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7 Bars For Tuscan Wine Tasting in Florence

If you are wine lovers, Florence is your destination. And, not only because it is the capital of Italy’s Tuscany region, with one of the most celebrated DOs in the world and their flagship chianti, but because it is packed with wine bars where you can indulge in culinary specialities paired with a huge variety of great wines that can be ordered by the glass. What a treat and, on a reasonable budget – here you will taste and discover the wine treasures of the region and the country.

La Volpi e l’Uva

This tiny wine bar, owned by three Florentines, is a veritable benchmark, ideal for those wishing to avoid the more popular establishments. At the bar counter or on their magnificent terrace, a stone’s throw from the emblematic Ponte Vecchio, you can savour wine by the glass, with over 45 different signature Italian reds and French whites from small local wineries, most of them biodynamic and organic. A luxury which costs from €4.5 to €9 and includes pairings with tasting dishes from a menu of top-quality specialties from the Florence area ­–cured meat (mortadella, salami, ham), cheese served on delicious, dry schiacciata bread and crostini (toast). And, if you fall for any particular wine, you’ve hit the jackpot, as La Volpa et L’Uva is also a wine shop. You can take advice from Ricardo, one of the very friendly owners, who will passionately recommend the ideal bottle from over 1,000 signature wines lining the walls.

Fuori Porta

This huge yet congenial wine bar and restaurant, located next to the San Miniato Gate, is descended upon every day by crowds of loyal regulars. This is a must-visit tasting venue when you’re in Florence. Here you can forget about pizza and pasta; the cuisine is simple but delicious, based on gourmet sandwiches, bruschettas (toasted bread rubbed with garlic and oil), meat, salads, pinchos and cheese-and-cured meat boards. Wine is the undisputed leading light of this restaurant, with a choice of over 500 wines to enjoy by the glass – quite a sizeable figure! You will soon discover the variety of Tuscan wines, as well as the other Italian DOs. And, as if that weren’t enough, they renew their menu about five times a year, and you can also buy takeaway wine by the bottle – a must-have souvenir.

Pitti Gola e Cantina

If you are bold enough to ask for the wine list, you will be amazed, as it can hardly fit on the table. This establishment is essential if you think of yourself as a genuine wine lover as it holds veritable gems in its cellar, including labels that go back to 1950! Prices can sting a little, though (from €6.60 a glass), but it is worthwhile if you want to discover the grands crus of Tuscany and Piedmont in particular, and the rest of the peninsula in general, noteworthy for its traditional wines based on local vinestocks. The staff are young and highly motivated and are bound to recommend some superb tasting. They offer an exquisite menu of Italian delicacies to go with it – pasta, lasagna, select meats… You will also be able to soak up the atmosphere while seated on their terrace, located on the majestic Piazza Pitti.

Fratelli Zanobini

A small shop in the heart of the San Lorenzo district which carries both Tuscan wines (accounting for half their stock) and Italian varieties in general, with nearly 500 different labels, in addition to liqueurs and sparkling wines. The store has been open for 44 years and has accrued viticultural knowledge from one generation to the next. Tastings can be ordered at the small tasting counter, which thousands of wine lovers have already homed in on. But, there is not much to nibble on, so best to go there on a full stomach. They also have six house wines.

Casa del vino

Nothing seems to have changed in this wine house since it first opened around the year 1900. In fact, seen from the outside, it actually looks more like an antiques shop, with its marble bar counter, glass cabinets and wooden furniture plastered with black-and-white photos and the odd wooden wine crate covered in dust. The establishment has remained in the same family throughout and decribes itself as a tavern where you can have a glass of red wine from Tuscany, Piedmont or Sicily standing up at any time of the day, while getting stuck into some fresh panini and cured meat. They are also known for stocking some of the best champagnes in town.

Bevo Vino

It has very cosy decor, with a few tables and very young, cool customers. Here, bon vivants can choose from 30 Italian wines served by the glass while munching on some excellent panini or the house menu, made up of meat and pasta dishes crafted from the purest Italian recipe book. Drinks are served generously by a very obliging staff. Average price around €12 for a drink and something to eat, or just €5 if you’ve only turned up for a toast. Via San Niccolò 59R, Monday to Sunday, from 12 a.m. to 1 a.m.

