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Vintage Trip To Aranjuez

Among the host of outings to go on in Madrid’s outlying area is one to Aranjuez, with its panoply of artistic, cultural and ecological heritage sites. Not for nothing was it listed by UNESCO as a World Cultural Landscape in 2001.

The Strawberry Train – Experiencing a Bygone Age

For enthusiasts of both old times and new experiences, there is an alternative and highly original way of travelling from Madrid to Aranjuez, which is by taking the Strawberry Train. But, what makes this means of transport so different from the others? First, it runs on the second railway line to be built in Spain, inaugurated on 9 February 1851. The first line to come into operation was the Barcelona–Mataró line, opened in 1948. The aim of the second route was to connect Madrid to the coast, with Alicante as the final destination. In its early days, its importance lay in the produce it transported to Madrid from the market gardens in Aranjuez, prompting it to be known as the Strawberry Train.

Its other big draw is that the train operating this line was built in the early 20th century. Having been restored, it gives you the feel of what train travel was like in bygone days. It has a rakish engine with wooden carriages. And, during the journey, passengers are offered strawberries from Aranjuez by hostesses dressed in period costume. The Strawberry Train runs at weekends in May, June, September and October and leaves from the Railway Museum or Museo del Ferrocarril. The timetable is posted here.

Aranjuez, An Area of Courtly Recreation

Aranjuez’s fortunes changed when Philip II awarded it the title of Royal Site. It was turned into the Spanish monarch’s country residence, thus becoming a royal precinct, particularly during the reigns of Philip V (17th-18th century) and Charles III (18th century). It was precisely these kings who commissioned the creation of the areas which are now the city’s must-see sights. In line with prevailing tastes during the Enlightenment, the inner city was designed in a reticular layout which has survived to the present and never fails to surprise visitors.

Among the standout monuments is the Royal Palace, designed by the architects, Juan Bautista de Toledo and Juan de Herrera. It also features a later extension, including the wings added in 1775. The interior houses such curiosities as the Porcelain Study – the capital work of the Royal Porcelain Factory in Madrid’s Buen Retiro – and the Arab Study, inspired by the Hall of the Two Sisters in the Alhambra of Granada.

Also worth visiting is the Real Casa del Labrador (Farmer’s Lodge), set in the so-called Prince’s Garden, the work of Juan Villanueva and Isidro González Velázquez. Lastly, another notable landmark is the Church of San Antonio, commissioned by Ferdinand VI in honour of St Anthony of Padua.

Another standout feature of Aranjuez is its Royal Gardens. There are four in all, namely the Parterre, the King’s Garden,the Island Garden and the Prince’s Garden, situated on the Tagus riverbank and within the Royal Palace precinct. They were all designed as recreational areas for the Court and attest to a blend of French taste acquired from the Bourbons and Italian influences, yielding a stunning result which is worth strolling around and enjoying.

Wait – There’s More!

For those who aren’t satiated by monuments and gardens, another feature of Aranjuez is its huerta or market gardens, among the most important in Spain. Situated between the Tagus and Jarama rivers, the fertile soil produces such crops as asparagus – here known as pericos– and strawberries, introduced by the French Bourbons. The latter also patronised farming research and experimentation on this land, as evinced in the surviving Renaissance layout of the allotments.

Don’t fail to make a gastronomic stopover to savour the fruit of this land. A classical option is Casa José, one of the most celebrated restaurants in the Madrid Community.

Ready for a getaway with a period twist? Check out our flights here.

 

Text by ISABELYLUIS Comunicación

Images by Eric Titcombe, M a n u e l, Andrés Gómez - Club Ferroviario 241

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The Amalfi Coast Sublime Campania

We’ve often been asked by friends and acquaintances to recommend a getatable romantic destination for some special celebration with their partner. We always give them the same answer – the Amalfi Coast, in Italy’s Campania region. Indeed, you cannot help but fall in love with this slice of coastline, bathed by the waters of the Tyrrhenian Sea, with winding roads concealing some of Italy’s sublimest, most picturesque villages.

