Tell Me Who You Take To Berlin
Oh, Berlin! How can it be at once traditional and modern, cosmopolitan and friendly, cool and… cheap? One thing is certain – the German capital has options to suit all pockets, and food for all palates. It matters not who you go with, as we shall now prove.
Weihenstephaner – Bavarian Food For Your Parents
“What! We’re off to Berlin? Wouldn’t it be better to visit Aunt Anselma in Cuenca, son?” That’s how your parents reacted – fearing something too modern – when you gifted them a flight to Berlin. Just as well you found a decent little hotel in downtown Mitte. The rest was a cinch – a tour of Museum Island, a stroll through the ever lively Oranienburger Strasse. Night was falling by the time you reached Hackescher Markt and then you knew for sure – Weihenstephaner. This Bavarian-style restaurant, with two endless floors and countless saloons, wooden tables and waiters dressed as you would imagine Germans to be attired on festive occasions, was the perfect option. The restaurant is named after the beer brewed in Weihenstephan Abbey since at least 1040. And, yes, you can quaff enormous glasses of any of the varieties, from the mildest blondes to the highest-proof dark brews. If you then add succulent roast pork in beer sauce, garnished with potato dumplings, or a scrumptious veal currywurst, you understand why tears were rolling down your father’s face. Sheer bliss! And, for less than 20 euros a head, unless you get carried away with the beer.
Hasir – The Original Kebab With Your Younger Bosom Brother
You had promised your brother a trip in September if he passed all his subjects. Well, you know… but the guy goes and passes everything! You asked him where he would like to go and he replied without hesitation, “Berlin”. He was probably gunning for the Berghain, likely the best techno club in the world, although that depends on the mood the bouncers are in. After sundown, it was up to you to show him the city and, as the lad was not yet worldly-wise, you thought of taking him to Kreuzberg, the Turkish quarter, which has now been taken over by the modern crowd. Halal butcher’s shops stand alongside second-hand clothing stores; corner shops with things Muslim opposite bio-organic cafés. In short, a culture clash which left him open-mouthed. When it came to feeding him you chose Hasir, a Turkish food classic, run by a bloke who is supposed to have invented the döner kebab. The eatery is decorated with a map of the Anatolian Peninsula, photos of customers and the odd Turkish kitsch motif. The food lived up to expectations – outrageously big helpings which are ideal for your brother, who was making his final growth spurt.
Berlin Street Food Market/The Circus – The Winning Combo for your Hipster Friend
Is there any more hipster destination than Berlin? That’s what you were thinking when you got two tickets for your best friend, that bearded skateboarding guy, even though he was already greying and had been collecting board games from the 80s. “I’ll have a tough time surprising him”, you thought as you printed your Vueling tickets. Thank goodness someone tipped you off that, the second weekend each month, the KulturBrauerei building, in the modern heart of Prenzlauer Berg itself, hosts an awesome Street Food Market. The Germanic ethos comes through in this event, organised to perfection, with long rows of dining tables, a DJ and such tempting offerings as Eastern baos, Cuban cuisine, vegan pies and… with no queues! All one hundred per cent conceived, designed and executed in food trucks. To crown it all, you took him to the Katz & Maus Tap Room, the bar at The Circus designer hostel, with their craft beer made right there, the barrels and metal stills on display to bear out its authenticity. And, at a good price! Great music, ranging from Indie to rock classics, rounding off a fine example of what any hotel bar ought to be. You achieved it – your friend was left stroking his beard, speechless, enjoying a delicious craft beer.
Lucky Leek – How to Win Your Vegan Girlfriend’s Heart
Granted, your first date was disastrous. You took her to have a hamburger and that was when she uttered those three words that changed everything forever: “I’m a vegan”. That’s why the thought of a trip to Berlin made her raise an eyebrow as if to say, “I don’t intend to eat a single sausage!” But, you were clever, since Berlin happens to be Europe’s vegetarian capital for 2016. What’s more, you bet a winner – you booked a table at Lucky Leek, a high-flying vegan restaurant recommend by the Michelin Guide. Their chef, Josita Hartanto, works magic on fruit and vegetables, with such dishes as aubergine bread with seitan and tofu and courgette salad, or tomato soup with vegetable dumplings. Think green… and you can’t go wrong!
