9 cafes in Stockholm
In Stockholm there’s a café on nearly every counter, a total of 502 in the Swedish capital. And each one strives to offer the best coffee and food, including pastries, sandwiches, and even whole brunches and lunches. They also vie with each other to display the most original concept and décor.
In Colour - Vurma Kafé (Gastrikegatan, 2)
You wouldn’t be surprised to see Frida Kahlo, Sara Montiel or Lola Flores flouncing through the door of this cathedral of Kitsch, with its deep red and blue walls, and colourful plastic flowers in every available spot –including the waitresses’ hair–where every chair and velvet cushion is a different colour and pattern. The initial psychedelic sensation quickly subsides, and the visitor realises that there’s a lot to like in the Vurma. Much to be prized is the organic milk accompanying a hot sandwich combining the unlikeliest ingredients; but all surprisingly delicious. Our favourites are the goat cheese with apples, honey, and walnuts, and the spicy hummus.
Perfect Chaos – String (Nytorgsgatan 38)
The is a café that doubles as an antique shop`. Everything is for sale –the furniture, the table linen, glassware, lamps, and many decorative items. But it is most famous for its unspeakably delicious red fruit strudel drowned in vanilla sauce. The best place to drink your coffee, which is served in thermos jugs, is at the high table by the window where you can watch the hipsters parading through the ultramodern Söderman district. For just eight euros you can order a Sunday brunch including a hot drink, fruit juice, bread, cheese, yoghurt, a crêpe, fresh fruit, egg and even ice cream!
Milky Coffee and a Newspaper - Saturnus (Eriksbergsgatan, 6)
Local and foreign newspapers, huge, rich pastries (one cinnamon band can be shared by at least two or three people), and an exquisite café au lait served in one of Stockholm’s largest cups. It’s a cosmopolitan and cordial setting, and a great place to meet and chat with friends. The menu includes sandwiches and salads made with recipes “from everywhere”, says the owner. Noteworthy among the fare are the Cuban sandwich of cured pork loin with barbecue sauce, the Ruben pastrami, the milkshake made with fresh fruit, and the cheesecake with macadamia nuts. Average cost per person: 12 euros.
In the Market - Roberto (Östermalmstorg, 114)
No visitor to Stockholm should miss the luxurious covered Östermalms Saluhall selling local gourmet products including reindeer specialities, salmon, shellfish, cheese, and cakes. Near the entrance is the Café Roberto, a great place to catch your breath whilst touring the city on foot.
Following the Footsteps of Mikael Blomkvist – Melquwist (Hornsgatan, 78)
One of Stockholm’s top-ranked cafés is the site at which Mikael Blomkvist, the hero of Stieg Larsson’s Millennium trilogy, solved a mystery or two with the help of Lisbeth Salander. Regular customers tend to choose the full breakfast packages, which includes fresh fruit juice, a hot drink, and a hot sandwich (try the egg and mozzarella!) for 11 euros. Another appealing feature of the Melquwist is its outdoor terrace where blankets and stoves protect guests from the winter temperatures.
Shop and Café – Taverna (Hornsgatan, 5)
Unabashedly arty and contemporary, this café features a long, long wall adorned with sober black graffiti, plus a delicatessen selling a large variety of international foods, a pork butcher’s, and a bakery. There are strategically placed benches for visitors who want to enjoy a coffee on the spot.
The Infallible Classic - Vete-Katten (Kungsgatan, 55)
In business since the beginning of the 20th century, this is a classic and elegant tea room frequented by many generations of people who come to sample the delicious bread and traditional pastries, such as semla (a brioche filled with almond cream) or the cinnamon tolls made with extra sugar and butter, which are best with a big cup of steaming black coffee. The delicious baking aromas envelope the Vete-Katten and make it easy to find – just follow your nose!
Rock & Cakes - Café Fatölgen (Götgatan, 12)
The is a curious glam-rock café with enormous crystal chandeliers, rock posters, and floral wallpaper. At five euros per huge, tempting slice, the 12 kinds of cake are worth every cent and constitute the speciality of the house. Resistance is futile!
