The Jet Set’s Best Kept Secret
Granted, the seaboard of the Emerald Coast is a haven for anyone seeking idyllic beaches and crystal-clear turquoise waters. And one might be forgiven for forgetting to visit the town of Olbia. However, we are determined to sing the praises of this charming locality in the north of Sardinia, and of the Emerald Coast and environs. Touring here during the summer months is obviously a surefire bet, but we intend to persuade you to make an off-season visit, to discover the area’s true DNA, over and above any touristic conditioning.
Olbia
On the opposite side to its industrial precinct lies an attractive town with a historical centre dotted with shops, wine bars and café-packed squares. But, above all, the authenticity of Olbia stands in stark contrast to the more touristy areas on the north and south sides of the island.
Located on the Emerald Coast, Olbia is clearly evocative of a classical Sardinian picture postcard – white sandy beaches, wind-sculpted rocks projecting into the blue sea and luxury tourism galore, with yachts moored off the many coves along the coastline. However, inland Gallura seems to be in the antipodes, with its vineyards, pretty villages, mountains and mysterious nuragas – the most prolific megalithic construction on the island dating back prior to 1,000 BC. The northern Gallura coastline is rugged, its waters an exclusive sanctuary for dolphins, divers and windsurfers delighting in the marine reserve of La Maddalena. The Maddalena National Park includes an archipelago made up of seven islands, known as “the Seven Sisters”: La Maddalena – the largest of them – Caprera, Santo Stefano, Spargi, Budelli, Santa Maria and Razzoli. All the islands are granitic, set close to one another and surrounded by shallow water. This, added to the chromatic fluctuations of the sea and the marvel of nature here make for an incomparable setting well worth discovering. The town still has the appearance of a former fishing village and its sights include the town hall, the parish church of Santa Maria Maddalena, as well as restaurants and shops offering all kinds of products.
Emerald Coast
The Emerald Coast, which stretches for 55 km from Porto Rotondo to the Gulf of Arzachena, is the island’s most sought after tourist destination, a flashy preserve of luxury hotels, hidden beaches and pleasure harbours accessible to a chosen few. Ever since the Aga Khan acquired the coast for a sou in the 1960s, it has attracted the jet set from all over the world and, of course, a swarm of paparazzi, too. But, despite such trifles, the fact remains it is a well nigh perfect setting, with granite mountains bathed in emerald-green waters and a string of coves, each of them different yet perfect in its own right.
Its capital is Porto Cervo, an unusual seaside resort in that it resembles a mock-up, with Moorish-style buildings and squeaky-clean streets. Jaunty, rakish and worldly, this sophisticated spot is a veritable paradise. From June to September it is the hub of high-class partying, with tanned beauties posing in the Piazzetta and oil millionaires ambling about the big name stores. But, the coast is very quiet for the rest of the year and it is unlikely you will bump into anybody, apart from the odd bunch of locals.
A westbound excursion would be in order. You will come to Baia Sardinia, an expanse of exquisite sand, while in the south, near the Hotel Cala di Volpe, lie the spectacular beaches of Capriccioli and Spiaggia di Liscia Ruia. Hard by the Hotel Romazzino, the beach of Spiaggia del Principe fans out in the shape of a crescent moon, its white sand bathed by the deep blue sea. But, let’s press on with our dream. And, not all the region’s treasures are sited along the coast.
Not to be missed in the interior is the village of San Pantaleo. Further inland, the town of Arzachena reveals a number of interesting archaeological sites, notably Nuraghe di Albucciu, alongside the main road to Olbia, and Coddu Ecchju, one of the island’s most important tombe dei giganti – funerary monuments made up of communal burials dating from the Nuragic period (second millennium BC).
Eager to discover the marvels of Olbia and the Emerald Coast during the quieter months? Check out our flights here.
Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
Images by Gabriel Garcia Marengo
more infoLa Palma – A Boundless Source of Vitality
La Palma is well known for its pure, pristine and well preserved natural heritage. But, it doesn’t stop there. Over and above leisure activities, the island offers endless possibilities, making it an alluring destination. One of its main claims to fame is the beauty of its landscapes and its wealth of secluded spots for roaming about and communing totally with the above-mentioned pristine nature. Legion are the visitors who come to this wonderful island to get away from the stressful rat race of urban life. We also did it and our experience was very rewarding.
Return to the Source
The biodiversity of La Palma is virtually endless. When you first visit the island – nicknamed the Beautiful Island – the first thing that hits you is the explosion of scents, ranging from salty coastal aromas to the smell of fresh pine. Wafting across its fields are a variety of balmy aromas carried on the breeze. In short, you can enjoy a whole gamut of different fragrances, the fruit of plant evolution in isolation from continental development.
This land is actually home to several microclimates supporting a lush variety of plant species. One activity that struck us most forcefully during our visit was trekking. At times we felt we were steeped in a prehistoric environment, while at others the scenery was reminiscent of the tropics. La Palma is a rambler’s paradise, that’s for sure. The island is covered in an extensive network of trails. They are very well marked with coloured waymarkers, information panels and vertical signposts.