Text and photos by Javier Casto of Gastronomistas
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Paradise in the Forests of Europe
Located in the heart of Europe, alongside the Rhine valley, this lush area of Germany, with its huge pine and fir forests (which give the landscape its characteristic dark colour), green valleys, lakes, waterfalls and charming villages is one of the most picturesque spots in Europe. The Black Forest is now highly coveted for its rural tourism, as it offers endless potential both as a winter destination and during the months of milder weather. It is advisable to hire a car to get around the region. The best option is to prepare your route, in line with your personal preferences, and stick to it, and it is worth seeking out the occasional higher spots to catch a glimpse of the beautiful scenery.
The North (Nordschwarzwald)
Among other things, here lies the source of the Danube (Donaueschingen), Europe’s longest river. Baden-Baden is a city of spa baths, a magnificent thermal resort with a stunning, luxurious mid-19th-century atmosphere. Apart from spa baths, it boasts casinos and venues for international congresses and meetings. Further north, in the upper Kinzig valley, lies Alpirsbach, known for its old brewery and its landmark Benedictine abbey, the oldest and most important Romanesque building in the Black Forest. Some 20 km north of it is the city of Freundenstadt, situated on the east side of a plateau. In this spa resort, with its priceless old quarter, it is well worth strolling around the market square, one of the largest in the district, flanked by buildings with lofty arches, a church and a fountain in the centre. Close by lies Oberkirch, with its old town featuring some historical buildings, Baroque churches and fragments of the old fortified walls. The ruins of Schauenburg Castle still stand on a hilltop.
The Middle Black Forest (Mittlerer Schwarzwald)
Prominent in the Middle Black Forest is Gengenbach, also located in the Kinzig valley. The town is virtually all built of timber and features narrow streets, beautifully restored houses and a charming medieval centre. Numerous rivers flow through this region, notably the Schutter, Acher, Rench and Kinzig, where all kinds of watersports are available. The city of Offenburg, located hard by the French city of Strasbourg, offers a number of attractions, including the Salmen inn, the Charterhouse, the Ritterhaus, a stately home dating from 1784 – currently a museum housing the city archives – the Jewish baths (Mikwe), thought to originate in medieval times and the Royal Palace (Königshof), designed by Michael Ludwig Rohrer.
The Great South
This is where the forest is most luxuriant, thronging with fir trees that blanket the area in dense foliage. Winter is ideal for sleigh-riding here, as in the town of Schluchsee, while the snow-bound villages like Hinterzarten, situated at an altitude of over 900 metres in the southern Black Forest, seem to be inviting us to take snapshots at dusk. The area is also criss-crossed by footpaths used for cross-country skiing. The village offers a wealth of activities for enthusiasts of winter sports. Freiburg is a striking Gothic city where you should make a point of strolling through its narrow streets and squares and visit the marketplace. It boasts an imposing cathedral in mixed Romanesque and Central-European Gothic style.
Cuisine
One of the best-known delicacies of German cuisine is the local Black Forest cake (schwarzwaldtorte),made of chocolate, cherries and cream. Also worth trying is the honey, which here has a fruity flavour. There are also fine wines, most of them white from the Baden region, although they are not listed by appellation d’origine as in Spain. The Rhine is fringed with small grape-growing districts, between the river and the Black Forest mountains. West of the Rhine valley lie the Vosges mountains which shelter the region from Atlantic rainfall. To the east, the Black Forest itself forms a barrier against cold continental winds. In short, a climate conducive to viticulture. The renowned riesling variety of wine hails from Baden-Baden, in the district of Ortenau, which has its vinicultural capital in Durbach. This is home to the Andreas Laible winery, featuring excellent riesling wines, and the Heinrich Männhle winery, which specialises in red wine of the spätburgunder variety. Local fare includes a wealth of regional dishes associated with a particular wine, such as zwiebelkuchen (onion pie), typically accompanied with a young wine known as federweisser.
Don’t miss the chance to see it all! Check out our prices here!
Text by Isabel y Luis Comunicación
Photos by TI Schluchsee, Vogtsburg Tourist Board, TI Seebach / Elmar largo Bacher, Tourist-Info Schluchsee, Gengenbach Culture and Germany Tourism. Schwarzwald Tourismus
more infoZürich – A Box Filled With Chocolates
“It turns out that in 1917, Einstein, Lenin and Joyce coincided in Zürich.There, Einstein lectured at the ETH, Lenin busied himself preparing the Russian revolution, while Joyce wrote Ulysses. The city is growing on me every day.”