The best spot to start out on your itinerary is Sorrento. While not strictly on the coastal route, it is still a charming destination whose luxury hotels have attracted the big names in opera, notably Enrico Caruso and Luciano Pavarotti, acclaimed for his memorable interpretations of Torna a Surriento, one of the best known Neapolitan songs in the world. The balconies so characteristic of the seafront of this Neapolitan town afford some of the best views of Mt Vesuvius, a volcano which has scored the history of this land with fire.

Positano is the first village we come to on the Amalfi Coast or Costiera Amalfitana. Before driving into it, there are some wonderful viewpoints affording vistas of the village, with its houses clinging to the hillside, providing one of the most elegant and iconic picture postcards in Italy. Picturesque and unique, Positano is a must-visit spot on the Amalfi Coast and a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1997. Its steep streets are lined with fashion boutiques and shops selling typical products, while some of its “almost affordable” hotels are veritable backwaters of peace and quiet where many a couple have uttered their “Yes, I do”. This is the case with the Hotel Poseidon, run by the Aonzo brothers, who pamper their guests as if they were true friends.

We still recall how Marco kindly let us use one of his collector cars, a crimson red Alfa Romeo Spider, which we drove like celebrities of the Italian Neorealism to visit other legendary villages on the Amalfi Coast –Amalfi and Ravello. The former, after which this stretch of coastline in the Gulf of Salerno is named, is noteworthy for its flamboyant Piazza del Duomo and the staircase leading up to the Cathedral. Amalfi is the ideal place for shopping along its crowded streets, as well as for sitting down in some secluded restaurant with sea views to lunch or dine on some of the local specialities, notably fish in acqua pazza, washed down with a fine white Fiano di Avellino wine. The final gastronomic flourish is provided by the local queen of liqueurs, limoncello, made from the large, aromatic lemons grown in this area.

Another renowned village on the Amalfi Coast is Ravello, which has a gem in its Villa Cimbrone gardens, which are open to the public, and the marvellous Villa Rufolo, a spot that has enchanted poets, artists and musicians and has helped turn this part of the Italian coastline into one of the ideal places to get married.

Book your Vueling to Naples and make a tour of the Amalfi Coast.

Text by Tus Destinos

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A Fiesta to Die For at Santa Marta de Ribarteme

At noon on 29 July each year, in the small Pontevedran church of San Xosé de Ribarteme, one of the most unusual processions in the world sets out – the Romaxe dos cadaleitos (Procession of the Coffins) of Santa Marta de Ribartemeo. San Xosé de Ribarteme is in the municipality of As Neves, some 30 kilometres from Vigo, which for centuries remained isolated from the influence of traditional, orthodox Catholicism.

The effigy of St Martha is paraded at the procession of Santa Marta de Ribarteme,protectress of the helpless and patroness of lost causes, one of the most devoutly worshipped virgins in the community. She is also the sister of Mary Magdalene and Lazarus, who was raised from the dead by Christ after having been dead for three days. Alongside her effigy and the images of St Benedict and the Virgin of Carmen, a funeral cortege comprising open coffins with living people insidefiles past, the coffins held aloft by family and friends. It is a profound act of faith, combining religion and symbology, by which the faithful intend to fulfil a promise they have made to St Martha out of gratitude for having survived some near-death experience. As the cortege files past, the other pilgrims sings the praises of the virgin’s healing powers to the rhythm of drums and the constant pealing of bells.“Virgin St Martha, Star of the North, we bring you those who saw death”.

The enactment breathes spirituality and a devotion typical of the Galician heartland. Visitors may be shocked by the scene, but every year more and more faithful, tourists and passers-by come to this small Galician village to experience this special moment. Galicia is a land of legends in which death and resurrection often play a major role. Stories which unfold across misty landscapes, like the one about the Holy Campaign – a procession of tormented souls who, in their grim wanderings, visit the homes where someone is about to die. This mysticism is part of the land’s charm – to discover the essence of Galicia, one has to come to terms with its ancestral customs.

In the International Limelight

The procession is arousing increasingly more interest among tourists and journalists around the world. It even came to the notice of The Guardian which ranked it the second most unusual festivity in the world, a fact which has increased its fame even further. Other landmarks in the area have also come to the prestigious newspaper’s notice – it has classed Rodas Beach and the Cíes Islands, in the archipelago of the same name in Pontevedra province, as the most beautiful in the world.

