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Chaouen A Walk Through the Blue City

The city of Chaouen is located in the north-east of Morocco, some 60 kilometres from Tetouan. Its narrow streets and whitewashed houses, most of them in blue and white, are strangely reminiscent of the villages in the Alpujarra mountains of Granada. This comes as no surprise if you consider that centuries ago this area in the Rif mountains was settled by a large number of exiles from al-Andalus. Here, especially, what was originally a Berber settlement was transformed in 1471 into a town where Muslims and Jews expelled from the Iberian Peninsula by the Catholic Kings sought refuge. This accounts for the city’s unique ties to the Andalusian towns which they hailed from, where they derived the centuries-old customs they brought to this land.

One of the main reasons why a trip to this mountainous area is really worthwhile is that Chaouen (known variously as Chefchaouen, Chaouen or Xauen) appears to be frozen in time. It has hardly evolved at all over the centuries as it was considered a holy city. This is also why it was off limits to foreigners. Hence, when you first arrive and start wandering along its narrow streets, where it is rather difficult to get your bearings, you are suddenly gripped by the feeling of having stepped back into the Middle Ages. To compound this impression, in the Old Town the only way of getting around is on donkey back, which heightens the feeling of being a time traveller.

One of the major draws in Chaouen is the Medina or Old Town with its white-and-blue houses, a striking sight for visitors, who find them difficult to resist photographing. The main square, Place Outa el-Hammam, is the nerve centre of the Medina. It is the ideal spot for sipping a cup of tea while soaking up the atmosphere, or for tasting the local cuisine served in restaurants in the surrounding area. Also in the square stands the Kasbah, a fortress built in the 15th century, the interior of which can be visited, and the Great Mosque, its standout feature being its original, octagonal-shaped minaret. Near the square is the old caravanserai, where merchants used to stop over and sell their wares. Currently it hosts numerous local artisans who engage in their crafts and here you can pick up some picturesque homemade souvenirs.

Unlike in other Moroccan towns, in Chaouen it is easy to move around the old medina without being hassled by hawkers, which makes a visit even more pleasurable and relaxing. So, shopping enthusiasts, be sure to head for the souk, which runs from the archway marking the entrance to the medina as far as Outa el-Hammam Square. Get ready to go on a great shopping spree, with haggling included, of course.

A good panoramic view of the city can be had from Bab Onsar gate, in the north-east. Here you will also come across the fountain known as Ras el Maa, with a waterfall and a public washhouse which is still in use, as women come here every day to wash clothes by hand. A road leads from here to the Jemaa Bouzafar mosque, which is a 30-minute walk. The experience is well worth the effort.

Fire up and explore this jewel of northern Morocco situated 115 kilometres from Tangier – book your Vueling here.

Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Images by subherwal

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The charms of Fez

Fez, also known as the mazy city of Morocco is one of the country’s most ancient and best-preserved cities, conserving its authenticity and exoticism with a an architecture that has remained practically untouched for centuries. What is perhaps most striking in this North African city is the fact that its less touristy and crowded, especially if you compare it to its neighbour, Marrakech. For this reason, it has a special charm that allows oneself to submerge into the culture of the citizens, without feeling suffocated by the sellers and merchants that often bother travellers in other Moroccan cities.

Certainly, we will not get to know Fez at its best if we don’t visit the following locations:

1.- Medina Fes el-Bali

The highlight of our trip to Fez is precisely in the maze that is made up by more than a hundred districts ofFes el-Bali, that are full of narrow streets with thousands of turning points and dead ends. UNESCO has protected it since 1967, as it is considered the oldest part of the city, which concentrates some of the most important monuments.

In the past, according to the law, each district was obliged to have a mosque, a religious school, a bakery, fountain and hammam. The Mausoleum of Moulay Idris and the Al Karaouine, together with the Koranic schools Attarine and Bou Inania boast an exquisite architecture that deserves to be seen. The latter, Bou Inania can be visited by non-Muslims, with an exception of the prayer rooms.