Simply Magic - Rosendals Kafé (Rosendalsterrassen, 12)
It’s the city’s most magical spot to for having a coffee, located inside a greenhouse crowded with plants, which in turn stands in a huge garden thronged with apple trees where the hip crowd can sit outdoors in the summer. You can’t help loving the bucolic atmosphere, where you can order 100% organic food grown in the garden. The Rosendals specialities are the soups, the carrot cake, and the pastries made with flowers from the garden –try the rose and nettles cakes!
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more infoGood Morning Ibiza and Good Night!
When it comes to lifestyle, Ibiza is unquestionably one of the world’s hotspots. All celebrities worth their salt make a point of visiting it in summer, but, what can you expect to find there other than between May and October? Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS dropped in on the Balearic pearl to see what brews out of season. We were amazed to discover that it is an ideal getaway for switching off. Ibiza offers the very best of slow tourism – idyllic scenery, trekking routes, fairy-tale villages and the constant friendliness of its inhabitants.
Good Morning, Ibiza!
If you have a penchant for welcoming the dawning day in the finest setting, we recommend you rise early – or stay up – and head for Cala s’Argamassa, very near Santa Eulària. This is definitely the key spot for for experiencing the Ibizan “awakening”.
Now that you’re on track, we suggest you go to the north-east, the most protected and sparsely inhabited part of the island. It is also the wildest, most rugged area and is a must for photography, if you’re looking to capture the essence of the genuine Ibiza. You will come across forests of pine and inaccessible coves. A stroll through the minute – and very quaint – villages would be in order, notably Santa Agnès. On the edge of the village you take the Camí Plade Corona which leads to a fascinating field of almond trees – preferably, in February, when the almond blossom is spectacular.
If you happen to be on the island on a Sunday, a good option for day-tripping is to visit the Sant Joan de Labritja street market with its craft wares. The hippy atmosphere so redolent a few decades ago stills lingers here. The stalls are stocked with goods for all tastes, from Moroccan leather to designer fabrics. We recommend taking a seat in the Restaurante San Juan, as it affords views over all the goings-on in this picturesque street market, which opens from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. The view also takes in the charming Church of San Juan, built in 1770.
From here, you can drive to Portinatx, the island’s northernmost point. On arrival, make sure you have a walk around Punta Galera, Punta des Moscarter, Punta d’en Gat and Cala d’en Serra. Then, the best thing is to return in an eastward direction, which takes you through such charming villages as Sant Miquel de Balansat and Sant Mateu d’Albarca. Their churches are the epitome of Ibizan religious architecture, which harmonises with the traditional stone and lime constructions. The churches are inviting, yet characteristically sober.
Good Night, Ibiza!
One of the most magical moments is dusk. There are sites for all tastes, but the best spot on the island – or, at least, the favourite among the islanders – is Cala d’Hort, a mere 11 km from Sant Josep de sa Talaia. From that point on the coast you can make out the beautiful and enigmatic islets of Es Vedrà, Es Vedranell and Sa Galera, which are said to give off a special energy – UFO sightings have been reported here. This V-shaped inlet is flanked by an open, uneven, rugged coastline with tall surrounding cliffs carpeted with pine and scrub. The beach has medium-grain white sand and mild breezes. The slope is gentle and the waters are crystal-clear, with a sandy seabed. There are three excellent seafood restaurants in the area. Cala d’HortRestaurant and Restaurante El Carmen are on the beach itself, while Es Boldado is accessed via the road running from Sant Josep. Don’t forget to bring along your camera or smartphone to capture the sunset. Here you will find that elusive desktop wallpaper that looks so good on your computer screen.
The other splendid sunset is to be had in Cala Comte. It provides a moving spectacle. People start massing silently along the coast at the prescribed time, generating a sort of ceremonial trance-like atmosphere in which everyone concurs in contemplation and introspection. The picture will undoubtedly leave an indelible mark in your memory.
