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Ten cafés in Frankfurt where you could spend hours reading a good book

By Silvia Artaza from Gastronomistas

That Frankfurt is a place of contrasts is something you take in at first sight when you land at this German city. A skyline that rises over buildings from another era; a busy Turkish restaurant full of suited executives at lunchtime; a Japanese pâtisserie where you can just as well buy macarons as sit at its sushi bar.

We got away to Frankfurt for three days to find out what the city has to offer apart from the famous sausages it gives its name to. And we found out.

We used NH City as our headquarters. It's a very well located hotel, a stone's throw from Konstablerwache Square, where the pedestrian shopping area (Zeil) begins. There is a train station of the same name right there, with a direct line to the airport, which is an advantage worth considering when planning your trip. And if you like markets, the square has an interesting market of regional products at the weekend, with heaps of things to try from small-scale producers.

At Christmas, as in many German cities, street markets take centre stage, making this is a great time to visit Frankfurt. But undoubtedly the event in the city with the greatest international impact is the Book Fair. Held in October, it is the largest and most important book fair in the world, a showcase for publishers that attracts over 250,000 visitors each year.

It wasn't October, but we found a good book and headed off to look for those ten cafés where you could spend hours reading.

1- Iimori Pâtisserie & Restaurant. Macarons and Sushi Bar.

Very close to the cathedral, in the heart of Frankfurt, two discreet Japanese women welcome us to this original pâtisserie. A charming café to settle into and enjoy any of the sweet snacks from behind the glass counter: macarons, pastries, fine cakes, including green tea cake, fresh fruit tarts, etc. If you like tea, it's a place not to miss. And the same goes if you like Japanese food. Because upstairs you'll be surprised to find a sushi bar with a great choice of dishes both for lunch and dinner, as well as to take away.

There is a daily buffet breakfast with pastries, croissants, bread, fresh fruit with yoghurt, jams, chocolate cream, sausages and cheeses. And on Saturdays and Sundays there's brunch, where Iimori's sweet side is combined with a great selection of sushi and other Japanese specialities. (Braubachstraße 24)

2-Bitter & Zart. The pleasure of chocolate.

Without leaving this street, we switched from tea and pastries to chocolate in all its varieties. Bitter & Zart began as a shop offering fine chocolate. Tablets, pralines, chocolates, truffles, cocoa... of all the imaginable intensities and flavours (toasted almonds, Ceylon cinnamon, caramel, etc.).

But in 2012 an adjoining room, which they call the "living room", was opened. A cozy and inviting place to enjoy a coffee, tea, chocolate drink or juice, with something sweet or savoury from the counter display. If you come here you have to try the Bitter & Zart chocolate cake. (Braubachstraße 14)

 3-Frankfurter Kunstverein café/bar.

Located in the heart of Frankfurt near Römer square, Frankfurter Kunstverein is an art centre that pioneers in the production and exhibition of young and experimental artists. Its café/bar is, as you'd expect, a meeting place for creative minds, where artists and advertising people are to be seen with their laptops while having a cup of coffee.

The fresh homemade food is based on seasonal regional produce. They bake their own bread and the fruit juices are freshly squeezed. It's a great choice if you're looking for a place to have breakfast or enjoy a cocktail in a good atmosphere. (Steinernes Haus am Römerberg. Markt 44).

 4-Café Metropol. A must-do.

Also right by the cathedral, Café Metropol is one of the most common places to get together in the city. A good atmosphere and good prices. At its large wooden tables you can have coffee, one of the best homemade pies in Frankfurt, sandwiches, pasta and salads.

It is very bright and you can spend hours gazing through its large window onto a garden, which, coupled with its simplicity, makes it one of the nicest places we found to enjoy a good read. That said, you should know that for dinner (with its international menu) and breakfast at the weekend it's chock-a-block, so it's best to book. (Weckmarkt 13-15)

5-Breakfasts at Café Karin

Another place that is often full is Café Karin, which is a great place for breakfast. The variety is incredible. The breakfast menu uses the names of Frankfurt's various districts, with choices ranging from a classic croissant with butter and jam to a heaped plate of cheeses, meats, sweets... And of course, there are also fresh juices, coffee and muesli, plus the possibility of customising your breakfast with lots of extras. We could call it breakfast, or better still, brunch, because it's available until the evening. (Grosser Hirschgraben 28)

6-Café Albatros. An afterwork place with atmosphere

People had told us about Bockenheim, a neighbourhood we reached passing through a more residential area. Less lively than the centre, but with interesting places like this, Café Albatros, full of young people having a quiet beer after work.