Getting lost in the markets and streetsm Talaa Kebira and Talaa Seguira, walking through the beautiful squares Nejarine and Seffarine and learning about the souk tanners are some of the most essential and authentic experiences one can have in Fez. Those wanting to learn about Morroccan cuisine are able to do so at the Riad Tafialet, whose chef Lahcem Beqqi is one of the country’s most respected. In addition to the cooking lessons, the chef will also take you to the market to show you where to buy the best products. After this session, you will be able to prepare an exotic meal at home, including dishes like harira, tagine or couscous.
2.- Medina Fes el-Jdid

The Medina Fes el- Jdid or New Medina was raised by the Merindia dynasty in the twelfth century, outside the old town. It is full of mansions with Andalusian patios, gardens, mosques and new souks, but mostly what makes it interesting is the swanky Royal Palace of golden gates, every so often cleaned with a curious mixture of lemon juice, salt and vinegar. The Mellah or Jewish quarter, which stands in the heart of Fes el- Jdid, close to the palace also offers a large market thanks to the Grand Rue, Boulevard Bou Ksissat, contrasting with the of the facades and balconies of traditional Muslim architecture, where privacy reigns.

3.- La Ville Nouvelle

In order to complete our tour of Fez, we must not forget to visit the Ville Nouvelle, the newest part of the city that was built following the French protectionism during the twentieth century. Most urbanites enjoy this area reserved for the more affluent locals, with their walk through the Avenue Hassan II and the Boulevard Mohammed V. There’s an entire collection of glamorous bars with terraces, restaurants, ice cream parlours and bakeries. Boutiques fill the streets of movement and make the Ville Nouvelle an ideal place for the classic mint tea with typical pastries that help regain strength after an afternoon of shopping.

Picture by NaSz451

Text by Blanca Frontera

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Múnich by Panenka

By Panenka www.panenka.org

As they did before with Lisbon and Milan, Panenka, a soccer magazine anyone can read, invite us to discover othercountries through their passion for the sport. This time they take us to Munich where they show us their perfect eleven, both for those places related to the football game and for those touristic places.

SPORTING ELEVEN

1 Dantestadion: Opened in 1928, was the setting for Nazi parades and today hosts two football teams.
2 Olympiastadion: Venue for some historical soccer shocks, Beckenbauer was crowned here in 74 and Van Basten in 88.
3 Olympisches Dorf: The Olympic Village in 1972 Olympic games, infamous for the murder of 11 Israeli athletes.
4 Olympia Schwimmhalle: A guy called Mark Spitz won seven gold medals in this Olympic pool. Only available to Michael Phelps.
5 Olympia Eishalle: After soccer, the most popular sport in Munich is the ice hockey: entertainment ensured.
6 Sabener Strasse: Bayern has their sports facilities in the south of the city. Here will be the next office for Pep Guardiola.
7 Neues Rathaus: Also known as City Town Hall. Bayern celebrates the titles won with the fans from here
8 Grünwalder Stadion: The old stadium of Bayern Munich until 1972 and the one for Munich from 1860 to 1965, in the heart of most fashionable district.
9 Allianz Arena: An architecture jewel opened in 2006 World Championship, its front changes color depending on who is playing.
10 Unterhaching: The club of this working class town, SpVgg, met its maximum apogee in 2000 when they go up to the Bundesliga.
11 Kurt Landauer: Next to Allianz, the former president of Bayern inmate in Dachau has a street with his name.

