Seville Between Rice Paddies and Salt Marshes
The Guadalquivir Salt Marshes
Stretching across a tract of some 2,000 km2 in the river estuary, between Seville, Huelva and Cádiz, they are part of the Doñana National Park, one of Europe’s largest wetlands. It is home to over 100 bird species which are endemic to the ecosystem and create a stunning spectacle whenever they take off into flight. A land where the birds can be imagined playing flamenco, and the red crabs clapping in unison.
The area provides ideal itineraries for what seasoned travellers like best – to wander off on their own. Literally getting lost here, however, is not that difficult, what with hundreds of unmarked footpaths winding between the rice fields.
Seville’s Amazon
Our itinerary starts along the course of the Guadalquivir and its countless effluents branching off near the river mouth, a picture postcard reminiscent of the Amazon. Located here is Isla Mayor, a town of just over 5,000 inhabitants. Surrounded by grasslands and crop fields, the town appears to turn into a genuine island when flooded. For hiking enthusiasts, there are also a number of routes through the town which can be done by bicycle.
Canoeing devotees should make a point of visiting the Brazo de los Jerónimos, a canal thick with reeds and rushes, which makes paddling along it a unique experience.
Going Back In Time
Crossing from one bank of the Guadalquivir to the other can only be done by taking the Coria del Río ferry. This delightful crossing spanning 300 metres in just 3 minutes is reminiscent of some fast-paced American movie set on the Mississippi or in the Everglades. The crossing takes place with passengers jostling for space with cars, tractors, fishermen, goats and farm motorcycles and is an experience in which time seemingly stands still.
A stunning sight to be had from the riverbank is when a merchant or cruise vessel sails inland with the high tide just a few metres away, bound for the port of Seville, or in the direction of the Atlantic. This astonishing, surreal image will remain in your mind’s eye forever.
Having reached Coria, the itinerary takes us downstream as far as Puebla del Río, along the Calle Arrozal, a land trail winding between poplars and carpeted in spring with grass and wild flowers. On this side of the river, you have the chance to visit such towns as Poblado de las Colinas or Utrera.
Finger-licking Cuisine
After a boat ride, it’s time to enjoy some molletes (muffins) ortoast with colorá lard to regain your strength. This is the most traditional breakfast in the area and any bar worth its salt will offer this spread based on pork lard sprinkled with speckles of meat condimented with garlic, red pepper, oregano, bay leaf and other spices. Even Paco de Lucía himself was bowled over by this delight on the senses, to which he dedicated a few notes and chords in some of his more celebrated melodies.
But, the culinary offerings of these Sevillian wetlands go much further still. Indeed, they are as varied as the landscape itself.
If you happen to be here in June, you can attend the Feria y Fiestas del Arroz y del Cangrejo (Fair and Festival of Rice and Crab), which lasts for five days and provides such typical dishes as tomato crab, crab tails with garlic or sauce, pepper shrimps, duck with rice and salted bleaks.
Restaurants like El Tejao, Sevruga or El Estero offer delicious dishes of crab, elvers, duck, giltheads or bass, served up with the inevitable rice, on the banks of the Guadalquivir.
To taste another essential dish in this area, pheasant with rice, head for the Arco de Colina restaurant – their quality and prices will leave you aghast.
Dare to venture into the Guadalquivir salt marshes? Check out your Vueling to Seville here.
Text by Laura Llamas for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
more info
Las mejor paella valenciana
No other Spanish dish has spread throughout the world like the Valencian paella. Along with toros and sangria, these are the very first words all tourist learn when they step on these lands. Likewise, when they get to Spain, they are flooded with posters of "typical spanish" or "spanish paella" to end up having any low quality mixture of rice or directly frozen, nothing to do with the original recipe.
No other course shows as much controversy in its preparation and ingredients required like it. As it happens with other traditional dishes such as the fabada in Asturiana or the Andalusian gazpacho, when the valencians speak about paella they light up watching the original recipe distorted.
Imagine that there is even a wikipaella to protect and defend the original paella where the basic rules of the Valencian paella are manifested. Such as:"The original paella has its origin in the Valencian community", "The best paellas are cooked with firewood and rice from the Valencian community" or "authentic paellas are made according the tradition of each area of the Valencian community ".