Like Café Metropol, it closes after midnight during the week, so the atmosphere is lively at dinner time. And, of course, there is the Sunday brunch, with some 50 different hot and cold, sweet and savoury dishes. The menu is international, ranging from Italian pasta dishes and salads to tasty Samosas with yoghurt and mint sauce. (Kiesstrasse 27)

7-Roseli. An early evening café

A bit hidden away. This café is located in an alley in an area halfway between the shopping district (Zeil) and the main square (Römer). We liked it because it's small, intimate and very pleasant. And because it has a charming terrace away from the traffic for days with good weather.

Organic teas, coffees and irresistible cakes. But there are also savoury dishes like quiche, focaccia, panini and salads. Nearby Roseli there are other urbane alternatives worth dropping in at, like Brot und seine Freunde (a home bakery with coffees, sandwiches and sweets) and Souper! (with loads of great soups to eat in or take away). (Weißadlergasse 9)

8-History at the tables of Café Liebfrauenberg

Part of Frankfurt's history is definitely to be found here, in this café. Established over 120 years ago, it was and remains a place for social gatherings in the city centre. With its air of nostalgia and of being from another time, it is a must on a list like this, taking in this German city's cafés.

Coffees, teas, drinking chocolate and a variety of sweets to drive you mad. Pancakes, crepes and waffles, and also homemade cakes made with seasonal fruit. Don't miss the walnut cake. (Liebfrauenberg 24)

9-Cocktails and more at Moloko +

Neither Anthony Burgess's book nor Kubrick's film adaptation of it reveal its recipe, but we remember the Moloko Plus as the cocktail drunk by the characters in A Clockwork Orange. Its namesake in Frankfurt also began as a cocktail bar, but has now evolved into a non-stop concept where you can have everything from breakfast in the morning to a mojito at night. The interior design is excuse enough in itself to drop by. (Kurt-Schumacher-Straße 1)

10-Café Süden. Drop in to try its sweets and teas

We love to get off the tourist trail and so one afternoon we ended up in the Bornheim district. We were told that this is an area where locals hang out, which makes us like it even more. With places like this little café. Just four little tables and a bar at the back full of cakes. Really lovely, a place to enjoy a good tea in a candlelit atmosphere. To our surprise, it's the little brother of a Spanish food restaurant in the city! (Berger Strasse 239)

And don't miss…

Operation "Frankfurt beyond the frankfurter" achieved, but we must confess that we also tried a few of them. Which is why, along with all of these recommendations, we encourage you to not miss ...

A visit to a traditional cider (Apfelwein) bar, like Apfelwein Wagner in the Sachsenhausen district, with apple/cider wine, breaded cutlets (Schnitzel) with green sauce(Grünen Soße), which they make with “seven herbs” (borage, chervil, watercress, parsley, burnet, chives and sorrel), or a typical cream cheese with paprika served as a spread starter (Spundekas). (Schweizer Straße 71)

And you should also stroll around the daily market at Kleinmarkthalle, where you can stop off at the Schreiber stall to try some of its sausages. At mid morning there is usually a long queue of locals waiting their turn, but if you want a real frankfurt in Frankfurt, this is the place. (Hasengasse 5)

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Napoles pizza e basta

The sun always shines on Naples, and the city thrives on its warming rays.  Neapolitans –gentile napolitani–are famous for their good cheer and vitality. When a Neapolitan is happy about something he will often order a coffee and pay for two, his own and that of the next customer to order one –a tradition known as the caffè sospeso or “pending coffee”.  What can you expect in a city with traditions like this? Generous portions, for one thing!