Practically all corners of the island can be reached via these footpaths, from the Volcano Route to the Coastal Path, which follows the perimeter of the island, and the Port-to-Port Route, which connects Santa Cruz de La Palma to Puerto de Tazacorte. Further information on the trails here.
These stunning walks enabled us to discover some of the indigenous species. We found it interesting that birds, reptiles and invertebrates make up the bulk of indigenous species. One noteworthy fact is that the fauna on La Palma is particularly rich in invertebrates. The reason for this is related to its insularity, which has led animal populations to be genetically isolated, facilitating the preservation of archaic species or the emergence of new species due to local evolution.
It’s a thrilling experience to wander through the island’s forests along the numerous trails and to search for indigenous species. One of them is the laurel pigeon, which can be found mainly in La Palma’s laurel forests, and Bolle's pigeon. The Tenerife speckled lizard is the most widespread of the reptiles and amphibians.
Walking Among Volcanoes
La Palma clearly offers a vast array of water activities. It is an idyll for enthusiasts of canoeing, diving and so on. But, the island hinterland also has its charm. You can do anything, from quadding and mountain biking to star-gazing and trekking. In the centre and south of the island, you can take the aforementioned Volcano Route, endowed with natural hiking trails along what used to be an important communications route between districts. This age-old footpath traverses the municipalities of El Paso, Mazo and Fuencaliente within the Cumbre Vieja Nature Reserve, and is impressively well appointed and signposted. The hike is tough, particularly because vegetation is rather sparse throughout. Be warned, too, that slopes can be very steep. Make sure you have the right gear and enough food and water to last for the duration of the trek, which takes about six and half hours, if you end at Los Canarios, or eight and a half if you complete the full trail, finishing at Faro de Fuencaliente.
The Volcano Route is a 30.9 kilometre hike, with an accumulated slope of 1,207 metres. The natural trail ranges from the minimum altitude of 725 metres at Fuencaliente to 1,932 metres on the summit crestline. Surfaces vary between forest trails, footpaths and asphalt. This trekking route enables you to see both island slopes and, if you’re lucky, to catch sight of such indigenous species as the rook and kestrel.
Come and recharge your batteries in La Palma. Check out our flights here.
Text and photos by La Palma Tourist Board
more info
Bordeaux in Seven Steps
Bordeaux can boast of having emerged from a sweet slumber, deservedly earning it the name of “the Sleeping Beauty”, later becoming the “Pearl of Aquitaine”. Here are the keys to enjoying a city that has become an irresistible tourist destination.
1. Taste Its Wines
Why deny it? Wine is the region’s economic driving force and the main reason for Bordeaux being famous all over the world. A trip to this city is clearly the perfect excuse for venturing into its extensive wine realm. The local tourist office has a roster of 60 different circuits for touring the viticultural region’s wineries that have edged their way onto the international scene. Needless to say, you don’t actually have to leave Bordeaux to discover its wines. All you need to do is head for one of the bars or bistros to find them. Here are our recommendations:
- The Bar à Vin du CIVB is a city classic and has an extensive Bordeaux wine list.
- For those who prefer to accompany their wine with some good cheese, Bistrot du Fromager is their best option.
- Those on a tasting tour who also want to take away the odd bottle as a keepsake should drop in on La Conserverie-Converserie.
- And, you can even sign up for a course in wine tasting at L’École du Vin.
2. Be Dazzled by the Largest Water Mirror in the World
The Place de la Bourse (Bourse Square). also known as the Place Royale, is undoubtedly one of the major landmarks in Bordeaux. It was designed by Jacques Ange Gabriel, royal architect to Louis XV, and built from 1730 to 1755.This square heralded the moment when the city broke out of its medieval walls, marking the start of its age of splendour. Rectangular in shape, one side opens onto the river Garonne, while the centre is taken up by the Fountain of The Three Graces. The main attraction, however, is Le Miroir d’Eau (Water Mirror), one of the largest in the world, with a surface area of 3.450 m2. The interplay of reflections is fascinating and highly photogenic – if you’re travelling with children, it is sure to delight them.
3. Enjoy Its Heritage
After Paris, Bordeaux is the city with the largest number of protected monuments in France. One example of this is its harbour, known as the Port of the Moon, which was listed as UNESCO World Heritage in 2007. Set on a meander of the river Garonne, its nickname is derived from its crescent-moon or croissant shape. Most of the buildings in the harbour and environs reflect the ideals of the Enlightenment. Be sure to stroll through its streets and admire their unique beauty.
4. Take a Boat Ride Along the River Garonne
The river Garonne has long been a lynchpin of the city’s development. Indeed, in the 18th century, it was one of the most important ports in Europe. A novel way of viewing the city of Bordeaux is by taking in the different angles of it afforded by the river. All you need to do is turn up at the Port of the Moon and go on one of the available cruises. Of the myriad options to choose from, we recommend one that includes wine tasting and snacks while soaking up the views.
