With the huge, varied offerings in its restaurants, Seville is well worth a culinary visit. From the oldest in the city, Rinconcillo (Calle Gerona, 40. Seville), where the waiters write your order down on the bar counter with a piece of chalk, to the modern Eslava (Calle Eslava, 3-5. Seville), award-winner for such tapas as Un cigarro para Bécquer (a cigar for Bécquer), which emulates a cigar, made of brik pastry filled with algae, cuttlefish and squid-ink calamari.

Then there is the canned fare of La Flor de Toranzo (Calle Jimios, 1-3), the varied side-dishes of Catalina Casa de Comidas y Más (Plaza Padre Jerónimo de Córdoba, 12. Seville) and the legendary piripi (sousing) at Bodeguita Antonio Romero (Calle Antonio Díaz, 5, Antonio Díaz, 19 y Gamazo, 16. Seville), a bread roll filled with bacon, cheese, tomato and mayonnaise, with a touch of garlic and pork fillet.

If Seville is worth visiting, its environs also deserve a culinary tour, either to taste the local fare or to find out more about such emblematic products as their cured ham.

At Sanlúcar la Mayor, some 25 kilometres from Seville, is the restaurant Alhucemas (Avenida del Polideportivo, 4. Sanlúcar la Mayor), an eatery serving deep-fries which, according to many chefs, have the best fried fish in Spain. While they have not yet earned a Michelin star, the managers are regulars at gastronomic congresses, where they reveal their culinary secrets. The restaurant is also frequented by shrine pilgrims seeking their spicy skewered meat known aspinchos morunos,and their lobster salad.

A bit further afield – just one hour away by car – is the must-see ham museum unveiled five months ago at the Cinco Jotas (Calle San Juan del Puerto, s/n), in Jabugo, Huelva. The trip is rewarding as it reveals all the secrets of the production and curing of 100% Iberian bellota ham via a series of talking panels, graphics, videos, interactive screens and a 12-metre-long cyclorama which plunges you into the meadows where the hogs roam free… There are three unforgettable moments: walking through the impressive cellar, where 50,000 (maybe more) legs of ham are kept, the room where a contest is held – with screens, as if in a TV set – where visitors are quizzed about what they see and awarded virtual slices of ham, and the end of the visit, where you are treated to a tasty delicacy, washed down with red wine or sherry.

Nearby the museum you can visit the Gruta de las Maravillas (Calle Pozo de la Nieve, s/n. Aracena) in Aracena, a complex of monumental, millenary caves with interior lakes and figures so incredible they seem hallucinatory. You can have lunch at the Arrieros restaurant (Arrieros, 2. Linares de la Sierra) in Linares de la Sierra, where they serve one of the best hamburgers in Spain, made of tenderloin and field mushrooms. (According to Martín Berasategui, it’s the best hamburger he’s ever tasted, and he must be right.) Indeed, the menu is based on Iberian pork, field mushrooms, fruit and vegetables from their allotment and local aromatic herbs. In a nutshell, what their chef, Luismi López, describes as alta cocina serrana (“highland haute cuisine”), which materialises in the form of excellent dishes, notably Iberian game carpaccio, foie gras and vinaigrette del Condado, tomato soup, strawberry gazpacho, scrambled blood sausage and king prawns, toast with semi-cured cheese and herbs…

Text and images Ferran Imedio (Gastronomistas)

We travelled to Tel Aviv, Israel’s most European city, an island of hedonism in the heart of the Middle East where you can delight in the seaside, numerous art galleries, designer stores, discos… and restaurants.

Benedict

Israelis breakfast with gusto. That’s why at nine in the morning you will catch sight of bars and restaurants packed with customers breakfasting as if they were having lunch. The queue outside this venue, while not very long, speaks volumes of this restaurant’s popularity. It is the perfect place for breakfasting on good eggs Benedict in all its variations, accompanied by salad, bread and a beverage. It opens 24 hours, seven days a week.

Minzar Bar

Open every day and at all times, which is why it is a perennial meeting point for sharing a beer and a chat. Located next to the Carmel Market (Shuk Ha'Carmel), it is a prime meeting place for Tel Aviv intellectuals.

Espresso Bar

The elegant Rothschild Boulevard is brimming with lively, colourful establishments. One of these, on the corner of Herzl Street, is the place for an eggs Benedict and salmon breakfast on their peaceful terrace. Open every day from 6 a.m. to midnight.

La Gaterie

A small café serving marvellous croissants filled with cheese, ham, salami and egg… Ask for a local wine – you’ll be surprised. Open every day from 9 a.m. to 1 in the morning. Located on King George Street, which links the Dizengoff Centre to Kikar Rabin, the City Hall square, replete with bars and a ground zero for street protests.