Pizza
The classic pizza napoletana consisting of tomato and mozzarella cheese on a thin soft dough is famous everywhere, and is available in a dazzling range of variants in the city of its birth.  Legend has it that popular Margherita version, spiced with basil, was first concocted by a local pizzaiolo in honour of Margaret of Savoy (1589-1655), Duchess of Mantua and Vice-reine of Portugal. But visitors to Naples should also sample the surprisingly wonderful fried pizza served at La Masardona, an ancient family-run establishment now managed by Enzo Piccirilo.  It resembles a no-frills doughnut shop, where rock-bottom prices and high quality food make it a unique dining, lunching, or snacking experience. For a superb exponent of the more classic Neapolitan pizza, try Da Michele, where part of the Julia Roberts film Eat Pray Love was filmed. At once dauntingly historic and warmly welcoming, it serves as juicy and tasty a Margherita as you can find anywhere in the city. But more adventurous palates may enjoy La Notizia, where master chef Enzo Coccia’s highly creative and unorthodox pizzas have made it the first and only pizza parlour to win Michelin stars. Unless you count Edoardo Trotta’s newly opened pizza unit of the famed Palazzo Petrucci, which also has a Michelin star. Try his tasty, huge ripieno al ragú (folded pizza stuffed with meat sauce). Another good choice is 50 kalò, managed by Ciro Salvo, though you may have to queue. The extra-long fermentation (rising) of the dough, and the carefully selected local ingredients make for a pizza that many Neapolitans regard as well worth the wait.

La Masardona
Via Giulio Cesare Capaccio, 27
Tel. +39 081 28 10 57

Da Michele
Via Cesare Sersale 1/3
Tel. +39 081 55 39 204

Pizzaria La Notizia
Via Michelangelo da Caravaggio, 94
Tel. +39 081 19 53 19 37

Palazzo Petrucci Pizzeria
Piazza San Domenico Maggiore 5/7
Tel. +39 081 55 12 460

50 Kalò
Piazza Sannazzaro 201/B
Tel. +39 081 19 20 46 67

Sweet Stuff
The flaky sfogliatelle (filled shell-shaped pastries), and the babà (rum-drenched yeast cakes) are Naples’ most typical sweet offerings, but the sweet-toothed visitor will also appreciate the torta caprese, originating on the island of Capri but adopted long ago in Campania. A sign on Naples’ most celebrated bakery, Giovanni Scaturchio, boasts of the “Babà, sfogliatella, la caprese e il famoso 'ministeriale'. Sinonimo de napoletanità e di dolcezza” (“synonymous with Neapolitaneity and sweetness”). Some people say they find it a bit old-fashioned, but trade is always brisk there. The ‘ministeriale’ by the way, is a traditional chocolate medallion filled with a cream liqueur made from a secret formula. Then there’s Crostata (fruit pie),and cassata (ice cream with dried fruit and nuts) –the list goes on and on, but Naples is dotted with sweet and pastry shops, so you can always indulge your cravings. Not to mention the ice cream parlours. The latest of these to open its doors is the Rol Gelateria, managed by Olga Nigro and Roberta Rubino, already the most popular place to have a gelato on the Lungomare seafront promenade.

Giovanni Scaturchio Pasticceria-Gelateria
Piazza San Domenico Maggiore, 19
Tel. +39  081 55 17 031

Rol Gelateria
Via Partenope, 12/m
Tel. +39 081 76 48 393

Bar Pasticceria Il Capriccio
Via Carbonara, 39
Tel. +39 081 44 05 79

Sfogliatella Mary
Via Toledo, 66 (esquina Galleria di Umberto I)
Tel. +39 081 40 22 18

Gay Odin
Via Vetriera, 12
Tel. +39 081 41 78 43
(several outlets in the city)

Pintauro
Via Toledo, 275
Tel. +39 081 41 73 39

Views
Many have tried, but few photographers have been able to resist the magnificent, stunning, glorious Naples sunsets. The best vantage point would be the precincts of the Castel dell’ Ovo (Egg castle), a lovely fortress on the islet of Megaride in the Gulf of Naples. The Roman poet Virgil is said to have placed a magical egg under the building’s stone foundations to prevent its destruction. So far, it seems to have worked. And as the locals say, “Se non è vero, è ben trobato” (“even it it’s not true, it’s a good story!”)
Another good spot for snapping the evening skies is any room with a view in the Grand Hotel Parker's, a classical five-star hotel featuring a roof garden overlooking the sea, a buffet breakfast with home-made Neapolitan pastries made fresh each day, and many, many stories about wine. The owner, Maria Ida Avallone, also owns the Villa Matilde cellars, dealing only in local vintages that respect Neapolitan traditions. It is one of Grand Hotel Parker of 520 Independent Hotels Integrated into Small Luxury Hotels of the World ™ ( SLH ), a selection of charming establishments in 70 countries worldwide, from design hotels vanguard one palatial mansions of the seventeenth century, Sanctuaries from the center of some Private citeies islands, from Historic houses idyllic resorts.