5. Be Inspired by Museum Offerings
Art lovers have a must-visit in the shape of the Museum of Fine Arts, noteworthy for its fine collection of Dutch paintings. If you’re an enthusiast of the latest in art trends, the place to be is the CAPC Musée d’Art Contemporain, located in a former warehouse for colonial goods. The Museum of Decorative Arts, housed in the Hôtel Lalande, is a showcase of bourgeois life in the 18th and 19th century, as seen through their decorative objects – furniture, sculpture, engravings, ceramics, cutlery and glassware.
6. Enjoy Nature in One of the Parks
Bordeaux has many parks where you can get a breather. The best known is the Jardin Public (Public Garden), set in the heart of the city. It was opened in 1755 and styled along the lines of Versailles, but subsequently re-styled as an English garden. It features an old carousel which children will love.
7. Eat Oysters in the Market
If you happen to spend a weekend in Bordeaux, make sure you head for the Marche des Capucines. This magnificent market offers top-notch produce and has a wonderful atmosphere. There, you will find stalls where you can taste oysters, seafood and fresh fish.
Book your Vueling here and see all the hidden charm of Bordeaux for yourself.
Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
Images by SuperCar-RoadTrip.fr, Yann Chauvel, Bistro du Fromager
more infoMálaga in 7 Bites
Málaga has become the hot capital of culture, due to the recent opening of local branches of the Centre Pompidou and Saint Petersburg State Russian Museum Collection, added to other art successes with the Carmen Thyssen Museum, La Térmica, the Contemporary Art Centre (CAC) and the Picasso Museum (a fine retrospective of Louise Bourgeois is currently running until 27 September). The city centre’s beautiful pedestrian precinct – distributed around the stately Marqués de Larios street as its hub – it’s pleasant climate all year around, its beaches and its gastronomy make it the ideal getaway destination. Here are 7 essential eateries you should not miss in Málaga.
1. El Pimpi
You can’t leave Málaga without stopping off at this emblematic bar with its eminently Andalusian patios filled with potted carnations. One of its draws is the casks autographed by the most variegated celebrities who have dined there, from Antonio Gala to Miquel Barceló and Pablo Alborán. It has a huge terrace, too. The food is very good and prices average about €30.
2. Los Baños del Carmen
This former spa opposite the beach, once a luxury baths and now decadent, preserves a charm of its own. Refurbished as a restaurant boasting an enormous terrace with a stately air, this is the ideal spot for soaking up the twilight hours. The menu du jour costs €18 and the à la carte is very Malagueñan: tapas de la bahía (from the bay), fish on a skewer, charcoaled meat… and concerts are usually held on weekend afternoons.
3. Mercado Atarazanas (Atarazanas, 10)
This lovely market with wrought-iron ceilings, colourful stained glass and a marble, Mudéjar entrance features several stalls that sell their tapas on the street, with tall tables for eating standing up. Dogfish, octopus, razor clams, prawns, venus shells, Malagueñan mixed fry… fittingly all very fresh and at excellent prices (averaging €3.5 for a half-portion). Ideal for having an aperitif.
4. Andrés Maricuchi
El Pedregalejo beach offers one of Málaga’s most prized specialities – espetos or skewered fish, particularly the sardine variety. They are charcoaled on cute barbecue boats set in the sand. Prominent among the many beach bars with a carefree, happy ambience is the Maricuchi. Instead of a menu, they recite their dishes to you. Their sardines are crisp on the outside and tasty on the inside. Around €20.
5. Montana
If you are seeking a more curated cuisine in romantic surroundings, this town palace has a gastronomic restaurant upstairs and a tapas bar below, set in a gardened terrace. Some of the recommendations: scrambled egg with whitebait and peppers in yuzu sauce, ox carpaccio with olive oil ice-cream and wasabi cheese, and timbal (tartlet) with griddled bacon, field mushrooms, foie gras and balsamic reduction. Classicism and modernity in one. Average price – €45.
6. José Carlos García Restaurante
Haute cuisine for gourmets. The chef, Carlos García, was awarded the province’s first Michelin star for creative cuisine in his Café París restaurant. They recently opened another, more distinguished, upmarket restaurant in the harbour. It comprises an intimate dining area with just six tables, a kitchen enclosed in a cube in full view of diners, a priceless terrace and an events room. Tasting menu – €110.
7. KGB
The more daring foodies should head for Kisco García Bar, a trove of world cuisine. One of their hits is pure Asian and Andalusian fusion – the Vietnamese nam de pringá (€4). They also give a nod to Russia with their vodka omelette, and to other parts of the world, as with their Peking Express bread. They also feature an array of thoroughly southern dishes, like the Ángel León-style shrimp omelette. A curiosity – the premises once housed Dani García’s gastrobar and, as a lot of the latter’s guests still came to order their excellent ox-tail hamburger, the dish has been incorporated into the menu of the bar opposite, belonging to the same owner as KGB – Wendy Gambas.
Málaga seems to have just everything. A good climate, excellent museums and endless culinary delights to wit. Come and live it out for yourself. Check out our flights here.
Text by Isabel Loscertales (Gastronomistas)
Photos by Isabel Loscertales, Montana, José Carlos García Restaurante
more info