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A Fiesta to Die For at Santa Marta de Ribarteme

At noon on 29 July each year, in the small Pontevedran church of San Xosé de Ribarteme, one of the most unusual processions in the world sets out – the Romaxe dos cadaleitos (Procession of the Coffins) of Santa Marta de Ribartemeo. San Xosé de Ribarteme is in the municipality of As Neves, some 30 kilometres from Vigo, which for centuries remained isolated from the influence of traditional, orthodox Catholicism.

The effigy of St Martha is paraded at the procession of Santa Marta de Ribarteme,protectress of the helpless and patroness of lost causes, one of the most devoutly worshipped virgins in the community. She is also the sister of Mary Magdalene and Lazarus, who was raised from the dead by Christ after having been dead for three days. Alongside her effigy and the images of St Benedict and the Virgin of Carmen, a funeral cortege comprising open coffins with living people insidefiles past, the coffins held aloft by family and friends. It is a profound act of faith, combining religion and symbology, by which the faithful intend to fulfil a promise they have made to St Martha out of gratitude for having survived some near-death experience. As the cortege files past, the other pilgrims sings the praises of the virgin’s healing powers to the rhythm of drums and the constant pealing of bells.“Virgin St Martha, Star of the North, we bring you those who saw death”.

The enactment breathes spirituality and a devotion typical of the Galician heartland. Visitors may be shocked by the scene, but every year more and more faithful, tourists and passers-by come to this small Galician village to experience this special moment. Galicia is a land of legends in which death and resurrection often play a major role. Stories which unfold across misty landscapes, like the one about the Holy Campaign – a procession of tormented souls who, in their grim wanderings, visit the homes where someone is about to die. This mysticism is part of the land’s charm – to discover the essence of Galicia, one has to come to terms with its ancestral customs.

In the International Limelight

The procession is arousing increasingly more interest among tourists and journalists around the world. It even came to the notice of The Guardian which ranked it the second most unusual festivity in the world, a fact which has increased its fame even further. Other landmarks in the area have also come to the prestigious newspaper’s notice – it has classed Rodas Beach and the Cíes Islands, in the archipelago of the same name in Pontevedra province, as the most beautiful in the world.

The journal, National Geographic, also set its sights on the Rías Baixas in a documentary on cultural traditions and communities around Europe. In the course of its making, the television presenter, Darren McMullen, got heavily involved in the action by climbing into one of the processionary coffins.

«El Concello de As Neves»

The Concello de As Neves municipality, closely linked to the river Miño, which forms the natural border with Portugal along a 10-kilometre stretch, is an ideal spot for delving into the past. This is evident at A Pedra da Moura, in the Taboexa parish district, and Monte das Carboeiras, in Liñares, as well as in the military vestiges at Cividá, Rocha and Altamira. The beautiful landscapes of As Neves can be viewed from several routes skirting the Miño riverbanks, notably the Sendeiro dos Pescadores de As Neves, which winds along the Galician side of the river, and the Ruta do Patrimonio Natural e Histórico-Artístico, a circular route which traverses the thirteen parish districts in the As Neves municipality.

Concello de As Neves also boasts fine cuisine, with such local produce as lamprey, baby eel, game, honey and queixo (cheese) das Neves, ideally washed down with a white wine from the Miño riverbanks such as Condado or Albariño, or the Rubios red.

Come and live out this extraordinary experience. Check out our flights to Vigo here.

 

Text by Scanner FM

Images by Ricardo Grobas for Vivir Galicia Turismo, Galicia Maxica, Un paseo o una foto

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Soaking up Spring in Holland

Like clogs, windmills and bicycles, the tulip as a symbol is intimately linked to one’s image of Holland. This bulb, which originated in Anatolia and the Middle East, reached Europe in the 16th century and was met with marked admiration, particularly in the Low Countries. There, just one century later, it sparked a phenomenon that came to be known as “tulip mania”. As a result, the flower became a veritable cult object, fetching exorbitant prices and eventually being listed on the stock exchange. This ended up triggering the first recorded economic bubble in history, on account of the speculation that emerged around this product.