Grand Hotel Parker's
Corso Vittorio Emanuele, 135
Tel. +39 081 76 12474

Villa Matilde
S.S. Domitiana, 18
CAP 81030 Cellole (CE)
Tel: +39 08 23 93 20 88

Wines and Liquors
Did you know that in Naples it’s a tradition to wash down your last bite of pizza with Marsala wine?  Not that it is by any means the only notable variety of wine in the Campania region, which is rich in vineyards and wineries, thanks to the winning combination of volcanic soil and abundant sunshine. The traditional Falanghina variety of grape is king, and is the basis of the dry, light whites made in the Falerno di Massico DOC. Other whites worth trying are from the Greco di Tufo DOC and the Fiano di Avellino DOC, while the best local reds are from the Taurasi DOC, while the Lacrima Cristi del Vesuvio DOC is noted for whites, reds, and both smooth and sparkling rosés, as well as sweet white dessert wines. For stronger drinks, the local limoncello should be sampled, and also the cream of limoncello prepared at Limonè. Another unusual liqueur is nocillo ornocino, made with walnuts, and a speciality of E’Curti, managed by Enzo d’Alessandro.

Limonè
Piazza San Gaetano, 72
Tel. +39 081 29 94 29

E'curti
Via G. Garibaldi, 57
Sant’Anastasia (NA)
Tel. +39 081 5312797

La Campania
One of the most famous products of the Campania region is mozzarella cheese made from the milk of water buffalos. One of the best places to sample –and stock up on– local cheeses, pastas, eggs, tomatoes, olive oil, drinks, and even pannetonne sweet bread, is Campania Mia, run by Rino Silvestro as a showcase of the best local products. The shop is also the nerve centre of Naples’ “slow food” movement, and from time to time special food tasting sessions are held in the streets adjacent to the shop.

Campania Mia
Via Belvedere, 112
Tel.+39 32 88 56 24 66

Makes you want to go, right? Do it! Check out our prices here!

Report by Carme Gasull and Belén Parra / Gastronomistas

 

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Lost & Found in London

My Vueling City and Mondo Sonoro will be joining forces over the next few months to focus on the music and pop culture aspects of some of Vueling’s destinations. It couldn’t be otherwise – the alliance made its debut in London, the cradle of pop music. For this premiere we decided to spend a weekend accompanying Joan S. Luna, chief editor of this established music magazine. It was a heady few days during which we found time for everything – culinary variety, from Spanish gourmet drawn through an English filter, to fusion to fast food of dubious excellence, to comics and long strolls along Bankside, Oxford Street and Dalston, the district that is chalking up points to become the British capital’s new Soho. We often got lost in the maze-like network of public transport, and also ended up at the odd party, of course. Here, then, is what we did over the 40 hours we spent in London.

The Warm-up

We hit the megacity on a Friday afternoon. What with the time change, however, it was more night than afternoon. It was a typical London day – cold and rainy to different degrees. But, that was of no consequence to us. We had planned to meet the Mondo Sonoro crew at the magnificent Ibérica Victoria restaurant, the latest to be spawned by the family of Ibérica establishments, the talk of the town in London and Manchester. This is where we first met Joan S. Luna, the protagonist of this post. For him it was “a pleasure to savour the fantastic menu offered by Ibérica. Friendly service, great food and a decor that impacts from the outset. The interior design is really striking”. Indeed, the reception counter is crowned by a sort of cloud made up of all kinds of kitchenware. The restaurant was designed by the architect, Lázaro Rosa Violán, from Barcelona’s Estudios Contemporain. Here you can delight in the finest Spanish cuisine, but with an English flourish, considering that 95% of the guests are local. The head chef is none other than the Michelin twice-starred Nacho Manzano. Prevalent among his offerings are the meats and carefully crafted tapas. Make sure you try their croquettes – Marcos Fernández, Ibérica’s Managing Director, revealed that their secret lies in having a chef dedicated exclusively to tapas. We can also recommend their “twice cooked lamb”, marinated in cherries, tomatoes and red peppers from the Bierzo region. Once we had eaten to the full, the wisest thing was to retire to build up our strength for the Saturday, which we knew was going to run well into the early morning hours.