Coquinarius

Right next door to the stunning Duomo, Coquinarius is the closest you’ll get to a bistro. The front is a wine bar, with a restaurant at the back. The aroma wafting out of the kitchen is mouth-watering. Here you can savour an in-season menu, featuring bruschettas,meat and fish dishes as the highlights. Special mention goes to the salads, with unusual ingredients yet exquisite; notably, dried tomatoes, aubergines, sunflower seeds, courgette flowers and pear. This elegant wine bar offers a large variety of mostly Italian wines, as well as the odd label from more unique sources – Argentina, Austria, Chile or California. Wine by the glass or bottle.

Book your Vueling to Florence and get ready to taste the wines of Tuscany.

Text and photos by Laia Zieger of Gastronomistas.com

 

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Punta de Teno Virgin Tenerife

The wildest, most secluded corner in Tenerife, in the north-west tip of the island, is the perfect idyll for a few days’ enjoyment of revitalising contact with nature – cycling excursions on the slopes of Teide, hiking through the humid laurel forests, canoeing under the huge sea cliffs… all this without having to leave this remote and amazing kind of “island within an island”. It even has its own microclimate, in an area which was practically inaccessible until just a few years ago. Here, far from the bustle of everyday life, any outing along the over one hundred kilometres of signposted trails reawakens one’s appetite for the fruit and recipes of a rich, fertile land which treats visitors to fresh scenery at every turn.

Mountain Biking – Pedalling On the Slopes of Mt Teide

The Corona Forestal Nature Park which, as its name suggests, forms a complete ring around the Teide National Park, offers four approved mountain-bike routes. The longest trail is the Ruta Norte (North Route), which covers 85 km on the main track, with another 52 km along side tracks.

Our first cyclotouristic proposal takes in one of its stretches but, in order to get the most out of the experience, the best option is to hire a local guide who will provide you with latest-generation bikes and escort you along the whole route, while pointing out details of the peculiarities of the delicate ecosystems in this rugged, vertical mountain terrain of the Teno massif. He will pick you up at your hotel in a flashy van, driving you up to an altitude of 1,600 metres on the slopes of Mt Teide, so that most of the trail will be downhill.

Forests and Volcanoes

In the vicinity of Montaña del Cascajo – a volcano, needless to say – the scenery is absolutely breathtaking. Hieratic fields of red lava are juxtaposed with lush forests of Canary Island pine, their rough bark bearing tell-tale signs of having suffered the scourges of the odd forest fire. According to Iván Méndez, our guide, these pines are “natural survivors”, as this indigenous variety is fire-resistant.

With hardly any effort we enter the Chinyero Special Nature Reserve, a volcano of black earth which last erupted in 1909, located alongside another volcano which two centuries earlier swept away most of the port of Garachico, a small town situated 8 kilometres away.

A bit further down we enter the underworld of Macaronesic laurisilva, shrouded in a dense cloak of mist. We pedal through a gloomy, watery universe characterised by vegetation similar to what covered much of the earth 65 million years ago, which nowadays is found in but very few isolated spots.

After several forested kilometres we return to civilisation to refuel in a tavern with views where they serve up roast cheese with red mojo and palm syrup, codfish with sweet potato and roast goat meat… delicious!

We reach our hotel with a sweet tang on the palate and not at all tired. We have cycled just 42 km, with a drop of 1,800 metres and a climb of only 200 metres, yet feeling as if we had just discovered a piece of nature brimming with allure. Never before had we seen, felt and breathed in so many different landscapes and microclimates in so few kilometres.

Walking Expeditions – Endless Trails

Thanks to a vast network of signposted footpaths, the Teno Rural Park offers myriad itineraries of all ratings.

