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London Spanish Taste

World cuisines converge on London and Spain’s contribution is no exception. The story goes back a long way, to when a handful of immigrant chefs turned up with the intention of staying. That was just the beginning. Nowadays, Spanish cuisine is well established there. In great establishments and in the guise of some great names. Iberian presa and paleta, chorizo and pollo al chilindrón no longer require translation. Similarly, no introduction is required for such names as Juan Mari Arzak, Nacho Manzano, Eneko Atxa or Dabiz Muñoz. Not even Albert Adrià or the Roca brothers, even though their ventures in London have thus far proved fleeting – the former, in the Café Royal and the latter, on the first stop of their forthcoming tour. The present offers bites worthy of nostalgia-free refuge, while the future promises to be equally appetising.

Starred. Ametsa, managed by Juan Mari and Elena Arzak, is the first Spanish restaurant to be awarded a Michelin star in London, and just a few months after opening at that. They offer creative cuisine of Basque origin, in the form of a tapa with tea at four o’clock, as well as lunch for just a few pounds featuring a tasting menu with an immaculate parade of dishes. Their wine list shows special sensibilities for wines with soul and Spanish varieties.

With a “barra” (bar counter). Between Nieves Barragán’s different Barrafina – where there’s always a queue to try their regional Spanish tapas – and Donostia, with their pintxos and other nods to the finest Basque cuisine, you will be hard put to choose where to nibble on tasties at a reasonable price. However, if your thing is grills, go for Lurra.

With a history. Boasting four venues in London, and others still to come, Nacho Manzano’s Ibérica restaurants showcase the pull and the consistency of traditional Spanish cooking. Produce with designation of origin, generous helpings and an all-enveloping interior design are key to the success of a label which reaches as far afield as Manchester and Leeds.

Venerable. Boasting a team of chefs trained by the great names in Spanish haute cuisine, Alquimia is a must-visit restaurant for tasting fine rice in London. All of them, including the paellas, are served in portions for two, and there is also an assortment of other dishes on the menu.

Classy. There are very few places where cocktail culture carries as much weight as in London. Hence, Javier de las Muelas and his signature cocktails just had to set up in that city. Dry Martini London, at the Meliá White House - London, boasts an admirable nursery of mixologists who even create themed cocktails in the adjoining experimental kitchen.

In addition to these proposals, keep a look out for the long-awaited opening of the London StreetXo, while the restaurant Eneko Atxa is due to unveil in the One Aldwych Hotel in Convent Garden.

Overnights:
The Halkin By COMO. This hotel is synonymous with authenticity and distinction. Surrounded by embassies, with a siting as tranquil as it is near to the shopping bustle around Harrod’s, this hotel has spacious, sought-after rooms. Their luxury amenities and à la carte breakfast are also among their fortes.

IGH London Park Lane. If you want to sleep like a king, what better than to lodge in this former royal residence a stone’s throw away from Hyde Park? Their bar, restaurant and rooms have enviable views and noteworthy floral arrangements.

Meliã White House. Close to Soho and to major tourist attractions, the architecture of this hotel is an inducement on its own. The renovated rooms and the access to The Level Floor will enliven your stay all the more.

 

Text by Belén Parra of Gastronomistas

Images courtesy of the establishments

 

 

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Where To Have Your Eats And Treats In Montmartre

Marlys Schuermann, the other half of the @ParisBuFF team on Twitter

Montmartre may not have a world-famous or a Michelin starred restaurant to boast of, but it certainly has a lot to offer visitors on a budget when it comes to eats and treats. Restaurants and bistros offer tasty meals at reasonable prices. You just have to know where to go to avoid being trapped in one with bad food (and bad service to boot.)

Here are a few suggestions of where you can go if ever you find your tummy grumbling for a meal or even for just a simple treat when visiting Montmartre:

1. Au Cadet de Gascogne

4, Place de Tertre – It can’t get more touristy than in Place de Tertre, but this restaurant serves a full breakfast till 11 a.m. for €10, which consists of a glass of orange juice served with your warm croissant and jam, an omelette or 3-egg sunny side up with salad, coffee or tea and baguettes. You can’t get a better deal than that anywhere in Paris, where breakfast in a cafe could easily cost you €6 for a slice of baguette with thinly spread jam, orange juice and a cup of coffee.