Nowadays, tulips inundate the Dutch countryside each spring, turning it into a genuine explosion of colour. It is well worth a getaway to the Netherlands just to contemplate it. For those eager to savour this priceless flower to the full, we have put together a selection of places you can’t fail to include on your must-see list.

Keukenhof, a Park With Over 7 Million Flower Bulbs
Keukenhof
is located in Lisse, between Amsterdam and The Hague, in the heart of what is known as the “Bulb Region”. Here you will encounter an amazing 7 million plus flower bulbs, the sight of which is overpowering. This is a must-visit site for flower lovers and nature devotees in general. But, Keukenhof is not celebrated just for its huge number of flowers, but also for its landscape design, featuring lakes, fountains, walkways and windmills, making up a surprisingly heady ensemble. The only drawback is that this marvellous garden is only open to the public at the time of the tulip blossom; that is, from mid-March to the end of May and, owing to the large crowds that flock here, it is advisable to book well in advance.

En Route Through Bollenstreek, The Bulb Region
The area known as the Bulb Region (Bollenstreek, in Dutch) is another destination you should make a point of visiting in spring. Situated 30 kilometres south-west of Amsterdam, between Haarlem and Leiden, the area is characterised by the presence of clayey earth which, in conjunction with the prevailing maritime climate, makes for perfect tulip-growing conditions, in addition to other bulbs, notably crocuses, daffodils and hyacinths. The time of year to come here is in April, when the tulips reach their maximum splendour. Touring this land by car or bicycle is a veritable delight on the eyes, as you come across field after field of myriad tulips in all shapes and colours – an astonishing sight for any visitor to behold. Organised tours from Amsterdam ply a fairly comprehensive circuit through the towns in Bollenstreek.

Tulip Museum
If you are eager to know the history and all the ins and outs of this popular, highly prized bulb, make a point of visiting Amsterdam’s Tulip Museum before you leave Holland. Located in the Jordaan district, hard by the Anne Frank house museum, it is an essential resource for learning the thrilling history of this priceless flower.

Book your Vueling to Amsterdam and gear up to savour spring in Holland.

Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Photos by Robert Lyle Bolton

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Quest For the Best Bubbles in the Penedès

Half an hour south of Barcelona lies the Penedès DO wine region, primarily noted for being a leading producing centre of cava, one of Spain’s most celebrated sparkling wines. A mainstay of all major celebrations in the country, the origins of this “Catalan champagne” go back to the mid-19th century. French champagne arrived in the area around 1820 and a certain Luis Justo Villanueva of the Instituto Agrícola Catalán de San Isidro was one of the first vintners to try out and advocate the traditional champenoise method required to produce this innovative product. However, it was the Reus-based firm Soberano & Cía, run by Domènec Soberano i Mestres and Francesc Gil i Borràs, that first marketed the product, presenting it at the Paris World Fair of 1868.

Initially, the same grape variety was used as in champagne, but, owing to the phylloxera epidemic of 1887 which ravaged the local vines, the use of indigenous grape varieties was introduced, endowing the cava we know today with its distinctive personality. The main varieties are macabeo, parellada and xarel·lo.

It was originally known as champagne but, as a result of French champagne being awarded “protected geographical status” in 1972, the Catalan variety began to be called cava, named after the cellars (cavas) where the wine reposes during its production.

Well, what’s in it for anyone wishing to set out in search of those delicious bubbles? For starters, there is the product itself, a worthy equal to its French counterpart in terms of quality. And, those who are not particularly fond of sparkling beverages can always embark on tasting sessions of the region’s other wines, which deserve a section of their own. Then there is the scenery, characterised by vineyards stretching across the land and the proximity of the Mediterranean, in addition to the villages where the wine cellars are located. And, if you’re eager for still more, you can explore the region’s culinary offerings and the enotourism activities hosted there, noteworthy being the Wine and Cava Routes, a set of ten trails taking you through the different vineyards. What more could you ask for?

The town of Sant Sandurní d’Anoia is regarded as the “cava capital” of the DO Penedès wine region as 75% of the area’s production is concentrated here. It is thus a fitting point of departure for embarking on any route associated with this fine sparkling wine. You could make an initial stop at the Cava Interpretation Centre, a 1,200-square-metre space where you can learn about cava production, as well as its history, origins and other details.

