper floor, the perfect spot for chatting about the latest literary releases.

2. La Central del Raval
Located in the heart of El Raval quarter, and housed in the former Chapel of Misericordia, is Central del Raval, a classic in the city’s literary scene, boasting some 80,000 titles. Featuring books on anthropology, architecture, design, art, cinema and photography, as well as poetry and the performing arts, among others. Also on the premises is an area devoted to literary activities.

3. Altaïr
Planning to travel anytime soon? Make a point of visiting Librería Altaïr to research your trip beforehand, as there you will find all the books you need to prepare your getaway. They specialise in travel, and as such are one of the largest bookshops in Europe, stocking travel guides, maps and books relating to all possible destinations imaginable.

4. Taifa
Located on the Calle Verdi, in the heart of Gràcia, is the bookstore Librería Taifa. Founded in 1993 by the poet, publisher and literary critic, José Batlló, they stock both new and secondhand books. While specialising in the humanities, the store is noted for its section on cinema, which the proprietors hold in great esteem.

5. Hibernian Books
Also located in the Gràcia  district is Hiberian Books, which is celebrated for being the only store in Barcelona specialising in secondhand books in English. Their list runs into some 40,000 titles, covering all possible genres, including a section featuring children’s books.

6. Loring Art
Loring Art
are specialists in contemporary visual culture. The store started out in 1996 with just a hundred titles, while nowadays it has some 20,000, a treat for connoisseurs of this genre. Their offerings provide a journey through 20th- and 21st-century painting, sculpture, design, fashion, photography, architecture, cinema, music, the performing arts and electronic art.

7. Casa Anita
This unique bookshop located in the Gràcia district is dedicated to illustrated books. While targeting primarily children and young readers, their titles are a delight for children and adults alike.

8. Arkham Comics
This small bookshop in El Raval specialises in comics. Although it can be challenging to jostle your way among so many volumes, this is the perfect place for devotees of graphic novels, who are urged to take the advice of Xavi, the ever-helpful owner.

Book your Vueling to Barcelona and delve into the city’s literary world, as well as revelling in one of the city’s most becoming festivities.

Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

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De cervezas artesanas por Barcelona

La Cervesera Artesana
The name (meaning “Craft Beer House”) may seem rather obvious, but they wear it proudly as this beer house was one of the first brewpubs in town to sport the “craft” label. Through glass panes you can see how they make seven types of Iberian beer, the brand adopted by the first microbrewery in Barcelona, dating from 1993. Their drinks are served on the premises and range from a stout to an acclaimed spicy beer. They went to Facebook to ask their customers which new variety they should bring out and the winning suggestion was a chilli beer. They’re working on it. They offer many others, too. The brewery, in the lower part of Gràcia, always has an upbeat atmosphere.

Homo Sibaris
Guillem Laporta is one of the beer activists with the most pedigree in Barcelona and his beer house, Homo Sibaris, is proof of the knowledge he has acquired. It is also one of the city’s most inviting beer cellars. Located in the picturesque Plaza Osca in the Sants district, its battery of handpumps has recently been augmented to fourteen. The brews that emerge from their spouts are made by Guillem himself (he has just crafted a bitter which is going to be the talk of the town!), in addition to other hard-to-find craft beers from around the world. Take a seat at one of their tables, or on the terrace, browse through the menu you will be handed, ask the staff and let them guide you. They always get it right.

Biercab
When Manuel Baltasar was deciding what type of beer house to open with his friends, he realised that good company was an essential element. Good company in the project – his partners include a beer distributor, a craft brewery in Navarre (Naparbier) and a master brewer from Belgium, Sven Bosch. And good company at the tables in his brewpub, located in the middle of the Eixample district. The tapas menu at BierCab is designed to pair well with their beers.Chef Ronald García prepares the dishes, notably ceviche de corvina (sea bass lemon-and-garlic marinade) with tiger’s milk, and sea bass sashimi with yellow ají sauce. Even non-beer drinkers ought to taste them, although stepping into BierCab without trying a single beer would be riotous. They have over 600 varieties, many of them Catalan, bearing in mind that these climes are now gripped with beer fever. “The best thing here is that everyone can find their own beer style”, Manuel promises.

