The Palio di Siena
Situated some 75 kilometres south of Florence, Siena is a must-visit spot on any route through Tuscany. The architectural beauty of its historic centre, designated a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1995, is one of its major draws. A former marketplace, the Piazza del Campo –popularly known as Il Campo – is the undisputed centrepiece of the city’s social life and the ideal point of departure for sightseeing in Siena.
The square was paved in 1327 and divided into nine sections, one for each of the Noveschi – the nine oligarchs that ruled the city. It still transports the visitor to medieval times, due in part to the buildings around its perimeter, notably the Palazzo Pubblico and Torre del Mangia. The former, also known as the Palazzo Comunale, was built in the early 14th century. Located on the south side of the square, it houses the Museo Civico. The campanile on this palace is called the Torre del Mangia. A veritable icon of the city, its height of 102 metres affords the best panoramic views of Siena. At the top of the square is the Fonte Gaia, built to facilitate the channelling of water to the city centre. The fountain now on the site is a replica of the original, sculpted by Jacopo della Quercia, while the original is on view in the museum at Santa Maria della Scala.
A Medieval Tradition Which Never Ages
This square is actually the centre stage of one of the defining moments in the life of this beautiful Tuscan city – the celebration of the Palio di Siena. Every year the festivity attracts both locals and hordes of tourists, eager to relive a tradition which never seems to have aged. The focal point of this famous race is the Piazza del Campo. Once it is adorned with all the celebratory trappings, including flags and people dressed in period costumes, it is well nigh impossible for visitors to avoid feeling swept back to another time in history.
The key dates for the Palio, the origins of which go back to the 16th century, are2 July,with the running of the Palio di Provenzano (in honour of the Madonna of Provenzano), and16 August,when it is the turn of the Palio dell’Assunta (in honour of the Assumption of Mary). These are the two dates you need to jot down in your diary if you want to experience the most authentic moments in the life of Siena, or as dates to avoid, if you don’t fancy being swamped by crowds. On those two days, the Piazza del Campo is transformed into a thrilling, fast-paced horse race which actually only lasts for a mere two minutes. The participants consist of representatives of the sixteen contrade (parish districts), who vie for the honour of seizing the palio, a silk standard. By way of a warm-up in the days preceding the race, all sorts of competitions are held in a festive mood around the city, enhanced by the sight of colourful period costumes.
Visiting the City
Apart from the highly popular Piazza del Campo, Siena also has other interesting sights worth seeing on your visit to the city. One such landmark is the Duomo (Siena Cathedral), in Italian Gothic style, which houses works by Pisano, Donatello, Michelangelo and Bernini. One unusual feature is to be found in the floor, which has 56 panels depicting Biblical scenes, some of which can only be viewed in September and October as they are covered for conservation purposes. Also in the Piazza del Duomo is the Museo dell’Opera, with sculptures that were previously housed in the Cathedral, and the Santa Maria della Scala complex, a former hospital which now houses three museums – the National Archaeological Museum, the Siena Contemporary Art Centre and a Children's Art Museum.
Book your Vueling to Florence and head for Siena to coincide with the city’s festivities.
Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Image by Janus Kinase
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Modern Seville
Holy Week, the Seville Fair and the endless bullfighting afternoons notwithstanding, Seville has also kept up with the times and become a modern, cosmopolitan city. A stroll through its streets reveals a blend of tradition and the latest trends coexisting amid the flavour and colourfulness for which Seville is famed.
Whether or not you have been to Seville before, you ought to know that the Cathedral, Real Alcázar, Torre del Oro and Triana Quarter are must-see landmarks. But, today, Seville is far more than that. It is a major hub of artistic creation and a place where you can delight in the sight of avant-garde buildings and Indie venues – welcome to modern Seville!
Where To Look
To find the more groundbreaking Seville, your epicentre is the Plaza de la Encarnación, in the heart of the central Alfalfa quarter. There you will come across the Metropol Parasol, better known as Las Setas, designed by the Berlin architect, Jürgen Mayer. The structure raised heckles even before it was built on account of such a groundbreaking design being earmarked for the old, historic centre. The complex is made up of a market, restaurants, a viewpoint and the amazing Antiquarium, an archaeological museum where visitors can view the Roman subsoil of the city.
