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Les Calanques A Jewel on the Cusp of Marseille

The Marseillais are fortunate. Although they inhabit the second most populated city in France – after Paris – with all that entails, right on their doorstep they have a haven of peace in the form of a nature reserve which can be negotiated on foot or by kayak, and where they can swim and splash about in summer. Living with the Mediterranean lapping at your feet does have its advantages.

The spot we are referring to and which we recommend touring and experiencing first-hand is the magnificent Parc national des Calanques. This nature reserve starts at the port of Pointe Rouge, south of Marseille, and stretches for 20 kilometres along the Mediterranean coast, up to the small fishing port of Cassis. But, what secret does this area hold in store?

Les Calanques is an area of granite and limestone buttresses jutting into the sea and forming a winding coastline with deep inlets and numerous cliffs, between which nestle various coves or calanques, which the reserve takes its name from. Some of these coves can only be reached by sea. The turquoise blue of the sea strikes a marked contrast with the arid terrain, with little (stunted) or no vegetation, the result of the warm Mediterranean climate and the properties of the local soil.

Visitors to Les Calanques will enter a magnificent area, conducive to hiking in search of the picturesque coves. They will also find the perfect spot for rock climbing as it is teeming with cliff faces where the more adventurous can try out their skills on the sheer walls.

Things get even more interesting, as this nature reserve also extends out to sea, where the biodiversity lies in its waters, featuring a large number of different species. It is thus a very attractive destination for divers, too.

What to Bear In Mind When Visiting

When planning an excursion to Les Calanques, take into consideration that the area is protected, which means access is limited at different stages in the year. Summer is when it is at its most vulnerable, owing to fire hazards, so that motor vehicles are banned from the area in this season and even access on foot is controlled. So, if you are unable to visit the park in spring or autumn, the best time of year to venture into it, take into account that you have to pay to park your car and then walk in the summer sun. Remember to use sturdy footwear and to take a hat and a good water supply.

Of the many coves you will come across in this stretch of coastline, the most popular ones are Calanque de Port-Miou, Port-Pin, the Calanque d’En-Vau and Morgiou. These are closest to the town of Cassis and can be reached in the course of a pleasant walk along the coast. The larger Calanque de Sormiou is also among the most popular coves.

Be sure to also make a point of visiting Cassis and its picturesque harbour, characterised by its fishing boats and colourful houses. Painters of the calibre of Signac and Derain were understandably captivated by the light and colour of this town.

Don’t miss your own adventure to this magnificent corner of the Mediterranean – book your Vueling to Marseille here.

 

Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Images by Frédérique Voisin-Demery, Amanda Snyder, Thomas Barthelet, maarjaara

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LouvainYoungFlemish

Louvain, regarded as the Flemish Salamanca for its large student population during the academic year, is the ideal destination to head for on a getaway to Brussels as it is less than half an hour’s train ride away.

Louvain and its University

The university is a major feature of Louvain (Leuven, in Flemish). Not only is it a historic institution – it was founded in 1425 – but an international student magnet as it attracts large numbers of foreign Erasmus scholarship holders each year. Many of these will be unaware that Erasmus of Rotterdam, after whom the exchange programme of almost thirty years’ standing is named, actually used to lecture at Louvain University.

No wonder, then, that the population of this Flemish city increases by around 20,000 youngsters at the start of each academic year. They study during the day and hit the town by night, turning Louvain into one of the most fun spots in Europe. Come heat or cold, many of these students congregate in the Oude Markt, a square packed with cafés, pubs and restaurants, compounding what is considered to be Europe’s longest bar counter.

In the morning, many of these students make up for the previous night’s debauchery in the library, located in the Monseigneur Ladeuzeplein square. The library building, formerly sited on the Naamsestraat, was destroyed in World War I and rebuilt with Belgian and American funding. The square is embellished by a striking landmark – a beetle pierced by a huge, three-meter-high needle. It was unveiled in 2005 to mark the 575th anniversary of the University.