Before or after visiting some of the wine cellars, we recommend taking a stroll in the town centre as a number of interesting Modernist buildings are located there. Noteworthy examples of such Art Nouveau edifices include the Lluís Mestres House, Cal Rigol, the Escoles Noves building and the headquarters of the Ateneu Agrícola.

Then comes the time for venturing into some of the myriad wineries in the town. Among the most popular is Cava Codorniu, which dates back to 1872. Apart from its cava, one of its standout features is the building itself, designed by the Modernist architect, Puig i Cadafalch. A curiosity you will discover on a visit to this winery are its 26 kilometres of underground cellars. The other great winery, of international fame, is Cava Freixenet, which first opened in 1861. The building, in Noucentista style with Modernist touches, is one of the leading works of the architect, Josep Ros Ros.

The following list features all the wineries and cavas making up the DO Penedès, showing their location and contact details, to help you plan a trip through the region and visit your favourites.

Make a point of striking a trail through the DO Penedès in search of its main cavas and wineries – book your Vueling to Barcelona here.

Text by Los Viajes de ISABELYLUIS

Images by Angela Llop, MARIA ROSA FERRE

 

 

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A tour through the history of Nuremberg

By Oriol Salvador

Nuremberg is one of those cities that allows you to organise an interesting tour through history without leaving town and no need for a time machine. A city that was bombed in 1945 and rebuilt shortly afterwards, its leading role throughout medieval, modern and contemporary history has left it with many historical attractions.

It was the capital of the German Empire between the 11th and 14th Centuries, a key centre during the German Renaissance and the main setting for the Thirty Years War (1632). Thanks to its importance during the imperial époque, Hitler made it the headquarters of the Nazi Party Congress and it was also in Nuremberg where various Nazi war criminals were tried and sentenced in Court Room 600 in the Palace of Justice .

Its history has left the city with many interesting monuments to be visited and Bavarian artists, such as Albercht Dürer have given Nuremberg an artistic heritage not to be missed. This tour offers a route through the city so you can find out all about in just one day.

Nuremberg Palace of Justice (Justizpalast)

Our tour of Nuremberg starts at this seat of judicial power, which today remains fully operational. It was here that the Nuremberg Trials took place that lasted almost one year and where the sentences handed out to some of the heads of the Nazi regime became a landmark in the history of international law.

The Court Room 600, the scene of these historic trials, is still used as a courtroom today and at the weekends, when it is not in use, offers guided tours. As an alternative, if you find the room closed, you can visit the “Memorium Nuremberg Trials” exhibition which can be found in the East Wing of the building.

German National Museum (Germanische Nationalmuseum)

Although this involves a large chunk of time and patience, as you have to queue up to get in, the visit to the German National Museum is well worth it as it is possible to see one of the greatest collections of modern German art to be found in Nuremberg, Germany and the world, all under one roof. Until 2 September, you can see “The Early Dürer”, a retrospective exhibition of the early works of German artist Albercht Dürer, a son of Nuremberg and the greatest exponent of the 16th Century German Renaissance.

On your way in or after your visit, opposite the museum entrance, is the Street of Human Rights , 29 commemorative columns that bear the 30 articles of the Universal Declaration of Human Rights . One curious thing, there are 29 columns and 30 articles (in 30 different languages) because the last column, in Spanish, had to be taken away because it was blocking the exit for the fire station. They said they’d replace it but…

Marriage Carousel (Ehekarussell)

Going into the city centre, at the foot of the Weißer Turm (White Tower), you will find a fountain that is not suitable for the recently married: the Marriage Carousel was sculpted in 1984 by Jürgen Weber. Its figures were inspired by the poem “Bittersweet Married Life” by Hans Sachs. The sculptures depict falling in love at the beginning, the routine of living together and ends up with… well, you’ll see for yourself.