Just Another Hipster Day

London has been at the forefront of grass-roots European culture since the seventies. The length and breadth of the city is graced by neighbourhoods that operate as veritable incubators of trends. Here it is decided what the “in thing” for the next few weeks is to be. A short while ago it was all the rage to grow a beard, return to a traditional lifestyle and submit to vintage interiors. So, who knows what the trend is now? Maybe stamp collecting will suddenly become the hipster fashion.

We decided to begin with a bit of pop culture, so we spent the morning at the Tate Modern where we saw the exhibition, The World Goes Pop. “More than the exhibits themselves, it was quite an eye opener to discover the somewhat hidden face of the Pop Art boom, or how its shock wave yielded fruit in such countries as Spain, Poland and Japan”, remarked Joan when we emerged from the stunning building, a former power station dating from the forties. We then took a stroll through Bankside, where we came across one of the city’s numerous Christmas markets. “For me Bankside is one of the most attractive areas. You can roam its streets and end up wondering whether you are actually in a big city or a small coastal town”.

Motley Afternoon

After lunch, we set off to indulge one of Joan’s great pursuits – manga, comics and sci-fi. We got to Tottenham Court Road station and, after getting lost for the umpteenth time (along Oxford Street, on this occasion), we managed to locate that temple of cult entertainment, the nerdy store par excellence, Forbidden Planet. “This is obviously a landmark for enthusiasts of comics and fantasy literature. Once a compulsory reference point, it may have lost some of its clout to the slew of similar establishments that have popped up in other cities across the world. Despite that, it is an entertaining venue where time really flies”. And indeed it did. We then headed along Denmark Street and were taken aback by the sight of so many music shops – there were even some specialising in basses. After that we made for Dalston, the city’s new wicked precinct. Dalston is an ugly street, so don’t expect a pretty sight. It is full of Turkish restaurants touting döner kebab. However, it is well known for its night scene and for being one of the gay areas. “It was surprising to see how a suburb – or small satellite town – like Dalston has grown into a burgeoning hub of nightlife with noteworthy cultural offerings”. It boasts loads of sleazy joints consisting of narrow basements and endless lines of revellers queuing up to get in. After ambling about, we decided to whet our whistles at The Victoria. “It was a real surprise, set in the heart of Dalston. A grand programme hosted by DJs of diverse styles and some underground concerts to write home about”. We were also splendidly chaperoned by David García, the floor manager.

Experiencing London’s Nightlife

We then went to dinner at The Richmond, “a restaurant where everything works to perfection, from the delightful before-dinner cocktails to the assortment of unusual and highly elaborate dishes”. In effect. Impressively, some of the cocktails were named after groups. The one we liked best was the Sage Against the Machine, based on Wolfschmidt Kümmel, Cocchi Americano, fresh lime and sage. Of the dishes we tasted we can recommend the Galloway beef sirloin matured for 35 days with brine-soaked onion rings and marrowbone. After the tuck-in, and the excellent service dispensed by Vanita Prasad, the locale’s head waiter, we rushed off to The Scala, “one of the most emblematic multi-purpose venues in London offering a balanced set of diverse events in the various areas. The concerts I saw there are still fresh in my mind”, Joan recalls. Incidentally, that is where the last Mega Spanish Party of 2015 was held, organised by Rock Sin Subtítulos Productions Ltd, a promoter dedicated to hosting Spanish artists in London. Joan S. Luna was actually billed to DJ the best hits from here and there at the party. The night went off well, with a packed venue and the satisfaction of having made the most of our short stay in London.

