A 30.000 pies por viajeros para viajeros

Results

La ciudad del ámbar

Strategically located by the Baltic Sea, between Lithuania and Poland, in Kaliningrad there is a mixture of the Soviet influences and the German roots, when Kaliningrad was the capital city of East Prussia and it was one of the major cities in Europe, better known as Köningsberg.

In 1945, during World War II, the red army occupied Köningsberg, which name changed to Kaliningrad in the memory the president of the Supreme Soviet until 1946, Mikhail Kalinin.

The city was rebuilt after the destruction during the war, creating and odd mixture of elements. Kaliningrad is a Russian setting far from its capital and 600 kilometres far from Pskow, the closest Russian city.

Baltic region is known as the biggest amber site and the most important mines are in Kaliningrad. This valuable material has reputation worldwide for its beauty and the healing properties, also magic, which are given to it.

There is a legend that says they are tears from Yurati, Goddess of the Sea, who wasn’t allowed to be in love with a mortal and was chained to the seabed, next to the castle, crying that sorrow. This romantic story tells that amber teardrops reach the sea bay but, actually, it is made from the solidified resin of tropical trees that used to be in the area.

Fishermen town

Amber is a fragile material but that can be easily modified by the masterfully of local artists and jewellers who used this valuable good. There are many objects made from this precious organic stone at an affordable price in the old buildings at the port, which are nowadays used as workshops.

This fishermen town is made of many buildings that look like a German old historic quarter, pretty different to the rest of Kaliningrad, with red roofs and colourful facades. You can reach the highest point of the drawbridge or start here a boat trip along the Pregolya river. Furthermore, from this area there is a magnificent view of the city and a great walk to the Cathedral, one of the main attractions in the city, by several restaurants and cafés.

Amber museum

In Kaliningrad an Amber museum was built at the Dohna tower, with a unique collection of more than 6.000 pieces, with insects and plants encapsulated inside, hand-made products or a huge pip of 4.280 kg, occupying 28 rooms.

The building is already a beautiful castle made of red bricks, raised by the Teutonic Knights, who had here one of the main headquarters.

Another building of the Teutonic Knights was the Köningsberg castle, which was one of the main symbols for the city. The castle was destroyed during Köningsberg bombings and now there is the Central Square and the Soviets House.

From the previous castle, there are still underground tunnels that made the ground unstable. This was called “the Prussians revenge” and it has cost lots of money and time to fix it.

In Kaliningrad region there are about forty more beautiful medieval castles, an interesting architectural route following the path of the Teutonic Knights.

Other interesting places

Kant’s tomb

The most distinguished character from the city is Immanuel Kant, philosopher, who was born and buried in Kaliningrad. The tomb is outside the cathedral, with a plaque quoting, in Russian and German, the "Conclusion" from Critique of Practical Reason: “there are two things that fill my mind with an ever new and enhanced wonder and amazement, even they at continuously reflect on them: the starry heavens above me and the moral law within me.”

The fortresses

The city is surrounded by a large number of fortresses from the 19th century. The Germans used them as a defence. Even they are abandoned, there is a route to visit the ruins.

Zelenogradsk - Cranz

24 kilometres north from Kaliningrad there is an spa area, a holidays resort where locals and tourists arrived attracted by the beaches, thermal waters and cultural heritage, with over seven centuries of history.

Fishing village by Anton Zelenov | Baltic Amber by Michal Kosior

A place well worth discovering! Check out our flights here.

more info

De Pijp

Nobody knows for sure why that is the name of the neighborhood. The literal translation is “the pipe”, it is told that because of the form of its streets. And as any pipe, it has its own drain. De Pijp finds its drain in the oasis of Sharphatipark, an English-style garden where you get away from the daily bustle.In it, it is easy to see single mothers after school, aesthetes with dog, teenagers wanting to be rappers and the couple of policemen from the neighborhood, of course, by bicycle.