Blacklab & Kitchen
Jing Cheng and Matt Bader met while studying architecture in Chicago and, after graduating, settled in Barcelona. A few years later, they turned their passion into a profession, setting up a brewhouse in the Palau de Mar, in the Barceloneta. Everything there is reminiscent of what they loved about the USA – the natural beers that Matt makes, the kitchen – they serve up hamburgers, sandwiches and soups, but tend to recommend the chicken wings and pulled pork buns – and even the gigs held on Saturday evening. Customers eat and drink among tanks where the house beers are fermented. They come in a thousand different styles and always feature some new creation.

Abirradero
Craft brewers inevitably treat their profession as a vocation, and they emerge relatively late in life at that. The triumvirate at Abirradero, in Poble-sec, bear this out, as it is made up of Nereo Garbi, a former publisher, Daniel Fermún, an IT technician, and Ivò Castells, a telecoms graduate. Half of the beers they list are their own creation, some in rather bizarre styles. With the assistance of journalist Sergi Bayó, they have even adapted the periodic table of elements to beer, to help newcomers discover the infinite diversity of this world. Accompanied by tapas designed to pair well with the beverage, a dinner at Abirradero will reveal the endless culinary possibilities of beer.

Book your Vueling to Barcelona and gear up to savour the finest craft beers in town.

Text by Josep Sucarrats of Gastronomistas

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5 Tips for Enjoying Las Fallas to the Full

From the last Sunday in February to 19 March – the feast of St Joseph – Valencia is gripped by its most acclaimed and unique fiesta, Las Fallas (Falles,in Valencian). This year’s edition is one of the first festivities to be celebrated in the city after Las Fallas was designated a World Heritage event by UNESCO on 30 November last year. Here, then, are some pointers to getting the most out of the fiesta.

1. The Origins

Las Fallas pay tribute to St Joseph, the patron saint of carpenters. Popular belief has it that the Fallas originated in the carpenters’ guild where, each year on the eve of St Joseph, they would clean out their workshops and burn the leftover junk in bonfires in an act of purification to mark the arrival of spring. Over the years, those scraps of furniture were remodelled into the now famous dummies known as ninots.

2. It’s Really About “Ninots”

These human effigies echo current affairs by parodying the most controversial public figures of the moment, mostly lampooning them in a spirit of pungent irony. They are the true protagonists of Las Fallas. All the ninots compete to be saved from the flames. The weeks in the run-up to the fiesta, they are collectively put on public display, before being devoured by the flames. Well, all of them except one which, for its originality or painstaking manufacture, will be spared from the fire. Which one will be spared the ordeal this time around?

3. The Crowning Events

The falleras (festival queens) and the firework displays are further ingredients in this celebration, endowing it with a character of its own. The crida or “call” marks the start of the festivity which, as mentioned earlier, takes place on the last Sunday in February. The thunderous mascletàs, the despertà, a firecracker “awakening” marking the start of the day, and the ongoing pyrotechnic displays provide the sound, light and colour which become a constant feature throughout the celebrations, culminating in the cremà, the mass bonfire where theninotsare burned.

4. Culinary Traditions

A must-taste culinary speciality of this fiesta are the buñuelos or fritters – packed with energy, they will help you withstand the riotous goings-on. Whether plain or puff fritters, chocolate ones or those with pumpkin or sweet potato, you should make a point of savouring this delicacy. You can plan your bites at the numerous street stalls around the city, or opt to head for the classical venues where this speciality is served, like the Horchatería Santa Catalina, located in the heart of the old town, the Horchatería El Collado or L’Orxateria del Mercat Central.

Seeing you’re in Valencia, the land of master paella makers, you won’t be surprised to learn that this culinary marvel abounds among the fiesta dishes. Don’t hesitate to join the crowds around the various open-air, mass paellas simmering away.

5. Beyond the Fiesta

Take advantage of your stay in Valencia to tour its historic centre and soak up such gems as Valencia Cathedral, La Lonja de la Seda (Silk Exchange), in elegant, civil-Gothic style, the Central Market, a fine example of pre-Modernist architecture, the city’s magnificent palaces and its medieval gates.

You should also make a point of visiting the Ciudad de las Artes y las Ciencias (City of Art and Science), where you are bound to be amazed by the futuristic buildings, designed by architect Santiago Calatrava.

Be sure to book your Vueling to Valencia to experience first-hand one of the city’s most important and exciting celebrations.

Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Images by keith ellwood

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