2. Coquelicot

24, rue des Abbesses – This boulangerie is also a restaurant and just a few steps away from metro station Abbesses. It is a favourite of locals who take a late breakfast or brunch there. Prices of their breakfast offerings might be slightly off-putting, but you go there to sit outside, watching busy life passing by while you leisurely sip from your bowls of hot coffee or chocolate and munch on your pain au chocolat. It also offers a variety of cakes and French pastries that you can take with you to the park.

3. Le Relais Gascon

6, rue des Abbesses, is a restaurant we’ve been recommending to friends and family for years. And each one enjoyed the food so much, they return during the duration of their visits or when they return, and recommend it on to their friends and family. Tip: Order one of their warm salads, served any time of the day. But if you have a big appetite, their week-day lunch menu is great value for money.

4. Trattoria Pomodoro

20, rue de la Vieuville, has one of the best pizzas we’ve tasted in Montmartre. It is located in one of the remaining streets that will still give you an idea of how cobblestoned Montmartre looked like before boutiques and numerous souvenir shops mushroomed in the area.

5. Le Grenier à Pain

38, rue des Abbesses, – This boulangerie shot to fame (was even featured in the New York Times) because its chief bread maker baked the best baguette in Paris in 2010. The baguette is well and truly good, but what got the international press in a flurry is the fact that this particular boulanger happened to be a Senegalese. But don’t just try their baguette, with which they make their freshly made sandwiches. Their cakes are moist temptations, too.

6. Les Petits Mitrons

26, rue Lepic – You can’t walk by this little patisserie in the market street of Montmartre without drooling over the hand-made fruit tartes displayed in its shop windows. Chances are, you’ll go in there and get yourself a slice of one of their delectable cakes. If sweet tartes aren’t your thing, they also have savoury ones.

7. Au Grain de Folie

24, rue de la Vieuville – There was a time, vegetarians had difficulty finding a Parisian restaurant serving meat-free dishes. This restaurant was one of the very first dedicated to providing vegetarians an excuse to go out for a meal and it’s still going strong.

Author: Marlys Schuermann, the other half of the @ParisBuFF team on Twitter

Image: Au Cadet de Gascogne

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The charms of Fez

Fez, also known as the mazy city of Morocco is one of the country’s most ancient and best-preserved cities, conserving its authenticity and exoticism with a an architecture that has remained practically untouched for centuries. What is perhaps most striking in this North African city is the fact that its less touristy and crowded, especially if you compare it to its neighbour, Marrakech. For this reason, it has a special charm that allows oneself to submerge into the culture of the citizens, without feeling suffocated by the sellers and merchants that often bother travellers in other Moroccan cities.

Certainly, we will not get to know Fez at its best if we don’t visit the following locations:

1.- Medina Fes el-Bali

The highlight of our trip to Fez is precisely in the maze that is made up by more than a hundred districts ofFes el-Bali, that are full of narrow streets with thousands of turning points and dead ends. UNESCO has protected it since 1967, as it is considered the oldest part of the city, which concentrates some of the most important monuments.

In the past, according to the law, each district was obliged to have a mosque, a religious school, a bakery, fountain and hammam. The Mausoleum of Moulay Idris and the Al Karaouine, together with the Koranic schools Attarine and Bou Inania boast an exquisite architecture that deserves to be seen. The latter, Bou Inania can be visited by non-Muslims, with an exception of the prayer rooms.

Getting lost in the markets and streetsm Talaa Kebira and Talaa Seguira, walking through the beautiful squares Nejarine and Seffarine and learning about the souk tanners are some of the most essential and authentic experiences one can have in Fez. Those wanting to learn about Morroccan cuisine are able to do so at the Riad Tafialet, whose chef Lahcem Beqqi is one of the country’s most respected. In addition to the cooking lessons, the chef will also take you to the market to show you where to buy the best products. After this session, you will be able to prepare an exotic meal at home, including dishes like harira, tagine or couscous.
2.- Medina Fes el-Jdid

The Medina Fes el- Jdid or New Medina was raised by the Merindia dynasty in the twelfth century, outside the old town. It is full of mansions with Andalusian patios, gardens, mosques and new souks, but mostly what makes it interesting is the swanky Royal Palace of golden gates, every so often cleaned with a curious mixture of lemon juice, salt and vinegar. The Mellah or Jewish quarter, which stands in the heart of Fes el- Jdid, close to the palace also offers a large market thanks to the Grand Rue, Boulevard Bou Ksissat, contrasting with the of the facades and balconies of traditional Muslim architecture, where privacy reigns.