Once the sun has gone down, it’s time to return to the built-up area for dinner. And, to round off the day, one of the best places to spend the night is the Hotel Simbad, which was completely refurbished in 2007. It’s a 10 minutes’ drive from Ibiza’s historic centre. One of its boons is the panoramic views of the sea and the castle to be had from its rooms. In high season you can also use the swimming pool adjoining the beach, but all year around they have a solarium and wellness centre which includes a heated indoor pool with a waterfall, a jacuzzi, gym, sauna and massage showers.
Ready to discover “the other” Ibiza? Check out our flights here.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by Ibiza Travel and Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
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Stockholm–Mad About Design
There must be something in the icy, snowbound winters with their short days, or the endless daylight and mild temperatures of summer that sparks so much creativity in the Scandinavian countries. Or, might the source of inspiration be the vast, leafy forests and myriad lakes? Whatever lies behind the secret, the fact is that the visitor to Stockholm never fails to be stunned by the sheer reach and quality of design there. It is present in the architecture, the apparel, the decoration in shops, bars and restaurants, hotel interiors and the privacy of people’s homes. It is all-enveloping and exerts a fascination on the traveller. Their flair for creating soothing environments based on simple, yet warm lines never ceases to be a source of wonder. In a nutshell, it can be defined in just three words – modern, simple and functional.
Stockholm Furniture & Light Fair
Needless to say, Stockholm hosts one of the leading design fairs in Europe, the Stockholm Furniture & Light Fair, where the latest trends in Scandinavian design are rolled out. This year it will be held from 9 to 13 February and will feature all kinds of relevant activities. As with previous years, the lounge in the main entrance will be designed by an international designer or studio. On this occasion, the Britons Edward Barber & Jay Osgerby will do the honours, as well as chairing a mass seminar for all atendees at the Stockholm Design Talks. Among the novelties at this year’s edition is Established, a section dedicated to promoting designers and studios with small-scale production, also known as makers.Young designers and design schools have also been addressed at this fair, as they have their own section, Greenhouse, a display window produced by the studio, Form Us With Love.
Stockholm Design Week
Stockholm Design Week will be held from 8 to 14 February, overlapping the Stockholm Furniture & Light Fair. It will involve all kinds of design-related activities, including lectures, presentations, events and inaugurations, to be hosted in a wide variety of showrooms and other venues in the city. Check out the full programme here.
Still More Design!
If you’ve still got the energy after so much activity, or you aren’t able to attend the fair, you can always steep yourself in design by touring some of the city’s leading districts and even pick up the odd souvenir. Following are some pointers:
Östermalm is Stockholm’s most exclusive district, where you are best positioned to find the major upmarket brands. There, everything is distributed by areas. If you’re looking for the best fashion labels, you would head for Biblioteksgatan and Bibliotekstan. If, on the contrary, you’re hunting for the big international brands, and stores specialising in design, fashion and jewellery, the best places are Birger Jarlsgatan and the area around Stureplan. If antiquities are your thing, then pay a visit to Arsenalsgatan and Nybrogatan, where you will also come across some of Stockholm’s major auction houses. Lastly, the area ringed by Sibyllegatan, Östermalmstorg, Karlavägen, Stureplan and Strandvägen boasts some of the best interior design stores in the city.
Then there is Södermalm, on the South Island. It is more of a small hipster town than a district. It goes without saying that vintage fashion and design are the all rage here, as are long beards (albeit well trimmed) and organic cuisine. Everything is centred around Götgatan, Skånegatan and the area known as SoFo, the abbreviated form of “south of Folkungagatan”. Finally, there are a number of craft shops near Slussen and in Hornsgatan.
To wind up, in contrast to the aforementioned areas, you should make a point of visiting Gamla Stan to find out what the city was like before the design craze set in. Gamla Stan, the old city, is one of Europe’s largest and best preserved medieval cities and one of Stockholm’s major landmarks. This is where the city was founded in 1252. Indeed, the whole district is from a wholly different era. You will, of course, come across tourists but, unless you get caught up with the flow, and if you pay attention, you will have the odd pleasant surprise in the form of a traditional Swedish craft shop.