Continuing along our route, we come to fashion stores and bars with alternative decoration in the Alameda de Hércules and surrounding area. On the Calle Feria, for instance, enthusiasts of second-hand garments – designer apparel or otherwise – should make a point of visiting such stores as Ropero Sevilla and Crispa2 vintage. Or, if you are a 50s furniture and decoration devotee, you are sure to find the odd curio in Retrogrado (C/ San Luis 81). In the El Arenal quarter, taverns with a long-standing tradition rub shoulders with contemporary art galleries. So, don’t be surprised if you get served a chamomile tea with a fusion tapa in some trendy bar. When in Seville, the best thing is to just switch off and let the city lead you where it will.
Modernity, 178 Metres Up
The Pelli Tower, located near Las Setas de la Encarnación and between the Triana quarter and La Cartuja, is the other major indicator that Seville is at the forefront of modern trends. But this skyscraper was controversial, too, as, apart from La Giralda, the city has never had tall buildings and the tower’s construction drew the criticism that it severed the horizontality of the skyline. A stroll through this area will also bring you within sight of the buildings left behind from Expo 92, an era which spawned such noteworthy constructions as the New Airport Terminal, designed by Rafael Moneo, the Santa Justa Train Station, by Cruz y Ortiz, and the famous Alamillo Bridge, by Santiago Calatrava.
Eating and Sleeping
Seville has a huge gastronomic assortment but, if you want to try a reworking of traditional culinary classics, Yebra is the restaurant to go for. Without luxuries or frills, it is the sort of eatery that only locals frequent. Go in, rub shoulders with the people and enjoy! La Macarena is one of the most grass-roots districts in the city and you will soon feel at home.
And, for your sleepover, there is the Gran Meliá Colón, a revamped Seville classic featuring furniture by designers of the likes of Philippe Starck, Marcel Wanders and Edra. Then you have the Eme Catedral Hotel, a 16th-century building with cutting-edge fixtures and fittings where you can relax and luxuriate like a true king.
All that’s left is for you to pack your bags and book your flight to Seville.
Text by Aleix Palau for Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS
Images by losmininos
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Underground. Belgrade goes under.
A city underground. This idea was developed by Emir Kusturica – filmmaker born in Bosnia, raised on Islam, later converted to Christianity and self-proclaimed Serbian – in the movie Underground (1995), which showed the eventful recent history of the former Yugoslavia in a tragicomic point of view, with the protagonists create their own world underground to protect their interests, forgetting about the events above the ground. This is some kind of Plato’s cave where they live isolated while about the Nazis invade the territory, later Tito regime during the Cold War and finally the Yugoslavian war.
Located strategically between western and eastern territories, at the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers and by the Adriatic, Aegean and Black seas, probably is the European city that has been devastated and rebuilt again the most. Serbian capital has been occupied about 38 times in the past 300 years. Austrians, Serbians and Germans have created all kind of structures in the territory that Belgrade occupies.
The insides - a tangle of tunnels, shafts, caves and bunkers - have always been there, preserved during all these wars and also created because of them. Most of the historical center is on archaeological sites and hundreds of meters of tunnels were built for many reasons, during thousands of years.
Since 2012, some of these secrets can be revealed in Belgrade - even most of them still remain closed to the public – in a trip through subterranean routes. Total, there are about 140 structures certified officially nowadays, which are allowed to be visited.
But for now is almost impossible to know how many elements can be found underground. One person that knows this well is Zoran Nikolic, cowriter of Beograd ispod Beograda (‘Belgrade under Belgrade’) where he reveals the secrets that he now also shows as specialized guide around this area.
Under the library in Belgrade
By the start of Knez Mihailova street the City Library can be found, located in a building that used to be the most famous hotel in Belgrade. In the underground floors there is the Roman room, with well-conserved rests of an old fortress and a collection of Roman sculptures and graves. The room is used for lectures, music concerts and other cultural events.
Under the Belgrade fortress
Kalemegdan, the great Fortress of Belgrade, is one of the seven fortifications that stand by the Danube, along Serbia and at the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers. Here is where, according to the legend, Attila was buried. The fortress along to the Kalemegdan Park, become the most relevant historic-cultural complex in Belgrade.