Louvain’s Historic City Centre

Some of the most emblematic buildings in Louvain, the capital of Flemish-Brabant province, are located in the Grote Markt or Main Square. The most remarkable landmark is the City Hall, an example of the mid-15th-century Brabantine Gothic, with over 230 small sculptures adorning the facade. Noteworthy, too, is St Peter’s Church with its unfinished, low belltower and the Neoclassical building known as the Round Table (Tafelrond), currently the site of the National Bank. Starting from the Grote Markt, if you head along Bondgenotenlaan street, you come to Martelarenplein (Martyrs’ Square) with its marked Spanish air, redesigned as it was by the architect, Manuel de Solà-Morales, between 1998 and 2004.

Like the city of Mechelen, Louvain has a magnificent, 12th-century Grand Béguinage. This secluded precinct is just a fifteen minute walk from the centre and once housed the Beguines, a female religious community that led an austere life. Covering an area of six hectares, the Grand Béguinage is now the residence of many exchange professors and Erasmus students. Bear in mind that Flemish beguinages are listed as World Heritage Sites by UNESCO.

Other places of interest include St Gertrude’s Abbey, the Church of St Michael – a masterpiece of the Flemish Baroque – and the statue of Fons Sapientiae (Source of Wisdom), by the Belgian artist, Jef Claerhout, which is decked out in different costumes at various times of the year.

Gastronomy and Beer in Louvain

Beer is a must in Louvain, and several beer routes have been set up, including a tour of the Domus brewery and that of Stella Artois, the best known brand in the city. Several restaurants in town offer menus paired with local beer, notably Zarza and EssenCiel, the latter situated on the crowded Muntstraat.

Now that you know how to find your way around Louvain, get your Vueling to Brussels and enjoy the university city!

 

Text by María Jesús Torné from tusdestinos.net

Images by Toerisme Leuven, Frédéric Van Hoof, milo-profi.be

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The Historical Cafés of Trieste

If you travel to Trieste, don’t fail to visit its historical cafés. Part of their patina is due to their connection with literary figures – writers such as Svevo, Saba, Stendhal and Joyce frequented these establishments in search of conversation, inspiration and rest.

While these cafés enjoyed their moment of splendour in the late-19th and early-20th century, they have endured to the present, albeit with some changes, transporting their customers back to a bygone age. Visitors can admire their wooden furnishings, framed in tall architectural devices, the classic marble tables and an atmosphere redolent with the aroma of coffee.

Here are some of the standout historical cafés of Trieste:

Caffè Tommaseo (Piazza Tommaseo, 4/c)

Opened in 1830 by the Paduan, Tommaso Marcato, this is Trieste’s oldest café. It was decorated by the painter, Gatteri, who among other things commissioned the mirrors to be brought from Belgium. It was once a meeting place of merchants and writers and the first establishment in the city to serve ice-cream. It also used to host art exhibitions and concerts, a tradition still kept alive on its premises.

Caffè degli Specchi (Piazza Unità d’Italia, 7)

Founded in 1839 by the Greek, Nicolò Priovolo, it is located in one of the most privileged spots in Trieste, the Piazza Unità d’Italia, on the ground floor of the Stratti building. When you get to this café, you are hard put to decide where to sit – the interior is still tinged with the charm of its glorious past, while the terrace affords lovely views of the square and the sea. Curiously, during World War II it was used to garrison troops, and also as a warehouse and even a stable.

Caffè Tergesteo (Piazza della Borsa, 15)

Housed in the shopping arcade of the Tergesteo Palace, the former seat of Trieste’s stock exchange, it is famed for its stained-glass windows depicting scenes from the city’s history. It was once frequented during the day by businessmen who attended the stock exchange, and by night by the cultural elite.

Caffè San Marco (Via Battisti, 18)

The early years of this café were troubled ones. Having opened in 1914, the following year it was closed down and destroyed by Austro-Hungarian troops for having been the meeting place for the irredentists. It was rebuilt in the twenties, when its regular clientele featured such literary figures as Saba, Svevo and Giotti. It is now a café, cultural centre and library and still breathes the atmosphere of another age.