TOURISTIC ELEVEN

A Maximilian-Platz: A visit to this square of imperial beauty will not leave indifferent any visitor.
B Karlstor: Literally, Karl’s door, the entrance to the city heading to the Marienplatz. In winter, an ice rink.
C Frauenkirche: The stunnning two towers of 99 meters height for Munich Gothic Cathedral can be seen from anywhere in the city.
D Pinakothek der Moderne: The museum of Contemporary Art that includes works by Picasso, Magritte, Klee and Warhol.
E BMW Museum: It may be most spectacular see it from the heights, with its form of three-engine pistons, than to visit.
F Viktualienmarkt: It is the square of the supplies: a marketplace where you can buy and taste the typical products of the land.
G Residenz: Former imperial residence, it is the best vestige of courtly life Bavaria met in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries.
H Chinesischer Turm: The most renowned Munich Biergarten. Tables and benches to drink, eat and chat.
I Hofbräuhaus: Pros: beer is served continuously since 1589. Con: Nazi Party was founded by Hitler here.
J Isartor: The eastern gate of the city which is named after the river that comes from the Alps, runs through Munich and pours into the Danube.
K English Garden: 373 hectare park makes it the ‘Central Park’ of Munich. Its Chinese Tower is its main icon.

By Panenka www.panenka.org

Image: Pep Boatella / @pepboatella

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Underground. Belgrade goes under.

A city underground. This idea was developed by Emir Kusturica – filmmaker born in Bosnia, raised on Islam, later converted to Christianity and self-proclaimed Serbian – in the movie Underground (1995), which showed the eventful recent history of the former Yugoslavia in a tragicomic point of view, with the protagonists create their own world underground to protect their interests, forgetting about the events above the ground. This is some kind of Plato’s cave where they live isolated while about the Nazis invade the territory, later Tito regime during the Cold War and finally the Yugoslavian war.

Located strategically between western and eastern territories, at the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers and by the Adriatic, Aegean and Black seas, probably is the European city that has been devastated and rebuilt again the most. Serbian capital has been occupied about 38 times in the past 300 years. Austrians, Serbians and Germans have created all kind of structures in the territory that Belgrade occupies.

The insides - a tangle of tunnels, shafts, caves and bunkers - have always been there, preserved during all these wars and also created because of them. Most of the historical center is on archaeological sites and hundreds of meters of tunnels were built for many reasons, during thousands of years.

Since 2012, some of these secrets can be revealed in Belgrade - even most of them still remain closed to the public – in a trip through subterranean routes. Total, there are about 140 structures certified officially nowadays, which are allowed to be visited.

But for now is almost impossible to know how many elements can be found underground. One person that knows this well is Zoran Nikolic, cowriter of Beograd ispod Beograda (‘Belgrade under Belgrade’) where he reveals the secrets that he now also shows as specialized guide around this area.

Under the library in Belgrade

By the start of Knez Mihailova street the City Library can be found, located in a building that used to be the most famous hotel in Belgrade. In the underground floors there is the Roman room, with well-conserved rests of an old fortress and a collection of Roman sculptures and graves. The room is used for lectures, music concerts and other cultural events.

Under the Belgrade fortress

Kalemegdan, the great Fortress of Belgrade, is one of the seven fortifications that stand by the Danube, along Serbia and at the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers. Here is where, according to the legend, Attila was buried. The fortress along to the Kalemegdan Park, become the most relevant historic-cultural complex in Belgrade.

Under the ground there is Barutana cave, a former Austrian military warehouse now used as archaeological museum, including pieces from Singidunum, the antique Roman city that used to be where Belgrade is now, including sarcophagi, tombstones and altars.

Bellow the park there is also a fascinating bunker, from the last days of the Soviet Union. Josip Broz Tito, Yugoslavian head of state, wanted to built a bunker after World War II to protect Belgrade of a possible Russian invasion.

Near the fortress, artificial caves where used as food warehouses. Nowadays, restaurants and cellars are located here, where there is never a need for air-conditioned.

Under Tašmajdan park

One of the most significant parts of the route is under the centric park of Tasmajdan, right bellow the Serbian Parliament. Bellow asphalt and concrete layers there are caves built by the Romans that were used centuries after for many purposes: during the Great War they were a warehouse for bombs and during World War II they were used as hidden headquarters by the Germans.

Picture from wikimapia.org

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