Recommendations

Above all, we advise you to have a map handy (preferably an analog map, to avoid having to frantically search for free wi-fi areas to follow Google Maps from your mobile). London is a colossal city with – shall we say – an unusual urban layout. If you want to use public transport, you need to first take out a diploma, as understanding its workings is for advanced users only. We recommend you take your time moving from A to B, as you are likely to get lost at some stage or spend some time getting your bearings. If you’re going for a weekend or just a few days, the best thing is to take out an Oyster Card. They can be topped up and this is undoubtedly the fastest, most comfortable and economical way of funding single rides by bus, underground, DLR, tram, Thames Clippers, Emirates Air Line and most National Rail services. Another economical and efficient way of moving about the City is by Uber London, a more flexible alternative to taking taxis. Using their mobile app, you can located the nearest vehicles and calculate the estimated waiting time, fare and journey time. And, you have it all recorded, in case you need to file a complaint.

This, then, is the first of a series of joint experiences between My Vueling City and Mondo Sonoro. Our next stop will be in 2016. Music will of course be the pretext for our forthcoming post. But, where are we headed – Paris, Manchester, Berlin, Ibiza…? Stay tuned, and you will soon find out.

Oh! I nearly forgot – it you want to enjoy all these fun spots in London, check out our flights here.

 

Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación

Images by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación, Wikipedia Commons, Ibérica Food & Culture Ltd.

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Going for tapas in la Barceloneta

Enjoy a tasty tapa of fried anchovies, calamari or brava potatoes in the bars of one of the best-known districts of Barcelona: la Barceloneta.

Can Maño

One of those bars that has been passed down the family. Its lack of signs means the entrance can easily go unnoticed. The tapas are eaten on a melamine table, the plates and glasses are straight out of the school canteen, the toilet is poky, they take no reservations and do not accept plastic. They don’t need to offer any better service to always have a queue at the door, because the real reason for going to Can Maño is to eat fish. In this, they are unbeatable because it is always wonderfully fresh. Fried anchovies, hake, sardines… all of it straight from the market.

Can Maño
Carrer del Baluart 12

Can Paixano

A bar flanked by two enormous wooden gates in the narrow streets of the Barcelona Bazaars. It is also known as La Xampaneria because it traditionally sells baguettes accompanied by a glass of rosé cava. You can buy the whole bottle for prices ranging between 4 and 6 euros depending on the quality, but they will not sell it to you unless it is purchased with food.

Cured meat from Leon, Catalan sausage and hams hang from the ceiling, constituting the ingredients of their delicious baguettes. The service is fast, you eat quickly and then you make space for the next diner.

Can Paixano
Carrer de la Reina Cristina 7

La Cova Fumada

Especially known for its famous potato “bombas”. The cod, beans and chick peas with black pudding are also delicious. Magí, one of the owners, is our waitress today, but the whole family works in this bar: the grandmother, brothers and sisters and children. Like many of these local bars, it is closed on Sundays.

Bar Electricitat

One of those bodegas that has always been there, located in the plaza del mercat, opposite the Cova Fumada. Home-made vermouth, anchovies, crab salad, stuffed eggs… A place that does vermouth the old-fashioned way.

Bar Electricitat
Carrer de Sant Carles, 15

Bar Jai-ca

Another tapas classic in la Barceloneta is bar Jai-ca, where it is always difficult to find a free corner. The variety and quality of its tapas will make your mouth water as you gaze at the trays of fried fish, prawns, baby squid and bravas potatoes crammed onto the bar, and the taste is even better.

Ba Jai-ca
Carrer Ginebra, 13

Ca’l Chusco

A family bar serving good tapas, but if you are looking for a quick beer at the bar, the tapa is free. We were given deep-fried hot green peppers stuffed with fresh cheese and potato “bombas”. They will often serve you fried fish.

Ca’l Chusco
Calle Almirall Aixada, 5

Cal Papi

With the ambience of an old fishermen’s bar, at Cal Papi the specialities are anchovies, home-made cod fritters, prawns, oxtail and deep fried anchovies, but we were also surprised to see frogs’ legs on the menu! Another of the more unusual tapas was cod skins, which are displayed on the bar and which they let us try on seeing our surprised faces. They are crunchy and taste a bit like pork scratchings.

Cal Papi
Calle Atlántida, 65

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