Caffè Torinese (Corso Italia, 2)

The first thing that strikes one when entering this bar, opened in 1915, is its Art Nouveau decoration, the work of the Trieste cabinet-maker, Debelli. Another stunning feature is the spectacular crystal chandelier that lights its comfortable interior. The current owners have managed to endow the locale with a cool, modern air in the guise of its cocktails and its wine list, which includes local wines.

How to Order a Coffee in Trieste

While this might sound outlandish, Trieste has its own names for different types of coffee and you should bear this in mind unless you want to end up gawking at the waiter who has just served up your order. An expresso is called a nero, while a capuccino is known as caffè latte. If you want a macchiato, you have to ask for a capo (capuccino) and, if you’d like your coffee served in a glass, you should specify “in a b”, as “b” is the abbreviation for glass (bicchiere) in Italian.

Ready for a good cup of coffee in Trieste? Book your Vueling here.

 

Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación

Photos by dani7c3, Caffè TommaseoCaffè TorineseCaffè degli Specchi

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Carnac and its Mysterious Megalithic Alignments

Brittany has a wealth of activities to enjoy, be it hiking along the rugged, Atlantic-facing coastline with its stunning scenery, perusing medieval vestiges by visiting castles and abbeys or tasting the local culinary specialities such as crepes, oysters and cider.

There are numerous spots worth visiting in this land of tales and legends, and one area you should make a point of seeing is the Morbihan Coast. But, what exactly lurks in this area in the south of Brittany? Over and above the beaches, which are not to be missed, lies one of the world’s most important prehistoric sites, the Carnac Alignments. Made up of a large number of menhirs, and a few scattered dolmens and tumuli, this ensemble makes Brittany one of the leading centres of prehistoric markers in Europe and, by extension, in the world. Not for nothing the word “menhir”, meaning long stone, and “dolmen”, meaning stone table, both come from the Breton language.

The Carnac Alignments – An Unsolved Mystery

Each year, the town of Carnac, situated in Quiberon Bay, draws a large number of tourists and devotees eager to discover one of the largest extant ensembles of megaliths. The site lies north of Carnac and features larges swathes of megalithic alignments, dolmens, tumuli and menhirs. There are some 3,000 menhirs in all, placed here during the Neolithic period, some time between 4500 and 3300 BC.

The ensemble was originally made up of around 10,000 megaliths and their function remains one of the great unsolved mysteries, even today. There are various disparate theories, ranging from those claiming the site to be of a religious cult, a fertility cult, an astrological map, a necropolis and even a place associated with extraterrestrials, the latter being a common explanation for the great mysteries of mankind. The other major question, which has visitors enthralled, is how they managed to transport and place such large stones, given the limited technology at the time. Visitors approach this megalithic ensemble abuzz with many questions of this kind, and leave the site with the issues unresolved, but the experience is breathtaking in itself.

The complex consists of three major alignments – those of Ménec, Kermario and Kerlescan – although they are thought to have originally been just one. The Ménec alignment is the largest, comprising 1,099 menhirs set in 11 rows, with the east and west ends flanked by cromlechs or stone circles. East of Ménec lies the Kermario alignment, also one of the most frequently visited, featuring 982 menhirs placed in 10 rows and the largest standing stones in the site. Lastly, the Kerlescan alignment, located east of Kermario, has 540 stones distributed in 13 rows. Additionally, there is also the group known as Le Petit-Ménec. Located in a forest, it is made up of 100 standing stones and is thought to have once formed part of Kerlescan.

As if the foregoing were not enough, sightseers can also visit the burial mounds, such as Saint-Michel, dating from 5000 BC, as well as a large number of dolmens, which usually had a funerary function. Before leaving, be sure to visit the Manio Giant, the tallest menhir in the site, which rises six and a half metres.

Book your Vueling to Nantes, which is less than 2 hours from Carnac, and discover this area of Brittany and its mysterious megaliths.

Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Images by Patrick Subotkiewiez, Mike Thomas, Brian Smithson

 

 

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