3.- La Ville Nouvelle

In order to complete our tour of Fez, we must not forget to visit the Ville Nouvelle, the newest part of the city that was built following the French protectionism during the twentieth century. Most urbanites enjoy this area reserved for the more affluent locals, with their walk through the Avenue Hassan II and the Boulevard Mohammed V. There’s an entire collection of glamorous bars with terraces, restaurants, ice cream parlours and bakeries. Boutiques fill the streets of movement and make the Ville Nouvelle an ideal place for the classic mint tea with typical pastries that help regain strength after an afternoon of shopping.

Picture by NaSz451

Text by Blanca Frontera

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Time Stands Still in Périgueux

History has been generous with Périgueux. This town, emblematic of the Aquitaine region, is fortunate enough to boast well preserved remains of its Gallo-Roman and medieval past, making it a unique spot. Situated on the banks of the river Isle, Périgueux makes for a great getaway, on account of both its stunning heritage and as a place to indulge in culinary delights, notably its foie gras. Périgueux, the ancient Vesunna Petrucoriorum, was one of the most important Roman centres in southern France. This is evinced in the extant remains of that civilisation, noteworthy being the Roman wall and the amphitheatre, with a capacity of 20,000 spectators, which must have rivalled Nimes or Arles. Well worth visiting is the Vesunna Gallo-Roman Museum, built around a grand Roman villa from the 1st century AD, the so-called domus des Bouquets (Domus of Vesunna). Judging by its sheer size – it covers an area of 4,000 square metres – it must have belonged to a high-ranking official of the region. Thanks to a system of walkways, the interior of the villa can be viewed from above, without impinging on the original surfaces.

A few metres from the old Gallo-Roman wall, which had some buildings set on top of it, lie vestiges of the town’s medieval past, including those of the 12th-century Château Barrière, destroyed in a fire in the 16th century, and the church of Saint-Étienne de la Cité, Périgueux’s original cathedral – up until the Wars of Religion – during which two of its four domes and the campanile were destroyed.

Touring Medieval and Renaissance Périgueux

It seems that God Himself stopped on the summit of Le Puy-Saint-Front, where man ended up building a cathedral of the same name over a former Merovingian and Carolingian church. This formidable cathedral, which rivets your gaze upwards as soon as you get near it, is a compulsory stopover for pilgrims on the Road to Santiago. It was declared a World Heritage Site in 1998. Saint-Front Cathedral is unique in that its fabric reveals exotic Byzantine flourishes at times, as well as the legacy of Sacré-Cœur on Montmartre, Paris, at others. Its interior is not quite as striking, although it does harbour the odd exceptional detail, such as the chandelier that lit the wedding of Napoleon III and countess Eugénie de Montijo in Paris.

Medieval Périgueux, with the Mataguerre Tower as the last bastion of its ancient wall, is also graced with Renaissance buildings featuring such characteristic elements of this style as inner courts and staircases. Among the most emblematic buildings is the 16th-century House of the Patissier and the Saint Front Residence, a mansion located on the Rue de la Constitution.

Gastronomy in Périgueux

At the foot of the Cathedral lies the Place de la Clautre where local farmers sell their produce in a street market on Wednesdays and Saturdays. A few streets away, two open-air markets feature two of the products that are never in short supply in the pantries of Périgueux’s inhabitants – meat and foie gras.

It is a delightful experience to wander through the maze of medieval alleyways and then book a table at one of the small bistros or restaurants where you can treat yourself to local fare. One such eatery is the refined L’Eden, on Rue de l’Aubergerie, one of the most picturesque thoroughfares in the capital of the former Périgord.

Ready to discover the charm of Périgueux? Check out your Vueling to Bordeaux here.

Text and images by Tus Destinos

Photos by Tus Destinos and Alban GILBERT - CRTA

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