These lines were posted in the Facebook profile of a Spanish friend living in Switzerland’s largest city. She also writes, and is somewhat revolutionary. She doesn’t lecture, that we know of, but it’s early days still. What is such a Mediterranean girl doing in a place like that? The moment we arrived there we had our answer. You can enjoy the vibrant cultural scene, its restaurants, its lake, the river Limmat, its parks, the silence and its modest size as cities go, meaning you can cross it by tram, or be tempted to cycle or walk around it.
Did you know that what the Swiss miss most when they travel is bread? That the owner of the legendary Café Odeon was able to build it thanks to the money he won on the Spanish lottery? That muesli was invented by the physician, Maximilian Bircher-Benner, from Zürich University, and that the historic Opfelchammer restaurant, a favourite of the local novelist, Gottfried Keller, allow you to carve your name on the beams if you drink enough wine? You imagine there is a luxurious city awaiting you, having forgotten that the Protestant Reformation started precisely here 500 years ago and that all ostentation was banned. Like filled chocolates, Zürich holds out surprises. You never know what you’re likely to come across.
Zürichis not an economical destination, but there are ways of reining in your expenditure. Before setting out to discover the city, buy a ZürichCARD. It permits you to catch the train from the airport to the city, where you can take all the tram lines and gain free (or discounted) entry to over 90 establishments.
If you fancy dining at a traditional – yet modern – spot, make sure you head for Haus Hiltl, Europe’s longest surviving vegetarian restaurant, dating from 1898. It offers a buffet with a choice of over 100 specialities – you pay according to how much you fill your plate – in addition to a bookshop, store, culinary studio and bar lounge.
If you’re into the eclectic, you should drop in on Les Halles, an erstwhile warehouse which doubles as a restaurant and market and is famous for its moules frites (mussels with fries). There, you can also buy and eat sausage, cheeses, wines and other delicacies from the old Europe.
If you prefer to dine in a formal atmosphere, make your way to La Salle. They serve a fine steak tartare, various fresh pasta dishes and a classic, homemade meat pie with red wine and mashed potato sauce which you really must try.
You can while your way into the night at numerous bars and clubs, such as the Nietturm Bar, located on the top floor above La Salle. This stylish locale serves the Hugo cocktail (prosecco, elderflower syrup, sparkling water, mint, lime and ice), or you could order a glass of local Zürich wine while taking in the breathtaking views over the city.
If the weather turns nasty or you’re numbed by the cold, go on a cruise around Lake Zurich. And, while you’re at it, enjoy a Swiss brunch – with cheese, bread, salmon, jam, fruit and pastries – while vineyards and fairytale houses parade before your eyes as you drift soothingly along. The brunch-cruise only operates on Sundays and you must book beforehand through Zürichsee Schifffahrt.
If, on the contrary, what you fancy is hoofing it as much as you can, go for their street food. You can wolf down the sausages at Sternen Grill, a hot soup at La Zoupa and marroni (roast chestnuts) at the street stalls. If your stay takes in more than just the weekend, make sure you try their looped pretzels and the other bäckerei (bakery) specialities in season at Vohdin (Oberdorfstrasse, 12), a shop front that has been open since 1626.
If you can afford it, take up lodgings on the 10th floor of the Sheraton Zürich Hotel, located in Zürich–West, the in district. The rooms are spacious, bright and comfortable; wifi is free-of-charge and there are two culinary options – the Route Twenty-Six restaurant (from the 26 Swiss cantons), featuring sumptuous breakfast buffets, and the Café & Bar Nuovo,ideal for afternoon coffee or a nighttime Qüollfrisch naturtrüb beer.
If you fancy bringing back a genuine souvenir in your suitcase, head for a local supermarket and get yourself a mini fondue of Gerber cheese and a bag of Frey chocolates, two historic brands that will sit sweet on the palate. Although – be warned – it will never be the same as having a fondue at Adler’s Swiss Chuchi or hot chocolate at Péclard.
Make haste and savour the Swiss delights of Zürich! Check out our flights here.