In general, there is consensus that the authentic Valencian paella uses other ingredients besides rice, the garrofón -big beans-, chicken, rabbit, ripe tomato, ferradura beans - flat green beans- olive oil, salt, water and saffron. And in some cases they also add snails, rosemary or paprika.
Some will say that the best paella is the one they eat at home - and they are probably right-but if you go to Valencia and want to eat some of the best paellas in the world, you can find some of the winners and finalists of the Sueca’s International Paella Competition , a prestigious international competition that rewards those cooks who prepare the best Valencian paella of the world.
Restaurant Ampar (third winner of the 2014 edition)
Navarro Reverter Avenue, 14, 46004 Valencia
The Ampar restaurant, located on the ground floor of the Hotel Hospes Palau de la Mar, in the historic center of Valencia, won the third prize in the 2014 Sueca’s International Paella Competition .The first prize went to the Miguel y Juani restaurant –from the chefs Julian Garcia and Mercedes Vacas – from Alcudia (Mallorca), where 35 of the best paella cooks were brought together.
Casa Picanterra, from Cullera (second prize of the 2013 edition)
Calle den picanterra nº3, 46400 Cullera
In 2013, the Picanterra chefs won the second prize of the contest.
El Redolí, from El Palmar (finalistas edición 2013)
Calle del Arzobispo Aliaga, 0, 46012 Palmar, Valencia
Other restaurants in Valencia where paella is prepared according to the original recipe:
La Pepica
Passeig de Neptú, 6, 46011 València
Casa Ripoll
Playa de la Malvarrosa, Paseo Marítimo, Módulo 7, 46011 València
Casa Roberto
Carrer del Mestre Gozalbo, 19, 46005 València
La Riuà
Carrer del Mar, 27, 46003 València
Casa Carmela
Calle Isabel de Villena, 155, 46011 València
Restaurante la Herradura
Paseo Marítimo, módulo 2 (Malvarrossa), 46011 Valencia
El Racó de la Paella
Carrer de Mossèn Rausell, 17, 46015 València
Picture from Jan Harenburg
Makes you want to go, right? Do it! Check out our prices here!
more infoGreeting the Spring with Prosecco
Prosecco is one of the most popular beverages in the Veneto region, where any excuse is good to uncork a bottle, taste it and toast with it. This wonderful sparkling white wine, which tends to range from dry to extra dry, is produced mainly in the province of Treviso, very near one of the region’s most touristic cities – Venice.
This kind of wine is made from the Glera grape variety, formerly known as Prosecco, hence the name. The largest and best known producers of Prosecco are the towns of Conegliano and Valdobbiadene, situated in the north of Treviso province.
Being white and sparkling, it often tends to be compared to champagne, for which it is used as a substitute in Italy. However, there are many differences between them. Champagne ferments in the bottle and can last a long time, while Prosecco should be drunk as soon as possible and preferably within two years. For those of you who like cocktails, the name Prosecco must surely ring a bell, as it is the main ingredient in a cocktail prepared with peach called Bellini which, incidentally, first saw the light in Venice.
The Prosecco Spring
For the last 21 years this fantastic sparkling wine has been celebrated in the province of Treviso in what is known as the Primavera del Prosecco (Prosecco Spring). This year the event will be extended until 12 June and is scheduled to be packed with activities, including visits to wine cellars, wine tasting sessions, contests involving dishes made with Prosecco, photo competitions and cultural tours of the province. The programme also features sporting events, notably cycling routes through the area and walks among the vineyards.
One of the major spin-off advantages of visiting Treviso for this long celebration is that the landscape will be carpeted in all its finery at the time, with the countryside taking on deep green hues and temperatures rising to pleasant levels – the perfect time for enjoying nature. The best views are to be had from Monte Grappa, well known for the battles that were fought there during both World Wars. It is also very popular among mountain bikers. Another lofty vantage point for soaking up the scenery is Monte Cesen. Hikers who enjoy wandering through forests should head for the Cansiglio, Italy’s second largest forest where red deer roam through their ideal habitat of beech and fir trees.