Church of St. Lawrence (Lorenzkirche)

The Church of St. Lawrence, built in the 13th Century, is an example of the Hallenkirche (hall churches), the typical German Gothic churches, with three aisles of the same height. Most of it was rebuilt following the Second World War bombardments and among its curious details that catch your attention are the nets that protect the statues in the portico so that birds can’t make their nests there or the Braille information panel we came across at the entrance.

Hospital of the Holy Spirit (Heilig-Geist-Spital)

This is one of the most well-known postcards of the city of Nuremberg, photographed from the bridge opposite. On the banks of the River Pegnitz, the building was constructed between 1332 and 1339. Having fulfilled its duties as a hospital, it is currently a municipal home for the elderly.

Market Square (Hauptmarkt)

Another of the must-see spots you simply must not miss on any tour of Nuremberg, is dominated by the Church of Our Lady (Frauenkirche) built in 1358 by order of Emperor Charles IV. Its famous marketplace (particularly well-known for its Christmas Market but also offers a fresh produce and traditional food market during the rest of the year). Here you will find the Beautiful Fountain (Schöner Brunnen) that dates back to the 14th Century . The square is encircled by innumerable souvenir shops and the city tour bus stop is located right beside the historic fountain.

Bratwursthäusle

At this stage in the tour, we suggest a rest and something to fuel the stomach chance by sampling some traditional German food. Opposite the old Town Hall we found the Bratwursthäusle restaurant, where we could try the traditional German bratwurst accompanied by the equally emblematic pretzel. So sit down on the terrace and guten appetit!

Albercht Dürer’s House (Albercht Dürer Haus)

Fed and watered and after a short rest, you will be ready to walk to the highest area of the city. Before you leave the city walls, we recommend a visit to the house-museum that used to be the home of Albercht Dürer that includes in its exhibition, a chance to see the process carried out by Dürer when creating his famous etchings . Interestingly, in the square opposite the house, we discovered a curious sculpture reminiscent of one of the most well-known works by Dürer, the hare.

Imperial Castle of Nuremberg (Kaiserburg)

When you pass through the walls, you might be surprised to see gardens and orchards in the moat. The city hall rented the space out to the citizens of Nuremberg who use it as an urban vegetable patch or garden… Following the wall along for a few metres, we reach the Imperial Castle of Nuremberg from which point you can see the entire city (see the panoramic view at the start of this article). It was the residence of the German emperors from 1050 to 1571 and as well having preserved some of its original living quarters that are open to visitors, many other parts of the castle are still inhabited today.

Zeppelin Field (Zeppelinfeld)

To conclude this tour, we leave the city centre and to do this, if you haven’t done so already, we recommend you use the city’s public transport, specifically, the No. 36 bus route. You have to take this bus from the stop that is fairly near the castle then get off at the last stop on the line, that will leave you right opposite the Documentation Centre , inaugurated in 2000, the former Nazi Party Congress.

The original project for this building was to construct a half section of an amphitheatre in the style of the Roman Coliseum , with a conference auditorium in its centre. Now the building houses an interesting and modern information centre that can be visited, with a permanent exhibition documenting the history of the precinct and the ruthless abuse of power by the Nazi regime.

From there, you have to border the lake to reach the Zeppelinfeld itself: an enormous grandstand inspired by the Pergamon Altar from which Hitler directed the parades and Nazi Party congresses. Today, the area is very run-down and the city of Nuremberg only uses it for a >rock music festival held at the start of June (reminiscent of the 1970s) and a car race that takes place during the first week of July. Strange, isn’t it? Even so, you should pay a visit even if it is only to say “I’ve been there” before you go back into the city. Talking of the return, close to the Zeppelin Field there are two stops for the local train (S2) which will drop you off at Nuremberg’s central station.

Useful information

As regards transport, other than the cases we’ve mentioned, the rest of the tour can be done on foot. However, our advice is to pick up the Nürberg Cardfrom any of the city’s Tourist Offices that, for 21 €, gives you two-day access to all the museums and public transport. Children under 12 can get their card free of charge.

Another option to think about for getting around the city is NorisBike, a public bicycle hire service available to both residents of and visitors to Nuremberg. You can find more information about this service (in German) at aquí.

We’ll be there. If you want to come too, check out our flights here.

 

 

 

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