The journal, National Geographic, also set its sights on the Rías Baixas in a documentary on cultural traditions and communities around Europe. In the course of its making, the television presenter, Darren McMullen, got heavily involved in the action by climbing into one of the processionary coffins.

«El Concello de As Neves»

The Concello de As Neves municipality, closely linked to the river Miño, which forms the natural border with Portugal along a 10-kilometre stretch, is an ideal spot for delving into the past. This is evident at A Pedra da Moura, in the Taboexa parish district, and Monte das Carboeiras, in Liñares, as well as in the military vestiges at Cividá, Rocha and Altamira. The beautiful landscapes of As Neves can be viewed from several routes skirting the Miño riverbanks, notably the Sendeiro dos Pescadores de As Neves, which winds along the Galician side of the river, and the Ruta do Patrimonio Natural e Histórico-Artístico, a circular route which traverses the thirteen parish districts in the As Neves municipality.

Concello de As Neves also boasts fine cuisine, with such local produce as lamprey, baby eel, game, honey and queixo (cheese) das Neves, ideally washed down with a white wine from the Miño riverbanks such as Condado or Albariño, or the Rubios red.

Come and live out this extraordinary experience. Check out our flights to Vigo here.

 

Text by Scanner FM

Images by Ricardo Grobas for Vivir Galicia Turismo, Galicia Maxica, Un paseo o una foto

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A tour through the history of Nuremberg

By Oriol Salvador

Nuremberg is one of those cities that allows you to organise an interesting tour through history without leaving town and no need for a time machine. A city that was bombed in 1945 and rebuilt shortly afterwards, its leading role throughout medieval, modern and contemporary history has left it with many historical attractions.

It was the capital of the German Empire between the 11th and 14th Centuries, a key centre during the German Renaissance and the main setting for the Thirty Years War (1632). Thanks to its importance during the imperial époque, Hitler made it the headquarters of the Nazi Party Congress and it was also in Nuremberg where various Nazi war criminals were tried and sentenced in Court Room 600 in the Palace of Justice .

Its history has left the city with many interesting monuments to be visited and Bavarian artists, such as Albercht Dürer have given Nuremberg an artistic heritage not to be missed. This tour offers a route through the city so you can find out all about in just one day.

Nuremberg Palace of Justice (Justizpalast)

Our tour of Nuremberg starts at this seat of judicial power, which today remains fully operational. It was here that the Nuremberg Trials took place that lasted almost one year and where the sentences handed out to some of the heads of the Nazi regime became a landmark in the history of international law.

The Court Room 600, the scene of these historic trials, is still used as a courtroom today and at the weekends, when it is not in use, offers guided tours. As an alternative, if you find the room closed, you can visit the “Memorium Nuremberg Trials” exhibition which can be found in the East Wing of the building.

German National Museum (Germanische Nationalmuseum)

Although this involves a large chunk of time and patience, as you have to queue up to get in, the visit to the German National Museum is well worth it as it is possible to see one of the greatest collections of modern German art to be found in Nuremberg, Germany and the world, all under one roof. Until 2 September, you can see “The Early Dürer”, a retrospective exhibition of the early works of German artist Albercht Dürer, a son of Nuremberg and the greatest exponent of the 16th Century German Renaissance.

On your way in or after your visit, opposite the museum entrance, is the Street of Human Rights , 29 commemorative columns that bear the 30 articles of the Universal Declaration of Human Rights . One curious thing, there are 29 columns and 30 articles (in 30 different languages) because the last column, in Spanish, had to be taken away because it was blocking the exit for the fire station. They said they’d replace it but…

Marriage Carousel (Ehekarussell)

Going into the city centre, at the foot of the Weißer Turm (White Tower), you will find a fountain that is not suitable for the recently married: the Marriage Carousel was sculpted in 1984 by Jürgen Weber. Its figures were inspired by the poem “Bittersweet Married Life” by Hans Sachs. The sculptures depict falling in love at the beginning, the routine of living together and ends up with… well, you’ll see for yourself.