The area is also well suited to enthusiasts of agritourism, with a large number of dedicated facilities available. One such facility is La Dolza, located in the village of Follina, where visitors can immerse themselves in the old farming traditions of the area. Another is Le Noci, an old farmhouse where you can get back to nature and taste the local cuisine.
And, since you’re in Italy, local cuisine is of course one of the standout features in the area, with a large number of restaurants to choose from. We highly recommend Locanda Sandi, a restaurant associated with the Villa Sandi wine cellar and set in magical surroundings, and Ristorante Tipico Conegliano Per Di Perenzin, located in San Pietro di Feletto, where the speciality is cheeses.
Take your Vueling to Venice, tour this beautiful region and treat yourself to its stellar wine – Prosecco!
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by Primavera del Prosecco
more infoLondon Spanish Taste
World cuisines converge on London and Spain’s contribution is no exception. The story goes back a long way, to when a handful of immigrant chefs turned up with the intention of staying. That was just the beginning. Nowadays, Spanish cuisine is well established there. In great establishments and in the guise of some great names. Iberian presa and paleta, chorizo and pollo al chilindrón no longer require translation. Similarly, no introduction is required for such names as Juan Mari Arzak, Nacho Manzano, Eneko Atxa or Dabiz Muñoz. Not even Albert Adrià or the Roca brothers, even though their ventures in London have thus far proved fleeting – the former, in the Café Royal and the latter, on the first stop of their forthcoming tour. The present offers bites worthy of nostalgia-free refuge, while the future promises to be equally appetising.
Starred. Ametsa, managed by Juan Mari and Elena Arzak, is the first Spanish restaurant to be awarded a Michelin star in London, and just a few months after opening at that. They offer creative cuisine of Basque origin, in the form of a tapa with tea at four o’clock, as well as lunch for just a few pounds featuring a tasting menu with an immaculate parade of dishes. Their wine list shows special sensibilities for wines with soul and Spanish varieties.
With a “barra” (bar counter). Between Nieves Barragán’s different Barrafina – where there’s always a queue to try their regional Spanish tapas – and Donostia, with their pintxos and other nods to the finest Basque cuisine, you will be hard put to choose where to nibble on tasties at a reasonable price. However, if your thing is grills, go for Lurra.
With a history. Boasting four venues in London, and others still to come, Nacho Manzano’s Ibérica restaurants showcase the pull and the consistency of traditional Spanish cooking. Produce with designation of origin, generous helpings and an all-enveloping interior design are key to the success of a label which reaches as far afield as Manchester and Leeds.
Venerable. Boasting a team of chefs trained by the great names in Spanish haute cuisine, Alquimia is a must-visit restaurant for tasting fine rice in London. All of them, including the paellas, are served in portions for two, and there is also an assortment of other dishes on the menu.
Classy. There are very few places where cocktail culture carries as much weight as in London. Hence, Javier de las Muelas and his signature cocktails just had to set up in that city. Dry Martini London, at the Meliá White House - London, boasts an admirable nursery of mixologists who even create themed cocktails in the adjoining experimental kitchen.
In addition to these proposals, keep a look out for the long-awaited opening of the London StreetXo, while the restaurant Eneko Atxa is due to unveil in the One Aldwych Hotel in Convent Garden.
Overnights:
The Halkin By COMO. This hotel is synonymous with authenticity and distinction. Surrounded by embassies, with a siting as tranquil as it is near to the shopping bustle around Harrod’s, this hotel has spacious, sought-after rooms. Their luxury amenities and à la carte breakfast are also among their fortes.
IGH London Park Lane. If you want to sleep like a king, what better than to lodge in this former royal residence a stone’s throw away from Hyde Park? Their bar, restaurant and rooms have enviable views and noteworthy floral arrangements.
Meliã White House. Close to Soho and to major tourist attractions, the architecture of this hotel is an inducement on its own. The renovated rooms and the access to The Level Floor will enliven your stay all the more.
Text by Belén Parra of Gastronomistas
Images courtesy of the establishments
more info