Process, although is familiar to us, is always surprising. It had been a working class neighborhood, if ever with some students and budding artists searching for cheap rentals. Towards the decades of the sixties and seventies of last century, it welcomed a great number of immigrants. Today the neighborhood has become bourgeois. In all these changes, the metamorphosis is very simple: muffins are now called cupcakes, modern people circulate in fixed pinion bicycles, the rim of the glasses fattens and dogs acquire odd shapes: they shrivel dogs, stylize their figure and even have session at the hairdresser, sorry, the hair stylist, and the psychologist.. As if by magic, rents go up a 300 percent and the area acquires a right to be called bohemian.

We now have the island in the middle of the city, competing for the night out between renowned artists and the very neighborhood of Joordan. And when I say the island is not metaphorical, De Pijp is connected to the rest of the city by 16 bridges that pass over the very familiar channels representing the exported image of the Dutch capital. About the renowned artists is not from now. Piet Mondrian founded the magazine De Stijl, which served as a speaker to the eponymous group of artists, in a small study on the channel Ruysdaelkade.

But in the end, what gives personality to the neighborhood is the market called Cuypmarkt Albert and a real United Nations gastronomy distributed throughout the neighborhood, inside discrete premises, with more or less charm. The market has that English style, similar to Notting Hill . A little walking around there and you will become friends with the shopkeeper, the florist will reserve the best tulips, not those sold by weight to tourists, tourists who incidentally rather spend time here. The baker will have the bread ready for doneness that you like and will offer good cheese wedges perfect for taking a wine in good company. The simplicity of the little details. In Albert Cuypmarkt, you may buy everything. We talk about the biggest daily street market in Europe, Amsterdam’s kitchen. You will realize that you are fully integrated when you come down to enjoy the haring (raw herring) with neighbors.

As for restaurants, think about any dish in the world. They say up to 150 nationalities are now living in the neighborhood, many of them with its own place. A thousand of different smells from spices, pad thai, durum or sate. Choose any. Although admittedly that Amsterdam and good food are not close friends, it will be almost impossible to come out of De Pijp without having found your own site. Almost the least of it, anecdotal, is that the neighborhood start in the very touristy Heineken Experience museum, the limit for each side of the neighborhood, the barrier between mass tourism that walks around Leidseplein and bohemian in the hipster garb who stroll through the neighborhood.

By Rafa Pérez from El Fotógrafo Viajero

 

Why not take a trip to Amsterdam? Have a look at our flights here!

 

 

more info

Underground. Belgrade goes under.

A city underground. This idea was developed by Emir Kusturica – filmmaker born in Bosnia, raised on Islam, later converted to Christianity and self-proclaimed Serbian – in the movie Underground (1995), which showed the eventful recent history of the former Yugoslavia in a tragicomic point of view, with the protagonists create their own world underground to protect their interests, forgetting about the events above the ground. This is some kind of Plato’s cave where they live isolated while about the Nazis invade the territory, later Tito regime during the Cold War and finally the Yugoslavian war.

Located strategically between western and eastern territories, at the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers and by the Adriatic, Aegean and Black seas, probably is the European city that has been devastated and rebuilt again the most. Serbian capital has been occupied about 38 times in the past 300 years. Austrians, Serbians and Germans have created all kind of structures in the territory that Belgrade occupies.

The insides - a tangle of tunnels, shafts, caves and bunkers - have always been there, preserved during all these wars and also created because of them. Most of the historical center is on archaeological sites and hundreds of meters of tunnels were built for many reasons, during thousands of years.

Since 2012, some of these secrets can be revealed in Belgrade - even most of them still remain closed to the public – in a trip through subterranean routes. Total, there are about 140 structures certified officially nowadays, which are allowed to be visited.

But for now is almost impossible to know how many elements can be found underground. One person that knows this well is Zoran Nikolic, cowriter of Beograd ispod Beograda (‘Belgrade under Belgrade’) where he reveals the secrets that he now also shows as specialized guide around this area.

Under the library in Belgrade

By the start of Knez Mihailova street the City Library can be found, located in a building that used to be the most famous hotel in Belgrade. In the underground floors there is the Roman room, with well-conserved rests of an old fortress and a collection of Roman sculptures and graves. The room is used for lectures, music concerts and other cultural events.

Under the Belgrade fortress

Kalemegdan, the great Fortress of Belgrade, is one of the seven fortifications that stand by the Danube, along Serbia and at the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers. Here is where, according to the legend, Attila was buried. The fortress along to the Kalemegdan Park, become the most relevant historic-cultural complex in Belgrade.