Church of St. Lawrence (Lorenzkirche)

The Church of St. Lawrence, built in the 13th Century, is an example of the Hallenkirche (hall churches), the typical German Gothic churches, with three aisles of the same height. Most of it was rebuilt following the Second World War bombardments and among its curious details that catch your attention are the nets that protect the statues in the portico so that birds can’t make their nests there or the Braille information panel we came across at the entrance.

Hospital of the Holy Spirit (Heilig-Geist-Spital)

This is one of the most well-known postcards of the city of Nuremberg, photographed from the bridge opposite. On the banks of the River Pegnitz, the building was constructed between 1332 and 1339. Having fulfilled its duties as a hospital, it is currently a municipal home for the elderly.

Market Square (Hauptmarkt)

Another of the must-see spots you simply must not miss on any tour of Nuremberg, is dominated by the Church of Our Lady (Frauenkirche) built in 1358 by order of Emperor Charles IV. Its famous marketplace (particularly well-known for its Christmas Market but also offers a fresh produce and traditional food market during the rest of the year). Here you will find the Beautiful Fountain (Schöner Brunnen) that dates back to the 14th Century . The square is encircled by innumerable souvenir shops and the city tour bus stop is located right beside the historic fountain.

Bratwursthäusle

At this stage in the tour, we suggest a rest and something to fuel the stomach chance by sampling some traditional German food. Opposite the old Town Hall we found the Bratwursthäusle restaurant, where we could try the traditional German bratwurst accompanied by the equally emblematic pretzel. So sit down on the terrace and guten appetit!

Albercht Dürer’s House (Albercht Dürer Haus)

Fed and watered and after a short rest, you will be ready to walk to the highest area of the city. Before you leave the city walls, we recommend a visit to the house-museum that used to be the home of Albercht Dürer that includes in its exhibition, a chance to see the process carried out by Dürer when creating his famous etchings . Interestingly, in the square opposite the house, we discovered a curious sculpture reminiscent of one of the most well-known works by Dürer, the hare.

Imperial Castle of Nuremberg (Kaiserburg)

When you pass through the walls, you might be surprised to see gardens and orchards in the moat. The city hall rented the space out to the citizens of Nuremberg who use it as an urban vegetable patch or garden… Following the wall along for a few metres, we reach the Imperial Castle of Nuremberg from which point you can see the entire city (see the panoramic view at the start of this article). It was the residence of the German emperors from 1050 to 1571 and as well having preserved some of its original living quarters that are open to visitors, many other parts of the castle are still inhabited today.

Zeppelin Field (Zeppelinfeld)

To conclude this tour, we leave the city centre and to do this, if you haven’t done so already, we recommend you use the city’s public transport, specifically, the No. 36 bus route. You have to take this bus from the stop that is fairly near the castle then get off at the last stop on the line, that will leave you right opposite the Documentation Centre , inaugurated in 2000, the former Nazi Party Congress.

The original project for this building was to construct a half section of an amphitheatre in the style of the Roman Coliseum , with a conference auditorium in its centre. Now the building houses an interesting and modern information centre that can be visited, with a permanent exhibition documenting the history of the precinct and the ruthless abuse of power by the Nazi regime.

From there, you have to border the lake to reach the Zeppelinfeld itself: an enormous grandstand inspired by the Pergamon Altar from which Hitler directed the parades and Nazi Party congresses. Today, the area is very run-down and the city of Nuremberg only uses it for a >rock music festival held at the start of June (reminiscent of the 1970s) and a car race that takes place during the first week of July. Strange, isn’t it? Even so, you should pay a visit even if it is only to say “I’ve been there” before you go back into the city. Talking of the return, close to the Zeppelin Field there are two stops for the local train (S2) which will drop you off at Nuremberg’s central station.

Useful information

As regards transport, other than the cases we’ve mentioned, the rest of the tour can be done on foot. However, our advice is to pick up the Nürberg Cardfrom any of the city’s Tourist Offices that, for 21 €, gives you two-day access to all the museums and public transport. Children under 12 can get their card free of charge.

Another option to think about for getting around the city is NorisBike, a public bicycle hire service available to both residents of and visitors to Nuremberg. You can find more information about this service (in German) at aquí.

We’ll be there. If you want to come too, check out our flights here.

 

 

 

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