Dalton

In the morning they serve up hearty breakfasts, as Israelis like them, while Italian cuisine is available for lunch and dinner. This restaurant with its retro decor lies in the heart of the Neve Tzedek quarter, a quiet and somewhat bohemian neighbourhood in Tel Aviv. Open every day from 7 a.m. to 11 p.m. Pines Street 27.

Dallal

Tel Aviv’s beautiful people (celebrities included) frequent this house with two patios to taste their Mediterranean dishes or have a cocktail. It is five minutes from the beach and opens every day from 9 a.m. to 11.30 p.m.

Night Kitchen

One of the fashionable restaurants in Tel Aviv is Night Kitchen. Modern and informal, it offers seasonal, proximity products, particularly vegetables. Open every day from 7 p.m. onwards.

Suzanna

Newcomers to this restaurant serving Mediterranean cuisine are usually wowed by their terrace, embellished by a giant tree affording good shade… and by their soups! Located in the Neve Tzedek district, next door to the Bat Sheva Dance Company.

The Old Man And The Sea

Several restaurants are sited in Jaffa Port. This one, which recalls Hemingway’s novel, The Old Man and The Sea and specialises in seafood cuisine, presents diners free-of-charge with a jug of lemonade and 22 side dishes, along with your order. The prawns and calamari are very fresh, and the mussels are served with garlic butter. Tea and coffee are also on the house. Open every day from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.

The Prince

You hesitate when about to step into this particularly dark, rickety entrance. If you’re a daredevil and cross the threshold, on the first floor you come to this venue, with one of the quaintest terraces in Tel Aviv. There you can enjoy a cocktail or beer, apart from ordering something simple to eat. Open every day from 5 p.m. to 11.30 p.m.

Aria

A two-storey house with two distinct proposals – upstairs is a gastronomic restaurant featuring delicate, modern, elegant and balanced international dishes based on locally sourced produce. Downstairs is a lounge bar. A tad more expensive than the rest, but a good option for giving yourself a treat. Opens at 7 p.m.

Book your Vueling to Tel Aviv and indulge in their culinary offerings.

Text and photos by Ferran Imedio of Gastronomistas.com

Bari is the cradle of Italy’s finest cuisine. The vera (true) cradle, that is. Any local will tell you so, as will any northerner, well aware of the excellence of the produce bathed by the Adriatic. If you think the food is good everywhere in Italy, wait till you sink your teeth into a dish in this southern enclave.

Street Food – From Focaccia to Sgagliozze

Bari’s old town is the best showcase for street food. Starting with the open-air Mercato del Pesce (Fish Market), where fishermen display their wares every day. Very fresh, clean and raw is how the locals purchase their fish, to eat it right there if necessary. With a Peroni birra in hand, of course. Your gaze will be riveted by the sea urchins, squid and octopus which they have just thrashed on the nearby jetty. The helpings are generous for the price.

Around the Basilica di San Nicola, the thing to do is order a focaccia in the historic Fiore bakery before strolling down the alleyways. Many of the local housewives make and then dry the various types of craft pasta in the open air. It’s a privilege to see them tirelessly kneading the pasta dough and shaping it.

In the so-called strada della pasta (street of pasta) you will come across the Caputo Rino family cooking anything that goes past. The family members are as genuine as the dishes they prepare. You will be entranced by their natural demeanour and will inevitably take a seat at one of their tables, as long as you have booked beforehand. If you want to visit the most amazing spots, allow yourself to be guided by the people at Velo Service, who can drive you from one place to another and save you from getting tired.

At dusk it is the turn of the sgagliozze street stalls to come alive. This fried polenta dish is also an icon of Bari, as are the panzerotti or fried sandwiches stuffed with local cheese and tomato. And, if you fancy hitting the town, then while away the wee hours in the bars and have one of the croissants served only at daybreak in the Piazza Mercantile before hitting the hay. Although, when it comes to good snacks and confectionery, try the ones at Martinucci, where the coffee is also great.

Indulge, too, in the ice-creams at Gentile, alongside the Norman-Swabian castle – they are fleeting but delicious. In season, have a go at the zeppole, based on a traditional Apulia confectionery, or the classic pistachio and Nutella.

And, be sure to stop at the grocer shops in the inner city where you will find local sausage. Go in and have a taste, and then take some with you as a souvenir.

Signature Cuisine From the Local Larder

Bari’s restaurants know how to get the most out of their local produce, without charging anything exorbitant. We can highly recommend Giampaolo for their lavish slew of seafood and fresh fish, as well as their pizzas and homemade desserts.

It’s worth getting out of the city to taste signature cuisine as a counterpoint to the traditional fare. The closest venue is Umami Ristorante, located in a country house near the main road. You will be pleasantly surprised at their wholesome offerings. A plethora of nicely presented local produce.