Under the ground there is Barutana cave, a former Austrian military warehouse now used as archaeological museum, including pieces from Singidunum, the antique Roman city that used to be where Belgrade is now, including sarcophagi, tombstones and altars.

Bellow the park there is also a fascinating bunker, from the last days of the Soviet Union. Josip Broz Tito, Yugoslavian head of state, wanted to built a bunker after World War II to protect Belgrade of a possible Russian invasion.

Near the fortress, artificial caves where used as food warehouses. Nowadays, restaurants and cellars are located here, where there is never a need for air-conditioned.

Under Tašmajdan park

One of the most significant parts of the route is under the centric park of Tasmajdan, right bellow the Serbian Parliament. Bellow asphalt and concrete layers there are caves built by the Romans that were used centuries after for many purposes: during the Great War they were a warehouse for bombs and during World War II they were used as hidden headquarters by the Germans.

Picture from wikimapia.org

A place well worth discovering! Check out our flights here.

more info

Five One-Day Getaways From Dublin

If you come to Dublin with time on your hands, you could make numerous one-day outings from the city. One such option is to explore the coast north and south of Ireland’s capital, dotted with quaint fishing villages, idyllic spots to wander through and places to relax – all just a ride away on public transport. DART, the rapid rail system which runs along Dublin’s coastline, from Greystones in the south to Balbriggan in the north, and inland to Maynooth and Hazelhatch, is the best way to get around. What’s more, the comfort it offers and the route it plies – hard by the coast with great views – has led it to become a serious alternative for tourists visiting the area. Here are some towns and places of interest you will come across on the way:

1. Howth

Situated on the north end of Dublin Bay, this is a charming fishing village. From the train station located in the town centre, you can go on four looped walks that enable you to soak up this beautiful maritime village. Some of the main places to see are Baily Lighthouse, Howth Castle and gardens and the ruins of St Mary’s Abbey. Lambay Island and Ireland’s Eye are two essential spots for bird-lovers, as numerous species can be spotted there.

2. Malahide

This seaside town north of Dublin is well worth strolling about to discover its shops and dive into its numerous bars and restaurants to have a pint and recharge. Don’t leave without first seeing its castle and surrounding gardens. Malahide Castle was built in the 12th century by the English Talbot family, who resided there until 1973. It is now open to the public for viewing and discovering the history of that illustrious family.

3. Sandycove

Sandycoveborders on south Dublin. Its main sightseeing landmark is the Martello Tower, also known as the James Joyce Tower, with its characteristic circular shape. It is part of a complex of fifteen towers that were built in the Dublin environs in 1804 to defend against the Napoleonic invasion. It houses the James Joyce Museum, which exhibits this celebrated Irish writer’s letters, photographs and belongings. Joyce lived on these premises for a time and it is the point of departure for one of his most popular novels, Ulysses.

4. Dalkey

Slightly further south of Sandycove lies Dalkey. This village was founded as a Viking settlement and has become a residential area for the well-to-do in recent years, so you are likely to come across the odd luxury mansion here. Bono and Van Morrison are among the celebrities that have succumbed to its charm. For enthusiasts of cultural heritage, the main street features a 10th-century church and two, 14th-century Norman castles. Hiking is a popular pursuit here and therefore a good excuse for seeking out scenic views. Dalkey Island, at the southern end, is one of the main attractions in the area. Access is via a regular boat service. The island is uninhabited and features archaeological remains of two churches and the Martello tower.

5. Bray

At the end of the line running along Dublin’s southern coastline lies Bray. This is a traditional summer resort for Dubliners and is still in vogue today. One of its landmarks is Bay Head, a 241-metre-high hill overlooking the sea separating the towns of Bray and Greystones. There is a coastal path around the foot of the hill that connects the two towns and is well worth walking. If you’re fit, you can also trundle up to the top, which is quite a steep climb, but the views to be had at the end of the walk are well worth the effort.

Ready to enjoy the coastal towns beyond Dublin’s boundaries? Check out our flights here.

Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación

Photos by Giuseppe Milo, William Murphy, Ana Rey, Bruce Calder

more info