Text by Carme Gasull (Gastronomistas)
Photos by Mireia Aranda and Zurich Tourism
The South of Minorca at a Leisurely Pace
Minorca is one of the most fascinating islands in the Mediterranean. Its peculiar geological structure makes it an exceptional enclave. It also supports numerous endemic species; that is, species exclusive to the island, or else shared only by neighbouring islands such as Majorca, Corsica or Sardinia. The blend of both common and differentiating traits endows this land with an especially attractive natural heritage, which saw intense human development as far back as 4,000 years ago. Indeed, it was the first of the Balearic islands to be inhabited. Its earliest settlers came not from the Iberian peninsula but from other parts of the Mediterranean, including Phoenicians, Romans, Carthaginians and, later, Turks.
When it comes to slow tourism, three distinct parts of the island can be identified – the east, west and south. As the possibilities are endless, we are going to focus on the south and, in particular, the south-west of the island, centred around Cala Galdana as the main hub.
Beaches to Levitate on
Cala Galdana is also known as Cala Santa Galdana or Cala Santagaldana. It lies seven kilometres from Ferreries, between Morro de Ponent and Penyal Vermell, and alongside the development of the same name, flanked by the vantage points of des Riu and sa Punta which afford excellent panoramas. The place-name derives from the Arabic Guad al-Ana. This beach is one of the best known and most popular destinations in Minorca, as well as one of the most beautiful. It constitutes an isolated tourist resort surrounded by large swathes of practically virgin natural terrain. It is sited at a point on the coastline where two streams, the Algendar and the Algendaret, meet the sea where the latter forms an inlet, giving rise to a wetland, fitted with a jetty, featuring a wealth of animal and birdlife, notably peregrine falcons, frogs, toads, shrews and bats.
Cala Galdana offers countless options for relaxing, geared to all types of visitors. Minorca is well-known for being an ideal destination for vacationing families, as well as for those seeking solitude on a tranquil island, and children do not always fit the ambience of peace and quiet. Hence the existence of “adult hotels”, like the Hotel Audax. We tried it out and were treated to an experience of total relaxation, spa and library included. The hotel also offers wholesome food in its restaurants: Oliva, a gastronomic space with live cooking, a fusion of the best of Italian pasta dishes with Minorcan cuisine, and Galdana – slow cooking. In addition, there they manage all kinds of activities for you through Sports & Nature. Mateo, who is in charge of these services, is an enthusiast of nature activities and knows the island like the back of his hand.
Western Beaches
If we opt to do the western beaches, just a half-an-hour’s walk from there takes us to Cala Macarelleta. It is advisable to go there off season, which peaks from 15 June to 15 September, as it can be jam-packed during the high season. Spring is the best time to enjoy it. It breathes a special atmosphere, especially when fairly deserted. The route to this cove runs along the Camí de Cavalls, which skirts the whole island perimeter and is 184 km long. In bygone times, its function was to connect the island’s various defence towers. The Macarelleta cove is accessed via a timber staircase with 216 steps, spanning a drop of 150 metres. The walk is well worth doing as this is certainly the island’s most widely photographed cove. Its waters combine shades of blue, green and turquoise, while on land the chromatic scale ranges from greens to browns. If you head about two and a half kilometres further afield you come to Cala en Turqueta, a cove set in a stunning landscape. And, if you want to continue enjoying this pleasant walk along the Camí de Cavalls, you will reach Cala des Talaier (some 7 km from Cala Galdana) and Son Saura (at the 10-km mark). In addition to this coastal path, there are also trails winding their way inland along the island’s various gullies. Minorca has three rivers and their gulleys stay green all year around. If you can, it is worth going on a hike to d’Algendar to visit its caves.
Sea and Tranquility
Another way of finding peace and quiet is to enjoy the toing-and-froing of the waves on a boat. You can hire one, which is a good way of interacting with the island’s inhabitants, or take a ride on a pleasure boat. One of the best experiences, however, is to go kayaking, which you can do alone or with a guide. We recommend the latter option, as it has the advantage that you also get descriptions and recommendations. One of the most popular pursuits here is to witness the sun setting in the open sea. This is always best done in summer, although in winter it is also feasible, as long as you don a wetsuit.
Minorca offers a good variety of options for enjoying a holiday at a slow pace. Check out our flights here.
Text and images by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación
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