More remote and undoubtedly the boldest restaurant is Giuseppe Iannotti’s one-star Michelin Krèsios. You will be blown away by their tasting menu, an embellishment of the landscape and the Italian larder in a grand repertoire of sensations, paired with excellent items from their wine cellar. To top off the experience, stay over for the night in one of the rooms surrounded by vineyards.

Furtive Night Cuisine

At Bari’s only clandestine bar you can opt either for their cocktails or for a set of tapas based on snacks and savoury cupcakes. The bar counter is in one building, and the tables in the one next door. So you should check out in advance whether you can also have a bite to eat or have to make do with a drink. The venue is located in a secluded street near the harbour and its name – Speakeasy – is only uttered sotto voce – that is, in hushed tones.

Where to Sleep

Hotel Imago. A boutique hotel with just a few rooms set between the old quarter and the more modern districts. Apart from the optimum level of bustle, it is located in the heart of the shopping district and is very well connected. The rooms are spacious, the furniture functional, breakfast is continental and the wi-fi free-of-charge. 

Now that you know how to eat Bari up, book your Vueling and enjoy it!

Text and photos by Belén Parra for Gastronomistas

In Santander, we have met one of these persons who knows the town like the back of his hand. While he is talking about history and curiosities of Santander, he takes us through different bars and taverns in order to show us every specialty of each place.

At a dramatic pace we go from one tavern to other while he recommends us tasting the best bite of cod, or he warns how rude is the waiter in that place but let´s going in because they have the best seafood! Or “here there is the bestpiconcheese you can ever taste” There is no time to waste because in Santander there are many good taverns and he wants to show us all of them (or, at least, he will try)

The tavern tour is not quite expensive, because in Santander bites and plates are cheaper than in other northern towns. Bites cost between €1 and €2,50 and plates between €6 and €18 depending on what is ordered.

From beautiful Plaza Porticada (arcaded square), that hosted the International Festival of Santander for many years, to the popular neighborhood of Puertochico let´s walk around the excellent cuisine of Santander!

El Marucho
Calle Tetuán 21

Typical restaurant and bar without any comfort but where you can enjoy some exellent fish and seafood well-priced. Here we tasted some extraordianr rabas. During the high season it is not easy to find a place.

La Flor de Tetuán
Calle Tetuán 18

The specialty of this bar is fish and seafood. Prize is higher than in other local places but they serve the best grilled shrimp in Santander (plate costs about €12). Rabas, barnacles, spatter ... all the seafood is great!.

La Bodega de Santoña
Calle Peña Herbosa 21, enfrente del edificio del Gobierno Regional

Typical products from Cantabria like cheese and anchovies.

Casa Lita
Paseo de Pereda 37, al lado de Puerto chico

Great assortment of tapas and snacks from the more classic ones, like the bite of tortilla (Spanish omelette) to their own specialty Cantabrian bite. His chef, Joseba Guijarro, has one Michelin star and Casa Lita has awards for the quality of its bites.

Bodega Fuente Dé
Calle Peña Herbosa

Here we find picón cheese, an excellent blue cheese made in Cantabria. When you get into Bodega Fuente Dé, a hard mix of smells of cheese and pickles bits your nose. Few minutes later, this smell develops in an addictive fragance.They also serve tapas and typical dishes like cocido montañés, cocido lebaniego or picadillo de Potes.

El Solorzano
Calle Peña Herbosa 17

Vermouth with siphon. Great assortisment of tapas, mussels, rabas (squid rings), (tentacles), and many others.

El Diluvio
Calle General Mola 14

Just like Casa Lita, this place is a pioneer in Santander in serving elaborated tapas as País Vasco style. La Cigaleña
Daoiz y Velarde, 19

Un auténtico museo del vino en el que probar especialmente la tapa de bacalao rebozado. Riquísimas.

Tapas y Vinos
Calle Marcelino Sautuola

Rioja wine well-served and excellent tapas. The best one is the Spanish omelette with pork rinds.

El Tivoli
Calle Marcelino Sautuola

Exquisite squid rings and tentacles and very well served portions of ham.

La Conveniente
Calle de Gómez Oreña, 9

With to El Marucho, it is one of the most frequented by Santander visitors. Good plates of anchovies and fried bites served on big tables, that we ate all together listening a piano music.

El Cañadio
Calle de Gómez Oreña, 15

Excellent tapas cooked by one of the best chefs in the town. Here we ended the tapas tour because we ate too much not because there were no more bars or restaurants.

When we were returning home, he still recommended us to go to El Riojano (that looks like a museum with its painted by celebrities barrels), La Gloria, El Cantabria, Las Hijas de Florencio, La Malinche, Días de Sur, La Bodega de Jesús Quintanilla...

So you feel like visiting Santander, do you? Book your flights here!