Under the ground there is Barutana cave, a former Austrian military warehouse now used as archaeological museum, including pieces from Singidunum, the antique Roman city that used to be where Belgrade is now, including sarcophagi, tombstones and altars.
Bellow the park there is also a fascinating bunker, from the last days of the Soviet Union. Josip Broz Tito, Yugoslavian head of state, wanted to built a bunker after World War II to protect Belgrade of a possible Russian invasion.
Near the fortress, artificial caves where used as food warehouses. Nowadays, restaurants and cellars are located here, where there is never a need for air-conditioned.
Under Tašmajdan park
One of the most significant parts of the route is under the centric park of Tasmajdan, right bellow the Serbian Parliament. Bellow asphalt and concrete layers there are caves built by the Romans that were used centuries after for many purposes: during the Great War they were a warehouse for bombs and during World War II they were used as hidden headquarters by the Germans.
Picture from wikimapia.org
A place well worth discovering! Check out our flights here.
more infoA Dubliner’s Dublin
This time we’re showcasing a more genuine Dublin – a Dubliner’s Dublin. We shall avoid tourist tracks – well covered by umpteen posts in the blogosphere – and provide you with a more contemporary vision.
Getting about the city is very easy as it is well connected, but we propose discovering Ireland’s capital on foot. Most of the spots we’ll be recommending are accessible on a pleasant stroll along the banks of the river Liffey.
Our first stop is a Georgian mansion, the house of Richard Wingfield, Viscount Powerscourt (1730-1788), and his wife, Lady Amelia. It has now been converted into a trendy shopping centre, the Powerscourt Shopping Centre. A gem of past times become contemporary. Under one roof you can see the transition from the Baroque to the Neoclassical. The interior features unique design, fashion, gastronomy and art shops, among others. It also houses six restaurants, notably The Pepper Pot, with its large menu of organic dishes, and Pygmalion, known for its snacks and breakfast based on local produce.
Nearby, along George´s Street, is one of the best gay and lesbian pubs, The George, perfect for listening to live music and having a good pint. Could it be otherwise? On entering, turn around and you will see one of the city’s most beautiful murals, executed by the artist, Joe Caslin. Dublin’s gay district is gradually gaining currency, opening up an alternative avenue in the city and well worth visiting.
On the street that bears the name of the legendary Irish guitarist, musician, composer and producer, Rory Gallagher, lies Meeting House Square. In summer, this square throngs with musical events, while all year around on Saturdays it hosts foodies at a quaint organic market studded with takeaway food stalls offering the best quality. Here you will also come across the Temple Oyster Bar. If you’re a lover of this bivalve shellfish, just do it!
Now that we’re in the heart of the famous Temple Bar area, a short way off the beaten track we come to Essex Street East, home to one of the most delightful men’s fashion shops in all Dublin, Indigo and Cloth.
If you’re a photography enthusiast, make sure you head for The National Centre for Contemporary Photography – their exhibitions are really excellent! You will discover thematic collections of old Dublin, the Irish countryside and remembrances of the Great Famine.
The city also boasts an unusual cinema, a meeting point for Bohemians and lovers of the seventh art, where you can also have the menu of the day; we’re talking about the Irish Film Institute.
But, if you’re game for a unique extrasensorial gastronomic experience, make sure you book for the city’s on-trend restaurant, Sophie's restaurant, located on the terrace of the newly inaugurated The Dean Hotel. Any description of their service, and the glamorous, stylish decor, is unlikely to do it justice, not to mention the incredible 360-degree views of the city.
Lastly, if you’re sweet-toothed, don’t fail to give yourself a treat at Queen of Tarts, a café and patisserie which was opened in the late-nineties by the Fallon sisters. Among Dubliners, their unbeatable cakes and tarts are an open secret.
If you’ve been following this itinerary, you’ve obviously strayed from the traditional route. But, if you still have the time, we recommend taking a whole day off to see the city in one of the typical Hop on-Hop Off tourist buses. We guarantee that, by the end of the weekend, you will have finished Dublin off!
We’ll be returning to Dublin soon, as this year sees the Irish Design 2015 event,but we’ll get to that in another post… for further information, check out the Tourism Ireland website.
Hurry and book your tickets with Vueling – you’re closer than ever to Dublin!
Text by Tensi Sánchez of actitudesmgz.com
Photography by Verónica García
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