If you stay at Buenavista, for instance, there is a nearby access route to the spectacular, heady Bujamé Gorge, namely the PR-TF 58 Camino del Risco, which rises along an old path towards the green meadows of Teno Alto and the hamlet of Los Bailaderos, where you can taste one of the best craft cream cheeses in all of the Canary Islands. The route leads between Roque de Marrubio and Roque de la Cruz, and past the remains of an ancienttagoror,a meeting place for community leaders in the period of the Guanches. Oddly enough, this steep trail is known locally as “the descent of the dead” as, in bygone times and up until the 1970s, it was used to carry the deceased down to Buenavista from Teno Alto, where there is no cemetery. Another tell-tale sign is the Cueva de los Ataúdes (Cave of the Coffins), where you can still see two humble communal caskets – one for adults and another for children – once used for the arduous procession.

Owing to the rugged terrain of the Teno massif, virtually all routes are interconnected, so you can combine different stretches of them to create a personalised itinerary, depending on the time you have available or how far you care to hike. For instance, once in Los Bailaderos, you can continue eastwards along the PR-TF 57 Callejón de Teno as far as Cuevas del Palmar, or else westwards along the PR-TF 51 up to the Punta de Teno lighthouse. It is here, on the westernmost edge of the island, that you can witness an unforgettable sunset, with the cliffs known as Los Gigantes basking in the golden sun.

Canoeing Among Giants

In the time of the Guanches, these 600-metre-high basalt rock faces were known ominously as the “Muralla del Infierno” (Wall of Hell). Today they are called the “Acantilados de Los Gigantes” (Cliffs of the Giants) and the area is preserved as a veritable sanctuary on account of its inaccessibility. It is also the perfect spot for spending the day kayaking, as this stretch of water is permanently sheltered from the prevailing trade winds by the cliff faces, which provide a natural barrier, so that the sea is always calm.

The group outing starts in the Los Gigantes marina. It lasts for two hours and is guided by instructors, who comment on the peculiarities of this amazing spot. The excursion is suitable for people of all ages and no prior experience is required. What’s more, the party is escorted by a tracking boat which is always on hand to provide assistance in the event of any mishap. The kayaks are single- and two-seater beginner canoes which are totally stable and sit-on-top. Details and bookings: Teno Activo.

Trekking, Kayaking & Snorkeling in Crystal-Clear Water

El Eco bay is the ideal spot for swimming and exploring the seabed by skin diving in the crystal-clear water. At the foot of the cliffs, the maximum depth is just 30 metres. The same canoe or kayak excursion can start at Masca beach after walking the 5 kilometres down the gulley of the same name, then paddling back on the return journey as far as Los Gigantes after having visited Barranco Seco bay.

Whale Spotting

Dolphins and even whales can be spotted off the Los Gigantes coast, but in deeper waters. After the kayak outing, the best thing is to board a 36-seater boat which leaves from the same marina. The ride lasts two hours and, on the return trip, the boat weighs anchor for 15 minutes in Masca bay, allowing guests to have their last swim at the foot of the cliffs.

A Chill-out Hotel

The Melià Hacienda del Conde Resort Hotel is also located in this secluded enclave in the north-west of Tenerife. Affording splendid views over the ocean, it is the perfect base camp for spending an active and at once relaxing holiday in the Teno area. Their spacious rooms, swimming pools, spa, refined culinary offerings and adult-only status make this a favourite destination among visitors seeking peace and quiet.

Book your Vueling to Tenerife and venture out across the Teno volcanic massif.

Text by Sergio Fernández Tolosa of Con un par de ruedas

Photos by Sergio Fernández Tolosa and Teno Activo

 

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6 ways to get off the beaten track on your next visit to Bilbao

After two decades of ripping up the urban rulebook, Bilbao continues to fast forward into the future with new projects like the colossal Zorrotzaurre island development. The city retains its traditional character, however, in the Old Town and its famous pintxo routes (the Basque spin on tapas). Check out our list of the 6 most offbeat things to do on your next visit to Bilbao.

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Plan a romantic and gastronomic getaway in Paris

Renowned as the city of love, Paris is widely regarded to be one of the most romantic cities in the world. The charms of the River Seine and its bridges, the majestic Notre Dame cathedral, the beauty of the Champs-Élysées, the iconic Eiffel Tower and the magic of Sacré Coeur are just some of the marvels that have earned the city its fame. And to end your visit, nothing beats an intimate dinner for two at one of the romantic Parisian restaurants recommended here.

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