Ready to soak up good design in Stockholm? Choose your flight here.
Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
Images by Stockholm Furniture & Light Fair
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Art In the Raw, Just Half an Hour from Copenhagen
A museum in Denmark named after an American state? This is not the only fetching fact about Louisiana. Located in the small town of Humlebæk, some 35 kilometres north of Copenhagen, Louisiana draws thousands of visitors each year to its alluring interior and exterior. Its contemporary art collection is truly extraordinary, as is – perhaps even to a greater degree – its siting, opposite the cold waters separating Denmark from Sweden, nestling in a vast area of parkland, trees and cliffs. Likewise its architectural design, seamlessly integrated into its surroundings.
The museum was founded in 1958 by the Danish businessman and philanthropist, Knud W. Jensen, who commissioned the first stage of the project to the architects Vilhelm Wohlert and JørgenBo. Oddly enough, the museum is not actually named after the American state, but on account of a coincidence – the previous owner of the land happened to marry three times, and each time his wife was named Louise! As the museum’s private collection is far larger than what can be displayed, many of the constituent works are loaned from one place to another. The building houses works by Lucien Freud, David Hockney, Asger Jorn (one of Denmark’s leading 20th-century artists), the Spaniard, Juan Muñoz, photographers such as the German, Thomas Demand, and the New Yorker, Cindy Sherman. And, what is likely the jewel in the crown – a room where a painting by Francis Bacon, and one of the most striking sculptures by Alberto Giacometti, are placed face to face, as if in the throes of an ongoing dialogue. In the garden we find several weighty sculptures, including one by Alexander Calder and another by Joan Miró – set just five metres apart and permanently chaperoned by the sea in the background – in addition to works by Louise Bourgeois and Max Ernst, among many others.
You have just until the end of January – be quick! – to see a long-distance exhibition hosted by the museum, as well as an installation which raises eyebrows. The exhibition reviews the extensive, colourist and provocative work of the multi-disciplinary Japanese artist, Yayoi Kusama (phallic sculptures, rooms painted in polka dots, rent garments and other marvels). The installation is a huge sculpture by the Canadian, David Altmejd, called The Flux and the Puddle, which takes up a whole room and is well nigh impossible to fathom – it involves a visceral, high-impact blend of methacrylate, food, taxidermy, strings and mirrors.
Louisiana is easy to reach from Copenhagen – at the Central Station in the capital, you take a Helsingor-bound train and get off at Humlebæk. That’s all. On your return, you are urged to explore the district of Vesterbro, adjoining the aforementioned Central Station. Once the haunts of prostitutes and crooks, it is now one of the most exciting and bustling city quarters, brimming with galleries, stores, cafés and restaurants. Make sure you stop off at Bang & Jensen, in Istedgade, which is open all day. Their lentil soup with curry and cilantro comes highly recommended, and you can also play some pinball and Arkanoid. Another landmark worth seeing is the so-called Meatpacking District, the former fish and meat market reconditioned as one of Copenhagen’s cool areas, where you can choose from among a host of appetising culinary offerings. For lovers of music and vinyl, the best spot in Vesterbro is undoubtedly Sort Kaffe & Vinyl, a small record shop cum bar. Or vice versa – a café with records. Its claim to fame is a small but carefully curated selection of folk, jazz, electronic, exotic and experimental music. For sleeping over and putting away a hearty breakfast the next morning, here are two recommendations in the same district: Bertrams Guldsmeden (very near Værnedamsvej, one of the prettiest streets in the city), and the Avenue Hotel, which has a beautiful patio if you happen to be there in spring or summer.
While the city itself is well worth the visit, the chance to see Louisiana and even spend some hours in Vesterbro makes this a well nigh compulsory trip. Why wait to book your flight to Copenhagen?
Text by Carles Novellas for ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
Images by Carles Novellas and Anna Higueras
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